HOW TO GROW
PRACTICALLY
EVERYTHING
S OF GARDENING
100
PROJECTS ABSOLUTELY
ANYONE CAN DO
HOW TO GROW
PRACTICALLY
EVERYTHING
ZIA ALLAWAY
LIA LEENDERTZ
LONDON, NEW YORK, MUNICH,
MELBOURNE, DELHI
Senior Editor Zia Allaway
Senior Designer Lucy Parissi
Project Editor Caroline Reed
US Editor Jill Hamilton
Editors Chauney Dunford, Becky Shackleton
Designer Francesca Gormley
Picture Research Jenny Baskaya, Lucy Claxton
Jacket Design Duncan Turner
Production Editor Joanna Byrne
Production Controller Imogen Boase
Managing Editor Esther Ripley
Managing Art Editor Alison Donovan
Publisher Jonathan Metcalf
Art Director Bryn Walls
RHS Publisher Susannah Charlton
RHS Editor Rae Spencer-Jones
Photography Brian North, Peter Anderson
Additional text Jenny Hendy
First published in the United States in 2010 by
DK Publishing
375 Hudson Street
New York, New York 10014
10 11 12 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
176547—March 2010
Copyright © 2010 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part
of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval
system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of
both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
ISBN: 978-0-7566-3341-7
DK books are available at special discounts when purchased in bulk for sales
promotions, premiums, fund-raising, or educational use. For details, contact:
DK Publishing Special Markets, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
or SpecialSales@dk.com
Printed and bound by Star Standard, Singapore
IMPORTANT NOTICE
The author and the publishers can accept no liability for any harm,
damage, or illness arising from the use or misuse
of the plants described in this book.
Discover more at
www.dk.com
Foreword
Growing plants is easy when you know how. Most
plants will flourish with just a little help, and you don’t
need any special skills to sow seeds to create beds
brimming with flowers and vegetables, or to pot up
containers to paint your patio with color. Follow the
step-by-step guides to grow almost anything your heart
desires, from spring bulbs and easy-care shrubs in a
border, to a tiny orchard or bed filled with tasty root
crops. To make life even easier, we’ve included lots
of hints and tips to make sure that your plants thrive.
And if you need inspiration when choosing a plant
for a particular place or purpose, take a look at the
“Selections” spreads, which showcase a range of options.
The book is split into eight chapters: the first is an
introduction to plants and soil—a good starting point for
beginners before planning or planting. The following
chapters offer a feast of ideas for different areas of
the garden, fruit and vegetable plot, and your home.
There is also a chapter on water and wildlife gardening.
Browse through to see what intrigues you, and use
the quick checklists to discover how much time each
project will take, and the tools and plants you will
need. To conclude, there’s advice on garden care and
maintenance, as well as tips on keeping pests and
diseases at bay, equipping you with everything you
need to know to create a beautiful, bountiful garden.
ZIA ALLAWAY
LIA LEENDERTZ
Contents
GARDENING BASICS
8
Identify plant types
How plants grow and reproduce
Understand soil
Choose a garden style
Plan your planting
Prepare to plant
Essential tools
Seasonal planner
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
26
Create a new border
Build a decorative edge
Plant a spring border
Create a shady shrub border
Selections: Spring bulbs
Plant spring bulbs
Early summer color
Grow acid lovers
Plant a fiery border
28
32
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
Selections: Scented plants
Fragrant border
Ornamental grass bed
Make a family garden
Create a shady rockery
Selections: Plants for dry shade
Tropical retreat
Plant bare-root bamboo
Sow sunflowers and annuals
Cottage garden planting
Selections: Cottage garden plants
Prairie-style planting
Flowers for cutting and drying
Planting for texture
Gravel gardens
Selections: Mediterranean plants
Planting by a hedge
Easy-care border
Design with gabions
Grow dahlias and cannas
48
50
52
54
56
58
60
62
64
66
68
70
72
74
76
78
80
82
84
86
Selections: Dramatic dahlias
Modern mixed planting
Contemporary rose garden
Autumn border
Selections: Jewel-like berries
Simple topiary
Colorful winter border
88
90
92
94
96
98
100
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
102
Choose containers
Colorful spring bulb pots
Sow summer bedding
How to plant up pots
Selections: Foolproof seeds
Spring wallflowers
Grasses from seed
Spiky plants
Climbers in containers
Grow plants from plugs
Selections: Plants for shade
104
106
108
110
112
114
115
116
118
120
122
Plant fragrant lilies
Cottage-style containers
Exotic combinations
Plant a summer hanging basket
Selections: Summer basket plants
Containers from cast-offs
Grow succulents and alpines
Plant patio roses
Contemporary container display
Selections: Contemporary pots
Bamboos in containers
Creative topiary for planters
Pots of autumn color
Evergreen shrub display
Selections: Shrubs for pots
Patio with tiered beds
Plant a winter hanging basket
Year-on-year Christmas tree
Pots of colorful hostas
Plant a winter windowbox
124
126
128
130
132
134
136
138
140
142
144
146
148
150
152
154
156
158
160
162
Selections: Winter patio plants
Add height to container displays
Create table-top color
Plant up a roof terrace
Braid a bay tree
164
166
168
170
172
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
174
Choose a tree
176
How to plant a tree
178
Grow a tree fern
180
Make multistemmed trees
182
Selections: Trees for small spaces 184
Create a laburnum walkway
186
Grow trees from seeds
188
Grow an ornamental cherry
190
Plant an informal hedge
192
Selections: Hedge plants
194
Plant a formal hedge
196
Scented lavender hedge
198
Plant Mediterranean wall pots
200
Create a plant checkerboard
202
Selections: Plants for crevices
204
Turf a lawn
206
Seed a lawn
Plant spring bulbs in a lawn
How to plant a climber
Selections: Clematis
Make an obelisk for climbers
Plant a clematis
Grow decorative vines
Make a rose arch
Selections: Climbers for arches
Plant wisteria
Grow scented sweet peas
Prune stems for winter color
Weave a living screen
Plant wall shrubs
Selections: Decorative catkins
Grow climbers for winter color
Create standard shrubs
Choose compact conifers
Plant for all-season color
208
210
212
214
216
219
220
222
224
226
228
230
232
234
236
238
240
242
244
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
246
Grow a row of beans
Create a patio kitchen garden
248
250
Plant potatoes
Build a timber raised bed
Root crops for raised beds
Selections: Raised bed options
Plant crops in pots
Grow easy leaf crops
Winter-cropping vegetables
Sprouting seeds and beans
Selections: Edible flowers
Plant onions and garlic
Tomatoes in bags
Peas and pods
Sweet squash
Selections: Squash and pumpkins
Sow chilies
Grow mushrooms using a kit
Corn and broad beans
Make a vegetable windowbox
Grow your own salads
Selections: Salad leaves
Strawberries in pots
Raspberries and blackberries
Grow super fruits
252
254
256
258
260
262
264
266
268
270
272
274
276
278
280
281
282
284
286
288
290
292
294
Fruit for small spaces
Selections: Fruit for containers
Rhubarb and blueberries
Thai herbs and spices
Grow citrus fruit
Nuts for the garden
Create a herb parterre
Selections: Herbs
Tomato and herb basket
Make a herb circle
Grow figs and peaches
Train fruit trees
Plant a tiny orchard
296
298
300
302
304
306
308
310
312
314
316
318
320
WILDLIFE GARDENING
322
Make a wildlife pond
Plant up your pond
Plant a fishpond
Create a bog garden
Selections: Bog plants
Plant a boggy pot
Create a lush stream-side
Make a barrel pool
324
327
328
330
332
334
336
338
Create a small lily pond
Selections: Water lilies
Make an urn fountain
Plant trees for wildlife
Sow a flower meadow
Plant a bed for bees
Selections: Plants for insects
Create a home for wildlife
Install a green roof
Make garden compost
How to make leafmold
Make homes for birds and bees
340
342
344
346
348
350
352
354
356
358
360
362
PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
364
Dramatic amaryllis
Group houseplants
Make an indoor hanging basket
Selections: Orchids
How to grow exotic orchids
Create an orchid display
Force spring bulbs in winter
House plants as focal points
Selections: Shade-lovers
366
368
370
372
374
376
378
380
382
Flowering house plants
Grow indoor ferns
Plant a collection of cacti
Selections: Desert dwellers
All-year care for poinsettias
Bring plants back into flower
Grow silver-leaved begonias
Selections: Winter flowers
384
386
388
390
392
394
396
398
PLANT CARE
400
Tackle weeds
Feed your plants
Watering methods
Frost protection
Pruning tips
How to prune shrubs
Pruning clematis and roses
Plant propagation
Lawn care
Pest control
Disease control
Index
Suppliers
402
404
406
408
410
412
414
416
422
424
430
434
446
Gardening
Basics
Explore the world of plants and flowers to find out how they
grow, and the best ways to care for them. Then, find out
more about soil types and aspect to make sure you match
your plants to the conditions in your garden. Equipped with
this information, the fun can begin: put together a tool kit,
decide on your style, design a planting plan, and start
choosing plants and seeds. Finally, browse through the
“Seasonal Planner” on pages 24–25 to discover what
should be done when.
<<
GARDENING BASICS
Identifying plant types
Does your garden lack color or structure, and would it benefit from more glitz or a greater sense of
permanence? Different types of plant have different roles to play, and understanding what each one
can bring will help you make your garden more beautiful, and create year-round interest.
1 ANNUALS
2 BIENNIALS
3 PERENNIALS
4 GRASSES
These plants germinate, grow,
flower, set seed, and die all in
one year. They are bold and
colorful, and quickly gone,
although hardy ones may selfseed and appear the next year.
Much like annuals, biennials
are short-lived, but spread their
time over two years, growing
in the first, flowering in the
second. They too are used as
colorful bedding plants.
Perennials are the mainstays
of flower gardens, producing
their flowers and foliage year
after year. Most die down in
winter and produce a fresh
crop of leaves every spring.
Some ornamental grasses are
evergreen and keep their leaves
all year, while others die back.
They create movement and
light in the garden, and many
have striking winter skeletons.
5 SHRUBS
6 TREES
7 CLIMBERS
8 AQUATICS
Deciduous or evergreen, these
plants form the backbone
of the garden. Shrubs have
a woody framework and
create a permanent structure.
Many also produce attractive
flowers and berries.
For privacy, enclosure, and a
sense of permanence, plant
a tree. Evergreens provide
color all year, while deciduous
species bring young spring
leaves and blossom, autumn
color, and a wintry outline.
Scrambling up walls and across
trellises, climbers soften the
sharp lines of hard landscaping,
and they can also be grown
through shrubs and trees.
Many have beautiful flowers,
and some are scented.
If you have a pond, there
is a wide range of plants to
consider, from marginals with
ornamental foliage or flowers
that thrive in shallow water,
to spectacular deep-water
aquatics, such as water lilies.
11
12
GARDENING BASICS
>>
How plants grow
One of the pleasures of gardening is that it gives you the chance to watch nature at work. As soon
as you put a plant in the ground, a cycle of growth and reproduction begins. Learn what plants need
to grow strong and healthy, and you can help them to put on their best performance.
Vital supplies
Plants need water, air, nutrients, and light to thrive, and when
first planted they are dependent on you to provide them.
Neglect them at this stage and they are unlikely to survive.
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS
Plants make energy from sunlight through photosynthesis, and
can thrive only if they receive the right amount for their needs.
Different plants have evolved to survive in different conditions,
and some love shade, while others prefer their heads in the sun.
Plants also offer clues about the conditions they enjoy—those
with small hairy or gray leaves, such as lavender, enjoy sunny
sites, and those with large, dark green leaves grow well in shade.
When choosing plants, check their light requirements and plant
them in an appropriate place. Young plants are particularly
vulnerable to poor light conditions and will struggle to establish
if the sun is blocked by weeds, so keep the area around them
free of competing plants as they mature.
REGULAR WATER SUPPLIES
When young, all plants need regular watering because their
small root systems are unable to search for moisture if it doesn’t
come to them. You can encourage your plants to develop deep,
self-sustaining root systems by watering occasionally but deeply,
using one large watering can per plant. Moisture then seeps deep
into the soil, and the roots reach down to find it.
SOIL NEEDS
Plants love to sink their roots into aerated, moist yet well-drained
soil. To achieve these ideal conditions, dig in plenty of organic
matter, such as well-rotted manure or mushroom compost (see
pp.14–15) before planting, and spread a thick layer on the soil
surface in spring. Earthworms will then drag it down into the
soil, where it will gradually improve drainage and water-retention
capacity, ensuring that your soil contains all the nutrients and
moisture necessary for seeds to germinate and roots to explore.
1 Sunflowers literally love their heads in the sun and the blooms
follow its path throughout the day. 2 Earthworms produce gums
that bind soil particles together, improving the soil structure.
3 Water young plants regularly to help their roots establish.
<<
GARDENING BASICS
How plants reproduce
All plants are designed to ensure their survival or that of the next generation, but
they go about it in different ways. Some produce copious numbers of seeds, while
others reproduce vegetatively, extending their root systems through the soil.
a Hungry roots
The area close to the root tips is covered in tiny
hairs that absorb nutrients dissolved in the soil
water. Take care not to damage these.
MAKING SEED
ROOTING AROUND
Plants with colorful, nectar-filled flowers
attract pollinating insects that pick up
pollen from one flower and transfer it
to another. This process activates plants’
sexual reproduction and prompts the
flowers to start developing into seeds.
The benefit of reproducing sexually is
that every seedling has a slightly different
genetic makeup, and when adverse
conditions hit, only the fittest survive to
breed again, strengthening the species.
Many creepers and climbers throw out
long stems above ground that produce
roots when they touch the soil. The roots
of others clump up and spread gradually,
while some send up shoots from long,
extended roots. The danger of vegetative
reproduction is that it produces a less
diverse population, which is more
vulnerable to changing conditions. This
is why plants that reproduce asexually
also flower and set seed, just in case.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Plants feed via their roots, removing
minerals dissolved in water in the soil.
They are constantly seeking new areas
to exploit and form a large underground
network, so that when one area dries out
or is killed off, other roots can be relied
upon to take over and keep the plant
alive. In a natural environment, the plant
population will adjust to the nutrients that
are available. In a well-stocked garden
where plants are growing closely together
you will need to top-up the nutrient level
regularly by applying fertilizer and organic
matter, such as well-rotted manure.
Organic fertilizers are a good choice
for borders because they release nutrients
slowly, feeding plants for a season, and
do not harm beneficial soil organisms. You
can also apply fertilizer to the leaves with
a foliar feed. If a plant is suffering from a
trace element deficiency, such as iron or
manganese, a spray of foliar fertilizer can
quickly improve its health. Apply fertilizer
to the backs of leaves where they can
absorb it more easily.
1 Insects, such as bees, transfer pollen from one plant to another, which activates sexual
reproduction. 2 The male pollen grains fertilize female parts of the flower, stimulating
the production of seeds. 3 The arching shoots of brambles start to grow roots when
they touch the soil, producing a new plant. 4 Bamboos throw out long underground
roots called “runners,” which in turn generate shoots that grow to form new plants.
13
14
GARDENING BASICS
>>
Understanding soil
Your most important task as a gardener is to gain an understanding of soil. Your soil type determines
what will grow well and what will fail, so save yourself heartache and miserable plants by spending
a little time getting to know the soil in your garden and how to make the most of it.
TESTING YOUR SOIL
SANDY SOIL
There are two main types of soil particle:
sand and clay. Sand particles are
relatively large and water drains freely
through the spaces between them, while
clay particles are tiny and trap moisture
in the miniscule gaps. They are also
slightly absorbent. This explains why
sandy soils are dry and clay soils are
moisture-retentive. Most soils are a
mixture of both, but tend toward one or
the other, but the ideal is “loam,” which
contains almost equal measures of sand
and clay. Loam retains enough water for
plant roots to use, but also drains away
excess moisture to prevent waterlogging.
Test your soil type by digging some up
and rolling it between your fingers.
When rolled between the fingers, sandy
soil feels gritty, and when you try to mold
it into a ball or sausage shape, it falls
apart. It is also generally pale in color.
The benefits of sandy soils are that they
are light and well drained, and easy to
work. Mediterranean plants are happiest
in sandy soil, because they never suffer
TOP TIP: TESTING ACIDITY
i Shapeless and gritty
Samples of sandy soil feel gritty and when
you try to roll them into a ball, they simply
fall apart, even when wet.
CLAY SOIL
Roll clay between your fingers and it feels
smooth and dense, and retains its shape
when molded into a ball. Soils very rich in
clay will not crack even when rolled into a
horseshoe shape. Sticky and impossible
to dig when wet; solid, cracked and
impenetrable when dry, clay soils are hard
to work. But in return, when looked after
A simple pH test, available from the
garden center, will tell you how acidic
(lime-free) or alkaline (lime-rich) your
soil is, and this will determine the
range of plants you can grow. Add the
supplied solution to a small sample of
your soil in the tube provided. Wait
until the solution changes color, then
match the color to the chart.
from soggy roots. However, their poor
water-holding capacity makes sandy soils
prone to drought and lacking nutrients
because nutrients are dissolved in water.
correctly, they have excellent waterretaining properties, and are rich in
nutrients. Greedy rose bushes and fruit
trees love to sink their roots into them.
i Smooth and sticky
Like the material used for making pots, clay soils
feel smooth and pliable. Roll them into a ball or
sausage and they will retain their shape.
<<
IMPROVING YOUR SOIL
Whether you have a dry sandy soil or
a sticky clay, the prescription is the same:
lots and lots of organic matter, such as
well-rotted manure, spent mushroom
compost, and garden compost. These bind
together sandy soils and loosen dense clay
soils, so ladle them on.
GARDENING BASICS
Sun or shade?
Some plants like a hot spot, and enjoy basking in the sun all
day long, while others prefer cool shade. Find out what your
garden has to offer before you buy or start planting.
ASPECT EXPLAINED
a Using a compass
Line the red arrow up with north on your
compass to discover your garden’s aspect.
a Fork in manure
Regular applications of manure and other types
of organic matter will help to alleviate every
problem related to soil type.
LIGHTENING CLAY
Horticultural grit helps improve drainage in
clay soils. Dig it into the soil over a large
area, rather than using it to line the base
of planting holes. In heavy downpours
grit-lined planting holes act as sump
pumps and water pools around the roots
of plants, which can kill them.
a Add grit
To improve the structure of heavy clay soil,
spread a thick layer of horticultural grit over
a large area, and then dig it in.
CHECK YOUR PLOT
Patterns of sun and shade change
throughout the day, and a garden that
is in full sun at midday may have dark
pools of shade by late afternoon, so
spend some time watching your garden
on a sunny day and make a note of the
way shadows move around the plot. You
can then plan what to plant where and
identify areas for seating. Remember,
too, that the patterns change depending
on the season. A garden can look very
different in low-light winter conditions,
and areas that are in full sun for half the
day in summer may not get any at this
time of the year.
To assess light and shade, take pictures
of your garden at different times of the
day. This north-west-facing garden has
been shot morning, noon, and evening.
1 The patio is partially shaded in the
morning. 2 Most of this large garden is
sunny at midday because the house is not
tall enough to cast shade over it. 3 Sun
floods the whole patio in the evening.
Stand with your back to each of your
boundaries and use a compass to figure
out the direction that they face. Those
facing south will be in the sun all day
and hot, while those pointing north will
be in shade most of the time and cooler.
East-facing areas offer morning sun and
evening shade, while the opposite
applies to those facing west.
15
16
GARDENING BASICS
>>
Choosing a style
When planning your garden or planting design, start with an idea of the look you want to achieve.
Whether it’s a formal, ordered design or a wild and rambling feel you’re after, choose a style and
then follow it through with appropriate plants and materials.
WHAT DO YOU WANT?
o A place in the sun
When planning your garden,
locate areas in sun and
shade, and plan seating and
planting accordingly. Here,
the seating area is a sunny
terrace, ideal for loungers,
surrounded by summer
flowers. The ferns in
baskets need some shade
during the day and plenty
of moisture to succeed
here, and most of the
perennials will die down in
winter, leaving bare beds.
Before deciding on a style, gather together
some inspirational images. Take a camera
to local open gardens and flower shows,
snapping plants or designs that you like.
Add pictures from magazines and books
and you will soon have a scrapbook of
plants and designs. Think, too, about what
you want to do in your garden, whether
it’s to relax and entertain, tend a vegetable
plot, or grow a colorful flower border.
MEETING YOUR NEEDS
It is a good idea to focus on a particular style when designing your garden, but you will
need to factor in your specific needs too. Write a list of practical requirements and
incorporate these into your plans. For example, you may need a space to store trash
cans or bikes, or perhaps room for a greenhouse or shed. Also consider access to utility
buildings. When planning a dining area, consider how many people you will need to seat
around a table, and calculate the size of a proposed patio to accommodate them.
a Bicycle sculpture
The problem of storing bikes in a small front
garden is solved here with these cleverly
designed racks that not only keep them secure,
but transform them into a sculptural feature.
a Beautiful bins
Most households have recycling bins and trash cans that
take up space and look unsightly. Here, a small shed with
a roof planted up with mind-your-own-business (Soleirolia
soleirolii) hides them and blends in with the garden.
a Raised vegetables
Growing fruit and vegetables in
raised beds makes them easier to
tend. The beds can also double as
seats where space is limited.
Planting styles
The type of plants you choose, and the way in which you
group them, will affect your designs. For instance, packing
lots of different plants together lends an informal note, while
using just a few species creates a modern, urban look.
THEME YOUR PLANTING
Use your favorite plants to evolve a garden style to suit you. If
you love large, leafy plants, consider a tropical theme. Summer
annuals lend themselves to traditional cottage gardens, while
spiky succulents and drought-tolerant plants suit gravel gardens.
1 Spiky yuccas and hardy bananas create a lush tropical flavor.
2 Relaxed planting best suits the cottage-garden style. 3 The
tepee and butterfly-friendly plants make this garden a haven for
children. 4 Strong lines and few plants reflect a stark Modernist
style. 5 A circular lawn and grassy borders update a traditional
theme. 6 Sun-loving succulents sit happily in this desert-style bed.
18
GARDENING BASICS
>>
Planning your planting
The plants you choose for your garden will depend on your taste and the style you want to achieve, but
there are some basic rules about placing and grouping them that are relevant to all designs. If you have
just inherited a garden, wait a couple of seasons to see if any plants appear that are worth keeping.
ASSESS YOUR PLANTS
In addition to making a list of the plants you want to include in
your garden, also note those you have already. Think carefully
before removing trees and large shrubs because these will take
the longest to replace if you subsequently regret your decision.
You may find that a hedge or shrubs are sheltering the garden
from prevailing winds, or a tree could be masking an ugly view
or neighbor’s house. Remember, too, that you can easily move
clumps of perennials and bulbs, or split them into smaller groups.
Shrubby shelter belt p
The shrubs surrounding this patio shelter it from wind, and provide shade
and privacy. When deciding whether to keep or remove large plants, try to
visualize the garden without them, or cut them back first to see the effect.
PLAN THE STRUCTURE FIRST
a Stairway to heaven
To create this beautiful landscape, plant the
shrubs first, and fill in between them with
perennials and grasses. Plants that require good
drainage are squeezed between large boulders.
a Planting plan
When planning a tree in a border, take note of
its spread, which will affect the light and water
available to plants beneath it. The light leaf
cover of this Acer allows dense planting below.
First, mark out your bed or border with
nontoxic spray paint, sand from a bottle, or
a hose (see p.28). Then make a rough
paper plan by scaling down the length and
breadth of the bed to, say, 1 in (2.5 cm) on
paper to 10 in (25 cm) on the ground, or 1
in (2.5 cm) to 20 in (50 cm). Then start
plotting areas for the main structural plants,
such as shrubs and trees. Check their
heights and spreads to ensure they will
have space to grow where you want them.
Then draw circles with diameters that
represent the spread of each plant on your
paper plan. Alternatively, draw circles with
sand from a bottle or nontoxic spray paint
marking the positions of the plants on the
actual bed. The next step is to plan the
planting around these large specimens.
Make sure perennials are a good distance
from the central stems of trees and shrubs;
spring bulbs that flower before the
canopies open can be planted closer.
GROUPING PLANTS
Specimen trees and shrubs look great
as individual statements, but bulbs and
perennials have greater impact when
planted en masse. Bulbs are best planted
in large groups of 10 or more if you have
space—weave them between laterflowering plants. Perennials work well in
swathes of five or more. You can achieve
a naturalistic design by interlocking
sausage-shaped groups together, or for
a modern look, plant in more regimental
square or rectangular shapes. You can also
add rhythm and continuity to your design
by repeating the same plants throughout
the garden, and try combining contrasting
leaf shapes as well as flower colors for
a rich, textured look.
Creative contrasts p
Although the predominant color in this border is
green, the bold groups of perennials with
contrasting leaf shapes and forms more than
compensate for the limited color palette.
CHOOSING A COLOR THEME
Skillful garden designers are adept at
matching colors to create harmonious
planting displays, and by applying their
methods, you can create similar effects.
For a bright bold display, choose hot
colors, such as canary yellow, fuchsia pink,
red, and orange, or try cool blues, mauves,
purples, and white to imbue your design
with a mellow mood. Alternatively, mix
the two schemes, placing blue next to
yellow, or purple with red, to achieve a
more balanced effect, but avoid too many
different hues or your design will look
disjointed and messy. Another option is to
limit the palette to just one or two colors
for an elegant mono- or duotone scheme.
o a Lively or low key
Red tulips and yellow wallflowers toned down
with blue forget-me-nots create a bright,
exciting design to herald spring (left). At the
opposite end of the spectrum, this blue and
white design of grasses, daisies, Bergenia,
and Euphorbia has a tranquil effect (above).
20
GARDENING BASICS
>>
Get ready to plant
Having assessed your site and soil conditions, you are now
equipped with the information you need to buy the best
plants for your garden. Browse through the rest of the book
for ideas and plans, and make a list of your favorites.
Make your choices
When buying plants at a garden center or nursery, take the list of those
you want with you, and try to stick to it. Remember, perennials look best
planted in groups of three or more, while shrubs will need space to grow.
CHOOSE CAREFULLY
If some of the plants you have
chosen are not available at your
local garden center, it is
tempting to select a similar
plant, but take care to check
the labels for heights, spreads,
and growing conditions first
(left). Different species of the
same type of plant may grow
to very different proportions
from the one on your list.
a Small selections
Garden centers often stock a large range of plants, but only
a small selection of each species. For a greater choice, use
specialist nurseries; many offer mail-order or online service.
BUYER BEWARE
Before buying a plant, give it a
quick check to make sure you
take home a healthy one. First
look at the leaves and stems for
signs of pests and diseases, and
reject any plant with wilted
foliage. Large weeds growing in
the pot are also a sign of neglect.
Then, turn over the pot. If there is
a mass of roots growing through
the drainage holes, the plant
has been in its pot too long—a
condition known as “root bound.”
Finally, look for plants with lots of
leafy stems and fat flower buds.
a Cause for concern
Of the two climbers shown here, the one on the left
is the best choice, with lots of leafy stems.
o Root check
Just a few roots showing through the drainage holes
suggest that the plant has a well-established root
system but has not been in its pot for too long.
Storing plants
It is best to plant your purchases within
a day or two of bringing them home,
but if this is not possible, store them
carefully and they should continue to
flourish until you have time to plant
them, or the weather improves.
a Cool conditions
Store new plants in a cool, shady spot, and
water daily until planting.
TEMPORARY HOMES
Do not plant if the soil is waterlogged or
frozen; the roots of young plants will not
survive in either of these conditions.
Planting in a drought is also not advisable
because you will bring cooler, damp soil
from beneath the ground up to the surface
and lose precious moisture. In either case,
store your new plants in a sheltered area
in the shade, and water daily until the
conditions improve.
a Bare-root storage
If you are unable to plant bare-root plants
immediately, simply bury their roots in the
ground to keep them protected and moist.
Prepare the ground
Taking a few hours to prepare the soil before you plant always pays dividends,
and often ends up saving time in the long run. Removing weeds and enriching
the soil are essential jobs that are best done in the autumn or early spring.
REMOVE ALL WEEDS
First, dig out all of the weeds from the site by hand, or apply a weedkiller to
pernicious types, such as bindweed or ground elder (see pp.402–403). If the weeds
are really problematic, consider covering the soil with old carpet for a few seasons.
This excludes light and moisture, as well as forming a physical barrier against weed
seeds, and should kill off even the most troublesome types.
DIG IN DEEP
If you have taken on a neglected plot, or want to
improve all the soil in your garden, try “single digging.”
This involves digging a trench across your plot, one
spade wide and deep. Move the excavated soil to
the far end of the plot and add manure to the base
of the trench. Dig a second trench next to the first,
filling the first with the excavated soil. Then add
manure to the second trench. Repeat across the
plot. This is hard work, but well worth the effort.
a Time saver
When weeding try to completely remove the root systems
to prevent the plants from regrowing.
o Fertile ideas
By digging in well-rotted manure or garden compost over
the whole plot you will not have to worry about adding it
to individual areas each time you plant.
22
GARDENING BASICS
>>
Essential tools
You don’t need to spend a fortune when you start gardening, but a few basic tools are essential if you
want to perform more than the smallest tasks. When you have more than three or four tools, consider
investing in a small shed or box to keep your collection clean, dry, and free from rust.
YOUR TOOL KIT
A beginner’s kit should include a watering
can, fork, spade, rake, trowel, and a
hand fork. Add to these as your interest
increases, and the list of jobs you carry out
diversifies. If you find yourself doing a
particular task frequently, such as digging
the vegetable patch, invest in one tool of
particularly good quality to make the job
easier and more pleasurable.
DIGGING, PLANTING AND HARVESTING
1 A sturdy garden fork is an essential tool, ideal for digging heavy soil and aerating lawns.
2 Buy a lightweight gardening basket for weeding and moving plants around the garden.
3 If you are tall, invest in a long-handled spade and fork, which will help prevent back
injuries. 4 Trowels are ideal for planting seedlings and filling pots with soil. 5 Use a
hand fork for small planting jobs and removing weeds. 6 A standard rake is used to level
seedbeds and tamp down soil; buy a spring-tined fork for removing moss from lawns.
PRUNING AND CUTTING
The cutting tool you require depends on the
thickness of the material you need to remove.
There are lightweight clippers for cutting flowers
and shaping fine topiary; heavier clippers for
pruning stems of around pencil thickness; and
loppers and pruning saws for larger branches.
Choose the right pruning tool for the job
because clippers may be damaged by material
that is too thick, and a pruning saw will be too
rough and unwieldy for small branches. Using
the right pruner also makes the job much easier.
a Pruning with clippers
Invest in a good-quality pair of clippers
if you have shrubs and trees to prune.
Look for those with long-term guarantees.
Spades and forks are both used to
cultivate the soil but they have distinct
roles. Use a fork to dig heavy soil, lift root
crops, handle bulky material, such as
garden compost, or to incorporate organic
matter, such as manure, into the soil.
Spades are best for digging holes and
trenches, and shifting large quantities of
soil; they cope better with light soils that
fall through the prongs of a fork. However,
if you find a spade too heavy, buy a border
spade, which has a smaller head.
a Coping with larger branches
Small branches should be cut with a pruning
saw, which has a curved blade to make
sawing easier, and fits into awkward spaces.
WATERING
In summer, watering becomes the main
task in the garden, and a basic watering
can serves most needs. Fit a rose on
the spout to sprinkle water on delicate
seedlings or new plants after planting.
An additional benefit is that watering
cans fit easily under a rainwater butt tap.
In larger gardens, or if you have lots of
pots, you may find it necessary to use a
hose. Look for one with adjustable settings
so that you can gently sprinkle water on
to containers or spray established plants.
You can also buy long-handled hoses for
watering hanging baskets.
a Shower young plants
Use a garden hose with a spray fitting to water
newly planted areas with a gentle shower.
a Watering cans for all jobs
Use a full watering can to soak the roots of new
plantings, and for large potted trees and shrubs.
WEEDING
a Good slicing action
Keep your hoe sharpened and it will sever
the roots of annual weeds more efficiently.
a Dealing with deep roots
A weed grubber can lever tap roots out
of the soil, preventing regrowth.
CLEANING AND CARE
Clean your tools regularly to keep them in good
condition. Oil clippers every few months to prevent
them from rusting and check that the blades are
tight so they cut efficiently. Brush soil from spades
and forks regularly, and apply oil to the blades and
prongs once or twice a year to deter rust. Before
trimming or pruning a plant, help to prevent the
buildup of plant diseases, such as box blight
(see p.99), by cleaning your cutting tools, including
saws and clippers, with household disinfectant.
1 Clean all pruning tools before each use to avoid
spreading diseases from one plant to another. 2 At the
end of the season, clean and oil spades to prevent rust.
3 Wipe pruning saws with a soft cloth and oil them.
The most useful tool for weeding is a hoe,
which you push along the surface of the
soil to slice through the necks of weeds,
where the stems meet the soil. Although
hoeing kills annual weeds instantly,
perennials chopped off in this way will
survive and regrow. Weeds with tap roots,
such as dandelions, are better dealt with
using a weed grubber—a long pointed tool
that penetrates deep into the soil. Use a
spade or trowel to tackle perennials
without tap roots, such as dock.
24
GARDENING BASICS
>>
Seasonal planner
Spring
Every season brings its own tasks in the garden, whether it’s
making long-term changes, preparing for the months ahead,
or maintaining it in the present. Do these jobs at the right time
and in the correct order, and caring for your garden will be easier,
quicker, and more satisfying. Your plants will benefit, too.
Ǽ Cut back ornamental grasses (pp.52–53),
prairie-style borders, (pp.70–71) and
autumn-flowering perennials (pp.94–95).
EARLY SPRING
Ǽ Prepare beds and borders for planting;
weed and dig over the soil; add organic
matter where appropriate (p.249).
Ǽ Prune late-flowering shrubs, early
summer-flowering clematis and roses
(pp.412–415).
Ǽ Pollard willows and coppice dogwoods
(pp.230–231).
Ǽ Cut lavender hedges back (p.199).
Ǽ Apply a granular fertilizer around shrubs,
trees, and perennials (p.404).
Ǽ Sow half-hardy annuals indoors
(pp.108–109).
Ǽ Pot up plug plants indoors (pp.120–121).
Ǽ Lift and divide established clumps of
perennials (p.416).
Ǽ Plant hardy grasses (pp.52–53).
Ǽ Plant snowdrops “in the green” (p.41).
Ǽ Regularly deadhead spring-flowering
bulbs and bedding plants.
Ǽ Repot Christmas trees (pp.158–159).
MID–LATE SPRING
Ǽ Plant perennials (pp.28–31);
summer-flowering bulbs (pp.124–125);
and pond plants (pp.326–327).
Ǽ Inside, plant Thai herbs (pp.302–303)
Ǽ Plant indoor hanging basket (pp.370–371).
Ǽ Sow hardy annuals directly outdoors; sow
tender annuals indoors (pp.208–209).
Ǽ Sow vegetables (pp.248–289), and plant
potatoes (p.252).
Ǽ Sow a wildflower meadow (pp.348–349).
Ǽ Mulch the soil (p.495).
1 Sow annual flowers and vegetables inside in spring for earlier displays and crops.
2 Deadhead flowering plants throughout spring and summer, to encourage more blooms.
Store dahlia tubers in a frost-free place for the winter. 3 Check all vegetable and fruit
crops regularly, and harvest them when they’re at their best. 4 Rake up fallen leaves
from the lawn in late autumn to keep the grass green. Use them to make leafmold.
Ǽ Start weeding (p.23 and pp.402–403).
Ǽ Prune early-flowering shrubs and early
clematis after flowering (p.412; p.416).
Ǽ Stake herbaceous perennials (p.67).
Ǽ Start mowing the lawn (pp.422–423).
Summer
Autumn
<<
Winter
GARDENING BASICS
EARLY SUMMER
EARLY AUTUMN
Ǽ Harden off tender seedlings sown
indoors (pp.108–109).
Ǽ Prepare beds for spring planting (p.249).
Ǽ Plant bare-root trees and hedges
(pp.192-193).
Ǽ Plant spring bulbs, except tulips, in
beds (pp.40–41) and lawns, (pp.210–11).
Ǽ Take root cuttings from perennials
(p.418).
Ǽ Plant containers and baskets for winter
color (pp.156–157).
Ǽ Prune wisteria (pp.226–227), and
most trees, including apples and
pears (pp.410–411).
Ǽ Plant out summer bedding and
vegetable plants.
Ǽ Plant up containers (pp.110–111) and
hanging baskets (pp.130–131).
Ǽ Protect young plant growth from
pests, especially slugs (pp.424–429).
Ǽ Take hardwood cuttings (p.419).
Ǽ Sow sweet peas for an early display
the following year (pp.228–229).
Ǽ Prune late-flowering clematis (p.414).
Ǽ Prune trees to create multistemmed
specimens (p.182).
Ǽ Put houseplants, including citrus
(pp.304–305), outside for summer.
Ǽ Plant wallflowers for spring color
(p.114).
Ǽ Feed flowering shrubs and roses with
a rose fertilizer to promote flowering
(pp.404–405).
Ǽ Bring houseplants back indoors,
checking for pests and diseases first.
Ǽ Chit potatoes in late winter to plant
in spring (pp.252–253).
Ǽ Protect slightly tender exotics from
frost by wrapping in fleece (p.181).
Ǽ Plan your vegetable and flower beds.
Ǽ Cover slightly tender perennials with a
thick mulch of straw or bark chippings.
Ǽ Group containers for stability in high
winds and for insulation.
Ǽ Move tender dahlia tubers and cannas
inside (pp.86–87).
Ǽ Wrap terracotta pots in bubble plastic
or hessian for frost protection (p.409).
Ǽ Turf or sow lawns (pp.206–208).
Ǽ Build a raised bed (pp.254–255).
Ǽ Apply an autumn lawn fertilizer to
established lawns (pp.422–423).
Ǽ Put up new bird boxes (p.363).
Ǽ Prune evergreen shrubs (p.411), and
hornbeam, cherry, and pear trees
(p.413) after flowering.
Ǽ Earth up potatoes and harvest after
flowering (pp.252–253).
Ǽ Sow beet (p.254), radishes (p.260),
spinach (p.263), and lettuce (p.286)
every two weeks.
Ǽ Take softwood cuttings (p.420).
Ǽ Harvest winter crops (pp.264–265).
Ǽ Order flower and vegetable seeds.
Ǽ Lay chamomile lawns (p.209).
Ǽ Make a woodpile shelter for wildlife
(pp.354–355).
ANY TIME OF YEAR
Ǽ Trim lavender hedges after
flowering (p.199).
Ǽ Prune hedges for the last time.
Ǽ Make a compost bin; fill, turn
Ǽ Prune wisteria to restrict growth
(p.226).
LATE AUTUMN
LATE SUMMER
Ǽ Sow spring cabbages (p.262).
Ǽ Take semi-ripe wood cuttings (p.421).
Ǽ Make an insect hotel in time for winter
hibernation (pp.354–355).
ALL SUMMER
Ǽ Water containers and new plantings
frequently, particularly in hot weather
(pp.406–407).
Ǽ Plant shrubs (pp.20–21); roses
(pp.92–93); trees (pp.178–179); hedges
(pp.192–197); climbers (pp.212–213);
and fruit bushes (pp.292–293).
Ǽ Plant tulips (pp.40–41).
Ǽ Sow broad beans (see p.283).
Ǽ Plant onions and garlic (pp.270–271).
Ǽ Grow trees from seed (pp.188–189).
Ǽ Mow the lawn as required.
Ǽ Indoors, plant amaryllis bulbs
(pp.366–367), and prepared hyacinths
and narcissi (pp.378–379).
Ǽ Deadhead flowering plants to extend
blooming.
Ǽ Trim late-flowering shrubs to reduce
winter wind-rock (p.412).
Ǽ Prune hedges and topiary as required.
Ǽ Rake up fallen leaves and make
leafmold (pp.360–361).
Ǽ Weed beds and borders.
Ǽ Tie climbers in to their supports.
and empty when necessary
(pp.358–359).
Ǽ Make a wooden obelisk
(pp.216–218).
Ǽ Create a bog garden (pp.330–331).
Ǽ Dig out a pond (pp.324–325).
Ǽ Make a border and lawn edge
(pp.32–33).
Ǽ Make a rose arch (pp.222–223).
Ǽ Check tree ties, and loosen
if necessary (p.179).
Ǽ Look out for pests and diseases,
and take appropriate action
(pp.424–433).
Ǽ Cut out dead or diseased wood
(pp.410).
Ǽ Clean all cutting tools after use
to prevent spreading plant
diseases (p.23).
25
Beautiful
Beds
In this chapter you will find everything you need to know
to make stunning beds and borders, from digging out a new
site, to creating a group of grasses or a sparkling winter
display. Learn how to plant bulbs, perennials, and shrubs, and
then create a range of beautiful planting designs—either copy
the ideas here or use them as inspiration for plans of your
own. From old-fashioned cottage perennials to modern
architectural foliage plants, there’s something for everyone.
Create a new border
Before you start digging a new border, think about the best place for it. Try taking a photograph of your
garden from an upstairs window, or from a seating area, to see where you need color and interest. Also
consider where the sun falls at different times of the day, and the types of plant you would like to use.
Many summer-flowering plants need sun to bloom well, while large leafy types often prefer shade, and
others are happy with both, so check what your chosen plants need before buying them.
<<
WHEN TO START
Early autumn
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 days
YOU WILL NEED
Tape measure
Hose
Half-moon turf cutter
Spade
Fork
Rake
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Horticultural grit (for clay soil)
Granular fertilizer
Watering can
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
MARK OUT THE BORDER
With a tape measure,
mark out the length and
breadth of your border, making
sure that it is not too narrow—
a minimum width of 3 ft (1 m) is
best. Use broad sweeping curves
or a geometric design; avoid
wiggly shapes, which look messy.
Use a garden hose to mark out curved borders
or pegs and string for straight edges. Carefully
following the outlines, cut through the grass
using a half-moon turf cutter or a spade.
LIFT THE TURF
Cut the turf into squares within your
marked out area. Turf is heavy, so to
make the squares easier to remove, make them
a little smaller than the width of a spade blade.
Use the spade to slice through the grass roots
under each square before lifting the turf.
Plants used in this border:
Achillea
Crocosmia masoniorum
Verbena bonariensis
PREPARE THE SITE
TOP TIP: RECYCLING TURF
Remove the turves and store them
upside–down and out of the way
(see Top Tip, right). Clear the site of large
stones, debris, and weeds, removing the
roots of perennial species, such as
dandelion, dock, and bindweed. Break up
large clods of soil with a garden fork to give
an even texture. Then, check your soil to see
if it is sandy or rich in clay (see pp.14–15).
ENRICH THE SOIL
Whatever your soil type, it will benefit
from an application of well-rotted organic
matter, such as manure or garden compost.
Either use the “single-digging” method (see p.21),
or dig in organic matter by spreading a 3 in
(8 cm) layer over the border and mixing it into
the top 6 in (15 cm) of soil. If you have heavy
clay, also dig in some horticultural grit to improve
drainage. Rake the surface smooth.
continued...
You can use turf removed from
the border to patch up holes in
lawns elsewhere in the garden,
or pile it up and leave for about
a year to rot down. Grass turves
make excellent compost, which
you can apply as a mulch to your
border in early spring, before the
perennials start to shoot.
29
30
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
SET OUT YOUR
PLANTS
WATER PLANTS
WELL
Now that the border
is prepared, it is time to
start planting. Make sure
you buy plants that will suit
your site and soil conditions,
and the style you wish to
create (see pp.14–17). This
free-draining, sunny site
suits a prairie-style design.
Set out your plants in their
pots and step back to see
how the arrangement looks.
Check that tall plants
will not shade the smaller
ones, and position the
perennials in groups of
three or more. Water them
well before planting, either
with a watering can or by
plunging the pots in a
bucket of water, waiting
for the bubbles to disperse,
and then removing the
plants to drain.
CHECK PLANTING
DEPTHS
REMOVE PLANTS
FROM POTS
For each perennial
plant (see p.36 for shrub
planting), dig a hole twice
as wide as the pot, and a
little deeper. Place the pot
into the hole to check that
the plant will be at the
same depth after planting
as it is in its pot. Lay a
garden stake across the
hole to help judge the
right depth.
Fork the bottom
of the hole to break up
any compacted soil. Then
squeeze the sides of the
pot and turn it upside
down. With your fingers
threaded through the stems
and holding the soil, give
the bottom of the pot a tap.
The plant should slide out
easily, but if not, tap the
pot until it does.
FINISHING TOUCHES
When you have planted the whole border, use a hose
to water the plants thoroughly. A good soaking will
settle the soil around the plants, helping them establish. If any
roots are exposed by the watering, cover them with soil.
FIRM IN
If the roots have circled around the root ball, gently tease
them out (see Top Tip, opposite). Place the plant in the
hole. Add some granular fertilizer to the excavated soil, and use
this to fill in around the plant. Firm it in with your hands.
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
CARING FOR YOUR PLANTS
Apply a mulch (see p.405) to
the whole border. Perennials
take about a year to establish fully, and
if planted in spring, they should have a
healthy root system by the autumn. Until
then, the plants will need to be watered
regularly, even daily during periods of
drought. After planting, feed them every
year in spring with an all-purpose fertilizer
and reapply a mulch.
Planting depths
The depth at which you plant can have a great impact on growth. Most plants,
including shrubs (see pp.36–37) and perennials, should be planted at the same
depth as they were in their pots. However, there are exceptions, including those
mentioned below. Most trees also have specific planting needs (see pp.178–179).
PLANTING PROUD
TOP TIP: TEASING OUT ROOTS
When planting, you may see the roots
growing around in a tight circle, where
they have been restricted by the pot.
This is known as “root-bound,” and will
limit the plant’s development. Remedy
the problem by gently teasing out the
roots so that they will grow away from
the ball into the surrounding soil.
Some plants perform best when planted
slightly above the surrounding soil level.
These include irises, whose rhizomes
(bulblike structures—see right) will rot if
buried, and other plants sensitive to wet
soils, including Verbascum, Sisyrinchium,
Sedum, and other hardy succulents. Plant
these 1 in (2–3 cm) above the surface,
leaving iris rhizomes exposed; for other
plants, raise the soil in a mound around
the rootball, so that water drains off.
DEEP PLANTING
Moisture-loving plants often prefer to
be planted more deeply in the soil, so
that their roots are not exposed to the
drier conditions near the surface. Plant
hostas with their roots 1 in (2 cm) below
the surface, and bury Solomon’s seal
(Polygonatum) at a depth of 4 in (10cm).
31
32
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Build a decorative edge
Edging is both practical and aesthetic. At its most useful it marks out the boundary of a lawn, while also
allowing you to simply run the mower over it. With a wide variety of materials to choose from, edging
can be a decorative feature in its own right, chosen to complement the plants it contains.
WHEN TO START
Any time
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
5 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Bricks
String and pegs
Sharp spade
Wet mortar mix
Dry mortar mix
Club hammer
Spirit level
Trowel
Brush
USE STRING AS A GUIDE
REMOVE A STRIP OF TURF
Use one brick to measure the
correct distance from your raised
bed (or border) and set up a line of string
between two pegs from which to work.
Cut through the turf along the line using
the sharp edge of a spade.
Dig out a strip of turf deep enough
to accommodate the bricks plus a
1 in (2.5 cm) layer of mortar. First slice the
turf up into manageable sections, then
slide the spade underneath and lift them
out onto a piece of tarpaulin.
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
LEVEL THE GROUND
Use the spade to roughly level out
the ground. Mix wet mortar and
add a 1 in (2.5 cm) layer to the bottom of
the trench to bed in the bricks.
Edging options
Different edging materials will bring different looks to your garden, from delicate
and ephemeral to solid and hard working. Copper piping, bent into a graceful
curve (above), provides a pretty edge that echoes the colors of the planting.
