Tapajós area

Itinerary

The Tapajós area (Tapajós-Xingu interfluve) comprises a variety of environments and represents one of the most interesting regions in the Amazon, featuring high bird diversity, rich endemic species, and rarities. In this birdwatching itinerary, we visit three main areas: first Sinop, a region of Amazonian semideciduous forests; then the Cachimbo Range, a complex environment composed of forests, savannas, and Campinas that divide the interfluve in half; lastly, we explore the dense forests of the Jamanxim River, where we encounter rarities from the northern part of the interfluve.

Endemics

The Gray-flanked Wren (Cyphorhinus griseolateralis) is a recently recognized species that exclusively inhabits the Tapajós area. Some birders consider its song to be the most beautiful of all birds, as it is exceptionally melodic compared to other Musician wrens. At present, we are conducting behavioral monitoring of this captivating species.

Although naturally rare, two antpittas endemic to the Tapajós area can be readily observed in some spots that we monitor: the endangered Alta Floresta Antpitta (Hylopezus whittakeri) and the Tapajos Antpitta (Myrmothera subcanescens), which is relatively understudied and challenging to photograph due to its tendency to live among the Heliconias.

The Scaled Ground-Cuckoo (Neomorphus squamiger) is a rare and elusive bird that is often referred to as the ghost of the forest. It follows army ants and peccaries, with luck it can be observed in the birding areas. The striking white eye rings announce the presence of the Bare-eyed Antbird (Rhegmatorhina gymnops) one of the most present army ant followers in the Tapajos area.

In dense forests at Tapajós, we often find these two threatened species of Hermits, restricted to the region: the Tapajos Hermit (Phaethornis aethopygus); and the Ash-bellied Hermit (Phaethornis major). These two species are very little known, and have only recently gained taxonomic recognition.

Intriguingly, a group of Brown-winged Trumpeters (Psophia dextralis) can be seen approaching on the ground with loud calls. These unique birds are known for their nomadic lifestyle within the shady confines of the forest.

A series of recent scientific studies has recognized several species of Woodcreepers endemic to the Tapajós area, they are: the d'Orbigny’s Woodcreeper (Dendrocincla atrirostris) from the Plain-brown Woodcreeper group, the Tapajos Scythebill (Campylorhamphus cardosoi) from the Curve-billed Scythebill group, the Ridgway's Woodcreeper (Dendrocolaptes ridgwayi) from the Amazonian Barred Woodcreeper group, and the Santarem Woodcreeper (Dendrocolaptes transfasciatus) from the Black-banded Woodcreeper.

The Golden-crowned Manakin

Lepidothrix vilasboasi

The Golden-crowned Manakin (Lepidothrix vilasboasi) is one of the most restricted and threatened manakins in the world. In 2023, we discovered a lek area of males in a private forest and reached an agreement with the owner to monitor the species and guide birdwatchers to observe and photograph this rarity. Before the discovery of the species, there were only 6 sightings on eBird, all made by ornithologists. This is due to the fact that its small distribution area is almost 100% covered by inaccessible areas such as conservation units, indigenous lands, and military reserves.

Helmut Sick1957

This species was initially described by the renowned ornithologist Helmut Sick in 1957, but it remained elusive until being rediscovered over 40 years later. The rarity, mysterious distribution, and resemblance to other manakins led researchers of the 20th century to hypothesize about the possibility of this bird being a hybrid. However, recent studies have confirmed that the Golden-crowned Manakin is a distinct species that remarkably originated from a hybridization event between the Snow-capped Manakin (Lepidothrix nattereri) and the Opal-crowned Manakin (Lepidothrix iris) over 180 million years ago.

More highlights

In the darkness of the Tapajós forests, suddenly a shooting star crosses the understory, it is the fantastic iridescence on the cap of an Opal-crowned Makin (Lepidothrix iris), see the pictures!

The Marbled Wood-Quail (Odontophorus gujanensis) can always be heard at the end of the day, but we need a strategy to attract and observe them, as they are the same color as the ground and flee in the face of any disturbance.

