FineGardening INTHESHADE

THE BEST OF FINE GARDENING MAGAZINE
gardening
IN THE SHADE
plants that don’t
189 need sun to shine
Outstanding shrubs
for low-light spots
Plans for continuous
color in all four seasons
Deer-proof options
for every space
Let’s
grow beautifully
together
Monrovia plants are grown with exceptional care.
Be inspired to create a tranquil and serene space with plants
that will thrive in your garden.
Grace N’ Grit™ Pink Shrub Rose

CONTENTS
| Fine Gardening special issue |
PERFECT PLANTS
20 Shining in the shade

These exciting variegated options will make you glad
you don’t have more sun
by Andy Brand
26 Eight great shrubs for shade

When full sun isn’t an option, use these hardworking plants
to add color, fragrance, and year-round structure
by Andrew Bunting
32 Epimediums: What your shade garden is missing

Whether you need a star that shines or have a gap to fill,
these nine beauties fit the bill
by Joann Vieira
40 Surprising plants for shade

If your idea of something interesting is a variegated hosta,
these options may change your thinking
by Edward Lyon
46 Conifers for shade

Who knew there were any? And who knew they could be this cool?
by Christine Froehlich
DESIGN IDEAS
56 A deer-proof design for shade

Thoughtful plant partnerships and hardscaping make the most
of tricky conditions
by Susan Calhoun
64 Continuous color in the shade

This inspiring plan starts with a framework of reliable performers
by Mary Gore
72 Make your shade really shine

The secret is using three key colors to pump up the interest
in low-light spots
by Inta Krombolz
80 You’re going to love your shade

Transform any dim spot into the highlight of your garden
with these bright ideas
by Scott Endres
86 Out-of-the-ordinary containers for shade

Try these unique textures and colors for pots that really shine
by Sarah Partyka
92 Dry shade done simply

Streamlining your plant palette and layering your design
can transform an area of extreme root competition
by Susan Calhoun
ON THE COVER
See the story on p. 72. Photo by Danielle Sherry
92
64
DEPARTMENTS
100
6 Editor’s letter
10 Design tips
12 Super cool plants

‘Diana Clare’ pulmonaria
Illuminati Tower™ mock orange
Henry’s anise
Legend of the Fall® fothergilla
‘Parrot Paradise’ ajuga
Red stem Solomon’s seal
100 Regional picks 20

Bold plants for shade
NORTHWEST
SOUTHWEST
SOUTHERN PLAINS
NORTHERN PLAINS
MIDWEST
SOUTH
NORTHEAST
107 Pronunciation
guide
110 Zone map
111 Captivating 101

combination
EDITOR’S LETTER
Shade: Is it a blessing or a curse?

YOU NEVER KNOW what
you’ve got till it’s gone. That’s
how it was for me and shade.
My previous garden, the one
I left over 15 years ago, was
mostly shady. And I loathed
the location. Why hadn’t I
done a better job of scouting
out the property before agree-
ing to move there? After all,
shade is a gardener’s worst
nightmare, right?
Wrong.
Over the years I’ve come to realize that shade is a blessing,
not a curse. My shade garden relied on texture more than
abundant blooms, and it was better for it. In case you hadn’t
guessed, I now garden primarily in full sun, and it is taxing.
Sure, I can plant things like dahlias and hibiscus, but with
plants like that it’s all about the blooms, which are fleeting.
I long for the days when I had a garden of nuance—one that
was mostly a tapestry of lush green and glowing chartreuse,
with the occasional splash of white foliage. Shade gardens
are soothing and calm, whereas sun gardens are loud and
boisterous, in my humble opinion.
In my current location I have a very small area of garden
that is in full shade, and it’s my favorite spot. There’s not
much room for expansion, so you can imagine how difficult
it was to work on this special issue filled with great shade-
plant recommendations and design ideas for low-light land-
scapes. I want to own every plant you see here (my favorite
being Frosted Jade ajuga, p. 22), and I want my entire garden
to look exactly like the one designed by Susan Calhoun
that you’ll see in “Dry Shade Done Simply” (pp. 92–99).
If the collection of articles in this issue doesn’t inspire you
to embrace and enhance your shady garden, I will happily
trade properties. See my contact info below.
—Danielle Sherry Executive Editor

dsherry@taunton.com
56
6 GARDENING IN THE SHADE

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FINEGARDENING.COM 9
Design Tips
| EXPERT ADVICE ON GARDENING |
Knowing what kind of shade you have

is the first step to success
BY STEVE AITKEN
NOT ALL KINDS OF SHADE ARE CREATED EQUAL. If you categorize anything
less than full sun as just “shade,” you may find yourself struggling to establish your
plants. But if you understand the differences in the kinds of light your garden plants
are allowed, your shade plants will thank you.
TIP 1 | Let your plants guide you

If a plant candidate is only listed as needing “shade,” do a little research to see what
kind of shade it likes. Plants themselves can tell you if they need more or less light.
Look for burned foliage, underwhelming growth and flowering, or a plant leaning
toward the light. Move your plants accordingly, and remember that gardening involves
plenty of trial and error. Identifying the particular kinds of shade in your garden will
help you achieve more success for your efforts.
TIP 2 | Be aware of trees

Trees are the usual cause of shade, but their wide variety of growth habits yield many
different types of shade. For instance, a tree with a dense canopy may block out
virtually all direct light (full shade). Trees with an open habit that lets spots of sun
shine through and tall trees whose branches do not begin until high up on the trunk
create another kind of shade (dappled shade). These differences in light can mean
the difference between a plant that struggles and one that thrives.
TIP 3 | Pay attention to time of day

Spend a day noting how and when shade comes and goes in your garden. You can take
detailed notes of hourly developments or, for a general sense of what is happening,
keep a mental record of where the sun is at 9:00 a.m., 12:00 p.m., and 3:00 p.m.
It is also important to understand the differences between morning, midday, and
afternoon sunlight. Afternoon sun is stronger than morning sun but isn’t as intense as
midday sun. Variegated or yellow-leaved plants, for example, are two types of plants
that can be affected negatively by sunlight that is too strong. Other plants, such as
astilbes (Astilbe spp. and cvs., Zones 4–8), may grow better in afternoon light than
in morning light.
Steve Aitken is a former editor.

What kind of light do your plants get?
#/)+$ | SHADE KEY |
M = Morning sun/afternoon shade
A = Afternoon sun/morning shade
*($%%$ #%($$
SUN SUN
M
A
&(*"
SHADE
A
M
M
A
Illustration: FG staff
FULL
DAPPLED SHADE
SHADE
M FULL SUN
FULL
SHADE
DEGREES OF SHADE $*$)*/%)+$"*

N+""), also known as deep shade, generally falls N+"")+$means at least six hours of direct sun per day,
under the canopy of a tree or under the eaves of a building. falling between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m., when the sun is stronger
The sky is largely blocked, and plants get only indirect light. than it is in the early morning or late afternoon.
Few garden plants tolerate full shade.
N#%($$)+$ is the weakest kind of sunlight because
N&(*") means full sun for part of the day and the sun is low on the horizon and light is filtered through more
shade for part of the day. Timing alters the effects of partial atmosphere before it reaches the earth.
shade. If the sun comes in the middle of the day—when sun-
light is most intense—plants that prefer shade may struggle. N#/)+$ is the most intense light.
N&&"), also called filtered shade, is a mix of N*($%%$)+$ isn’t as strong as midday sun, but it has
sun and shade that occurs when sunlight passes between the potential to burn the foliage of shade-loving plants because
leaves or through an arbor or overhead lattice. Many plants it comes at a time when the atmosphere has been heating up
that like full sun or full shade will also grow in dappled shade. all day, creating another source of stress for plants.
FINEGARDENING.COM 11
Super Cool Plants
| FIND OUT WHAT THE EXPERTS ARE GROWING |
This pulmonaria is a shady star not

bothered by deer, disease, or heat
About 15 years ago, I had given up on growing pul-
monarias (Pulmonaria spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8) in
my Zone 7 garden. In 2005, I received a 2-inch pot
of pulmonaria in the mail from the Garden Writers
Association. I thought about tossing it but decided
to give the little thing a chance, and so I planted
it. The following year I could not believe my eyes.
Not only had it lived, but it also had quadrupled in
size and was covered with beautiful flowers. I dug
around it, found the label, and became fast friends
Photo this page: millettephotomedia.com. Photo facing page: courtesy of Proven Winners Color Choice. Illustration this page: Elara Tanguy.
with ‘Diana Clare’. I began to read up on pulmonar-
ias and found out that ‘Diana Clare’ is a hybrid of
P. longifolia (Zones 3–8). This species and its hybrids
are both more heat tolerant and more resistant to
powdery mildew than the cultivars more commonly
sold at the time. I soon began seeking out P. longifo-
lia cultivars and hybrids.
‘Diana Clare’ begins its yearly show in late winter
and early spring with short stalks of dark violet
flowers that age to cobalt blue. The flowers are
followed by long, beautiful, deer-resistant strappy
leaves that emerge with a spotted border and then
age to pure silver. This plant makes a sizable clump
and performs best when divided about every four or
‘Diana Clare’ pulmonaria five years in fall.
(Pulmonaria ‘Diana Clare’) In the South, pulmonarias perform best in dappled
ZONES: 3–8 shade or with a few hours of morning sun, although
CONDITIONS:Partial shade; average 10 deep shade can encourage powdery mildew. They
to moist, well-drained soil inches are fairly drought tolerant but prefer organic, rich,
tall
NATIVE RANGE: Garden origin moist, well-drained soil. Most of them grow best in
Zones 3–7, but ‘Diana Clare’ will thrive even on the
edge of Zone 8. Pulmonarias look good in groups or
18 inches wide
massed as a ground cover in a woodland or shade
garden, and they make an effective edging plant.
Both the botanical name and the sometimes-used
common name “lungwort” come from a belief among
medieval herbalists that suggested the outward
appearance of a plant determined its herbal virtues.
Because pulmonaria’s spotted leaves resemble a dis-
eased lung, the plant was thought to be a cure for
lung ailments. Thank goodness for modern medicine!
Jason Reeves is curator of the University of Tennessee Gardens

in Jackson.

Illuminati Tower™ mock orange
Philadelphus coronarius ‘SMNPVG’
GOTTA ZONES: 4–7
HAVE IT!
SIZE:4 feet tall and 2 feet wide
CONDITIONS: Partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
NATIVE RANGE: Southern Europe
A new twist on a fragrant classic

To truly merit a place in the garden, a plant should be out-
standing in at least two of the three golden attributes: color,
form, and texture. For years, mock orange has had only
one—its plethora of sparkling white flowers in spring. Yes,
they are deliciously fragrant, but that starry show passes and
you are left with a nondescript blob of green foliage. This
classic shrub may now deserve a second look, thanks to the
outstanding form of Illuminati Tower™. Gone is the rangy
habit of squidlike arms common to mock orange, which have
been replaced with a narrow, columnar habit—giving this
woody a towerlike effect. This might just be the fragrant focal
point you never knew your landscape was missing.
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SUPER COOL PLANTS continued from page 13
Up to
15 feet
tall
Up to 10 feet wide
Henry’s anise
(Illicium henryi)
ZONES: 6–9
CONDITIONS:Partial shade;
moist, well-drained acidic soil
NATIVE RANGE: Central and
western China
Photos this page: courtesy of Stephanie Cosby (top); courtesy of RareFind Nursery (bottom). Photo facing page: courtesy of Proven Winners
Try this replacement for rhodies
I was first introduced to the elegant Henry’s anise by a
local nurseryman, who insisted I propagate it when he
decided to close up shop. Thankfully, I decided to accept
his challenge. As I’ve watched this plant grow over the
years, I’ve been continually impressed with its grace and
tenacity, even placing it on my ever-changing but very
exclusive top ten list. In fact, it’s one of a small handful of
plants that I look at each and every day of the year.
Native to the deep forests and swampy lowlands of
central and western China, Henry’s anise is an adapt-
able, naturally pyramidal evergreen shrub/small tree. The
bronze-red new growth, salmon-pink late spring flowers,
and pseudowhorls of blue-green leaves offer year-round appeal in my partially shaded woodland.
Color Choice. Illustration this page: Grace McEnaney.
Of the Illicium species I grow, Henry’s anise is hands down the toughest and most refined, taking
summer drought and winter cold in stride. It never adopts the thirsty, bedraggled appearance of its
better-known relative, purple anise (I. floridanum, Zones 7–9) when the weather gets hot and dry.
Instead, Henry’s anise stoically endures until autumn rains begin to fall. To grow it to perfection, apply
an annual top dressing of compost, and keep it well mulched and watered throughout the growing
season. I can’t think of any plants it wouldn’t harmonize nicely with, which speaks to its versatility.
Pruned intensively or left to grow naturally, Henry’s anise is sure to lend charm to your garden.
Chris Cosby is senior manager of gardens at the Memphis Botanic Garden in Tennessee.

Legend of the Fall® fothergilla
Fothergilla × intermedia ‘Alice’
ZONES: 5–8
GOTTA SIZE:4 to 5 feet tall and wide
HAVE IT!
NATIVE RANGE: Southeastern United States
The perfect shrub for the

fall transition
Gardeners have argued for years about whether
fothergilla should be known as a spectacular
spring shrub or as an overlooked beauty for
fall. Although we say that it is both, the new
Legend of the Fall® may swing things to the
autumn side. This variety was bred specifically
to have exceptional fall color. As the weather
begins to cool, the small oval leaves take on
hues of yellow, orange, red, and even deep
purple. Eventually all the foliage turns dark
burgundy before dropping from the shrub
completely. Once spring hits the next year,
expect the same bright green leaves and fra-
grant white bottlebrush blossoms you have
come to love with other fothergilla.
ENJOY THE TRANQUIL

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SUPER COOL PLANTS continued from page 15
A ground cover with color all year long

At the mention of ground covers, most gardeners immediately
think of periwinkle (Vinca minor*, Zones 4–8), Japanese pachy-
sandra (Pachysandra procumbens, Zones 5–9), or lilyturf (Liriope
muscari and cvs., Zones 5–9). Ajuga (Ajuga reptans and cvs.,
Zones 3–9) is generally not one of the contenders. Most gar-
deners I know either love it or hate it. The small, spoon-shaped
leaves can spread vigorously by stems that creep barely above
or just below the ground, forming a dense mat. It seems that
gardeners who love it kill it with kindness, while those who
ignore it have it gallop through their property unchecked.
Believe it or not, there are over 40 species of ajuga, but only
a few are generally sold in nurseries. Since the advent of culti-
vars such as ‘Metallica Crispa’, which has shiny bronze foliage,
and ‘Black Scallop’, which has rounded, near-black leaves and
Photo this page: courtesy of Chris Hansen. Photo facing page: courtesy of Plant Delights Nursery. Illustration this page: Elara Tanguy.
more-violet flowers, ajuga has grown in popularity. It still is not
one of the top ground covers, however.
Ajuga grows best in moist, shady spaces, but it likes some
sun to give it additional color. (Full sun may scorch the older
cultivars, however.) In spring and early summer it is covered
in lovely, small, upright, bright blue flowers. Then it goes back
to being just about the foliage. In many climates it stays semi-
evergreen to evergreen. Another factor in its favor is that it is
not hard to dig out and move around. I have done this several
‘Parrot Paradise’ ajuga
Ajuga ‘Parrot Paradise’ times with fairly regular success.
ZONES: 4–8 Chris Hansen, who is known for his innovative series of hens
CONDITIONS:Full sun to partial 8 to and chicks (Sempervivum spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8) called Chick
shade; average soil 12 Charms®, has now turned to ajuga to give us a whole range of
NATIVE RANGE: Hybrid inches
tall colors and sizes culled from this ground cover staple. Within
the Feathered Friends™ series, you’ll find some ajugas with
8 to 12 inches wide large leaves and some with small leaves, but all of them come
in a range of colors. The one I like most is ‘Parrot Paradise’. It
grows in shade to light sun. Throughout early to late spring
*See invasive alert on it produces upright cobalt blue flowers that are super showy
page 109.
because the leaves are an exciting mix of yellow, orange, and
red—all on one plant. After flowering, the older leaves turn to
chartreuse and yellow. Winter foliage tends to be orange and
stays semi-evergreen or evergreen depending on the climate.
After fall cleanup you can still have lasting color in the garden.
Imagine a ground cover that can give you year-round color!
‘Parrot Paradise’ also thrives in full sun with no burn on the
foliage. That is a big advantage.
With all these attributes, I hope ajuga can now join the list
of gardeners’ favorite ground covers.
Stephanie Cohen has spent most of her life trialing, speaking about, and
teaching all things plants. The author of several books, she lectures extensively
around North America.

GOTTA
HAVE IT!
Red stem Solomon’s seal

Polygonatum odoratum var. pluriflorum ‘Jinguji’
ZONES: 4–9
SIZE:20 inches tall and 24 inches wide
CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; moist, well-drained soil
NATIVE RANGE: Japan
Check out the legs on this shady character

Sometimes the boss sends an email that you choose to ignore. And
then there are the times that the boss sends an email and it’s impos-
sible to ignore—because there’s a photo of this plant attached. Red
stem Solomon’s seal has long been treasured by shade gardeners
in England. It is rarer to see in nurseries in North America, which is
a darn shame given just how spectacular it is. This plant sports the
same graceful arching stems of the Solomon’s seal you know and
love, and it has the same fragrant, pendulous white bell flowers too.
Where it differs is in the dark red hue of the stems. Whereas those
naturally occurring bare legs (due to the vaselike habit) could have
been seen as a drawback to the plant in the past, here they are the
main event. This is most certainly something exciting and new from
a plant that never disappoints.
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PERFECT
PLANTS
18 FINE GARDENING | DATE 20XX

20
Shining in the
shade
26
Eight great shrubs
for shade
32
Epimediums:
What your
shade garden
is missing
40
Surprising plants
for shade
46
Conifers for
shade
40
Photo:
‘Snow
Cap’
broadleaf
sedge
Shining in the
SHADEThese exciting variegated options
will make you glad you don’t have more sun
Photo:

BY ANDY BRAND
hroughout my horticultural life, I have gardened almost exclusively in the shade. While the cool,
T shady areas have provided me with the opportunity to grow some of my favorite genera, they also
have presented me with a fair share of challenges. One of the trickiest issues is figuring out how
to brighten the border growing under a dense canopy or in dark corners. Plants with showy flowers are
an obvious solution, but usually their effect is transient, and all too often flowering is diminished with too
much shade. An even better option is to incorporate plants with variegated foliage and let their leaves of
white, cream, gold, and green bring light to the shade. Here are some of my favorites that illustrate how
variegation can create drama and texture in the shade.
A better option for heat

and humidity
‘Sea Heart’ brunnera
Brunnera macrophylla ‘Sea Heart’
ZONES: 4–8
SIZE: 10 to 15 inches tall and 12 to
24 inches wide
CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; moist,
well-drained soil
NATIVE RANGE: Eastern Mediterranean,
Turkey to Caucasus
‘Sea Heart’ is quickly becoming one of the
most popular new cultivars of Brunnera, and
rightfully so. The large, heart-shaped leaves are
covered richly in a shimmering silver overlay
that is intricately dissected with a network of
green veins. Airy sprays of sky-blue flowers
dance above the sea of silver in April and May.
The foliage has proved to be very durable,
tolerating heat and humidity better than other
selections. As with other brunneras, the fuzzy,
tough leaves of ‘Sea Heart’ tend to be left
alone by Bambi and friends.
Grow this hellebore for its foliage

‘Janet Starnes’ Corsican hellebore
Helleborus argutifolius ‘Janet Starnes’
ZONES: 6–9
SIZE: 18 to 24 inches tall and wide
NATIVE RANGE: Corsica
Unlike most hellebores that are grown for their magnificent late winter–early spring blossoms, ‘Janet Starnes’
is grown for its outstanding foliage. The leathery, evergreen, trifoliate leaves are heavily speckled with white,
giving the plants an overall shimmering, silvery appearance. Emerging foliage is often highlighted with pink
overtones, adding even more interest. A multitude of Granny Smith–green flowers open above the foliage in
late winter and early spring. Removal of old stems in early spring will allow the emerging foliage to put on an
amazing show. ‘Janet Starnes’ is best reserved for regions with mild winters and sites with excellent drainage.
An ajuga that
is beautiful and
that behaves
Frosted Jade ajuga
Ajuga incisa ‘Bikun’
ZONES: 6–8
SIZE: 12 to 18 inches tall
and wide
CONDITIONS: Partial shade;
moist, well-drained soil
NATIVE RANGE: Japan
Frosted Jade ajuga is clump

forming. Yes, you read that
correctly. Unlike the familiar
carpet ajuga (Ajuga reptans,
Zones 3–9) and its many color-
ful cultivars grown for their
ground-covering, matlike
habit, ‘Bikun’ forms mounds
of creamy margined, jade green,
toothed leaves. ‘Bikun’ really
toots its horn in spring, produc-
ing dramatic, deep cobalt blue
flowers. These intensely saturated flowers stand in stark contrast to the
sparkling foliage. Experiencing this gem will give you chills!
I have been impressed with how

well this sedge, with so little green,
has performed under dry-shade
conditions once it has settled in.
It doesn’t get much brighter than this

‘Snow Cap’ broadleaf sedge
Carex siderosticha ‘Snow Cap’
ZONES: 4–8
SIZES: 6 to 10 inches tall and 12 to 15 inches wide
but will tolerate dry shade
NATIVE RANGE: Japan, China, Korea
This sedge puts the “b” in bright! Each blade has such a thin
green margin that from a distance the clumps appear entirely
white. This feature is very useful in adding contrast to dark
foliage or brightening the edge of a border. While moist soil is
ideal, I have been impressed with how well ‘Snow Cap’, with
so little green, has performed under dry-shade conditions
once it has settled in. After winter loosens its frosty grip, a
fresh haircut is needed to remove old foliage, which allows
the new growth to shine once again.