LAY BRICKS ON MORTAR
Place the bricks on the mortar and
set slightly below the level of the
turf. Leave a small gap between each. Use
a spirit level to check they are horizontal,
and firm them using a club hammer.
APPLY A DRY MIX
Finally, use a dry mortar mix to
fill the joints between the bricks,
working the mixture in with a trowel.
Clean off the excess with a brush.
1 In an informal area, allow your plants to spill over onto solid brick paving.
2 Geometric Victorian-style brick edging suits both formal and cottage-style
gardens. 3 The attractive soft gray of slate chippings provides a perfect foil for edging
plants. 4 Log edging is the ideal choice for seaside-themed gardens, especially when
used with a gravel mulch, mixed with larger pebbles.
33
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
First flush of spring
Awkward areas of bare ground beneath trees or shrubs are perfect
for spring-flowering perennials and bulbs that bloom before the
trees’ leaves are out and casting shade. Choose woodland dwellers,
such as snowdrops and hellebores, for dense areas of shade, and
sun-loving crocuses for the edge of the border.
PREPARE THE GROUND
WHEN TO PLANT
Spring for snowdrops
Autumn for bulbs and plants
Woodland bulbs enjoy a moist,
open-textured soil, rich in organic
matter, so add plenty of well-rotted
leafmold (see pp.360–361).
AT THEIR BEST
Early spring
PLANT THE BULBS
TIME TO COMPLETE
Most spring bulbs are planted in
autumn, but snowdrops do best
when transplanted “in the green”—after
flowering but while their leaves are intact.
For a natural effect, plant bulbs in drifts.
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Slim trowel or bulb planter
Spade
Well-rotted leafmold
1. Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis
2. Winter aconite, Eranthis
hyemalis
3. Crocus tommasinianus
4. Helleborus x hybridus (purple)
5. Helleborus x hybridus (pink)
AFTER FLOWERING
In rougher corners of the garden,
dying bulb leaves can just be left,
but if you feel the need to tidy, make sure
the leaves have died down completely
before you remove them. Give all plants
an annual mulch of leafmold.
5
1
2
4
3
35
36
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Plant a shady border
A border set in deep shade can be a real bonus in the garden if you choose your plants carefully,
because some of the most beautiful shrubs will only grow well in low light conditions. These areas
may lack the drama of a sunny spot, but they have a cool and understated sophistication of their own.
WHEN TO START
Autumn
AT ITS BEST
Spring
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours for preparation
3 hours for planting
YOU WILL NEED
Spade
Organic matter, such as
well-rotted leafmold
Shrubs such as:
Camellia and flowering currant,
Ribes sanguineum.
Underplanting, for example,
Bergenia, Dicentra spectabilis,
ferns, and hellebores.
BEFORE YOU PLANT
Many plants that grow well in
shady conditions grow naturally
in woodlands, and need a cool, moist
soil, which has been enriched with
leafmold. In autumn, clear the planting
area of all weeds, then mix plenty of
leafmold into the soil (to make leafmold,
see pp.360–361).
DIG PLANTING HOLES
Buy your shrubs in autumn or
spring, and plan carefully where
you are going to plant them, taking into
account their final size. The shrubs go
toward the back of the border, with the
underplanting below them and in front.
The planting holes should be twice as
wide and slightly deeper than the pots.
TOP TIP: FEEDING SHRUBS
Shrubs need regular feeding to thrive.
Early spring is the best time to sprinkle
a fertilizer, such as blood, fish, and
bone meal, around the base of the
plants. Repeat each year to keep
growth vigorous and healthy.
CHECK PLANTING DEPTHS
Put some leafmold in the bottom
of each hole and then place a plant
on top of it. Use a stake across the hole
to check that the plant will be at the same
depth when planted as it was in its pot.
WATER IN WELL
Fill in around the plant with soil and
leafmold, and water in well. Water
regularly until the plant is established.
Mulch with organic matter, like leafmold,
leaving the area around the stems clear.
<<
Planting options
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Shade-tolerant shrubs that are grown for
their flowers, such as camellias, need a
little light. The selection below is best
planted where some sun can filter through,
such as near deciduous trees or a trellis.
1 Daphne laureola subsp. philippi; h18 in
(45 cm) s24 in (60 cm) 2 Rosa rugosa ‘Rubra’;
hsto 6 ft (2 m) 3 Paeonia delavayi var. lutea;
h6 ft (2 m) s4 ft (1.2 m) 4 Hydrangea aspera
Villosa Group; hsto 10 ft (3 m)
o Kept in the dark
This beautiful white form of flowering currant, Ribes
sanguineum, and pink camellia are underplanted
with a golden-leaved bleeding heart, Dicentra
spectabilis ‘Gold Heart’, and other shade-lovers.
37
SELECTIONS >>
38
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Spring bulbs
Spring bulbs brighten the garden from the depths of winter to the
beginning of summer. The first out is always the snowdrop, often pushing
its pale little flowers through a layer of snow. At the end of the season,
alliums come into their own, heralding the start of summer with their
globelike purple flowerheads, floating above early perennials. Plant your
bulbs in autumn and your efforts will be rewarded come the spring.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’; h3 ft (1 m) s4 in (10 cm) Ad H12–1
2 Grape hyacinth,
Muscari armeniacum; h8 in (20 cm) s2 in (5 cm) AdE H8–1 3 Tulipa ‘Prinses Irene’; h14 in
(35 cm) s4 in (10 cm) Ad H8–4 4 Scilla siberica; h8 in (20 cm) s2 in (5 cm) ABdE H8–5
5 Crocus corsicus; h4 in (10 cm) s2 in (5 cm) AD H9–6
(15 cm) s2in (5 cm) AbdE H10–6
H11–4
6 Narcissus ‘Canaliculatus’; h6 in
7 Narcissus ‘Tête-à-Tête’; h6 in (15 cm) s2 in (5 cm) ABdE
8 Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Blue Jacket’; h8 in (20 cm) s3 in (8 cm) ABD H9–1 9 Fritillary,
Fritillaria raddeana; h24 in (60 cm) s4 in (10 cm) AD H9–6
0 Tulipa sprengeri; h20 in (50 cm)
s4 in (10 cm) Ad H8–4 q Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis; hs4 in (10 cm) BE H8–1
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
39
SELECTIONS >>
<<
Plant a bed of spring bulbs
Harbingers of spring, bulbs transform sleeping gardens into oceans of color as the seasons turn.
Starting with the first brave snowdrops that peek through the soil in winter, and closing with a
spectacular display of tulips and alliums at the end of spring, bulbs provide a long period of interest.
Plant them in autumn—leave tulips until late in the season—and they will flower the following year.
<<
How deep?
WHEN TO START
Mid autumn
AT ITS BEST
Early to late spring
For bulbs to succeed, you need to plant
them at the right depth, usually two to
four times the height of the bulb. Plant
too shallowly, and they may not flower;
too deep, and they might not grow at all.
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes for planting
YOU WILL NEED
Fork
Spade
Horticultural grit
Bulb planter or trowel
Chicken wire
Selection of spring bulbs
DIG A HOLE
Dig to a depth of about 2–4 times
the height of your bulbs (see
right). Place the bulbs in the hole with
the pointed growing tip facing upward.
Discard any that are moldy or soft.
TOP TIP: PLANTING SNOWDROPS
Snowdrops have tiny bulbs that dehydrate
quickly, and often fail to flower if planted
in autumn. Instead, buy pot-grown bulbs
in leaf in the spring and plant them so
that the pale bases of the stems are just
below the soil surface. If you already have
large clumps of snowdrops, lift and divide
them in spring, after flowering (see
pp.416–417 for tips on dividing plants).
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
PREPARE TO PLANT
All bulbs need well-drained soil,
so if you have heavy clay, either
dig in plenty of grit before you start, or
grow them in pots (see pp.106–107). You
can either plant bulbs individually, using
a bulb planter or trowel, or dig a wide
hole and plant them en masse, which is
an easier method, and more naturalistic.
COVER BULBS
Fill in the hole with soil, taking
care not to damage the growing
tips, and firm it down with your fingers.
Cover with chicken wire to prevent
animals from digging up the bulbs;
remove it when the first shoots appear.
1 Tulips prefer to be planted deeply, four
times their own depth; a 2 in (5 cm) bulb is
planted 8 in (20 cm) deep. 2 Daffodils
are planted three times their own depth; a
2 in (5 cm) bulb is planted 6 in (15 cm)
deep. 3 Plant grape hyacinths (Muscari)
at three times their depth; a ¾ in (2 cm)
bulb is planted at a depth of 2½ in (6 cm).
4 Alliums are also planted at three times
their depth; a 1¼ in (3 cm) bulb should be
planted 3½ in (9 cm) deep.
41
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Seasonal pastels
Many of the bulbs and flowers of early summer come in pastel
shades that can be easily combined to create a harmonious design.
Striking alliums dotted through the border provide a touch of drama.
PREPARE THE SOIL
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn and early spring
Many bulbs and most of these
plants prefer a well-drained soil,
and suffer if left to sit in damp conditions
over winter. If your soil is heavy, dig in
horticultural grit to improve drainage.
AT THEIR BEST
Early summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
PLANT UP
5 hours
Plant the alliums in autumn and
mark their positions with labels.
In spring, plant the perennial wallflowers
and the aquilegias around the alliums in
drifts. Plant the tall foxgloves at the back.
YOU WILL NEED
Horticultural grit
Spade
Bulb planter or slim trowel
1. Foxglove, Digitalis purpurea
f. albiflora
2. Allium hollandicum ‘Purple
Sensation’
3. Aquilegia vulgaris ‘Nora
Barlow’
4. Perennial wallflower,
Erysimum ‘Bowles's Mauve’
AFTERCARE
Alliums have beautiful seedheads,
so leave for as long as they look
good. Aquilegias can be cut back after
flowering to promote fresh growth.
Alliums and aquilegias come up each year,
foxgloves self-seed, but the wallflowers
may need replacing after a few years.
1
2
4
3
43
44
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Grow acid-lovers
If you have tested your soil (see p.14) and found that it is acidic, some
of the most beautiful flowering and foliage shrubs, including Japanese
maples, camellias, and rhododendrons, will thrive in your garden.
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn or early spring
AT THEIR BEST
Spring
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Spade
All-purpose fertilizer for
acid-loving plants
Selection of acid-loving shrubs:
Japanese maple, Acer palmatum
Flowering dogwood, Cornus florida
Korean rhododendron,
Rhododendron mucronulatum
SPACING THE PLANTS
You can use any Acer palmatum or
rhododendron for this design but
they may have different growth habits from
these, so check labels for sizes and allow
space between plants for a few years’ growth.
ADD ORGANIC MATTER
Choose a partly shaded site, sheltered
from cold, drying winds. Before
planting, dig a bucketful of well-rotted organic
matter into each square yard of soil. Water the
plants well, and then plant according to the
instructions for shrubs on page 36.
CARING FOR ACID-LOVERS
Each spring, apply an all-purpose
fertilizer for acid-loving shrubs, and
mulch annually (see p.405) to aid soil
moisture retention. In spring, after flowering,
trim back lightly any wayward growth.
Planting in containers
If you have an alkaline soil but would like to
grow acid-loving plants, try planting them in
containers filled with ericaceous soil, which is
specially designed for them.
CREATING THE RIGHT CONDITIONS
Choose a large container or make a raised bed
(see pp.254–255) for acid-loving shrubs, such
as camellias, azaleas, and rhododendrons. Fill
your planters with ericaceous soil and, each
spring, replace the top layer of soil from the
bed or pot with fresh soil mixed with a fertilizer
for acid-loving plants.
a Acid colors
Azaleas come in a range of fiery shades that
set off simple white containers beautifully.
If leaves start to yellow, which is a sign of
iron deficiency, give them a dose of fertilizer
for acid-lovers.
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Planting options
Combine the spring shrubs in this design, and
those below, with summer-flowering blue
hydrangeas, Kalmia latifolia, and fragrant
summersweet, Clethra, to extend the season.
Alternatively, create a conifer and heather
garden, which will thrive in acid conditions.
1 Enkianthus deflexus; E10 ft (3 m)
2 Grevillea rosmarinifolia; H6 ft (1.8 m)
s8 ft (2.5 m) 3 Cercis canadensis ‘Forest
Pansy’; E30 ft (10 m) 4 Winter heath,
Erica carnea; H6 in (15 cm) s18 in (45 cm)
o Candy color mix
This sumptuous mix of blowsy pink rhododendron
flowers (Rhododendron mucronulatum), dark
purple maple leaves (Acer palmatum var. dissectum
‘Garnet’) and elegant red dogwood stems makes
a stunning spring display.
45
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Fiery border
Hot-hued plants in shades of orange, red, and yellow are guaranteed
to brighten up your garden. Plant them in a sunny spot, and position
them against a dark background for maximum impact.
PREPARE THE SITE
WHEN TO START
Late autumn to early spring
Between late autumn and early
spring, remove all weeds from the
site and dig in well-rotted organic matter
(see also p.29). Buy plants in spring.
AT ITS BEST
Mid- to late summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
SET OUT THE PLANTING PATTERN
1 hour preparation; 3 hours to plant
First plant the clematis against the
screen (see p.219). Set out the
other plants in pots and arrange them in
groups of three or more, with the dahlias,
Kniphofia and Crocosmia at the back.
YOU WILL NEED
Organic matter
All-purpose fertilizer
Stakes and twine
1. Clematis x diversifolia
PLANT AND STAKE
2. Kniphofia ‘Bees’ Sunset’
Plant as for perennials (see
pp.30–31) and include some
all-purpose fertilizer in the planting holes.
Insert a stake next to the dahlias, and tie
in the stems as they grow. Water well
after planting and during dry spells for
the first year. Overwinter dahlia tubers
in a frost-free place (see p.86).
3. Dahlia ‘David Howard’
4. Feather grass, Stipa tenuissima
5. Achillea Summer Pastels Group
6. Helenium ‘Moerheim Beauty’
7. Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’
8. Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’
8
1
2
3
7
6
5
4
47
SELECTIONS >>
48
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Delicious scents
Even the most beautifully designed and colorful garden is lacking an
essential ingredient if it contains no fragrant plants; some emit strong
scents that fill the garden, others are best appreciated at close quarters.
Use perfumed plants next to seating areas or alongside walkways to
experience them in full. Most flower from spring to summer, but include
mahonia or Christmas box for delicious scents in the depths of winter.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Mock orange, Philadelphus ‘Burfordensis’; h10 ft (3 m) s6 ft (2 m) ABd H8–5
2 Daphne x
burkwoodii ‘Somerset’; hs5 ft (1.5 m) ABdE H7–1 3 Wallflower, Erysimum cheiri ‘Fire King’;
h10 in (25 cm) s8 in (20 cm)Ad H7–1
s18 in (45 cm) AdE H12–1
4 Chocolate plant, Cosmos atrosanguineus; h30 in (75 cm)
5 Mahonia x media cultivar; h15 ft (5 m) s12 ft (4 m) ABDe H9–8
6 Rosa Escapade; h30 in (75 cm) s24 in (60 cm)AE H9–5
h18 in (45 cm) s24 in (60 cm) Ad H8–5
7 Lavandula angustifolia ‘Munstead’;
8 Pink, Dianthus ‘Bovey Belle’; hs12 in (30 cm)AD
9 Rhododendron luteum; hs12 ft (4 m) Be H9–7 0 Christmas box, Sarcococca confusa; h6 ft
(2 m) s3 ft (1 m) BCE H9–6
q Viburnum carlesii ‘Aurora’; hs6 ft (2 m) ABdE H8–5
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
49
SELECTIONS >>
<<
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Fragrant combination
Scent is one of the most evocative senses, and this profusion of
perfumed plants is sure to tempt you closer to enjoy the fragrant
flowers of old-fashioned roses, lilies, lavender, and pinks.
PLANT THE ROSES
WHEN TO PLANT
Early spring
Most of the plants here prefer
free-draining soil, so dig plenty
of grit into clay soils to improve drainage.
The roses require more moisture: plant
them as recommended on page 93.
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours
COMPLETE THE PLANTING
YOU WILL NEED
Plant a line of lavender and lilies
in front of the roses, and position
the thyme and pinks along the front edge.
Mulching with gravel will keep plant
stems dry, and keep them from rotting off.
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Grit
Spade
All-purpose granular fertilizer
AFTERCARE
1. Bronze-leaved fennel
Keep the bed well watered for the
first year, and during any prolonged
dry spells thereafter. To ensure a good
display, feed the plants each spring with
a granular fertilizer. Regularly remove any
faded rose and Dianthus flowers as they
appear to extend their performance.
2. Easter lily, Lilium longiflorum
3. Pink, Dianthus ‘Super Trooper’
4. Silver-leaved thyme
5. French lavender, Lavandula
stoechas
6. Rosa ‘Gertrude Jekyll’
1
2
6
3
5
4
51
52
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Grassy border
Decorative grasses produce fabulous textural effects and look stunning
when grouped together. Most are easy to maintain, and have a long
season of interest, with plumes of flowers in summer followed by
seedheads and stems that offer color and structure in winter.
PREPARE A BORDER
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn or early spring
Choose an open, sunny site for your
border. Grasses generally tolerate
a wide range of soil conditions, but it is
always wise to dig in well-rotted organic
matter before planting your border. If
you have heavy clay, incorporate some
horticultural grit to increase drainage.
AT ITS BEST
Summer to early autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
2½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Well-rotted organic matter
Spade
All-purpose fertilizer
SET OUT THE PLANTS
1. Pampas grass, Cortaderia
selloana ‘Aureolineata’
2. Cortaderia selloana ‘Pumila’
3. Feather grass, Stipa
calamagrostis
4. Stipa splendens
5. Miscanthus sinensis
‘Malepartus’
5
The Miscanthus and pampas
(Cortaderia) are the tallest grasses,
so set them toward the back of the border,
leaving space at the front for the feather
grasses (Stipa). Allow about 4 ft (1.2 m)
between the larger grasses for them to
spread, and 30 in (75 cm ) between the
smaller ones.
PLANTING AND AFTERCARE
1
2
Plant grasses at the same depth
as they were in their original
containers and mulch with gravel to help
suppress weeds. Keep the plants well
watered for the first year until they are
established. Leave the dried stems on
the plants to overwinter, and in early
spring, cut them down almost to ground
level to allow new growth to emerge.
4
3
Rustle and sway p
This bold group of grasses creates a dynamic
effect as their plumes and foliage dance in
the breeze. The tall grasses grow to about
6 ft (1.8 m), while the shorter feather grasses
(Stipa) at the front reach 3 ft (1 m) in height.
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Planting options
There are many grasses to choose from
and most require free-draining soil and
a sunny site. For a smaller area, select
the more compact cultivars—you will find
a large selection available by mail order
from specialist nurseries.
1 Helictotrichon sempervirens; Hs3 ft
(1 m) 2 Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’;
H5 ft (1.5 m) s3 ft (1 m) 3 Miscanthus
sinensis ‘Zebrinus’; H8 ft (2.5 m) s4 ft
(1.2 m) 4 Pennisetum alopecuroides; H30 in
(75 cm ) s3 ft (1 m)
53
54
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Make a family garden
Creating a plot that children and parents will both enjoy is not easy.
The key is to provide kids with space to play without filling it with
garish toys, while setting aside a relaxing area for grown-ups to relax.
COMBINING PLAY WITH PLANTING
Research shows that children and adults
benefit mentally and physically from being
in a natural environment. So although it is
tempting to buy a plastic swingset and set
it in the center of the lawn, it may not be
very beneficial for your children in the long
run. Instead, surround play areas with plants
that children will enjoy, such as cheerful
sunflowers (see pp.64–65) and those that
attract butterflies (see pp.352–353).
Children’s interests change rapidly, and
what they like one year will be passed over
the next. Prevent boredom setting in by
providing toys that are not permanent
fixtures, and will seem new and exciting
time after time. Tents are a great choice,
appealing to all ages, and offering limitless
opportunities for imaginative play. All you
need is an area of lawn to pitch one on.
Growing fruit and vegetables allows children
to take a real interest in gardening; sowing
seeds and watching their plants grow gives
young ones a real sense of achievement.
Plastic sandboxes often languish unloved
once the novelty has worn off, but one
made from a raised bed can be converted
into a small vegetable plot, the perfect size
for little hands to tend their first crops.
a Raise your play
This sandbox is made from a timber raised bed, which you can buy as a kit, or make yourself
(see pp.254–255). When children outgrow the sand, fill the bed with colorful sunflowers, edible
flowers, such as nasturtiums, and quick-growing vegetables.
a Green fingers
Children enjoy the responsibility of looking
after their own projects, so why not
encourage them to grow their own food
and learn how plants develop?
TOP TIP: SIMPLE SWINGS
You can make a simple swing from
a thick rope attached securely to a
sturdy tree branch. Tie an old tyre
to it to make a traditional swing,
checking that it will hold your child
by swinging on it yourself first.
Alternatively, knot the rope at
intervals for children to climb
up. Adult supervision is always
advisable when small children are
using any type of play equipment.
a Swing seat
Play equipment need not be expensive
or store-bought. A rope and old tyre are
all you need to keep children happy. Just
make sure your child is strong enough
to hold onto the rope when swinging.
Water and wildlife
If your children can swim and are old enough to understand the
dangers of water, ponds offers more play opportunities than almost
any other garden feature. They are easy to build (see pp.324–327)
and will soon attract a wealth of wildlife to your garden.
BE SAFE
Small children can drown in just
a few inches of water, so wait until
yours are old enough to appreciate
the dangers before installing a
water feature. If you have older
children with younger siblings, fit
a custom-made metal grill over the
water surface and sure it will take
the weight of a child, should he
or she fall.
sloped so they can get out if they
fall in, and plant around the sides
to provide them with cover and
habitats. Frogs and toads will be
drawn to any pond, large or small,
and in spring will fill the water with
spawn. Other creatures to look out
for include water beetles, pond
skaters, water snails, newts,
damselflies and dragonflies.
WILDLIFE HAVEN
a Aquatic homes
Wrap planting around your pond to create shelter for wildlife,
such as birds, frogs and toads.
As soon as your pond is installed,
birds and small animals will visit
to drink and bathe, and many other
creatures will become permanent
residents. Make sure the sides are
o Beauty and the beast
Look out for dragonfly nymphs as they climb from the water
and shed their skins, before emerging as adults.
Plots for pets
o Dog territory
Boisterous dogs can
devastate gardens by
trampling plants, so
grow your favorites
in raised beds to
help reduce the risk.
Also, weigh down
containers so they
won't be knocked
over accidentally.
Sharing your garden with pets can be a fun and fulfilling experience,
and by catering for their needs, as well as your own, you can all
live happily together in the same plot.
PET SPACES
Small pets, such as guinea pigs
and rabbits, are happiest in a secure
run on a lawn. If you move the
run every few days, you may even
eliminate the need to mow the
grass altogether.
Dogs that have free reign of the
garden can present problems if they
are not trained. Set aside a quiet
area, such as behind a shed, for
your dog to use as a toilet. After
a few weeks, and treats for good
behavior, he or she will only go
there. Raised beds and borders
edged with low hedging will also
help deter your dog from rampaging
through your favorite flowers.
Cats are not as easily trained
as dogs, especially in their toilet
habits. Encourage them to use a
litter box, and deter them from
using the borders by inserting
short pieces of cane in the areas
where they are likely to dig. Cats
like bare soil, so these are the
areas to concentrate on.
Kitty treat p
Cats adore the scent
of catmint (Nepeta)
and love to roll
around in it. Give
your pet a treat and
set aside a bed for
this pretty plant.
56
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Make a shady rockery
Transform a dull, shady corner into a rockery for spring interest.
Many shade-loving plants, such as ferns, ivies, and violas, love
the cool, moist but well-drained conditions and will thrive here.
WHEN TO START
Autumn
AT ITS BEST
Spring
TIME TO COMPLETE
6 hours: preparation and planting
YOU WILL NEED
Topsoil (if not working on
a sloping site)
Attractive large stones
Bugle, Ajuga reptans
Creeping phlox, Phlox stolonifera
Dog’s-tooth violet, Erythronium
Hardy ferns
Hostas
Ivies, Hedera
Violas
SELECT AND PLACE STONES
Set rocks into the soil, with larger
ones at the base of the slope and
smaller ones at the top. Bury one third
of each stone, and angle them so that
rain will run off into the soil.
PREPARE THE SOIL
If you have a flat site, create a
slope with weed-free topsoil in
autumn, so it has time to settle. If you
have a slope already, weed it thoroughly.
Dig in some grit if the drainage is poor.
CHECK PLANTING POSITIONS
In spring, buy your plants. Arrange
them around the rock garden while
they are still in their pots, to see where
they will look best, before deciding on
their final planting positions.
PLANT AND MULCH
Plant in the pockets between the
stones, then water well. Mulch with
composted bark, or similar, to help keep
moisture sealed in and to suppress weeds.
Water regularly for the first year.
Versatile ferns
Ferns are a wonderful choice for shady
areas. They will grow in the tiniest of
dank crevices, as long as they have
enough moisture and a glimmer of
light. Sunken pits echo the way ferns
sometimes lodge themselves in
subterranean drains and peer up from
the gloom. You can also try growing
them under a bench, where little else
will thrive. For dry sites under trees
or close to walls, try the male fern,
Dryopteris filix-mas, or the evergreen
hart’s tongue fern, Asplenium
scolopendrium. The royal fern, Osmunda
regalis, is perfect for damp areas and
looks very effective planted near water.
a Cool perspective
Ferns don’t mind shade, so grow them where little
else will thrive, such as under garden furniture.
o Star performers
Ferns are ideal for these mesh-covered troughs,
which were designed as a green car-parking bay.
SELECTIONS >>
58
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Dry shade solutions
Shady, dry areas, such as those beneath trees and large shrubs, are some
of the trickiest for plants to cope with. Choose sun-lovers for these sites and
you will have scrawny, dried-out plants stretching for light. However, there
are a few stalwarts that will not only cope, but thrive in such a spot. To
give them a head start, dig large planting holes and mix plenty of wellrotted manure with the soil, then apply lots of water while they settle in.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Kerria japonica ‘Golden Guinea’; h6 ft (2 m) s8 ft (2.4 m) ABd H9–1 2 Deadnettle, Lamium
maculatum ‘White Nancy’; h6 in (15 cm) s3 ft (1 m) BCdE H8–1 3 Lungwort, Pulmonaria ‘Lewis
Palmer’; h14 in (35 cm) s18 in (45 cm) BCE H8–5
(30 cm) BCde H9–5
4 Saxifraga stolonifera ‘Tricolor’; hs12 in
5 Brunnera macrophylla ‘Dawson’s White’; h18 in (45 cm) s24 in (60 cm)
BCDe H7–1 6 Viburnum davidii; hs5 ft (1.5 m) ABde H9–3
Group; h3 in (8 cm) s4 in (10 cm) BCd H9–5
7 Cyclamen coum Pewter
8 Jacob’s ladder, Polemonium caeruleum; h24 in
(60 cm) s12 in (30 cm)ABDe H9–1 9 Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’; h24 in (60 cm)
s36 in (90 cm) Be H9–2 0 Aquilegia vulgaris ‘Nivea’; h36 in (90 cm) s18 in (45 cm)ABde
H8–1
q Fringe cups, Tellima grandiflora; h32 in (80 cm) s12 in (30 cm) ABde H8–1
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
59
SELECTIONS >>
<<
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Tropical retreat
You don’t need to live in the tropics to create a lush, leafy, junglelike
corner in which to hide away from the stresses of the world. Choose
sculptural plants with dramatic leaves in shades of green.
CHOOSE THE SITE
WHEN TO START
Spring
All these plants prefer a sunny site,
but will tolerate light shade. They
also need to be sheltered from strong
winds, which could damage their foliage.
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
PREPARE TO PLANT
4 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Spade
Well-rotted organic matter
Mulch
1. Loquat, Eriobotrya japonica
2. Phormium cookianum subsp.
hookeri ‘Tricolor’
3. Polystichum setiferum
Clear the border of weeds and dig
in organic matter over the site.
Arrange the plants in a tiered jungle
effect, then plant and water well (see
pp.30–31 for planting method). Mulch
with bark to give the feel of a forest floor.
AFTERCARE
All of these plants are quite hardy,
except Musa basjoo. In winter,
surround it with chicken wire attached to
stakes, and fill with hay (see also p.408).
In mild areas, wrap it with garden fleece.
4. Arum lily, Zantedeschia
aethiopica
5. Musa basjoo
5
1
4
2
3
61
62
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Plant bare-root bamboo
Bare-root bamboo plants are significantly cheaper than those grown in pots, and are a good option if
you need several to create a screen, as shown here. You may also get a bare-root plant if a friend has
sections to spare. Plant them as soon as you get them home to prevent the roots drying out.
<<
KEEP ROOTS MOIST
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn
Because the roots are not in soil
and will dry out and die very
rapidly, you must keep them moist before
planting. Place a plastic bag filled with
moss around the roots, and keep the
moss damp until the last minute, when
you are ready to plant.
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1–2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Bare-root bamboo
Plastic bag
Spade
Compost
Watering can
Root barrier
Garden moss
ADD ORGANIC MATTER
o Elegant screen
Bamboo makes a perfect screen to hide ugly
objects in the garden or to ensure privacy.
Evergreen, clothed in foliage all the way up the
stem, and with an upright habit, it takes up less
space, if controlled, than the average hedge.
Dig a hole larger than the rootball
and break up the base using a fork.
In the bottom, add a layer of well-rotted
organic matter, such as garden compost or
manure, and mix it in lightly. Add more
organic matter to the excavated soil from
the hole and mix this together also.
PLANT AND FIRM
IN BAMBOO
PLACE BAMBOO
INTO HOLE
Unwrap the bamboo,
gently tease out the roots,
and carefully lower it into
the planting hole. Keeping
the plant upright, add the
organic matter and soil mix,
firming down as you go to
make sure there are no air
pockets between the roots.
Fill in the hole
around the stems, making
sure the plant is at the
same level as originally
planted. To do this, look for
an earthy tidemark on the
stems, showing where the
soil had previously come
up. Firm well and water.
TOP TIP: CONTROLLING BAMBOOS
AFTERCARE
Keep the immediate area
weed-free while the plant
is establishing. Water regularly
during dry spells to ensure that
the plant roots do not dry out.
Thin out and tidy established
clumps every two years in
early spring, before they begin
shooting. Cut any dead or weak
stems down to ground level.
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Some bamboos are “runners” and
once established will send out roots
all over the garden. These plants need
to be contained with a root barrier
made from a nonperishable material,
such as rigid plastic or slate. Dig a
narrow trench around the clump and
insert your barrier. Cut and remove all
peripheral roots, then fill in with soil.
63
64
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Sow an annual border
Annual bedding plants are great in pots and window boxes, but they
can also be planted straight into the summer border, where they
offer a quick and colorful way to fill bare patches in new gardens.
Sunflowers
From towering giants to knee-high
midgets, sunflowers are real crowdpleasers, and always a hit with children.
WHEN TO SOW
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Mid- to late summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
20 mins to sow; 20 mins to plant
YOU WILL NEED
Sunflower seeds
3½ in (7 cm) pots
Seed soil
Garden stakes
String
PLANT SEEDS
In spring, sow sunflower seeds
indoors in a light, warm spot. Sow
a single seed in each pot since they make
large seedlings. Coir pots (above) can be
planted whole, straight into the soil.
SUPPORT YOUNG PLANTS
WATER FREQUENTLY
Water seedlings regularly, and
keep them indoors or in a warm
greenhouse until mid-spring. Then put
them outside during the day, bringing
them indoors at night, to harden off.
Prepare a suitable area of soil
outside, and once the risk of frost
has passed, plant the sunflowers out into
the garden. Their young stems bend easily,
so tie them to short stakes. For extra big
sunflowers, choose a large cultivar. Feed
and water your plants all summer.
Planting options
Flowering annuals come in a wealth of
shapes and sizes, and even scents; many
are tender, so plant outside after the frosts.
Cosmos has delicate, ferny foliage, with
flowers that float on tall, delicate stems. In
contrast, Iberis scrambles across the soil and
offers useful groundcover. Senecio’s silvery
foliage provides a wonderful foil for flowers,
and low-growing Gazania is a dazzler, adding
vivid color to a sunny spot.
1 Cosmos bipinnatus; H3 ft (1 m) s18 in (45 cm)
2 Senecio cineraria; Hs24 in (60 cm)
3 Gazania; H8 in (20 cm) s10 in (25 cm)
4 Candytuft, Iberis umbellata; H12 in (30 cm)
s9 in (23 cm)
o Pot of gold
Not all sunflowers are giants. The shorter varieties,
such as ‘Teddy Bear’ and ‘Dwarf Yellow Spray’, are
planted alongside bedding geraniums (Pelargonium),
Salvia farinacea ‘Strata’, nasturtiums, and black-eyed
Susan (Thunbergia alata), in this colorful bed.
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Cottage dream
The gentle hues and varying textures of cottage garden perennials can be used to create beautiful
combinations in an informal planting design. This is the classic sun-loving border of many gardeners’
imaginations, with spires of lofty delphiniums piercing through lower mounds of colorful flowers.
PREPARE THE SOIL
WHEN TO START
Autumn
AT THEIR BEST
Midsummer
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours preparation; 3 hours to plant
YOU WILL NEED
Spade
Well-rotted organic matter
Grit
In autumn, clear the border of all
weeds. Dig in organic matter, such
as garden compost or well-rotted manure.
Ideally you should dig down one spade
depth (see p.21), incorporating organic
matter into the top 6 in (15 cm) of soil.
On heavy soils, spread a layer of grit
over the whole area, and dig it in to
improve drainage.
SET OUT THE PLANTING PLAN
1. Delphinium Black Knight Group
2. Anchusa azurea
3. Alstroemeria ligtu hybrids
4. Achillea filipendulina ‘Gold Plate’
5. Salvia sclarea var. turkestanica
6. Verbascum olympicum
TOP TIP: STAKING
Many perennials, such as delphiniums
and Achillea, become top-heavy
and require support. If you provide
supports early in the season, plants
will grow through and disguise them,
and they will still look natural and
attractive. Plants staked at a later
date, once they have already flopped,
tend to always look trussed up.
Buy plants in spring and set them
out across the border, taking time
to arrange them and to visualize how they
will grow in relation to each other. The
classic arrangement is taller plants at
the back and shorter plants at the front,
but consider using tall, airy types, such
as Achillea or Verbena bonariensis,
farther forward.
AFTERCARE
6
1
5
2
4
3
Some of the plants will need
staking as they grow (see right),
and in their first year they will require
regular watering to help them establish.
Although these herbaceous perennials die
back in winter, where possible, leave their
stems to stand until spring. Then cut
everything back to the ground to neaten
the border and allow space for new
growth. This is also a good time to apply
a general-purpose granular fertilizer
and a mulch of well-rotted organic matter.
a Stop the flop
Use short stakes to support tall flowers,
such as delphiniums (top left). Plants with
moundlike growth will grow through and
be supported by twiggy sticks put in place in
spring (top right). Linked metal stakes serve
a similar purpose (above).
67
SELECTIONS >>
68
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Cottage garden plants
There are many different plants that suit a cottage garden, but as a rule,
the simpler ones that have not been highly bred look most at home in
such a design. Plants such as anemones, Cirsium, and Anthemis create
easy-going, loose arrangements, while the tall flower spires of lupins and
hollyhocks provide structure. Cottage garden plants are generally loved
by bees and other nectar-seeking insects.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Monkshood, Aconitum carmichaelii Arendsii Group; h4 ft (1.2 m) s12 in (30 cm) ABdE H8–3
2 Golden marguerite, Anthemis tinctoria ‘E.C. Buxton’; h24 in (60 cm) s36 in (90 cm) Ad H8–3
3 Aquilegia formosa; h24 in (60 cm) s18 in (45 cm) ABE H7–1 4 Coreopsis verticillata
‘Moonbeam’; h20 in (50 cm) s24 in (60 cm)ABd H9–1 5 Cirsium rivulare ‘Atropurpureum’;
h4 ft (1.2 m) s24 in (60 cm) ADe H8–1 6 Bleeding heart, Dicentra spectabilis ‘Alba’; h4 ft (1.2 m)
s18 in (45 cm) BE H9–1
cm) ABe H7–5
7 Anemone hupehensis ‘Hadspen Abundance’; h24 in (60 cm) s16 in (40
8 Meadow cranesbill, Geranium pratense ‘Mrs. Kendall Clark’; hs24 in (60 cm)
ABDe H8–1 9 Lupin, Lupinus ‘Inverewe Red’; h36 in (90 cm) s24 in (60 cm) ABD H10–6
0 Hollyhock, Alcea rosea Chater’s Double Group; h8 ft (2.4 m) s24 in (60 cm)Ad H10–3
q Astrantia major; h36 in (90 cm) s18 in (45 cm) ABe H7–1
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
69
SELECTIONS >>
<<
a Autumnal tones
This design looks beautiful in autumn, when the seedheads of
late-flowering perennials offer shades of copper and bronze.
a Winter structure
The plants have a strong structure, so their stems and seedheads
remain intact all winter, for the benefit of birds and wildlife.
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Prairie partners
Popularized by Dutch garden designer Piet Oudolf, prairie planting
designs use dramatic swathes of grasses alongside perennials that
have a strong structure in winter. Particularly suitable for larger
gardens, these borders are often at their most beautiful in autumn
and winter, a time when many perennial beds are lackluster and dull.
PREPARATION
WHEN TO START
Spring or autumn
AT ITS BEST
Late summer to early winter
TIME TO COMPLETE
4 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Horticultural grit for clay soils
1. Deschampsia cespitosa
2. Sedum spectabile
3. Echinacea purpurea ‘Rubinstern’
4. Lythrum virgatum
5. Eupatorium
It is important to dig over the soil
thoroughly and incorporate plenty
of organic matter, such as well-rotted
manure, before you start planting. This
style of gardening uses groups of plants
that enjoy similar well-drained but moist
soil, so you will also have to incorporate
grit into heavy clay soil (see pp.14–15).
PLANTING LAYOUT
The prairie planting style uses
interlocking swathes of plants,
with each swathe comprising just one
species or type of plant. To create this
effect, you will need lots of plants, so buy
young ones to minimize costs. If you have
a small garden, follow the same rules
for larger plots but reduce the number of
different species used. Set your plants out
in teardrop-shaped swathes, with the
narrow sections neatly slotting together.
5
CUT BACK IN SPRING
1
This border is designed to look
good all winter long, so you must
resist the temptation to cut it all back or
neaten it too much in autumn. Most
cutting back can be left until early spring,
when new shoots appear at the base of
the plants. If some areas start to look
really messy, neaten stray stems earlier.
4
3
2
71
72
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Flowers for cutting and drying
One of the greatest pleasures of owning a garden is growing an abundance of flowers, many of which
can be picked and brought indoors to decorate the house as well. Some are particularly well suited
to cutting, while others can be harvested and dried to last into winter and beyond.
Cutting
FLOWERS FOR CUTTING
Many plants can be cut frequently with little impact on the garden display; they just
keep on producing more flowers. Plant a cutting border full of such varieties.
Allium
Alstroemeria
Antirrhinum
Chrysanthemum
Cleome
Cornflower,
Centaurea
Cosmos
Daffodil
Dahlia
Foxglove, Digitalis
Peony (above)
Rudbeckia
Sunflower
Sweet pea
Sweet William
Tulip
Zinnia
WHEN TO START
Autumn or spring
AT THEIR BEST
Spring to late summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
5 hours for sowing and pricking out
2 hours for planting
YOU WILL NEED
Seeds of annuals
Bulbs
Perennials
Spade
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Watering can
PLANT IN SWATHES
Clear the area of weeds, and dig
in organic matter. In autumn, plant
bulbs and mark their positions (see
pp.40–41). Then, in spring, plant large
swathes of perennials and annuals (see
pp.30–31 and pp.108–110), so you can cut
the flowers regularly without leaving large
gaps in the border.
PICK AND MIX
When you are planning to pick your
flowers, water the area well the
night before. This helps stems plump up,
and the cut flowers will keep for longer.
It is best to cut first thing in the morning,
plunging the stems immediately into
a deep bucket of water. Always cut to
just above a leaf.
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Drying
Some flowers retain their colors and
scents when they are cut and dried,
and can be used in flower arrangements
throughout the year. Seedheads look
striking in indoor arrangements too, but
leave some on the plants if you want
a dramatic winter border.
WHEN TO START
Summer to autumn
AT THEIR BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
About 2 weeks for drying
YOU WILL NEED
Flowers for drying
Rubber bands
Tacks or pins
Hooks or paperclips
String
PLANT AND SOW
Several perennials are useful as
dried flowers, but you may want
to sow some annuals too. Sow half-hardy
annuals into modules or pots indoors in
spring, planting out when all risk of frost
has passed (see pp.108–110). Hardy
annuals can be sown direct in autumn
or spring. Water, feed, and deadhead
as you would any other plant.
CUT IN DRY WEATHER
Pick flowers for drying in fine
weather to avoid excess moisture
on the foliage and petals. Most flowers
will dry better if they are cut before they
are fully open. Pick roses just as the buds
begin to open, and lavender stems as the
top petals start to emerge.
AIR-DRY THE BLOOMS
Tie a few stems together with
string or a rubber band. Use a
kitchen hook or a paper clip to attach the
band to a line of string or tie them to a
bamboo cane. Then fix the string or cane
to the ceiling
in a cool,
airy place.
Because
strong light
bleaches
out the
colors, it is
best to
hang them
in the dark,
or at least
in low
light.
FLOWERS FOR DRYING
Achillea (above)
Cornflower,
Centaurea
Globe thistle,
Echinops
Hare’s tail,
Lagurus
Lavender
Love-in-a-mist,
Nigella
Quaking grass,
Briza
Sea holly,
Eryngium
Statice,
Limonium
(above)
Strawflower,
Xerochrysum
(below)
73
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Textured edge
A striking design such as this should be treated as a modern take
on bedding. The perennials will last far longer than annual plants,
but the formal effect will eventually lose its crispness as they grow.
MARK OUT YOUR PATTERN
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn or spring
Chose a sunny site and improve
the soil with organic matter before
planting, then use sand or string to mark
out lines to create the formal, parallel
effect. Space out the plants to allow room
for them to spread.
AT ITS BEST
Early summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
PLANT OUT
YOU WILL NEED
Sand or string
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
1. Iris chrysographes 'Black Knight'
2. Salvia x sylvestris ‘Mainacht'
3. Heuchera ‘Beauty Colour’
Plant the tall Persicaria at the back,
and the Heuchera and Salvia at the
front to form a neat carpet. Use accent
plants, such as Angelica, to add interest
to the pattern.
AFTERCARE
4. Feather grass, Stipa tenuissima
5. Persicaria microcephala ‘Red
Dragon’
6. Angelica archangelica
You may have to lift and replant
every few years to keep the pattern
strong. Experiment with rows of different
plants until you find a combination that is
well suited to your conditions.
6
1
5
4
2
3
75
76
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Lay a gravel bed
Drought-tolerant plants that originate from arid, rocky places look most at home in a gravel garden.
Ideal for a hot, sunny spot, a gravel border is easy to make, and can create a mosaic of colors and
textures in areas where other plants struggle to survive.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
6 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Drought-loving plants
Horticultural grit
Washed sand
Landscape fabric
Scissors
Galvanized staples
Watering can
Gravel
Boulders
PREPARE THE AREA
Dig over the area thoroughly and
remove any weeds. You need a
well-drained soil to keep drought-tolerant
plants happy, so dig in washed sand and
horticultural grit to make sure that yours
drains freely, even in wet weather.
LAY MEMBRANE
Weed-suppressing membrane or
landscape fabric allows rain to soak
through to the roots, yet prevents weeds
from growing. Lay it over the entire area,
overlapping the edges and pinning them
down with galvanized staples as you go.
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
CUT CROSSES FOR PLANTS
Place your plants in their positions
on the landscape fabric, and then
arrange them to create a pleasing display.
For each plant, cut a cross in the fabric,
and fold back the flaps.
Self-seeded gravel garden
A slightly different style of gravel garden uses no landscape fabric. Plants
are left to self-seed and create a wonderfully natural effect, but make sure
you remove every scrap of perennial weed during the preparation.
ENCOURAGE SEEDING
PLANT THROUGH FABRIC
Dig a hole and plant your plants
at the same depth they were at
in their pots. Add a little fertilizer to the
back-filled soil, and firm it in. Replace
the fabric to fit around the stems.
Both weeds and seedlings of desired
plants will spring up in a gravel bed, and
it is important to learn the difference
between them. You may have to allow
weeds to grow larger than you would
ideally like to identify them. In addition,
take a relaxed approach to deadheading;
seeds will never get the chance to form
if the flowers are cut off the moment
they start to fade.
1 Eryngium giganteum H36 in (90 cm)
S12 in (30 cm) 2 Meconopsis cambrica
H18 in (45 cm) S10 in (25 cm) 3 Nigella
damascena Persian Jewel Group H16 in (40
cm) S9 in (23 cm) 4 Foxglove, Digitalis
purpurea H5 ft (1.5 m) S24 in (60 cm)
SPREAD GRAVEL MULCH
Once all of the plants have been
watered in, spread a 2 in (5 cm)
layer of gravel over the entire area. You
may need to top this up occasionally to
keep the garden looking its best. Water
the plants in dry spells for the first year.
OTHER PLANTING OPTIONS
Alchemilla
mollis
Alyssum
Aquilegias
Eschscholzia
Feverfew
Nasturtiums
Shirley poppies
Snapdragon
Stipa tenuissima
Verbena
bonariensis
77
SELECTIONS >>
78
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Mediterranean-style plants
Many of the plants that we associate with vacations abroad grow well in
cooler climates, particularly in a well-drained, sandy soil. Choose those with
bold shapes and silvery foliage to evoke Mediterranean memories, and
throw in a few with vivid flowers, such as Hibiscus, to brighten things up.
Keep plants with aromatic leaves, such as Cistus, nearby. They release spicy
oils as the sun warms them, and will transport you back to lazy days.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Rock rose, Cistus x dansereaui ‘Decumbens’; h16 in (40 cm) s24 in (60 cm) Ad H8–7 2 Viper’s
bugloss, Echium vulgare ‘Blue Bedder’; h20 in (50 cm) s12 in (30 cm) Ad H8–1 3 Phormium
‘Sundowner’; hs6 ft (2 m) Ad H10–1
(50 cm) Ad H8–5
H8–5
4 Sea holly, Eryngium x tripartitum; h32 in (80 cm) s20 in
5 Myrtle spurge, Euphorbia myrsinites; h4 in (10 cm) s12 in (30 cm) Ad
6 Eriobotrya japonica; hs25 ft (8 m) Ad H12–8
s6 ft (2 m) Ad H12–1
7 Oleander, Nerium oleander; h10 ft (3 m)
8 Cardoon, Cynara cardunculus; h 5 ft (1.5 m) s4 ft (1.2 m) Ad H9–1
9 Anthemis punctata subsp. cupaniana; h12 in (30 cm) s36 in (90 cm) Ad H9–6
syriacus ‘Boule de Feu’; h10 ft (3 m) s6 ft (2 m) Ad H9–1
hs12 in (30 cm) Ad H8–5
0 Hibiscus
q Lavandula angustifolia ‘Nana Alba’;
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
79
SELECTIONS >>
<<
80
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Plant by a hedge
Hedges make beautiful backdrops to beds and borders, as well as providing superb habitats for wildlife,
but they present their own problems. The soil close to a hedge is usually dry and it can shade the
planting in front, but choose carefully and both plants and hedge will thrive.
PLANTING IN A SUNNY SITE
In south-facing gardens, hedges can help shade
plants that receive the full force of the summer
sun almost all day. However, for both the hedge
and plants to succeed, they need sufficient
water. When planting (see pp.192–197 for
methods) dig plenty of organic matter, such
as well-rotted manure, into the soil before you
start, and mulch around the hedge annually
with more organic matter. This should help
keep the hedge happy. Select drought-tolerant
plants for the beds, as a mature hedge will
suck out much of the soil water. Plant about
18 in (45 cm) in front of the hedge, and again
dig organic matter into the soil and mulch to
help it retain moisture.
a p Sun worship
Cirsium rivulare and Geum rivale are
combined here in front of a mixed deciduous
hedge to produce an airy, informal effect
(above). Lavender tolerates the dry conditions
in front of this smooth yew hedge, creating
an elegant line of purple flower spikes in
summer (right).
