Every gardener has felt the defeat of bringing home a special plant only to watch it slowly wither. Which prompts these questions: Where are the low-maintenance shrubs that don’t demand a lot of pruning and the plants that don’t depend on spraying since they are disease-resistant?

They’re abundantly available, says Bruce Hegna of Portland-based Nature/Nurture Landscape Design.

“If you put the right plants in the right place initially, they should be able to survive with a little neglect, except in areas of blazing hot sun,” he says.

Some people may call these plants “foolproof.” He calls them “reliable.”

To boost your growing success, first determine the different microclimates and soils in your yard.

Some plants such as Manzanita (Arctostaphylos), Rockrose (Cistus) and California Lilac (Ceanothus) don’t like rich soil, preferring Oregon’s native clay soil but with good drainage, says Hegna.

“The secret is to mix in a 1/4″-10 crushed gravel in the planting hole rather than fluffy manure,” Hegna says. (Don’t buy gravel with “minus” in the name; the particles are too fine).

Know the amount of water that will be needed. Most new plantings require more water until they are well established, which usually takes two years, he says.

After that, “some plants resent being irrigated,” he says. “They don’t want pampering.”

The key is to group plantings with similar water and cultural needs so the irrigation zones can be set accordingly, he says.

It’s OK to venture away from easy plants to those that insist on attention. In that case, cluster the more demanding plants and annuals near the patio or backdoor where you will often see them. “You can give them a little extra squirt when they’re dry,” he says.

Xera Plants in Portland and Cistus Nursery on Sauvie Island are two of the nurseries that offer plants that are adapted to the area’s climate. Find plants at local nurseries; some links below are to online sources.

These tips are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local Extension office.

Second in a series

Plant it and forget it: Tips for enjoying lots of greenery with little effort

Portland landscaper Amy Whitworth suggests building a low-maintenance landscape around the outdoor work that appeals to you.

Here are Hegna’s recommendations of top performers that require minimal care. They do not need a significant amount of pruning and many are fairly drought tolerant.

Broadleaf evergreens

Arctostaphylos, including ‘Austin Griffiths,’ ‘Sentinel’ (Manzanita): These shrubs and small trees thrive in Oregon’s moist winters and do not flinch with dry summers (most do not like summer irrigation). They thrive in open, full-sun locations.

Varieties can have exfoliating bark or smooth, mahogany-colored bark, which is very striking if pruned to expose the branching, but this is not necessary.

Most tend to be in the five- to eight-feet-tall tree range but there are some low shrub and groundcover varieties as well. They do not want fertilization or richly amended soils.

Do not expect to find large plants at your nursery; demand is high and it is best to start with smaller plants for this shrub, says Hegna.

Xera Plants in Portland has excellent information about this native genus on its website.

Brachyglottis greyi or monroi: If you want a touch of grayish silver in your garden, Brachyglottis greyi (three feet by four feet) or monroi (three feet by three feet) can take dry, hot aspects and they push out bright yellow, daisy-like flowers in the summer.

Choisya ternata ‘Sundance’ (Golden-leaf Mexican Orange): Five feet tall and wide, this shrub is best with morning sun or light shade to avoid burning or bleaching. ‘Goldstone’ has a similar golden-green color but with feathery foliage and it only grows to be three feet tall and wide. The plain species can get to be eight feet tall and wide.

Cistus (Rockrose): ‘Snowfire’ and ‘Jenkyn Place’ have the trademark red blotch at the base of each petal. Other varieties such as ‘Blanche’ or ‘Sunset’ have solid white or pink crepe-papery petals. Check the descriptions to find the appropriate variety for your space.

This shrub does well in challenging full-sun, drier sites in the yard. It does not want overly rich soil and need good drainage.

Elaeagnus pungens ‘Maculata’ (Thorny Silverberry): 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, this shrub with a green margin yellow center prefers sun to partial shade. ‘Gilt Edge’ has a green center and a yellow edge. ‘Clemson Variegated’ has more irregular markings and seems to be one commonly available.

Hebes are known for their textural interest. Proven winners include ‘Western Hills’ (three feet by three feet) with silvery-gray, small leaves on dark stems and ‘Karo Golden Esk’ (two feet by two feet), a “whipcord”-type with upswept foliage that looks great all year.

There are many varieties of hebes with a range of foliages, including variegation. For best results in your garden, check the tags for mature size and hardiness that goes to Zone 7. Many also make wonderful container specimens.

Ilex crenata ‘Sky Pencil’ (Sky Pencil Japanese Holly) has dark green leaves that look like boxwood. This is a great shrub for narrow spots, growing to be only two to three feet wide and six to eight feet tall. This also does well in containers for vertical accents. No shearing is needed.