Photos: Nancy J. Ondra (p. 20, top); millettephotomedia.com (p. 20, bottom; p. 22, bottom; p. 23, top); Bill Johnson (p. 21); Joshua McCullough (p. 22, top); Stephanie Fagan (p. 23, bottom).
A sizable, deer-resistant option As its common name suggests, this Japanese import grows
more like a tidy, rounded shrub than an herbaceous perennial.
‘October Moon’ Japanese shrub mint Semi-woody stems support elliptically shaped green leaves
Leucosceptrum stellipilum ‘October Moon’ (which the deer ignore) edged with vibrant chartreuse. It
ZONES: 5–8 will absolutely glow in a shady corner. While autumn’s chilly
SIZE: 2 to 3 feet tall and wide temperatures encourage most perennials to begin preparing
CONDITIONS: Partial shade; adaptable to many soil types for winter, ‘October Moon’ lights up the woodland garden
NATIVE RANGE: Japan with terminal wands of pink flowers. In spite of its woody
tendencies, cut back dormant clumps to the ground.
| TIP |
ORIGINAL
FOLIAGE
WATCH OUT FOR REVERSIONS
Variegation is often caused by a mutation, which in some cases can be unstable.
This instability can result in variegated plants producing leaves or branches
that no longer show the desired pattern and instead are much greener or, more
often, entirely green. This can be frustrating and needs to be addressed. Green
leaves or shoots contain more chlorophyll and typically grow more vigorously
than the variegated plant; if left unchecked, they have the potential to take
over the plant completely. Luckily, reversions are easy to spot, and they should REVERTED
be removed as soon as they become apparent. FOLIAGE
Tough, beautiful, and native
‘Silver Run’ drooping laurel
Leucothoe fontanesiana ‘Silver Run’
ZONES: 4–9
SIZES: 24 to 36 inches tall and 36 to
42 inches wide
CONDITIONS: Partial shade; acidic, moist,
well-drained soil
NATIVE RANGE: Southeastern United States
This hardy evergreen is part of the heath family (Eri-

caceae), whose members include rhododendrons and
blueberries. It features gracefully arching stems clothed
in thick, leathery leaves that emerge splashed and
streaked in an intricate pattern of green, cream, and
pink, eventually maturing to cream and green. ‘Silver
Run’ has demonstrated better resistance to the foliar
diseases that often plague other selections. In May,
racemes of white, urn-shaped flowers decorate the
colorful mounds. To grow drooping laurels and other
broadleaf evergreens successfully, it’s all about location,
location, location. By choosing a site that is protected
from desiccating winds but still has good air circulation,
you will be rewarded with year-round color.
A unique plant to make you glad

you have shade
‘Kikko’ shredded umbrella plant
Syneilesis palmata ‘Kikko’
ZONES: 4–8
SIZES: 12 to 18 inches tall and
slowly spreading
CONDITIONS: Partial shade; moist,
well-drained soil
NATIVE RANGE: Japan
When I first saw this plant for sale online, I

clicked “Add to cart” immediately. Not only
was it hardy and easily grown in shade, but its
foliage was variegated beyond anything I had
ever seen before. Even before the variegation
shines, unusual new shoots push through the
soil covered with soft “fur” resembling Cousin
Itt from The Addams Family. As the palmate,
umbrella-like leaves unfurl, they reveal an
elaborate network of showy yellow veins. The
pattern is most pronounced in spring, but
The pattern is most pronounced in spring, exposure to a few hours of morning sun each
but exposure to a few hours of morning sun each day day can help maintain its intensity. ‘Kikko’ is
a truly special shade plant and always highly
can help maintain its intensity. sought after.

An attractive clumper worthy of a closer look
‘Ki-no-tsukasa’ Japanese fairy bells
Disporum smilacinum ‘Ki-no-tsukasa’
ZONES: 4–8
SIZES: 8 to 12 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide
NATIVE RANGE: Japan
Don’t be deceived by the delicate appearance of this little woodland

specialist; it’s a real performer. Despite its diminutive size, this easy-
to-grow fairy bells will make you bend down and take notice. The
leaf tips appear as if an artist carefully brushed them with bright
yellow paint. Dainty, white, star-shaped flowers sparkle among the
foliage in spring. Unlike its cousin D. sessile (Zones 4–8) and its cul-
tivars, which move about the garden with abandon, ‘Ki-no-tsukasa’
is clump forming, playing nicely with larger, bold-leaved neighbors.
Don’t be deceived by the

delicate appearance of this little woodland
Photos: Adam R. Wheeler/Broken Arrow Nursery (p. 24, top; p. 25, bottom); Andrew Brand (p. 24, bottom); courtesy of Far Reaches Farm (p. 25, top)
specialist; it’s a real performer.
Elegance and exuberance

in one package
‘Angel Wing’ Solomon’s seal
Polygonatum odoratum ‘Angel Wing’
ZONES: 4–9
SIZE: 15 to 18 inches tall with a spreading habit
NATIVE RANGE: Europe and Asia
Over the years, variegated Solomon’s seal (P. odoratum

‘Variegatum’, Zones 3–8) has been a staple in woodland
gardens. It’s an easy-to-grow, trouble-free, deciduous
ground cover with attractive variegated foliage. ‘Angel
Wing’ exhibits all of these same qualities but takes the
variegation to a whole new level, exhibiting superwide,
bold, white leaf margins that are absolutely elegant.
Sweetly fragrant flowers dangle from the leaf axils in
spring. This perennial is essentially maintenance free,
slowly spreading via rhizomes into long-lived, elegant
colonies. While it isn’t a plant they go to first, deer will
eat Solomon’s seal. It’s best not to plant it next to some-
thing they favor, such as hostas.
Andy Brand is the director of horticulture at the Coastal Maine

Botanical Gardens in Boothbay.
‘Lipstick’ redvein
enkianthus

8 GREAT SHRUBS
for SHADE
When full sun isn’t an option, use these
hardworking plants to add color, fragrance,
and year-round structure
BY ANDREW BUNTING
I
f you take a dim view of the shady spots in your
garden, it may be because you haven’t found
the right plants to make those areas shine. A few
well-chosen shrubs can transform a shadowy area
into a showcase, and there are more choices avail-
able than you might imagine. On the following
pages are some of my favorite shade-loving shrubs.
Whether you are looking for a shrub with beautiful
blooms, fascinating foliage, or architectural appeal,
there should be something here to suit your needs.
‘Lipstick’ redvein enkianthus, one of my favorite
plants for shade, is unequaled for its brilliant red
fall color. It has an upright habit, reaching 6 feet
tall at maturity. In early spring its naked stems are
covered in pendant clusters of elegant, white, bell-
shaped flowers suffused with streaks of burgundy
red. Because of its narrow habit, it is perfect for a
small space such as a courtyard.
‘Harvest Moon’ witch hazel (p. 28) is an exciting
selection of the common witch hazel (Hamamelis
virginiana, Zones 3–8) found throughout eastern
North America. In contrast to most witch hazels,
6 to
10 feet which bloom in early spring, it is an autumn bloomer.
tall
In late fall its leaves drop to reveal spidery flowers
with narrow straplike petals that are a soft butter
yellow. In its native habitat, it grows as a large under-
4 to 6 feet wide
story shrub up to 20 feet tall with an equal spread.
NAME: Enkianthus Over the years, I had seen Japanese orixa relegated
campanulatus ‘Lipstick’
to purely arboreta plantings. Then on an autumn
ZONES: 6–8
visit to Chanticleer, a public garden outside of
CONDITIONS: Full sun to
Philadelphia, I saw ‘Pearl Frost’ orixa (p. 28) with
partial shade; moderately
moist, well-drained soil its fantastic ghostly white leaves and was newly
NATIVE RANGE: Wood- impressed by its ornamental appeal. This shrub
lands of Japan is actually a member of the citrus family and has
15 to
20 feet
tall
15 to 20 feet wide
‘Harvest Moon’ witch hazel

shines in late autumn
NAME: Hamamelis virginiana
‘Harvest Moon’
ZONES: 3–8
CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial
shade; moderately moist,
well-drained soil
NATIVE RANGE: Eastern
North America
proven to be very deer resistant in the garden. The

glossy, oval leaves are dark green in the center, with
a creamy white variegated edge. At the Chicago
Botanic Garden we used them in a mass planting to
lighten up a dark spot.
‘Golden Guinea’ Japanese kerria is a great old-
fashioned shrub that is grown for its green winter
stems and vibrant golden yellow flowers that open
before the foliage emerges in spring. It thrives
in fairly deep shade as well as partial shade. This
clone was selected for having the largest flowers
compared to other cultivars. The habit is upright
and somewhat vase-shaped and can reach 9 feet in
height with an equal spread.
‘Kiyosumi’ Japanese mountain hydrangea
(p. 30) is one of the many exquisite selections of
Hydrangea serrata. This group is more diminu-
tive and more refined than the large lacecap and
mophead cultivars (H. macrophylla cvs., Zones
5–11). These hydrangeas also bloom more reliably
than the mopheads, which suffer stem dieback and ‘Pearl Frost’ orixa is a hardy
rarely flower in Zones 5 and lower. Reaching only citrus relative with stunning
4 feet tall, ‘Kiyosumi’ is perfect for a small or urban variegation
garden. It will tolerate considerable shade, but it NAME: Orixa japonica ‘Pearl Frost’
6 to
flowers best in partial shade. Its summer blooms are ZONES: 5–9
8 feet
adorned with pinwheel-like sterile florets with a CONDITIONS: Full sun to full shade; tall
rose pink picotee edge. average to moist, well-drained soil
Of the many wonderful native azaleas from the NATIVE RANGE: Japan, Korea
Appalachian Mountains, one of my favorites is 6 to 8 feet wide

4 to
9 feet
tall
4 to 9 feet wide
‘Golden Guinea’
Japanese kerria is
tough yet graceful
NAME: Kerria japonica
‘Golden Guinea’
ZONES: 5–9
CONDITIONS: Full to partial
shade; moderately moist,
well-drained soil
NATIVE RANGE: Mountains
Photos, except where noted: millettephotomedia.com. Photo p. 26: courtesy of Leonard Foltz/Dancing Oaks Nursery. Illustrations: Elara Tanguy.
of China and Japan
| TIP |
Planting under trees

Planting shrubs under established trees, especially those trees with a
seemingly impenetrable root system, can be a real challenge to say the
least. Here are a few tips to help you get it done.
1. Site shrubs away from the trunk, since tree roots are likely to be
densest near the base of the tree. 1 2
2. Start with a smaller plant. A shrub sold in a 1- or 2-gallon pot will

be easier to establish than a larger one if there is significant root
competition. Because it needs a smaller hole, planting will be less
invasive to the tree roots.
3. Keep an eye on watering while the shrubs get established. The tree
is likely taking up a lot of the available moisture, so considerable
supplementary water may be necessary.
4. Conserve moisture by mulching newly planted shrubs. 3
4
4 feet
tall
4 feet wide
‘Kiyosumi’ Japanese mountain

hydrangea blooms reliably
on new wood
NAME: Hydrangea serrata
‘Kiyosumi’
ZONES: 4–8
shade; moist to average, well-
drained soil
NATIVE RANGE: Japan
plum-leaf azalea. This deciduous azalea is upright
Photo this page, bottom: Bill Johnson. Photo facing page, top: courtesy of JC Raulston Arboretum at North Carolina State University.
and narrow in its habit and reaches 8 to 12 feet
tall at maturity. Most other native azaleas bloom in
spring, but plum-leaf azalea is summer flowering,
with clusters of tubular flowers of fire-engine red
that face upward. It grows in full shade but flow-
ers best in partial shade. The flowers attract ruby-
throated hummingbirds.
‘Sterling Silver’ golden spike-tail will lighten a
shady nook with its variegated leaves and stunning
early season flowers. This medium-size shrub has
a vase-shaped habit and long, arching branches. It
thrives best in dappled shade. In late summer it
sets narrow, pendant clusters of flower buds that
open in late winter to early spring, depending on
the zone, to reveal dangling clusters of yellow, urn-
shaped flowers. Its broad leaves with narrow, taper-
ing tips are strikingly variegated: pewter blue edged
in white.
‘Harold Epstein’ dwarf fothergilla is named for
a late, famed plantsman from the Northeast. This
coveted diminutive selection is the perfect plant
Plant plum-leaf azalea for for an intimate corner or even a rock garden. In
blazing midsummer color late April to early May, before the leaves emerge, it
NAME: Rhododendron prunifolium is covered in squat, white, bottlebrush flowers. In
ZONES: 5–9 fall the rounded scalloped leaves turn to a stunning
8 to
CONDITIONS: Partial shade; moist, 12 feet myriad of orange, red, and yellow.
well-drained acidic soil tall
NATIVE RANGE: Southeastern
United States Andrew Bunting is vice president of public horticulture for the
6 to 8 feet wide
Pennsylvania Horticultural Society.

6 to
8 feet
tall
6 to 8 feet wide
‘Sterling Silver’ golden

spike-tail blooms when
we need color most
NAME: Stachyurus praecox
‘Sterling Silver’
ZONES: 6–9
CONDITIONS: Full to partial
shade; moist, well-drained soil
NATIVE RANGE: Japan
12
to 18
inches
tall
2 to 3 feet wide
‘Harold Epstein’ dwarf

fothergilla is a low grower
NAME: Fothergilla gardenii
‘Harold Epstein’
ZONES: 5–8
shade; moist, rich, well-drained soil
NATIVE RANGE: Southeastern
United States
EPIMEDIUMS
WHAT YOUR SHADE GARDEN
IS MISSING
Whether you need a star that shines or have a gap to fill,
these nine beauties fit the bill
BY JOANN VIEIRA
pimediums have the power to bring
E me to my knees in spring. I will gladly

muddy my jeans for a glimpse of their
slender stems rising through the leaf litter. I am
not the first to be captivated by these charis-
matic plants. They have been cultivated in Asia
for centuries, primarily for medicinal purposes,
but many old Japanese varieties were, and still
are, grown for their sheer beauty.
In the wild, epimediums (Epimedium spp. and
cvs.) are found in habitats ranging from mostly
sunny to deeply shaded, and in soils that range
from moist to dry. The lion’s share are found
on wooded hillsides, sometimes under shrubs,
or in the cracks and crevices of rocky slopes. In
recent decades, plant explorers have discovered
and named many new species, and have selected
and hybridized hundreds of new cultivars.
Amid this dizzying array of choices are a few
widely available cultivars that are valued as
ground covers for dry shade. Once established,
these beauties endure dry spells while their
neighbors wilt, with robust woody root systems
that keep weeds and invaders at bay.
Bet you can’t plant just one. With so many gorgeous

cultivars to choose from, you may find epimediums
to be habit forming. However, if you choose reliable
performers, your addiction can be a healthy one.
Photo:

Photo:
But epimediums have the potential to be so much more than
just bulletproof ground covers. Afforded the luxury of good gar-
den conditions, they can flourish as specimens, adding distinctive
colors, textures, and forms to the garden tapestry. With so many
wonderful cultivars to choose from, it’s hard to pick just a few
to highlight. But those profiled on these pages will give you a
sense of the wonderful variety available if (when) you catch the
collecting bug.
The killer foliage of ‘Ninja Stars’ grabs attention all season,
emerging mahogany and later deepening to glossy green. The
leaflets are shaped like elongated blades, with daring spiny
edges highlighted in a paler color. Its flowers hover on impos-
sibly slender stems, with clear yellow petals and pale, spinelike
spurs. A second spurt of leaves brings the mahogany hues back,
extending the colorful show. When grown in good conditions,
its rhizomes extend a satisfying 4 to 6 inches per year. Like
many Chinese selections, this one takes a stab at being ever-
green. It is a relatively new cultivar, introduced by epimedium
guru Darrell Probst in 2016.
’Waterfall’ is a robust plant with great presence throughout
Photos, except where noted: courtesy of Karen Perkins/Garden Vision Epimediums. Other photos: Carol Collins (pp. 32-33; p. 36, bottom right; p. 37).
the growing season. It forms a beautiful mass of leaves that
reach 20 inches tall in summer. As leaves emerge they are
Spiky foliage and stellar blooms tinged in bronze, with a glow of light green highlighting the
veins and the spot where each leaflet attaches to its petiole.
Epimedium ‘Ninja Stars’
The elegantly tapered leaflets are arranged in layers, flowing
ZONES: 5–9
SIZE: 12 to 15 inches tall and 3 feet wide

AT A GLANCE
Epimedium spp.
and cvs.
USDA HARDINESS
ZONES: 4–9
CONDITIONS:
Partial to full shade;
average to dry, well-
drained soil; ideally
neutral, moisture-
retentive soil high in
organic matter
NATIVE RANGE:
China, Japan,
Korea, parts of the
Mediterranean and
Vigorous, cascading habit
North Africa
E. grandiflorum ‘Waterfall’
ZONES: 4–8
SIZE: 12 to 20 inches tall and up to 30 inches wide
A diminutive beauty
E. ‘After Midnight’
ZONES: 5–9
SIZE: 12 to 15 inches tall
and wide
Plenty of rosy color
E. ‘Pretty in Pink’
ZONES: 4–8
SIZE: 10 to 12 inches
tall and 12 to
18 inches wide
Lightning-patterned leaves Long-lasting variegation

E. pinnatum subsp. colchicum ‘Thunderbolt’ E. sempervirens ‘Variegated #1’
ZONES: 5–8 ZONES: 5–9
SIZE: 10 inches tall and up to 36 inches wide SIZE: 8 inches tall and 12 inches wide

BASICS
WHAT
EPIMEDIUMS NEED
These plants are pretty easy
to maintain once established.
A few simple tips will increase
your chance of success.
PLANT IN SPRING OR
EARLY FALL. In colder climates,
follow the usual precautions for
fall planting: Water well until the
ground freezes, and consider
using a loose mulch of pine
boughs or a similar material
to reduce repeated freezing
and thawing.
GIVE THEM GOOD SOIL.