PLANNING FOR SHADY AREAS
Your choice of plants for borders in dense shade in front of a
hedge will be limited, since only a few have adapted to the
extremes of drought and darkness. When planning a hedge, try
to site it where it will not shade the beds in front all day; if you
have inherited a hedge that does this, select plants that can
tolerate these difficult conditions (see pp.58–59).
You will have a wider choice of plants for areas that receive
sun for part of the day, but moisture retention will still present
a problem here, so dig plenty of organic matter into the soil.
In addition, you could lay a trickle hose (a perforated hose pipe
that seeps water into the soil) around the border. In these
damper conditions, many woodland plants, such as Geranium
phaeum, foxgloves (Digitalis), bleeding heart (Dicentra), and
Japanese anemones (Anemone x hybrida) will thrive.
o Flowery picture
The hedge here provides a dark backdrop to the pale foxgloves
and pink roses, which will tolerate some shade, and annual
tobacco plants (Nicotiana). The Alchemilla mollis in the
foreground is happy almost anywhere.
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
DESIGNER TRICKS
Where space allows, a
wide margin between the
hedge and border allows a
much greater plant choice
and less maintenance
because the plants will
not require watering as
frequently. Turf over the
area between the hedge
and the border, or opt for a
paved, decked, or bark-chip
walkway to separate them.
Another designer trick is
to make a “fedge,” which
is simply a chain-link or
wooden fence covered
with ivy. Ideal for smaller
gardens where a deep
hedge is not an option,
a fedge will still draw
moisture from the soil,
but to a lesser extent.
a p Simple solutions
This “fedge” (above) is a chain-link fence with
ivy growing through it, providing a super-slim
screen to enhance the bright perennials in front.
For larger gardens (right) a border set about 3 ft
(1 m) from the hedge allows sun-loving shrubs
and perennials to thrive.
Planting options
Unless your border faces south, and is sunny
for most of the day, select shade-tolerant
plants to grow in front of hedges.
CONTRAST COLOURS AND TEXTURES
Check plant labels before you buy and select
those whose foliage is not exactly the same color
as your hedge, or they will simply disappear into
the background. Pastels and white flowers show
up best against a dark yew (Taxus) hedge, and
large-leaved plants work well with hornbeam
(Carpinus) or beech (Fagus) hedges that have
a more textured look. Dark foliage creates a
striking contrast when matched with golden
privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium ‘Aureum’) or shrubby
honeysuckle (Lonicera nitida ‘Baggesen’s Gold’).
The following plants are all good choices to plant
in beds in front of hedges:
1 Bergenia x schmidtii; h12 in (30 cm) s24 in (60 cm) 2 Hypericum calycinum;
h24 in (60 cm) sindefinite 3 Maianthemum racemosum; h36 in (90 cm) s24 in
(60 cm) 4 Epimedium x versicolor; E12 in (30 cm) 5 Campanula poscharskyana;
h6 in (15 cm) s24 in (60 cm) 6 Tricyrtis formosana; h32 in (80 cm) s18 in (45 cm)
81
82
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Create an easy-care border
This bold mix brings together rich colors and contrasting flowers and foliage to create an easy-care summer
border. Ideal for free-draining soil and a sunny site, these plants rarely need watering once established.
PREPARE THE SOIL
WHEN TO START
Early spring
AT ITS BEST
Summer
1
TIME TO COMPLETE
2
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Horticultural grit
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Spade
All-purpose granular fertilizer
Choose a sunny, open position and,
a week before planting, spread
an 3 in (8 cm) layer of organic matter
over the soil, and dig it into the top 6 in
(15 cm). Clay soils will also require
horticultural grit to improve drainage.
PLANT THE PERENNIALS
Starting at the back of the border,
plant the Crocosmia, with the
Heliopsis and Sedum in front (see steps
on pp.30–31). Take care not to bury their
stems, which may cause them to rot.
4
1. Montbretia, Crocosmia
‘Bressingham Blaze’
2. Heliopsis helianthoides
Loraine Sunshine
3. Lavandula angustifolia
Blue Cushion
4. Sedum telephium
(Atropurpureum Group)
‘Bressingham Purple’
Easy-care shrubs
For a really low-maintenance border, try these hardy shrubs.
They look after themselves once established, and tolerate
periods of drought. Simply trim them annually to keep them
in shape, removing dead, diseased, or damaged stems.
1 Brachyglottis (Dunedin Group) ‘Sunshine’ (evergreen, prefers
sun); h5 ft (1.5 m) s6 ft (2 m) 2 Choisya x dewitteana ‘Aztec
Pearl’ (evergreen, prefers sun); hs8 ft (2.5 m) 3 Mahonia x
wagneri cultivar (evergreen, prefers shade); h32 in (80 cm) s3 ft
(1 m) 4 Viburnum sieboldii (deciduous, prefers sun or partial
shade); hs12 ft (4 m)
PLANT THE LAVENDER
3
Plant a line of lavender at the front,
(see steps on pp.82–83), ensuring
that the stems are above the soil. Spread
a gravel mulch. Water the plants regularly
for the first year, until they are established.
Apply a granular fertilizer each spring.
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Creative cubes
Originally used by the construction industry, galvanized wire mesh crates, known as “gabions,” have been
adopted by designers for modern garden landscapes. This exciting show garden is easy to recreate on
a smaller scale—buy the gabions at a garden center, or commission a specialist to make them for you.
STACK THE CRATES
WHEN TO START
Autumn
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
3–4 days
YOU WILL NEED
Gabions
Flagstones or stones of your choice
Wooden box or foam cube
Spirit level
Thick nylon pantyhose
Topsoil or soil-based mix
Well-rotted organic matter
All-purpose granular fertilizer
1. Gunnera manicata
2. Astilboides tabularis
3. Hosta undulata var. albomarginata
4. Mind-your-own-business,
Soleirolia soleirolii
5. Silver birch, Betula utilis var.
jacquemontii
This garden is made from gabions
stacked together to create the
structure and surface. Simply fill them
with flagstones and set them on the soil,
checking that they are level with a spirit
level—dig out or add soil beneath them
as necessary. Leave spaces for planting.
Fill more gabions and place them on the
foundation level to create stepping stones
and seats, and leave a few empty to
produce an exciting layered effect.
Crate fillers
You can fill your gabions with almost
anything, from used bottles to wood
offcuts. If you are building a new
garden, look around the site for fillers,
such as bricks, pebbles, and rocks.
MAKE LEAFY GABIONS
To make the planted crates, place
a wooden box or block of foam in
the center of a gabion. Then fill up the
legs of some thick nylon pantyhose with
moist soil, tie the ends, and pack them
around the sides and top of the gabion.
Cut holes in the pantyhose, and plant
small mind-your-own-business plants into
the holes. Keep well watered. The plants
will soon spread to fill out the crates.
PLANT THE BEDS
1
5
4
3
2
o Modular garden
The gabions in this modern design are simply
piled on top of one another to create a textured
effect, with large leafy plants filling the gaps.
In the gaps between the gabions,
fill the planting beds with a
soil-based mix. Work in some well-rotted
organic matter, such as manure or
homemade garden compost, to increase
water retention for these moisture-loving
plants (to make a mini bog garden for the
Gunnera, see pp.330–331). Plant the birch
trees in late autumn (see pp.178–179) and
the other plants in early spring. Keep well
watered for the first year, and during dry
spells thereafter.
Try these crate fillers: 1 Used beer
bottles; wine bottles would also work
well 2 Bricks and clay garden edging
3 Layers of small logs, pebbles, and
slate, which form this beautiful design.
85
86
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Plant dahlia tubers
Once shunned by fashionable gardeners, these flashy, colorful jewels have staged something of a
comeback, and are now considered an essential feature of the mid- to late-summer border, as well
as injecting life into tired autumn gardens. They also provide lots of cut flowers for indoor displays.
WHEN TO PLANT
Late spring
AT THEIR BEST
Midsummer to autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes for planting
YOU WILL NEED
Dahlia tubers
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Slug rings or organic pellets
Stakes and twine for staking
Wooden boxes
Potting mix
Plant labels
PLANT THE TUBERS
Once the danger of frost has
passed, dig a hole 12 in (30 cm)
deep and add a layer of organic matter
to the bottom. Place the tuber in with
the buds pointing up, as well as a stake
for support, and carefully refill with soil.
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Try tropical cannas
Cannas bring tropical color to the late-summer garden, but they
are not entirely hardy. They are tougher than dahlias, though, and
can survive outside in milder areas with the right care.
PINCH OUT SHOOT TIPS
Provide slug protection as young
growth appears. When stems are
12 in (30 cm) high, pinch out the top bud
to encourage bushiness and lots of flowers.
SITING CANNAS
These plants need a hot and
sunny spot to flower well; a
south-facing, sheltered area is ideal.
Also, make sure that your cannas are
not shaded by neighboring plants, or
competing with them for moisture,
which can affect flowering.
IMPROVE THE SOIL
Cannas are thirsty plants, so
improve the soil with organic
matter to help retain moisture. To plant,
dig a hole about 8 in (20 cm) deep and
lay a rhizome in it horizontally. Refill
the hole with soil, water well, and apply
a layer of mulch.
FROST PROTECTION
As soon as the first light frost has
blackened the leaves, cut off the
foliage and dig up the tubers. Place them
somewhere airy and frost free, so that the
stems can dry out fully.
OVERWINTERING
WHEN TO PLANT
Late spring
AT THEIR BEST
Midsummer to autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes for planting
YOU WILL NEED
STORE OVERWINTER
When dry, brush the soil off the
tubers, label them clearly, and plant
them in wooden boxes or large pots of
dry potting mix. Keep them in a cool, dry,
frost-free place until you can plant them
out again the following spring.
Canna rhizomes
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Mulch
Straw
Chicken wire or wooden box
In the fall, after the frost has
blackened the leaves, cut down
the stems. In mild regions, cover the
rhizomes with straw, pinned down with
chicken wire. In colder areas, lift and
store them in dry potting mix, in a cool,
dry, frost-free place, such as a shed.
87
SELECTIONS >>
88
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Dramatic dahlias
The darlings of the gardening design world, dahlias are the glamour pusses
of the mid- to late-summer border, providing sparkle and drama just as
other stars are starting to fade. Choose from simple singles, neat pompons,
star-shaped cactus-types, and dainty collerettes in a wide range of rich
colors. Use them to add color to beds and borders, or to create eye-catching
displays in large containers on a patio or terrace.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
F wet soil
1 ‘Gay Princess’; h5 ft (1.5 m) s30 in (75 cm) Ad 2 ‘Arabian Night’; h4 ft (1.2 m) s24 in (60 cm)
Ad 3 ‘Easter Sunday’; h3 ft (1 m) s24 in (60 cm) Ad 4 ‘Kathryn’s Cupid’; h4 ft (1.2 m)
s24 in (60 cm) Ad 5 ‘Ragged Robin’; h3 ft (1 m) s18 in (45 cm) Ad 6 ‘Yellow Hammer’;
h24 in (60 cm) s18 in (45 cm) Ad 7 ‘Preston Park’; hs18 in (45 cm) Ad 8 ‘Moonfire’; h3 ft
(1 m) s24 in (60 cm) Ad 9 ‘Pink Giraffe’; h30 in (75 cm) s24 in (60 cm) Ad 0 ‘Polar Sight’;
h4 ft (1.2 m) s24 in (60 cm) Ad q ‘Zorro’; h4 ft (1.2 m) s24 in (60 cm) Ad
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
89
SELECTIONS >>
<<
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Contemporary urban mix
You don’t need to rule out vegetables and herbs just because you live in the city. Here, the designer has
created a stylish modern look with a mix of edibles and ornamental flowers in this chic urban garden.
The boxwood and cherry tree provide permanent structure to the ever-changing crops and flowers.
PREPARE TO PLANT
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn to early spring
1. Fig, Ficus carica
AT ITS BEST
Summer
2. Boxwood, Buxus
sempervirens
3. Sweet basil, chili
peppers, and lettuces
TIME TO COMPLETE
4. Pot marjoram
2–3 days
5. Parsley
YOU WILL NEED
6. Daylily, Hemerocallis
Topsoil or soil-based
potting mix
Well-rotted organic
matter
All-purpose granular
fertilizer
7. Rosa ‘Rose of Picardy’
8. Wild cherry, Prunus
avium
9. Outdoor tomatoes
8
1
7
9
2
4
6
5
You can adapt this design to suit your own garden
by creating four rectangular beds that fit your plot.
The herbs, fig, vegetables, and rose prefer an open, sunny site,
while the parsley and daylilies will be happy in the dappled
shade beneath the tree. Enrich the soil with well-rotted organic
matter, and on clay soils dig in grit too (see pp.14–15) because
all the plants used here like moist but well-drained conditions.
3
PLANT THE BED
First, in early autumn, plant the boxwood, rose, and tree,
which form the structural backbone of the design (see
pp.178–179 for tree planting; p.93 for roses; p.36 for planting a
shrub). Also plant the fig
close to the house wall
in early spring (see p.316).
Clip the boxwood into cube
shapes. In late spring,
plant the herbs, lettuces,
and tomatoes in neat rows
in the sunny areas, and the
parsley and daylilies just
beyond the tree canopy.
They have been planted
closer to the tree here than
is recommended because
this is a show garden.
AFTERCARE
Water the tree regularly for the first two years after
planting, and keep the area directly beneath it free from
weeds. The tomatoes require staking and tying in (see pp.272–
273). Water all the plants frequently in dry spells and throughout
the summer. In autumn, buy plug plants of winter and early
spring-cropping cabbages, kale, broccoli, and leeks, to replace
the summer tomatoes, chilies, peppers, and sweet basil.
91
92
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Plant a modern rose garden
Create a contemporary display using disease-resistant roses, such as ‘Winchester Cathedral’ (below),
and pretty perennials for a modern mix of flowers and foliage. This classic white design is easy to
plant and maintain; just follow the steps here for the rose, and on pages 30–31 for the other plants.
<<
7
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
1
6
2
5
3
4
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn or early spring
AT ITS BEST
Early to midsummer
All-purpose granular fertilizer
Mycorrhizal fungi
1. Veronica spicata alba
TIME TO COMPLETE
2. Rosa Winchester Cathedral
(‘Auscat’)
3 hours
3. White violas
YOU WILL NEED
4. Trifolium repens
‘Purpurascens Quadrifolium’
Spade
Heavy-duty gloves
Bamboo stake
Well-rotted organic matter
CHECK PLANTING DEPTH
Place the rose in its container
into the hole and, using a bamboo
stake, check that the graft union (the
swelling at the base of the stems) will
be below the soil surface when the rose
is planted. Remove the rose and apply
some general-purpose fertilizer to the
base of the hole.
PREPARE TO PLANT
Dig a bucketful of organic matter
into the planting area, and mix it
evenly with the soil. Then dig a hole a
little deeper and twice as wide as the pot
that contains the rose.
5. Hardy white geranium
6. Alchemilla mollis
7. Actaea simplex ‘Brunette’
APPLY MYCORRHIZAL FUNGI
Water the rose and leave to drain.
Apply mycorrhizal fungi to the base
of the hole, following the directions on the
package. The roots must come into contact
with the fungi granules after planting as
these help the rose’s root system to
establish. Wearing gloves, tip the rose
from its container and plant in the hole.
FIRM IN SOIL
Backfill around the root ball with
excavated soil. Firm the soil to
remove air pockets with your hands. Water
the rose well, then apply a 2 in (5 cm) layer
of well-rotted organic matter, making sure
that it does not touch the stems. Water
the rose regularly during its first year, and
apply a rose fertilizer each spring.
93
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Autumn impressions
Many borders fade as temperatures dip, but one packed with
grasses, late flowers, and plants with strong, distinctive skeletons
will solve the problem. It will look good through winter too.
PREPARE THE SITE
WHEN TO START
Autumn
The autumn, before you plan
to start planting, carefully clear
the border of all weeds, and then dig
it over thoroughly. Incorporate plenty
of organic matter as you dig (see p.21).
AT ITS BEST
Autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours to prepare; 3 hours to plant
YOU WILL NEED
Organic matter, such as well-rotted
manure
Spade
Watering can
1. Aster x frikartii
PLANT UP
In spring, buy plants and plant
them in the border (see pp.28–29).
Taller grasses, such as Miscanthus, can go
toward the back, with sedums and asters
at the front, and loose drifts of Achillea
threaded throughout the middle.
2. Sedum ’Herbstrfuede’
3. Achillea ‘Walther Funcke’
4. Miscanthus sinensis
5. Feather grass, Stipa tenuissima
AFTERCARE
Water the plants in thoroughly and
apply a mulch of well-rotted
organic matter. In spring, the asters and
Achillea may require staking (see p.67).
Leave the border to stand as it is over
winter, then cut it to the ground in spring.
1
5
2
4
3
95
SELECTIONS >>
96
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Jewel-like berries
Plants with fabulous autumn foliage tend to be on the large side, but there
are many shrubs and perennials with colorful, glossy autumn berries that
will fit into even the smallest of gardens. Plant a selection of these
beauties and you will have plenty to look at once the glories of summer
have faded. Many hang on to their fruits well into winter, providing birds
and other wildlife with a ready supply of food at a lean time of the year.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Spindle tree, Euonymus planipes; hs6 ft (2 m) ABE H9–5
2 Clerodendrum trichotomum
var. fargesii; hs15 ft (5 m) AbE H9–7 3 Gaultheria mucronata ‘Wintertime’; h32 in (80 cm)
s4 ft (1.2 m) BE H9–8
4 Viburnum tinus; hs6 ft (2 m) ACe H10–8
h3 in (7 cm) s10 in (25 cm) Be H9–8
5 Gaultheria tasmanica;
6 Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’; h8 in (20 cm)
s12 in (30 cm) Ad H12–1
7 Silky dogwood, Cornus amomum ‘Blue Cloud’; h10 ft (3 m)
s12 ft (4 m) ABE H8–5
8 Beauty berry, Callicarpa dichotoma; hs4 ft (1.2 m) ABe H8–7
9 Majorcan peony, Paeonia cambessedesii; hs18 in (45 cm) ABe H8–1 0 Leycesteria
formosa; hs6 ft (1.8 m)ABE H9–6
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
97
SELECTIONS >>
<<
98
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Trim a simple topiary
Topiary lends structure and formality to any planting design and makes a useful focal point, whether
grown in a container or planted directly into the border. All you need to bring an overgrown specimen
back into shape, or to make a cone from scratch, are some basic tools, patience, and a good eye.
WHEN TO START
Early summer
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
One boxwood plant, Buxus
sempervirens
Household disinfectant
Sharp long-handled shears
SELECT A HEALTHY PLANT
When choosing a specimen to clip
into topiary, look for one with dense,
healthy growth, unblemished foliage, and
a strong leading stem in the center.
KEEP MOVING AROUND
THE PLANT
Don’t trim the topiary in “sides”—
you risk overclipping one area. Continually
move around the plant, regularly taking
a step back to look at the overall shape.
ASSESS SHAPE FROM TOP
When you have nearly finished,
look down at the central stem
to check that the outline of the cone is
straight and even. Assess the shape all
the way around, and trim accordingly.
START TO TRIM BY EYE
Looking down on the plant, locate
the central stem, which will form
the top of the cone. With shears, trim
around the stem to create the outline.
ROUTINE CARE
Established topiary should be
pruned once or twice a year in
midsummer and early autumn. Never clip
on hot, sunny days to prevent the newly
exposed foliage from being scorched.
<<
BEAUTIFUL BEDS
Tool choices
Creating topiary shapes is much easier if
you have the right tools and always keep
the blades sharp and clean. Although
you can use garden shears to trim cones
and simple shapes, long-handled shears
(far left) are a better choice because they
offer greater control. For more intricate
designs, use topiary shears (below).
TOP TIP: CLEAN CUTS
Boxwood blight is a major disease
of boxwood (Buxus sempervirens),
commonly used for topiary. Protect
your specimens by cleaning your
pruning shears between plants with
a spray of household disinfectant.
o Points of view
Slim topiary cones provide structure in this small
mixed border, as well some vertical emphasis.
99
100 BEAUTIFUL BEDS
>>
Vibrant winter border
Flowers are few and far between in the winter garden, but devote an
area to winter performers, such as bare-stemmed beauties and bright
evergreens, and this season can be as colorful as any other.
START WITH STRUCTURE
WHEN TO PLANT
Spring and late autumn (for trees)
Cornus and Salix grown for colored
bark can be pollarded, so their stems
grow at head–height on a single trunk, or
coppiced, where they grow up from the
ground (see pp.230–31). Plant the pollarded
shrubs at the back of the border, and the
coppiced shrubs at the front.
AT ITS BEST
Winter
TIME TO COMPLETE
6 hours
YOU WILL NEED
PLANT AROUND SHRUBS
Spade
Well-rotted organic matter
All-purpose granular fertilizer
Fill in the border around the structural
plants with low–growing heathers in
contrasting colors, dwarf conifers, and ivies.
Position these plants so they help enhance
the color of the naked stems.
1. Salix alba var. vitellina
'Britzensis'
2. Cornus sericea ‘Flaviramea’
3. Cornus alba ‘Sibirica’
AFTERCARE
4. Dwarf conifers
Water plants regularly throughout
the first year. Trim off dead growth
from all plants so that the area looks good
for winter. Coppice or pollard Cornus and
Salix every few years in spring and feed
with all-purpose fertilizer.
5. Erica carnea
6. Variegated ivies
1
6
5
4
3
2
Creative
Containers
When choosing a container, check out the pros and cons
of different materials and designs to find one that suits both
your style and the plants you plan to pot up. You can then
create exciting displays with easy-to-grow summer flower
seeds, inexpensive plug plants, or mature shrubs and trees
that will add height to your patio. Just remember that all
plants in containers require regular watering and feeding
to keep them in peak condition, especially during summer.
104 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Choosing containers
Almost any vessel can be used as a planter, as long as it has holes
for drainage, and will last one growing season, but take time to
decide what type would best suit your design, and your plants.
SIZE MATTERS
When choosing a pot, remember that large
containers hold more soil and water, and
therefore dry out more slowly than small
planters. So, if you can tend to your pots only
a couple of times a week, avoid tiny
terracotta pots that will need watering up to
twice a day in summer. Also think about the
shape of the pot. If you plant a shrub in an
urnlike container with a slim neck, as the
roots spread within the pot, the plant
effectively becomes locked in. When the
shrub needs repotting, you will almost
certainly have to break the pot.
i Vintage herb display
A rustic set of metal pots of various sizes and
shapes suit cottage garden designs.
i p Chic combinations
These spiky succulents in galvanized metal
containers of different sizes are real show
stoppers, while three simple terracotta
pots make an elegant group when filled
with architectural palms.
GROUPING
To create a pleasing display using a
selection of pots, consider each for its
size, shape, and the material it is made
from. An easy rule of thumb is to opt for
pots made from the same material.
You can then either choose a number of
identical planters for an elegant, modern
display, or group a collection of pots of
different shapes and sizes to create an
informal but harmonious arrangement.
Selecting materials
From bright plastics to traditional clay and wood, containers come in
a vast choice of colors and materials. Some may obviously suit your
garden style and budget, but also be aware that the material a pot
is made from affects its durability, and the maintenance it requires.
TERRACOTTA
Versatile and relatively inexpensive, terracotta pots come in a wide
variety of shapes and sizes, and even colors, if you choose glazed
containers. Terracotta is porous and allows air to pass through to plant
roots, but this is also a disadvantage, since it absorbs water from the
soil, drying it out. It is also prone to frost damage, unless fired to very
high temperatures, which makes it much more expensive.
WOOD AND BASKETS
METAL
When buying wooden
containers, check that the label
carries the Forest Stewardship
Council (FSC) logo, indicating
that the timber has come from
a sustainable forest. Although
frost-proof, porous, and a good
insulator for plant roots, wood
decays, and must be painted
or treated with a preservative
to prolong its life. Baskets offer
a similarly natural look, but are
less durable, lasting just a few
years before deteriorating.
This is a popular choice of material because it’s so versatile. Metal
containers come in a wide array of shapes and styles; choose from
rustic utilitarian planters for a cottage-style garden, or try modern
galvanized, or powder-coated metal containers in an urban,
minimalist scheme. Beware that
thin metal containers afford plant
roots little insulation, making
them prone to overheating and
frost damage. Steel containers
also corrode, and can leave rusty
stains on light-colored paving.
Even galvanized and powdercoated metal containers will rust
if their surfaces are damaged.
STONE AND CONCRETE
SYNTHETICS
Strong, frost-proof, insulating and extremely durable, stone and
concrete pots make perfect partners for plants. Both materials are
less porous than terracotta, so will not dry out potting compost too
quickly, but they are extremely heavy. While this makes them very
stable, and suitable for growing tall,
top-heavy plants like trees, they
cannot be moved easily once
planted up. While concrete pots
tend to be inexpensive, you will
pay a high price for stone. If you
want the look of stone for a lower
price, buy containers made from
synthetic stone compounds.
Plastics, polymers, fiberglass, and resins all fall under the umbrella
of synthetics. These man-made materials are used to produce pots
large and small, plain and decorative, and they come in the widest
range of colours, from natural shades to vibrant neon pinks and
blues. Synthetic pots are frost-proof and not easily broken, so they
are ideal if you have children or pets who may knock them over.
106 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Create a spring medley
Pots brimming with spring bulbs lift the spirits after a long dark winter, but you need to plan ahead to
create the most spectacular displays. As soon as temperatures dip in the autumn, look out for bulbs at
garden centers or in mail order catalogs, and check flowering times for a synchronized display.
WHEN TO START
Mid-autumn
AT ITS BEST
Early to late spring
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Large frost-proof container
Broken clay pot pieces
All-purpose potting soil
Gravel
Selection of bulbs:
Tulips
Daffodils
Grape hyacinth, Muscari
PREPARE TO PLANT
Add pieces of clay pot or plastic to
the base of the container to cover
the drainage holes. Then add a 2 in (5 cm)
layer of gravel.
<<
PLANT IN LAYERS
Cover the gravel with
good-quality potting
soil, but leave sufficient space
to cover your bulbs to the
right depth (see p.41). Space
the daffodil bulbs on the soil,
ensuring that the pointed ends
are at the top, and cover with
more soil so that the tips of
the bulbs are just visible.
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
Synchronize flowering
To create a display like this one, choose bulbs that flower
at the same time to produce a dramatic show lasting a few
weeks in mid-spring. Alternatively, in larger containers, you
could opt for bulbs that flower in succession over some
months, from early spring to early summer, dead-heading
blooms as they fade. Check labels for flowering periods.
TIMING TULIPS AND DAFFODILS
Different types of tulip and daffodil flower at different times;
early daffodils can appear in late winter, while late tulips may still
be in bloom at the beginning of summer. To help you synchronize
flowering, choose from the following bulbs, which all bloom at
about the same time in mid-spring and last for several weeks.
COVER BULBS
Now place the tulip bulbs
between the daffodils
and cover them with more soil. Finally, scatter the small
Muscari bulbs on the top layer of soil and cover these, leaving
a gap of about 2 in (5 cm) between the soil and rim of the pot
to allow space for watering. Firm lightly.
TULIPS
‘Abba’ (tomato red)
‘Abu Hassan’ (mahogany)
‘Apricot Beauty’ (salmon
rose)
Emperor series (various
colours)
‘Mistress’ (deep pink)
‘Monte Carlo’ (sulphur
yellow)
‘Negrita’ (purple)
‘Prinses Irene’ (orange)
‘Ruby Red’ (scarlet)
DAFFODILS
‘Geranium’ (white and
orange)
‘Lemon Beauty’ (lemon
and white)
‘Lemon Drops’ (white;
lemon cup)
‘Mount Hood’ (white)
‘Red Devon’ (yellow; red
cup)
‘Salome’ (white; pink cup)
‘St Patrick’s Day’ (lemon)
‘Sweetness’ (golden yellow)
‘Thalia’ (white)
FINISHING TOUCHES
Spread gravel on top of
the soil and water well.
To aid drainage and prevent the
bulbs from rotting, raise the pot
off the ground on “feet” (below),
and place it in a sheltered spot.
Move the pot into the sun when
the bulbs emerge.
1 Tulipa ‘Madame Lefeber’; h12 in (30 cm) 2 Tulipa ‘Diana’;
h14 in (35 cm) 3 Tulipa ‘Oriental Splendour’; h12 in (30 cm)
4 Narcissus ‘Tahiti’; h18 in (45 cm) 5 Narcissus ‘Dove Wings’;
h12 in (30 cm) 6 Narcissus ‘Bartley’; h16 in (40 cm)
107
108 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Sow easy summer seeds
Growing summer bedding plants from seed is both fun and cost-effective, especially if you have several
pots to fill. The seeds used in this design are French marigolds (Tagetes), Bidens, nasturtiums, and annual
dahlias, all of which germinate quickly and make a colorful display from summer until the first frosts.
Sow seed
Large seeds
Sow seeds indoors in seed trays,
but check the packets first for any
specific instructions.
Large seeds, such as nasturtiums
(Tropaeolum), can be planted in
small 3 in (8 cm) pots, and will not
need to be potted on (see right).
WHEN TO START
Early spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
A few hours over several weeks
YOU WILL NEED
Packets of seeds
Seed soil
Clean seed trays
Modular seed trays
Selection of pots
Broken clay pot pieces
Slow-release fertilizer
All-purpose soil
Watering can with rose
SOW SEEDS
Water the soil with a can fitted with
a fine rose and allow to drain. Pour
some seeds into your hand and carefully
space them out on the soil surface.
Sprinkle some sieved soil over the seeds,
but check the packet first to see what
depth the seeds require.
FILL POTS WITH SOIL
Fill pots with seed soil and press
it down gently with your fingers,
or the bottom of another clean pot.
Use a blunt pencil or dibber to make
three holes, 1 in (2 cm) deep.
COVER AND KEEP MOIST
FILL SEED TRAYS
Using seed soil, fill some clean
seed trays to within 1 in (2 cm) of
the top. Gently press another seed tray
on top to level out and firm the surface.
Label the seed tray, and put the lid,
or a clear plastic bag, over the top.
Place in a light spot, and check the packet
to see what temperature the seeds need.
Keep moist, and remove the lid or plastic
bag as soon as seedlings emerge.
PLANT SEEDS
Drop one seed into each hole
and press the soil down lightly.
Label and water the pots, then place in
a clear plastic bag until the seedlings
start to emerge.
REMOVE SEEDLINGS FROM TRAY
Half-fill modular trays with good
quality all-purpose soil. Holding the
seedlings gently by their first leaves, use a
pencil or dibber to gently tease their roots
from the seed soil.
PLANT IN MODULES
Place a seedling in the middle of
each cell of the modular tray, and
fill around the roots and lower stems
with more soil. Firm the soil using your
fingertips to secure the seedlings.
Pot on seedlings
Check your seedlings daily and keep them well watered. The most effective way
to do this is to place the seed trays in a larger container (with no drainage holes),
half-filled with water. Leave them until the water has seeped into the soil and the
surface is damp, then remove the seed trays. When the seedlings have a few
leaves, pot them on as shown here.
WATER IN
Repeat Steps 1 and 2 for each
seedling, and water carefully. Keep
the seedlings in a bright place and at the
right temperature. A few weeks before
the last frost is forecast, set them outside
during the day, bringing them in at night,
to harden them off.
continued...
110 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Plant up the pots
In late spring when all frosts have finally finished, plant your
bedding outside in pots, window boxes, or hanging baskets
(see pp.130–131). The plants raised here from six packets of
seeds filled five pots, three window boxes, and a hanging
basket. Choose containers that suit your garden design.
SATURATE
CLAY POTS
Before planting
up terracotta pots,
soak them with water.
Terracotta is porous,
and saturating it first
helps prevent the clay
from drawing moisture
out of the soil when
the pot is planted up.
ADD DRAINAGE
MATERIAL
Place a layer of broken
clay pot pieces in the base
of each pot to ensure good
drainage. To reduce the
amount of soil needed
for larger pots, fill the bottom
third of the container with
pieces of plastic or broken
pot instead.
APPLY FERTILIZER
Fill each container to
about 2 in (5 cm) from
the rim with all-purpose soil.
Mix slow-release fertilizer
designed for container plants
into the soil. You can also add
water-retaining gel crystals,
which help keep the soil moist,
reducing the need to water
as frequently.
TOP TIP: AFTERCARE
PLANT UP
In this scheme the
dahlias are the tallest,
and should be planted at the
back, while the dwarf French
marigolds need to be at the
front, with the other plants
dotted in–between. Plant up,
firm the plants in gently, and
water them well.
LIFT THE PLANTS
Water the young plants
in their modules and
leave to drain. Then gently
squeeze the bottom and sides
of each cell to loosen the
rootballs, and remove the
plants. Place them on the
soil about 4 in (10 cm) apart.
Place the pots in a
sunny position and water
the plants regularly.
Deadhead frequently to
keep them in bloom for
longer, removing faded
flowers with clippers.
Young plants are prone
to attacks by snails and
slugs, so apply a few slug
pellets, use nematodes
or fix a copper band
around the pots to
keep them at bay (see
pp.426–427). A gritty
mulch may also help
to deter pests. To retain
moisture in the soil, you
can add a decorative
mulch (see p.405), which
will also help to set off
the planting.
Pots of plenty p
Growing your own plants from seed is
ideal if you have lots of pots to fill. The
choice of varieties is also greater than
the selection available as mature plants.
SELECTIONS >>
112 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Foolproof seeds
Some annual seeds are almost infallible, and guaranteed to provide you
with a garden full of bright, summer flowers. Protect half-hardy types from
frost by planting them indoors in spring; others, such as pot marigolds,
cornflowers, and love-in-a-mist, can be sown directly into the soil or a
container where they are to flower. That said, results are usually better
if you start them off in pots indoors, and plant them out a little later.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Pot marigold, Calendula officinalis; h20 in (50 cm) s18 in (45 cm) ABd H6–1 2 Cosmos
bipinnatus ‘Sonata White’; h5 ft (1.5 m) s18 in (45 cm) AdE H12–1
3 Cornflower, Centaurea
cyanus; h20 in (50 cm) s6 in (15 cm) Ad H7–1 4 Tobacco plant, Nicotiana ‘Lime Green’;
h20 in (50 cm) s8 in (20 cm) BCE H12–1
5 Zinnia elegans ‘Peppermint Stick‘; h24 in (60 cm)
s16 in (40 cm) AD H12–1
6 Corn poppy, Papaver rhoeas Shirley Group; h36 in (90 cm)
s12 in (30 cm) Ad H12–1
7 Love-in-a mist, Nigella damascena Persian Jewel Series; h16 in
(40 cm) s8 in (20 cm) Ad H12–1
s24 in (60 cm) Ae H12–1
8 Love-lies-bleeding, Amaranthus caudatus; h4 ft (1.2 m)
9 Callistephus chinensis ‘Pompon’; h24 in (60 cm) s18 in (45 cm)
ADe H9–1 0 California poppy, Eschscholzia californica; h12 in (30 cm) s6 in (15 cm) Ad
113
SELECTIONS >>
<<
114 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Plant a pot of wallflowers
Wallflowers are biennial plants, which means they live for two years, producing leaves in the first, and
flowers in the second. Buy them with bare roots and plant up in autumn, ready to bloom the following
spring. These fragrant flowers come in many hot shades, and look stunning with violas and grasses.
WHEN TO START
Autumn
AT ITS BEST
Spring
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
Wallflowers, Erysimum cheiri
Winter-flowering violas
Feather Grass, Stipa tenuissima
Frost-resistant container
Broken clay pot pieces
Multi-purpose soil
Bucket
Gravel
ADD THE PLANTS
Place clay pieces at the bottom
of the pot and fill to within 2 in
(5 cm) of the rim with soil. Plant the
Stipa at the back and violas around
the front. Gently unwrap and separate
the wallflowers.
PREPARE WALLFLOWERS
Try to plant your bare-root
wallflowers as soon as you
get them home. If you have to store
them for a few days, wrap the roots
in damp newspaper and keep the
plants in a cool garage or unheated
greenhouse. Then, just before
planting, plunge the roots in a bucket
of water for about 15 minutes.
FIRM IN AND WATER
Plant the wallflowers between
the Stipa and violas, making
sure that they are upright. Firm in
and water well. Place the container
in a sunny position. Water during dry
spells and remove faded flowers.
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
Sow grasses from seed
Very fashionable and extremely versatile, annual grasses are easy to grow from seed, and can be used
in wild, meadow-style plantings, as well as container designs. If you have light, well-drained soil and a
sunny site, they may self-seed and recreate their beautiful, natural effect for free.
FILL MODULES AND SOW SEEDS
Fill a modular seed tray with seed soil to within ¼ in
(5 mm) of the top. Tap the tray to settle the soil, top up
if necessary, and sow about three or four seeds per cell on the
surface. Each module will then produce a small clump of grass.
COVER SEEDLINGS
Sprinkle a thin layer of
vermiculite over the seeds
to keep the surface moist, while
also allowing light through to aid
germination. Water the tray, using
a can fitted with a fine rose. The
seeds will take up to three weeks
to germinate, depending on the
type of grass.
WHEN TO START
Early spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer to autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes to sow; 1 hour to plant
YOU WILL NEED
Modular seed trays
Seed soil
Vermiculite
Watering can
Small plastic pots
Multi-purpose soil
Seed suggestions:
Foxtail millet, Setaria italica
Hare’s tail, Lagurus ovatus
Quaking grass, Briza
maxima (see above)
Sorghum nigrum
KEEP SEED TRAYS
SHADED
Keep the newly sown seed
trays in a semi-shaded spot and
do not allow them to dry out. When the seedlings appear, move
the trays out into the sun. Once they have several strong leaves,
pot them up (see p.110) and set them outside. You can collect
seed from your own ornamental grasses in late summer to sow
the following spring.
115
116 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Sculptural spikes
Plants with swordlike, spiky leaves have a natural drama and exuberance. If you want to create a
subtropical look in your garden, or even just a bit of theater, use these surprisingly easy foliage plants
in large containers to form the architectural features within your planting design.
Cordyline
Cordyline is commonly known as the
cabbage palm. The colored-leaved
cultivars are great in pots, but if you
want yours to grow into a large
specimen, choose the hardiest, plain
green Cordyline australis.
PLANTING AND AFTERCARE
o a Colorful cordylines
Variegated and purple cordylines add
drama to container plantings, but they
are not quite as tough as those with
simple, plain green leaves.
Yuccas
The best yuccas have striped, variegated foliage but also vicious
spikes, so don’t plant them where young children could be hurt.
PLANTING AND AFTERCARE
Yuccas will survive winter outdoors in all but the most exposed areas,
but they do best in sheltered gardens in well-drained soil and full sun.
Extremely drought tolerant, they thrive in containers, and are well
suited to coastal gardens. They need little care, which is lucky,
because their spikes make them difficult.
Make an architectural statement p
Yucca’s arching shape suits a pot, but it will also grow well in the
ground as long as there is sufficient drainage and sunshine.
Grow cordylines in sun or partial shade
in a well-drained soil, or multi-purpose
compost if planting in a container. Feed
them annually in spring with a granular
slow-release fertilizer. Lower leaves turn
yellow as the plant ages; cut these back
to the trunk or leave them to fall off. In
colder areas; leaves may suffer damage
from winter winds and snow. Protect
them by tying the foliage together
loosely around the central leaves.
Phormiums
Commonly known as New Zealand
flax, these striking plants come in
many colors and sizes, from dainty,
container-sized cultivars to vast,
shrub-like specimens.
PLANTING AND AFTERCARE
Phormiums are easy and will grow well
in all types of soil. They prefer full sun but
will tolerate some shade. Although they
are hardy, individual leaves may suffer
frost damage, but these can be removed,
and the plant will quickly recover in spring.
1 P. tenax ‘Variegatum’; E5 ft (1.5 m)
2 P. cookianum subsp. hookeri ‘Tricolor’;
E15 ft (1.5 m) 3 P. ‘Sundowner’; E6 ft
(2 m) 4 P. ‘Bronze Baby’; E32 in (80 cm)
o Flexible flax
This dwarf Phormium, ‘Jester’, only reaches
36 in in height and spread, and is ideal for pots.
118 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Pot up climbers in containers
Many of the more compact climbers, such as jasmine and some clematis cultivars, are well suited to
being grown in pots, and add another layer of interest to areas such as patios or pathways where there
is no soil. All they need is a good-sized container, suitable support, and regular watering and feeding.
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Jasmine or other climber
A large frost-proof pot
Broken clay pot pieces
Soil-based mix
Trellis
Twine
Gravel or pebbles to mulch
Watering can
BEFORE YOU PLANT
Put pieces of broken clay pot into
the base of the container to aid
drainage, and then cover with a layer of
soil. Position the support at the back of
the container and then pack some soil
around it to help hold it firmly in place.
Make sure that there is enough room for
the plant roots to spread out.
TIE IN MAIN STEMS
Remove any supports
the plant has been
grown on. Tie the main stems
loosely to the trellis with
twine. When the stems have
hardened, remove the ties
and tie in new growth higher
up the trellis.
ANGLE PLANT TOWARD TRELLIS
Part-fill the container with more
soil. Set the climber on top to check
that it will be at the same depth as it was
in its pot when planted (see p.219 for
clematis). Plant it with the stems angled
toward the trellis. There should be a gap
of 2 in (5 cm) between the compost
surface and the rim of the pot.
WATER IN WELL
Water in well and
place a layer of
gravel or pebbles on top
of the compost to minimize
evaporation from the
surface. This will also keep
the roots cool, and improve
the appearance of the pot.
TOP TIP: CHOOSING CLEMATIS FOR POTS
Many clematis are naturally
compact and flower when
still small, but take care
to choose the right type.
To keep clematis compact,
cut back the stems of
summer-flowering plants,
such as Clematis florida, in
late winter. Leave unpruned
those that flower before
late spring, such as C. alpina
and C. macropetala,
because they bloom on
the previous year’s growth
(see pp.218–219).
COMPACT CULTIVARS
g Spoiled for choice
You can combine complementary
colored cultivars in the same pot
(above), or opt for just one
flower-smothered plant (right).
‘Arabella’
‘Barbara Jackman’
‘Bees’ Jubilee’
‘Comtesse de Bouchaud’
‘Daniel Deronda’
florida var. flore-pleno
florida var. sieboldiana
‘H.F. Young’
‘Ice Blue’ (far left, white)
‘Kingfisher’ (far left, mauve)
‘Miss Bateman’
‘Niobe’
‘Ooh La La’ (left)
‘Perle d’Azur’
‘Prince Charles’
‘Royalty’
119
120 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Grow plants from plugs
Quick, easy and cheap, “plugs” are basically well-developed seedlings that you pot on
once before planting out. They are ideal if you do not have the space or time to sow
seeds yourself, and they are the simplest option for plants that are difficult to germinate.
Mail-order companies tend to offer the largest selection of bedding and tender perennial
plugs, and they usually cost a fraction of the price of fully-grown plants.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Late spring to autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Plug plants—begonias
have been used here
Dibber or pencil
Potting soil
Large modular trays
or small 3 in (8 cm)
plastic pots
Watering can
ORDER YOUR PLUGS
When ordering plugs, make
sure you will have time to pot
them up soon after they arrive—most
companies specify when they will be
delivered. Plugs are also known as
“miniplants” or “easyplants,” and
companies may offer them at different
stages of development. The youngest
plugs will be cheapest.
PLANT UP IN
MODULES
Make a hole
with your finger or a
pencil in the compost
in the modules, and
insert a plug plant
in each. Firm the
soil around the plug
lightly with your
fingers, taking care
not to compact it or
to damage the roots.
REMOVE PLUGS FROM
CONTAINER
When the plugs arrive, water
well and store them in a cool,
frost-free place. Fill large modular
trays, or small 3 in (8 cm) pots, with
good-quality potting soil, designed
for seedlings and young plants. Using
the blunt end of a pencil or a dibber,
gently push the plug plants out of
their original containers.
KEEP PLANTS
WATERED
Water the
plugs using a can
fitted with a fine rose,
and keep them in a
cool, light, frost-free
place. Water regularly,
harden off (see p.109),
and plant out in pots,
or in the ground,
when all risk of frost
has passed.
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
Planting options
Most popular bedding plants, including
pelargoniums, busy Lizzies, begonias,
lobelia, snapdragons, dahlias, and fuchsias
are available as plug plants, although many
companies also offer a selection of newer
and more unusual varieties. Order in early
spring for a late spring delivery.
1 Nicotiana ‘Nicki'; h18 in (45 cm)
2 Nemesia strumosa ‘KLM’; h10 in (25 cm)
3 Gazania Chansonette Series; h12 in (30 cm)
4 Pelargonium Horizon Series; h16 in (40 cm)
o Shady treat
This beautiful container, ideal for a partly shaded
spot, is filled with Begonia ‘Illumination Rose’ and
fragrant blue heliotropes, all grown from plugs,
together with Fuchsia ‘Genii’ and trailing Lysimachia
nummularia ‘Aurea’ (golden creeping Jenny).
121
SELECTIONS >>
122 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Shade-loving container plants
Summer flower displays need not be limited by a shady garden because
many pretty container plants prefer cooler conditions. A pot full of flowering
begonias, fuchsias, violas, or busy Lizzies will transform a sheltered patio,
while plants grown for their foliage look particularly attractive in shade,
where the sun will not bleach out their subtle colors. Leafy hostas, ferns,
lamiums, and heucheras also offer a wonderful variety of textures.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Fuchsia ‘Autumnale’; h12 in (30 cm) s16 in (40 cm) ABdE H12–9
hs16 in (40 cm) ACdE H0–0
2 Heuchera ‘Plum Pudding’;
3 Flowering begonia; to hs16 in (40 cm) BCdE H12–1
4 Deadnettle, Lamium galeobdolon; h24 in (60 cm) s36 in (90 cm) BCdE H8–1 5 Viola Princess
Series; h6 in (15 cm) s8 in (20 cm)ABe H9–1 6 Ivy, Hedera helix ‘Little Diamond’; hs12 in (30
cm)BdE H12–6
7 Hosta sieboldiana; h36 in (90 cm) s4 ft (1.2 m) BdE H9–2
Impatiens walleriana; hsto 14 in (35 cm) ABe H12–1
(30 cm) s14 in (35 cm)ABDe H9–6
8 Busy Lizzie,
9 Carex hachijoensis ’Evergold’; h12 in
0 Primula Gold-laced Group; h10 in (25 cm) s12 in (30 cm)
BE H8–4 q Male fern, Dryopteris filix-mas; hs36 in (90 cm) BE H8–1
123
SELECTIONS >>
<<
124 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Plant pots of perfume
The epitome of high summer, sweetly scented lilies set by a front or back door will greet you with
their perfume as you come and go, but keep your distance because their pollen stains clothing. The
most cost-effective way to grow them is to plant fresh bulbs in early spring.
WHEN TO PLANT
Spring
TOP TIP: LILY OPTIONS
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
Choose the following species for scent:
L. auratum
L. candidum
L. hansonii (below right)
L. regale, white
L. speciosum var. rubrum (below left)
Oriental hybrids, such as ‘Star Gazer’
(left), ‘Tiger Woods’, and ‘Arabian Red’
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
Lily bulbs (see Top Tip, right,
for scented types)
Deep container
Broken clay pot pieces
Multipurpose potting mix
Horticultural grit
TOP UP THE CONTAINER
Cover the bulbs and top up the
container to about 2 in (5 cm)
below the rim with a 50:50 mix of soil and
horticultural grit. Place your pots on “feet”
in a sheltered spot and move them into
the sun as soon as the shoots appear.