The brave Black-breasted Gnateater (Conopophaga snethlageae) is a recently validated species, it is easily found in the Tapajós forests, and calls bravely against any movement near its territory. Nearby we can find the Yellow-browed Antbird (Hypocnemis hypoxantha), the Para Foliage-gleaner (Automolus paraensis), the Dusky Sabrewing (Campylopterus obscurus), the Ruddy Spinetail (Synallaxis rutilans), the Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant (Myiornis ecaudatus) and several other understory species.

Numerous parrots and macaws can be spotted in the surrounding area, such as the stunning Crimson-bellied Parakeet (Pyrrhura perlata) and the friendly White-bellied Parrot (Pionites leucogaster), which has a distinct "green-thighed" local race. But the beauty of colors and shapes are also seen in the Black-girdled Barbet (Capito dayi) and in his distant relative the Curl-crested Aracari (Pteroglossus beauharnaisii).

Tapajós is probably the best place in the world to observe the Black-spotted Bare-eye (Phlegopsis nigromaculata), it is the leader of mixed groups of army ant followers, where they are seen alongside the Uniform Woodcreeper (Hylexetastes uniformis), the Xingu Scale-backed Antbird (Willisornis vidua), the Short-billed Leaftosser (Sclerurus rufigularis), the stunning Spot-backed Antbird (Hylophylax naevius), the Eastern White-bellied Antbird (Sciaphylax pallens).

The Tapajós area is also a great place to observe and photograph the elusive tinamous, home to several interesting species such as the Gray Tinamou (Tinamus tao), the Brazilian Tinamou (Crypturellus strigulosus) and the extremely rare Gray-bellied Tinamou (Crypturellus griseiventris).

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full list of species

The Peccaries' Puddle

In the middle of Fazenda Modelo's forest, there is a large puddle constructed over many generations by the White-lipped peccaries (Tayassu pecari). During the dry season, this is one of the few locations that retains water for the animals, becoming a strategic point for a spectacle of Amazonian wildlife observation.

Every afternoon, a flurry of birds from various species frequents the area. Antbirds, woodcreepers, tanagers, toucans, falcons, hermits, and army-ant followers are common sights. The location serves as a home to some specific birds of this environment, such as wrens, warblers, antpittas, and motmots. The zigzag heron seemingly takes up residence there.
It appears that all the birds in the forest are familiar with this puddle. Large birds like curassows, guans, tinamous, trumpeters, quail-doves, and even a young harpy eagle have descended to the ground to quench their thirst. Mammals are frequently spotted, including rare species like the bush dog and the giant armadillo. However, peccaries, coatis, anteaters, and small cats are the most frequently observed.

Primates

In the Tapajós area itinerary, we visit forests where a wide diversity of primates occurs, with many endemics. The highlight is the newly discovered Munduruku marmoset, a very beautiful species that lives in the forests of Fazenda Modelo.

Endemics:

- Munduruku marmoset (Mico munduruku)
- Emilia's marmoset (Mico emiliae)
- White-nosed saki (Chiropotes albinasus)
- Vieira's titi (Plecturocebus vieirai)
- Red-bellied titi (Plecturocebus moloch)
- Spix's red-handed howler (Alouatta discolor)
- White-cheeked spider monkey (Ateles marginatus)

Others:
- Bare-eared squirrel monkey (Saimiri ustus)
- Tufted capuchin (Sapajus apella)

Landscape

The Tapajós forests are characterized by their deep, enveloping darkness and a remarkable homogeneity, as they are primarily comprised of just two distinct forest types: the floodplain forest known as "várzea," and the non-floodable forest called "terra-firme." Within the terra-firme, however, an abundance of Heliconias in the understory dominates many areas, providing a rich and diverse habitat for countless species to thrive.

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Weather

The weather is typical lowland rainforest, the rains fall all year round, mainly in the first half, annual temperatures average between 21 and 32 °C and average precipitation between 50–380 mm.

Access logistics

The main access route is the Sinop airport (OPS), which has regular flights and is where you'll find the first birdwatching areas of this itinerary. The second point is the Serra do Cachimbo mountain range, located 300 km away on BR-163 highway. Then, 290 km ahead is Novo Progresso, the main destination of this itinerary