Choose a planting site with
humus-rich soil that is neither
soggy nor so well drained that
it is drought prone. Modify the
soil to achieve a pH between
6.2 and 6.5.
Delicate looks,
one over the other like a waterfall of foliage. If the foliage hardy constitution
creates the waterfall, then the flowers create the froth that E. brevicornu GET THE LIGHT RIGHT.
gathers along edges and eddies, breaking the surface and add- ZONES: 4–8 A spot with less than five hours
ing visual contrast. This froth of flowers is held on upright and SIZE: 1 to 2 feet tall of direct sun will favor more
slightly arching stems that extend out from the foliage mass. and wide flowers than deeply shaded
locations. Avoid direct sun in
The large flowers are rosy colored with showy elongated spurs
the South, where foliage is
that fade from lavender to white. likely to scorch.
Starting out with a burst of chocolate, the leaflets of ’After
Midnight’ (photo p. 35) soon become green at the center,
START THEM OFF ON THE
crisply trimmed in bronze. These make a stunning backdrop
RIGHT FOOT. When planting,
for the flowers, which, though only 6 to 8 inches tall, draw you loosen up the roots and spread
in from across the garden. You’ll know your obsession with them out in the planting hole
epimediums is full blown when you find yourself nose to nose before backfilling. Water well
with these blooms, marveling at how the cherry-rimmed outer immediately after planting to
bring soil into contact with
sepals align closely with the color of the flowering stalks. The
roots and to exclude air pock-
sepals will soon fall away, leaving a flurry of sparkling white
ets. In spring, retain as much
flowers that contrast cleverly with the dark leaflet edges. This is foliage as you can to help get
a lovely plant to place in a pocket of rich soil in the crevice of the plants off to a good start.
a boulder, or along a shaded walk where you can appreciate its
small stature and beautiful details.
DON’T FERTILIZE THE
‘Pretty in Pink’ is as charming as the name implies. Demure FIRST YEAR. It’s generally not
bicolored flowers dangle like jewels over muted coppery needed if you are planting in
foliage, which is softly mottled with flecks of burgundy. The the right spot. Use compost
outer sepals are a soft, clean pink; the inner petals are a deeper and organic fertilizers thereafter
as needed.
raspberry; and the long, thin, pendant spurs fade to white at
Spellbinding floral display
E. grandiflorum ‘Circe’
ZONES: 4–8
SIZE: 12 inches tall and 18 inches wide

the tips. Introduced by Plant Delights Nursery in 2012, it is a
strong grower with E. grandiflorum heritage. When the flowers
fade, a second flush of foliage with pink hues prances above
the rest. Eventually even this showy flush settles into a glossy
green for the summer and holds up into early winter.
‘Thunderbolt’ (photo p. 36) is hard to beat for the durable,
glossy, rounded foliage that transitions to an exciting chocolate- Petal-like
sepals
red when the cold weather sets in. This gorgeous color deepens
in sun and holds up remarkably well into the winter months,
giving it evergreen status even in southern New England. Each
Outer
leaflet is packed with bright green veins in a lightning-like sepals
pattern—hence the ‘Thunderbolt’ name. This selection lives
up to the reputation of epimediums as great ground covers by
True
advancing 6 to 8 inches a year. Clear yellow sepals surround petals
smaller petals and short spurs that are tipped in burgundy,
giving the center of the flower a little burst of color.
It is worth seeking out ‘Variegated #1’ (photo p. 36) for the
artsy blend of white, cream, pink, and salmon that dapple its
emerging leaflets in spring. This colorful display coordinates
well with the white flowers that arrive in midspring. Eventually
the leaves settle into a lovely white-and-green combination that
endures well into summer, and since this is a semi-evergreen
type, its foliage will remain in good shape into early winter.
Legend has it that Darrell Probst paid his highest price ever
to secure this clone on a 1997 collecting trip.
Epimedium brevicornu (photo p. 37) sends delicate black
A CLOSER LOOK
wands adrift above speckled foliage that reaches 8 to 10 inches
tall. The stems seem to have a tenuous hold on the fluttering
white flowers, with each stem bearing as many as 25 to 50
flowers. White spurs are swept back, revealing a yellow center
Anatomy of an
and yellow pollen-producing stamens. The overall effect is one epimedium f lower
of great charm and delicacy—even the leaves seem delicate and Look closely at an epimedium flower
and you will notice that its floral parts
papery thin. This species is from northern China, which lends it
occur in fours: four outer sepals that
a dose of hardiness; it can survive to at least Zone 4. are often quite small and that drop
Ever the enchantress, ’Circe’ weaves her spell with large and away when the flowers open; four
abundant deep pink flowers, with spurs beautifully tipped in larger, petal-like sepals; and four true
petals held at the center that often
white, that are held above coppery-tinged leaflets in late April contrast in color with the sepals. These
and early May. Leaflets are edged in delicate spines and form true petals bear nectar-producing
a tidy mass about a foot tall. The leaves switch to olive green in spurs that are small in some species
and cultivars, and bolder and showier
summer and do not persist through winter. As with all epime- in others. Individual flowers range
diums, the lowest flowers in the raceme open first, with newer from a quarter-inch across to 2 inches
flowers opening as the stalk matures. In the case of ‘Circe’, the from tip to tip.
outer sepals, which drop away as the flower opens, are deep
purple-black and are borne on reddish-bronze pedicels. This is
a treat to behold in late spring, when every detail brings you to
your knees.
Joann Vieira is the director of horticulture at The Trustees of Reservations,

a nonprofit conservation organization based in Boston.
SURPRISING
PLANTS
FOR SHADE
If your idea of something interesting is a variegated hosta,
these options may change your thinking
BY EDWARD LYON
I
recently designed my third shade garden on as many properties. As my fascination with shade
plants grows, I continually look for more variety beyond the plants commonly available in local
nurseries. Don’t get me wrong—I don’t dismiss or ignore the ordinary. The foundation of all
my gardens is built on established tried-and-true plants. They are considered “common” because,
over time, they’ve proven themselves in durability and reliability. My beds all start with a structure
built on these old reliables, but then I sprinkle in novel and exotic options that excite my inner,
unabashed plant geek. The following are plants you might not be familiar with but that I’ve found
are perfect for adding something out of the ordinary to your shady spots.

Exotic-looking stems
and flowers
‘Night Heron’ fairy bells
(Disporum longistylum
‘Night Heron’ )
ZONES: 5–9
SIZE: 30 inches tall and 12 to

18 inches wide
CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade;
rich, moist, well-drained soil
NATIVE RANGE: China
Fairy bells are the lesser-known

and underutilized cousins to Solo-
mon’s seal (Polygonatum spp.
and cvs., Zones 3–8). I find most
have a more delicate and open-
branched structure that makes
them airier than their thicker-
stemmed, broader-foliaged rela-
tives. Downward-turning, yellow
or white, bell-shaped flowers
earned them their common name.
‘Night Heron’ is one of the tall-
est forms; its arching, bamboo-
like dark stems are adorned with
narrow leaves that emerge dark
purple in spring and turn green
with summer’s warmth. Purple
spring foliage and stems reminis-
cent of the dark plumage colors
of the black-crowned night heron
allegedly inspired the name of this
cultivar. Racemes of small, bell-
shaped white flowers tinged in
green emerge from the leaf axils
in spring and develop into purple-
black berries in late summer.
Photo:
Photos: courtesy of Edward Lyon (p. 40; p. 43, top; p. 44, bottom); millettephotomedia.com (p. 41; p. 44, top; p. 45, right); Doreen Wynja (p. 42, left); courtesy of Plants Delights Nursery (p. 42, right; p. 43,
Unusual leaves but even
more-unusual flowers
‘Shell Shocked’ panda wild ginger
(Asarum maximum ‘Shell Shocked’)
ZONES: 7–9
SIZE: 5 inches tall and 18 inches wide
CONDITIONS: Partial shade; fertile, moist,
bottom); Joshua McCullough (p. 45, left). Illustration: courtesy of the USDA Agricultural Research Service.
well-drained soil
NATIVE RANGE: Eastern Asia and China
One definition of plant geek might be “a person

who looks beyond the incredible foliage of peren-
nial gingers and starts selecting new ones based
on their alien-looking, odd flowers you must lie
on the ground to see.” A definition of an optimist
could be my purchasing a Zone 7 ginger and
planting it in my Zone 5 garden. And a definition
of ecstasy is my joy over ‘Shell Shocked’ surviving
two winters in Wisconsin.
Gingers excel in the foliage department, and this
one is no exception. Tony Avent of Plant Delights
Nursery may have described ‘Shell Shocked’ best
when he said this plant that flaunts dark, glossy,
pewter-green leaves displays an “embossed
Beautiful summer flowers paired with awesome fall color tortoiseshell vein pattern.” It has been golden
hued for me in spring. With their black-and-white
Bowman’s root (Porteranthus trifoliatus syn. Gillenia trifoliata) fuzzy appearance, the flowers demonstrate why
ZONES: 4–8 the plant is called panda wild ginger. The blooms
SIZE: 2 to 4 feet tall and 18 to 36 inches wide are enormous, outward facing, and much more
CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade, well-drained soil obvious than on most gingers. I am waiting with
NATIVE RANGE: Eastern United States and Canada bated breath to see if ‘Shell Shocked’ graces me
with a third season. For those of you lucky enough
It is amazing that this native has not garnered more attention. To me, it’s a perennial
to live in Zone 7 or warmer, embrace it.
that wants to mimic a shrub when mature. I adore its wiry red stems massed with
delicate, star-shaped white flowers. They flutter and float so delicately that they look
like tiny butterflies. The white blooms sparkle in lightly shaded areas where dark-
flowered plants otherwise fade into the background. As lovely as bowman’s root is
during late spring and early summer when flowering, it also dresses up for fall. I value
the olive-green leaflets changing to red in autumn paired with the dark stalks still
holding red calyxes from the spring flowers. The texture is fine enough and scaled
appropriately to make a lovely foil against bold-foliaged giant hostas.

A sleeper at the | GOOD TO KNOW |
season’s start but a
thriller in the end Looking for
Blue cohosh (Caulophyllum uncommon
thalictroides)
ZONES: 3–8
shade plants?
SIZE: 1 to 2 feet tall and Try the natives
1 foot wide section
CONDITIONS: Partial to full
shade; rich, moist, neutral to One of the most common
slightly acidic soil complaints I hear when
NATIVE RANGE: Eastern North it comes to shade plants
America is that folks don’t know
Blue cohosh’s lack of showi- where to find less com-
ness may deter some folks, mon selections. My advice
but I have come to appreciate is to start with woodland
this native for its subtleties. natives, for two reasons:
The glaucous blue-green
foliage resembles meadow 1. These plants have
rue (Thalictrum spp. and cvs., adapted to the cultural
Zones 4–8); it is coarser but conditions of the region
still a fine texture to contrast and generally establish
the bold foliage of hostas, more successfully with
mayapples (Podophyllum spp. less fuss and failure.
and cvs., Zones 3–9), or even ferns. The small brown to yellow-green flowers are not distinctive, but they lead
to gorgeous green changing to purple-blue, fruitlike seeds. The leaf margins often turn a burnished bronze for 2. Many native shade
fall interest, and the foliage remains fresh through frost. Native aficionados should not be without it, but it will plants can be found
grace any ornamental shade garden with value as well. easily at plant specialty
nurseries or in the
native plants section of
general nurseries, but
Increased variegation there are many mail-
makes it eye-catching order nurseries that
‘Double Stuff’ Solomon’s seal ship high-quality plants,
(Polygonatum odoratum ‘Double Stuff’) bareroot plants, seed,
ZONES: 3–9
bulbs, and corms. You’ll
find many oddities that
CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; fertile,
may not have enough
moist, well-drained soil, tolerates drier sales appeal to propa-
soil once established
gate in large quantities
NATIVE RANGE: China, Korea, Japan, Europe
for the mass market
One of the true heroes of the shade gar- (especially if they are
den is variegated fragrant Solomon’s seal difficult or slow), but an
(P. odoratum ‘Variegata’, Zones 3–8). This online nursery will carry
colonizer is robust, and I have seen it grow a few pots of them.
successfully and laugh in the face of some
tough sites. In fact, it is probably present at
every plant-division sale because it is overly
successful in good garden soil. In recent
years, we have seen new selections and
forms of several species of Solomon’s seal,
many sporting wider bands of white. ‘Dou-
ble Stuff’ is one of the more resplendent.
It is slower growing than ‘Variegata’ due to
reduced chlorophyll but is roughly the same
height, with lovely red stems that augment
tan fall foliage (especially if backlit by late
season sun). It also has those same fragrant
flowers. The eye-popping variegation is truly
‘Variegata’ on steroids.
Oddly alluring flowers with great texture
False hydrangea (Deinanthe bifida)
ZONES: 4–7
SIZE: 2 feet tall and wide
CONDITIONS: Partial shade; fertile, moist soil
NATIVE RANGE: Japan
Take a busload of Midwestern gardeners to the East Coast, set them loose in
gardens where savvy plant enthusiasts have embraced false hydrangea, and listen
for shrieks of delight. That is how I first encountered this plant, which showed up
in a number of gardens on several of my Eastern tours. Even though I love and use
large, coarse-textured plants for essential contrast in my designs, I suspect I might
have walked by this shrub wannabe had it not been for the unique flowers. They
do resemble hydrangea florets, but they have a waxiness reminiscent of my grand-
mother’s hoya houseplant. Round balls wrapped in soft pink open to bright white
flowers that appear to hover gracefully with accents of baby blue and light pink to
blue-violet. They’re truly enchanting.
TIP
Staying within zonal ranges doesn’t guarantee success
Just as all shady areas are not the same, neither are all zones. Each zone has a wide range of
geographical, environmental, and cultural conditions that can differ dramatically. Your property’s
unique microclimates and disturbances will also play a role in whether a plant is truly hardy to its
site. Start with your zone when selecting plants, but be sure to meet their conditional requirements
for the best success.

Calling its leaves huge is an understatement Ivy is out, so try this deep-shade
Many-flowered Chinese mayapple (Podophyllum pleianthum) ground cover instead
ZONES: 5–8
Green-and-gold (Chrysogonum virginianum)
SIZE: 2 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide
ZONES: 5–9
CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; fertile, moist, well-drained soil
SIZE: 6 to 12 inches tall and 8 to 18 inches wide
NATIVE RANGE: China
CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; rich, acidic, moist,
As children, my siblings and I were fascinated by the waves of common may- well-drained soil
apple (P. peltatum, Zones 3–8) that colonized dry hillsides of our upstate New NATIVE RANGE: Eastern United States
York farm. It was an oddity in our minds; hundreds of umbrellas marching
across the landscape hiding green, hard fruits seemingly misnomers, since my Diminutive isn’t a bad thing, even in the dark. Although
dad called them apples. As a gardener, I ignored the plant for years as common- green-and-gold isn’t large, few plants flower with such strik-
place. It took the novelty of the Asian introductions to renew my interest in ingly bright color in deep shade. This native can do that
this woodland stalwart. One of the Asian varieties that fired this appreciation is because it blooms before deciduous trees have fully leafed
perhaps the largest-leaved mayapple I have seen in U.S. gardens. The Chinese out. The spectacle occurs during the gray days of spring
mayapple doesn’t beg for attention—it commands it with enormous glossy, when bright gold, daisylike flowers covering the garden floor
dark green leaves over 1 foot across on 2-foot-tall stems. It resists the dor- are most welcome. The plants continue to bloom lightly
mancy our native mayapple falls into when under all but extremely hot, dry throughout the season unless they succumb to high summer
summers and so provides drama year-round. The clusters of spring flowers are heat; even then they will lightly rebloom in autumn. Once
red rather than white and more numerous than the native form, but it is the established, green-and-gold creates a soft carpet—without
spectacle of the foliage that makes this plant a diva. spreading aggressively—in areas of deep shade where it is
hard to establish anything.
Edward Lyon is the director of the Reiman Gardens in Ames, Iowa.
CONIFERS
FOR SHADE
Who knew there were any?
And who knew they could
be this cool?
BY CHRISTINE FROEHLICH
S
everal years ago, my husband and I
moved from Connecticut to the shores
of Lake Ontario. I brought along a few
truckloads of my favorite perennials and hap-
pily plunked them into the backyard, creating
an instant garden that I could see from our
living-room window. I didn’t think about
winter, and when it hit, I wasn’t happy.
It snowed endlessly that year, and the white
fence enclosing my new garden stared back at
me accusingly, begging for a better solution.
Because going south for the winter wasn’t part
of the plan, I decided to invest in some coni-
fers to jazz up the view. But spring brought
some problems I hadn’t considered. The site
had more shade and many more tree roots
than I had originally thought.
As luck would have it, living nearby was
conifer expert Gerald Kral, whose garden is
a case study in which conifers can survive in
the shade. Dwarf conifers tend to be shade
tolerant because they push their new growth
earlier in the spring (before the deciduous
trees really leaf out) and need less photosyn-
thesis to stay happy. Additionally, I discovered
‘Snow’ false
cypress

Emerald Spreader™
Japanese yew
Zones 4–7
Evergreens make
excellent neighbors.
For year-round good
looks that complement
almost everything, try
shade-tolerant conifers.
MOUNDING FORMS
Variegated elkhorn cedar

Zones 5–7
that any variegated conifers will burn out in the

afternoon sun, and they appreciate shady conditions
to keep their striking colors brilliant. Surprisingly,
even a couple of reported sun lovers perform bet-
ter in some degree of shade. Here are some conifers
that have proven to be standouts in the shade.
Mounding forms fill in gaps

Conifers with a mounding habit usually have a
fluffy texture, adding softness to the garden. These
shrubs can have a loose branching structure or a
creeping growth pattern, but either way, they fill
in the middle ground between taller trees and
the ground layer. Not all medium-size, mounding
conifers grow in the shade, but some do.
Don’t confuse Emerald Spreader™ Japanese yew
(Taxus cuspidata ‘Monloo’; photo p. 47) with those
overgrown blobs flanking foundations across the
country. This prostrate grower is far handsomer than
those yews commonly used for hedging. Its small,
dense, dark green needles and low, spreading habit
set Emerald Spreader™ apart. It can be used as a bil-
lowy ground cover (quickly reaching its maximum
size of 3 feet tall and 9 feet wide), and it helps add
depth, texture, and contrast to the garden floor.
Emerald Spreader™ does not like root competition,
so it usually does best when planted in dense shade
under trees with deep root systems, like tulip poplars
(Liriodendron tulipifera, Zones 4–9). Deer like to
graze most yews, so take the proper precautions.

‘Snow’ false cypress
Zones 4–8
MOUNDING FORMS
I sometimes find mounded shapes difficult to work
with because of their loose habit, but the bold pres-
ence of variegated elkhorn cedar (Thujopsis dola-
‘Gentsch brata ‘Nana Variegata’; photo p. 48) lends itself to
White’ hemlock
a variety of uses. It makes an impressive focal point
Zones 4–8
and looks equally good integrated with other low-
growing conifers and perennials. Its moderate size
(6 feet tall and 4 feet wide, growing 3 to 4 inches
per year) is nothing special, but the bright green-
and-white foliage is strong yet delicate. Deer will
nibble on its bright white tips, so offer it some sort
of protection. Partial shade and moist, well-drained
soil are best.
If you want a conifer that is subtle but has an
arresting presence, ‘Snow’ false cypress (Chamae-
cyparis pisifera ‘Snow’; photo p. 49) is worth trying.
This shrub is slow growing, putting on only a few
inches per year and eventually reaching only 6 feet
tall and wide. The best attribute of ‘Snow’ is its
loosely rounded shape accented by delicate gray-
green foliage that is lightly frosted with white. The
fuzzy appearance of this conifer will make you
want to hug it. For the best variegation, keep it in
partial shade and well-drained soil. One word of
caution: Deer love all Chamaecyparis, so be sure
to protect this beauty.
Hemlocks perform especially well in shade, but only
certain varieties are immune to the woolly adelgid,
a tree-killing bug. I love ‘Gentsch White’ hemlock
(Tsuga canadensis ‘Gentsch White’) because the new
growth is white in the shade, giving it a frosted look,
and because it stays pest-free. ‘Gentsch White’ pro-
| DESIGN TIP |
Balance size and

accentuate colors
Be sure to plant shade-loving conifers that will
stay within the scale of the existing trees on your
site. If you have smaller, deciduous shade trees,
don’t plant a conifer that is going to tower over
its buddies. Accent the foliage of your conifers
by planting them with perennials that have con-
trasting or complementary hues.