AFTERCARE
PREPARE THE POT
In spring, buy fresh lily bulbs and
choose a deep container; most
lilies are planted at a depth of 6 to 8 in
(15–20 cm). Cover the drainage hole with
broken pot pieces and then add a layer of
multipurpose potting mix.
PLANT THE BULBS
Add a 1½ in (3 cm) thick layer of
horticultural grit over the potting mix
and lay the bulbs on their sides on top.
Positioning the bulbs like this allows water
to drain out of the bulb scales, rather than
collecting and rotting the bulbs.
Water every couple of days, and
apply a tomato feed to your lily
pots every fortnight during the summer.
Keep in a sheltered position over winter,
and in spring, renew the top 2 in (5 cm)
of compost. Lily beetle (see pp.428–429)
is their main pest. Look out for these
bright red beetles and pick them off
as soon as you see them.
<<
Elegant arrangement
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Clear white lilies with a frilly skirt of Diascia and dramatic striped grasses make
a chic windowbox display for the front of the house. The lily used here is Lilium
‘Reinesse’, and like all Asiatic lilies it is unscented, but you could easily substitute
a perfumed-type, such as ‘Muscadet’, to produce a fragrant combination.
PREPARE THE BOX
If your windowbox has no drainage
holes, make a few with an electric
drill. In early spring, add a layer of broken
clay pot pieces to the bottom of the box,
and cover them with potting mix. Plant
up bulbs as shown opposite. Plant the
delicate Diascia at the front of the box
and the stripy Carex at each end. Or, for
an instant effect in summer, buy the lilies
in flower and pot them up with mature
Diascia and Carex plants.
CARING FOR THE DISPLAY
Feed your windowbox every two
weeks with a tomato fertilizer,
and keep it well watered from late spring
and throughout the summer. The lilies
will flower for a few weeks in summer,
and can then be planted out in the garden
in free-draining soil. The Diascia will
bloom continuously all summer and can
survive the winter outside in mild areas;
the Carex is quite hardy too, and is
effective in winter displays.
Lilium ‘Reinesse’
Diascia, white
Carex morrowii cultivar
Deep white windowbox
Broken clay pot pieces
Multipurpose potting mix
Horticultural grit
TOP TIP: DEADHEADING DIASCIA
To help prolong the display, regularly
remove fading flowers on your Diascia.
This stops the plants from producing
seeds and focuses their energy on
making more flowers instead.
125
126 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Make cottage-style containers
Even if you don’t own a traditional garden with deep borders, you can still pull off the cottage garden
look by planting in containers. Herbaceous perennials and annual climbers grow well in pots, which
you can slot into existing planting schemes to add extra height and color, wherever you want it.
Morning glory tower
This annual climber, Ipomoea, can be easily grown from seed in spring, and will
quickly romp over a container support, smothering it in trumpetlike flowers.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT ITS BEST
Mid- to late summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Morning glory, Ipomoea, seedlings
Large container
Multi-purpose soil and slowrelease fertilizer
Broken clay pot pieces
Tall bamboo stakes
Raffia or string
TIE STAKES TOGETHER
Arrange stakes around the edge of
the pot and tie the tops together.
Then stabilize the obelisk by tying each
stake to the next with raffia to form a ring.
Repeat this a few times up the stakes.
BEFORE YOU PLANT
Place broken clay pot pieces in the
base of the pot, fill with soil, and
mix in slow-release fertilizer granules.
PLANT SEEDLINGS
Take a pot or two of seedlings that
you sowed indoors (see pp.108–109)
in early spring. Carefully separate them
out and plant one at the base of each
stake. Firm in, and water the plants well.
AFTERCARE
The small plants will quickly start to
climb of their own accord but may
benefit from being tied in at first. Water
the plants well all summer, and remove
any faded flowers to keep them in bloom.
Pastel pot
Compact versions of cottage garden
perennials grow well in pots, where
they make a looser and more natural
alternative to tender bedding plants.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Wide pot
Broken clay pot pieces
Soil-based potting mix
Slow-release fertilizer granules
Carex ‘Ice Dance’
Delphinium grandiflorum
Stachys officinalis ‘Hummelo’
Veronica spicata ‘Rosenrot’
PREPARE AND PLANT
Place broken clay pot pieces
over the holes in the base of the
container, then half-fill it with soil. Plant
the delphinium toward the back and
arrange the other, lower-growing plants,
in front. Fill around them with more soil,
and mix in slow-release fertilizer granules.
Water the plants well.
AFTERCARE
With the correct care, this can be
a long-lasting container that
flowers year after year. In early spring,
remove all dead growth to make way for
the new spring shoots. At the same time,
remove the top layer of soil, and replace
with fresh soil mixed with fertilizer
granules. The plants will also require
regular division (see right).
TOP TIP: REPOTTING AND DIVIDING PERENNIALS
In the garden, herbaceous perennials
need lifting, dividing, and replanting
every few years to keep them healthy.
In a pot, this should be done more often,
at least every two years. Lift the plants
out of the pot and use your hands to
tease sections apart. Discard any old or
weak clumps, then replant the healthiest
offsets into fresh soil with some fertilizer.
128 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Inside out
Show-stopping plants with “wow” factor, tender Abyssinian bananas
are ideal for terraces and patios, where they give welcome shade,
and form a structural backdrop to other exotics. They must be kept
in a warm area during winter, so bear this in mind before you buy.
WHEN TO START
Late spring
AT ITS BEST
Early summer to early autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Large pot
Broken clay pot pieces
Multi-purpose potting mix
1. Abyssinian banana, Ensete
ventricosum ‘Maurelii’
2. Asparagus densiflorus ‘Myersii’
3. Clerodendrum thomsoniae
4. Medinilla magnifica
PLANT YOUR BANANAS
Widely available, Ensete are large
perennials that grow very quickly in
summer. They like a sunny spot, sheltered
from strong winds that could tear their
leaves. Line the base of a pot with broken
clay pot pieces, and plant the Ensete in
multi-purpose potting mix.
FEEDING AND CARE
To encourage the strongest, most
luscious growth, water the plants
regularly and feed every week using a
liquid fertilizer. You can add to the display
by underplanting your Ensete with ferns,
trailing bedding plants, or other exotics
with attractive foliage.
OVERWINTERING BANANAS
To make sure your Ensete survives the
winter, bring the pots indoors before the
first frosts. A plant mover (right) will make the
task easier. Remove older leaves and keep the
plant in a room, or heated greenhouse, at a
minimum temperature of 45°F (7°C). Don’t water
in the colder months but start again in spring.
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
Exotic options
To complement your bananas, plant up
pots of flowering exotics to inject spicy
colors and scents into the mix. These
summer-flowering plants enjoy a sunny
site outside and can be brought into a
heated conservatory for winter.
Grow these colorful exotic plants in large
containers on a warm patio, and they will
provide a beautiful, summer-long display.
Plants will reach these dimensions when
grown in a pot or container.
1 Glory lily, Gloriosa superba (climber);
h6 ft (2 m) 2 Brugmansia aurea; h6 ft
(2 m) s3 ft (1 m) 3 Lantana camara; E3 ft
(1 m) 4 Hibiscus rosa-sinensis; E3 ft (1 m)
129
130 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Plant a summer basket
Floating globes of flowers and foliage lend an exotic touch to patios and balconies throughout the
summer. Plant up a large basket and hang it at head height, so you can focus on the colors, shapes,
and textures. To prolong your flowery display, water and deadhead daily.
POSITION WALL BRACKET
WHEN TO START
Late spring
The most successful hanging
baskets are the largest, because
they hold greater quantities of soil and
water and are less prone to drying out.
However, big baskets require strong
brackets fixed securely to the wall.
Place the bracket on the wall and
check it is vertical with a spirit level.
Use a pencil to mark the positions
of the screw holes.
AT ITS BEST
Early to late summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Sturdy wall bracket
Pencil
Electric drill with masonry bit
Spirit level
Rawlplugs and coach bolts
Spanner
Large hanging basket and liner
Scissors
Multipurpose compost
Slow-release granular fertilizer
Plants in this basket:
Trailing blue lobelia
Dichondra argentea ‘Silver Falls’
Lotus berthelotii
Diascia ‘Flying Colors Coral’
Verbena ‘Peaches ‘n’ Cream’
Verbena ‘Derby’
ATTACH BRACKET
Place the bracket back
on the wall and line up
the holes. Insert a washer and
coach bolt and screw it into
the wall using a spanner, as
shown. A ratchet-style spanner
makes this job easier. Repeat
for the second hole. Tighten
both bolts fully to secure the
bracket to the wall.
DRILL HOLES
Remove the bracket, and using
an electric drill with a masonry
bit, drill holes through the pencil
marks. You will find this easier if
you drill the holes into the mortar
rather than the bricks. Push a
Rawlplug into each hole.
LINE BASKET
Line the basket with a
suitable liner and trim to
fit. Over the bottom third of the
basket, lay a sheet of plastic
punched with a few small
drainage holes—a piece of trash
can liner is perfect. Add a layer
of gravel and cover this with
soil. Then, cut crosses at regular
intervals around the sides just
above the plastic.
THREAD PLANTS THROUGH HOLES
Water all the plants thoroughly and
remove the lobelia plants from their cell
pack. Wrap a little plastic around the leaves to
protect them, and thread each plant through
the crosses from the inside.
PLANT THE BASKET
Cover the lobelia with more soil and
then start planting up the rest of the
basket. Work from the center out, with the
tallest Verbena in the middle and the trailing
Dichondra and Lotus around the edges.
FINISHING TOUCHES
Fill in around the plants with soil and
some fertilizer. Water in well, and add
a layer of gravel over the soil to help retain
moisture. Water daily, even if it has rained, and
deadhead regularly for a longer show of blooms.
SELECTIONS >>
132 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Summer basket choices
In spring, garden centers are packed with plants for windowboxes and
hanging baskets that will provide you with color all summer long. Baskets
crammed with flowers alone can look a little overwhelming, so choose
a few foliage plants, such as red-leaved coleus, or silvery Glechoma and
Festuca, to act as foils. Trailing plants, including lobelia and Lotus (see
pp.130–131), soften lines and continue the display below the main plants.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Osteospermum cultivar; h16 in (40 cm) S24 in (60 cm) Ad H6–1
‘Hawaii White’; hS6 in (15 cm) AdE H12–1
(20 cm) Abde H12–1
2 Ageratum houstonianum
3 Coleus, Solenostemon scutellarioides; hS8 in
4 Fescue, Festuca glauca; h12 in (30 cm) S10 in (25 cm) Ad H8–1
5 Busy Lizzie, Impatiens walleriana Super Elfin Series; hS24 in (60 cm) Abde H12–1
ivy, Glechoma hederacea ‘Variegata’; h6 in (15 cm) S6 ft (2 m) Abde H9–5
Brachyscome ‘Blue Mist’; h14 in (35 cm) S18 in (45 cm) Ad H12–1
Pink; h10 in (25 cm) S24 in (60 cm) Ad H12–1
(90 cm) Ad H12–8
6 Ground
7 Swan River daisy,
8 Petunia Shockwave Series
9 Convolvulus cneorum; h24 in (60 cm) S36 in
0 Nemesia strumosa ‘KLM’; h12 in (30 cm) S6 in (15 cm) Ade H10–9
133
SELECTIONS >>
<<
134 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Make containers from cast-offs
It’s easy to create plant pots for free from old household objects, such as pans, kettles, and colanders.
Here, tin cans have been transformed into stylish containers for grasses and summer flowers. If you
want larger displays, ask at local restaurants for their empty extra-large sized cans.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer to early autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
Old tin cans
Gloves
Screwdriver with metal drill bit
Broken clay pot or plastic
pieces
Multi-purpose soil
Brachyscome, lilac
Calibrachoa ‘Million Bells Purple’
Festuca glauca ‘Elijah Blue’
Festuca glauca ‘Golden Toupee’
Recycling ideas
DRILL DRAINAGE HOLES
You will find more ideas for containers made from recycled materials at national
flower shows and open gardens in your area, while thriftshops and tag sales
offer good sources of planters, such as old handbags and bread bins.
FUNKY JUNK
Soak off the labels from the cans
in hot soapy water. Wearing heavy
gloves, drill a few drainage holes in the
bottom of each can.
Large plant pots can be expensive but
you can get one for nothing at your
local recycling center. Old oil drums are
perfect for trees or large shrubs (above),
while worn tires can be used singly
and filled with turf to make stepping
stones (below) or piled on top of each
other to create taller containers.
FIRM PLANTS IN WELL
Add pieces of clay pot to the
bottom of the cans and plant up
the grasses and flowers, leaving a 1 in
(2 cm) gap between the surface of the
soil and the rim. Water well.
a Creative containers
Old wheelbarrows make excellent containers
for summer bedding, such as marigolds.
Drill holes in the bottom of the barrow
to provide drainage.
136 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Use tiny but tough succulents
Alpines are a group of plants that really allow you to be creative. Tolerant of drought and low winter
temperatures, they flourish in thin, poor soils, and will grow in nooks and crannies that are too small
for other plants. All they need is a free-draining soil and shelter from heavy winter rain.
Alpine shells
Little shells planted with houseleeks
make an interesting garden feature.
The fleshy rosettes have a wonderful,
textured appearance; some types are
covered with a gossamer webbing too.
WHEN TO PLANT
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Spring to autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
Houseleeks, Sempervivum species
Soil-based potting mix
Horticultural sand
Spoon
Bowl for mixing soil
Large seashells
MIX SOIL
AND
SAND
Wash the shells
you plan to use
with hot soapy
water, or soak
them for an hour
in baby-bottle sterilizing solution. In the
bowl, mix equal parts of soil-based
potting mix and horticultural sand.
PACK SHELLS WITH SOIL
Using a spoon, fill the shells with
the soil mix and tap it down. Water
the houseleeks well before planting them.
To do this, stand them in their pots in a
bowl of water for 15 minutes, take them
out, then allow them to drain.
PLANT THE HOUSELEEKS
Remove the houseleeks from their
pots and plant them carefully in the
shells. Use the spoon handle to push more
soil between the plants, and to cover the
roots. Water well, and set the shells on their
sides so that rain will drain away freely.
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
DRILL DRAINAGE HOLES
Clever idea
Using an electric drill
and metal bit, make
several drainage holes in the
base of each watering can. Cover
the holes with gravel, add a mix
of soil and sand, and water the
sedums before planting (see
Steps 1 and 2 opposite).
Decorate a tree or shrub with little
watering cans brimming with sedums.
Given a sunny position, the plants
will become covered with tiny, starry
yellow flowers in summer.
TIME TO COMPLETE
FIRM PLANTS IN WELL
30 minutes
Remove the sedums from
their pots and plant them
in the watering cans, filling in
around them with more soil and
sand mix. Water the plants well
and tie the watering cans, via
their handles, to a tree or shrub
using raffia or string.
YOU WILL NEED
Sedum spathulifolium ‘Purpureum’
Electric drill and metal bit
Soil-based potting mix
Small watering cans
Gravel
Horticultural sand
Strong raffia or garden twine
Slate trough
Topped with slate chips, this trough
mirrors a mountain scree. Plant in situ
in a sunny site because it will be heavy
when filled. Use specialist nurseries
(see pp.446–447) for a wide plant choice.
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Trough
Broken clay pot pieces
Gravel
Soil-based potting mix
Horticultural sand
Slate chips
Delosperma harazianum
Draba hispanica
Erigeron compositus var. discoideus
Limonium bellidifolium
Polemonium viscosum
Saxifraga juniperifolia
Silene acaulis
Townsendia jonesii
PREPARE THE TROUGH
Cover the drainage holes at the
bottom of the trough with clay
pieces, then add a 2 in (5 cm) layer of gravel.
Top up the trough, using a free-draining
mixture of soil and sand (see Step 1,
opposite). Leave 2 in (5 cm) between
the rim and the surface of the soil.
ADD SLATE AND PLANTS
Top off the trough with slate chips,
pushing them into the soil for
stability, and leave spaces for the plants.
Water the plants (see Step 2, opposite)
and plant them in the gaps, making sure
that their roots are covered with sand and
soil mix. Water the plants thoroughly.
137
138 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Plant up patio roses
Modern patio roses bloom for many months, and offer those with limited space the chance to enjoy
their color and fragrance. Not all roses thrive in cramped conditions, so look out for plants labeled “patio”
or “miniature,” and place your containers in a sunny position for the best blooms.
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn or early spring
AT THEIR BEST
Early to midsummer
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
Large container, at least
18 in (45 cm) deep
Broken clay pot pieces
Gravel
Soil-based potting mix
Well-rotted manure
Slow-release fertilizer
Mycorrhizal fungi, such as
Rootgrow
Patio rose, such as Rosa
‘Regensberg’
Bedding plants, such as
Sutera cordata (syn. Bacopa)
PREPARE THE CONTAINER
Plant your pot in situ, since it will
be heavy and difficult to move
once planted. Place a layer of broken
pots or plastic pieces at the bottom of
the container. Add a layer of gravel to
aid drainage, and then some potting
mix with well-rotted manure (one part
manure to ten parts soil).
CHECK PLANTING DEPTH
Place the rose, in its pot, on the
soil and check that the graft union
(swelling at base of stems) will be below
the soil after planting. Remove or add
soil to adjust the planting level, and mix
in slow-release fertilizer and mycorrhizal
fungi. Then remove the rose from its
container and set it in the pot.
TOP TIP: FEEDING YOUR ROSES
PLANT UP ANNUALS
Fill around the root ball with the
soil and manure mixture. Wearing
gloves, firm it in gently with your hands.
Leave a gap of 2 in (5 cm) between the
soil and the rim of the pot to allow space
for watering. For added summer color,
after the frosts in late spring, plant
trailing bedding plants, such as Sutera,
around the edge.
FINISHING TOUCHES
Water the plants well after planting;
you may have to add a little more
soil after watering if it exposes the roots.
A mulch of well-rotted manure over the
top of the soil will help retain moisture.
Keep the container moist during the
growing season, and stand it on “feet”
during winter to make sure excess
water drains away easily.
In spring, remove the top layer of soil
and add some fresh soil mixed with
a granular rose fertilizer, applying
it according to the manufacturers’
instructions. You may need to top
up with a liquid feed in the summer,
but avoid doing so in late summer
because this will encourage soft
growth that is vulnerable to frost.
140 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Create a modern patio mix
Green is the only color used in this contemporary display, the subtle hues helping to emphasize the
wonderful forms and textures of the plants. A slim vase-shaped container balances the tall spiky
cabbage palm and pendent ferny foliage, while pineapple-like flowers lend an exotic touch.
PREPARE TO PLANT
WHEN TO START
Late spring
AT ITS BEST
Early summer to early autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Large pot; at least 18 in (45 cm)
deep
Broken clay pot pieces
Multi-purpose soil
Slow-release fertilizer
1. Cabbage palm,
Cordyline australis
2. Tobacco plant,
Nicotiana ‘Lime Green’
3. Maidenhair fern,
Adiantum capillus-veneris
4. Pineapple lily,
Eucomis bicolor
Prepare the pot as described in
Steps 1 and 2 on page 110, but
use only a thin layer of crocks at the base,
because this display requires more soii
to sustain it. Half-fill the container with
soil, and then add some slow-release
fertilizer. Water the plants well, and slip
them out of their pots.
Cool greens
The following plants would work
equally well planted together in a
container. All but the Aeonium are
hardy enough to overwinter outside.
PLANT UP
Plant the palm at the back, and the
pineapple lilies at intervals in front.
Set the tobacco plants between the lilies,
and squeeze in the ferns around the edge.
Leave about a 2 in (5 cm) gap between
the surface of the soil and rim of the pot,
to make watering the container easier.
SUMMER CARE
Position your container in a sunny
site but make sure it is shaded
from the midday sun, which will scorch
the fern. Water every other day in summer.
Deadhead the tobacco plant regularly, and
occasionally trim off leaves that look messy.
1
WINTER CARE
4
2
3
These plants are borderline hardy,
and will need some protection
from very hard frosts; cover them with
fleece or bring them indoors when bad
weather is forecast. The pineapple lily will
die back in the autumn, then re-emerge
in spring. Only the tobacco plant is an
annual, and will therefore need to be
replaced each year.
1 Phormium tenax ‘Variegatum’; h36 in
(90 cm) s24 in (60 cm) in a pot
2 Heuchera variegated cultivar; h 16 in
(40 cm) s12 in (30 cm) 3 Aeonium
arboreum; hs24 in (60 cm) in a pot
SELECTIONS >>
142 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Contemporary containers
Glamorous and chic, contemporary containers transform a terrace into
a catwalk for stylish plants. Seek out those with bold shapes and made
from modern materials for a fashionable look, but don’t be tempted to
mix colors and styles or the effect will be lost. Give your patio a stunning
makeover by employing tricks used by top landscape designers, such as
lining up identical containers or grouping them in threes.
1 These simple aluminum pots of different sizes are filled with clipped Cryptomeria and a golden
dwarf juniper. 2 Rusted metal is at the height of fashion, and carries off this mop-head of love grass,
Eragrostis curvula ‘Totnes Burgundy’, to perfection. 3 A black stainless steel container provides a
great contrast to pastel summer bedding.
4 Modular square pots, handmade from cement boards
bracketed together, sprayed with metallic bronze Plasti-Kote and sealed with a waterproof sealant,
create a funky group of boxwood balls and bright marigolds.
5 This trio of glazed earthenware
containers provides a chic, understated home for the bold, green, textured foliage plants. 6 This
metal pot is set on a stabilizing plate, which can be camouflaged with gravel to give the illusion of
a gravity-defying cone. 7 Perfect for a deck or natural stone patio, these tall clay pots have been
fired to a high temperature to make them frostproof. 8 Coated copper retains its subtle color and
this elegant bowl mirrors the metallic shades of the cannas, while creating a foil for the ferns.
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
143
SELECTIONS >>
<<
144 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Eastern promise
Graceful clumps of bamboos and grasses, carefully placed pebbles, and
wooden railings combine to give this garden an Oriental look. Add dwarf
bamboos in attractive pots, and bring a hint of Asia to your patio.
SELECT YOUR PLANTS
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn or spring
Low-growing bamboos are the best
choice for pots, and there is a wide
variety with colored stakes and brightly
striped leaves. Arrange several close together
to create a small, dense jungle.
AT THEIR BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours
PLANT THE BAMBOOS
YOU WILL NEED
Place broken clay pot pieces in the
base of a pot and add a layer of soil.
Water the bamboo, remove it from its pot,
and set in the center of the container. Fill in
around it with soil and
some fertilizer. Firm in
and water. Bamboos
are thirsty, so water
often. Since they grow
strongly, lift, divide,
and repot them in new
soil every three or four
years (see p.416).
Matching containers
Soil-based potting mix
Slow-release fertilizer granules
Broken clay pot pieces
1. Phyllostachys bambusoides
‘Holochrysa’
2. Pleioblastus variegatus
3. Indocalamus tessellatus
4. Pleioblastus variegatus
‘Tsuboii’
5. Fargesia murielae
1
5
2
4
3
146 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Style emerald topiary
Topiary adds real style to a patio or terrace, and although you can buy expensive preshaped shrubs,
making your own is quite easy and very rewarding. Pot up your boxwood plant first in a large container,
and then choose between an elegant spiral (below) or go a step further and add a finial on top (right).
WHEN TO START
Early summer
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Large boxwood, Buxus
sempervirens
Topiary shears
Clippers
Wire
Large container
Soil-based potting mix
o Get into shape
Topiary shapes, such as pyramids and spirals,
are easy to make. Once you have mastered
the basics, try developing your own designs.
CLIP INTO ROUGH OUTLINE
Plant up your boxwood into a large
container filled with soil-based
potting mix (see p.151). To create a spiral
shape with a ball on top, start off by
roughly trimming your plant into a cone
(see pp.98–99 for method). If you want to
create a ball finial on top, leave the upper
portion unclipped at this stage.
SHAPE WITH TOPIARY SHEARS
You may be able to create the
outline by eye, but if you want
a guide, place a loose spiral of wire
around the cone, and use shears to clip
in between, cutting back to the central
stem. Use clippers for woodier stems.
Do not rush, and stand back regularly
to check how the shape is developing.
TOP TIP: CIRCULAR TEMPLATE
To make a circular template, wrap a
piece of thick wire around something
round and solid, and about the same
size as the ball you wish to create; a
paint can would be ideal. Then twist
the ends together to keep the shape.
ROUND OFF THE EDGES
Once you have a rough spiral, start
creating the final shape. Use your
shears to gradually round off the edges to
give the appearance of a tube winding
around the central stem. To keep the
shape in proportion, and to make it look
solid and stable, taper the spiral so that it
is thinner at the top and thicker at the
base. Regularly inspect your work as you
go, tweaking as necessary.
SHAPE THE LOLLIPOP TOP
Either leave the spiral as it is, or trim
a ball on top. When clipping a ball,
try using a wire template (see Top Tip,
right) to create a regular shape. Move the
template around the ball to check that it is
spherical. If you make a mistake, leave the
area to regrow then try again.
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
Autumn stars
Patio planters need not fade away as summer comes to a close.
There are lots of plants that will leap into action as the days shorten,
filling your patio with colorful foliage and plenty of flowers.
PREPARE THE POTS
WHEN TO PLANT
Late summer or autumn
Add clay pieces to the base of each
pot. If you are using tall planters
such as these, half-fill with clay or plastic
pieces (see p.110), then fill with soil to
within 4 in (10 cm) of the rim.
AT THEIR BEST
Autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
4 hours
POSITION THE PLANTS
YOU WILL NEED
Planters
Broken clay pot or plastic pieces
All-purpose potting soil
1. Salvia officinalis ‘Tricolor’
In autumn, plants don’t grow
very much, so avoid leaving gaps
as you would when planting summer
bedding. Pack your plants in closely
to make the planters look “finished.”
2. Lamium galeobdolon
AFTERCARE
3. Carex conica ‘Snowline’
4. Sedum ‘Lemon Coral’
5. Aster dumosus, purple hybrid
6. Heuchera ‘Amber Waves’
Densely planted containers can
get very dry, even in wet weather,
so water them regularly. These plants
do not need feeding since they will
soon become dormant and growth
will halt over winter.
1
6
2
5
4
3
149
Create a year-round shrub display
Containers are not just for summer flowers; displays for autumn and winter often last longer and help
brighten up these cold, dark months when viewed from the warmth of your kitchen or living room.
Make sure that the pot you buy can withstand low winter temperatures—frostproof clay pots tend to
be more expensive but should come with a guarantee and last for many years.
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
WHEN TO START
Early autumn
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Large frostproof container, at least
18 in (45 cm) deep and wide
Broken clay pot or plastic
pieces
Soil-based potting mix
Mulching material
All-purpose granular fertilizer
Plants used in shrub display (left):
Skimmia japonica ‘Rubella’
Juniperus ‘Grey Owl’
Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’
Erica arborea var. alpina
‘Albert’s Gold’
PREPARE THE POT
Add some broken clay pot or plastic
pieces to the bottom of the
container, and cover them with a layer of
soil-based potting mix. Set the plants, still
in their original pots, on the potting mix
and check that they will sit about 2 in
(5 cm) below the rim when planted.
Keep them in the container, and start
to fill in around them with potting mix.
SLIDE THE PLANTS OUT
Pack damp potting mix around all
the pots up to their rims—only
one is shown here, but the method works
equally well with a few plants. Carefully
slide out the plants in their pots, to leave
spaces for planting.
TOP TIP: ANNUAL CARE
The container will need watering
frequently in the spring and summer.
Each year in early spring, remove
the mulch and top few inches of
potting mix and replace it with fresh
compost mixed with some all-purpose
granular fertilizer. Water immediately
after this, and then renew the mulch.
When the plants become congested,
plant them out in the garden or move
to larger containers.
TIP PLANTS OUT OF THEIR POTS
Water all the plants well before
tipping them out of their plastic
pots. If the roots are congested, gently
tease them out (see p.31). Carefully
replace them in their positions in the
container, and then firm more compost
into any remaining gaps.
ADD A MULCH
Add a layer of gravel, slate chips,
or other decorative mulch over the
soil. Water the container well and set it
on “feet” to allow the winter rains to drain
through easily. Place it where you can see
it easily from the house, and continue to
water it during the autumn and winter if
the soil under the mulch feels dry.
151
SELECTIONS >>
152 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Shrubs for pots
Offering great value with their decorative foliage, sculptural forms, and
seasonal flowers, shrubs in containers are also fairly easy to look after,
if you choose both container and plant carefully—a large pot will grant a
greater choice of shrub and require less frequent watering than a small
one. The plants here will all be happy in a container for a few years if
you replace the top layer of soil and feed them annually each spring.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Rhododendron ‘Hydon Dawn’; hs3 ft (1 m) Ab(acid soil)E H9–7 2 Rock rose, Helianthemum
apenninum; h16 in (40 cm) s24 in (60 cm) Ad H8–5
if clipped Ab(acid soil)E H12–1
3 Pieris japonica ‘Flamingo’; h4 ft (1.2 m)
4 Bay, Laurus nobilis; h4 ft (1.2 m) s18 in (45 cm)
s3 ft (1 m) Ab(acid soil)E H8–6
5 Hebe ‘Silver Queen’; HS24 in (60 cm) ABd H10–9
6 Fatsia japonica; h4 ft (1.2 m) s3 ft (1 m) BCe H10–8
HS3 ft (1 m) Ab(acid soil)E H9–6
7 Hydrangea serrata ‘Bluebird’;
8 Mock orange, Philadelphus microphyllus; Hs32 in (80 cm)
Bd H9–7 9 Viburnum tinus ‘Variegatum’; HS3 ft (1 m) ABE H10–8
Vale’; HS24 in (60 cm) AD H9–8
0 Lavandula ‘Willow
153
SELECTIONS >>
<<
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
Tiered courtyard
The perfect solution for a plant-lover with a tiny plot, this dramatic
show garden features tiered raised beds that are bursting with
color to make the most of a small patio.
FILL THE BEDS
WHEN TO PLANT
Early spring
Unless you have experience in this
type of work, a professional should
build these beds, made from mediumdensity blocks, because they must be safe
and drain freely. Once built, line them with
4 in (10 cm) of gravel and fill with soil.
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 day to plant
PLANT UP
YOU WILL NEED
Soil-based potting mix
Well-rotted organic matter
All-purpose granular fertilizer
Gravel to aid drainage
1. Rudbeckia hirta ‘Prairie Sun’
Set out the plants in their pots to
check that you are happy with the
display. They have been packed tightly
here to give an instant effect, but in
reality, they will need more space to grow.
2. Fatsia japonica
3. Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald
Gaiety’
4. Euphorbia characias Silver Swan
5. Agapathus, white form
6. Carex oshimensis ‘Evergold’
7. Coreopsis verticillata ‘Moonbeam’
AFTERCARE
Plant them up at the same depth
as they were in their original pots,
adding some granular fertilizer to the
planting holes as you go. Water well,
and feed the beds annually in spring.
The shrubs here are evergreens, but
the flowers will die down in winter.
7
5
6
1
4
2
3
155
156 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Plant a winter hanging basket
Seasonal hanging baskets add a splash of color to the garden throughout the coldest months. This
one includes a few cyclamens, winter-flowering violas, and a range of evergreens. In colder climates,
evergreen boughs and branches with berries can be combined for winter color.
WHEN TO PLANT
Early autumn
AT ITS BEST
Autumn to early spring
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Hanging basket
Liner
Plastic bag
Wide low pot
Scissors
Container potting soil
Newspaper
Small plastic pot
Watering can
Skimmia japonica ‘Rubella’
Heathers, Erica
Cyclamen
Winter-flowering violas
Small ivies, Hedera helix
BEFORE YOU PLANT
Stand the basket on a wide pot to
keep it stable during preparation.
Then add a specially made basket liner.
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
Woven basket mix
CUT OUT PLANTING HOLES
Lay a circle of plastic bag over the
bottom of the liner to act as a
reservoir. Cut out a few evenly spaced
crosses around the sides of the liner.
This basket is easier to plant up than an open-sided one because it already has
a liner inside, but remember to make a few drainage holes in the plastic before
planting. You can use a range of foliage plants, including ones like this yellowleaved Choisya that can grow quite large, since plants put on little growth
in winter. Violas also flower reliably in cooler months, if kept in a sheltered spot.
WHEN TO PLANT
Early autumn
AT ITS BEST
Autumn to early spring
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
ADD IVY AROUND THE EDGE
Add a layer of potting soil to the
bottom. Wrap paper around the root
ball of each ivy and push them through
the holes in the sides.
Woven hanging basket
Scissors
Wide low pot
Container potting soil
Watering can
Choisya ternata Sundance
Deadnettle, Lamium
maculatum ‘Aureum’
Small ivies, Hedera helix
Winter-flowering violas
Gaultheria procumbens
PREPARE THE BASKET
FINISHING TOUCHES
Place the basket on a low pot
to stabilize it and punch a few
drainage holes in the plastic liner. Half
fill the basket with potting soil, then
arrange your plants on top.
Remove the plants from their
pots, place them in the basket
and then firm them in with soil, as
described in step 4 (left), and water
well. Water baskets during dry spells.
TOP TIP: ORGANIC BASKET LINER
PLANT THE TOP AND WATER
Add the plants and fill in around
them with more soil. Firm them in.
Place a small plastic pot near the center
to act as a watering reservoir. Water into
this pot to make sure it reaches the
plants’ roots.
For a natural, organic alternative to
a plastic liner, use conifer clippings
from a hedge or tree. These also
help insulate the plants and will
decompose over time and create
an acidic soil environment, ideal
for Gaultheria to thrive.
157
158 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Keep a tree for life
Recycle your Christmas tree by potting it on and enjoying it on your patio throughout summer.
Then bring it back inside for a second or even third season before planting it outside in the ground.
Tree choices
If you want to keep your tree after
Christmas, it is important to buy one
that has been grown in a container. To
check that a tree is suitable for growing
on, carefully slide it out of its pot and
check that it has lots of small feeder
roots, just like any other containergrown plant you would buy.
These are the most commonly available
container-grown trees:
1 Norway spruce, Picea abies (also main
picture) 2 Fraser fir, Abies fraseri
3 Nordmann fir, Abies nordmanniana
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
Caring for your tree
To ensure a wide choice, buy your tree early in the season. Water it every day, and
prevent needle loss by storing it in a shed, garage, or greenhouse with good natural
light for a few weeks before bringing it inside. Display your tree in a cool place
indoors, keeping it well watered, and repot it in the New Year.
WATER WELL
WHEN TO START
Late winter to early spring
When the festive season is over,
store your tree for a few weeks in
a shed, as you did before bringing it into
the house for Christmas. Water it frequently,
and don’t allow the soil to dry out.
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
PREPARE A NEW
CONTAINER
Large plastic pot
Broken clay pot pieces
Soil-based ericaceous
potting mix
Sturdy gloves
Well-rotted organic matter,
such as manure
All-purpose granular
fertilizer (eg, Growmore)
Clippers
Buy a plastic pot,
which will be light and
easy to move around, one
size larger than the original
container. Put some broken clay pot pieces over
the drainage holes at the bottom and add a layer
of soil on top.
ADD FERTILIZER
REMOVE THE TREE
Check that there is
2 in (5 cm) between
the top of the root ball
and the pot rim. Fill in
around the roots with soil
mixed with some fertilizer.
Wearing heavy-duty
gloves, squeeze the
tree’s pot around the sides
to dislodge the root ball,
and then slide it out. Place
the tree in its new pot.
SHAPE UP
Water the
tree well.
Trim back the
stems lightly with
clippers to create
a cone shape. If
there are two stems at the top, cut one
back to a bud to leave a single “leader.”
TOP TIP: TRIMMING FIRS
Fir stems end with a
three-pronged fork; to
trim them, cut out the
middle prong, which will
stimulate bushy growth
along the stem. Do not
cut the single, main
“leader” stem at the top.
159
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
Luscious leaves
With their bold foliage and wide color range, hostas are the darlings
of the designer world. Grow a few in pots on a shady patio for a lush,
sophisticated display that will last from early summer until the autumn.
CHOOSING POTS
WHEN TO START
Spring
First choose suitable containers.
Hosta ‘Francee’ and H. ‘August Moon’
have spreading habits and suit wide pots,
while H. ‘Krossa Regal’ is more upright and
looks best in a taller container. H. fortunei
f. aurea is small in stature, so select a little
pot for this diminutive plant. Buy frostproof
containers for your hostas; they are perennial
plants and will pop up year after year.
AT THEIR BEST
Early summer to early autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
4 pots of different sizes
Soil-based potting mix
Broken clay pot pieces
Slow-release fertilizer
Horticultural grit
PLANTING UP
Prepare your pots according to the
instructions on page 111, and water
the hostas well before planting. Add
slow-release fertilizer to the compost
and plant the hostas slightly deeper than
they were in their original pots. Water
them and apply a gritty mulch to deter
slugs and snails (see Top Tip, below).
1. Hosta ‘Francee’
2. Hosta ‘Krossa Regal’
3. Hosta fortunei var. albopicta
f. aurea
4. Hosta ‘August Moon’
AFTERCARE
1
2
4
3
Hostas like damp conditions and
need frequent watering, especially in
summer. Use about half a full watering can
on each plant, so that the moisture reaches
the bottom of the pot. Take precautions
against slugs and snails, and feed annually.
TOP TIP: SLUG AND SNAIL REPELLENTS
To keep your hostas free from slug and snail damage,
sprinkle a few slug pellets sparingly around young
plants after planting. Organic controls include pouring
used coffee grounds around the plants, applying
a mulch of eggshells or grit, or fixing a copper strip
around each pot (right). Alternatively, see pages
426–427 for biological controls.
161
162 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Create a winter windowbox
When your summer flowers are spent, and window displays are looking bedraggled and dull, give
them a quick makeover with colorful evergreens that will last the course through the coldest winter.
This combination of conifers, shrubs, grasses, and herbs is guaranteed to perform for many months.
WHEN TO START
Early autumn
AT ITS BEST
Early autumn to spring
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Large windowbox
Ericaceous potting mix
Broken plastic pieces
Bucket
Carex oshimensis ‘Evergold’
Cupressus macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’
Golden thyme, Thymus pulegioides
‘Archer’s Gold’
Leucothoe Scarletta
BEFORE PLANTING
Buy a frost-resistant windowbox—
this one is made from terracotta,
but a plastic imitation would be best if
you live in a cold, exposed area that is
prone to frosts. Check that your plants
fit comfortably in the container.
SOAK THE PLANTS
Water each plant well, either with
a watering can without a rose, or
by dunking the plants in a bucket of water.
Allow the bubbles to dissipate, then
remove the pots and allow them to drain.
PROVIDE GOOD DRAINAGE
Break up a plastic plant tray and
add the pieces to the bottom
of the windowbox. Then add a layer of
ericaceous potting mix—the Leucothoe and
Gaultheria are both acid-loving plants and
do best in this type of soil.
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
Extend the season
This colorful windowbox makes a bright winter display with a mixture of
pansies and textured evergreens. Then, as the weather starts to warm up,
blue grape hyacinths and dainty daffodils (not in flower here) appear in
succession to keep the interest going throughout spring.
PLACE PLANTS IN POSITION
Place the plants in their original
pots in the windowbox and make
sure that they will sit about 1 in (2 cm)
below the rim when planted to allow
sufficient space for watering.
YOU WILL NEED
Large windowbox
Multipurpose potting mix
Broken plastic pieces
Bucket
Stipa tenuissima
Japanese tassel fern,
Polystichum polyblepharum
Winter-flowering pansies,
Imperial Antique Shades
Cupressus macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’
Grape hyacinth, Muscari
Narcissus ‘Topolino’
TOP TIP: CARING FOR PANSIES
PLANT UP AND FIRM IN
Plant up and fill in around each
plant with soil, firming it in with
your fingers as you go. Water well. Water
your box once or twice a week in winter,
and more frequently in spring.
Winter-flowering pansies will bloom
throughout the cold winter months,
although they put on their best
performance in spring. Remove the
dying flowers as you see them, and
if plants become straggly in spring,
renovate them by cutting the stems
back to 3 in (8 cm). Then apply an
all-purpose fertilizer and water in well.
PLANT UP BULBS
Follow Steps 1 to 3 opposite.
Evenly space the narcissi bulbs on
the layer of soil, and plant the rest of the
plants carefully between them.
FINISHING TOUCHES
Fill in around the plants and cover
the bulbs with soil, up to about 3 in
(8 cm) from the rim. Add a few grape
hyacinth bulbs between the plants and
then cover with soil to about 1 in (2 cm)
from the rim. Firm gently and water.
163
SELECTIONS >>
164 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Plants for winter patios
There are many bedding plants that provide welcome color throughout
the winter months in frost-proof containers on a patio or terrace. Pansies
and primulas will flower during all but the coldest spells, and the foliage
of ornamental cabbage intensifies as the weather cools. You can also use
small specimens of evergreen shrubs, such as Euonymus, Skimmia, and
Choisya, and plants with bright berries, including Gaultheria.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Ornamental cabbage, Brassica oleracea; hs18 in (45 cm) Ad H6–1
purple cultivar; h8 in (20 cm) s10 in (25 cm) ABdE H9–1
h24 in (60 cm) s36 in (90 cm) Ade H7–1
(60 cm)Bde H8–6
2 Viola x wittrockiana
3 Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’;
4 Asplenium scolopendrium; h20 in (50 cm) s24 in
5 Checkerberry, Gaultheria procumbens; h6 in (15 cm) s3 ft (1 m) Be
H8–1 6 Helictotrichon sempervirens; h4½ ft (1.4 m) s24 in (60 cm)Ad H9–1
japonica ‘Rubella’; hs30 in (75 cm) ABdE H9–7
(30 cm)ABDe H12–6
AD H10–8
H7–5
7 Skimmia
8 Ivy, Hedera helix ‘Eva’; h4 ft (1.2 m) s12 in
9 Mexican orange blossom, Choisya ternata Sundance; hs8 ft (2.5 m)
0 Primula Polyanthus Group, Crescendo Series; h6 in (15 cm) s8 in (20 cm) ABde
q Senecio cineraria ‘Silver Dust’; hs12 in (30 cm)Ad H12–1
165
SELECTIONS >>
<<
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
Cool combinations
Summer patio displays often lack height and structure, but this simple idea solves both problems. Stack
pots of annuals on the steps of an old wooden ladder and use tall cosmos in containers on the ground
to create a tower of flowers and foliage. Choose bright sunny colors or select elegant cool notes, like
the blues and whites used here. Remember that the tiny pots will need watering every day in summer.
PREPARE THE LADDER
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer to early autumn
Rub down the ladder with
sandpaper to remove dirt and
grease, and either paint it with a clear
preservative or a wood stain. Collect your
plants and pots, and decide how you
would like to pair them up. Make sure
all the pots have drainage holes in the
bottom—drill some if they don’t—and put
a few pieces of broken clay pot or plastic
plant trays over the holes.
1
2
TIME TO COMPLETE
3–4 hours
YOU WILL NEED
3
Blue and white containers
Broken clay pot pieces
Multipurpose potting mix
Slow-release granular fertilizer
Gray slate pebbles
4
PLANT THE CONTAINERS
5
1. Salvia farinacea, blue
2. Cosmos bipinnatus ‘Purity’
3. Chives
4. Antirrhinum majus, white
6
5. Ophiopogon planiscapus
‘Nigrescens’
6. Lobelia erinus, white .
Cover the clay or plastic pieces with
a layer of multipurpose potting mix.
Then arrange the plants, still in their pots,
in the containers and check that you are
happy with your collective display. Also
make sure that the plants will be about
1¼–1½ in (3–4 cm) below the rims when
planted. Water the plants well, remove
them from their pots, and plant them up,
firming in soil around them.
AFTERCARE
TOP TIP: SOW COSMOS SEEDS
Cosmos are tall airy plants with feathery
foliage and a continuous display of white or
pink summer flowers. Despite their delicate
appearance, they are very easy to grow from
seed, and one packet will give you sufficient
plants to fill five or six containers. Simply
follow the instructions for sowing large seeds
(see p.108), and the seedlings should appear
within a few days. Cosmos are not hardy, and
must be kept inside until the risk of frost has
passed. Deadhead faded flowers regularly.
Add some fertilizer to the soil, and
water the plants in well. Scatter
decorative pebbles over the surface to
finish the pots off and to help minimize
moisture loss. Then arrange the pots on
the ladder, wedging the smaller ones
between the steps, if necessary, to keep
them in place. Water the containers every
day, and remove the fading blooms
regularly. If plants start to flag later in the
season, apply a dose of tomato fertilizer.
167
Create a table-top display
Just as you might place a vase of flowers on a dining-room table, why not decorate your garden furniture
as well? This pot, planted with scented alpine pinks and pretty sea heath, Frankenia, makes a droughttolerant table centrepiece that will provide color and interest throughout the summer months.
WHEN TO PLANT
Early spring
AT ITS BEST
Spring to autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Shallow bowl
Broken clay pot pieces
Soil-based potting mix and grit
Pink, Dianthus ‘Devon Flores’
Sea heath, Frankenia thymifolia
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
Decorative and fun ideas
Evergreen alpines and other drought-tolerant plants are ideal for table displays.
You can also try low-growing herbs, such as thyme, or for a more seasonal
design, plant bulbs and spring flowers. For the best overall effect, use containers
that complement your garden furniture and tableware.
PREPARE
THE POT
Choose a pot
that is slightly
deeper than the
plants’ root balls.
Place a piece of
broken pot over the
drainage hole, and add a layer of gravel.
Mix two parts of soil-based potting mix
to one part of horticultural grit in a bowl.
PLANT UP
Water the plants well. Add a thin
layer of soil over the gravel and
position the plants on top, with the pinks
in the middle. Use the soil and grit mixture
to fill in around the plants.
CARING FOR YOUR DISPLAY
Place your display on a table that
is in full sun for at least half the
day. Water and feed it regularly, and the
plants will perform well in the same pot
for a number of years after planting.
1 Use a cup and saucer, and a milk pitcher, topped with pots of mind-your-own-business
(Soleirolia soleirolii) to make this fun centerpiece. 2 Garden succulents, including
houseleeks, need little soil and water to thrive, and come in a range of colors and forms.
Plant them in a shallow tray for a textured design. 3 Fresh herbs are a must for any
garden, and this line of thymes in tiny terracotta pots is a fresh way to grow and display
them. 4 Lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis) is unmatched for spring scent. Line a
basket with perforated plastic, and plant up a number to welcome in the season.
169
<<
CREATIVE CONTAINERS
Up on the roof
Perfect for a modern patio or roof terrace, this contemporary
design combines drought-tolerant grasses and spiky irises to enclose
a stylish dining area. The smooth lightweight metal containers
complement the textured foliage plants and gravel floor, and create
a barrier that shields diners from wind and prying eyes.
SITE YOUR CONTAINERS
WHEN TO START
Spring
Select large zinc, galvanized, or
powder-coated metal containers
that will not rust. Position rectangular pots
close together to form a wall around your
seating area, and use round ones to create
focal points. Apply a thin coat of baby oil
to zinc pots to clean off any marks and
maintain their finish.
AT ITS BEST
Late spring to early autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 day
YOU WILL NEED
Large lightweight containers
Gravel
Broken clay pot pieces
Multi-purpose potting mix
Slow-release granular fertilizer
1. Calamagrostis x acutiflora
2. Bearded iris (not in flower)
3. Boxwood, Buxus sempervirens
4. Panicum virgatum
5. Stipa tenuissima
ADD PLANTING
All plants here enjoy full sun and
free-draining soil, conditions that
suit containers on a roof terrace. Make sure
pots have drainage holes, or drill some,
and cover these with clay pieces. Then
add potting mix, half-filling the containers.
Apply fertilizer, and plant the grasses and
boxwood (see p.151). Add more soil to the
iris containers and plant them so that the
rhizomes (bulblike structures) lie on top
of the soil (see p.31).
LONG-TERM CARE
5
1
4
2
3
Water in the plants well, and lay
2 in (5 cm) of gravel on the floor.