Lonicera nitida ‘Twiggy’ (Golden Box Honeysuckle): This deer-resistant shrub with a touch of soft gold and very small leaves will grow two to three feett tall. It’s best with morning sun or part shade.

Mahonia eurybracteata ‘Soft Caress’ (Soft Caress Mahonia): The shrub, which will grow three to four feet tall and wide, has a fine texture without the spinyness of native Mahonia. Hummingbirds love the yellow blooms. Part sun to part shade is best.

Nandina domestica (Heavenly Bamboo): This is not a true bamboo despite the name. Favorites include ‘Firepower’ (30 inches tall and wide) and ‘Sienna Sunrise’ (three to four foot tall and two feet wide) and ‘Plum Passion,’ which is a taller variety, growing from four to five feet tall and three feet wide, with finely-textured plum-red new growth.

Most nandinas have colorful new growth and usually the winter foliage color also becomes more deeply intense.

Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’ (Goshiki Variegated False Holly): The variegated leaves are similar in appearance to traditional holly leaves but are yellow-green and splashed with cream and white with new growth emerging pinkish-red.

This is a workhorse that may only need a light shaping to avoid concern about the spines. The shrub will grow four to five feet tall and wide. It can reach up to 10 feet tall after many years. It grows in full sun and in deep shade but won’t stay as dense or colorful in deep shade.

Other Osmanthus worth growing include ‘Sasaba,’ ‘Jim Porter’ and the delavayi & fragrans species.

Pittosporum tobira ‘Tall and Tough’ (Japanese Mock Orange): The shrub can reach eight feet of dense growth with dark green, round-tipped foliage and a sweet fragrance from small yellow-white flowers. It tolerates irrigation but can handle low-water situations.

‘Cream De Mint’ only reaches 2.5-feet tall and wide, and has mint-green leaves with a white edge. ‘Wheeler’s Dwarf’ is a favorite for its very tight, mounding growth. It grows three feet tall and is broadly spreading from four to five feet. It thrives in full sun or part shade.

Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary): This useful culinary herb makes a bit of pruning worthwhile. Some varieties can get to be five to six feet tall. If you’d like a smaller shrub, there’s the three-foot ‘Gorizia’, (30-inch ‘Logees Blue’ and 18-inch ‘Salem’.

There are many varieties available; check the labels to make sure they’ll be the appropriate mature size for your space or container.

Sarcococca hookeriana var. humilis (Dwarf Sweetbox): This shrub, which grows only two to 2.5 feet tall, spreading to around four feet wide, likes light to deep shade and will produce dark green, dense foliage.

An unexpected, welcome treat are the tiny white flowers in January and February, which deliver an intensely sweet fragrance from several feet away. It can take those tough, dry shade sites although it would appreciate a drink or two during dry summers.

Viburnum davidii (David Viburnum): The shrub with dark green, leathery, deeply veined leaves and pink buds that turn white, followed by small, metallic blue fruits, prefers locations with sun to part shade (avoid hot, south-facing locations). It will grow three feet tall and three to four feet wide.

Conifers

Chamaecyparis obtusa (Dwarf Hinoki Cypress): ‘Nana’ produces tightly cupped green, congested foliage that reaches only two feet tall and wide, and prefers sun to very light shade locations.

‘Nana gracilis’ has the same dense foliage, but slowly reaches eight feet tall and six feet wide.

‘Nana lutea’ is a golden yellow form that reaches four feet tall and three feet wide. Avoid hot sun or windy locations.

Chamaecyparis sempervirens ‘Swane’s Golden’: An excellent substitute for the plain green Italian Cypress, the plant with tight, golden-yellow needles may grow only two to three feet wide and up to 15 to 20 feet tall. Full sun is best for good color but it can take drier locations.

Pinus mugo (Mugo Pine): Forget those overgrown, house-swallowing Mugo Pines from your past. There are new varieties that will not overwhelm your garden and many are great for rock gardens and containers.

‘Slowmound’ has dense, dark green with showy buds and grows only two feet in 10 years but can reach four feet high and six feet wide after many years.

‘Sherwood Compact’ is dense and upright, but only grows two feet tall and wide

Taxus baccata ‘Fastigiata’ (Irish Yew): Grows eight feet tall and three to five feet wide, making it great for formal hedges or vertical accent (after many years it can reach up to 20 feet). Preferring full sun to light shade, it can take dry shade once it’s established. Warning: The bark, foliage and small red fruits are toxic and not healthy to have around children or pets.

Its slow growth means these plants are usually more expensive than other conifers. Find container-grown plants, which have better root establishment than field-grown or dug plants.

— As told to Janet Eastman | 503-294-4072

jeastman@oregonian.com | @janeteastman