UPRIGHT FORMS
BEFORE
‘Joe Kozey’ Japanese
umbrella pine
Zones 5–9
AFTER
| CULTURE TIP |
Photos, except where noted: Danielle Sherry. Other photos: courtesy of Forestfarm (p. 48, inset); Jerry Pavia (p. 50, top). Illustrations: Madartist/dreamstime.com.
Let the light

shine through
If you want to let a
bit more sun into your
shady nook, try raising
the leaf canopy by prun-
ing your deciduous trees
up to 25 feet off the
ground. Although it’s a
big project, you’ll widen
the array of conifers you
can plant by allowing
more filtered sunlight to
shine through.
UPRIGHT FORMS
‘Silberlocke’ Korean fir

Zones 5–8
vides a stark contrast to dark greens, and it lights up cal lines of these trees are eye-catching, so if you
any shady corner. Its small, 4-foot-tall by 4-foot-wide need a focal point, this is the group for you.
stature allows it to fit under taller trees or shrubs. One of these pyramidal options is ‘Joe Kozey’
Expect it to put on 1 to 3 inches of growth each Japanese umbrella pine (Sciadopitys verticillata ‘Joe
year. As with most shade-loving conifers, hemlocks Kozey’, photo p. 51). It has rubberlike needles and
prefer a little morning sun and well-drained soil. an intense yellow color in the shade. It grows mod-
erately, putting on only 4 to 6 inches of new growth
Upright habits catch the eye each year. Reaching just 6 feet tall and a mere 3 feet
When many of us think of conifers, we think of wide at maturity, it can fit into any-size garden.
towering trees. This can be the case, but there are a Deer tend to avoid this tree when other options are
number of great shade-loving choices that have an available. For the best success, site ‘Joe Kozey’ in
upright habit without getting 50 feet tall. The verti- moist but well-drained soil and partial shade.

Like ‘Joe Kozey’, ‘Silberlocke’
Korean fir (Abies koreana ‘Silber-
locke’) has a compact, vertical
habit that makes it good for
small gardens. It can eventually
get 20 feet tall and wide but
is fairly slow growing, adding
only 6 inches a year. The silvery
backside of its needles gives it
an icy appearance that lights up
the shade. ‘Silberlocke’ is another
good option for those with deer
problems because deer usually
steer clear of it. It prefers some
morning sun and mostly after-
noon shade. To keep it happy, be Dragon’s eye pine
sure your soil is well drained. Zones 4–7
Dragon’s eye pine (Pinus
densiflora ‘Oculus-draconis’) is a
conversation piece like no other.
The dark green eye that emerges
from the center of the variegated
yellow-and-green needles illuminates the garden
and provides exceptional contrast. Dragon’s eye
pine can reach 15 to 20 feet tall and wide, growing
only 4 to 6 inches a year, if given ideal conditions
(filtered shade and moist, well-drained soil). This
tree is best when pruned to give it a lower profile,
making the dark green eye more visible as you walk
by. And although deer might munch on them occa-
sionally, pines are generally not the first item on the
deer buffet menu.
I have long admired many of the gold-variegated
false cypresses, but I don’t have room to grow
them. Thankfully, golden dwarf hinoki cypress
(Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Nana Lutea’) is a slower-
growing (putting on about 1 inch of new growth a
year), shorter variety. Over time, it will only get 3 to
5 feet tall and wide. The delicate, golden-tipped
foliage and twisted branches stand out handsomely,
especially in winter. As with ‘Snow’ false cypress,
this tree belongs to a genus that the deer love to eat. Golden dwarf
I’ve found that once you start planting conifers, it’s hinoki cypress
hard to stop. There seems to be no end to the exciting Zones 4–8
color and texture interests they provide. And while
winters here haven’t improved much, the view from
my window into the back garden certainly has.
Christine Froehlich is the former executive director of the

Rochester Civic Garden Center in Rochester, New York.
72
DESIGN
IDEAS

40
56
A deer-proof
design for
shade
64
Continuous color
in the shade
72
Make your shade
really shine
80
You’re going to love
your shade
86
Out-of-
the-ordinary
containers
for shade
92
Dry shade done
simply
56
Photo:
A DEER-PROOF
DESIGN FOR
SHADE
Thoughtful plant partnerships and hardscaping
make the most of tricky conditions
BY SUSAN CALHOUN
T
here aren’t many properties left that still
have massive, native evergreen trees. Some-
times, however, you find a home built among
the giants. These homes capture the essence of
the forest in a calm, unobtrusive way. And that is
what I found when I first arrived at this property
in Bainbridge Island, Washington. It’s a modern
house perched on a coastal bluff and surrounded
by Douglas firs and western red cedars (Thuja
plicata, Zones 5–7) that are over one hundred
years old. This location is gorgeous, but it is not
without its challenges. With all those massive trees
come the problems of dry shade, with extreme root
competition and compaction. Add a family of deer
that calls this place home, and designing a beauti-
ful yet functional landscape becomes a great deal
more challenging.
Hardscaping provides transitional structure and

creates moisture pockets
The first issue I addressed when designing this
space was the lack of moisture, which all plants
need to survive. I focused on creating planting
pockets in the areas that transition to walkways
by making stone ledges and walls that I then filled
with soil. The loose soil, which is replete with
organic matter, nurtures spilling ground covers
continued on page 61
Did someone say no sun but plenty of deer?

This wooded property created a gardening challenge.
But with the creation of hospitable planting pockets,
a detailed plan to foil the deer, and a mosaic pig,
a lush landscape emerged. (A on site plan)
Photo:

Photo:
| THE PLAN |
C.
B.
House
E.
A. D.
D.
A map for proper placement

The site plan for this garden was especially
important in figuring out where plant group-
ings would be placed in relationship to each
other, the house, and the massive trees on
the property.
A. Mosaic pig
B. Driveway beds with red/yellow sculpture
C. Wooded understory entry gardens
D. Deep shade understory beds
E. Sheltered area for plants that need protec-
tion from wind and deer

Two conditions
require two planting
approaches. Alpine
water fern enjoys a
more hospitable plant-
ing pocket along the
stone path. Areas
behind the edging
plants call for tougher
selections such as
‘Windcliff Fragrant’
pachysandra and
‘Aureola’ Japanese
forest grass that can
take root competition
and propagate them-
selves if some don't
survive. (D on site plan)
Think foliage over flowers. Colorful blooms aren’t

common in the shade, so be sure your plant choices have
interesting leaves, like this ‘Spring Cream’ leatherwood
(Eucryphia lucida ‘Spring Cream’, Zones 8–9).
Sheltered spots house special plants. Large rhodies

provide a windbreak for more-tender shade plants such as
daphne, Jack-in-the-pulpit, and ‘Axminster Gold’ comfrey
(Symphytum × uplandicum ‘Axminster Gold’, Zones 4–7).
(E on site plan)
8
3
2
1
7
Photo:

continued from page 56
| BEHIND THE SCENES | that might normally need more water than the
natural site can provide.
Breaking down the planting plan ‘White Nancy’ spotted deadnettle (Lamium macu-
latum ‘White Nancy’, Zones 3–8), alpine water fern
(Austroblechnum penna-marina, Zones 7–9), and
Understory trees and shrubs provide golden clubmoss (Selaginella kraussiana ‘Aurea’,
screening without blocking light. Zones 6–9) are just a few of my favorite plants for
The lovely, light green Japanese maples underneath a towering these newly created pockets. And as a bonus, they
Douglas fir provide filtered screening to the house without obscuring
are deer resistant (photo p. 58). These areas retain
it or blocking light into the upper windows. An unusual Kiwi Gem™
shrub panax provides a lush, tall, evergreen element. This shade plant the most water, since they are the farthest away
resents stiff winds or frost. The tall canopy of large trees gives it the from the tree bases. Throughout this garden, much
shelter that it needs to flourish. Together the Kiwi Gem™ shrub panax of the stonework isn’t there simply for looks; it cre-
and a ‘Purple Gem’ rhododendron block a utility area with a large,
unsightly propane tank. ates zones for more-hospitable growing.
Break the garden into condition-specific areas

to get plant placement just right
Blended hardscaping and spilling fillers The next step I took was to assess the remaining
soften the concrete entryway. area designated for the garden and make note of
Concrete in an entryway can be very harsh and unnatural. Using each spot’s specific conditions. This broke up the
ledgestone in colors similar to that of the concrete helps blend it landscape into a series of smaller chunks and helped
into the garden. ‘Lemon Daddy’ hydrangea springs up behind three-
me place the rest of the plants.
leaved stonecrop planted next to the ledgestone. A combination
of epimedium and more three-leaved stonecrop planted in the bed One such spot was behind the pockets of edging
opposite adds to the softening effect. These plants also hold the soil plants. This was a microclimate that called for plants
in place so it doesn’t spill into the pathway during wind or rainstorms. that could take less water and more root competi-
tion. These tough plants were planted in sweeps for
bigger scale and impact against the larger trees and
shrubs around them. If any plants in these groupings
don’t make it, ones nearby will seed into blank spots
Bright, contrasting colors delineate
the bed from the driveway. left behind. A mix of ‘Jack Frost’ brunnera (Brun-
A swath of ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass, three-leaved stonecrop, nera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’, Zones 3–8), evergreen
and epimedium defines the edge of the driveway. These plants ‘Windcliff Fragrant’ pachysandra (Pachysandra axil-
offer a bright spot of color in which to sit a spiraling red-and-yellow laris ‘Windcliff Fragrant’, Zones 6–9), and ‘Aureola’
sculpture. A large katsura tree towers above the scene. The interplay
Japanese forest grass combine for a hardworking
of fall color between the katsura and the ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest
grass is amazing! grouping I used repeatedly (photo p. 58). These
plants grow with abandon up to the limits of soil and
root compaction, creating broad stretches of texture
and color with seasonal interest. Deer do not favor
| KEY PLAYERS | these plants, so browsing and munching are minimal.
1. Three-leaved stonecrop (Sedum ternatum, Zones 4–8) I make texture over flowers my mantra. Plant choice
2. Japanese maples (Acer palmatum and cvs., Zones 5–8) is hugely important, and in shade where color is hard
3. Kiwi Gem™ shrub panax (Pseudopanax laetus, Zones 7–9) to come by, the texture should be more important
4. ‘Purple Gem’ rhododendron (Rhododendron ‘Purple Gem’, Zones 4–8) than the blooming ability of a plant.
5. Katsura (Cercidiphyllum japonicum, Zones 4–8) The garden’s entrance is another example of a small
6. Epimedium (Epimedium cv., Zones 3–8) area with a different set of conditions. ‘September
7. ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, Zones 5–9) Song’ rhododendron (Rhododendron ‘September
8. Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii, Zones 4–7) Song’, Zones 6–8) and ‘Yellow Petticoats’ rhododen-
9. ‘Lemon Daddy’ hydrangea (Hydrangea ‘Lemon Daddy’, Zones 6–9) dron (R. ‘Yellow Petticoats’, Zones 6–9), which both
thrive in partial to full shade, join ‘Cannon’s Dou-
This area is marked B on the site plan. ble’ azalea (R. ‘Cannon’s Double’, Zones 5–9) to
brighten up the garden in spring. Larger shrubs such
as these also provide a windbreak for other planting
Photo:
| TECHNIQUE |
How to condition dry, compacted soil

In extreme conditions such as these, it’s important to improve the soil as best you can. Here’s what I did in this particular
Photos, except where noted: doreenwynja.com. Photos this page, clockwise from top: gapphotos.com; courtesy of Kirsten Maskell; Heather Edwards/gapphotos.com; courtesy of Karen Beaty. Illustration p. 58: Elara Tanguy.
garden to enhance the environment where the plants eventually were located.
1. First, I used hardscape material to make short walls or to

elevate edges.* This enabled me to add my soil mix to the
freed-up space so that new plants could get established.
2. Then I dug into the first few inches of existing soil to create
space for roots to grow.
3. Next, I filled the area with a few inches of new, rich soil
mix. A custom blend that is approximately 40% composted
yard waste, 40% native soil, and 20% sand forms a free-
draining, nutrient-rich base.
4. Finally, I mixed in some composted fir bark and fish compost.
The final mixture is about 80% soil mix, 10% composted fir
bark, and 10% fish compost.
5. After planting, I mulched with 1 inch of composted fir bark.
In the year following, I'll mulch with 1 inch of fish compost.
*In areas where there were no walls to hold a good amount of new
soil in place, I amended the existing soil with the fish compost
and sometimes, depending on what we were planting, more com-
posted yard waste.
TAKE A DEEPER LOOK AT A FEW KEY INGREDIENTS
▴ ▴ ▴
COMPOSTED YARD WASTE COMPOSTED FIR BARK FISH COMPOST
It is important for this to be weed Soil in this area is already acidic Fish compost is from fish hatcher-
free. The yard waste must be com- due to the number of conifers on ies in our area and is weed free.
posted at a high temperature to kill site. Fir bark blended into this soil It aids in plant establishment by
any existing weed seeds. mix creates a transition between feeding the plants while they
the soil mix and the native soil, put roots down into the base
which has a lot of material from soil. We do not use any chemical
surrounding coniferous trees. The fertilizers while planting. If local
fir bark also needs to be compos- sourcing isn’t possible, you can
ted. Raw fir bark will break down purchase bagged fish compost
eventually, but to do that it will from reputable nurseries.
take nitrogen from the soil for the
decomposition process. This will
rob nitrogen from new plants that
need it to get established.

areas beyond. These sheltered, shady spots provide
the perfect growing conditions for the unusual and
more tender plants like Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema
triphyllum cv., Zones 4–9) and ‘Maejima’ variegated
winter daphne (Daphne odora ‘Maejima’, Zones 7–9;
photo p. 59).
Try two things to keep vulnerable treasures safe

There are always going to be plants that you want to
include in a challenging landscape but that don’t nec-
essarily thrive in the conditions you’re dealing with.
In this garden, there were several show-stoppers that
I thought would add exceptional texture or color, but
deer love to eat them. In fact, deer favorites made up
about 20% of the plants used in this design. I used
two methods to protect those plants: mass planting
and blocking. Hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp. and cvs.,
Zones 3–9) are beloved by gardeners and deer alike.
Instead of planting just one hydrangea, we planted
several of the same variety. Mass planting allows for
some browsing by the deer residents, leaving plenty
of plants untouched for a good flower show.
Other deer favorites, such as fuchsias (Fuchsia spp.
and cvs., Zones 6–11), are planted in several differ-
ent locations within the garden, again in multiples.
Large ferns such as alpine wood fern (Dryopteris
wallichiana, Zones 6–9) or warty barberry (Berberis
verruculosa, Zones 6–9) circle the fuchsias, helping
You can still plant deer food. Planting hydrangeas en masse permits
to block deer. These plants cover the lower branches
minimal browsing by deer while keeping some safe to flower (top). Using
that may be nibbled by deer. The taller stems are deer-resistant plants to block tasty treats such as fuchsia is another
allowed to dangle above the barrier plants, hopefully approach (bottom). (E on site plan)
out of reach of the deer. Gardeners who have deer in
their area know, however, that they may eat one type
of plant one year and not the next, may taste a new
plant and then choose to leave it alone later, or may
eat a plant labeled “deer resistant.” Mass planting
and blocking are two deer-deterring methods that
have worked here so far, but being able to adjust and
adapt plantings occasionally is sometimes necessary.
This garden is anything but dull, and within it is an
array of specialty plants. But given the challenging
conditions, there are still tough spots where it would
be hard to get any plant to survive. These are the per-
fect places for a piece of garden art—like a boulder
or this garden’s unique mosaic pig (photo p. 57). This
beautiful, serene garden is a reminder that a stunning
landscape is possible to achieve while respecting the
established trees and other occupants of the land.
Susan Calhoun is the owner of Plantswoman Design in

Bainbridge Island, Washington.
Lush, layered plantings
keep this Toronto garden
interesting all season long.
The gardener, who describes
her creative process as “paint-
ing with plants,” has found a
bounty of vibrant options to
brighten her living canvas.
Photo:

CONTINUOUS
COLOR
IN THE
SHADE
This inspiring plan starts with a
framework of reliable performers
BY MARY GORE
fter my husband and I moved into our
A home in 2004, I waited four years before

starting a garden. The idea of creating a
new design from scratch was daunting. What would
I do with all of this space and all of this shade?
I spent hours walking the site, watching how the
light changed throughout the day, and I studied
garden magazines and plant catalogs to figure out
what could thrive in dappled shade under a canopy
of mature oaks. When it was finally time to start
planting, my approach was very intuitive. Building
on a palette of a few favorite plants, I became part
of an evolving process. The plants teach me what
they can do, and I try my best to help them reach
Photo:
Building on a
palette of a
few favorite
plants,
I became part
of an evolving
process.
their full potential. I have grown to love the shade, and I can’t Imagine the scene when my daughter and I brought home
imagine what my garden would be like without it. The key has our first trees. We would choose a spot and take turns standing
been to find a palette of shade-loving plants with a long season there, arms up, pretending to be the tree in question, while the
of color and interest. other stood back to guess how the end result might look. This
Photos, except where noted: Paul Zammit
may not be the most efficient way to site trees, but we had a
Plant what you love, but be sure your favorites are sited right lot of fun doing it.
Japanese maples (cultivars of Acer palmatum, A. japonicum, We now have quite a few Japanese maples; I stopped count-
and A. shirasawanum, Zones 5–8) have always caught my eye. ing at 250. These trees serve as an always interesting middle
I love the array of colors they provide from spring through fall, layer between the lower-growing shrubs and herbaceous plants
as well as the gorgeous branch structures they reveal in winter. in our garden, and the magnificent oak trees that dominate
So, not knowing much about gardening, I started with a few the landscape. The red- and chartreuse-leaved varieties weave
of these small trees, which are adapted to grow in the bright, consistent color throughout the beds, drawing one’s attention
filtered light of the forest understory. like bold brushstrokes in a painting from the moment the foli-

Deep red and chartreuse create a repeating theme. When
viewed from a distance (below), the two colors thread through the
garden, tying beds together and making the space feel unified. Up
close (above), these hues play off each other, especially when there
is also bold textural contrast.
Filtered sunlight perfectly suits this plant palette. Hostas,

Japanese maples, and Japanese forest grass perform beautifully
in partial shade, and their reliable, season-long color creates an
eye-catching backdrop for an ever-changing floral show.
age unfurls in spring until the last of the colorful leaves drop maples, they act as unifying elements, adding splashes of color
in autumn. and tying distant beds to each other.
Japanese forest grasses (Hakonechloa macra and cvs., Zones
5–9) are also staples in my shady garden because of their great Diversify the plant portfolio to keep things colorful all season
texture and steadfast performance in partial shade. Once I My husband and I are accountants, so our gardening season
saw what these plants could do, I wondered how anyone with begins when the Canadian tax season ends. After April 30, the
shade could live without them. They have a cascading habit garden offers a welcome creative outlet, a place to experiment
that perfectly complements large-leaved shade perennials and with color and to try new ideas with no computers or num-
feathery ferns. Planted in masses, they add soft, flowing move- bers in sight. In summer, I spend every possible minute in the
ment in spots where most other grasses can’t be used. You will garden, adding plants, moving them until they are happy, and
find them throughout most of our garden, softening the edges cheering them on as they create a living artwork.
of beds, gracefully filling in between trees and shrubs, and trail- Adding annual and tropical plants to a framework of hardy
ing around the sides of our water features. Like the Japanese trees and perennials is one of my favorite ways to get creative
| PLANTS |
Picks for partial shade

Here are some of the signature plants that thrive in the moist, well-drained soil
and dappled sunlight of Mary’s garden.
Top photo this page: Paul Zammit. Plant photos this page, clockwise from top left: Carol Collins; Steve Aitken; Michelle Gervais; Kathryn Geruntho Frank; Michelle Gervais; Paul Zammit.
’High Noon’ tree peony ‘Miranda’ climbing hydrangea ‘June’ hosta
(Paeonia suffruticosa ‘High Noon’) (Hydrangea petiolaris ‘Miranda’) (Hosta ‘June’)
ZONES: 4–8 ZONES: 4–8 ZONES: 3–8
SIZE:4 to 5 feet tall and wide SIZE:Up to 60 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide SIZE:16 inches tall and 2 to 3 feet wide
NATIVE RANGE: China NATIVE RANGE: Japan, Korea, China NATIVE RANGE: Hybrid of Asian species
Golden yellow blooms with subtle red flares With dark green leaves edged in flashy gold, Lovely blue leaves with brushstrokes of
embellish a mass of medium-green foliage this plant adds an eye-catching vertical ele- chartreuse and yellow bring an artistic
that looks great even after the flowers finish. ment in partial to full shade. element to any shady bed.
Abyssinian banana Sedona Sunset™ coleus ’Aureola’ Japanese forest grass

(Ensete ventricosum) (Plectranthus scutellarioides cv.) (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’)
SIZE:8 to 10 feet tall and 6 to 8 feet wide SIZE:1 to 3 feet tall and wide SIZE:12 to 18 inches tall and wide
NATIVE RANGE: Eastern Africa NATIVE RANGE: Hybrid NATIVE RANGE: Central Japan
Also called red banana, this tropical delight The rusty orange color of this coleus is an Brilliant color makes this lovely grass stand
adds lots of drama and warm color wherever excellent accent for red-leaved Japanese out from a distance. Its yellow-striped leaves
it is planted. maples. Used as an annual, it provides bursts take on tints of pink and orange in autumn.
of reliable, long-lasting color at ground level.