Water the containers regularly during
spring and summer. The following
spring, remove the top layer of potting
mix and replace it with fresh potting mix,
with some slow-release fertilizer. The
Calamagrostis and Panicum are deciduous
but their dried stems add interest in
winter; the iris dies down completely,
but reappears in spring.
171
172 CREATIVE CONTAINERS
>>
Braid a bay tree
Bay trees can be kept trimmed to make classic evergreen lollipop-shaped topiary. Straight stems
look handsome, but for extra texture you can braid or twist several stems around each other. It is an
expensive look that you can achieve yourself; all you need are young plants and time for them to grow.
WHEN TO PLANT
Late spring or early summer
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
4 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Two or three young bay plants,
or a plant with suckering stems
Sharp spade
Clippers
Large container
Broken clay pot pieces
Soil-based potting mix
Slow-release granular
fertilizer
REMOVE LEAVES
Make sure that the bay stems are
planted at the same depth as they
were in the ground or pot. Use clippers
to remove the leaves from the lower
two–thirds of the stems. Rub off any new
leaf buds with your fingers.
SELECT STRAIGHT STEMS
If you have a multistemmed bay,
dig it up and select the longest and
straightest stems. Alternatively, buy a plant
with lots of stems. Sever the root ball
between the stems with a sharp spade.
BRAID STEMS
In spring and summer, when the
wood is sappy, the stems should
be pliable enough to be loosely braided,
repeatedly passing the stems left over
right, right over left. It may look forced at
first, but will even out as the stems grow.
PLANT STEMS TOGETHER
Place some clay pot pieces in the
base of a large container, at least
12 in (30 cm) wide. Add soil-based potting
mix and some fertilizer, and plant two or
three stems as close together as possible.
TRIM OFF UNEVEN GROWTH
Once you have finished braided,
secure the stems temporarily with
strong garden twine, then trim off any
uneven growth to leave a compact head
(see right). As the tree grows, prune
lightly to encourage bushier growth.
Structural
Features
Trees are wonderful features, adding height, color, and shade
to beds and borders. They also provide striking focal points
in lawns. Follow the advice in this chapter to ensure that you
plant correctly, and remember to water your trees regularly
for the first two years. Hedges and climbers also make
beautiful vertical features; include a selection of different
types for flowers and foliage throughout the year, and lay a
carpet of lawn to create a natural green foil for your plants.
176 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Choosing a tree
Every tree brings a range of benefits to the garden. In addition to flowers and fruit, some offer sculptural
shapes, colored bark, vibrant autumn color, and differing degrees of shade, or a combination of these
qualities. The choice is wide, so decide what you want most from a tree before you buy one.
ASSESS YOUR NEEDS
Trees are an investment in time, money,
and space, so it is important to pick one
that suits your garden. Soil type and
aspect are important considerations, but
so too is the amount of space you have
available, bearing in mind how large the
tree will grow. Also remember that trees
cast shade, and draw large quantities of
moisture and nutrients from the soil,
affecting other plants growing nearby.
They can also undermine foundations with
their roots, so be careful to site your tree
at a distance from buildings. You should
also prioritize the qualities you want from
your tree, whether it’s esthetic beauty,
structure, privacy, or wildlife habitat.
Silver stemsp
Grouping several trees of the same species,
such as the Himalayan birch Betula utilis var.
jacquemontii, makes a strong visual impact.
SEASONAL INTEREST
Some trees have several seasons of interest,
and offer great garden value. Prunus serrula
has spring blossoms and copper bark for
winter appeal. Both Malus x moerlandsii ‘Liset’
and Sorbus vilmorinii have spring flowers and
autumn fruits; the Sorbus also has attractive
foliage. With spring flowers, summer berries,
and rich autumnal tints, Amelanchier lamarkii
has a lot to offer and is ideal for smaller plots.
1 Prunus serrula; E30 ft (10 m)
2 Malus x moerlandsii ‘Liset’; E20 ft (6 m)
3 Sorbus vilmorinii; E15 ft (5 m)
4 Amelanchier lamarckii; E30 ft (10 m)
<<
DESIGN EFFECTS
Trees play a number of useful and decorative roles in the
garden. Where there is space and a clear line of sight,
consider a tree with a strong structure, such as a birch or
decorative cherry, to act as a stand-alone focal point. A tree
with a good canopy, such as the Indian bean tree, Catalpa
bignonioides, provides shade from hot summer sun when
planted close to a south-facing seating area. Large-leaved
trees can also help create a tropical effect in the garden. Try
the fragrant snowbell, Styrax obassia, with its scented white
flowers, or the evergreen loquat, Eriobotrya japonica, an
ideal choice for year-round privacy.
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
a Welcome shade
With its broad leaves, the
Indian bean tree, Catalpa
bignonioides, acts like a
living parasol, providing
relief from the sun.
1 Yellow birch, Betula alleghaniensis;
h80 ft (25 m) s30 ft (10 m) 2 Crab apple,
Malus x magdeburgensis; E20 ft (6 m)
3 Loquat, Eriobotrya japonica; E25 ft (8 m)
177
178 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
How to plant a tree
An investment in time and money, a tree will eventually become a striking presence in your garden
and make a beautiful year-round feature. Plant it well and take care of it afterward, and your tree will
soon pay dividends, providing you with color, shade, and structure for many years to come.
WHEN TO START
Late autumn
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Tree
Spade
Fork
Cane
Stake
Tree tie
Mulch
Gardening gloves
TEASE OUT ROOTS
Lift the tree from the hole and
use your fingers to gently tease
the outer roots away from the root ball.
This will encourage them to root into the
surrounding soil, helping the tree establish,
and is particularly important if the tree is
“root-bound” (see p.20).
PREPARE THE GROUND
Dig a circular hole twice the width
and the same depth as the root ball.
Do not dig over the base, because this may
cause the tree to sink once planted. Instead,
puncture the base and sides with a garden
fork to encourage the roots to penetrate.
PLANT THE TREE
Hold the tree in the hole and turn
it round until its best side is facing in
the right direction. Then fill around the root
ball with the excavated soil. Do this in three
stages; adding soil and gently firming it
down with your foot each time. Make sure
there are no air pockets between the roots.
CHECK PLANTING DEPTH
Most trees are planted with their
root ball slightly above the soil
surface, which helps them to establish a
strong root system. Place the tree in the
hole, lay a cane across the top to check the
level, and add or remove soil as required.
GENTLY FIRM IN
Make sure the root ball is just above
the soil surface. As a guide, look for
the “nursery line”, where the trunk darkens
at the base, showing the level the tree was
grown at in the nursery. This must not be
buried. Then add a thin layer of soil over
the root ball so that no roots are exposed.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
ATTACH TREE TO WOODEN STAKE
Choose a stake that will reach a third
of the way up the trunk. Use a mallet
to hammer it into the ground at an angle of
about 45 degrees with the top facing the
prevailing wind. Attach a tree tie at the point
where tree and stake meet, using a spacer
to prevent them rubbing together.
AFTERCARE
Water the tree well, and then apply
a thick mulch, such as composted bark
chippings, to suppress competing weeds and
seal in moisture. Keep it clear of the stem.
Water the tree regularly for two years, and
check and loosen ties frequently. The ties can
be removed after two or three years when
the tree has fully established.
o Woodland scene
The delicate pink blossom of this hawthorn,
Crataegus, is followed in autumn by masses of
scarlet berries, which make a tempting feast for
birds. Ferns, hazel, and bleeding hearts (Dicentra),
enhance the texture and color of the border.
179
180 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Grow a sculptural fern
Tree ferns have huge, arching fronds, a unique trunk, and a shape reminiscent of their tropical rain forest
origins. Although expensive, they pay their way by adding drama and an exotic element to a garden,
and they flourish in awkward, damp, dark corners where most other plants struggle to grow.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
WHEN TO PLANT
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Pot-grown tree fern,
Dicksonia antarctica
Spade
All-purpose granular fertilizer
Garden stake
Watering can
CHECK PLANTING DEPTH
Dig a hole twice as wide as the
trunk and as deep as the height
of the container, then loosen the earth
at the base. Position the fern in the hole
and, with a stake, check that the final soil
level will be the same as it is in the pot.
Add or remove soil as necessary.
ADD FERTILIZER
Lift the tree fern from its hole and
add a small amount of a general
fertilizer, such as blood, fish, and bone
meal, to the base. Mix this into the soil
so that it does not touch the roots directly.
Tree ferns rarely need feeding after this
initial application.
TOP TIP: OVERWINTERING
The crowns of tree ferns need
protecting from the wet and cold
during winter. Make a chicken wire
frame around the plant and pack it
loosely with straw. Then cover with
a waterproof hat made from plastic
sheeting and tie it on securely. This
will insulate the plant and keep it dry,
but still allow essential ventilation.
FIRM IN AROUND BASE
Remove the tree fern from its pot
and place it in the hole. Check that
it is upright, then backfill with soil, using
your foot to carefully press all around the
edge of the plant to make sure it is held
firmly in place. Take care not to compact
the soil, because this may hinder drainage.
o Fern friends
Tree ferns make textural focal points in shady
corners, where they can be underplanted with
other low-growing plants, such as ferns and
hostas that enjoy similar conditions.
WATER THOROUGHLY
Tree ferns are unusual because,
rather than their roots, it is their
leafy crowns that need to be kept moist.
However, you should water them at the
base as well when first planting them,
because it helps settle the soil and hold
the trunk upright.
181
182 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Multi-stemmed trees
Some trees have particularly beautiful bark, and you can create a
dazzling effect by encouraging them to develop multiple stems. This
involves some drastic pruning, but the end result is well worth it.
WHEN TO PLANT
Late autumn
TOP TIP: PLANTING OPTIONS
AT THEIR BEST
Winter
Some trees are better suited than
others to growing as multi-stemmed
specimens, so if you are unsure, ask
before you buy. The following species
can all be grown in this way:
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours
YOU WILL NEED
One tree (see options)
Spade
Fork
Organic matter
Pruning saw
Stake
Tree tie
Eucalyptus
Himalayan birch, Betula utilis var.
jacquemontii
Snake bark maple, Acer davidii
Tibetan cherry, Prunus serrula
Hazel, Corylus
Willow, Salix
PREPARE THE GROUND
Dig out a planting hole, as deep as
the root ball, and at least twice as
wide. Puncture the base and sides of the
hole with a fork. Mix a little organic matter
into the excavated soil. Plant your tree so
that the rootball is slightly proud of the
surrounding soil surface, using a stake to
check the planting level. Backfill with soil,
stake, then secure firmly with a tree tie
(see pp.178–179). Water well.
PLANTING AND STAKING
You can buy multi-stemmed trees,
which require no further pruning,
but it is cheaper to buy a single-stemmed
tree and prune it yourself. Ideally you
should give it a full growing season first,
then the following winter, cut the trunk
to the ground, and remove the stake.
AFTERCARE
New stems will appear from the
base in spring, and become the
new framework of branches. If there are
many, prune them selectively to promote
a good shape. Water the tree freely the
first year after planting, and the year after
pruning to help it recover. Feed with a tree
and shrub fertilizer in early spring.
Snowy structure p
The peeling white bark of these Himalayan
birches provide a beautiful contrast to the
understory of ferns and astilbes.
SELECTIONS >>
184 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Trees for small spaces
Many gardeners are wary of planting trees in confined areas, but because
they take up very little space on the ground, it’s possible to squeeze a tree
into the smallest of gardens. All growth is at canopy level, providing privacy
and structure but leaving plenty of space for planting underneath. Choose
compact, more manageable trees; there are many available, whether you
are looking for spring flowers, autumn berries, or simply beautiful foliage.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
E moist soil F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Crab apple, Malus ‘John Downie’; h20 ft (6 m) s14 ft (4.5 m) ABE H8–5
Prunus x subhirtella ‘Autumnalis Rosea’; hs25 ft (8 m) ABE H8–6
palmatum ‘Sango-kaku’; h20 ft (6 m) s15 ft (5 m) ABe H8–2
h10 ft (3 m) s8 ft (2.5 m) Abe H9–1
H8–5
3 Japanese maple, Acer
4 Magnolia liliiflora ‘Nigra’;
5 Cornelian cherry, Cornus mas; hs15 ft (5 m) ABd
6 Dogwood, Cornus kousa ‘Miss Satomi’; hs15 ft (5 m) AE H8–5
hs25 ft (8 m) AE H8–3
ABe H8–3
2 Winter cherry,
7 Laburnum x watereri;
8 Hawthorn, Crataegus laevigata ‘Rosea’; h14 ft (4.5 m) s15 ft (5 m)
9 Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo; hs20 ft (6 m) Ad H9–6
siliquastrum; hs30 ft (10 m) Ad H9–3
0 Judas tree, Cercis
185
SELECTIONS >>
<<
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
Golden arch
A traditional laburnum walkway makes a spectacular feature in
early summer, and can be created in most gardens. Enjoy its blast
of seasonal color, and plant around it to double the display.
WHEN TO PLANT
Late autumn
AT ITS BEST
Early summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
4 days
YOU WILL NEED
4 laburnum trees (or more
for a longer walk)
Metal-framed fruit tree arch
Spade
Fork
Tree ties
Wire
INSTALL THE ARCH SUPPORTS
You can buy sturdy fruit tree or vine
arches in a variety of sizes to suit
your needs. Select two that will span your
walkway, or ask a blacksmith to make a
set to fit your design. Most metal arches
are simply set into the soil.
PLANT AND TRAIN
Plant one tree next to each arch
upright, water well, and secure
with a tree tie (see pp.178–179 for more
planting instructions). Train the branches
over the arch as they grow, tying them in
with tree or tube ties. Over time, you may
find it necessary to link the arches with
coated wires to support new stems.
TOP TIP: UNDERPLANTING
AFTERCARE
Water the trees regularly for
the first two years until they are
established, and check and loosen tree
ties every few months. Feed each spring
with a shrub and tree fertilizer to promote
the best possible display. Prune any
wayward branches in winter, and regularly
remove thicker, woodier growth to make
space for young flowering stems. Plant
other shrubs and climbers below and
nearby for additional color. All parts of a
laburnum are poisonous if ingested, so
do not plant where children or pets play.
o Golden veil
You need just four trees to create this
spectacular spring display. Underplant with
Alchemilla mollis to complete the effect.
Bulbs are ideal for planting beneath
your arch. Early bulbs, such as daffodils,
will flower before the trees, while
tulips and alliums (below) bloom at
the same time. Shade-loving ferns
will provide long-lasting interest.
187
188 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Grow trees from seeds
Even large trees can be kept to a manageable size when planted in a container, and they are easy to
grow from seeds you can find for free when walking in the park. In autumn, look out for conkers from
horse chestnuts, acorns from oaks, and sycamore seeds, all of which will germinate in a few months.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn
Tree seeds (here, we used a conker
from a horse chestnut tree)
Plant pot
Broken clay pot pieces
Soil-based potting mix
Trowel
AT THEIR BEST
Spring to autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
PREPARE TO PLANT
Check that your seeds are firm
and have no holes or other signs
of insect larvae inside. Place some clay
pieces at the bottom of the pot, and
nearly fill it with soil.
PLANT YOUR SEEDS
Plant the conker about 1 in (2 cm)
deep, and cover with soil. Water,
and place in a shady spot outside. Check
that the soil doesn’t dry out. Your seed will
sprout in spring.
Other seeds to try
It’s worth planting a range of tree seeds, just
in case some do not germinate. Collect seeds
when they are ripe—undamaged seeds that
have fallen to the ground will be at the right
stage—and plant them immediately, since
they dehydrate quickly if they are stored.
a Diminutive chestnut
If grown in the ground this chestnut would be
a large tree, but after ten years in a container,
it is still a small specimen, ideal for an urban
garden or patio.
EASY TO GROW
Collect ripe acorns, hazelnuts,
crab apples, eating apples, and
cherries, either from the park
or from your own or a friend’s
garden. Remove the flesh from
the fruits and wash the seeds first
before sowing. Many tree seeds
require a period of cold, or even
frost, before they will germinate,
so leave your pots outside where
they won’t get blown over.
Miniature woodland
Trees such as oaks, hollies, and rowans will grow large with time, but you can
restrict their size by planting them in containers or raised beds, as shown here.
Surround them with shade-loving plants to create a tiny woodland.
WHEN TO START
Autumn
AT ITS BEST
Spring to autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours to plant
YOU WILL NEED
Well-rotted organic matter
Drainage material
Soil-based potting mix
Young trees grown from seed
Male ferns, Dryopteris filix-mas
Woodruff, Asperula
Ivy, Hedera helix
PREPARE THE BED
Buy or build a raised bed (see
pp.254–255), or hire a landscaper
to construct a brick bed like this one.
Add drainage materials, such as broken
bricks, rocks, etc, to the base and fill
the bed with garden soil and some
well-rotted organic matter.
PLANT UP
First plant your young trees, staking
them if required (see Top Tip, right).
Position the woodland plants about 18 in
(45 cm) from the trees. Water well and
mulch. Keep the bed watered, even after
the plants have established.
TOP TIP: STAKING AND FEEDING
When your seedlings have grown,
you can either plant them in large
pots (see opposite), in raised beds
(above), or in the ground. In windy
sites, those planted in beds or the
soil may require staking (see p.179).
Check your trees regularly and loosen
the ties as the trunks expand. Remove
the stakes after a couple of years. In
spring, apply a shrub and tree fertilizer
to the soil. For those in pots, replace
the top 2in (5cm) of soil with new soil
mixed with some fertilizer.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
Blossoming beauties
There is no more spectacular harbinger of spring than an ornamental cherry tree bursting into bloom.
After a winter of bare branches come clouds of fluffy, pastel blossoms. Some produce fruits that
attract birds to the garden, and many also have good autumn color to end the year with a bang.
WHEN TO PLANT
Late autumn
AT ITS BEST
Spring
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Cherry tree
Stake
Tree tie
Spade
o Color match
Ornamental cherries flower before they are in
full leaf, which gives enough time and sunlight
for spring-flowering bulbs to add their own
splash of color beneath.
CHOOSE A SITE
Ornamental cherries grow best
in fertile, moist but well-drained
soil, in full sun, although they tolerate
partial shade and a drier soil once they
are established. Make sure there is ample
room for the tree to grow because some
mature into large trees.
PLANTING AND STAKING
Dig a hole the same depth as the
rootball and twice as wide. Plant
the tree so that its rootball is slightly
proud of the surrounding soil surface.
Hammer in a stake angled into the
prevailing wind. Attach it to the tree
using a flexible, adjustable tree tie
(see pp.178–179 for more detailed
planting advice).
Planting choices
Cherry trees come in a wide variety of
shapes, sizes, and colors to suit all gardens.
Prunus ‘Spire’ has a slender, upright habit,
ideal for smaller gardens. P. x subhirtella and
P. incisa are both compact trees with pale
pink flowers and attractive autumnal color.
P. ‘Shizuka’ is medium-sized, and has large,
scented, white semi-double flowers.
1 P. ‘Spire’; h30 ft (10 m) S 20 ft (6 m)
2 P. x subhirtella; E25 ft (8 m)
3 P. incisa; E25 ft (8 m)
4 P. ‘Shizuka’; E12 ft (4 m)
AFTERCARE
Water the tree thoroughly after
planting, and apply a mulch,
keeping it away from the trunk. Water for
the first two years. Check the tie often,
and loosen it if need be. In a couple of
years, you can remove the stake because
the tree will be fully established.
TOP TIP: PRUNING
If you choose the right-sized cherry for
your garden, the only pruning required
will be to remove dead, diseased, or
damaged growth. If you need to
shape your tree, do so after flowering
in early summer, because there are
fewer diseases then, and you will not
remove the flower buds.
191
192 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Plant an informal hedge
If you prefer a relaxed, rustic style of garden, avoid formal hedges, and opt instead for one that contains
a mix of species. This style of hedge is good for wildlife, as it provides food and somewhere to live. It is
also relatively easy to look after, needing just one trim per year in late autumn.
WHEN TO START
Autumn
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours, or more for long hedges
YOU WILL NEED
Wildlife hedging plants (blackthorn,
dog rose, hawthorn, hazel, holly)
Spade
Fork
String and pegs
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
PREPARE THE SITE
Hedges are permanent structures,
and fare best in well-prepared soil.
Dig over the area, removing all weeds,
especially the roots of perennials. Fork in
some organic matter deep into the soil to
improve its structure.
COMPRESS SOIL
Use your weight to compress the
soil, shuffling slowly over the entire
area. Then repeat this at right angles. If
planted immediately after it has been dug
over, the soil will settle, and plants will
not be anchored properly.
MARK GUIDE LINES
For a deep hedge, set out two
lines of string, held taut by pegs,
14–16 in (35–40cm) apart. These form
the planting guides for your two rows
of plants. For a narrower hedge, you
will need just one line of plants.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
Thorny barriers
PLANT IN TRENCHES
To ensure a really straight hedge,
dig out a long trench, rather than
individual holes. Plant one line at a time
and position the plants along its length,
about 14 in (35 cm) apart. Alternate the
different plant species for a mosaic effect.
An informal wildlife hedge can also double as a barrier to deter intruders
because many wildlife-friendly plants are covered in vicious spikes and thorns.
Deer will avoid barriers that look tricky or painful to negotiate, and are more
likely to go elsewhere for easier pickings. Alongside the classic native plants,
there are also many roses that make beautiful but fearsome hedges.
CHECK PLANTING DEPTHS
Hedging plants suffer when planted
too deeply or shallowly, so take
care to ensure that they are at the same
depth as they were in the nursery, or in
their pots. The stems will be darker where
they previously touched the soil.
SITE AND SOIL
Ideally most hedging plants,
including roses and the other
plants used here, prefer a sunny site, with
well-drained and fertile soil. If your soil is
not perfect, spend some time preparing
the ground by digging in plenty of organic
matter down to a spade’s depth.
PLANT OPTIONS
STAGGER PLANTING
If planting a double row, stagger
the second line, so that the plants
grow in the gaps between those in the
first row. Water in all plants well, and
mulch with organic matter, keeping it clear
of the stems. Water the hedge regularly
throughout the first year.
Berberis darwinii
Blackthorn, Prunus spinosa
Dog rose, Rosa canina
Field maple, Acer campestre
Guelder rose, Viburnum opulus
Hawthorn, Crataegus
Hazel, Corylus avellana
Holly, Ilex aquifolium
Rosa glauca
PLANT SPECIES ROSES
Follow the advice for planting
roses (see p.93). However, species
roses, which are ideal for hedges, do not
have a graft union, and are planted at
the same depth they were growing at in
their pots, or in the field (see Step 5, left).
AFTERCARE
Once plants have started growing
in spring, cut them back by about
a third to encourage bushy growth from
the base. Keep them watered throughout
their first year and regularly remove any
weeds around their base. This will prevent
your roses from having to compete for
nutrients and water while they are in
the process of becoming established.
193
SELECTIONS >>
194 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Hedging plants
Tiny or tall, hedges make beautiful natural screens and borders, providing
color and texture throughout the year. Choose an evergreen plant, such
as yew, boxwood, or lavender, and clip it closely for a smooth barrier, or try
a deciduous type with flowers and berries for a more seasonal effect. If you
want to create a home for wildlife, mix a few of each and trim just once
a year in late summer, after the birds have flown their nests.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Berberis thunbergii ‘Golden Ring’; h3 ft (1 m) s8 ft (2.5 m) ABd H8–5
sempervirens ‘Elegantissima’; E5 ft (1.5 m) ABd H8–6
ABe H9–6
2 Boxwood, Buxus
3 Forsythia x intermedia; E5 ft (1.5 m)
4 Lavandula angustifolia ‘Twickel Purple’; h24 in (60 cm) s3 ft (1 m) Ad H8–5
5 Yew, Taxus baccata; h30 ft (10 m) s25 ft (8 m) AcD H8–7 6 Privet, Ligustrum obtusifolium;
h10 ft (3 m) s12 ft (4 m) ABd H7–1 7 Potentilla fruticosa ‘Goldfinger’; h3 ft (1 m) s 5 ft
(1.5 m) Ad H7–1 8 Holly, Ilex aquifolium ‘Madame Briot’; h30 ft (10 m) s15 ft (5 m) Ae H9–7
9 Garrya elliptica; E 12 ft (4 m) ABD H12–8
s15 ft (5 m) ABd H9–6
0 Firethorn, Pyracantha ‘Mohave’; h12 ft (4 m)
q Hornbeam, Carpinus betulus; h50 ft (15 m) s40 ft (12 m) ABd H8–1
195
SELECTIONS >>
<<
196 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Plant a formal hedge
Yew, hornbeam, and beech make excellent closely clipped hedges, and you can reduce the cost by buying
young bare-rooted plants from late winter to early spring from specialist nurseries and growing them on
yourself. Prepare your soil in advance and plant immediately, unless the soil is frozen or waterlogged.
PREPARE THE SITE
WHEN TO PLANT
Late autumn to early spring
Six weeks before planting,
remove all weeds from the
site and dig a trench the length
of the hedge and 3 ft (1 m) wide.
Fork in organic matter, and refill
the trench. Set out a line to mark
the edge of the hedge.
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
4 hours or more depending on
hedge size
YOU WILL NEED
Young bare-rooted hedging plants
(yew, Taxus baccata, shown here)
Well-rotted organic matter,
such as manure
Spade
Fork
Stakes
Garden string
Watering can or hose
All-purpose granular fertilizer
MARK PLANTING
INTERVALS
Dig a trench twice as
wide and as deep as the plants’
root balls. Using a ruler or guide,
lay stakes at 18–24 in (45–60 cm)
intervals along the string line
to mark the planting distances.
CHECK
PLANTING
DEPTHS
Check that the plants
will be at the same
depth as they were
in the field when
planted—you will see
the soil line just above
the roots. Place one
plant by each stake,
and backfill around the
roots with soil, removing
any air gaps with
your fingers.
FIRM IN WELL
When in place,
check that the
plants are upright and
then firm in around them
with your foot. Create
a slight dip around
each plant to act as a
reservoir, and water
well. Add a thick mulch
of compost or manure,
keeping it clear of the
plant stems. Water for
the first year and feed
plants annually in spring.
Using pot-grown plants
Some plants, such as lavender, boxwood, holly, and privet,
are not generally available in bare-root form and are grown
and sold in pots. The planting technique is similar to that for
bare-root types but pot-grown hedging can be planted at any
time of year, as long as the soil is not frozen or very dry.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO START
Any time; early autumn
or spring is best
AT ITS BEST
All year (evergreen)
Spring to autumn
(deciduous)
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours or longer
depending on hedge size
Pot-grown holly plants,
Ilex aquifolium
Well-rotted organic
matter, such as manure
All-purpose granular
fertilizer
Spade
Fork
Stakes
Garden string
Watering can or hose
DIG PLANTING HOLES
Prepare the soil and
mark out the area as in
Steps 1 and 2 opposite. Either
dig a long trench or individual
holes for each plant—holes
need to be as deep as the root
ball and twice as wide.
TEASE OUT ROOTS
If planting in spring,
add some fertilizer to
the excavated soil. Tease out
any congested roots before
planting at the same depth
as the plant was in its original
pot. Firm in with your foot
and water well. (See Step 4
opposite for aftercare.)
198 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Create a lavender hedge
The perfume from a lavender hedge is without equal, while the beautiful purple flowers attract scores
of bees and butterflies in summer. The strongest scent is released when the flowers are brushed, so
plant your hedge where you can run your fingers through the stems as you pass.
WHEN TO PLANT
Spring
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Small lavender plants
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Horticultural grit
Trowel or small spade
All-purpose liquid fertilizer
PREPARE THE GROUND
A month or two before planting
your hedge, dig plenty of wellrotted organic matter into the soil to
improve drainage. Also dig horticultural
grit into heavy, clay soils, as lavender
will rot in wet conditions.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
Shear your lavender
SPACE PLANTS EVENLY
In spring, buy small plants and
make holes at 12in (30cm)
intervals, or dig out a long trench. The
plants will not require additional fertilizer
at this stage. Plant so they are at the
same level as they were in their pots.
Although lavenders are generally easy plants, requiring little or no additional watering
once established, they do need annual care. Leave small, young plants unpruned for
the first 12 months after planting to allow them to put on some growth, but in
subsequent years cut your hedge twice a year to prevent it becoming leggy.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO START
Late summer, after flowering,
and early spring
Garden shears
Household disinfectant
Clippers
All-purpose liquid fertilizer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour or longer depending on
hedge size
PRUNE INTO SHAPE
To keep your lavender plants young,
bushy and healthy, cut them back in
late winter or early spring. Clean your tools
thoroughly and spray them with a household
disinfectant before you begin work. Then,
using sharp shears, cut the stems back as
close as possible to the old wood.
FIRM IN SOIL
In heavier, clay-rich soil, plant the
lavenders slightly above the soil
surface, and draw up soil around the root
ball, to encourage water to drain away
from the base of the plant. Firm in around
all the plants with your fingers.
THE CORRECT
CUT
Take care not
to cut into old brown
wood, since the
plants will not reshoot
from this. Shear to a
few healthy leaves
above the brown
stems (right), and work systematically along
the hedge, keeping it as level as possible.
WATER IN
Water the plants well. Although
lavenders are very drought-tolerant,
they will need to be watered for the first
growing season until they are fully
established. In spring, apply an all-purpose
liquid fertilizer to the plants and cut them
back twice a year (see right).
AFTER FLOWERING
In late spring or early summer, the
sheared plants will grow an abundance
of side shoots to create a compact, bushy
hedge. To keep it neat, cut it back again after
flowering in late summer: remove all the old
flowerheads to prevent the plants from putting
their energy into making unwanted seed.
199
200 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Make a wall of fiery geraniums
Wander down any residential street in the Mediterranean region and you will find houses ablaze with
fiery geraniums. These drought-loving plants bask happily in the burning sun in their tiny terracotta pots,
creating a dazzling display that requires very little care. If you have a sunny wall, buy young plants in
late spring to create your own summer holiday effect at home.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO PLANT
Late spring
AT THEIR BEST
Early summer to early autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
Bedding geraniums, Pelargonium
Small terracotta wall pots
Broken clay pot pieces and gravel
Multi-purpose soil
Slow-release all-purpose fertilizer
Masonry nails or Rawlplugs
and coach bolts
Hammer or electric drill
PREPARE THE WALL POTS
Buy at least five wall pots and make
sure that each has a drainage hole—
if not, make one with an electric drill. Cover
the hole with a piece of clay pot. Add 1 in
(2 cm) of gravel and then a layer of soil to
the base of each container.
PLANT THE GERANIUMS
Water the plants. Put one geranium
(Pelargonium), still in its original
container, into the wall pot and check that
it will sit at least 1 in (2 cm) below the rim
when planted. Remove it from its pot
and plant up, firming in around it with
multi-purpose soil mixed with a little
slow-release fertilizer. Water well.
FIX POTS TO WALL
For a more dramatic effect, paint
the wall white or a pale color.
Hammer in a masonry nail at a slight angle;
alternatively, if you
can’t drive in a
nail, drill a hole
with an electric
drill, push in a
Rawlplug, and
screw in a coach
bolt. Fit the pots
onto the wall.
o Colorful combinations
Choose either a single color theme,
or try geraniums in a combination of
matching shades, as shown here.
TOP TIP: WATERING YOUR POTS
Geraniums require watering every
few days in summer, so make sure
you can reach them easily or use
a long-handled hose. As the plants
grow and their roots develop,
it is best to water them from below
by placing the wall pots in a bowl
of water for 30 minutes.
201
202 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Create a checkerboard
This simple design of square paving stones and plants could be used to create a dramatic courtyard or
a fun space for children’s playground games. Plant it up with turf, chamomile, mind-your-own-business
(Soleirolia soleirolii) or low-growing herbs, such as thyme or Corsican mint (Mentha requienii).
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 day
YOU WILL NEED
Turf or low-growing plants
Rake
Wooden boards
Tape measure
String and sticks
Sand and mortar mix
Mallet
Spirit level
Square paving stones
COMPACT THE SOIL
Clear the area of stones, weeds,
and grass, and rake it to create a
flat surface. Lay down a wooden board
and walk across it, moving it along
systematically to level the whole area.
MARK OUT THE SQUARES
Measure the paving stones, and
using string and some sticks mark
out the area into squares of equal size.
Cover squares that will be used for paving
stones with a 2 in (5 cm) layer of sand.
LEVEL THE SAND
Using the back of a rake, tamp
down the sand to compact and level
it. Don’t worry if some sand spills out into
the surrounding squares; any surplus can
be mixed with the soil for the plants or turf.
APPLY MORTAR
Mix up a wet mortar mix of four
parts sand (half-and-half sharp
sand and builder’s sand) to one part
cement, or use a prepared mix. Place
a trowel-full in the corners and in the
center of a paving stone square.
Plant a rockery wall
Dry stone walls make perfect homes for alpines, such as this aubretia, which
creates a mass of evergreen foliage and cascades of pretty flowers in spring.
Choose small plants and use this planting method to secure them in the wall.
YOU WILL NEED
BED IN PAVING STONES
Position the paving stone on the
mortar and use the wooden end of
a mallet to gently tap it into place. Use a
spirit level to check that it is level. Mortar
in each one in the same way and leave
them to set for a day or two.
WHEN TO START
Early autumn
AT ITS BEST
Spring
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
Bucket
Piece of dried turf
Alpines, such as:
Aubrieta
Campanula poscharskyana
Houseleek, Sempervivum
Gold dust, Aurinia saxatilis
Saxifrage, Saxifraga
PLANT UP
Fill between the paving stone with
topsoil and plant up the herbs or
turf. If using turf, lay it slightly above the
paving stones so you can run a mower
over the whole area. Water in. Keep plants
watered until they are established.
PREPARE TO PLANT
Take the dried turf and dunk it
in a bucket of water to drench it.
Remove and allow to drain. Water the
plant and remove it from its pot. Wrap
the damp turf around the plant roots.
EASE PLANTS INTO CREVICES
Carefully wedge the turf-wrapped
plant into a crevice. Fill around it
with a half-and-half mix of horticultural
sand and soil-based potting mix. Mist
the plant regularly.
SELECTIONS >>
204 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Plants for crevices
These little gems are never happier than when squeezed into tight spaces
between paving, or in a dry-stone wall, softening the hard edges with their
delicate blooms. Most are evergreen, with the exception of the Alchemilla,
Campanula, and Erigeron, and all are hardy, withstanding both hot sun and
low temperatures. Also ideal for tiny containers, you can use them to dress
up a dining table, or to grow in a line of small pots along a wall.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Sedum spathulifolium ’Cape Blanco’; h4 in (10 cm) s24 in (60 cm) Ad H9–5
‘Argenteovariegata’; h2 in (5 cm) s24 in (60 cm) Ad H7–5
2 Aubrieta
3 Arabis subsp. caucasica ‘Variegata’;
h6 in (15 cm) s20 in (50 cm)Ad H8–1 4 Phlox nana; h8 in (20 cm) s12 in (30 cm) Ad H8–7
5 Celmisia walkeri; hs12 in (30 cm) ABde H10–9
6 Alchemilla alpina; h3 in (8 cm)
s20 in (50 cm)ABE H8–1 7 Androsace sarmentosa; h3 in (8 cm) s12 in (30 cm) Ad H7–5
8 Erigeron karvinskianus; h6 in (15 cm) s3 ft (1 m) AD H7–5
(10 cm) s8 in (20 cm) Ad H9–5
H9–6
9 Dianthus ‘Little Jock’; h4 in
0 Alyssum wulfenianum; h4 in (10 cm) s20 in (50 cm) ABd
q Campanula var. turbinata carpatica ‘Jewel’; h4 in (10 cm) s24 in (60 cm) ABd H7–1
205
SELECTIONS >>
<<
206 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Turf a lawn
The quickest, if not cheapest, way to achieve a beautiful lawn
is to lay turf, but if your money is to be well spent, take time
to prepare your site a month or two beforehand.
TURF OPTIONS
Buy your turf from a specialist supplier and,
if possible, inspect it before purchasing to
ensure that it is weed- and disease-free.
Reject turf with patches of yellow or dying
grass. Your choice of turf will generally be
limited to high-quality ornamental grass for
formal lawns, and hardwearing utility turf
for walkways and play areas.
Grass choices p
Price may be an issue, but good-quality turf
from a reputable supplier may prove the best
value for money in the long term.
Lay turf
Turf should not be stored for long, so
agree a delivery date with your supplier
that allows you to lay it immediately.
WHEN TO START
Early autumn or early spring
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 day to prepare; 1 day to lay turf
YOU WILL NEED
Turf
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Horticultural grit
All-purpose granular fertilizer
Rake and broom
Sharp knife
Topsoil and horticultural sand
PREPARE THE SITE
Two months before the turf arrives,
weed the site thoroughly (see
pp.402–403). Dig 4 in (10 cm) of organic
matter into the soil, and plenty of grit
into heavy clay to increase drainage.
Level with a rake. Tread over the soil on
your heels in one direction, and repeat
at right angles in the other direction.
LAY THE FIRST ROW
Remove stones and debris from the
site, and leave for five weeks for
the soil to settle. Weed the site again and
apply an all-purpose granular fertilizer at
the recommended rate. Make sure the soil
is moist, not wet, before laying. Place the
first piece of turf at one edge, and tamp it
down with the back of a rake.
TOP TIP: SHAPING A LAWN
Use a hose or rope to create a
guide for a curved lawn, and with a
half-moon grass cutter or sharp spade
cut around your template. For a
straight edge, stretch some string
between two pegs pushed into the
soil at each end.
STAGGER THE JOINTS
Create a tight seam between turves
by butting them together so they
almost overlap and then pressing the
crease down firmly with your thumbs.
Continue to lay the turves in rows, and
stagger the joints, like a brick wall. Stand
on a plank of wood to protect the turf you
have already laid.
APPLY A TOP DRESSING
Do not use small pieces at the edge
of the lawn because they will dry out
quickly and shrink—instead, lay them in the
middle of the site. Scatter sandy loam, made
from topsoil mixed with horticultural sand,
into the joins and brush it into the turf to fill
any gaps. Water well, and water the lawn in
dry spells during the first growing season.
208 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Seed a lawn
Sowing lawn seed is much cheaper than turfing, but you will have to wait a few months before it is
ready for use. The best time to seed a lawn is in early autumn when the soil is warm and germination
quick; sowing in early spring is an option but the colder soil conditions may prolong germination.
WHEN TO START
Early autumn or early spring
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours or more for larger lawns
YOU WILL NEED
Lawn seed
Well-rotted organic matter
Horticultural grit
All-purpose granular fertilizer
Stakes or string
Pen and plastic cup
Bird-proof netting
CHOOSE YOUR SEED
Unlike turf, where you have a
choice of just two or three types,
lawn seed is available in many forms,
including seed for shady spots or dry
areas and clover lawns. Prepare the soil
as for turf (see p.206). Mark out a square
yard (meter) with stakes or string, and
weigh the right quantity of seed for that
area. Pour the seed into a plastic cup and
mark the top level with a pen. You can
then use it as a measuring cup.
SOW SYSTEMATICALLY
Cover the soil evenly by scattering
half the seed in the cup over the
square yard (meter) in one direction, and
then the other half at right angles. Set out
the next square and fill the cup to the
marked level; repeat the sowing process.
Continue in this way until you have sown
the whole area. If you have to walk over
soil you have already seeded, stand on
planks of wood to prevent your feet from
creating hollows in your new lawn.
PROTECT FROM BIRDS
Rake the seed into the soil to just
cover it. Water with a can fitted
with a rose, or spray lightly with a hose.
Cover the seed with bird-proof netting,
raised off the ground about 12 in (30 cm).
The seedlings should appear in 14 days;
continue to water regularly. When the
grass reaches 2 in (5 cm), make the first
cut with your mower on a high setting.
For autumn-sown lawns, maintain this
height until spring, then lower the blades.
Lay a chamomile lawn
Sweet, soothing, scented chamomile has long been a desirable alternative to grass, and with the
availability of turf, it is quick and easy to lay. Chamomile likes free-draining soil and, because it will
not tolerate heavy wear and tear, is most suitable for decorative lawns or fragrant seats.
WHEN TO START
Early autumn or early spring
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours or more for larger lawns
YOU WILL NEED
Chamomile turf
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Horticultural grit
All-purpose granular fertilizer
Topsoil and horticultural sand
LAY THE TURF
Prepare your site as for turf (see
p.206), and if you have heavy
clay, dig in lots of grit to ensure that
your soil drains freely; waterlogged soil
will kill chamomile. Turf will consist of
Chamaemelum nobile ‘Treneague’, a
nonflowering,
compact plant
that spreads
to form a
dense mat.
Lay the turf in
the same way
as grass (see
pp.206–207).
CARING FOR CHAMOMILE
There’s no need to mow chamomile
because it naturally grows to just
2½ in (6 cm) in height. Trim it occasionally
during summer, using garden shears to
remove straggly growth and sideways
spread. Pull out any weeds by hand before
they have time to establish—do not
use lawn weedkiller, which will kill the
chamomile. Each spring, apply a slowrelease granular fertilizer and sprinkle a
top dressing of sieved soil and horticultural
sand over the lawn. Tread in the dressing
to crush the stems, which promotes
strong root growth.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
Carpets of color
Create spectacular effects, even on a small scale, by naturalizing
bulbs in a lawn or under trees. Choose robust plants able to compete
with roots and grass: snowdrops, daffodils, or crocuses (shown here)
are ideal. Leave them to their own devices and they will gradually
spread, year after year, to form a beautiful flowering carpet.
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn
AT ITS BEST
Early spring
TIME TO COMPLETE
1–2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Spring bulbs – between 15 and
25 bulbs per 1 square ft (90 cm²)
Slim trowel or bulb planter
Spade
All-purpose granular fertilizer
PREPARE THE GROUND
In autumn, remove any perennial
weeds, such as dandelions and
daisies, and mow the grass. Since bulbs
dry out very quickly, try to plant them as
soon as possible after buying them. When
planting, choose a nice day when the soil
is not waterlogged or frozen.
PLANTING RANDOM GROUPS
To achieve a random, natural effect,
toss the bulbs into the air and plant
them individually where they fall. For
each bulb, dig out a small plug of soil
and turf, 2–3 times the depth of the bulb
with a slim trowel or bulb planter. Add a
little fertilizer, plant the bulb, and replace
the soil plug.
PLANTING IN SMALLER GROUPS
For smaller groups of bulbs, cut an H-shape into the grass with a sharp spade.
Holding the spade horizontally, slice under the turf and fold it back to reveal the
soil. Remove more soil for larger bulbs, such as daffodils (see p.41). Add a little fertilizer
and plant the bulbs. Cover with excavated soil and gently fold back the flaps. Water well.
211
212 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Plant a climber
Create a wall of flowers and foliage by clothing your boundaries and other vertical surfaces with
beautiful climbers. The planting method shown here is ideal for twining climbers (see opposite)
and roses that need some support; ivy and other self-clinging plants will not require wires.
WHEN TO START
Autumn or early spring
AT ITS BEST
Summer, for honeysuckle shown
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Climber—honeysuckle, Lonicera
periclymenum, used here
Screwdriver
Plastic-coated wire
Vine eyes
Well-rotted organic matter
All-purpose granular fertilizer
Bamboo canes
Garden twine
Bark chipping mulch
Spade and trowel
INSERT
CANES
WIRE UP YOUR SURFACE
Screw parallel rows of vine eyes,
18in (45cm) apart, into wooden
fence posts (use a drill and Rawlplugs
in concrete posts). Fix horizontal wires
between each row, and turn the vine eyes
a few more times to tighten the wires.
DIG A PLANTING HOLE
Prepare the soil (see pp.14–15).
Dig a hole twice as wide and a
little deeper than the plant pot, about
18in (45cm) from the fence or screen.
Place the plant in its pot into the hole
to check the planting depth.
Place the
bamboo canes
in the hole at
the edge closest
to the fence or
screen. Arrange
the canes in a
fan shape and
attach them to
the horizontal
wires. These
will provide the
climbing plant with a temporary support
until it reaches the wires.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
Choosing climbers
Climbers have developed a variety of means to adhere to vertical surfaces, and
knowing what method your chosen plant uses will help you provide the right
support. Use the examples below as a guide.
POSITION THE PLANT
Water the plant, then remove it
from its pot. Place it in the hole and
lean it toward the fence; make sure the
root ball is not above the soil surface. Add
fertilizer to the excavated soil and backfill.
HOW CLIMBERS CLIMB
Some climbers attach themselves to
surfaces without requiring additional
support. These include ivy (Hedera), which
clings using aerial roots, and Virginia
creeper and Boston ivy (Parthenocissus
species), which use adhesive pads. Plant
self-clingers with caution because they
can damage old or weak brickwork.
Roses climb using their thorns to hook
onto taller plants; unless you grow them
through a host plant, they need support
from horizontal wires or a trellis. Clematis,
sweet peas, passion flower (Passiflora),
and honeysuckle (Lonicera), among others,
use twining stems or tendrils to climb,
and are best supported by stakes or wires
thin enough for them to wrap around, or
by growing them through a host plant.
CREATE A RESERVOIR
Using some of the surrounding soil,
form a circular ridge around the
base of the climber to create a saucershaped depression. This acts as a water
reservoir, and guides moisture to the roots.
1 Ivy climbs via aerial roots 2 Virginia creeper grips with adhesive pads 3 Roses
hook their thorns onto supports 4 Passion flower tendrils grasp whatever is in reach.
SELECT THE RIGHT SUPPORT
FINAL TOUCHES
Tie the stems loosely to the
bamboo canes with garden twine.
Water the plant and mulch with organic
matter or chipped bark, keeping it clear of
the stems. Water regularly throughout the
first year, especially during dry spells.
Check the final height of your chosen climber,
and select a support that will be large and strong
enough for a mature plant. As an alternative to
wires (see left), you can tie smaller climbers
directly to a trellis, or a bought or home-made
obelisk (see pp.216–218). Threading climbers
through shrubs or trees takes up no extra space
and offers a dual effect—perfect for small plots.
213
SELECTIONS >>
214 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Clematis for all seasons
Thread these climbers through trees and shrubs or grow them over arches
and pergolas for color from spring to autumn. Their fluffy seedheads then
steal the show in winter, making clematis a must for any garden. Choose
a selection, starting with spring-flowering, scented armandii and montana,
followed by ‘Vyvyan Pennell’ and ‘Bees’ Jubilee’ in early summer, with the
remainder providing dazzling color from midsummer to autumn.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Clematis ‘Ville de Lyon’; h6–10 ft (2–3 m) ABE H9–1
ABE H9–1
3 Clematis ‘Vyvyan Pennell’; h6–10 ft (2–3 m) ABE H9–1
MacKenzie’; h22 ft (7 m) ABE H9–6
6 Clematis
7 Clematis ‘Bees’ Jubilee’; h8 ft (2.5 m)
8 Clematis x diversifolia; h6–10 ft (2–3 m) ABE H9–1
h10–15 ft (3–5 m) ABE H9–7
4 Clematis ‘Bill
5 Clematis henryi; h10 ft (3 m) ABE H9–1
montana var. rubens ‘Tetrarose’; h15 ft (5 m) ABE H9–6
ABE H9–1
2 Clematis ‘Etoile Rose’; h8 ft (2.5 m)
9 Clematis armandii;
0 Clematis viticella ‘Purpurea Plena Elegans’; h10 ft (3 m) ABE
H9–1 q Clematis ‘Ascotiensis’; h10 ft (3 m) ABe H9–1
215
SELECTIONS >>
<<
216 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Make an obelisk for climbers
Wooden obelisks suit almost any garden design, be it formal or a relaxed country-cottage style. Use
them draped with clematis or other flowering climbers to add height to a border, as a feature to flank
an entrance, or to create a focal point at the end of a walkway. Top-quality wooden types are expensive
to buy but you can make one yourself for a fraction of the cost.
WHEN TO START
Any time
AT ITS BEST
Depends according to planting
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
4 x 8 ft (2.5m) pieces of
1½ in x 1½ in (34mm x 34mm)
timber for uprights
2 small remnants for template
80 ft (25 m) of 1½ in x ½ in (34mm
x 9mm) batten, cut into short
lengths for horizontal struts
Remnants of 1 in x 3 in (25 mm x
75 mm) timber for top plinth
1 decorative finial
Galvanized 1½ in (34 mm) screws
Drill with countersinking bit
Screwdriver
Saw
Nontoxic wood stain or wood
preservative
SCREW IN A BATTEN
The uprights now form a
fat triangular shape. Lay
a piece of batten across the
uprights, 12 in (30 cm) from the
bottom ends. Using the drill with
the countersinking bit, make
holes in the batten and uprights,
and screw them together.
MAKE A TEMPLATE
First, make templates for the sides.
Drive two screws halfway into a
remnant, 5 in (12 cm) apart, for the top of
the obelisk. Drive two screws halfway into
a second remnant, 20 in (50 cm) apart, for
the bottom. Lay remnants parallel to one
another, 8 ft (2.4 m) apart. Place two
upright timbers between them to create
a quadrangle shape.
CREATE THE SHAPE
Bring the top ends of the
upright timbers up against
the screws in the top remnant
template, as shown. Repeat at the
other end of the timbers, butting
these up against the screws in the
bottom remnant template.
ATTACH A PLINTH
In the same way,
place a small
remnant for the plinth at
the top of the two uprights
(narrow end). Make four
holes, two in each upright,
and screw the plinth into
place to secure the top.
Clematis cladding p
To help clematis climb this obelisk,
tie garden twine between the
struts for the tendrils to cling to.
continued...
218 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
FINISH THE
BATTENS
TRIM THE ENDS
Using a saw, trim the
battens flush with
the sides of the uprights.
Repeat Steps 2 to 5 to
create a second ladderlike
structure and trim the
battens. Treat both with a
wood stain or preservative.
Following the
instructions in step 3, screw
more battens in place at
6 in (15 cm) intervals, from
the base to the plinth,
to create a triangular,
ladderlike structure.
FINISH THE SIDES
FIX SIDES
TOGETHER
Work your way up
the third side,
screwing the battens
carefully into place, and
then repeat the steps for
the fourth and final side.
Trim all the battens as
described in Step 6.
Fit the two sides
of the obelisk into the two
templates, as shown here.
Then, screw in a piece of
batten between the two
sides to start forming the
third side, lining it up
with the existing battens.
You may find this easier
if someone holds the
structure to keep it stable.
CUT THE CAP
FINISHING
TOUCHES
Screw in remnants
to complete all four
sides of the plinth. Measure
the top and cut a square to
fit. Stain it and, when dry,
screw it into place in each
corner to form a cap
ATTACH FINIAL
Wooden finials
are available in
various styles. Here, we
have used an acorn. Stain
the finial and screw it into
the center of the cap.
To complete the
project, stain the remaining
battens and touch up any
missed areas. The stain or
wood preservative will
prevent decay and prolong
the life of the obelisk.
Reapply it every couple
of years in early spring
before clematis and other
deciduous climbers start
growing. Secure the obelisk
in place either, by burying
the bottom 4 in (10 cm)
of the structure in soil, or
by using custom fence
post supports.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
Plant a clematis
Their elegance, color, variety, and exquisite flower shapes have catapulted clematis to the top of the
climbers’ charts. Plant them with care and you will enjoy these superstars for many years to come.
PREPARE THE GROUND
First, dig plenty of organic
matter into the soil. If growing
clematis up a wall or fence, position
the plant 18in (45 cm) away from it.
Dig a hole about 12in (30 cm) deep,
fork over the base, and add some
fertilizer to the excavated soil.
CHECK THE DEPTH
Clematis are best planted
deeply, so that if clematis wilt
strikes, the plant will survive (see p.432).
Place the clematis in its pot in the
hole, and lay a stake or string over it to
check that the lower stems will be 2 in
(5 cm) beneath the soil surface when
it is planted.
a Shade the roots
Choose a site where the clematis roots will be
shaded, and the flowers can reach the sun.
WHEN TO START
Early autumn
AT ITS BEST
Depends on variety, see pp.214–215
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Clematis plant
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure.
Spade and fork
All-purpose granular fertilizer
Bamboo cane
Wires and vine eyes (if planting
next to a wall or fence)
Garden twine
PLANT AND BACKFILL
After watering thoroughly,
remove the clematis from its
pot and plant it in the hole. Carefully
backfill with the fertilized soil, pushing
it gently between the brittle stems
with your fingers and making sure
there are no air pockets as you go.
AFTERCARE
Gently firm the soil with your
foot, and tie stems to an obelisk
or other support (see pp.212–213).
Water in well. Add a thick mulch of
well-rotted organic matter, keeping it
clear of the stems. Continue to water
regularly until the plant is established.
219
220 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Decorative vines
Vigorous climbing vines, such as grapes and Boston ivy, excel at
clambering up and over solid structures, blurring their lines with soft,
leafy growth. The best have attractively shaped foliage that displays
vibrant shades in autumn, adding an extra dimension to the garden.
WHEN TO START
Autumn
AT ITS BEST
Autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Vine, such as Vitis vinifera
'Purpurea' or V. coignetiae
Spade
Well-rotted organic matter
Twine
SELECT A SUPPORT
Vines are commonly grown over
pergolas and up walls, but they
look equally good when allowed to
scramble through large shrubs, trees, and
conifers. Look around your garden for
structures that require softening, or for
large plants that need brightening up.
Vine stems twine around their supports,
and will require wire or trellis attached
to pergolas or walls (see pp.212–213).
PLANT YOUR VINE
Large solid structures cast rain
shadows, and mature shrubs suck
lots of moisture from the soil. To ensure
your vine gets plenty of water, plant about
18 in (45 cm) away from your chosen
support, and lean the climber towards it.
Dig a large hole, incorporate well-rotted
organic matter, plant, and water the vine
in well (see also pp.212–213).
AFTERCARE
Regularly tie in new growth to the
wires or trellis to help secure the
stems to the support. Water the vine well
throughout the first year, and feed in spring
with a tree and shrub fertilizer.
o Colorful coat
While vines are useful for solid structures,
they can add extra interest to any large,
well-established shrub or tree that is
strong enough to support them.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
Cling-ons
Self-clinging climbers have no need for
wires or a trellis. Once attached, they
will clamber up your chosen structure
without any need for tying in, and are
great for time-poor gardeners.
The following are all self-clinging, and
develop bright red foliage in autumn:
1 Boston ivy, Parthenocissus tricuspidata;
h70 ft (20 m) 2 Virginia creeper,
Parthenocissus henryana; h30 ft (10 m)
3 Parthenocissus tricuspidata ‘Lowii’;
h70 ft (20 m)
o Vine-draped pergola
Decorative vines are vigorous and attractive
climbers that can produce large amounts of
tasty fruit for birds to enjoy. They also develop
fiery autumnal shades of red, purple, or orange.
221
222 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Make a rose arch
Add height and color to your garden with a classic timber arch,
framed with climbing roses and clematis. Available in kit form,
arches are very easy to assemble and the steps outlined here show
the basic method, although some types may differ slightly in design.
WHEN TO START
Any time
AT ITS BEST
Spring to summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 day
YOU WILL NEED
Rose arch kit
Tape measure
Galvanized screws
Electric screwdriver
Spade
Hard core (broken bricks,
stones, etc.)
Spirit level
Ready-mixed post-mix concrete
LAY OUT THE PIECES
Lay out all the pieces in the kit
on the ground. Starting with the
roof of the arch, align the short horizontal
pieces so that they slot into the two long
crossbeams that make up the roof. Use
a tape measure to check that they are
evenly spaced.
JOIN THE SECTIONS
Using galvanized
screws and an
electric screwdriver, join
the horizontal pieces
to the beams. Then, attach
the two vertical sides
of the arch onto the roof,
as directed by the kit
instructions. The trellis sides
in this arch came in two
complete sections that are
slotted into the roof.
Summer p
sparkles
This arch is
planted with
Rosa ‘Seagull’,
Clematis
armandii, and
golden hop,
Humulus
lupulus
‘Aureus’.
DIG OUT FOOTINGS
To secure the arch in the
ground, stand it in its final
site, and mark out the positions
of the four vertical legs. Dig holes
for the legs, 45 cm (18 in) deep
and 30 cm (12 in) wide. Add a
5 cm (2 in) layer of hard core to
the base of each hole.
POSITION THE ARCH
Tamp down the hard
core with a pole. With
help, lift the arch and lower its
legs into the holes. Make sure
each leg is standing on the
hard core base, and add or
remove material until all four
are solidly supported.
CHECK THE UPRIGHTS
Use a spirit level to make
sure that all the verticals
are correctly aligned, and that
the horizontal pieces are level.
If necessary, manoeuvre the arch
until it is perfectly upright; when
you are satisfied that it is, pack
more hard core around the legs.
MORTAR IN THE LEGS
Pour the ready-mixed
concrete into each hole,
up to ground level, ensuring
that it completely surrounds
the legs. Slowly add water to
the holes to soak the concrete,
and allow it to dry and harden
for a day or two. Now stain
the arch in your chosen color,
and plant around it.
SELECTIONS >>
224 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Climbers for arches
There are climbing plants to suit every taste. For a showy display, go for
the weird and wonderful Eccremocarpus or the vivid flame nasturtium, and
for simple but colorful foliage try golden hop. Climbing roses lend a more
traditional look, and for delicious fragrance try the scented chocolate vine,
honeysuckle, or star jasmine. Many of these plants mingle together
beautifully; there is no need to confine yourself to just one.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Late Dutch Honeysuckle, Lonicera periclymenum ‘Serotina’; h22 ft (7 m) BE H9–5 2 Chilean
glory flower, Eccremocarpus scaber; h10 ft (3 m) Ad H12–10 3 Chocolate vine, Akebia quinata;
h30 ft (10 m) ABE H9–5 4 Golden hop, Humulus lupulus ‘Aureus’; h20 ft (6 m) Ae H8–1
5 Morning glory, Ipomoea purpurea; h10 ft (3 m) AD H12–1 6 Rhodochiton atrosanguineus; h10 ft
(3 m) AE H8–2 7 Flame nasturtium, Tropaeolum speciosum; h10 ft (3 m) AE H12–8 8 Star
jasmine, Trachelospermum jasminoides; h20 ft (6 m) ABD H10–9 9 Chilean potato tree, Solanum
crispum ‘Glasnevin’; h20 ft (6 m) AdE H12–1 0 Rosa ‘Compassion’; h10 ft (3 m) Ae H9–5
225
SELECTIONS >>
<<
226 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Perfumed pendants
Big and beautiful, wisteria is the queen of climbers. Some would consider growing it for its gnarled,
twining growth and graceful, green foliage alone, but then in early summer, it tops all this by producing
a truly breathtaking display of long, pendant, scented flowers. All it needs is a little annual care.
CHOOSING PLANTS
Wisteria is notorious for being slow to flower, but this is only if it is
grown on its own roots. Whereas plants grown from seed may take
over ten years to start flowering, grafted ones can bloom within three
or four years. The nursery or garden center should be able to reassure
you about this, and you can see the graft yourself at the base of the
stem, but the best way to be sure is to buy a plant in flower. The open
flowers also give you the chance to decide which color you prefer.
PLANTING AND SUPPORT
Wisterias are big, heavy climbers, so plant them only where you have
a large, sturdy support in place such as heavy-duty wires or a pergola.
Prepare the soil well before planting, digging it over and mixing in
plenty of organic matter (see pp.212–213 for planting advice). At first
you may need to tie the stems loosely to their supports, but this task
won’t be necessary for long because they begin to twine (see right).
Pruning care
Wisterias should be pruned twice a year
to encourage them to flower well.
WHEN TO PRUNE
Winter and summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Clippers
Ladder
Organic matter
Twine
SUMMER PRUNING
The best time to assess the overall
shape of your plant is after
flowering. If there are any gaps, fill these
by training new stems along the support
in that direction. Tie this new growth in
loosely to the framework using twine.
REDUCE NEW SHOOTS
Once stems are tied in, cut back
all other growth to about 12 in
(30 cm) from where it sprouts. Restricting
growth and allowing sunlight and air to
ripen the young stems helps promote
flowering the following year.
WINTER PRUNING
For best results, prune again in
late winter. First identify any long,
sappy stems that sprouted after pruning
in summer, and prune them back to about
five buds away from the main branch,
cutting just above a bud.
SPUR PRUNE
Then, shorten the shoots that were
pruned in the summer even farther,
back to two or three buds. Look carefully
for the fat, round flower buds, and avoid
cutting these off. Foliage buds, which can
be removed, are slimmer and pointed.
KEEP PLANTS IN CHECK
Wisteria is a vigorous plant, and its
stems can become thick and woody
with age. These can cause problems if they
grow where they are not wanted, so cut
stems away from gutters, windows, and
behind pipes when you are pruning.
228 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Grow scented sweet peas
The scent of sweet peas is like no other, and a vase of cut blooms filling a room with fragrance is reason
enough to grow these cottage-garden favorites. In warm areas, sow seeds in the autumn; in colder
parts sow in spring in a warm greenhouse or on a windowsill. Grow them on in an open, sunny area.
CHIP THE SEED
Sweet pea seeds have
a hard shell, and unless
water can penetrate it, the
seeds will not germinate. To
ensure the seed absorbs water,
use a sharp penknife or nail
clippers to carefully nick it
opposite the “eye” (small,
round scar) and remove a
small piece of the seed coat.
SOW SEED
In autumn, fill trays or
pots with seed soil and
sow the seeds ½ in (1 cm)
deep. Keep the seedlings in a
cool greenhouse or cold frame
until the following spring, only
providing extra heat during
severe frosts. In mid-spring,
remove the tip of the main
shoot from each seedling.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn or early spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
2–3 hours over several
months
Sweet pea seeds
Sharp penknife or nail
clippers
Deep seed trays or
root trainers
Seed soil
Well-rotted organic
matter
Obelisk or bamboo
canes
Garden twine
All-purpose liquid feed
SEEDLING CARE
If you sow sweet peas
in early spring, grow
the seedlings indoors, or in a
warm greenhouse, at 58–62°F
(14–17°C). When they reach
4–6in (10–15cm) high, remove
the tips down to the first set
of leaves. Pinching out the
tips like this encourages side
shoots to form.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
Sweet pea supports
Sweet peas climb using their twining tendrils, which cling to slim supports, such
as sticks or bamboo canes. These bushy plants reach up to 6 ft (1.8 m) high, so
make sure your support is tall enough to accommodate them.
BUYING SUPPORTS
HARDEN OFF AND PLANT OUT
Autumn-sown seedlings can be
planted out directly into the ground
in mid-spring. Spring-sown seedlings
will have tender shoots that need to be
hardened off for a few weeks by bringing
them outside by day, and inside at night.
Plant hardened seedlings out in late spring.
PLANT CARE
Enrich the soil with well-rotted
organic matter and plant one or
two seedlings close to the base of a
suitable support (see right) and tie them
in loosely. The tendrils will soon take hold
of the supports as the plants grow. Water
during dry spells, and apply a liquid feed
every two weeks from midsummer. Pick
the flowers regularly to encourage more.
TOP TIP: HOME-MADE SEED POTS
Roll folded newspaper around a glass
and tuck the top ends into it. Remove,
then flatten the tucked-in ends to form
the base. Plant seedlings and their pots
into the soil—the pots will just rot away.
Wooden or metal obelisks and tripods are
ideal for sweet peas, and make decorative
additions to flower borders or to vegetable
beds, where you can plant them alongside
runner or French beans. (Do not confuse the
pods when harvesting because sweet peas
are poisonous). You may find that young
plants struggle to take hold of smooth
materials, such as metal, or do not cover
the whole support evenly. To remedy this
problem, wind some string around the poles
and tie it horizontally across the legs of the
support to provide the plants with more grip.
Elegant additions p
Stylish pyramids look stunning when dressed
with a mix of sweet peas and runner beans.
MAKE YOUR OWN
It’s easy to make your own
sweet pea supports by setting
out bamboo canes to form
a wigwam and tying them
securely at the top. Alternatively,
grow them up pea sticks (see
p.307), or create a support with
plastic mesh wrapped around a
circle of sturdy stakes driven into
the ground, securing the trellis
with garden twine or wire. As
the plants grow, these supports
quickly disappear beneath the
flowers and foliage.
o Tunnel vision
This fragrant garden arch is made
from metal poles and wire mesh,
available from hardware stores,
fixed at the top with wire. The
sweet peas are scrambling over
it to create a tunnel of flowers.
229
230 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Striking stems
Many dogwood and willow varieties have brightly colored stems
that are a boon in the winter garden. The young growth is the most
impressive, so prune hard to encourage bright new shoots.
Willow wands
Willows (Salix) look great grown as
pollards. Let a single stem grow to
about 5 ft (1.5 m) tall, and prune so
that new growth develops at the top,
creating a head of colorful young stems.
WHEN TO START
Late winter or early spring
AT ITS BEST
Winter
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
PRUNE TO ONE OR TWO BUDS
Before new growth appears in
spring, use clippers to cut back
every stem to one or two buds. Use a
pruning saw to remove larger material.
Willow plant
Clippers
Pruning shears or saw
All-purpose granular fertilizer
AFTER PRUNING
REMOVE WEAK GROWTH
When the leaves fall in autumn,
neaten the plant by pruning out
weak and damaged stems, and remove
any shoots from the main trunk.
The shrub will look strange after
pruning but don’t panic; it will
quickly regrow. Give it an annual feed of
all-purpose granular fertilizer, worked into
the soil around the base of the plant. Use
the cut stems to support perennials in
spring and summer.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
Dramatic dogwoods
Dogwoods (Cornus species) are grown for their bare winter
stems, which can be green, red, orange, or bright yellow.
The youngest growth is the most vibrant, so prune them
almost to the ground every year to encourage new stems.
ANNUAL
PRUNING
In late winter
or early spring, prune
dogwoods back by cutting
all stems to one or two
buds above the ground.
Use clippers for the
thinner stems, and
shears or a pruning saw
for larger ones.
LEAVE AN OPEN
STRUCTURE
New stems will grow
from the top buds left behind.
If there are several buds,
remove those facing into the
center of the plant by rubbing
them off with your fingers.
This prevents the new stems
from becoming too congested,
which will weaken their
winter display.
ALTERNATIVE
APPROACH
o Bare essentials
Plant spring-flowering bulbs beneath
your dogwoods and willows to give
an extra splash of color.
Instead of pruning
your dogwoods entirely
to the ground, you can
prune out every third
stem. The plant will look
less scalped through the
summer, although the
winter show will not be
as dramatic as a result.
231
232 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Weave a living willow screen
Slimmer than a hedge and just as easy to create, willow screens are ideal for partitioning small gardens
or as boundaries in rural settings where you want a barrier that mirrors the natural landscape beyond.
Once established, they also make good windbreaks for a vegetable plot or flower garden.
WHEN TO START
Winter, when willow is dormant
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
4–5 hours over a few months
YOU WILL NEED
Willow setts
Well-rotted organic matter,
such as manure
Spade
Garden tarred twine
Rubber plant ties
TOP TIP: BUYING AND
CARING FOR WILLOW
GROW OR BUY
WILLOW
The most common
willow for weaving is Salix
alba, which has colorful stems
in winter. Buy your cuttings or
“setts” in winter and plant as
soon as possible. Do not plant
near buildings or drainage pipes,
because the roots are invasive.
PLANT SETTS
Dig plenty of organic
matter into the soil
and remove weeds. Push a
spade into the soil 8 in (20 cm)
deep, insert a willow sett into
the slit and firm in. Space setts
8 in (20 cm) apart. Water well.
Wait until new growth appears
before weaving.
WEAVE THE WILLOW
Crisscross the stems over
and under one another to
form a rigid diamond-shaped
structure. Tie stems where they
cross with twine, and use rubber
plant ties to secure the top of
the screen. This allows some
movement and prevents stems
from snapping in the wind.
The easiest way to buy
willow cuttings is from a
specialist willow nursery—
most now have online
and mail-order shops. The
cuttings are harvested when
dormant in winter, and will
only be available at this time.
They are normally 10–12 in
(20–30 cm) long and take a
season to grow to a suitable
length for weaving. Rods for
tunnels are longer. Keep the
growing area free of weeds
(see p.76 to lay a weedsuppressing membrane)
and water the cuttings well
after planting, and until they
are fully established.
Make a tunnel
Natural and inexpensive, this willow
tunnel takes no longer to make than a
screen, and can be used for children’s
play areas or in a cottage or informal
design. To create a living tunnel, buy
longer “rods” instead of setts or cuttings.
MARK OUT THE SITE
Prepare the site and soil as for
screens (see opposite). Measure
the length of the tunnel and calculate the
number of rods you will need: they are
planted in pairs 12 in (30 cm) apart, or
closer if you want a dense effect. You will
also need a few spares. When the rods
arrive, plant as for setts (see opposite),
but in slits that are 12 in (30 cm) deep.
FORM THE ARCH
Plant rods in matching pairs on
either side of your marked-out
tunnel. Bend each pair over to form an
arch and twist them together. Secure
with rubber plant ties. Plant some rods
between the other stems and weave
them across the structure to help
strengthen it. Tie these rods on either
side of the arch stems, as shown above.
FINAL TOUCHES
Water well and apply a mulch each
spring. Keep the arch well watered
for the first year and weed regularly.
TOP TIP: PRUNING AND AFTERCARE
To top up moisture levels, consider
installing a leaky hose beside the arch
(see pp.406–407), which can be attached
to an automatic timer. Remove any dead
plants as you see them and replant with
fresh ones. Do not trim your hedge or
arch until the end of the first year when
the leaves have dropped. Once well
established, willow structures will
produce long shoots, which you can
cut back and chip for use as a mulch
or as fuel for a wood burner. Alternatively,
you can plant these “cuttings” to make
more willow structures.
234 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Plant a wall of berries
Wall shrubs, such as firethorn, are easy to grow and provide a rich tapestry of evergreen foliage, spring
flowers, and vibrant autumn berries that add texture and color to the garden. On a boundary, their sharp
thorns also deter intruders, and the fruits provide a feast for hungry birds.
WHEN TO START
Autumn
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Firethorn, Pyracantha
Well-rotted organic matter,
such as manure
Granular shrub fertilizer
Coated wire and vine eyes
Garden twine
Clippers
PLANT AND TIE STEMS IN
PREPARE THE GROUND
Plant your firethorn about 20 in
(50 cm) from the wall or fence,
and dig a bucketful of organic matter and
some general-purpose fertilizer into the
soil within the planting area. Do not add
extra organic matter to the planting hole.
Fix horizontal wires across the
wall or fence (see pp.212–213).
Dig a planting hole twice the width and
as deep as the plant pot. Place the
firethorn in the hole and lay a stake across
the top to check that the plant will be at
the same depth as it is in its pot once
planted. Remove from its pot, and plant.
Backfill with excavated soil and firm in
with the ball of your foot. Remove stems
from the supporting canes supplied with
the plant, and tie to the wires with twine.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
Wall shrub options
For flower rather than berries, try one of these beautiful wall shrubs. Each has its
individual charms: both the Californian lilac and the silk-tassel bush are evergreen,
while the flowering quince and flannel bush have bright, colorful blooms.
MAKING A CHOICE
TRIM STEMS
With clean, sharp clippers, prune
wayward stems that are growing
away from the wall or fence. Cut them
back to the main stem or a bud close
to a stem that is growing along the
fence. Shorten other side shoots to
encourage bushier growth.
Heralding spring, the bare branches of
the flowering quince, Chaenomeles, are
laced with bright pink or red flowers, and
are followed by the blue pompoms of
Californian lilacs, Ceanothus, which open
at the end of the season. The flannel
bush, Fremontodendron, has large waxy
yellow flowers that appear from late
spring to early autumn, and to close the
year, the silk-tassel bush, Garrya, displays
its long cream catkins while the rest
of the garden sleeps.
PLANTING SHRUBS
WATER AND MULCH
Water the plant well, and apply
a thick mulch of well-rotted organic
matter, keeping it clear of the stems.
Water regularly for a year or two, until
the plant is well established. Only water
during prolonged dry spells thereafter.
PRUNING PYRACANTHA
In spring, when flower buds appear,
cut back outward-growing stems,
or those growing towards the fence, and
shorten others to keep the plant compact,
making sure that you retain as many buds
as possible. Wear heavy-duty gardening
gloves to protect yourself from the thorns.
In late summer, cut the stems back to
within a few buds of the berries so that
the fruits are more visible.
Plant the Californian lilac and flannel
bush in a sunny spot. The silk-tassel bush
and quince will grow well in partial
shade or full sun. None of these plants,
apart from the quince, tolerate hard
frosts so select a sheltered area, and
follow the same planting method as
for firethorn (see left). You can train
the plants onto a trellis instead of wires,
if you prefer, but make sure that it is
fixed securely to the wall or fence.
AFTERCARE
Although these shrubs tolerate very
dry conditions, water them frequently for
the first year until they are established.
Trim back the quince and lilac annually
after flowering in early summer. Prune
the silk-tassel and flannel bushes in
mid-spring. Prune out wayward stems
that are growing away from their
supports, and trim other stems to create
a neat framework. Tie in long stems to
the wires or trellis. The plants will also
benefit from an application of granular
shrub fertilizer in early spring.
1 Flowering quince, Chaenomeles x
superba; H5 ft (1.5 m) s6 ft (1.8 m)
2 Californian lilac, Ceanothus ‘Concha’;
E5–10 ft (1.5–3 m) 3 Silk-tassel bush,
Garrya elliptica; E12 ft (4 m) 4 Flannel
bush, Fremontodendron californicum;
H20 ft (6 m) s12 ft (4 m)
235
SELECTIONS >>
236 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Decorative catkins
Whether soft and furry or long and dangling, catkins never fail to delight.
Those of the silver birch are perhaps the most familiar, and add a strong,
vertical accent hanging from the bare, twiggy branches. But there are also
many other types of catkins, equally attractive, that are often overlooked.
They add a tactile and surprising dimension to the spring garden, at a time
of year when positive change is most welcome.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Pussy willow, Salix hastata ‘Wehrhahnii’; E4 ft (1.2 m) Ae H8–5
2 Alnus incana; h70 ft (20 m)
s30 ft (10 m) Ae H6–1 3 Betula nana; h24 in (60 cm) s4 ft (1.2 m) ABdE H5–1
4 Itea ilicifolia; E10 ft (3 m) AdE H9–7 5 Salix lanata; h3 ft (1 m) s5 ft (1.5 m) Ae H5–1
6 Itea virginica; h6 ft (2 m) s5 ft (1.5 m) AdE H10–7
7 Betula papyrifera; h70 ft (20 m)
s30 ft (10 m) ABdE H7–1 8 Salix caprea ‘Kilmarnock’; h5 ft (1.5 m) s6 ft (2 m) Ae H8–6
9 Salix reticulata; h3 in (8 cm) s12 in (30 cm) Ae H6–1 0 Salix hastata; E3 ft (1 m) Ae H8–5
237
SELECTIONS >>
<<
238 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Cover up for winter
Cold, dark winter days can be depressing, but with a few well-chosen climbers to dress up your screens,
boundaries, and bare-stemmed trees, this can be an exciting and beautiful season. Bright, variegated
foliage, sunny yellow flowers, and sweetly scented blooms are among the delights in store.
Ivy arch
Often overlooked or dismissed as too
common, ivy comes into its own in
winter, with beautiful leaf shapes and
bright colors. Grow it over an arch for
a spectacular foliage effect.
WHEN TO START
Autumn
AT ITS BEST
All year, especially winter
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 day to make arch; 1 day to plant
YOU WILL NEED
Garden arch (kits are available)
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Garden twine
Clippers
Ivy plants, good choices include:
Hedera helix ‘Cavendishii’,
‘Glacier’, ‘Oro di Bogliasco’, and
Hedera colchica
ERECT AN ARCH
When bold foliage is at a premium,
ivy has plenty to offer, with plain
or variegated, and large or small leaves.
Select a tall cultivar of Hedera helix or
the large-leaved Hedera colchica for an
arch. Either buy a preassembled arch, or
make one from a kit (see pp.222–223 for
instructions) and erect it close to a screen,
over a bench seat, or to frame a view.
PLANT THE IVY
Select an ivy with long stems, and
check the label to make sure that
it will grow large enough to cover the
arch. Enrich the soil around the arch with
organic matter, and plant an ivy about 12
in (30 cm) away from each side. You can
also plant a few 12 in (30 cm) from the
fence or wall. Plant the ivies at the same
depth they were in their original pots.
a Winter greens
This beautiful arch, covered with variegated
ivy and flanked by evergreen Euonymus and bay
laurel, is a show-stopping winter focal point.
AFTERCARE
Use garden twine to tie the stems
to the arch; they can be removed
once the stems have taken hold. Water
the plants frequently and trim any
wayward stems in spring and summer.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
Seasonal gold
The winter jasmine, Jasminum nudiflorum, is really a wall
shrub, but its long, lax stems are easily trained over trellis or
on wires to cover screens and fences. Masses of starry golden
yellow flowers appear on bare stems in late winter and early
spring, but unlike summer jasmine, they are unscented.
PLANTING JASMINE
Choose a spot that will be in
full sun or partial shade in the
winter to encourage the best
blooms. Note that areas that
are in sun in summer may be
shaded later in the year, so
check your aspect carefully
(see p.15). In autumn, dig
well-rotted organic matter,
such as manure or homemade
garden compost, into the soil
before you start, and plant
the jasmine as for wall shrubs
(see pp.234–235).
a p Frosted flowers
Winter jasmine’s tough little
flowers continue to bloom even
when dusted with frost. During dry
spells, keep the plant well watered
until established, and feed with a
shrub fertilizer each spring.
Evergreen clematis
Exquisite blooms set amid evergreen foliage are the star
qualities of winter-flowering clematis. Plant them in a
sheltered site because they don’t tolerate low temperatures.
PLANTING TIPS
a Freckled friends
The flowers of Clematis cirrhosa
var. purpurascens ‘Freckles’ appear
throughout the winter.
Winter delights p
Stunningly beautiful, the flowers of
Clematis armandii emit a delicious
scent, and appear for many weeks
from late winter to early spring.
Clematis armandii has sweetly
scented white or pink flowers
and long, slim, dark green
leaves. In some areas it may
stay quite compact, but when
fully established and in a
suitable location, it can grow
through a large tree. Clematis
cirrhosa, with its freckled,
cup-shaped flowers, can be
equally vigorous in ideal
conditions. Although these
clematis are less likely to fall
prey to clematis wilt, it is still
worth planting them deeply in
well-drained soil, just in case
the disease strikes (see p.217).
AFTERCARE
Water well during dry spells for
the first year until the plants
are established, and clip untidy
growth lightly after flowering.
The lower leaves of Clematis
armandii may turn brown and
fall, which is a characteristic of
this plant; use another climber
or shrub to disguise the stems.
239
240 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Elegant standards
Standard trees make a bold statement in the garden but can be
expensive to buy, but with a little patience and the right care you
can create your own, as long as the plant has a strong lead shoot.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO START
Anytime
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
Initial pruning, 30 minutes
A variegated holly, such as
Ilex x altaclerensis ‘Golden King’
used here
Large container
A stake
Twine
Clippers
ASSESS
THE PLANT
Look at
the plant from
all angles before
pruning. Decide
how long you
want the clean
stem to be and
what growth you
are going to leave
to make up the
lollipop top.
TIE IN AND SHAPE
Shorten the growth left
at the top of the plant
slightly to encourage it to bush
out and form a rounded head.
Push a stake into the soil
to support the main stem,
which will be quite weak at
this early stage; tie securely
in several places. Trim the
head to shape each year.
REMOVE SIDE SHOOTS
Prune the lowest side shoots from
the main stem, but don’t remove
all of them at once because they help pull
sap up the plant. Once the plant has a
round head, you can cut them all off.
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
Planting options
Almost any plant can be grown as a standard, and if you have
the time it is worth experimenting to see which work best.
GLOBES OF FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE
Roses are traditionally trained as standards, and are particularly
effective grown in this formal way with less traditional mixed
cottage-style planting beneath them. The same is true of
wisterias. Other commonly grown standard lollipop trees include
boxwood and bay, often used for topiary, and decorative
evergreens, such as rosemary, Euonymus fortunei, and Photinia.
You can also create interesting foliage and structural effects with
large deciduous trees, such as acers and oaks, trimmed into
standards, as long as you prune them regularly.
1 Rosmarinus officinalis has
silvery growth and looks good
rising above a planting of cool
whites and purples.
2 Euonymus fortunei provides
brightly colored variegated
foliage all year round, even in
shady corners.
3 Photinia x fraseri ‘Red Robin’
is green all year but produces a
flush of bronze-red new foliage
every spring.
o Holly head
Variegated holly, shaped into a standard tree,
brings strong color, structure and style to any
mixed planting or group of containers.
241
242 STRUCTURAL FEATURES
>>
Choosing conifers
Conifers comprise a wide group of mostly evergreen trees and shrubs that provide welcome color and
structure all year round. Although some have a bad name, growing into ungainly monsters, many make
elegant additions to small gardens, especially when combined with other woody plants and perennials.
SIZE MATTERS
The following plants are examples of the
different types of conifer you may see
in garden centers and catalogs. Check
their labels carefully to make sure you buy
a conifer that will suit your plot. “Slowgrowing” conifers are not necessarily
small, they simply grow slowly, putting
on 6–12 in (15–30 cm) of growth per year.
“Dwarf” types remain compact, and grow
between 1–6 in (2–15 cm) per year, while
“Miniatures” are tiny and will only grow
to about 10 in (25 cm) after ten years and,
ultimately, no more than 3 ft (90 cm).
1 The blue Colorado spruce, Picea
pungens ‘Koster’, is a slow-growing conifer
that reaches a height of 8 ft (2 m) and width
of 4 ft (1.2 m) but may, after many years,
grow even larger. 2 This Hinoki cypress,
Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Opaal’, is a dwarf
conifer reaching 3 ft (1 m) high and 30 in
(75 cm) wide when mature. 3 The dwarf
mountain pine, Pinus aristata ‘Sherwood
Compact’, with its decorative candlelike
cones, is tiny and reaches just 24 in (60 cm)
when mature.
Contemporary conifers p
This elegant small garden mixes wellbehaved conifers, including a blue-leaved
weeping Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca Pendula’
(left), Chamaecyparis obtusa trained into a
tiny lollipop (bottom left), and a pretty pine
(right), together with grasses and bamboos
to create a stylish modern design.
Creative effects
Conifers are excellent design tools, offering a wealth of colors and shapes. You can
use them en masse for a mosaic effect, choose just one striking example for a focal
point in a border or lawn, or plant tiny types in pots and containers.
DESIGN OPTIONS
For year-round color, you can’t do much
better than the blue spruce, Picea pungens,
which comes in all shapes and sizes and
makes a great companion for purple-leaved
shrubs, such as the smoke bush, Cotinus
‘Grace’. Alternatively, match them up with
contrasting golden conifers, such as the
spreading Juniperus x pfitzeriana Gold
Sovereign or the rounded Chamaecyparis
lawsoniana ‘Golden Pot’. To strike a pose,
look for pencil-thin plants that provide
accents and can be used as focal points, or
to line a path. The Italian cypress, Cupressus
sempervirens, is a classic example, but
junipers are easier plants for cooler climates.
Try J. communis ‘Compressa’ or ‘Sentinel’,
which have a similar rocketlike form.
a Textured gold
The vivid golden foliage of Abies nordmanniana
‘Golden Spreader’ makes a striking statement
plant; the foliage is even brighter in winter.
a On parade
Use cone-shaped conifers, such as Thuja
occidentalis ‘Smaragd’ to form a screen of
sentrylike specimens.
Purple candles p
The unusual purple cones of the slow-growing
Korean fir, Abies koreana, are spectacular; buy
one with cones to ensure that it will perform.
Options for small gardens
Conifers are quite easy-going and adapt to a range of conditions, but most thrive
in a sunny site in moist soil that drains freely, although junipers will cope with drier
conditions. Check labels for width as well as height, as some need space to spread.
These conifers are perfect for small areas:
Abies balsamea ‘Nana’
Cephalotaxus harringtonii ‘Fastigiata’
Juniperus communis ‘Compressa’
Juniperus scopulorum ‘Blue Arrow’
Pinus heldreichii ‘Smidtii’
Tsuga canadensis ‘Cole’s Prostrate’
1 Lawson cypress, Chamaecyparis
lawsoniana ‘Minima Aurea’; H18 in (45 cm)
s12 in (30 cm) 2 Juniper, Juniperus
procumbens ‘Nana’; H12 in (30 cm)
s4 ft (1.2 m) 3 Japanese cedar,
Cryptomeria japonica ‘Nana’; E2ft (60 cm)
4 White cedar, Thuja occidentalis
‘Caespitosa’; H12 in (30 cm) s16 in (40 cm)
<<
STRUCTURAL FEATURES
All-season color
By planting evergreen conifers with long-lasting grasses, and then
throwing in a smattering of perennials, you can have a garden that
looks good all year round, with a few highlights in summer.
PREPARE THE SITE
WHEN TO START
Autumn
In the autumn before planting,
thoroughly remove all weeds from
the border. Dig it over deeply and then
incorporate plenty of organic matter, such
as well-rotted manure or garden compost.
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
1–2 days
SET OUT THE PLANTING PATTERN
YOU WILL NEED
Spade and fork
Well-rotted organic matter
1. Abies concolor ‘Wintergold’
2. Pinus heldreichii ‘Smidtii’
3. Erica carnea f. aureifolia
‘Foxhollow’
4. Pennisetum alopecuroides
‘Little Bunny’
5. Imperata cylindrica ‘Rubra’
6. Pinus mugo ‘Ophir’
7. Stipa gigantea
8. Kniphofia ‘Percy’s Pride’
Buy the plants in spring and set
them out before planting them. The
dwarf conifers provide the backbone, with
a ribbon of Imperata and Erica running
between them. Use the Stipa as an accent
plant, and fill gaps with the Pennisetum.
PLANT AND FEED
Plant the conifers and Erica first,
then add the grasses and Kniphofia.
Water the plants in well. Keep them
watered throughout their first full growing
season, and feed them each spring with
an all-purpose granular fertilizer.
7
8
6
1
5
2
4
3
245
Fruit and
Vegetables
Whether you have a large kitchen garden or a tiny courtyard,
you can grow a range of crops for the kitchen. The step-bystep projects in this chapter are both easy and fun, and
include leafy herbs in hanging baskets, raised beds filled
with root vegetables, and pots of delicious strawberries and
other fruits. Sow and plant regularly, and you will have
home-grown crops to eat throughout the year. Keep your
plants well watered and fed to fend off pests and diseases.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Grow a row of beans
Climbing French and runner beans are among the most productive vegetable plants in the garden, but
you do have to treat them well to get the best crops. They are easy to care for once planted out and
established, but the key to success is to nourish the soil well before planting time.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours over a few months
YOU WILL NEED
Bean seeds
Coir pots
Seed soil
Garden stakes
String
Well-rotted garden compost
or manure
SOW SEEDS IN POTS
French and runner beans are
sensitive to frost, so sow them
inside, one to each pot. Set the pots on
a tray in a warm, sunny spot, and water
the seedlings regularly; do not let them
dry out. Plant them outdoors once all
risk of frost has passed.
PREPARE YOUR TRENCH
Dig out a trench to at least one
spade’s depth and fill the base
with a deep layer of compost or manure.
This will give your beans the energy
they need. Then, use long garden stakes
to create a sturdy climbing frame to
support them all summer.
TOP TIP: BLAST OFF APHIDS
Sap-sucking aphids cause a lot of damage
to plants, and they love tender bean tips.
A good way to tackle them that doesn’t
require chemicals is to blast them off with
a jet of water. A hand mister is also useful
during hot weather because a fine spray
on the flowers can improve pollination.
TIE IN STEMS
Plant one seedling at the base of
each stake and tie the stem to it,
until it takes hold by itself. You can also
sow bean seeds directly into the soil in late
spring, after the frosts. If you do, plant two
seeds per stake in case one fails to grow. If
both come up, weed out the weaker one.
WATER AND WAIT
Beans are thirsty, so you need
to water them often, especially
when they start flowering. If the plants
are too dry, the blooms will drop off and
you will lose the crop. Harvest the pods
when they are young and tender, before
you can see the beans swelling inside.
249
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Pot up a productive patio
Awash with colorful blooms and brimming with delicious crops, this tiny patio is both pretty and
productive. You can either grow vegetables and flowers from seed, or buy a range of young plug
plants from the garden center if space and time is limited.
SOW SEEDS
WHEN TO START
Early spring
AT ITS BEST
Summer to early autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours to sow; 1 day to plant up
YOU WILL NEED
Selection of large pots and
hanging baskets
Broken clay pot pieces
Soil-based potting mix
Slow-release fertilizer granules
Tomato fertilizer
1. Tomato ‘Tumbling Tom’
2. Tomato ‘Gardener’s Delight’ and
‘Costoluto Fiorentino’
3. Asparagus pea
4. Herbs
5. Pot marigolds, Calendula
6. Summer squash ‘Sunburst’ hybrid
1
6
Either buy plants in late spring or
sow seed earlier. If you only need
one or two tomato plants, it may be easier
to buy young plants. Sow chard seed
directly into pots in late spring (see p.260).
The asparagus pea is a gourmet vegetable
that’s easy to grow—simply sow the seed
indoors in late spring and, as the weather
warms up, harden off the seedlings by
placing them outside during the day. To
grow the squash, follow the sowing and
planting methods for zucchinis (see p.276),
and sow some marigolds to brighten up
the display (see pp.108–111).
TOP TIP: BAGS OF FUN
Growing crops in large bags is a popular
idea for small patio gardens. You can
either buy specialized products in an
assortment of colors, or use strong
recycling bags. Large plants, such as
potatoes and zucchinis, that require
lots of space and soil, are ideal for
bags, which are generally cheaper
than containers of the same size.
PLANT AFTER FROSTS
When all danger of frost has passed,
plant up the seedlings and young
plants in large containers of soil-based
potting mix (see pp.272–273 for tomatoes
in growbags). Tumbling tomatoes are
best planted in large baskets (see pp.312);
partner them up with herbs or trailing
bedding plants, such as ground ivy. Also
consider buying or making small raised
beds (see pp.254–255), which are perfect
for packing lots of vegetables into tight
spaces. When planting the peas, add
twiggy sticks to support them (see p.275).
2
WATER DAILY
5
3
4
Crops in pots must be watered
every day in summer, and the
fruiting and podded vegetables benefit
from a weekly feed with tomato fertilizer
to encourage a bumper harvest. Pick the
crops as soon as they ripen.
a Climbing crops
Trailing zucchinis, such as ‘Tromboncino’,
are decorative plants with large leaves,
sunny yellow flowers, and cream-colored
fruits. Use vine eyes to fix coated wires up
your wall or fence, and tie in the stems to
make a screen of delicious vegetables.
251
252 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Grow a crop of potatoes
Potatoes are a staple of kitchen gardens and taste delicious when freshly dug up from the soil. Grow
your crops in an open, sunny site in well-drained soil, and plant “earlies” one month before the last
frosts are predicted, and “second earlies” and “maincrops” slightly later at the end of spring.
WHEN TO START
Late winter
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours over a few months
YOU WILL NEED
Seed potatoes
Egg crates
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as compost or manure
String
Spade
Straw or other dry mulch
ADD MORE SOIL
CHIT SEED POTATOES
In late winter, buy your seed
potatoes and place them in egg
crates in a cool, light, frost-free place to
“chit” or sprout. They will start growing
while it is still too cold to plant them out.
PLANTING DEPTH AND DISTANCE
Dig a trench to a spade’s depth,
and fill the bottom with loose soil
or compost. Plant “first earlies” and
“second earlies” 12 in (30 cm) apart, in
rows 20 in (50 cm) apart, and “maincrops”
16 in (40 cm) apart, in rows 30 in (75 cm)
apart. Cover them with soil.
As potato plants grow, their stems
should be regularly covered with
soil or “earthed up.” In the early days, this
protects the tubers from frost. Later on,
it encourages the growth of extra tubers,
leading to a larger crop. Earthing up also
prevents
the tubers
from being
exposed to
light, which
makes them
turn green
and inedible.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Bags of spuds
If you don’t have an allotment or space in your garden for a vegetable patch,
you can grow potatoes in containers on your patio. Large pots work well, but
sacks are particularly good, as you can start with them rolled down, and unroll
the sides as you earth the potatoes up. You can enjoy a surprisingly good crop
by growing in this way, as long as you remember to water regularly.
PROTECT PLANTS
When seed potatoes are first
planted out, earthing up may not
provide enough protection from frost. In
colder regions, add a layer of straw to
prevent tubers from freezing.
WHEN TO START
Late winter
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Seed potatoes
Several sacks or large pots
Soil-based compost
Watering can
HARVESTING
When the flowers begin to open,
your potatoes are ready to harvest.
Use a fork to dig them up from below,
accessing them from the side of the
mound, to avoid damaging them.
TOP TIP: STORING POTATOES
PLANT POTATOES
Maincrop potatoes can be stored in
paper or hessian sacks. After harvesting,
brush off the soil and dry in the sun for
a few hours. Pack away only the perfect
tubers and check them regularly.
Make sure your container has
adequate drainage holes, then
put 20cm (8 in) of compost in the base.
Place one or two “chitted” seed potatoes
(see Step 1, left) per pot or sack on
top of the compost. Cover them with
about 10cm (4 in) of compost, and
water in well.
KEEP EARTHING UP
As the potatoes grow, unroll
your sack to make the sides
higher. Keep covering the new growth
with compost; don’t worry, the shoots
will soon find their way through the soil.
When you reach the top, and can earth
up no more, just let the plants grow.
Water regularly. New potatoes can be
harvested any time after flowering.
253
254 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Build a timber raised bed
If you have a heavy clay soil, you may find it easier to grow your vegetables in raised beds, which offer
many advantages. Not only does the soil drain freely, making them ideal for root crops, but it also
warms up more quickly in spring, allowing you to sow and plant sooner, and enjoy earlier harvests.
<<
WHEN TO START
Winter
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 day
YOU WILL NEED
Spade
Heavy-duty gloves
8 lumber cut to size required
– lumber used here are: 2 x 8ft
(2m) and 2 x 4ft (1.2m)
Builder’s spirit level
Tape measure
Rubber mallet
Screwdriver
Long heavy-duty coach screws
Broken pots
Topsoil or soil-based compost
SECURE BASE
TIMBERS
Use a rubber mallet
to adjust the position of the
lumbers so they butt up and
align neatly at the corners.
Drill two holes on one side
of each corner, and secure
the joint using long,
heavy-duty coach screws.
Check that all lumbers are
firmly joined together.
SOW SEEDS OR PLANT PLUGS
For added drainage, put a layer
of broken pots or builder’s
rubble in the base, then fill with garden
topsoil or soil-based compost. Water
it well and leave to settle for a few
days, after which you can sow seeds
or plant directly.
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
DIG OUT STRIPS OF TURF
Mark out lines on the ground
where the lumber will rest,
then use a sharp spade to cut out the
outline of your bed, all the way around.
If positioning the bed on an area of
lawn, ease the spade between turf
and soil, and lift off the grass, which
you can then use elsewhere in the
garden (see p.29).
LAY LUMBER IN POSITION
Set the first layer of lumber in
position. Remove or add soil
until they are level. Check the levels
along and diagonally across the lumber
with a builder’s spirit level. Ensure that
the base is square by checking that the
diagonals are equal in length. For a
perfect square or rectangle, have the
lumber pre-cut at a timber yard.
ARRANGE SECOND
LAYER
The next layer of
timbers simply sit on top of
the first. Arrange the pieces
so that the joints at the four
corners are staggered, as
shown, to give the structure
extra strength and stability.
Check all levels before
screwing the lumber in
place, as shown in Step 3.
o Convenience food
Position a raised bed
near your patio and you
can have fresh lettuce
leaves and herbs close
to the kitchen and
barbecue area.