Shirazz™Japanese maple
(Acer palmatum ‘Gwen’s
Rose Delight’)
ZONES: 5–8
SIZE:10 to 15 feet tall and wide
NATIVE RANGE: Japan, Korea, China
The leaves of this variegated

Japanese maple emerge crimson-
pink, then age to a charming mix
of pink, green, and white. Even
after its scarlet fall foliage drops,
its arching branches add elegance
to the winter garden.
Intense color is an annual affair. Tender tropical plants such as
bananas (above), coleus (left), and dahlias (below) add an element
of surprise when used to punctuate beds filled with hardy trees,
shrubs, and perennials.

and add pops of color in summer, when I’m in the garden the
most. I intentionally leave openings for tender annuals that
boast impressive floral displays or colorful foliage. These add
a lot of interest, even late in the season. I often start dahlias
(Dahlia spp. and cvs., Zones 8–12) in pots, allowing them to
size up in a sunnier, out-of-the-way spot before moving them
into the main garden. When perennials fade or spring bulbs go
dormant in a prime location, I can tuck in some big, gorgeous
dahlias to create new focal points.
Coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides cvs., Zones 11–12) grow
well in the shade and are perfect for providing a splash of color
in a high-visibility area. For maximum impact, I often leave
them in their pots, sometimes propping them up to give them
extra height so they can be seen among taller plants.
I also tuck in some dramatic tropical plants, like bananas
(Musa and Ensete cvs., Zones 8–10) and elephant’s ears (Colo-
casia, Alocasia, and Xanthosoma cvs., Zones 9–11) to lend bold
texture among finer-leaved perennials and woodies. Frequently
I leave them in their big pots, though sometimes I plant them
in the ground. The payoff comes with the over-the-top interest With this foliage-focused design, there is never a dull
they contribute late in the season, after many perennials fade. moment. The fresh hues of spring (above) start the season with
style, and the blazing fall finale (below) is even more dramatic.
Adding plants with great color in the “shoulder seasons” can
Stay flexible, especially in the shade liven up any shady bed.
One of the biggest things my garden has taught me is that
shade from tall trees is not constant or uniform. It is fun to see
light breaking through in different places throughout the day,
like a spotlight showcasing plants and garden vignettes. Some-
times shade can change very suddenly, as it did when a large
oak tree blew down in a storm a few years back. Living with
the opening it left, I realized that its passing presented new
opportunities. The tree’s tall stump now elegantly supports a
‘Miranda’ climbing hydrangea, and the surrounding plants have
flourished in the additional light they receive. Gardeners, espe-
cially shade gardeners, are often reminded that we are not in
charge of what nature chooses to do.
Colorful, shade-loving plants are sometimes hard to find, and
this has also helped to teach me flexibility. Because a few key
nurseries in our area closed this year, my favorite coleus and
other annuals I count on buying each spring were not available.
I substituted in some Persian shields (Strobilanthes dyerianus,
Zones 9–11) that I had on hand, and they added a totally new
Bottom photo, this page: courtesy of Mary Gore
and unexpected look.

If you are holding off on starting a garden because you aren’t
sure where to start, I suggest taking an intuitive approach. Find
plants you love, and let them be your guide. Ask the plants
where they would like to go, and do your best to make them
happy. You will be surprised and delighted by how they work
together to create harmonies you never could have imagined.
Mary Gore is an accountant who gardens in The Beaches neighborhood

of Toronto.
M
HADEake You r
Reall
y
Shine
S W
The secret is using three key colors to
pump up the interest in low-light spots
BY INTA KROMBOLZ
hen it comes to gardening, shade is a

lot like a rainstorm at a picnic: It isn’t
in your ideal plan, but you have to
make the best of the situation. Believe it or not,
I actually prefer to garden in the shade because
it takes more thought and creativity to combine
plants successfully. We all know that the key to
combinations that work is how we use color, tex-
ture, and form. But when it comes to shade, color
is the most important factor. Without color, shade
gardens would be nothing but a sea of never-ending
green. How boring.
I rely on three specific colors to make low-light
areas pop: white, gold, and some sort of red hue
(crimson, burgundy, deep pink, or orange). I use
each of these colors differently and in specific areas
of the garden. By following the guidelines I’ve
developed, you’ll be able to create stunning shade
combinations. So if you believe that only people
with sunny gardens can achieve eye-catching plant
pairings, think again.
WHITE

RED GOLD
WHITE lightens the deepest shade
Areas of deep shade can be the most problematic spots to infuse life. Under trees or on the north side of a building is usually considered a
“no-plant’s land” of the garden, where you’re happy just to have anything grow at all. But these spots are ideal opportunities to site plants
with white variegation. Because the plants that live in these black holes of the garden are usually dark green, dashes of white not only offer
a nice color contrast but also highlight the form and texture of the surrounding selections.
❯ Why it works: The

creamy variegation of
the hostas in this group-
ing provide bright white
exclamation points in
a densely shaded spot.
By adding in the silvery
sedge leaves, the texture
3
of the all-green arborvitae
fern shines.
1. ‘HIGH SOCIETY’ HOSTA
2
(Hosta ‘High Society’,
Zones 3–9)
2. ARBORVITAE FERN
(Selaginella braunii,
Zones 7–11)
3. ‘SILVER SCEPTRE’ SEDGE
(Carex ‘Silver Sceptre’,
Zones 5–9)
4. ‘GREAT EXPECTATIONS’
HOSTA (Hosta ‘Great
Expectations’, Zones 3–9)
1 5. JAPANESE FOREST
GRASS (Hakonechloa
macra, Zones 5–9)
5
Why it works: This combination features plants with white flowers or silver-hued leaves, each of
which echoes the foliage of the tree above it: a variegated giant dogwood (Cornus controversa
‘Variegata’, Zones 6–9). The soft textures of the sedges help the larger leaves stand out, especially
in the case of this combo’s highlight plant: ‘Hadspen Cream’ brunnera.
1. ‘AUTUMN BRIDE’ HEUCHERA (Heuchera villosa ‘Autumn Bride’, Zones 5–9)
2. ‘HADSPEN CREAM’ BRUNNERA (Brunnera macrophylla ‘Hadspen Cream’, Zones 3–7)
Photos: Danielle Sherry
3. ‘SILVER SCEPTRE’ SEDGE (Carex ‘Silver Sceptre’, Zones 5–9)

4. ‘SILVER TASSEL’ SEDGE (Carex morrowii ‘Silver Tassel’, Zones 5–9)
5. ‘MILKY WAY’ EPIMEDIUM (Epimedium × youngianum ‘Milky Way’, Zones 5–9)

3
GOLD makes partial shade glow
I use golden (and sometimes chartreuse) plants in medium-shade areas to help enhance the glow of what little sunlight touches the garden.
Gold magnifies sunlight, casting a glow onto plants nearby. It’s a bad idea to put gold-variegated plants in deep shade because they like to
revert back to all green. In areas with too much sun (with only light shade), they turn an unsightly electric yellow and burn out. The illuminating
quality of gold brings out the rough or puckered texture of plants. So if you have a hosta with deeply ridged leaves, place a golden or
chartreuse companion with a smooth texture nearby.
❯ Why it works: The

golden center margin of
‘On Stage’ hosta shows
off how puckered and
deeply grooved it is.
The deep, long ridges
nicely mimic the lines of
golden Japanese forest
grass. I decided to put
2 the smaller ‘Hi Ho Silver’
hosta in this combination
because its yellowy cream
variegation gives it some
connection to gold.
1. ‘ON STAGE’ HOSTA
(Hosta ‘On Stage’,
Zones 3–9)
2. PURPLE PERILLA
(Perilla frutescens*
‘Atropurpurea’, annual)
3. ‘ALL GOLD’ JAPANESE
FOREST GRASS
(Hakonechloa macra
‘All Gold’, Zones 5–9)
1 4. ‘PAINTER’S PALETTE’
KNOTWEED (Persicaria
virginiana ‘Painter’s
Palette’, Zones 5–9)
5. ‘HI HO SILVER’ HOSTA
(Hosta ‘Hi Ho Silver’,
Zones 3–9)
*See invasive alert on page 109.
Why it works: Adding a conifer to any plant combination makes it more interesting because it’s
so unexpected; I especially like Japanese cedars because they have soft, attractive textures. The
chartreuse tips of this Japanese cedar are echoed by the variegated leaves of the knotweed and the
golden tips of the boxleaf honeysuckle, making them perfect color-echo companions.
1. ‘BAGGESEN’S GOLD’ BOXLEAF HONEYSUCKLE (Lonicera nitida ‘Baggesen’s Gold’, Zones 6–9)
2. ‘PAINTER’S PALETTE’ KNOTWEED (Persicaria virginiana ‘Painter’s Palette’, Zones 5–9)
3. ‘GLOBOSA NANA’ JAPANESE CEDAR (Cryptomeria japonica ‘Globosa Nana’, Zones 6–9)

1
5
Photo:
RED breaks up the green in light shade
Soft colors don’t usually work in shade because they aren’t dynamic enough to shine in the darkness. Instead, use plants that have blossoms or
foliage with vibrant, hot colors. These hues need more sunlight, so areas of light shade are best. Because of their vibrancy, these colors act like
beacons, attracting attention not only to themselves but also to their neighbors. Red and most other hot colors are also opposite to green on
the color wheel, so they naturally complement the customary hue of the shade garden.
❯ Why it works: Red

wakes up other colors. It
pairs brilliantly with other
hot shades, such as orange,
yellow, and chartreuse. The
best way to maximize the
powerful punch of red is
to combine it with plants
that have similar hot hues
but different shapes and
textures. The coleus and
2 fuchsia provide the pop
of red in this grouping and
help draw attention to the
lacy texture of the birch
tree and the serrated leaves
of the sumac. The Japanese
maple and the liriope bring
additional dashes of color.
1. TIGER EYES™ CUTLEAF
STAGHORN SUMAC
1 (Rhus typhina ‘Bailtiger’,
Zones 4–8)
2. ‘SHAINA’ JAPANESE
MAPLE (Acer palmatum
‘Shaina’, Zones 5–9)
3. ‘GARTENMEISTER
BONSTEDT’ FUCHSIA
(Fuchsia ‘Gartenmeister
Bonstedt’, Zones 9–10)
3
4. ‘ALABAMA SUNSET’
COLEUS (Plectranthus
scutellarioides ‘Alabama
Sunset’, Zone 11)
5. ‘PEE DEE INGOT’ LIRIOPE
(Liriope muscari ‘Pee Dee
Ingot’, Zones 6–10)
6. ‘FILIGREE LACE’
WEEPING BIRCH
(Betula pendula ‘Filigree
Lace’, Zones 2–7)
Why it works: Without the deep pink blooms of the Chinese indigo, this would be a pretty
boring bunch. But the splash of rich color draws attention to the fine texture of the threadleaf
bluestar and the rosy tones of the perilla.
1. THREADLEAF BLUESTAR (Amsonia hubrichtii, Zones 5–8)
2. PURPLE PERILLA (Perilla frutescens* ‘Atropurpurea’, annual)
3. CHINESE INDIGO (Indigofera decora, Zones 7–9)
Inta Krombolz gardens deep in the woods of West Chester, Pennsylvania, and likes to create welded garden statuary in her spare time.

1
4
3
5
6
You’re going to
LOVE YOUR
SHADE
Transform any dim spot into the highlight of
your garden with these bright ideas
BY SCOTT ENDRES
ost of us aren’t fortunate enough to
M have a full day’s worth of sun in our

gardens, yet even the most experi-
enced among us is still a little intimidated by
shady areas. They are often uncharted terri-
tory—the last place you want to plant because
you’re not even sure what will grow there. But
whether you have a shady entryway or a tree-
shaded yard, there are plenty of options that can
bring light and life to your dark space. Simply
remember that a successful shade garden starts
with good plant choices and adherence to the
principles and elements of design.
When you begin exploring your plant options,
you’ll discover a plethora of textures and forms.
You’ll also find plenty of color—most notably,
shades of green and light-simulating chartreuse
and silver. The first step is to pair these plants,
focusing on establishing contrast among tex-
tures, shapes, sizes, and colors to help you play
up the qualities of each plant. Next, become
aware of how the plant combinations work in
relation to the scale of their environment, how
they create focal interest, and how they draw
the eye from one successful combination to
the next. You’re striving to create individual
combinations that add interest and fend off the
monotony of hosta, hosta, hosta. But you’re also
trying to create combos that contribute and
connect to the overall landscape.
Here are examples of how picking the right
plants and sticking to these basic elements of
design can create a pleasing ensemble of plants
that make the shade come alive.
Photo:

Two towering shade
trees can’t stop this
garden from glowing.
Light abounds in the
form of bright green and
vibrant yellow foliage.
Photo:
9
4
7
3
6
Unite a divided space with similar plants LIGHT LEVEL: Partial shade
In this entry garden leading to the front door, the central 1. Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum var. pictum, Zones 5–8)
stone path divides the garden in half, yet each side remains 2. ‘Patriot’ hosta (Hosta ‘Patriot’, Zones 3–9)
connected through repetition of the same or similar plants.
3. Angelonia (Angelonia angustifolia cv., annual)
For example, Japanese painted fern, ‘Aureola’ Japanese
forest grass, ‘Nikko Blue’ hydrangea, Emperor I® Japanese 4. ‘Nikko Blue’ bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Nikko Blue’,
maple, and ‘Blue Angel’ hosta are all duplicated on the Zones 6–9)
opposite side of the path. The Japanese maples are essen- 5. ‘Frances Williams’ hosta (Hosta ‘Frances Williams’, Zones 3–9)
tial for adding a little color and offering some transitional 6. ‘Chidori Red’ ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea ‘Chidori Red’, annual)
height between the canopy of mature oaks and the lower 7. ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, Zones 5–9)
herbaceous perennials and small shrubs. The sun-loving
8. ‘Blue Angel’ hosta (Hosta ‘Blue Angel’, Zones 3–9)
pine in the foreground takes advantage of one of the few
pockets of full sun, where it is right at home alongside its 9. Emperor I® Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Wolff’, Zones 5–8)
shady neighbors.

3
5
1
2
LIGHT LEVEL: – Full to partial shade
1. ‘Northern Pride’ Siberian cypress (Microbiota decussata ‘Northern Pride’, Zones 3–7)
2. ‘Love Pat’ hosta (Hosta ‘Love Pat’, Zones 3–9)
3. Bur oak (Quercus macrocarpa, Zones 3–9)
4. ‘Obsidian’ heuchera (Heuchera ‘Obsidian’, Zones 3–8)
5. ‘Sum and Substance’ hosta (Hosta ‘Sum and Substance’, Zones 3–9)
WHAT’S MY SHADE?
There are more shade-plant options these days than ever before, but FULL SHADE: Site receives
you still have to pick those that work within the light levels prevalent less than three hours of sun
in your garden. How do you do this? Monitor the hours of sunlight to per day.
successfully pair the right plants to your location. Some areas likely
PARTIAL SHADE: Site receives
will get more light than others, and you may surprise yourself by find-
three to five hours of sun per
ing that there are pockets of full sun and partial shade in your shade
day.
garden. Be honest with yourself when assessing your light levels. It
is easy to make ourselves believe that we get that extra hour or two FULL SUN: Site receives more
of sun to justify adding a sexy new plant to the garden. Even if the than five hours of sun per day.
plant survives, it will not thrive if it doesn’t receive its minimum light
requirements—and that’s not very sexy.
6
5 3
4
2
Even in shade, scale is important LIGHT LEVEL: Partial shade

Large groups of herbaceous perennials provide impact and 1. ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra
appropriate scale near the foundation of this home. Layering ‘Aureola’, Zones 5–9)
bands of contrasting textures, shapes, heights, and colors add 2. ‘Blue Angel’ hosta (Hosta ‘Blue Angel’, Zones 3–9)
depth, interest, and drama. The bright chartreuse foliage of the
3. ‘Nikko Blue’ bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla
fine-textured Japanese forest grass highlights the edge of the
‘Nikko Blue’, Zones 6–9)
bed while drawing the viewer’s eye to other foundation plants.
The group of tall ‘Lavender Mist’ meadow rues offers height 4. Angelonia (Angelonia angustifolia cv., annual)
and transparency without compromising the view from the win- 5. ‘The Rocket’ ligularia (Ligularia stenocephala
dow behind them. Several pines to the left of this combo offer ‘The Rocket’, Zones 4–8)
year-round stability as the flowers of hydrangea, ligularia, and 6. ‘Lavender Mist’ meadow rue (Thalictrum rochebruneanum
meadow rue come and go throughout the seasons. ‘Lavender Mist’, Zones 5–9)
Use annuals to fill in the gaps

Annuals in a border not only boost the
scene with continuous color but also help
fill in gaps when perennial plantings aren’t
mature enough to do the work on their
own. The impatiens in this combo is an
6 easy annual to grow in shade, but also
consider begonias (Begonia spp. and cvs.,
Zones 8–11), torenia (Torenia spp. and cvs.,
Zones 10–11), and foliage favorites such
as coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides cvs.,
Zone 11), hypoestes (Hypoestes spp. and
cvs., Zones 10–11), and tradescantia (Trad-
5 escantia spp. and cvs., Zones 8–11)—all
treated as annuals in Minnesota but as
perennials in other regions. Add even more
interest with details like the beautiful bark
of threeflower maple.
4
LIGHT LEVEL: Full shade
1. ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass
(Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, Zones 5–9)
2. ‘Jack Frost’ brunnera (Brunnera
macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’, Zones 3–7)
2
3. Accent® White impatiens (Impatiens
3 walleriana Accent® White, annual)
4. ‘Frances Williams’ hosta (Hosta
‘Frances Williams’, Zones 3–9)
5. Korean wax bells (Kirengeshoma
1 palmata, Zones 5–8)
6. Threeflower maple (Acer triflorum,
Zones 5–7)

4
3
Photos: Brandi Spade
Go short in the middle

Sometimes it’s all right to break the rules: Short plants don’t have to be used only at the garden’s edge. A river of heuchera flows
between taller plants, directing the eye to various points of interest in this deep border. The color of the heuchera relates to the
Japanese maple’s canopy of foliage but, more importantly, creates depth and separation among the other plants. The right amount
of variegated and chartreuse foliage adds further interest to this otherwise dark grouping. Three hosta varieties are separated by
contrasting plant textures and leaf colors, making each one special while also complementing its bedmates.
LIGHT LEVEL: – Full to partial shade

1. ‘Frances Williams’ hosta (Hosta ‘Frances Williams’, Zones 3–9)
2. ‘Obsidian’ heuchera (Heuchera ‘Obsidian’, Zones 3–8)
3. ‘Blue Angel’ hosta (Hosta ‘Blue Angel’, Zones 3–9)
4. Emperor I® Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Wolff’, Zones 5–8)
5. ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, Zones 5–9)
6. ‘Patriot’ hosta (Hosta ‘Patriot’, Zones 3–9)
7. Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum var. pictum, Zones 5–8)
Scott Endres is co-owner of Tangletown Gardens in Minneapolis.
Out-of-the-ordinary
CONTAINERS
FOR
SHADE
Try these unique textures and colors
for pots that really shine
BY SARAH PARTYKA
o you feel like once you’ve seen one shady container
D design, you’ve really seen them all? I often feel that way,
and I have no excuse for monotony since I have a nurs-
ery full of plants at my fingertips. But it seems that as gardeners
we like to go back to what works. Sure, there may be a cooler,
more eye-catching plant to use—but will it perform as well as
my staple coleus or New Guinea impatiens? The truth is that
there are many unusual shade plants that do wonderfully in
container gardens. After years of experimenting with an array
of perennials, tropicals, and just about every fern out there, I’ve
found a series of colorful and textural options for shade that
are both stunning and reliable. Many of these plants have now
become my new staples. (Sorry, coleus.)
There’s no such thing as too bold

Usually a design has one “thriller,” a big, bold plant whose
presence overshadows all the rest and begs for attention. In this
planter I decided to let three focal-point plants duke it out for
the spotlight (the caladium, the large-leaf glory flower, and the
bromeliad). The grouping ends up looking like one big bold mass,
drawing the eye up and down the pot. The red-pink accents
provided by the bromeliad bloom are perfectly echoed by the
caladium leaves and begonia blossoms. This pot will need some
filtered sunlight, so a partial shade spot is best.
PLANTS
1. ‘Red Flash’ caladium (Caladium ‘Red Flash’, Zones 9–11)
2. ‘My Special Angel’ begonia (Begonia ‘My Special Angel’,
Zones 9–11)
3. Large-leaf glory flower (Tibouchina grandiflora, Zones 10–12)
4. Bromeliad (Aechmea weilbachii cv., Zone 12)
5. Grape ivy (Cissus alata, Zones 10–12)

3
2 4
5
Photo:
A monochromatic design stands out from the crowd ❯
There is no law stating that in order to have impact a container must have a lot of color. This group-
ing has only various shades of green (from the chartreuse elephant’s ear to the yellowish green
stripes of the ginger). It’s the playful combination of fine and coarse textures that steals the show,
though. For example, the night-blooming cereus is a bulky, almost snakelike plant when seen by 5
itself, but when paired with the finer fronds of the ribbon plant, it pops out visually. 4
1
PLANTS
1. Night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Zone 10) 3
2
2. Yellow wax bells (Kirengeshoma palmata, Zones 5–8)
3. Variegated shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet, Zones 8–11)
4. Ribbon plant (Homalocladium platycladum, Zones 9–11)
5. ‘Red-Eyed Gecko’ elephant’s ear (Colocasia esculenta* ‘Red-Eyed Gecko’, Zones 9–11)
*See invasive alert on page 109.

Darker colors need a pop
of chartreuse
Purple and burgundy plants can be a
big no-no in the shade because they
just end up looking like giant black
holes in your pots. To make them work,
try pairing plants such as rex begonia
vine and bromeliad with a shock of
chartreuse. Here, the ‘Sun King’ aralia
contrasts beautifully with the darker
hues and makes them come forward
visually instead of receding into a
black abyss.
1
4
2 3
Photos, except where noted: Danielle Sherry. Photo p. 90, left: Jennifer Benner.
PLANTS
1. ‘Hope’ philodendron (Philodendron
selloum ‘Hope’, Zones 9–11)
2. ‘Sun King’ aralia (Aralia cordata
‘Sun King’, Zones 4–8)
3. Rex begonia vine (Cissus discolor,
Zone 11)
4. Ming fern (Asparagus retrofractus,
Zones 9–11)
5. ‘Green Eyes’ bromeliad (Neoregelia
‘Green Eyes’, Zone 12)
| GROWING TIPS |
Don’t underestimate
the importance of airf low
In order to achieve a full and lush
look in containers, we tend to plant
things closer than we would in the
garden. This can become problem-
atic because airflow is diminished
and fungal diseases can set in,
especially in shady areas where
evaporation is further limited. Here
are a few tips for making sure your
shade containers don’t become
petri dishes of mildew and fungus.
N&"$*"%)"/
+*$%**%%"%)"/
It’s fine to want your containers to ):>:=2C923:ED2C6%!:7E96C62C64@?EC2DE:?8E6IEFC6D
be full, but remember that plants do I get bored by seeing the same one-type-of-plant-per-pot
grow. Cramming a dozen plants into
hanging baskets that many nurseries have made the
a 12-inch pot is only going to lead
norm. Instead, I filled this coco-liner basket with an
to trouble—a lack of airflow and too
much root competition, for starters. assortment of plants with similar rounded habits.
(Anything too tall would have looked awkward.) 3
N%$*%,(-*( With no clear focal-point plant, you would
Shady containers will likely need to 6
think the combination wouldn’t work. To add 1
be watered less than their sunny interest, though, I made sure that for every
counterparts. The key to watering 5
plant with bold texture (like the blue star
shade pots is to do it infrequently 2
fern), I planted one with fine texture (like 4
but deeply (depending on the
the asparagus fern). The pairings have an
conditions). Soggy pots are asking
to be breeding grounds for fungal energy that is hard to put into words. Color-
diseases. ful punches from the heuchera and begonias
elevate the design further.
7
N(#%,)'+)/
)&$*"%%#) PLANTS
Flowering shade plants such as =F6DE2C76C? (Phlebodium aureum, Zones 8–10)
begonias are beautiful, but their
@=46C6>6CF=R6®96F496C2 (Heuchera ‘TNHEU041’,
fleshy spent blooms turn slimy
Zones 4–8)
quickly. This detritus is another
68@?:2(Begonia cv., Zones 9–11)
catalyst for fungal diseases, so it’s
best to do a weekly cleanout of DA2C28FD76C? (Asparagus setaceus, Zones 9–12)
the old blossoms. 1=24<,6=G6E368@?:2 (Begonia ‘Black Velvet’, Zones 9–11)
:C5D?6DE76C? (Asplenium nidus, Zones 11–12)
)A2?:D9>@DD (Tillandsia usneoides, Zones 8–11)

Silver shimmers like no other hue
If you want a container that is guaranteed to stand out in the shade, plant it with an assortment of silver-hued 2
beauties. Whether your spot is dark and dreary or gets a half-day of sun, silver and variegated plants take
what little light there is and reflect it back like a mirror. This gives designs like this one an ethereal quality
that draws folks in for a closer look from across the yard or patio. The fuzzy texture of the plectranthus 1 4
leaves and shiny smoothness of the bromeliad blades provide another level of interest too.
3
PLANTS
1. ‘Silver Shield’ plectranthus (Plectranthus argentatus ‘Silver Shield’, Zones 10–11)
2. ‘Rhubarb’ elephant’s ear (Colocasia esculenta* ‘Rhubarb’, Zones 9–11) 5
3. Bromeliad (Aechmea chantinii cv., Zone 12)
4. ‘Jurassic Silver Point’ rex begonia (Begonia ‘Jurassic Silver Point’, Zones 9–11)
5. Dichondra (Dichondra argentea ‘Silver Falls’, Zones 10–12)
Sarah Partyka is the owner of The Farmer’s Daughter in South Kingstown, Rhode Island.
The worst planting
conditions imaginable
didn’t stop this garden.
A few simple strategies
allowed this landscape,
installed at the base of
a fir, maple, and cedar
forest, to take form
without much hassle.
Photo:

DRY
SHADE
DONE SIMPLY
Streamlining your plant palette
and layering your design can transform an area
of extreme root competition
BY SUSAN CALHOUN
Photo:
From bleak and
inhospitable to lush
and welcoming. This
transformation started
at the front entry, where
select trees were removed
to make room for a wider
walkway and elevated
plant beds.
s it possible to have a great garden in the least hospitable Zones 5–8) flanking the walkway to the home’s beautiful wood
I conditions imaginable? Many would say no. That was the

challenge a pair of homeowners on Bainbridge Island,
Washington, gave to me and my team: Build a stunning garden
and glass porch. The path itself was just a series of stepping
stones in bark that headed straight for the door (inset photo
above).We wanted to provide an interesting journey, with
at the base of an established forest of maples, cedars, and firs. firmer footing, lighting, and lush plantings, but first we had to
As a designer, I thought when I first saw the site, “Oh no—the convince the owners to let us remove several of the old maples.
dreaded dry shade.” But I also knew it provided a unique back- We wanted to keep things shady, so the question became “What
drop for what could be a gorgeous space. Through thoughtful stays, and what goes?”
preparation of the planting areas, simplification of the plant Many of the trees had been left to their own growth pattern
palette, and a focus on layering, we turned what could have for a number of years and were a mess of crossing trunks and
been a nightmare into a lovely garden, against all odds. branches. Choosing carefully, we thinned out those with the
worst bent trunks and forged a balance between the maples
Make the planting environment a bit more hospitable that remained and the large firs (Pseudotsuga menziesii, Zones
The house entry was the first challenge. The only “garden” was 4–6) and cedars (Thuja plicata, Zones 5–8) that shared the
a cluster of randomly placed vine maples (Acer circinatum, space. This left us with room to install a generous walkway

E.
C.
D. HOUSE A.
B.
| THE PLAN |
Tucked away under a forest

What once was a barren understory has become
a fun, vibrant garden nestled at the base of a
mature woodland.
A. Front entry garden
B. New front walkway
C. Partially shaded rear garden
D. Walkway through partial shade into sunny area
E. Seating area
and flank it with slightly elevated planting beds that would

still be in dappled shade but would give new plants a little less
root competition. A bonus was the wonderful contrast created
between the wispy vine maples and the taller trees’ sturdy,
solid trunks (photo above).
The redesigned concrete walkway shifts between the trees,
creating planting pockets along the way. Lights now illuminate
the irregular step patterns and enhance the overall look of the
space, but side paths and trees remain unlit to maintain the
sense of walking through the forest.
Simplify the plant palette: Choose texture over color

Sometimes removing plants is necessary. Taking out just
The plants in this garden were chosen with several require-
one gangly vine maple made space for a planting pocket filled
ments in mind (including active dog play), but we essentially with an array of lush perennials, a Japanese maple, and a few
opted for textures over flowers. In fact, the plant palette is dwarf shrubs.
Photos, except where noted: Joshua McCullough. Photos p. 94: courtesy of Susan Calhoun. Illustration p. 95: Sally Lawrence/Botanica Atlanta.
No flowers, but plenty of interest. This area of the property gets only partial shade, limiting the plant options. The plants selected are
essentially a master class in textural contrasts. Although not one bloom can be seen, the bed is still eye-catching.
mostly an array of light greens. In making selections, we looked

for a diversity of leaf shapes, but mostly a diversity in textures
(photo above). Many plants were cultivars of Northwestern
natives that are well adapted to life in a root-packed, acidic
environment. These included several types of azaleas and rho-
dodendrons (Rhododendron spp. and cvs., Zones 2–9). Texture
never quits, so when the conditions limit the options, we like
to make sure that the plants selected look good regardless of
the season. We always exploit textural contrasts too, by pairing
bold leaves with wispy ones (photo facing page).
We also used many different ground covers throughout the
front garden for a couple of reasons. First, ground covers tend
to be shallow rooted, and therefore root competition was less
likely to be an issue. Second, we wanted to take advantage of
every possible inch of suitable planting space. The selections
we ended up with—such as Crimson Fans mukdenia and baby’s
tears (Soleirolia soleirolii, Zones 8–11; photo left)—fill every
possible planting crack and crevice, even in between the
edging rocks.
The back of the property is a different garden altogether.
Though still shaded by large conifers (with large root systems),
it has more exuberance due to the greater openness of the site
(photo p. 98). The Japanese maples (Acer palmatum and cvs.,
Zones 5–9) and conifers that grow here are surrounded by lush
Ground covers and huggers play an important role. Every
perennials that, again, can take drier, partial shade conditions.
possible nook and cranny is filled with plants, since suitable
planting spots are hard to come by in this garden. Here, baby’s The plants here still have impressive texture, but a few—such
tears and mukdenia fill in underneath a larger conifer. as Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum, Zones 4–9) and

A bed filled with
contrasts is always
compelling. The soft
textures of the bamboo,
ferns, and Japanese
maple in this spot truly
jump out at you when
paired against the big
bold leaves of umbrella
plant (Darmera peltata,
Zones 5–7) and some
larger hostas. This is
especially surprising
since all the key players
are green.
transition between the concrete
Much of the garden’s appeal comes from walkway and the garden.
the multilayered approach to the plantings.
Rely on layers to keep
things in scale
Much of the garden’s appeal comes
from the multilayered approach to
the plantings. Mature evergreens
in both the front and back of the
property anchor the garden and
supply strong seasonal interest
under the Northwest’s gray skies.
Much of this garden is planted as an
understory to the surrounding trees,
Photos facing page, clockwise from top left: Brandi Spade; Steve Aitken; courtesy of perennialresource.com; Michelle Gervais; Jennifer Benner; doreenwynja.com
and the scale is based around the
size of the house and the surround-
ing woodland. We felt it would be
difficult to bring the large trees
down into the planting because of
their sheer size. Only the trunks
could actually be incorporated,
acting more like sculptural focal
points. The vertical lines of large
firs and the vine maples play off the
verticals of the house with pooling
plants at their base (top photo,
p. 96). The tiered planting starts
with the trunks as the back layer.
The other layers within each bed
mimic what you would find in a
natural wooded forest, with taller
shrubs at the base of the trunks,
then midsize perennials, and finally
creeping mosses and ground covers
at the lowest planting level.
In the front it was particularly
A bit more light, but just as many roots. Layers of texture—from the fine, billowy softness of important to use layering within
Japanese forest grass to the bold denseness of bergenia (Bergenia spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8) provide
the scale set by the low-profile, one-
contrast to the concrete hardscaping in the back garden.
story home. The garden’s job here
meadow rue (Thalictrum spp. and cvs., Zones 4–7)—may have wasn’t necessarily to marry the tops of the trees with the resi-
impressive blooms too. dence, but to provide enough multilayered interest to highlight
A fun, curved concrete walkway creviced with black Mexican the house and the walkway to the front door while incorporat-
beach pebbles connects an existing pathway with the watering those massive trunks as a layer all their own (photo p. 94).
side sitting area. To reach that spot, the path winds from an The large walkway (built to be in scale with the large trunks)
area of partial shade back to an area of full shade within a keeps you walking comfortably between the larger plants and
sturdy grove of mature pines, spruces, and Japanese maples. trees in the garden to the front door. It’s the layers within this
Here, many of the plants are fine-textured, such as fluffy garden that are the bones and that make this space appealing—
alpine water fern (Blechnum penna-marina, Zones 6–9), fine- despite its challenging conditions—in all four seasons.
bladed black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigres-
cens’, Zones 6–9), and Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa Susan Calhoun is the owner of Plantswoman Design in Bainbridge Island,
macra ‘Aureola’, Zones 5–9). These select plants soften the Washington.

| PLANTS |
Dry shade doesn’t have to ruin the party

True, dry shade might be the hardest set of conditions to find plants for. A great many interesting
options do exist—including some plants you might be familiar with but just didn’t know were
candidates for the dreaded dry shade. Here are a few of my favorites.
Crimson Fans mukdenia ‘Jack Frost’ brunnera ‘Big Blue’ lily turf
(Mukdenia rossii ‘Karasuba’) (Brunnera macrophylla (Liriope ‘Big Blue’)
ZONES: 4–8 ‘Jack Frost’) ZONES: 5–10
SIZE: 8 to 10 inches tall and ZONES: 3–8 SIZE: 14 inches tall and wide
18 inches wide SIZE: 12 to 18 inches tall NATIVE RANGE: Asia
NATIVE RANGE: China, Korea and wide This grassy perennial is good
I think this plant is most beauti- NATIVE RANGE: Europe, Asia for retaining soil at the edge of
ful when sited on the edges This is truly an amazing plant. It plantings or mixing into lower
of pathways. It would be more continues to give and give, with ground covers. Spikes of blue
vigorous with more water, but it starry blue forget-me-not flow- flowers with a fine texture will
still grows well with considerably ers in spring and brilliantly silver finish with berries on the stems
less moisture (a layer of mulch variegated leaves that really in fall.
is a good idea). The leaves are shine in the deepest shade. In
colorful year-round and impos- spots with mild winters, it can
sibly shiny. be evergreen.
Taiwan mondo grass Autumn fern Black Scallop ajuga

(Ophiopogon formosanum) (Dryopteris erythrosora) (Ajuga reptans ’Binblasca’)
SIZE: 4 to 6 inches tall and SIZE: 18 to 24 inches tall SIZE: 3 to 6 inches tall and
2 to 3 feet wide and wide 24 inches wide
NATIVE RANGE: Asia NATIVE RANGE: Eastern Asia NATIVE RANGE: Europe, Asia,
A gentle unassuming mondo This fabulous fern has such Africa
grass that grows happily without amazing color that from a dis- Ajuga gets a bad rap. Some-
much attention, this is a slow tance it looks like sweeps of times it escapes and goes
spreader. In spring it blooms astilbe (Astilbe spp. and cvs., where it isn’t wanted. However,
like crazy, with spikes of white Zones 4–9). The upright fronds the bigger scale of this variety
flowers coming up through start out copper-colored before gives it great structure and
the foliage. Small blue berries turning to brilliant yellow-gold. makes it easier to control. The
appear in fall and are eaten Pores on the back of the fronds large runners can be easily
by many overwintering birds. are bright red, adding another pulled out to keep it in check.
dimension of color. It’s ever- Pollinators love its fragrant
green in most zones. purple-blue flowers.
Photo:
| R E GI O NAL PI CKS: B OLD PLA N TS F OR SHA DE |
NORTHWEST
CHINESE GIANT LILY JEWELED CHAIN FERN CHINESE MAYAPPLE

Cardiocrinum giganteum Woodwardia unigemmata Podophyllum delavayi
SIZE: 2 feet tall with flower stems reaching up 8 to SIZE: 2 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide SIZE: 15 to 18 inches tall and 3 to 4 feet wide
12 feet; 3 feet wide CONDITIONS: Partial shade; rich, moist soil CONDITIONS: Full to partial shade; rich soil
Photos, clockwise from top left: Doreen Wynja; Joshua McCullough (2); courtesy of Richie Steffen; millettephotomedia.com
CONDITIONS: Partial shade; rich, moist soil
This fern inspires immediate plant lust. The large Few plants have a more stunning foliage display than
“Unbelievable” is the only word I can use to describe fronds can reach lengths of 4 to 6 feet and emerge Chinese mayapple. This deciduous perennial erupts
this robust lily. In late spring to early summer, mature a heart-stopping maroon red that slowly fades to a from the ground with large leaves in a kaleidoscope of
bulbs send up tall spires reaching 8 to 12 feet, topped rich deep green. These evergreen fronds form low, earthy colors. Tones of olive, maroon, chocolate brown,
with fragrant trumpet-shaped blooms. Once the flow- broad arching mounds that allow smaller perennials and apple green spot and speckle the leaves. Hidden
ers have faded, clusters of large seedpods replace the and ground covers to be grown underneath. This beneath the foliage are dangling bright, blood-red
blooms, remaining an attractive conversation piece well plant’s common name comes from a single large bud flowers that, when pollinated, form apple red, teardrop-
into winter. This amazing lily can be grown from seed, that forms near the tip of mature fronds. If that bud shaped fruit. The rounded leaves are deeply cut and
which requires seven years of patience while waiting for is tucked into loose compost for the winter, a new fern form a lush, eye-catching patch over time. Chinese
the glossy green hostalike leaves to grow large enough will sprout in the spring. mayapples can be heavy feeders, so fertilize regularly.
to flower. Starting with a bulb shortens your wait to three
or four years. After the plant flowers, the bulb dies, but
three to five young bulbs form to flower in the future.
Feed and water regularly during the growing season.
CHINESE EPIMEDIUM REGIONAL EXPERT

Epimedium wushanense
ZONES: 5 to 9
CONDITIONS: Partial shade; rich, well-drained soil
One of the best new epimediums is Chinese epime-
dium. This species has large, showy, spidery, creamy
yellow blooms held in dainty clusters just above
amazingly bold, shiny green foliage. The intriguing
leaves emerge brightly colored, from olive green with
dark maroon splashes to saturated wine red. As the Richie Steffen is executive
leaves mature, they turn dark green and develop a director of the Elisabeth C.
leathery feel with an attractive, but not painful, spiny Miller Botanical Garden in
edge. Chinese epimedium is a great long-lived clump- Seattle.
ing perennial.