255
256 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Roots for raised beds
Root vegetables, such as carrots and beets, commonly produce misshapen roots if they are grown
in stony garden soil. Since these, and most other root crops, also prefer a free-draining soil, they are
ideal for growing in raised beds, where their tasty, succulent roots can develop straight and true.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer, autumn, and winter
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Seed for root vegetables,
such as carrots, radishes,
beets, and celeriac.
Beets
Reliable and easy to grow, beets come in yellow, white, and striped
varieties, as well as the traditional blood-red. Sow a new batch every few
weeks and harvest the plump, sweet, earthy roots as you need them.
HARVESTING
SOWING
Sow seeds 3⁄4 in (1.5 cm) deep in
rows, directly in the soil, every
two weeks from late spring. Thin the
seedlings shortly after germination so
plants are 6 in (15 cm) apart.
Beets are sweetest and
most succulent when
young, and can be harvested
when they reach the size of
a golf ball. Leave some in the
ground to grow larger, where
they will last into winter. Pull
them as required, although they
will eventually become tougher
and less tasty. When you harvest
beets, cut leaves bleed and
stain; instead, simply twist off
the leafy tops.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Celeriac
The edible part of celeriac is actually the
swollen base of the stem, not the root.
Since this develops below soil level, it is
commonly regarded as a root vegetable.
Carrots
Carrots are the mainstay of the kitchen garden, but these root crops need
free-draining soil to do well. They are also prone to a troublesome pest,
carrot fly larvae, which you need to guard against.
SOWING IN DRILLS
Sow seeds 3⁄4 in (1.5 cm) deep
directly into the soil from mid-spring.
As they grow you can thin them out and
eat as baby carrots, leaving the others in
the ground to mature. Try not to bruise their
leaves when pulling them out because the
smell attracts carrot fly (see Top Tip, below).
HARVESTING
Carrots are ready to harvest from
midsummer. On sandy soils, you
can simply pull them out of the ground,
but on heavier soils use a fork, taking care
not to damage the roots. Harvest young
carrots to use immediately. Older ones
can be stored in a cool place over winter.
TOP TIP: PROTECTIVE COVERING
The carrot fly locates carrots by scent,
and then lays eggs nearby. As these
hatch, the larvae burrow into the necks
of the roots, at the base of the foliage,
often making the carrots inedible. To
prevent this, cover the crop with a light,
transparent mesh, such as garden fleece,
dug into the soil at the bottom, or
surround your crop with a solid barrier
30 in (75 cm) high, because the adults
can only fly close to the ground.
SOWING AND PLANTING
In early spring, sow seed in
modules in a greenhouse or cold
frame. Germination can be slow, and the
plants need a long season to mature fully.
Pot them on as they grow. When they are
about 3 in (7 cm) tall, harden them off
outside (see p.109). Then plant them out
into well-drained soil, at a distance of
about 6 in (15 cm) apart.
HARVESTING
Celeriac can be harvested from late
summer and throughout winter. As
they do not store well once dug up, leave
them in the soil until you need them. Cold
weather improves the flavor of celeriac
but can damage the plants. A mulch of
straw applied before the first frosts will
prevent this and keep your crop in good
condition until you harvest it.
257
SELECTIONS >>
258 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Raised bed options
Elevating your crops in raised beds solves many problems. You can fill them
with good-quality topsoil, free from weeds and stones, or use them for
crops such as blueberries that like specific conditions—in this case, acid soil.
They are also easier to tend, and can save your back from damage. Make
your own or buy a kit, and choose beds made from natural lumber or woven
willow, or lightweight man-made materials that last for many years.
1 Use treated wooden planks, pushed halfway into the soil, for quick and effective temporary beds.
2 Low beds are easy to make and ideal for leafy crops (see pp.254–255).
3 For permanent raised
beds, build them from bricks, leaving small gaps in the bottom two courses to provide good drainage.
4 Raised bed kits are easy to assemble, and some have integral mesh-covered canopies to deter
pests. 5 Raised beds made from woven willow hurdles look great in cottage gardens, but are not
very durable and need to be replaced every few years. 6 If you buy a wooden raised bed kit, make
sure it has the FSC logo, indicating that the lumber is from a renewable source.
7 When making tall
beds, screw the layers together, rather than resting them on top of one another (see pp.254–255).
8 Dual-purpose beds-cum-seats allow you to tend your crops wiwthout bending or kneeling. Use thick
lumber for the bed, and attach the wider seating edge along the top with long coach bolts.
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
259
SELECTIONS >>
<<
260 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Plant up productive pots
Although many vegetables need space to produce a worthwhile crop in a pot, there are plenty that can
be grown successfully in more cramped conditions. Grow a container planted with vegetables outside
your back door, and you can grab a handful whenever you need them.
Rainbow chard
Harvest these as colorful baby leaves,
little and often, and use them in
summer salads or stir–fries.
WHEN TO PLANT
Spring to early summer
AT ITS BEST
Summer to autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
Small chard plants
Large, wide container
Broken clay pot pieces
Soil-based potting mix
Watering can
PREPARE CONTAINER
Make sure the container has
adequate drainage holes and
then cover the base with clay pot pieces.
Top up the container with soil.
TEASE OUT ROOTS
Water small plants of rainbow or
ruby chard. Tip them from their
pots, and carefully tease out the roots.
This helps them establish quickly.
PLANT AND FIRM IN
Plant the chard fairly close together
for a good display. Firm in and
water well. Keep well watered and cut
back flowering stems to prolong the crop.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Radishes
Radishes are great crops for containers.
They are the fastest germinating and
maturing vegetable of all, grow almost
anywhere, and their peppery taste gives
salads a real kick.
WHEN TO PLANT
Spring to summer
AT ITS BEST
Late spring to early autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
Radish seed
Low, wide pot
Broken clay pot pieces
Soil-based potting mix
Watering can with fine rose
PREPARE AND SOW
TOP TIP: BABY BEANS FOR CONTAINERS
Cover the base of the pot with
broken pot pieces. Fill the container
with soil and firm the top lightly. Sow seed
on the surface and cover with ½ in (1 cm)
of soil. Water with a fine rose.
‘Hestia’ is one of the smallest runner beans.
Being compact and with beautiful flowers,
it is well suited to growing in pots. Dwarf
runner beans do not climb and need minimal
support — just a few short stakes to hold
them up in windy weather. Prepare the pot
as for radishes. Grow one plant per pot, and
water them frequently. Pick regularly once the
beans start appearing to prolong the harvest.
THIN OUT
As seedlings germinate and grow,
thin them out, leaving the others
to mature fully. You can eat the removed
seedlings as an extra early salad crop.
HARVEST
Water your pot regularly.
Radishes are usually ready
about five weeks after sowing. Do
not allow them to grow for longer
than this because their taste
becomes hotter and unpleasant,
and they lose their crunch. To
harvest, simply pull them up when
ready. They store well in the
refrigerator for a few days.
261
262 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Enjoy some easy greens
There are fresh greens to be enjoyed from the garden all year round, providing a wonderful source of
vitamins when there is not much else available. These are useful crops for filling gaps in the vegetable
year because they mature when others are either just starting to grow, or have finished for the season.
Spring cabbage
TOP TIP: REPEAT CROPPING
Spring cabbage is ready in late spring, earlier if grown as spring greens, when other
crops are just getting going. Give it a sheltered position to help it survive the winter.
To harvest a succession of spring
greens, start cutting in early spring,
before the plants form hearts, cutting
away the entire leafy part but leaving
the stalk. Cut a cross in the top of the
leftover stalks. This encourages the
plant to sprout again, and produce
a second flush of leaves, which you
can then harvest. Do this to alternate
plants in the row, leaving the others
to form cabbages with rounded hearts.
WHEN TO START
Late summer
AT ITS BEST
Spring
PLANT OUT
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes sowing; 1 hour planting
YOU WILL NEED
Spring cabbage seed
Seed soil
Pot
Modular seed trays
Dibber or garden trowel
SOW IN MODULAR TRAY
You can either sow seed directly
in the soil and thin the plants later,
or sow in pots and transplant into modules,
planting the seedlings out once they have
five leaves each. Water the soil well first.
Position plants 12 in (30 cm) apart
for smaller spring greens; 18 in
(45 cm) apart if you want fully-hearted
cabbages. Do not add fertilizer—it
encourages soft leafy growth, and your
cabbages need to be tough to withstand
the winter. In late autumn, mound up the
soil around the stems to protect the plants
during bad weather. Spring greens can be
harvested as soon as they are big enough
to eat, while fully-hearted cabbages will
be ready during the last month of spring.
<<
Spinach
If you sow spinach every few weeks in
spring and early autumn, and protect it
over winter, you can harvest the tender
leaves all year.
WHEN TO START
Spring or early autumn
AT ITS BEST
Summer
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
SOW IN DRILLS
Stretch out your string
and use a trowel to make
a shallow drill. Sow the seeds
into it at 1 in (2.5 cm) intervals.
Thin the seedlings to about 3 in
(7 cm) apart for baby salad
leaves, or 6 in (15 cm) apart for
larger leaves to use for cooking.
Protect seedlings in winter with
a cloche (see p.409).
HARVESTING
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Spinach seed
A line of string
Trowel
Watering can
You can cut the leaves
when they are large
enough to eat. Whether you
remove individual leaves or cut
off the entire plant, new leaves
will emerge for a second crop.
Regular watering can help
prevent plants from running
to seed in warm weather.
Oriental greens
SOW SEED
These are some of the most useful autumn vegetables, providing a hint of
the exotic, just as the weather is cooling. They provide a great range of colors,
textures, and flavors, and can bring real variety to your salads and cooking.
WHEN TO START
Midsummer to early autumn
AT ITS BEST
Autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Seed
A line of string
Trowel
Watering can
Komatsuna, bok choy (pak choi),
mizuna, mibuna, and other Oriental
greens are best sown in late summer, or
they will quickly run to seed. They need
a rich, fertile, moist soil. Sow in situ or in
modules, thinning or planting to eventual
spacings of around 6 in (15 cm).
PICKING THE CROP
Pick the leaves when young as a
cut-and-come-again crop for salads
and stir fries, or leave them to mature fully
and harvest the entire plant. If you cut the
plant 1 in (2.5 cm) above the ground, it
will produce a second crop of leaves.
263
264 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Winter pickings
Winter can be a surprisingly bountiful time on the vegetable plot, but you need to plan ahead carefully
for a good crop of vegetables. Start sowing the previous spring, giving your plants all summer and
autumn to bulk up, and you should have plenty of fresh produce for winter dishes.
Leeks
Grow leeks as part of a crop rotation
because they will quickly succumb to
diseases if replanted in the same spot
year after year. Planting them deep
produces white and tender stems.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Winter
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes for sowing
1½ hours for planting out
YOU WILL NEED
Leek seed
Seed tray
Seed compost
Dibber or slim trowel
PLANT OUT
SOW IN TRAYS
In spring, sow seed thinly across a
seed tray and keep in a cold frame
or cool, sheltered spot while they germinate.
When the seedlings are about 8in (20cm)
tall, they are ready for planting out.
In a wellprepared bed,
mark out a line and
use your dibber to
make holes 8in
(20cm) deep and 6in
(15cm) apart. Drop a
leek into each hole,
making sure the roots reach the bottom,
and then water them in. There is no need
to backfill with soil; this will happen
slowly, of its own accord, allowing some
light to reach the small leek plants.
CROP CARE AND HARVEST
Leeks require very little attention
after planting. You only need to
water during prolonged dry spells. The
crop will sit happily in the ground until
you want to harvest, but the stems are
prone to snapping when extracted from
frozen soil. If freezing conditions are
forecast, lift the leeks beforehand, trim
the leaves, wrap them in newspaper,
and store in a cool place.
<<
Parsnips
SOW IN
DRILLS
Always
sow fresh seed.
On well-drained
soil, mark out a
line with string
and make a
shallow drill, then
sow seed thinly
along it. Once germinated, thin to 3in
(7cm) apart for small, sweet roots, or
slightly farther apart for larger ones.
For the best winter parsnips, sow as
soon as the soil has warmed up in
spring. They will grow all summer,
forming sweet and starchy winter roots.
WHEN TO START
Early spring
AT THEIR BEST
Winter
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
FROST PROTECTION
In cold weather you may need to
apply a straw mulch (pinned down
with hoops of wire) to prevent the soil
and the parsnips from freezing.
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes for sowing
3 hours for planting out
HARVEST CROPS
Parsnips taste sweetest
after a light frost, so don’t
harvest too early. The leaves die
down in winter, so you will need
to mark the rows well so that
roots are easily found. Dig up and
eat as required; their taste will
improve as the winter wears on.
YOU WILL NEED
Parsnip seed
String
Straw
Wire
Plant markers
Brussels sprouts
Love them or hate them, no winter vegetable patch is complete without brussels
sprouts. They are big plants that need lots of attention, but they will reward you well.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Winter
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes for sowing
3 hours for planting out
YOU WILL NEED
Brussels sprout seed
Seed trays
Soil mix
Cage
Mesh
COVER PLANTS
Sow in seed trays and add
manure to your beds at the same
time. Plant out the seedlings about four
weeks later, at least 3ft (1m) apart. Cover
plants with a fine mesh to keep out
cabbage white butterflies, which lay their
eggs on the foliage, as well as pigeons.
CROP CARE AND HARVEST
Keep plants well watered until
established, and remove withered
leaves, which may carry diseases. As they
grow, draw up soil around the stems to
give them extra stability. Flavor is at its
best after a good, hard frost. Harvest
sprouts as you need them, picking from
the base of the stalk and moving up. After
picking all of the sprouts, chop off the top
leaves and cook as you would greens.
265
266 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Grow year-round salads
Growing cress and sprouting seeds indoors provides a constant supply of fresh ingredients for salads
and sandwiches all year round. Sow cress every couple of weeks, and prepare jars of sprouts on a daily
basis. These easy projects are ideal for children, who love to watch the plants develop.
WATER THE POTS
Repeat for several pots—you will
need a few if growing for salads.
Set the pots on a plant tray or saucers,
and water them to dampen the towels.
Easy cress
One packet of seeds will be enough for a
few sowings. Reseal the packet and store
in a container in the refrigerator.
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
Cress seed
Small pots
Paper towels
Nontoxic felt-tip pen
All-purpose potting mix
Plastic bags
FOLD KITCHEN TOWEL
Fold a sheet of kitchen towel in
quarters. Invert a pot over it and
draw around the rim with a pen. Cut out
the circles of paper. Fill the pot with
potting mix to just below the rim and
place the four paper circles on top.
SOW THE SEEDS
Sprinkle some seeds onto the paper.
Place each pot in a plastic bag, seal
loosely and store in a cool dark place. When
the seedlings are ½ in (1 cm), remove the
bag. Set pots on a windowsill out of direct
sun, and keep moist until the cress is ready.
Crunchy sprouts
Delicious and packed with nutrients, sprouting beans add
crunchy texture to salads, and you can choose from many
different varieties. From spicy onion to mild broccoli, you
will find a taste to suit, or try a few and mix them together.
TIME TO COMPLETE
VARIETIES TO TRY
5 minutes each day
Adzuki
Alfalfa
Beet
Broccoli
Chickpea
Fenugreek
Lentil
Mung
Onion
Red cabbage
Rocket
Snow peas
Wheatgrass
YOU WILL NEED
Packets of beans or
seeds
Sprouting jars with lids
or tiered sprouters
Storage containers
CLEAN THE CONTAINER
RINSE AND DRAIN
Proprietary sprouting
jars with meshed lids
and tiered sprouters are widely
available from garden centers.
Make sure you clean them
thoroughly before each use.
Then pour seeds into your jar
(or sprouter), fill it with water,
and leave the seeds to soak
for 8–10 hours.
After soaking, invert
the jar over the sink
and allow the water to drain
out. Rinse the seeds again in
fresh cold water and drain
again. Make sure there is no
water left in the bottom of the
jar, and place it in a light area
out of direct sun.
KEEP RINSING
STORE AND USE
Rinse and drain the
seeds with cold water
twice a day to keep them
clean and moist. Many seeds
sprout and are ready to eat in
four or five days. When they
are ready, give the sprouts a
final rinse, drain, and leave
for eight hours to allow excess
water to evaporate.
When the sprouts
are dry, use them
immediately, or store them in
the refrigerator for up to five
days. If any go moldy, discard
them. You can also store the
beans in a dark cabinet which
will produce white sprouts
that have a slightly different
flavor to the green ones
grown in light.
SELECTIONS >>
268 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Edible flowers
Some flowers can be eaten as well as admired: lavender and roses have
a light, perfumed flavor; French marigolds taste spicy; nasturtium peppery;
mallow is sweet; and tangy pot marigold petals add a golden hue to food.
Most flavors are delicate, and while they may add a subtle taste, edible
flowers are most often used as adornments—sweet ones to decorate cakes
and puddings, and savoury types sprinkled over salads.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Wild pansy, Viola tricolor; h5 in (12 cm) s6 in (15 cm) ABe H12–1
2 Pot marigold, Calendula
officinalis; h20 in (50 cm) s16 in (40 cm) ABd H6–1 3 Bergamot, Monarda didyma; h3 ft (1 m)
s18 in (45 cm) ABe H9–1 4 Rose (scented species), eg Rosa ‘Summer Wine’; h10 ft (3 m) s7 ft
(2.2 m) AE H9–5 5 Lavender, Lavandula angustifolia; h3 ft (1 m) s 4 ft (1.2 m) Ad H8–5
6 Zucchini; h18 in (45 cm) s3 ft (1 m) Ade
7 Nasturtium, Tropaeolum majus Alaska Series;
h12 in (30 cm) s18 in (45 cm) Ae H9–1 8 Anchusa azurea ‘Loddon Royalist’; h3 ft (1 m)
s 24 in (60 cm) Ae H8–1 9 Annual mallow, Malope trifida; h3 ft (1 m) s10 in (24 cm) Ae H8–1
0 French marigold, Tagetes Gem Series ‘Tangerine Gem’; h9 in (23 cm) s12 in (30 cm) AD
Warning: the pollen of some flowers may cause a reaction in those who suffer from asthma or hayfever.
269
SELECTIONS >>
<<
270 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Grow tasty bulbs
Onions, shallots, and garlic are among the most essential of all vegetables, adding strong, savory flavors
to a vast number of traditional and exotic dishes. Try out a range of cultivars for different tastes. Dry
them well, and you can store the bulbs for use throughout winter.
Onions
Onions can be grown from seed or sets
(small bulbs). Sets are more costly, and
there is a smaller range of cultivars
available, but they are quick, reliable,
and a good choice for beginners.
WHEN TO START
Early spring
AT THEIR BEST
Midsummer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Onion sets
Spade
Horticultural grit for heavy soils
Rake
String line
PLANT SETS
Onions need good
drainage, so add
horticultural grit to heavier
soils. Stretch a line of string
between two pegs to make
a straight row. Use a rake to
form a shallow furrow, and
plant the sets 6 in (15 cm)
apart, with the tips
protruding. Weed regularly,
and water during dry spells.
LIFT AND DRY
Onions are ready
for harvesting in
midsummer, when the
leaves turn yellow and fold
over. Lift them and leave
them in a cool, airy place
to dry out for a couple of
weeks. Use any with thick
necks right away, and store
the others for later.
Shallots
Many people prefer the sweet, milder
flavor of shallots as an alternative to
onions. They can be harvested earlier
and stored longer than onions.
WHEN TO START
Early spring
AT THEIR BEST
Mid-autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Shallot sets
Horticultural grit for heavy soil
String line
Rake
Garlic
Despite its reputation as an ingredient used in warmer countries, garlic is
surprisingly easy to grow in cooler climates, although it needs a long growing
season. Always use bulbs from a reputable supplier.
WHEN TO START
Autumn
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO PLANT
In late winter or early spring,
prepare the bed as for onions (see
left). Plant shallots into well-drained soil,
spacing them 6–8 in (15–20 cm) apart.
Make a small hole, then push the shallot
into the ground so the top is just showing.
LIFT BULBS
Shallots form small clumps of
bulbs, which you should lift intact.
Dry and store them whole, somewhere
dry and well ventilated, and break off
individual bulbs as you need them. They
will store well for up to 12 months.
Garlic bulbs
Dibber
String line
Rake
Horticultural grit for
heavy soils
HARVEST AND DRY
HOW TO PLANT
Plant into well-drained soil; add
horticultural grit to heavy soils, or
plant into a low ridge of soil. Split the
bulb into individual cloves, plant with the
point facing up, 4 in (10 cm) deep, 8 in
(20 cm) apart, and cover with soil.
Garlic is ripe when the leaves turn
yellow in summer. Lift the bulbs
and hang them to dry. Store individually
or braid them together while the stems
are dry but flexible. Starting with three
bulbs, braid the stems until there is room
to add more, then join the new stems to
the other strings of the braid. Store in a
cool, dry, well-ventilated place.
272 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Bag up some tomatoes
Tomatoes grow very successfully in grow bags in a greenhouse or outdoors. Crops can be improved
by inserting bottomless pots full of soil into the grow bag to increase the volume for better root growth.
Buy young plants in late spring, or sow seed indoors earlier in the season.
WHEN TO START
Mid-spring
AT THEIR BEST
Early autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours over a few months
YOU WILL NEED
Two tomato plants
Grow bag
Two plastic pots
Stanley knife
Some extra soil
Stake (bamboo cane or
chestnut stake)
Garden twine
VARIETIES TO TRY
‘Black Russian’
‘Gardener’s Delight’
‘Marmande’
‘Shirley’
‘Summer Sweet’ F1
‘Sungold’ F1
CUT OUT HOLES
Cut the bottom off the pots, then
place them on the grow bag and
cut around them. Push the pots into the bag
and fill them up with the spare soil.
<<
PLANT INTO
THE POTS
PINCH OUT
SIDESHOOTS
Plant one tomato per
pot at the same level as it
was growing in its container.
Plant straggly plants a little
deeper. This encourages
new roots to form along
the buried stem, helping
stabilize the plants.
As the plants grow,
small sideshoots appear
off the main stem. These
should be removed as soon
as possible because they
will take energy away from
the ripening fruits. When
they are small, simply pinch
them out with your fingers.
TIE IN MAIN
STEMS
NIP OUT THE TOP
You can help the
plant put all its
energy into ripening
the fruits by preventing it
from putting on too much
growth. After outdoor
plants have set four trusses
of fruits, and greenhouse
plants six, nip out the top
shoot with your fingers.
Tomato plants need
to be regularly tied in to
a sturdy support. Make a
figure-eight knot using
twine, tying tightly around
the support, and loosely
around the plant stem,
to allow room for growth.
FRUITING AND
HARVESTING
Tomatoes are best when
picked fully ripe, but you are likely
to have some green tomatoes
at the end of the season. Cutting
back on watering can help shock
the plant into ripening the fruits.
If it is getting cold and your
tomatoes must be harvested, pull
up the whole plant and hang it by
its roots somewhere cool and dark
to finish ripening.
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
TOP TIP: CAREFUL WATERING
Cracks can appear in
the skin just as fruits are
ripening. The problem
is due to changes in
growth rate, caused by
fluctuating temperatures
and erratic watering; as
growth slows during a
cool, dry period, skins
harden and do not have
the elasticity to cope if
growth later picks up
and fruits swell. It is a
particular problem in
soft-grown plants: those that have been fed too much
nitrogen. While you cannot control temperatures, you can
make sure watering is regular, and that you provide the
correct feeding regime. Make provisions for watering if
you go away, even for a few days, and feed weekly with
a specially formulated tomato feed, one rich in flower-and
fruit-promoting potassium.
273
274 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Sow peas and pods
Sweet and crunchy, peas of every kind are delicious vegetables, and especially loved by children who
can pop them in their mouths the moment they are picked. Sugarsnaps and snow peas are expensive
to buy in the stores, too, but are both surprisingly easy to grow and very productive.
Peas
Peas are at their finest the moment
they are picked. Grow your own and you
will never eat store-bought ones again.
WHEN TO START
Winter
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Pea seed
Fork
Spade
String line
Pea sticks or pea netting
SOW SEED
Dig the area in winter and leave
it until early spring. Remove any
weeds, and create a trench 1¼ in (3 cm)
deep along a string line. Plant the seeds
2 in (5 cm) apart, in two rows 8 in (20 cm)
apart, and cover with soil. Water well.
Keep soil moist for bumper crops and
to prevent powdery mildew.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Snow peas
These are also known as “mangetout”—“eat all” in French—and that is exactly
what you do with these tender, crunchy pods. The young pods of any peas can
be eaten whole, but these have soft inner walls, are flat, and the peas inside
do not swell. Add them to stir fries, lightly steam, or eat them raw in salads.
SUPPORT YOUR PEAS
Peas are short, climbing plants and
need support as they grow. Insert
short twiggy pea sticks (see p.307) next
to each plant, or stretch closely woven
pea netting along the row between two
upright supports.
WHEN TO
HARVEST
Peas are
ready about three
weeks after
flowering. The
pods at the base
of the plant
mature first. Pick
them when they
are young for the
sweetest taste.
Keep picking, and
the plant will keep
producing. After harvesting, cut the plant
off and leave the roots in the ground to
release nitrogen—a natural fertilizer.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Snow pea seed
Spade
Rake
Pea sticks or pea netting
BEFORE YOU PLANT
Choose a sunny, open spot, and
dig the soil over about a month
before sowing time. Use a rake to make
a trench deep 1¼ in (3 cm) deep, and
sow the seed 2 in (5 cm) apart. Cover
the seed with soil and water in well.
Sugarsnap peas
This is another pea relative that is eaten whole, pod and all. The difference between
these and snow peas is that sugarsnaps have a firm inner pod that gives them more
of a crunch. They also swell up like normal pea pods.
PLANTING AND CARE
Sugarsnap peas grow well in cool conditions,
and can be sown directly into the soil from
early spring for a summer crop; sow in
midsummer for an autumn crop. Sow a
small amount of seed every couple of
weeks, using the same method as peas,
to give a succession of crops. Since some
sugarsnap peas grow tall, provide a sturdy
frame 6 ft (2 m) high with long pea sticks,
or pea netting stretched between upright
poles. Keep the peas well watered. Harvest
the pods while young and tender, which will
encourage the plants to produce more.
SUPPORT AND CARE
Push pea sticks into the ground
close to the seed. Keep the plants
well watered, especially when they are
flowering, and during warm weather.
Harvest frequently, as soon as the pods
reach 2–2½ in (5–6 cm) long.
275
276 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Grow sweet squash
Summer and winter squashes, which include zucchinis and pumpkins, as well as butternut varieties,
are satisfying and fun plants to grow. They are tender and need protection at the beginning of the year,
but once the danger of frost has passed, they will grow quickly, forming strong, bountiful plants.
PLANT SEEDS
Fill small pots with seed soil mix.
Zucchini seedlings are large, so
plant just one seed in each pot. Water
them in and cover the pots with clear
plastic bags to encourage germination.
Bags of zucchinis
Zucchinis are so easy to grow that you don’t even need a pot, let alone space
in the border. A large, well-made plastic bag can contain enough soil to keep
a single zucchini plant happy and productive.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes to sow; 30 minutes
to plant
Zucchini seeds
Seed soil mix
Multi-purpose soil mix
Large, sturdy plastic bags
Scissors
Small pots
Mulch, such as bark chips
CHOOSE A SUNNY SITE
Once the seedlings have
germinated, remove the bags
and place the pots in a warm, sunny
spot. Keep them indoors, or in a warm
greenhouse, until all danger of frost has
passed in late spring or early summer.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Plump pumpkins
Pumpkins and winter squash are left to mature all summer, and can then
be stored, ready for use in the kitchen throughout autumn and winter.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT THEIR BEST
Autumn and winter
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes to sow; 1 hour to plant
YOU WILL NEED
PLANT INTO A LARGE BAG
Once the weather has warmed,
harden off your plants by standing
them outside during the day, and bringing
them inside at night, for a couple of
weeks. Set your plastic bag in a sheltered
sunny spot outside. Make drainage holes
with scissors in the bottom of the bag, fill
with soil, and plant the zucchinis.
Pumpkin and squash seeds
Seed soil mix and small pots
Well-rotted organic matter
Straw
SOW AND PLANT OUT
Sow the seeds indoors in spring and keep
frost-free until the weather warms (see
Steps 1 and 2 opposite). Choose a sunny spot,
and enrich the soil with plenty of organic matter
before planting. Mulch with straw to seal in
moisture, and to prevent the fruits lying on wet
soil and rotting.
HARVEST AND STORE
Cool weather can lead to the formation of
male, nonfruiting flowers at first, but later
female flowers (right) will come. Pumpkins need
a long summer to grow and ripen. They are ready
to harvest when the stalk starts to crack. Cut with
stalk intact, keep the large orange fruits dry for at
least 10 days, then store in a cool, dry place.
ADD LAYER OF MULCH
Firm the plants in and water them
well. To help retain moisture, cover
the soil with a thick mulch of chipped bark
or organic matter. Water every day during
summer, and feed weekly with a tomato
fertilizer. The plants grow rapidly, and
will soon form large golden flowers that
develop into tasty zucchinis.
TOP TIP: MAKE A RESERVOIR FOR WATERING
Pumpkins, squash, and zucchinis are
thirsty plants that hate dry soil. Plant into
a depression in the soil or make a ridge
of soil up around them to create a well.
Water will then pool around the plant
roots and seep into the soil, rather than
flowing away.
277
SELECTIONS >>
278 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Squash and pumpkins
Winter squash and pumpkins are as beautiful as they are tasty. They come
in a variety of vibrant and bizarre colors and shapes, and many, such as
‘Turk’s Turban’ (below) are prized as much for their ornamental value as for
their flesh. They love plenty of sun and moisture and, once fully grown and
mature, the fruit can be stored well into winter. Delicious roasted, they are
the quintessential autumn vegetable: comfort food at its best.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
Individual fruits vary in size and weight according to variety, from tennis- to beach ball-sized, so check
the packet first. Grow varieties with large fruit, such as pumpkins and butternut squash, as groundcover,
where they will spread 15 ft (4 m). Smaller-fruited varieties can be grown up sturdy supports. Reaching
3–6 ft (1–2 m) high, and taking up little ground space, they are ideal for smaller gardens.
1 Squash ‘Turk’s Turban’
2 Squash ‘Hasta La Pasta’ 3 Squash ‘Red Kuri’
Dumpling’ 5 Pumpkin, Cucurbita maxima cultivars
marrow ‘Badger Cross’ F1
4 Squash ‘Sweet
6 Squash ‘Little Gem Rollet’ 7 Bush
8 Squash ‘Hooligan’ F1 hybrid
9 Butternut squash ‘Pilgrim’
‘Tromboncino’. Conditions required by all cultivars: AdE H12–1.
0 Squash
279
SELECTIONS >>
<<
280 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Heat up your windowsill
Chilies are easy to grow if you have a warm windowsill or a hot, sunny patio. Sow seeds in spring and
you can look forward to fresh chilies from summer to the autumn, or all year round if you dry them.
Experiment with different colored varieties and levels of heat.
WHEN TO START
Mid-spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer to autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Chili seeds
3½ in (8 cm) pots
Seed soil
Clear plastic bag
Larger pots
Multi-purpose soil
Small stakes
Tomato fertilizer
SOW SEED
Select seed to suit your taste—
some are much hotter than others.
You can also sow seed from dried chilies
grown the previous year, but they may
revert to a common type if you planted
a named hybrid. In spring, fill small pots
with moist seed soil. Place about two or
three seeds on the surface and cover
lightly with more soil. Water, label, and
place pots in a plastic bag. As soon as
the seedlings appear, remove the bag.
SEEDLING
CARE
When 1 in
(2 cm) tall, separate
seedlings into their
own small pots and
set on a sunny
windowsill. Keep well
watered. When they
are about 8 in (20 cm)
tall, pot them on into
larger containers.
GROW THEM ON
Pinch the growing tips
out when the plants are
12 in (30 cm) to encourage
more shoots, and stake as
necessary. Harden plants off if
you plan to keep them outside
(see p.109). Feed weekly with
tomato fertilizer when buds
appear, and pick the fruit when
green for a milder taste, or
leave until they are red hot.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Grow fabulous mushrooms
Mushroom-picking in the wild is only for the experts, but you can grow your own at home with
a specialist kit. Some come in the form of dowels impregnated with mycelium that you plant into
logs; others, like the one used here, are simple kits in boxes, ideal for beginners.
WHEN TO START
Early spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Mushroom kit
Measuring cup
FILL BOX WITH SOIL
ADD WATER TO
THE CASING
Box kits come with
mushroom soil that has
been injected with mycelium, and
a “casing layer” that holds water
and protects the developing
mushrooms. First, line the box
with a plastic bag (most kits
come with this too) and add
the mushroom soil.
RUFFLE THE SURFACE
Empty the contents
of the bag onto the soil
in the box. Spread the casing
evenly over the soil and ruffle
the surface with a small fork.
This creates a microclimate
where the young mushrooms
can form. Rest the lid at an
angle on the box so that air
can circulate.
Open the bag of casing
and slowly add 1 pint (0.5 liters)
of water. Leave for about an
hour to allow the moisture to
soak in. Take a small handful
of the mushroom soil and
mix it into the casing layer
in the bag.
CHECK DAILY
Place the box in a
warm spot at 68–75°F
(20–24°C), but not in an airing
cabinet or by a radiator. After a
few days, white mycelium will
form on the surface. Remove
the lid and place in a dark spot
at 61–68°F (16–20°C). Mist to
keep the soil moist. Mushrooms
should appear after six days.
281
282 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Unwrap tender treats
Among the greatest delights of the vegetable patch are those crops that hide their bounty beneath
tactile wrappers. Corn, with its squeaky skin that peels back to reveal the cob, and broad beans, with
soft, fur-lined pods, are particularly pleasing for children, who love discovering the treats within.
Corn
Corn is a tender plant that is easily damaged by cold weather.
Sow it indoors in mid-spring, and only plant it out after
the danger of frost has passed—late spring at the earliest,
depending on where you live.
WHEN TO START
Mid- to late spring
AT THEIR BEST
Late summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
A few hours over several weeks
YOU WILL NEED
Corn seeds
Compost
Small pots for sowing
Seed labels
String
Ruler
HOW TO SOW
Corn will be ready for
planting out about six
weeks after sowing indoors in
pots. Clear all weeds from the
soil and dig it over thoroughly.
Plant out in square blocks—
which aids pollination—spacing
plants 14 in (35 cm) apart. You
can also sow direct from late
spring onward, but sow two
seeds per station in case one
of them fails to grow.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Broad beans
This is a gourmet crop that matures in early summer, when most other
vegetables are still getting started. The beans are easy to grow and very hardy.
In well-drained soils, sow them in autumn for an early crop; in heavier soils,
you may have to wait a until spring. Give them a sunny, sheltered site.
TEST FOR RIPENESS
Once the tassels turn brown, test
regularly for ripeness. Press a nail
into a kernel—if a milky liquid comes out,
it is ready; if watery, it is under-ripe; but if
doughy, the corn has passed its best.
HARVESTING
THE COBS
Pick the cobs
by twisting them off,
only when you are
ready to eat them;
their natural sugars
quickly turn starchy
once picked. Corn is delicious wrapped in
foil and grilled on a barbecue.
WHEN TO START
Early autumn or spring
AT THEIR BEST
Early summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes for sowing
YOU WILL NEED
Bean seeds
Dibber
Wooden pegs
String
Garden stakes
TOP TIP: INTERCROPPING
Try growing other
crops among your
corn, because its
foliage lets lots of
light through to the
ground. Use quick
maturing crops such as lettuces,
or corn’s traditional intercropping
partners, winter squash and pumpkin.
SOW SEED
Peg out a length of string and
make holes along its length, 3 in
(6 cm) deep, 10 in (25 cm) apart, and
drop a single seed into the base of each
one. Mark out and sow successive rows
at 8 in (20 cm) intervals. Refill the holes
with soil, and water the seeds in well.
PINCH OUT
GROWING
TIPS
To reduce the risk of
aphid damage, snap
off the soft tips of
the bean plants once
they have started to produce pods.
SUPPORT PLANTS
Broad beans can grow up to
4 ft (1.2 m) tall and become
heavily laden with pods, which can
cause the plants to collapse. To prevent
this, support the plants by using garden
stakes and string to make an open frame
around them, particularly in windy areas.
HARVEST
Broad beans are usually ready to
harvest four to five months after
planting. Check the pods regularly, and
pick them once they are clearly swollen
with beans but still look glossy. Once the
pods turn leathery, although the beans
inside are still edible, they will be tough.
283
284 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Make a box of herbs and leaves
Growing herbs and salads in a windowbox provides a fresh supply close to the kitchen, and by making
a box to your own specifications, you can ensure it fits your space perfectly. All you need are some
simple tools and a few basic carpentry skills to create this design.
CUT INTO LENGTHS
WHEN TO START
Any time
Double-check the measurements
and cut out the pieces. To create
straight cuts and a neater finish, support
both ends of the lumber as you saw.
AT ITS BEST
Spring and summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
4 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Herbs and small lettuce plants
Drill, saw, and tape measure
2 in (5 cm) self-tapping screws
Treated lumber
Battens (about 1⁄2 in thick)
Copper antislug tape
1
⁄2 in (12mm) roofing tacks
Multipurpose compost
MEASURE WOOD
Decide on the length of your
windowbox and buy pieces of
wood long enough to make two sides,
two ends, and a base, and mark them out.
<<
SCREW SIDES
TOGETHER
ATTACH BATTENS
TO BASE
Attach the base by
screwing it to both side
and end pieces. Cut two
battens to size, to fit the
underside of the box. These
will lift the base off the
windowsill, allowing space
for drainage. Turn the box
upside down and attach the
battens with short screws.
Use self-tapping
screws to attach one side
piece to an end piece; two
screws should be enough.
If the wood is hard, drill
small pilot holes first.
Repeat with the other side
and end pieces. Screw the
two sections together.
DRILL DRAINAGE
HOLES
Good drainage is
essential for healthy plants.
With the box still upside
down, use a drill to make a
½ in (1 cm) hole every 4 in
(10 cm) along the base of
the trough. Take care not to
damage the surface below.
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
FIX COPPER TAPE
Attach a band of
copper tape around
the trough to deter snails
and slugs, and to provide a
decorative finish. Check that
you have sufficient tape to
wrap all the way around
without leaving any gaps.
PLANT WITH HERBS AND SALAD LEAVES
Fill the trough with compost and plant up with a range of herbs, and a few
young lettuce plants. Make sure none of them forms a bridge over the copper
tape as they grow, which would enable snails to bypass the tape and climb in.
NAIL TAPE SECURELY
To keep the tape in place, hammer
small tacks along it, at 4–6 in
(10–15 cm) intervals. Add more to make
a feature of them, if desired. Make sure
the tape seam is secure.
285
286 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Sow a bowl of salad
Salads are “must-grow” vegetables, and taste so much better when picked fresh rather than bought.
They are among the easiest of vegetables to grow, require little space, and mature in a few weeks.
Sowing in pots
Grow salad leaves in containers, and
you can just step outside and cut them
when you need them. Cut-and-comeagain leaf crops make the most of
limited space and give a ready supply.
WHEN TO START
Spring and throughout summer
AT ITS BEST
Summer into autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
Mixed salad leaf seed
Containers
Soil
Scissors
a p Cut and come again
While it is possible to grow traditional “headed”
lettuce in containers, you will get more salad
from the space, and a more attractive effect, if
you choose leaves that grow back after cutting.
CHOOSE A VARIETY
For an attractive and colorful
display, and an interesting bowl
of salad, look for seed mixes containing
a variety of different colors and textures.
Lettuce mixes are a good choice early in
the season because they germinate well
and grow abundantly in cooler conditions.
The cooler nightime temperatures in
spring, and lengthening days, can make
baby Oriental leaf mixtures flower and
go to seed all too quickly; sow these
after midsummer. Ensure your containers
have drainage holes at the bottom, and
cover them with broken pot pieces. Then
fill with compost and firm down.
SOW ON SOIL SURFACE
Sow thinly across the surface, cover
lightly with soil and water well.
Cut-and-come-again crops can be sown
thickly, but thin the seedlings to a spacing
of about 2 in (5 cm) when they are large
enough to handle.
HARVEST THE LEAVES
When the leaves reach about 6 in
(15 cm) high, cut them with a pair
of scissors. Keep them fresh until needed
in a moistened, sealed plastic bag. The
plants will regrow several times before
they are exhausted and need replacing.
Growing in beds
Beds provide more space than pots, so use them for larger, traditional, headed
lettuces, although cut-and-come-again crops will flourish here too.
Green onions
SOW IN DRILLS
Both types of lettuce should be
sown in shallow drills. The only
difference is that headed lettuce should
be sown much more thinly. Once seeds
have germinated, thin them out to
6–12 in (15–30 cm) apart, depending
on their final size.
TAKE CARE
Protect your plants from slugs
using mini cloches made from
clear plastic bottles (see p.426). You
may also need to net them to keep
birds from eating your crops. Water
them regularly during summer. They
are prone to bolting in hot weather,
so plant them close to taller crops,
such as beans, that will provide shade.
Leafy options
Arugula has a strong, piquant taste that
gives a kick to milder lettuce-based
salads. Lamb’s lettuce (corn salad) is
a winter crop with a nuttier flavor.
GROWING AND HARVESTING
Green onions are an ideal crop for pots
and containers. Sprinkle a small amount
of seed on the surface of the soil once
every two weeks throughout spring and
summer, to ensure a constant supply.
Green onions sown in late summer can
be left in the soil during winter, to harvest
the following spring.
i Pack a punch
Simply lift the tangy bulbs from the soil as you
need them and use in salads or stir-fries.
PLANTING AND AFTERCARE
Arugula is best sown in spring and early
autumn, when the cooler temperatures
make it less likely to bolt. Sow thinly and
protect the plants from flea beetles, which
nibble the leaves, by covering them with
a fine mesh or garden fleece.
Lamb’s lettuce can be sown at any time
in spring and summer. It is a useful crop to
sow late in the season to provide a tasty
winter substitute for lettuce. For the best
quality leaves, grow lamb’s lettuce under
cloches, or in a greenhouse or polytunnel.
Green onions fit in almost anywhere,
and will germinate quickly and mature
between other crops. These shallowrooted plants will even grow and produce
a crop in a seed tray or container.
a Tasty leaves
Lamb’s lettuce (top) and arugula will make a
tasty addition to your lunchtime sandwiches.
SELECTIONS >>
288 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Salad leaves
With such a wide variety of salads on offer, you can grow leaves for your
salad bowl all year round, if you can provide some frost protection in winter.
From mild, buttery lettuce to spicy mizuna, oriental mustard and arugula, and
bitter chicory and endive, salads will never be boring again. You can even
snip in a few chives for a hint of onion. Grow a range with different tastes
and colors, and provide shelter from hot sun for the best leaves.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Endive ‘Pancalieri’; h4 in (10 cm) s12 in (30 cm) BE H9–1 2 Lettuce ‘Red Oakleaf’; h8 in
(20 cm) s12 in (30 cm) BE H12–1
H12–1
3 Lettuce ‘Tin Tin’; h12 in (30 cm) s8 in (20 cm)BE
4 Lettuce ‘Lollo Rosso’; hs8 in (20 cm) BE H12–1
6 Lettuce ‘Rosemoor’; hs12 in (30 cm) BE H12–1
8 Arugula; h12 in (30 cm) s4 in (10 cm) BE H12–1
BE H8–1 0 Chives; hs12 in (30 cm) BE H12–1
(30 cm) BE H9–7
5 Mizuna; hs12 in (30 cm) BE
7 Radicchio; hs12 in (30 cm) BE H8–1
9 Oriental mustard; hs12 in (30 cm)
q Red-veined sorrel; h8 in (20 cm) s12 in
289
SELECTIONS >>
<<
290 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Pot up delicious strawberries
Growing strawberries in containers suits them perfectly because it lifts the fruits off the ground,
keeping them away from slugs, mice, and other pests, as well as wet soil that can cause the berries
to rot. Replace your strawberries with fresh, young plants every few years.
WHEN TO PLANT
Early spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Three strawberry plants
Large pot
Broken clay pot pieces
Multipurpose potting mix
Slow-release granular fertilizer
Bark chips
Straw
PREPARE TO PLANT
Take three young, healthy plants
and water them thoroughly, an
hour before planting. Cover the holes in
the base of the large pot with broken clay
pieces to prevent soil from blocking them,
and then add soil until the pot is twothirds full. Firm down lightly.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
PLANT AROUND
EDGE OF POT
EASE PLANTS
FROM SMALL
CONTAINERS
Place the three plants
around the edges of the pot
so that the fruits will dangle
over. Fill all around them
with soil, add some
fertilizer granules and then
firm down. Water well, and
daily thereafter.
Take the plants out of their
pots and check the roots.
If they are root bound, and
running in tight circles
inside the pot, tease them
out carefully to help the
plants establish quicker.
REMOVE FLOWERS
You will have
healthier plants in the
long run if you sacrifice the
first year’s fruits, allowing
them to concentrate on
root growth. Nip the
flowers out as they appear.
The following year, apply a
tomato fertilizer every week
after the flower buds form.
TOP TIP: PROTECTING THE FRUITS
Strawberry fruits can rot if
they come into contact with
wet soil. While most grown
in a pot will hang over the
sides, avoid any problems by
placing a straw mulch around
the top of the pot to lift fruits
away from the soil.
Tip-top berries
Strawberries can also be grown in
hanging baskets or windowboxes.
Dainty, tasty alpines are the best
choice for this type of container.
WHEN TO PLANT
Early spring
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Alpine strawberry plants
Hanging basket or windowbox
Multipurpose potting mix
Slow-release granular fertilizer
PLANT THE WINDOWBOX
Plant small plants fairly close
together to give an impressive
show and a good harvest. Add some
slow-release fertilizer granules to the
soil as you plant, and keep the plants
well watered throughout the year.
HARVESTING AND CARE
Harvest and eat the berries as they
ripen throughout summer. Check
the plants frequently and pick regularly
to encourage later fruits to ripen. The
plants will need lifting out of the pot
and dividing every three or four years.
291
292 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Make space for autumn berries
The sweet, refreshing taste of raspberries and the mellow, hedgerow flavor of blackberries make
them great additions to the productive garden. They can be eaten fresh, cooked and made into
delicious desserts, or preserved as tasty jams or jellies to eat throughout the year.
Raspberries
Vigorous and easy to grow, autumnfruiting raspberries look after themselves
once established, and just need regular
pruning to stop them from spreading.
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn
AT THEIR BEST
Early to mid-autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Raspberry canes
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Spade
Mulch
Stakes and thick wire
SUPPORT AND TRAIN
SELECT SITE AND PLANT
Raspberries prefer a moist soil and
grow in sun or partial shade. Dig in
plenty of organic matter and plant canes
in a row. Water well and apply a mulch.
Cut the canes to the ground after
planting. They can grow quite
unwieldy in summer and it is important
to provide a strong support. Hammer two
sturdy wooden stakes into the ground and
string thick wires between them at 24 in
(60 cm) intervals. Tie in the stems.
ROUTINE CARE
During the first year after planting,
pinch off any fruits that form, to
allow the plant to concentrate its energies
on root growth. Then, each year after
fruiting, cut the fruited canes to the ground.
Tie new canes to the support—these will
produce fruit the following year.
Blackberry pot
Blackberries are usually big plants and
unsuitable for pots, but the thornless
varieties are less vigorous and can be
successfully grown in a large container.
They are amenable plants and can grow
well in sun or in partial shade.
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn
AT ITS BEST
Late summer to early autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Blackberry plant, ‘Loch Maree’
used here
Large pot
Soil-based potting mix
Broken clay pot pieces
Stakes or trellis for support
PLANT UP AND FEED
Place the clay pieces in the bottom
of the container to aid drainage
and to prevent the holes from blocking up.