SOUTHWEST
SCARLET HEDGENETTLE COBWEB SPIDERWORT ARIZONA SAGE

Stachys coccinea Tradescantia sillamontana Salvia arizonica
Photos, clockwise from top left: Joshua McCullough (2); David Salman; courtesy of David Salman; Alan Cressler, Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center

SIZE: 14 to 16 inches tall and 15 to 18 inches wide SIZE: 4 to 6 inches tall and 15 to 18 inches wide SIZE: 8 to 12 inches tall and 15 to 18 inches wide
CONDITIONS: Full to partial shade; dry to moist, CONDITIONS: Full to partial shade; dry to moist, CONDITIONS: Full to partial shade; well-drained soil
well-drained soil well-drained soil
This uncommon native sage blooms all summer with a
An uncommon native plant in cultivation, this shade- An endemic wildflower from the high-elevation moun- profusion of small blue flowers. Because Arizona sage
loving wildflower blooms all summer with spikes of tains around Monterey, Mexico, this spiderwort has spreads modestly with vigorous underground roots, it is
tubular coral-red to red flowers. It’s a superior nectar webbed, almost succulent foliage and a midsummer especially useful for planting under deciduous trees and
source for hummingbirds. The strongly aromatic, deep display of large, bright pink flowers. The plant grows large shrubs to create colorful drifts of flowers in their
green foliage is nearly rabbit- and deer-proof. Native from large tuberous roots that store water during dry shade. The flowers are a good nectar source for native
to shady draws and along seasonal streams, it’s well periods. Slowly spreading to make a low-growing bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Native in the mid-
suited to dry shade with occasional deep watering. For ground cover, cobweb spiderwort is a good choice to higher-elevation mountains of southern Arizona and
the best performance, keep it well mulched with coarse under deciduous trees and tall pines as well as in West Texas, it has excellent cold hardiness and drought
compost. Scarlet hedgenettle is native across sections shaded beds around the north and east sides of your tolerance. The plant’s aromatic foliage is highly resistant
of Arizona, New Mexico, and West Texas, and its cold house. Plant against buildings, walls, and large rocks to browsing deer and rabbits. Presently, there is only one
hardiness varies. that hold heat to moderate the effects of increased cultivar, ‘Dark Blue’ (pictured), which was selected for its
cold at higher elevations. A tough, long-lived perennial, especially dark blue flowers.
cobweb spiderwort is evergreen in mild winter climates
and deciduous in Zones 6 and 7.
WOOD LILY REGIONAL EXPERT

Lilium philadelphicum
ZONES: 4–8
CONDITIONS: Full to partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
Large orange-red, purple-spotted flowers adorn this lily
in early summer. A beautiful native wildflower, wood lily
is a fine choice for woodland plantings and on the north
and east sides of buildings where moister, cooler soil
conditions are to its liking. When the plant is happy, the
number of blooming stems will increase each year as its David Salman, founder of
bulbs multiply belowground. Though widely distributed High Country Gardens in Santa
across much of North America, the plant is regionally Fe, New Mexico, has spent
variable. Be sure to pick nursery-grown, western forms more than 30 years practicing
of the plant so that it will be better adapted to Southwest- low-water landscaping and
ern growing conditions. introducing improved plants
for the western United States
and beyond.
SOUTHERN PLAINS
GIANT LEOPARD PLANT CHINESE WILD GINGER GOLD DUST JAPANESE LAUREL
Farfugium japonicum ‘Giganteum’ Asarum splendens Aucuba japonica ‘Variegata’
(syn. Ligularia tussilaginea ‘Giganteum’) ZONES: 6–9 ZONES: 6–10
ZONES: 7–10 SIZE: 8 inches tall and 12 inches wide SIZE: Up to 10 feet tall and 5 to 7 feet wide
SIZE: 20 inches tall and 3 feet wide CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; neutral to alkaline soil CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; well-drained soil
Photos, clockwise from top left: Steve Aitken; Michelle Gervais; David Cavagnaro; courtesy of Dave Forehand; Michelle Gervais
CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; moist, well-drained, It always seems that when it comes to evergreen ground Gold dust Japanese laurel will brighten the darkest
neutral to alkaline soil covers in the Southern Plains, choices are limited to a areas of your shaded gardens. Native to Asia, it can
Native to Asia, this species grows along stream beds few tried-and-true species. Here is a great addition to be pruned and shaped with no concern for the plant.
and moist areas. The common name, leopard plant, that list: Chinese wild ginger. This plant has beautiful Left alone, it can grow large. The yellow variegation
comes from the fact that some cultivars have yellow dark green, mottled leaves that make you think they sprinkled across dark green, shiny leaves will make this
spots of variegation on the leaves. The variegated are cut from green marble. The rhizomatous plants plant a focal point. It can tolerate extreme temperatures
cultivars are used to brighten deep shade areas. What spread quickly to fill a large area with low-level foliage. and is basically drought-proof. Female plants will have
makes ‘Giganteum’ so appealing is the huge, glossy Chinese wild ginger is cold hardy to single digits and fruit if a male plant is nearby. This plant is known to be
green leaves, up to 15 inches across. This plant can doesn’t seem to notice the ovenlike temperatures of easy to root. Take a cutting and stick it in a vase with
grow in shade, giving the appearance of coolness on July and August. water, and roots will form quickly.
the hottest days of our Southern Plains summers. In
fall, it produces large spikes of bright yellow flowers.
SPREADING JAPANESE PLUM YEW

Cephalotaxus harringtonia ‘Prostrata’ REGIONAL EXPERT
ZONES: 5–9
SIZE: 2 to 3 feet tall and 3 to 5 feet wide
well-drained soil
Japanese plum yews are great in the Southern
Plains because of the predominantly alkaline soils
and the small number of conifers that will grow
in the region. ‘Prostrata’ is a low-growing cultivar
that is tolerant of deep shade, heat, and drought. It
makes an excellent low hedge and works well for Dave Forehand is vice
filling in under trees or massed on the shady side of president of gardens at
buildings. If you are looking for a problem-free, low- the Dallas Arboretum and
growing evergreen shrub for your deepest shade Botanical Garden.
areas, you can’t go wrong with this plant.

NORTHERN PLAINS
‘OTHELLO’ LIGULARIA ‘BENI-KAZE’ JAPANESE FOREST GRASS ‘FIRE ISLAND’ HOSTA

Ligularia dentata ‘Othello’ Hakonechloa macra ‘Beni-kaze’ Hosta ‘Fire Island’
ZONES: 3–9 ZONE: 5–9 ZONES: 3–9
SIZE: 2 to 3 feet tall and 18 to 24 inches wide SIZE: 18 inches tall and 2 to 3 feet wide SIZE: 10 to 14 inches tall and 15 to 30 inches wide
CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; rich, moist soil CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; moist, well-drained soil CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; well-drained soil
“Bold” and “beautiful” are two words that describe In Japanese, beni-kaze means “red wind,” which is a Among the huge Hosta genus, few new introductions
every patch of ‘Othello’ ligularia I’ve ever seen. This perfect fit for this soft, flowing mound of ornamental stand out like ‘Fire Island’. Relatively small, this hosta
imposing, clump-forming perennial features large, grass. Its thin, green leaf blades resemble bamboo, boasts brilliant yellow new growth with red petioles.
thick, heart-shaped leaves that are dark green on top and on a breezy day, they add lots of movement to As the rippled foliage matures, its color deepens to
and purple underneath. It thrives in massed plantings a shady bed. In late summer, the leaves develop red chartreuse. Lavender flowers extend over the mound
along wetlands, streams, or boggy areas. While it can stripes similar to ‘Shenandoah’ switchgrass (Panicum in midsummer, attracting hummingbirds and bees. This
tolerate full sun in extremely moist conditions, it prefers virgatum ‘Shenandoah’, Zones 5–9). By the time that plant requires virtually no maintenance; just watch for
the cool soil provided by partial to full shade. Some leaf autumn is in full swing, this plant is a vibrant blend of slugs or snails, which love to munch on the leaves. All
wilt may occur during the heat of summer, regardless yellow, orange, and red. hostas can be cut back after the first hard frost to tidy
of soil moisture, but it’s nothing to be concerned about. up your garden. Or you can leave the foliage in place all
In midsummer, yellowish gold daisylike flowers rise winter to insulate the crown of the plant, and do your
above the plant to brighten the shade. Beware of slugs cleanup in early spring.
Photos, except where noted: Bill Johnson. Photo bottom right: courtesy of Meghan Steen.
and snails, which are often attracted to the foliage.
‘GRO-LOW’ FRAGRANT SUMAC

Rhus aromatica ‘Gro-Low’
REGIONAL EXPERT
ZONES: 3–9
SIZE: 18 to 24 inches tall and 6 to 8 feet wide
CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained
soil
This cultivar of sumac is a dense, low-growing shrub
that rambles through the landscape by root suckers,
making it a great choice for erosion control or ground
cover for difficult, dry, shady sites. Its medium green
leaves resemble those of poison ivy; however, no part
of this shrub is poisonous. In fact, ‘Gro-Low’ turns Meghan Steen is the
attractive shades of red and orange in fall, rivaling any lead designer for FineLine
burning bush (Euonymus alatus, Zones 4–9). Small, Design in Lee’s Summit,
inconspicuous yellow flowers appear in spring and Missouri.
give way to large, hairy, red berries in late summer.
These berries may persist into winter and are edible to
wildlife. Requiring little to no maintenance, this shrub
is an excellent selection for woodland areas or slopes.
| R E G I O NAL PI CKS: B OLD PLA N TS F OR SHA DE |
MIDWEST
Photos, clockwise from top left: Fiona McLeod/gapphotos.com; millettephotomedia.com; H. Zell/courtesy of commons.wikimedia.org; courtesy of Brent Horvath; millettephotomedia.com
‘HORATIO’ GOATSBEARD ‘SUPERBA’ ASTILBE AZURE MONKSHOOD
Aruncus ‘Horatio’ Astilbe chinensis var. taquetii ‘Superba’ Aconitum carmichaelii
SIZE: 2 to 3 feet tall and wide SIZE: 4 feet tall and 18 to 24 inches wide SIZE: 5 to 6 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide
CONDITIONS: Partial shade; moist soil CONDITIONS: Partial shade; moist soil CONDITIONS: Partial shade; well-drained soil
‘Horatio’ goatsbeard is quite adaptable, tolerating While astilbes are primarily thought of as shade plants, Azure monkshood is a favorite of mine for many reasons.
nearly full sun to nearly full shade if given the proper with regular irrigation or constantly moist soil they can First, its towering height makes it an undeniable focal
soil conditions. This statuesque plant has deeper green also take some sun. The variety ‘Superba’ is one of the point. Second, it is blue, and almost everybody likes
leaves than other varieties, and it tends to be bushier, best due to its huge pink flower spikes that look like blue (a somewhat rare shade in the garden). Third,
with a more reserved size in the garden. Its foliage is cotton candy. The mid- to late-summer blooms can be it blooms right around my birthday in early autumn,
crinkled with great texture and at times exhibits some up to 3 to 4 feet tall. This astilbe combines well with which, in my opinion, is the best time of the year.
bronze highlights. Creamy, white-fringed flowers stand other late-blooming plants, such as swamp milkweed Hooded cobalt blue flowers appear in thick, pointed
atop 4-foot stems in summer and have a sweet fragrance. (Asclepias incarnata, Zones 3–6) and ‘Glenda’ Joe Pye clusters throughout fall. The foliage is dark green with
The blossom stems are cinnamon brown and remain weed (Eutrochium maculatum ‘Glenda’, Zones 3–8). an interesting, coarse texture, and it can change to a
upright for much of the winter. golden yellow as the temperatures get cooler. This plant
is also deer resistant, since it’s poisonous. Given that,
you should always wear gloves when handling it. Azure
monkshood is like a delphinium (Delphinium spp. and
cvs., Zones 3–7) that takes shade.
GOLDIE’S WOOD FERN
Dryopteris goldiana
ZONES: 3–8
SIZE: 4 feet tall and 2 feet wide REGIONAL EXPERT
rich soil
This notable fern is not widely grown, yet it
deserves more use. The leathery fronds are not
actually gold but a matte to semigloss light shade
of green. Its size is what most impresses me; once
established, it reaches nearly 4 feet tall. Goldie’s
wood fern can spread by rhizomes over time, but
it doesn’t get aggressive. Due to its color, texture,
and size, it’s easy to pair with many other shade Brent Horvath owns Intrinsic
plants, including an array of hostas (Hosta spp. Perennial Gardens in Hebron,
and cvs., Zones 3–9) and other ferns. Illinois, which develops new
plants.

SOUTH
HIDDEN GINGER ‘SHISHIGASHIRA’ CAMELLIA KONJAC VOODOO LILY

Curcuma aurantiaca Camellia hiemalis ‘Shishigashira’ Amorphophallus konjac
Photos, clockwise from top left: Bill Johnson; courtesy of Monrovia; Joshua McCullough; courtesy of Susan L. Capley; Joshua McCullough

SIZE: 1 to 2 feet tall and wide SIZE: 3 to 5 feet tall and 3 to 6 feet wide SIZE: 3 to 6 feet tall and 7 feet wide
CONDITIONS: Partial shade; moist, well-drained soil CONDITIONS: Partial shade; moist, well-drained soil CONDITIONS: Partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
The blooms of this plant emerge before the leaves; once You will find this old-school camellia in many Southern Konjac voodoo lily is a tuberous aroid that is related to
the leaves unfold, the flower is hidden, giving it the gardens. Often called dwarf sasanqua, it is smaller the famous corpse flower (Amorphophallus titanum,
name hidden ginger. New varieties and crosses have and more compact than sasanqua camellia (Camellia Zone 11), which has one of the biggest flowers in the
improved blooms to stand above the leaves, making a sasanqua, Zones 7–9), so ‘Shishigashira’ can be planted world. Though smaller, Konjac still has a lot to offer
big splash of color in the shade garden. Hidden ginger in small gardens, courtyards, or containers. Its glossy with its beautiful speckled petiole (stalk) and its 6-inch
is easily grown by rhizomes, producing many large, evergreen leaves look luxurious year-round. From Octo- vase-shaped bloom (spathe). Oh, and the smell! That
beautiful flowers that last several months. If your ground ber until January, its bright pink, 2- to 3-inch blooms dead-mouse smell is necessary to attract flies and lasts
freezes frequently in winter, grow it in a container, or lift stand out when not much else is blooming in shade. only a few weeks until the flower is pollinated. After
rhizomes from the garden and overwinter them in a dry It’s important to keep this plant watered when it is first blooming, the beautiful, deeply lobed tropical leaves
area. Hidden ginger goes dormant in winter, giving you planted and during any dry periods in summer. This emerge, followed by a vibrant red seed head. Plant in
something to look forward to in spring. acid-loving camellia is prone to iron deficiency if the well-drained soil with some protection in winter. Where
soil pH rises above 7. the ground freezes frequently, it’s best to showcase this
plant in a pot or dig up its tubers and store them in a
dry place until spring.
BLUE RABBIT’S FOOT FERN

Phlebodium pseudoaureum REGIONAL EXPERT
ZONES: 8–10
CONDITIONS: Full to partial shade; moist, well-
drained soil
It’s easy to be enamored with every character-
istic of this fern, from its mitten-shaped fronds
and beautiful red-haired surface rhizomes to its
fantastic blue color. The more water it gets, the
better it grows, so irrigation is essential in drier
climates. Use this fern in a well-drained garden Susan L. Capley is education
bed, or grow it in a container as a specimen in director at the New Orleans
your shade garden. If you live in an apartment, Botanical Garden.
consider adding it to your houseplant collection;
it grows beautifully indoors.
NORTHEAST
‘BRITT-MARIE CRAWFORD’ LIGULARIA UMBRELLA PLANT YELLOW WAX-BELLS

Ligularia dentata ‘Britt-Marie Crawford’ Darmera peltata Kirengeshoma palmata
SIZE: 3 to 4 feet tall and wide SIZE: 2 to 4 feet tall and 3 to 5 feet wide SIZE: 3 to 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide
CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; consistently CONDITIONS: Full to partial shade; consistently moist soil CONDITIONS: Full to partial shade; rich soil
moist soil
Photos, clockwise from top left: Michelle Gervais (2); millettephotomedia.com; courtesy of Peter van Berkum; Joshua McCullough
This northwestern U.S. native starts the season sending This Japanese native has an upright growth habit; large,
Here is a plant with large glossy, dark chocolate-red up its flowers before the leaves. The flowers present maplelike leaves; and wonderful fall flowers. The leaves
leaves that hold their color all summer. The tops of an odd sort of beauty; stiff bare stems hold light pink make a nice shape echo when it is planted under maple
the leaves are purple too, unlike the older cultivars of flowers. Then comes the fantastic foliage. The glossy, trees. We’ve seen this plant used well in large masses,
L. dentata. It was originally found in Scotland by Britt- large leaves, 8 to 12 inches across, are cupped, so the but it usually is grown as a specimen for the shade.
Marie Crawford in a patch of ‘Othello’ (L. dentata upright ones hold water. Sited in moist soil, this will It does well with a slightly protected site. In our New
‘Othello’, Zones 3–9). Its bright, golden-orange flowers grow into a large plant. Though it usually is grown in Hampshire garden, yellow wax-bells bloom in Septem-
on dark stems create beautiful contrast in summer. shade, the best-looking umbrella plant I ever saw was ber and October. The nodding flowers are bell-shaped,
This plant will grow in partial shade, or in full sun in our in full sun, surrounded by white stones; the soil under it and the petals are very thick, waxy, and come out in a
northern climate, but it appreciates a bit of afternoon must have been great. The seeds of umbrella plant are sort of whorl. After the petals drop, the fruit puts on a
shade. Rich soil will help it reach its full potential. smaller than a grain of salt. If you are trying to collect show of its own. Sometimes called “the Stephen King
seeds and miss them in the pod, you can usually find fruit,” it has three weird horns coming from it, giving it
them in the leaves below. a bit of a horror-show feel.
‘BRONZE FORM’ RODGERSIA

Rodgersia podophylla ‘Bronze Form’ REGIONAL EXPERT
ZONES: 4–8
SIZE: 3 to 4 feet tall and 3 to 5 feet wide
CONDITIONS: Full to partial shade; rich, moist soil
There are many species of rodgersia; they can be
hard to tell apart, and they will interbreed. A few
years ago we got the cultivar ‘Bronze Form’—what
a beauty. In spring, when the foliage is emerging, it
is a rich purple. As the season progresses, the huge
(over 1 foot across) deeply palmate leaves have a
tropical feel. They green out a bit but hold their dis- Peter van Berkum and his
tinct purple hue. This plant can fill large spaces, but it wife, Leslie, own Van Berkum
is not invasive, just mounding. Like many bold-leaved Nursery, a wholesale grower
plants, it needs a lot of moisture. This species is from in Deerfield, New Hampshire.
Korea and the island of Honshu in Japan. The summer
flowers are astilbe-like panicles that hover attractively
over the foliage.

PRONUNCIATION GUIDE
Here is a handy guide to help you pronounce the botanical names in this issue.
A–C
Abies koreana (AY-bees kor-ee-AY-nah), p. 53
Acer circinatum (AY-sir sir-sin-AY-tum), p. 94
Acer japonicum (AY-sir jah-PON-ih-kum), p. 66
Acer palmatum (AY-sir pal-MAY-tum), pp. 66, 69, 78,
82, 85, 83, 96
Acer shirasawanum (AY-sir sheer-ah-sah-WAHN-um),
p. 66
Acer triflorum (AY-sir try-FLOOR-um), p. 84
Aconitum carmichaelii (ak-on-EYE-tum kar-my-KEE-
lee-eye), p. 104
Aechmea chantinii (eck-ME-ah chan-TIN-ee-eye),
p. 91
Aechmea weilbachii (eck-ME-ah way-ell-BACK-ee-
eye), p. 86
Ajuga (ah-JEW-gah), p. 16
Ajuga incisa (ah-JEW-gah in-SY-sah), p. 22
Ajuga reptans (ah-JEW-gah REP-tanz), pp. 16, 22, 99
Alocasia (al-oh-KAY-shah), p. 71
Alpinia zerumbet (al-PIN-ee-ah ZAIR-um-bet), p. 88
Amorphophallus konjac (ah-more-fo-FAL-us KONE-
jak), p. 105
Amorphophallus titanum (ah-more-fo-FAL-us tie-TAY-
num), p. 105
Amsonia hubrichtii (am-SO-nee-ah hew-BRIK-tee-
eye), p. 78
Angelonia angustifolia (an-jel-OH-nee-ah an-gus-tih-
FOE-lee-ah), pp. 82, 84
Aralia cordata (ah-RAY-lee-ah core-DAY-tah), p. 89
Arisaema triphyllum (air-ih-SEE-mah try-FIL-um), p. 85
Aruncus (ah-RUN-kus), p. 104
Asarum europaeum (ah-SAR-um yur-oh-PAY-um),
p. 111
Asarum maximum (ah-SAR-um MAKS-ih-mum), p. 42
Asarum splendens (ah-SAR-um SPLEN-denz), p. 102
Asclepias incarnata (ah-SKLEE-pee-us in-car-NAY-
tah), p. 104
Asparagus retrofractus (ah-SPARE-ah-gus rech-ro-
FRAK-tuss), p. 89
Asparagus setaceus (ah-SPARE-ah-gus set-AY-see-
us), p. 90 COLOCASIA
Asplenium nidus (ah-SPLEEN-ee-um NID-us), p. 90
Astilbe (ah-STILL-bee), pp. 34, 99
Astilbe chinensis var. taquetii (ah-STILL-bee chin-EN- Cardiocrinum giganteum (car-dee-oh-CRY-num jie-
Cryptomeria japonica (krip-toe-MARE-ee-ah jah-PON-
sis variety tah-KWET-ee-eye), p. 104 GAN-tee-um), p. 100
ih-kah), p. 76
Athyrium niponicum var. pictum (ah-THEER-ee-um Carex (KARE-eks), p. 74
Curcuma aurantiaca (kur-KOO-mah or-an-tee-AY-kah),
nih-PON-ih-kum variety PIK-tum), pp. 82, 85 Carex morrowii (KARE-eks mor-OH-ee-eye), p. 74
p. 105
Aucuba japonica (ah-KEW-bah jah-PON-ih-kah), p. 102 Carex siderosticha (KARE-eks sid-er-oh-STIK-ah),
Austroblechnum penna-marina (aw-stroh-BLEK-num p. 22
D–F
PEN-ah-mah-REE-nah), p. 83 Caulophyllum thalictroides (kawl-oh-FIL-lum thah-lik-
Begonia (bah-GO-nyah), pp. 84, 86, 90, 91, 111 TROY-deez), p. 43 Dahlia (DAL-ee-ah), p. 71
Berberis verruculosa (BER-ber-iss ver-ruck-yew-LOE- Cephalotaxus harringtonia (sef-ah-lo-TAKS-us hair- Daphne odora (DAF-nee OH-dor-ah), p. 85
sah), p. 85 ing-TOE-nee-ah), p. 102 Darmera peltata (dar-MARE-ah pel-TAY-tah), pp. 97,
Bergenia (ber-GEEN-ee-ah), p. 98 Cercidiphyllum japonicum (sir-sid-ih-FIL-um jah-PON- 106
Betula pendula (BET-choo-lah PEN-dew-lah), p. 78 ih-kum), p. 83 Deinanthe bifida (dee-in-AN-thee BIF-ih-dah), p. 44
Blechnum penna-marina (BLEK-num PEN-ah-mah- Chamaecyparis obtusa (kam-ah-SIP-ar-iss ob-TOO- Delphinium (del-FIN-ee-um), p. 104
REE-nah), p. 98 sah), p. 53 Dichondra argentea (dy-KON-drah ar-JEN-tee-ah), p. 91
Brassica oleracea (BRASS-ih-kah oh-ler-AY-see-ah), Chamaecyparis pisifera (kam-ah-SIP-ar-iss pih-SIF- Disporum longistylum (DISS-poor-um lon-jih-STY-lum),
p. 82 er-ah), p. 50 p. 41
Brunnera macrophylla (BRUN-er-ah mak-roe-FIL-ah), Chrysogonum virginianum (kris-SOG-oh-num ver-jin- Disporum sessile (DISS-poor-um SESS-sil-lee), p. 25
pp. 21, 74, 83, 84, 99 ee-AY-num), p. 45 Disporum smilacinum (DISS-poor-um smy-la-SEE-
Caladium (kah-LAY-dee-um BY-kul-or), p. 86 Cissus alata (SIS-us ah-LAY-tah), p. 86 num), p. 25
Camellia hiemalis (ka-MEE-lee-ah high-EM-al-iss), Cissus discolor (SIS-us DIS-kul-or), p. 89 Dryopteris erythrosora (dry-OP-ter-iss er-ith-roe-SOR-
p. 105 Colocasia (kol-oh-KAY-shah), p. 71 ah), p. 99
Camellia sasanqua (ka-MEE-lee-ah sah-SAN-kwah), Colocasia esculenta (kol-oh-KAY-shah ess-kew-LEN- Dryopteris goldiana (dry-OP-ter-iss gold-ee-AY-nah),
p. 105 tah), pp. 88, 91 p. 104
PRONUNCIATION GUIDE continued from page 107
HAKONECHLOA
Photos: Michelle Gervais (p. 107; p. 109, right); Steve Aitken (p. 108, left); Stephanie Fagan (p. 108, right, top and bottom); Jennifer Benner (p. 109, left)
DAHLIA
Dryopteris wallichiana (dry-OP-ter-iss wal-lik-ee-AY- G–I

nah), p. 85
Enkianthus campanulatus (en-kee-AN-thus cam-pan- Gillenia trifoliata (gil-EN-ee-ah try-foe-lee-AY-tah),
yew-LATE-us), p. 27 p. 42
Ensete (en-SET-ay), p. 71 Hakonechloa macra (hak-on-eh-KLO-ah MAK-rah),
Ensete ventricosum (en-SET-ay ven-trih-KOE-sum), pp. 67, 68, 74, 76, 82, 83, 84, 85, 98, 103
p. 68 Hamamelis virginiana (ham-ah-MAY-lis ver-jin-ee-AY-
Epimedium (ep-ih-MEE-dee-um), pp. 32, 34, 35, 83 nah), pp. 27, 28
Epimedium brevicornu (ep-ih-MEE-dee-um brev-ih- Helleborus argutifolius (heh-LEB-or-us ar-goo-tih-FOE-
COR-new), pp. 37, 39 lee-us), p. 21
Epimedium grandiflorum (ep-ih-MEE-dee-um gran- Heuchera (HEW-ker-ah), pp. 83, 85, 90 LILIUM
dih-FLOOR-um), pp. 35, 38, 39 Heuchera villosa (HEW-ker-ah vih-LOW-sah), p. 74
Epimedium pinnatum subsp. colchicum (ep-ih-MEE- Homalocladium platycladum (ho-mal-o-CLAD-ee-um
dee-um pie-NAY-tum subspecies COLE-chik-um), plat-ee-CLAD-um), p. 88
p. 36 Hosta (HOSS-tah), pp. 68, 74, 76, 82, 83, 84, 85, 103, Lamium maculatum (LAY-mee-um mak-yew-LAY-
Epimedium sempervirens (ep-ih-MEE-dee-um sem- 104 tum), p. 83
per-VEER-enz), p. 36 Hydrangea (hy-DRAIN-jah), pp. 83, 85 Leucosceptrum stellipilum (lew-coe-SEP-trum stell-
Epimedium wushanense (ep-ih-MEE-dee-um woo- Hydrangea macrophylla (hy-DRAIN-jah mak-roe-FIL- ah-PILL-um), p. 23
shan-EN-see), p. 100 ah), pp. 28, 82, 84 Leucothoe fontanesiana (loo-KOE-thoe-ee fon-tah-
Epimedium × youngianum (ep-ih-MEE-dee-um ex Hydrangea petiolaris (hy-DRAIN-jah pet-ee-oh-LAR- nee-see-AY-nah), p. 24
yung-ee-AY-num), p. 74 iss), p. 68 Ligularia dentata (lig-yew-LAR-ee-ah den-TAY-tah),
Epiphyllum oxypetalum (ep-ih-FILL-um ox-ee-pet-ah- Hydrangea serrata (hy-DRAIN-jah ser-AY-tah), pp. 28, pp. 103, 106
lum), p. 88 30 Ligularia stenocephala (lig-yew-LAR-ee-ah sten-oh-
Eucryphia lucida (yew-KRIF-ee-ah LOO-sid-ah), p. 81 Hypoestes (hy-po-ES-tess), p. 84 SEF-ah-lah), p. 84
Euonymus alatus (yew-ON-ih-mus ah-LAY-tus), p. 103 Illicium floridanum (il-ISS-ee-um floor-ih-DAY-num), Ligularia tussilaginea (lig-yew-LAR-ee-ah tuss-il-ah-
Eutrochium maculatum (yew-TROE-kee-um mak-yew- p. 14 JIN-ee-ah), p. 102
LAY-tum), p. 104 Illicium henryi (il-ISS-ee-um HEN-ree-eye), p. 14 Lilium philadelphicum (LIL-ee-um fill-ah-DEL-fih-kum),
Eutrochium purpureum (yew-TROE-kee-um pur-pur- Impatiens walleriana (im-PAY-shenz wall-err-ee-AY- p. 101
EE-um), p. 96 nah), p. 84 Liriodendron tulipifera (leer-ee-oh-DEN-dron tew-lip-
Farfugium japonicum (far-FOO-jee-um jah-PON-ih- Indigofera decora (in-dih-GO-fer-ah day-KOR-ah), IF-er-ah), p. 48
kum), p. 102 p. 78 Liriope (lih-RY-oh-pee), p. 99
Fothergilla gardenii (fah-ther-GILL-ah gar-DEN-ee- Liriope muscari (lih-RY-oh-pee muss-KAR-ee),
eye), p. 31 K–M pp. 16, 78
Fothergilla × intermedia (fah-ther-GILL-ah ex in-ter- Lonicera nitida (lon-ISS-er-ah NIT-ih-dah), p. 76
Kerria japonica (KARE-ee-ah jah-PON-ih-kah), p. 29
MEE-dee-ah), p. 15 Microbiota decussata (my-kro-by-OH-tah day-kus-AY-
Kirengeshoma palmata (kih-ren-gesh-OH-mah palm-
Fuchsia (FEW-shah), pp. 78, 85 tah), p. 83
AY-tah), pp. 84, 88, 106

HYDRANGEA PLECTRANTHUS
Mukdenia rossii (muk-DEE-nee-ah ROSS-ee-eye), Porteranthus trifoliatus (por-ter-AN-thus try-foe-lee- Soleirolia soleirolii (so-li-RO-lee-ah so-li-RO-lee-eye),
p. 99 AY-tus), p. 42 p. 96
Musa (MOO-sah), p. 71 Pseudopanax laetus (soo-doe-PAN-aks LAY-tus), p. 83 Stachys coccinea (STAK-iss kok-SIN-ee-ah), p. 101
Pseudotsuga menziesii (soo-doe-SOO-gah men-ZEEZ- Stachyurus praecox (stak-ih-YUR-us PRAY-koks), p. 31
N–P ee-eye), pp. 83, 94 Strobilanthes dyerianus (stroe-bih-LAN-theez dy-err-
Pulmonaria (pull-mon-AR-ee-ah), p. 12 ee-AY-nus), p. 71
Neoregelia (nee-oh-ree-GEE-lee-ah), p. 89
Pulmonaria longifolia (pull-mon-AR-ee-ah lon-jih-FOE- Symphytum × uplandicum (sim-FY-tum ex up-LAND-
Ophiopogon formosanum (oh-fee-oh-POE-gon for-
lee-ah), p. 12 ih-kum), p. 81
mose-AY-num), p. 99
Syneilesis palmata (sin-eel-EE-sis palm-AY-tah), p. 24
Ophiopogon planiscapus (oh-fee-oh-POE-gon plan-iss-
Q–S
KAP-us), p. 98
T–X
Orixa japonica (or-ICK-sah jah-PON-ih-kah), p. 28 Quercus macrocarpa (KWER-kus mak-roe-KAR-pah),
Pachysandra axillaris (pak-ih-SAN-drah aks-ih-LAR- p. 83 Taxus cuspidata (TAKS-us kus-pih-DAY-tah), p. 48
iss), p. 83 Rhododendron (roe-doe-DEN-dron), pp. 83, 96 Thalictrum (thah-LIK-trum), pp. 43, 98
Pachysandra procumbens (pak-ih-SAN-drah pro-KUM- Rhododendron prunifolium (roe-doe-DEN-dron prew- Thalictrum rochebruneanum (thah-LIK-trum roesh-
benz), p. 16 nih-FOE-lee-um), p. 30 broo-nee-AY-num), p. 84
Paeonia suffruticosa (pay-OH-nee-ah soo-froo-tih- Rhus aromatica (ROOSE air-oh-MAT-ih-kah), p. 103 Thuja plicata (THOO-yah plih-KAY-tah), pp. 78, 94
KOE-sah), p. 68 Rhus typhina (ROOSE ty-FEE-nah), p. 78 Thujopsis dolabrata (thew-OP-sis DOLE-ah-bray-tah),
Panicum virgatum (PAN-ih-kum ver-GAY-tum), p. 103 Rodgersia podophylla (rod-JER-zee-ah poe-doe-FIL- p. 50
Perilla frutescens (per-IL-ah frew-TES-enz), pp. 76, 78 ah), p. 106 Tibouchina grandiflora (tib-oo-CHEE-nah gran-dih-
Persicaria virginiana (per-sih-KAR-ee-ah ver-jin-ee- Rumex sanguineus (ROO-meks san-GWIN-ee-us), FLOOR-ah), p. 86
AY-nah), p. 76 p. 111 Tillandsia usneoides (till-AND-see-ah us-nee-OY-
Philadelphus coronarius (fil-ah-DEL-fus kor-on-AR-ee- Salvia arizonica (SAL-vee-ah air-ih-ZON-ih-kah), deez), p. 90
us), p. 13 p. 101 Torenia (toe-REE-nee-ah), p. 84
Philodendron selloum (fil-oh-DEN-dron sell-OH-um), Sciadopitys verticillata (sy-ah-DOP-it-iss ver-tiss-ill- Tradescantia (trad-es-KAN-tee-ah), p. 84
p. 89 AY-tah), p. 52 Tradescantia sillamontana (trad-es-KAN-tee-ah sil-ah-
Phlebodium aureum (fleh-BODE-ee-um OR-ee-um), Sedum ternatum (SEE-dum ter-NAY-tum), p. 83 mon-TAN-ah), p. 101
p. 90 Selaginella braunii (sel-aj-in-EL-ah BRAWN-ee-eye), Tsuga canadensis (SOO-gah kan-ah-DEN-sis), p. 50
Phlebodium pseudoaureum (fleh-BODE-ee-um soo- p. 74 Vinca minor (VIN-kah MY-nor), p. 16
doe-OR-ee-um), p. 105 Selaginella kraussiana (sel-aj-in-EL-ah kraus-ee-AY- Woodwardia unigemmata (wood-WARD-ee-ah yew-
Pinus densiflora (PY-nus den-sih-FLOOR-ah), p. 53 nah), p. 83 nee-jem-AH-tah), p. 100
Plectranthus argentatus (plek-TRAN-thus ar-jen-TAY- Sempervivum (sem-per-VEE-vum), p. 16 Xanthosoma (zanth-oh-SO-mah), p. 71
tus), p. 91
Plectranthus scutellarioides (plek-TRAN-thus skoot-el-
ar-ee-OY-deez), pp. 68, 71, 78, 84
Podophyllum (poe-doe-FIL-um), p. 43
Podophyllum delavayi (poe-doe-FIL-um del-ah-VAY- INVASIVE ALERT
eye), p. 100
Podophyllum peltatum (poe-doe-FIL-um pel-TAY-tum),
The following plants recommended in this issue are considered invasive in some areas of the country.
p. 45
For more information, please visit invasiveplantatlas.org.
Podophyllum pleianthum (poe-doe-FIL-um plee-AN-
thum), p. 45 NAME STATES PAGES
Polygonatum (pol-ig-on-AY-tum), p. 41 Colocasia esculenta AL, CA, FL 88, 91
Polygonatum odoratum (pol-ig-on-AY-tum oh-dor-AY-
tum), pp. 25, 43 Perilla frutescens TN, VA, WV 76, 78
Polygonatum odoratum var. pluriflorum (pol-ig-on-AY- Vinca minor AL, DE, GA, IN, KY, OR, PA, SC, TN, VA 16
tum oh-dor-AY-tum variety plure-ih-FLOOR-um), p. 17
THE USDA PLANT HARDINESS ZONE MAP
The zones stated in Fine Gardening are based on several sources and should be treated as general guidelines when
selecting plants for your garden. Many other factors may come into play in determining healthy plant growth. Micro-
climates, wind, soil type, soil moisture, humidity, snow, and winter sunshine may greatly affect the adaptability of plants.
For more information and to zoom in on your area, visit the map online at https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov.
Average Annual Extreme

Minimum Temperature, 1976–2005
Temp (°F) Zone Temp (°C)
-60 to -55 1a -51.1 to -48.3
-55 to -50 1b -48.3 to -45.6
-50 to -45 2a -45.6 to -42.8
-45 to -40 2b -42.8 to -40
-40 to -35 3a -40 to -37.2
-35 to -30 3b -37.2 to -34.4
-30 to -25 4a -34.4 to -31.7
-25 to -20 4b -31.7 to -28.9
-20 to -15 5a -28.9 to -26.1
-15 to -10 5b -26.1 to -23.3
-10 to -5 6a -23.3 to -20.6
Illustration: courtesy of the Agricultural Research Service, USDA

-5 to 0 6b -20.6 to -17.8
0 to 5 7a -17.8 to -15
5 to 10 7b -15 to -12.2 PUERTO RICO
10 to 15 8a -12.2 to -9.4 ALASKA
15 to 20 8b -9.4 to -6.7
20 to 25 9a -6.7 to -3.9
25 to 30 9b -3.9 to -1.1
HAWAII
30 to 35 10a -1.1 to 1.7
35 to 40 10b 1.7 to 4.4
40 to 45 11a 4.4 to 7.2
45 to 50 11b 7.2 to 10
50 to 55 12a 10 to 12.8
55 to 60 12b 12.8 to 15.6
60 to 65 13a 15.6 to 18.3
65 to 70 13b 18.3 to 21.1

1
3
2
CAPTIVATING
COMBINATION
1. Bloody dock (Rumex sanguineus,
Zones 6–8)
2. European wild ginger (Asarum
europaeum, Zones 4–8)
3. ‘Chicago Fire’ rex begonia (Begonia
‘Chicago Fire’, Zones 10–12)
CONDITIONS
Partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
DESIGNED BY Cindy Young for a garden in New York.

Photo by Michelle Gervais
VICTORIAN GRAND MANOR
Virginia, USA
Discover the secret of Hartley Botanic by calling 781 933 1993 or visit www.hartley-botanic.com
HANDMADE IN ENGLAND, CHERISHED IN AMERICA

The only aluminium Glasshouses and Greenhouses endorsed by the RHS
® The Royal Horticultural Society. The Royal Horticultural Society, and its logo, are trade marks of The Royal Horticultural Society (Registered Charity No 222879/SC038262) and used under licence from RHS Enterprises Limited.

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