Fill with soil and plant. Most soil contains
enough nutrients for the first few months,
but in summer in subsequent years apply
a tomato feed every week to promote
flowering and fruiting.
TIE IN STEMS
Blackberries produce long growths
that need tying in. Insert a few
strong stakes into the soil, or place the
container up against a sturdy trellis. When
tying, create a “figure-eight” so that the
stem does not make direct contact with the
support, which could lead to rubbing and
the creation of wounds.
PRUNING AND CARE
Blackberries always fruit on the
previous year’s stems. Therefore,
just after you have harvested your crop,
remove any stems that have fruited by
cutting them at their base. Tie any new
stems into the supports; these should
fruit the following year. Replace the top
layer of potting mix every spring.
294 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Grow super fruit
Every few years another food is labeled a “super food” because of its high levels of antioxidants,
vitamins, and nutrients. Many of these berries are easy to grow in your own garden, or on a patio
in a large container, giving you instant access to some of the healthiest foods available.
Aronia berries
Commonly known as chokeberry, Aronia has the highest level of cancer- and
age-fighting antioxidant, anthocyanin, of any fruit. The berries are tart when
eaten raw, and are best combined with other ingredients or sweetened.
GROWING TIPS
AFTERCARE
Aronia grows well in a range of conditions,
but is best in a moist, acidic soil, in partial
shade or full sun. Incorporate plenty of
organic matter before planting. It is a
large, shubby plant, reaching 6 ft (2 m)
tall, with a 10 ft (3 m) spread. As attractive
as it is productive, Aronia flowers in late
spring, and has superb autumn color
that complements the dark berries, so
plant this bush where it will be seen.
This plant should be kept moist at all
times, especially during the first year.
Apply a thick mulch of chipped bark
after planting to help retain moisture
and suppress weeds. Aronia takes a
few years to establish and reach full
productivity, so be patient. You may need
to protect plants from birds when the
berries are ripe; they develop their best
flavor after hard frosts.
a Nutritious berries
Dark purple Aronia berries have even higher
levels of health-promoting antioxidants than
the celebrated blueberry.
i Autumn blaze
The foliage turns beautiful shades of red and
orange in autumn, just as the berries ripen.
Goji berries
These berries contain large amounts
of vitamin C and iron. In China they
are most often used in savory dishes,
such as soups—a handful is thrown in
toward the end of cooking—or they
are stewed to make tea.
GROWING TIPS
Goji plants are fully hardy shrubs, and
prefer fertile, well-drained soil in a sunny
spot. When planting, incorporate lots of
well-rotted organic matter, such as
manure, and keep them well watered
for the first year. They flower in late
spring and summer, but are unlikely to
produce a worthwhile crop until the third
year after planting.
DRYING BERRIES
Use the berries when fresh, or dry them
for storing. Place them in the oven on its
lowest temperature, with the door open,
for a few hours, then store the berries in
clean, dry, airtight jars.
Honeyberries
Honeyberries have a blueberry-like appearance and taste,
although they are not generally thought as sweet and
flavorsome. However, they will grow in any soil, unlike the
blueberry, which requires acidic conditions.
GROWING TIPS
You need two plants of
different cultivars for one to
pollinate the other; otherwise
they will not fruit. It can be
tricky finding cultivars that
flower at the same time, so
ask suppliers when purchasing.
This is a hardy shrub that
prefers semi-shade, and moist,
well-drained soil. Plants can
have a wayward habit, so
prune after fruiting. Pick when
the fruit is soft but leave them
for two days before using to
allow the flavors to develop.
Honeyberry fruits the second
year after planting.
Jostaberries
This is a cross between a black currant and a gooseberry
and is extremely vigorous, so only plant it where you have
plenty of space. The fruit makes particularly good jam.
GROWING TIPS
Jostaberries are not fussy about soil, but will benefit from plenty
of organic matter. Choose a sheltered spot in full sun. They are
self-fertile and resistant to many of the pests and diseases that
affect gooseberries and black currants. Their vigor makes them
useful as informal hedging. Birds love the fruit, so net the plant
well at ripening time, or plant in a fruit cage.
296 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Plant fruit in a small space
Even if you have no garden soil in which to plant, you can still grow a fruit tree if you make your choice
carefully. Almost all fruit trees can be bought grown on dwarfing rootstocks, and grow well in large
containers as long as they’re well watered and fed. Such small trees can be surprisingly bountiful.
WHEN TO START
Late winter
AT ITS BEST
Autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
A large pot
Broken clay pot pieces
Potting soil
Slow-release granular fertilizer
A dwarf fruit tree
Pebbles or chips for mulch
PREPARE TO PLANT
Choose a large pot with a wide
base so that the tree is not easily
blown over, and stand it in a sunny,
sheltered spot. Make sure it has plenty
of drainage holes, or drill your own, and
cover them with a layer of broken clay
pot pieces to prevent soil from blocking
them. Fill the base with compost, and
add a sprinkling of slow-release fertilizer.
BEFORE PLANTNG
Fruit trees grown in containers are
almost totally dependent on the
fertilizer and water you give them.
So, to give your tree the best start and
to help it establish, soak the root ball
before planting because it is hard to wet
dry roots thoroughly afterward. The best
way to do this is to immerse the pot in a
large bucket of water and leave it to soak
for about an hour, or until the water stops
bubbling. Then, lift the tree from the
bucket and allow it to drain.
TEASE OUT ROOTS
Place the tree in the pot, adding
or removing compost, until the top
of the root ball is about 2in (5cm) below
the rim. Then lift the plant, remove it from
its original pot, and tease out the roots
from the root ball. This encourages the
roots to grow out into the soil, stabilizing
the tree, and helping it to establish quickly.
Place the tree in the container.
BACKFILL, STAKE, AND MULCH
Fill the gaps around the root ball
with more soil and water well.
Unless the tree already has a stake, insert
one now to hold the tree upright and to
help anchor it in the pot. If it has a stake,
carefully push it down into the new soil
below. To conserve moisture and suppress
weeds, apply a mulch of small pebbles
or chipped bark.
TOP TIP: SIZE MATTERS
Fruit trees are commonly grown on
dwarf rootstocks, which limit the size
of the tree. To grow fruit in containers,
choose apples grown on M26, M9 or,
for really small containers, M27. Look
for pears grown on Quince C, cherries
on Gisela 5, and for plums and
damsons, choose those grown on Pixy.
WATERING AND FEEDING
It is essential to keep the fruit tree
well watered, filling the pot to the
brim each time. To encourage the best
crop, don’t allow it to dry out when in
flower or fruit, and feed using a tomato
fertilizer every two weeks during spring
and summer. Water the tree during mild
dry spells in late autumn and winter, even
though it is dormant at those times of year.
298 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Fruit for large containers
You can grow a mini-orchard of fruit in patio containers if you’re willing to water and feed regularly.
Choose from soft fruits, such as currants and gooseberries, or tree fruits like apples, pears, and cherries,
grown on dwarfing rootstocks. Renew the top layer of soil every year for the best crop.
RED, WHITE, AND BLACK CURRANTS
These delicious fruits need moisture-retentive soil, and those in
pots must be watered regularly during the growing season. Plant
them in large containers filled with soil-based potting mix,
combined with well-rotted organic matter—garden compost or
manure is ideal. You can either grow them as bushes or train
them on a trellis like a climber (see pp.118–119). Apply a general
fertilizer for fruit crops in spring, and top up with tomato fertilizer
every week from late spring until the fruits ripen. Cover the
blooms with plastic sheeting if frosts are forecast. Site in a cool,
partly shaded spot. For pruning, see gooseberries (below).
GOOSEBERRIES
The sharp sweetness of gooseberries is
perfect for summer desserts and pies.
Planting and feeding requirements are the
same as for currants (see above), and if
the crop is heavy, thin the fruits in late
spring. Every winter, cut back the main
stems by half to an outward-facing bud,
and prune the sideshoots to one bud from
the main stems (beware of the spines).
Keep the plants well watered and harvest
ripe fruit in summer.
PEACHES AND CHERRIES
The best fruit trees for pots are those grown on
dwarfing rootstocks that still produce full-sized fruit.
Cherries are grafted onto Colt or Gisela 5 rootstocks,
and peaches on Pixy or St. Julien A. Good cherries
include ‘Compact Stella’ and ‘Maynard Mini Stem’;
for peaches try, ‘Bonanza’ and ‘Garden Lady’. Plant
in large pots of soil-based potting mix, keep in a
sheltered, sunny spot, and protect the blossom
with plastic sheeting. Feed in spring with allpurpose fertilizer, and apply tomato food every
fortnight after flowering. No pruning is needed.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
APPLES AND PEARS
Popular for pots, apples grown on the
dwarf rootstocks M27, M9, or M26, which
should be stated on the label, are widely
available. The choice of pears is smaller,
but look for those grown on Quince C or
Quince A. All of these compact trees
produce full-sized fruit. If you have space,
grow several and enjoy a variety of
different flavors from late summer and
throughout the autumn. Popular apple
varieties include ‘Egremont Russet’, ‘Cox’s
Orange Pippin’, ‘Discovery’, golden yellow
‘Elstar’, and ‘Blenheim Orange’, with its
crisp, nutty flavor. The pear varieties
‘Williams’ Bon Chrétien’, ‘Doyenné du
Comice’, and ‘Dwarf Lilliput’ are ideal for
containers. If space is really limited, you
can buy two different fruits grafted on to
one rootstock, offering two flavors for the
price of one. Planting and care is the same
for apples and pears (see pp.296–297).
Keep pots well watered throughout the
spring and summer.
1 ‘Fiesta’ apples are widely available on
dwarf rootstocks, and are sometimes sold
as ‘Red Pippin’. The red fruit has a flavor very
similar to English ‘Cox’s Orange Pippin’, and is
ready to pick in mid-autumn.
2 Disease- and frost-resistant, ‘Red Falstaff’
has a sweet, mellow flavor. It is ready to
harvest in mid-autumn and stores well.
3 ‘Pixie’ is a small, sweet apple that is
produced in abundance even on small trees.
To avoid too many tiny fruits, thin them in
early summer. Pick your crop in mid-autumn.
4 Commonly referred to as the Williams
pear, ‘Williams’ Bon Chrétien’ is the most
widely grown, and should be harvested
while the fruit is still hard.
5 Harvest the nutty-flavored ‘Egremont
Russet’ in early autumn and the fruit will
store till spring. Heavy cropping and resistant
to disease, it is a great apple for those who
enjoy something a bit different.
299
300 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Plant tasty tart fruit
Some fruits lend themselves to cooking. With the addition of a little sugar or honey, cooked rhubarb is
transformed from super-sharp to pure nectar. Blueberries can be delicious raw, depending on how ripe
they are, but their flavor really comes to life when they are baked in muffins or cakes.
TOP TIP: FORCING RHUBARB
CHOOSE AN OPEN SUNNY SITE
Dig in organic matter, plant, and
water in well. Protect your plant
from slugs, either by using a copper slug
ring or with a few slug pellets (see p.426).
Rhubarb
Once established, rhubarb looks after
itself year after year. All you need do
is pull as many stalks as you can eat.
WHEN TO PLANT
Late autumn
AT ITS BEST
Early summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
Rhubarb plant
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Spade
Slug pellets or a slug ring
HARVEST STALKS
Water during dry spells. Feed
every spring with an organic liquid
fertilizer, and mulch with well-rotted
manure. Do not pull any stalks the first
year and only one or two in the second
year. After that you can harvest more. To
harvest, pull and slightly twist the stems.
Forcing rhubarb, by excluding all
light when it first sprouts, results in
sweeter, more tender stalks. As soon
as you notice new shoots starting to
appear in spring, cover the plant with
a light-excluding barrier, such as a
metal bucket, a box, or a rhubarb
forcer, which will draw up the sweet
stalks. The tender stems will be ready
to pick about four weeks later—a
month or so earlier than other rhubarb.
Pick this crop, then leave the plant
to recover for the rest of the year,
and the following year.
Blueberry pots
These small, delicious berries are
regarded as “superfoods” because they
are particularly high in vitamins and
antioxidants. They need an acidic soil,
and to guarantee fruit you should grow
two different cultivars together.
WHEN TO PLANT
Mid-autumn
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Two blueberry plants
Two large pots
Broken clay pot pieces
Ericaceous soil mix and fertilizer
Mulch, such as bark chippings
Rainwater
PLANT IN LARGE POTS
Place broken clay pieces in the
base of each large pot and partfill with ericaceous soil mix. Plant the
blueberry plants at the same depth as
they were in their original pots, and fill in
around the root balls with more soil, to
within 2in (5cm) of the rim.
ADD FERTILIZER
To ensure a good crop, add a
slow-release ericaceous fertilizer
to the soil, following the instructions on
the package. Most slow-release fertilizers
last for a limited period, so reapply as
specified. Don’t use non-ericaceous
fertilizers, as these could harm your plants.
WATER AND MULCH
Because tap water often tends
to be alkaline, use rainwater to
water the plant thoroughly. Then place
a mulch of bark chippings over the soil
to help retain moisture. Water daily with
rainwater. The berries will ripen over a
few weeks; pick as required.
302 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Grow Thai herbs and spices
Deliciously spicy, Thai and other Asian cooking relies on three key ingredients: the seeds and leaves of
cilantro, lemon grass, with its citrus-flavored stalks, and hot ginger roots. Instead of buying them at the
supermarket, grow these easy, tender plants at home on a windowsill, or in the garden in summer.
Cilantro
Grow this annual herb in a sunny spot
for its lemony seeds and spicy leaves,
which add a fresh taste to dishes.
WHEN TO PLANT
Spring
AT ITS BEST
Spring to autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
Cilantro seeds or plug plants
Modular seed tray
Seed soil
Deep container
Broken clay pot pieces
Soil-based potting mix
Watering can with fine rose
SOW AND PLANT UP
Fill a modular seed tray
with seed soil. Scatter seed
on the surface, cover with a little
soil, and water. Keep in a sunny
spot and water frequently. Thin
congested seedlings once they
have a few leaves. Cilantro plants
have long roots, so when the
seedlings are growing well, line
the base of a deep container
with clay pieces, and fill it with
soil-based potting mix.
CARE FOR YOUR PLANTS
Plant up the cilantro, and
keep it well watered;
drought stress will cause plants
to go to seed. Remove any flower
stems immediately. Cut the stems
and leaves when mature; a new
set may then grow, giving a second
crop. Alternatively, allow plants to
go to seed, put the cut seedheads
in a paper bag, and hang them
upside down until the seeds drop.
Lemon grass
The stems of this tender aromatic herb have a tangy lemon taste. Fresh stems,
bought from specialist Asian grocery stores and supermarkets, root easily to create
new plants. Select firm stems that have a woody, light brown base.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO PLANT
Spring
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
ROOT THE STEMS
Buy fresh lemon grass stems and
put the bulbous ends in a jar
of water. Stand
them on a bright
windowsill for
a few weeks
until a good
root system
has developed.
Change the
water weekly.
Fresh lemon grass stems
Glass or jar of water
Sharp knife
3½in (8cm) plastic pots
Soil-based potting mix
Liquid houseplant fertilizer
Decorative indoor planter
TRIM AND PLANT
Fill small pots with soil-based
potting mix. Trim off the top of
each stem and
pot the young
plants up. Water
well, and keep on
a warm, sunny
windowsill, or in
a greenhouse.
a Leafy house plant
As well as spicing up Asian dishes, lemon grass
makes a beautiful house plant. The stems bulk
up quickly, ready for harvest.
AFTERCARE
Water well during summer, and
apply a liquid fertilizer every two
weeks. Pot
them on into
larger pots as
they grow. In
winter, keep the
soil just moist.
To harvest, cut
the stems close
to the roots.
Ginger
Ginger plants grow up to 3 ft (1 m) tall
and make stunning house plants, as well
as providing tasty edible roots that you
can use fresh or freeze. It is not hardy
so grow it indoors, except in summer.
PLANT ON
YOU WILL NEED
Ginger roots
3½in (8cm) plastic pots
Soil-based potting mix
Large pot
Liquid fertilizer
PREPARE THE POT
Choose a ginger root with some
pale knobbly eyes, which will grow
into shoots. Fill a pot with potting mix and
plant the ginger, just covering the eyes.
Water well, and keep in a light spot.
When shoots appear, move it out
of direct sunlight, and repot the
plant as it grows. In summer, stand it
outside and feed fortnightly with liquid
fertilizer. In autumn, allow it to dry out and
the foliage to die back. Harvest the roots
but keep a piece to grow again next spring.
304 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Grow citrus fruit
Citrus prefer to grow outdoors in the summer, and only need frostfree conditions to see them through the winter. With a little care,
they flower and fruit well, and make beautiful patio plants.
Lemon tree from a pip
Growing lemon trees from pips is fun, especially for children, and although
they flower as quite young plants, it takes a number of years before they fruit.
In the meantime, they make attractive, highly fragrant, house and patio plants.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
Lemon pips
Pots
Seed potting mix
Soil-based potting mix
POT ON
Once the young
seedlings are growing
well, remove them from their
pots and carefully tease their
roots apart. Pot them on
individually into their own
small pots in soil-based potting
mix, and water them in well.
PREPARE TO PLANT
Cut open a lemon, remove the pips, and dry
them. Plant several pips per pot, ½ in (1 cm)
deep in seed potting mix. Water them in and put
the pots in a warm spot. Keep them well watered.
AFTERCARE
Place pots
in a sunny
spot outside and keep
well watered. Grow in
a cool room indoors,
or in a greenhouse,
over winter; place
outside in summer
and early fall until
the first frosts are
forecast. Water with
rainwater, if possible,
and watch out for
aphids, scale insects,
and mealy bugs.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Citrus options
Citrus have a fabulous variety of fruit color and texture, and many of these
beautiful plants can be grown fairly easily. Some may survive the winter
outdoors in milder areas, but they grow best with a little protection.
GROWING AND CARE
Citrus plants need plenty of water during spring and summer, less during winter.
Use rainwater where possible, particularly in hard water areas. Feed with a specially
formulated citrus fertilizer throughout the growing season. Indoors, mist daily with
rainwater to keep humidity high and to help ward off red spider mite. A little warmth
in late winter and spring will encourage the citrus to flower, and then, hopefully, fruit.
1 Calamondin orange, x Citrofortunella microcarpa, is a kumquat–orange hybrid, and is
one of the easiest citrus to grow indoors. It produces scented flowers all year round and
has sour fruit. 2 Kaffir lime, Citrus hystrix, is most often grown for its fragrant leaves,
an essential ingredient in Thai cooking, but it also bears knobbly, very sour fruit. 3 Key
lime, Citrus aurantifolia, with its thin skin and delicious flavor, is the lime commonly used
to make daiquiris and margaritas. 4 Kumquat, Fortunella japonica, is one of the most
attractive and easiest of all citrus to grow. It is hardy in most areas and flowers in summer.
o Perfect for patios
This pretty lemon tree, like other citrus fruits, is
happiest outside in summer, and makes a great
patio feature. Just bring it indoors for the winter.
305
306 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Grow nuts
Nuts are attractive trees, and produce tasty autumn treats that are expensive to buy in the stores.
They grow well in cool climates, and require just a little attention once planted. Almonds and hazels
are the smallest of the nut trees, and both are very easy to grow in the garden.
Almonds
In addition to producing nuts in autumn,
almonds show a beautiful display of
pale pink blossom in spring.
WHEN TO PLANT
Late autumn
AT THEIR BEST
Spring and late summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Almond tree
Spade
Stake
Tree tie
Clippers
Pruning saw
SITE AND
PLANTING
Choose an open,
sunny spot with deep, fertile,
well-drained soil. Avoid
frost pockets because
almonds flower in spring
and their blooms are easily
damaged. Plant and stake
the tree (see pp.178–179 for
planting instructions). If your
tree is not self-pollinating,
you will need to plant two.
PRUNE AND
HARVEST
Prune your almond
trees to keep a good,
open shape, but only in
summer, because they are
susceptible to silver leaf
disease (see p.432). Once
the hulls have cracked
open, harvest the nuts by
knocking them from the
tree. Slit the hulls, remove
the nuts, and dry them.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Hazel and cobnuts
Hazels are round, hard, chewy nuts that commonly grow in
hedgerows. Cobnuts are a slightly elongated, cultivated form of
hazel, and are particularly good for eating. Both grow well in a
range of conditions, and produce nuts from a young age.
WHEN TO PLANT
Late autumn or spring
AT THEIR BEST
Late summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Hazelnut plant
Spade
Stake
Tree tie
Organic matter for mulch
SITE AND
PLANTING
Hazels prefer
well-drained soil and a
position in full sun or partial
shade. Plant two hazel
trees in your garden to
guarantee cross-pollination
and a good crop of nuts.
Plant bare-root plants in
late autumn; pot-grown
ones in spring. Plant and
stake the tree (see pp.178–
179 for planting instructions).
After planting, water well,
and apply a layer of mulch.
PRUNE AND HARVEST
Water the tree regularly for the first year. Once
the plant is established and has been growing
for at least two years, prune the strongest, upright
stems to the ground to encourage flowering side shoots.
Hazelnuts can be harvested young and eaten fresh
and green, or left to turn brown on the plant, and
then harvested and stored.
Home-grown hazel pea sticks
In addition to nuts, hazel produces woody stems that are particularly useful in the
garden. Pea sticks (as they are known) make great supports for peas, which is
how they got their name, as well as for annual climbing flowers and a range of
other tall vegetables. Longer hazel poles can be made into rustic obelisks and
sturdy frames for runner beans.
WHEN TO START
Winter
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
A mature hazel plant
Pruning tool, such as loppers or
a pruning saw
GROW PEA STICKS
Allow your hazel tree to grow
unpruned for three or four years.
The most useful pea sticks are those
stems with shrubby, branching growth,
which will be well developed on a mature
plant. Then, in winter, simply thin out your
hazel plant, take the stems you need, and
leave the rest to grow and produce nuts.
Store the stems in a cool, airy place until
you need them in late spring or summer.
GROW HAZEL POLES
For long, straight poles cut all the
stems of an established hazel plant
to the ground in winter (see also p.230).
New growth forms poles, which will be
ready to harvest in five years. Grow
several plants to get a regular harvest.
307
Create a parterre
A parterre is a pattern of box or other evergreen hedging, with the areas in between filled with other
plants. Traditionally, the hedging would be the permanent structure, and the infill made up of temporary
plants, such as bedding or vegetables. However, they also make beautiful herb beds, as shown here.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
4 hours for the small
parterre, measuring 3ft
(1m) x 4ft (1.2m), above.
YOU WILL NEED
Small box plants,
Buxus sempervirens
‘Suffruticosa’
1 bay tree, Laurus nobilis
PREPARE THE SOIL
Shrubby herbs, such
as rosemary, lavender,
curry plant, cotton
lavender, and thyme
—3 plants per segment
Spade
Grit
Organic matter
Rake
Landscape fabric
Measuring tape
Chalk
Short stakes or pegs
Sharp knife
Slate chippings
First, decide on the
design you want and
sketch it on paper—this
parterre is a simple cross
pattern. Then clear the area
of grass and weeds, and
add organic matter, such as
well-rotted manure or garden
compost, to improve the soil’s
structure. Silver-leaved herbs
like well-drained soil, so if
yours is heavy, add plenty
of grit to help water drain
away. Level the area carefully
with a rake.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
MARK OUT A
HEDGING PLAN
LAY AND SECURE
LANDSCAPE
FABRIC
Use a tape measure
and chalk to mark out your
pattern. Space the hedging
plants at 8in (20cm)
intervals; insert short stakes
to mark their positions. The
plants will quickly spread to
form a dense hedge.
The entire area should be
covered in a good quality
landscape fabric to suppress
weeds and keep moisture
in. Pin down the edges
securely or slide them
under the existing turf.
PLANT UP
With a sharp knife,
cut a cross in the
landscape fabric at each
planting point. Make small
planting holes. Insert the
box plants and firm them
in. Then fold the landscape
fabric back around the
stem of the plants.
ARRANGE HERBS FOR
THE FINAL DESIGN
Place your selected herbs,
while still in their pots, in the gaps
between the hedging plants, and
arrange them until they look right.
Put the bay tree in its terracotta
pot at the center of your parterre
to create a focal point.
APPLY A LAYER OF
SLATE CHIPPINGS
Plant the herbs, water
them, and then cover the
whole parterre in a layer of
slate chippings. This will hide
the landscape fabric and further
help seal in moisture. Other
mulching materials can be
used, such as gravel.
TOP TIP: ENCOURAGE BUSHY GROWTH
Allow the box plants to grow
a little taller than their required
height, but nip off the tips of
the side shoots to encourage
bushy growth. When the plants
are tall enough, set a line of
string at the right height and clip
along the hedge with shears.
309
SELECTIONS >>
310 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Essential kitchen herbs
Herbs are easy to grow, look good, taste and smell amazing, and many
of them are magnets for bees and butterflies. Most take up little space—
a trough or a sink will fit a selection of the most useful—and planted up
in this way, you can keep them within arms’ reach of the kitchen door. You
can freeze or dry them, and even grow them on a windowsill indoors during
winter. Just keep picking the leaves to keep your plants compact and bushy.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Basil; hs18 in (45 cm) AEH11–01
2 Apple mint; hs28 in (70 cm) Be H9–5
3 Thyme;
h5 in (12 cm) s30 in (75 cm) Ad H9–1 4 Flat-leaved parsley; hs12 in (30 cm) BE H9–1
5 Golden oregano; hs12 in (30 cm) Ad H10–2
(40 cm) BE H12–1
cm) Ad H10–1
6 Variegated lemon balm; h24 in (60 cm) s16 in
7 Chives; hs12 in (30 cm) Be H12–1
9 Rosemary; hs4 ft (1.2 m) Ad H12–8
H8–1 q Fennel; h6 ft (2 m) s18 in (45 cm) Ae H9–6
8 Cilantro; h16 in (40 cm) s12 in (30
0 Variegated sage; hs3 ft (1 m) Ad
311
SELECTIONS >>
<<
312 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Grow a basket of crops
Hang a basket brimming with leafy herbs and succulent tomatoes close
to your kitchen door for easy access to fresh ingredients. With a sprinkling
of annual flowers, this pretty mix is a match for any bedding design, and
the herbs emit a wonderful scent at just the right height for you to enjoy.
WHEN TO START
Mid- to late spring
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Large hanging basket with liner
Soil-based potting mix, combined
50:50 with multi-purpose potting mix
PREPARE THE BASKET
Buy the largest basket you can find,
ideally with an integrated liner—because
tomatoes are greedy feeders and need lots of
water, they may not be as successful in a small
basket that holds a limited amount of soil,
water, and food. Line the base of the basket
with a sheet of plastic to create a reservoir at
the bottom. Stand the plants in a tray of water
for 30 minutes until the top of the soil is moist.
Remove, and leave them to drain.
Slow-release granular fertilizer
Plastic bags
Gravel mulch
Liquid tomato fertilizer
Tomato plants
Violas and nasturtiums
Herbs; those used here are:
Basil ‘Magic Mountain’
Chives
Flat-leaved parsley
Thyme
PLANT THE SIDES
Half-fill the basket with potting mix.
Cut two or three crosses in the liner
above the soil. Tip a thyme plant from its pot
and wrap the leaves in a plastic bag. Carefully
push the bag from the inside out through a slit,
so the root ball is resting on the soil. Repeat
with the other thymes.
Basket care p
Never allow your basket of tomatoes to dry out
or the fruits may split (see p.273). Remove faded
flowers to encourage more to form.
MIX IN FERTILIZER
Fill in around the thyme root balls
with soil mixed with slow-release
fertilizer. Top up the basket with more soil
to 4 in (10 cm) from the rim.
ADD THE PLANTS
Set out your plants in their pots to
check that they fit. Then plant them
up at the same level they were at in their
pots, with the tomato plants at the edge
and the basil in the middle of the basket.
WATER DAILY
Add a gravel mulch. Hang the basket
on a strong bracket (see p.130) in a
sunny spot. Water daily and feed every
week with a tomato fertilizer. Harvest
leaves from the herbs as you need them,
and pick the tomatoes when they are ripe.
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Herb circle
Herbs make an inspiring feature when grown together, and tend to
like similar conditions. Soften an area of hard landscaping by allowing
space for a circle of these colorful, low-growing, culinary plants.
LIGHTEN THE SOIL
Most herbs prefer to grow in
well-drained soil, so in all but the
lightest soils it is important to dig in plenty
of horticultural grit before planting. Do not
add to individual planting holes, but dig it
in thoroughly over the whole area.
1
6
5
7
2
4
3
WHEN TO PLANT
Spring
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
4 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Horticultural grit
Spade
Trowel
3 small terracotta pots
A selection of herbs, for example:
ADD PLANTS
Lay out the herbs before planting.
Place three of each plant in a
triangle so that they will form the “wedges”
of the circle once they have grown
together. Plant the mint in individual
terracotta or plastic pots to contain the
roots, and sink these into the soil.
AFTERCARE
Water the herbs in well after
planting and keep them watered
while they settle in. All plants are hardy
and can be left in the bed, but the parsley
and violas will need refreshing with new
plants every year or two.
TOP TIP: PROMOTE NEW GROWTH
1. Chives and fennel (here
planted in a central pot)
2. Oregano
3. Parsley
4. Violas (as a decorative filler)
5. Lemon balm
6. Mint
7. Thyme (also in pot)
Harvesting and pruning are the same
job when you are growing herbs. Nip
out the tips of the plants regularly to
use in the kitchen, and to help keep
the plants bushy and compact.
315
316 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Enjoy southern fruits
Juicy peaches and fresh figs in cream are irresistible, and you can grow these delicious fruits at home.
Just plant them against a sheltered, south-facing wall and they should produce plenty of fruit.
Figs for a wall
Figs are handsome plants but their roots must be restricted if they are to fruit well.
Plant them in a sheltered spot, protect the young figs over winter, and feed in
spring with a granular fertilizer and a dose of high-potash fertilizer in late summer.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO PLANT
Winter
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours to plant; 1 hour to prune
DIG A PIT
To restrict the fig’s roots, dig a pit
2 ft (60 cm) square and deep, next
to the wall. Line the sides with paving
stones, but not the base. Add a 10 in
(25 cm) layer of rubble to the base for
drainage, and top up with garden soil.
Two-year-old pot-grown fig tree
Paving stones
Rubble, e.g, broken bricks
Wires, vine eyes, and twine
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Granular tree and high-potash
fertilizers
Clippers
PLANT THE FIG
Fix horizontal wires to the wall (see
p.212). Water the tree, then plant it
in the center of the pit at the same depth
it was in its pot. Firm in and water well.
Apply a mulch of organic matter, keeping it
clear of the stem. Tie the side stems to the
wires, and remove any that grow toward
or away from the wall. Water regularly for
the first year, and in dry periods thereafter.
AFTERCARE AND HARVEST
In late spring the tree will produce
some figs; then, in late summer,
you will see a second crop of embryo
fruits. In late autumn remove fruits larger
than a pea because they tend to rot over
winter, and protect the embryos against
frost with fleece; these will ripen the next
summer. Trim the tree in summer to
encourage more fruit (see Top Tip, right).
TOP TIP: PRUNING FIGS
In the spring after planting, cut back
the main stem to encourage side
shoots. The following spring, cut back
these new stems by half, and remove
weak growth. Cut over-long branches
to 2 in (5 cm) to promote fresh growth.
o i Cutting back
Prune out stems
that block light from
fruits (left). In
summer, pinch out
new shoots so five
leaves remain on
each stem (below).
<<
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Peach fan
For a good crop of peaches, grow a fan-shaped tree against a warm wall, and
protect the flowers from spring frosts. Mulch around the base of the tree in early
spring with well-rotted organic matter, and feed with granular fertilizer. Enrich sandy
soil with plenty of organic matter to help retain moisture and nutrients.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO PLANT
Late autumn
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours to plant; 1 hour to prune
Fan-trained peach tree
Wires and vine eyes
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Bamboo canes
Granular shrub and tree fertilizer
Garden twine
Clippers
BUY AND PLANT
TOP TIP: THIN OUT FRUIT
Buy a partially trained two- or
three-year-old fan, and check that
it has eight branches. Fix wires to the wall
(see p.212) and tie canes in a fan shape
to the wires. Plant the peach 18 in (45 cm)
from the wall and lean it toward the cane
fan. Tie the stems, with four on each side,
to the canes with twine.
Peaches form in clusters and should
be thinned to allow large fruit to form.
When hazelnut-sized, remove fruit
growing toward the wall, and thin
to one per cluster. A few weeks later,
thin to one fruit every 6 in (15 cm).
PROTECT FROM FROST
Water the tree regularly for the first year,
and during dry spells thereafter. Blossoms
appear in early spring and must be protected from
frost. Attach a roll of fleece to the top of the wall.
Secure a few long canes just in front of the tree,
and roll the fleece down over the canes to cover
the blossoms. Lift the screen after each frost to
allow insects in to pollinate the flowers.
PRUNE FOR FRUIT
In early spring, remove stems
that grow toward or away from
the wall. Then look for flowering stems,
and select one strong side shoot at the
base and another farther up the same
stem. Tie in these two new shoots to a
cane or wire, and cut back all other side
shoots along the stem to one leaf.
PRUNE AFTER FRUITING
After the flowering stem has
produced fruit in summer, cut it
back to the new shoot at its base, or if
this failed, to the shoot farther up. Also
shorten overlapping stems and remove
congested or dead wood. Ripe fruit is soft
and gives slightly when pressed gently
near the stalk. Eat as soon as possible.
317
318 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Train fruit trees
If you think your garden is too small for a fruit tree, you may be
wrong. Fruit trees are some of the most amenable plants; they can
be trained along walls and fences, taking up very little space, and
look beautiful and even fruit better when grown in this way.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO START
Winter
AT ITS BEST
Spring and autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
5 hours
Several bare-root cordon apple or
pear trees
Bamboo canes
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Spade
Wire, vine eyes, and twine
Mulch
MEASURE PLANTING DISTANCES
Fix horizontal wires to the fence or
wall at 24 in (60 cm) intervals (see
pp.212–213). Cordons can be planted as
close together as 12 in (30 cm), depending
on the effect you wish to create. Decide
on your spacing, and measure along the
wall or fence, marking each planting spot
with a cane. Dig holes large enough to
accommodate the root balls easily.
PLANT AND
TRIM ROOTS
ATTACH TREES
TO CANES
Plant the cordon
at an angle of about 45°
degrees. Examine the roots
of each plant and cut off
any that are large or woody,
to encourage new feeding
roots, and thin those above
the soil. Make sure the
graft union (scar on the
stem) is above the surface.
Firm in the soil
around the roots with your
foot. Push the canes into
the soil at the same angle
as the trees. Tie the cordons
to the canes, and tie the
canes to the horizontal
wires. Make sure all of
your plants are securely
fastened and aligned.
APPLY MULCH
Water the trees well
after planting and
apply a mulch of chipped
bark, keeping it clear of the
stems, to retain moisture
and suppress weeds. Water
the trees regularly during
their first year. Apply a tree
and shrub granular fertilizer
around the trees every
spring, and replenish the
mulch afterward.
TOP TIP: ROUTINE PRUNING
Remove the flowers
the first year after
planting to encourage
strong roots. Prune
cordons each year in
late summer. Shorten
all woody sideshoots
to within a few leaves
of the stem to help
promote fruiting spurs.
320 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
>>
Plant a tiny orchard
Fruit trees work hard for their keep, providing a strong winter outline, a spring show of beautiful
blossoms, and a bountiful harvest in summer and autumn. They need little care once established and are
well suited to small- and medium-sized gardens, especially when they are grown on dwarfing rootstocks.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO START
Late autumn
AT THEIR BEST
Summer to autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
Fruit tree or trees
Spade
Well-rotted organic
matter, such as
manure
Mulch
Stake
Tree tie
Apples and pears
These fruit bowl regulars make characterful garden trees
and their crop is unlikely to go to waste in most households.
As they age, the trees take on a wonderfully gnarled
appearance, which sets off their spring blossoms perfectly.
CHOOSING VARIETIES
Depending on the variety you
choose, apples and pears ripen
from late July to late autumn.
You can choose pears with a
soft, buttery flesh or a more
solid texture. The taste
of apples varies enormously
between varieties, so read
descriptions before buying.
If you want a tiny apple tree
go for one on M27 rootstock.
For a tree about 10 ft (3 m)
high, choose MM106. Pears
grown on Quince A rootstock
will reach 10–20 ft (3–6 m).
Beauty in age p
Apple trees become twisted and
more distinctive over the years.
Keep within bounds p
Choose a pear tree that has been
grafted onto a dwarfing rootstock.
PLANTING AND CARE
Autumn and winter are the best times to plant apples and pears.
Bare-root trees become available at this time of the year, and they
are less expensive and establish just as quickly as pot-grown trees.
Plant bare-root types as soon as you can after receiving them.
Dig over the area around the planting hole and add some organic
matter. Plant at the same level as the trees were in the field (look
for the dark stain on the stem). Firm in well. Water in, then insert
a stake (see p.179) and tie the tree to it. Mulch with bark chippings
or compost and keep well watered for the first two years.
Cherries and plums
Luscious and juicy, cherries and plums taste of summer.
Both are grown as standard trees, but cherries can also
be trained along a warm, sheltered wall.
CHOOSING VARIETIES
You can grow sweet or sour cherries. Sweet are the best for eating
from the tree and sour are ideal for cooking and jam-making.
Cherries can grow into large trees, so select one grown on dwarfing
rootstocks—Colt or Giselle 5—and a self-fertile cultivar if you want
only one tree. Some varieties of plum are particularly good for
eating, some are better for cooking, and others are dual purpose.
Simply the best p
Plums can be enjoyed straight from the tree
or cooked in delicious pies, jams, and puddings.
PLANTING AND CARE
Plums and cherries should be planted in autumn or winter, much
like apples and pears. Once they are established and fruiting, it
is important to protect cherries from birds, or they will quickly
finish off the crop. A net thrown over the tree will provide
some protection, but for best results, grow them in a specially
constructed fruit cage. Plums and cherries should always be
pruned in summer, not winter, because they are susceptible to
silver leaf disease (see p.432), which is more prevalent in winter.
o Cherry ripe
Grow cherries for their eye-catching, sweet, and juicy
summer fruit, as well as their attractive spring blossoms.
Pruning tips
All fruit trees fare better if they are regularly pruned. Pruning
encourages the tree to produce the best fruiting wood, and
removes any growth that may lead to problems.
WHEN TO PRUNE
Prune apple and pear trees in winter, and cherry and plum
trees in summer. Start by removing any growth that is dead
or diseased, or that is crossing the center of the tree: you want
an open center to increase air flow and to allow sunlight in.
It is important to create a main framework in the first few years,
and to prune back to that. You can then shorten new stems by
about one third to an outward-facing bud, and shorten the
side-growths that grow from them to about five buds.
a Remove branches
Cut back branches that are growing
in toward the center of the tree as
these will reduce airflow and light,
and may lead to disease problems.
a Spur pruning
Shortening the side shoots creates
“spurs,” which are lengths of
thickened wood that are more likely
to produce flower buds and fruit.
Wildlife
Gardening
Birds, small creatures, and insects not only bring your
garden to life, many are beneficial to plants too. Insects
help pollinate flowers, while frogs and toads eat slugs, and
thrushes love to feast on snails and worms. To lure these
allies into your garden, provide food—berries and fruit for
birds and nectar-rich flowers for insects—and plenty of fresh
water to drink. In addition to wildlife-friendly planting ideas
for ponds and gardens, this chapter also includes lots of
advice on composting.
324 WILDLIFE GARDENING
>>
Make a wildlife pond
Providing the perfect home for some of the most decorative foliage and flowering plants, a pond also
mirrors the sky, reflecting light into the garden. A wildlife pond is especially beautiful, and will also
attract a whole host of beneficial animals, birds, and insects. Make one with sloping sides, to allow easy
access for creatures to come and go, and leafy edges that offer habitats and cover. Site your pond in an
open area, not too near overhanging trees because decaying autumn leaves sully the water.
WHEN TO START
Late winter or early spring
AT ITS BEST
Spring to early autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
2–3 days
YOU WILL NEED
Hose
Spade
Long length of wood
Spirit level
Old carpet or pond underlay
Butyl pond liner (see Step 1 for
quantities)
Sharp knife
Large stones
Mortar
Trowel
Pond plants
Aquatic soil
Pond baskets
Gravel
LEVEL
It is essential that the top
edges of the pond are level
all the way round, or water will
drain out unevenly. Place a spirit
level on a straight plank of wood
and test the level in six or seven
different places, building up or
removing soil as necessary.
MARK OUT THE POND
Using a hose, mark out the pond
with sweeping curves for a natural
effect. Calculate the area of liner you will
need by adding twice the total depth (D),
plus 18 in (45 cm) extra, to the length (L).
Then add twice the depth (D), plus 18 in
(45 cm) extra, to the width (W), and
multiply the two answers (see also Step
2 below): (2xD+18 in+L) x (2xD+18 in+W).
DIG DOWN
Dig out the whole area
of the pond to a depth of
18 in (45 cm), and angle the sides
so that they slope slightly. Leave
a 12–18 in (30–45 cm) wide shelf
around the sides at this depth.
Then dig out a central area 3 ft
(1 m) deep, and an adjacent area,
about 30 in (75 cm) deep, creating
two deeper areas to keep plants
and wildlife frost-free in winter.
LINE THE BASE
Smooth the edges, and
remove large or sharp
stones from the sides and
base. Line the pond with old
carpet or a special pond
underlay. Do not use sand
because it falls away from the
sides and will fill up the hole.
326 WILDLIFE GARDENING
>>
FILL WITH WATER
LINE WITH BUTYL
Fold the liner in neat
pleats over the shelf
and top edges, and check
that it is bedded into the
bottom of the pond. Top up
with more water, which will
force the liner against the
shelf and sides.
Center the liner over
the hole and push
it down in the middle,
allowing pleats to form
against the sides and base.
Fill the deepest part with
water; the weight will pull
the liner into place.
EDGE WITH TURF
OR STONES
TRIM TO FIT
As you fill the pond,
move around so
that the liner is pulled
evenly into the hole. When
the pond is full, trim the
liner with a sharp knife,
leaving up to 18 in (45 cm)
excess around the edges.
PLACE THE STONES
When positioning the
stones, make sure
that they do not overhang
the edge by more than 2 in
(5 cm). This will prevent
them from tipping up and
both you and the stones
falling into the water when
you walk on the edge.
FINISH OFF
Place rocks in the water
but protect the liner
from damage by placing them on
cushions of folded plastic sacks or
spare rolled-up liner. Ensure the
rocks are stable, but do not mortar
them in. The pond is now ready
to plant. Use the shelves around
the sides for marginal plants, and
the deeper areas for submerged
aquatics, such as water lilies
(see Top Tip, right).
To turf up to the
edges, leave 10 in (25 cm)
of excess liner and butt the
turves up to it. Or add
stones by mortaring them
onto the liner, making sure
no cement falls in the
water in the process.
TOP TIP: CHOOSING POND PLANTS
There are four main types of pond plant; deep-water aquatics,
oxygenators, marginals, and bog plants. Water lilies are
deep-water aquatics and sit on the bottom of the pond,
although some will grow in shallow water. Check the depth
required on the label (measured from the pot surface) and
raise them up on
bricks as required.
Oxygenators are
essential plants that
help keep the water
clear (see Top Tip,
opposite).
Marginals, such as
the marsh marigold,
Caltha palustris (right),
prefer the shallows
around the edge of
the pond, and will be
happiest on the shelf
(see Step 2, p.324).
Site bog plants in the
damp area around the
pond—not in the water
(see pp.330–331).
<<
WILDLIFE GARDENING
Plant up your water feature
Choose a variety of different plants for your pond to establish a natural balance that will help keep
the water clear, and provide the best habitat for plants and wildlife. All submerged pond plants can
be planted up in the same way, and should be divided and repotted every two or three years.
WHEN TO PLANT
Mid- to late spring
TOP TIP: PLANTING OXYGENATORS
AT THEIR BEST
Summer
These vital plants release oxygen, absorb
nutrients, and obscure light, helping to
keep the water clean and clear of green
algae. Establish them in baskets on the
pond shelves, before sinking them to the
bottom. Avoid invasive types, like parrot’s
feather, Myriophyllum aquaticum, and
curly waterweed, Lagarosiphon major.
Good oxygenators to choose include:
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes per plant
YOU WILL NEED
Aquatic plant basket or finenetted pond bag
Aquatic soil
Trowel
Water lily or pond plant
Pea gravel
FILL A BASKET
Choose an aquatic pond basket that
has small holes in the sides to stop
the soil from leaking out into the water.
Place a layer of aquatic soil in the bottom.
Do not use garden soil because it may
contain nutrients that encourage algae.
ADD THE PLANT
Carefully remove the water lily or
pond plant from its original pot and
place it in the center of the basket at the
same level. Fill in around the plant with
more aquatic soil, firming it down with
your fingertips as you go.
Water moss, Fontinalis antipyretica
Hornwort, Ceratophyllum demersum
Curled pondweed, Potamogeton crispus
Hart’s pennyroyal, Mentha cervina
MULCH WITH GRAVEL
Check the plant carefully, and clean
off any duckweed (small round
leaves) or algae from the stems and
leaves. To stabilize the soil surface, add
a layer of pea gravel; rinse it first several
times to remove any impurities or dirt.
327
328 WILDLIFE GARDENING
>>
Design a fishpond
Fish bring a pond to life (right), complementing the planting with
color and movement, but before buying, check that your feature is
wide and deep enough to create a happy home for them. A small
waterfall increases oxygen levels, but site it away from water lilies.
7
1
6
4
5
3
2
WHEN TO PLANT
Mid- to late spring
AT ITS BEST
Early summer to early autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 day
YOU WILL NEED
Aquatic soil
Aquatic planting baskets
1. Lobelia ‘Hadspen Purple’
2. Pickerel weed, Pontederia cordata
3. Golden club, Orontium aquaticum
4. Water lily, Nymphaea ‘Albida’
5. Reed sweet-grass, Glyceria
maxima var. variegata
6. Arum lily, Zantedeschia aethiopica
7. Variegated hosta
SIZE MATTERS
Make sure that your pond has a
water surface area of 3 square feet
(1 meter) for each small fish you plan
to keep, and a depth of at least 30 in
(75 cm), which will provide an ice-free
place for them in winter.
CHOOSE PLANTS
Include mixed plantings in your pond
to create a beautiful and healthy
environment for both fish and plants.
Choose water lilies to partially cover the
surface, and leafy marginals that sit just
below the water at the pond edges. Also
add some oxygenators (see p.327), which
help keep the water clear. Together, these
regulate the water temperature on hot days
and their roots take up fish waste matter,
helping maintain the biological balance. In
addition to those featured in this pond, try
the tough plants opposite in your pool.
PLANT YOUR POND
Fish root around plants for food,
and dig them up if they are not
planted carefully. Plant in aquatic baskets
(see p.327) and cover the soil surface
with small pebbles to keep the fish at
bay. Water lilies and other floating foliage
plants are essential, providing the fish
with shade and hiding them from
predators, such as herons.
Fish-friendly planting
The best fish for small ponds are common goldfish and shubunkins, while koi
carp require larger pools and special filters. All fish feed on pond plants, so
choose tough types that will regenerate easily when munched.
INTRODUCE FISH
Fish are sensitive to changes in
temperature, so acclimatize them
to their new pond. Float the bag in which
you bought them on the water and open
the top to allow more air inside. After
about 20 minutes, gently release the fish
into the pond. Don’t worry if fish hide for
a few days, they will soon appear when
they have adjusted to their new home.
1 Spring-flowering marsh marigold,
Caltha palustris; plant at water level,
H24 in (60 cm) s18 in (45 cm)
2 Sweet flag, Acorus calamus
‘Argenteostriatus’; forms a grassy
foliage effect; plant 8 in (20 cm)
below water level, h30 in (75 cm)
s24 in (60 cm) 3 Flowering rush,
Butomus umbellatus, has delicate
flowers on long stems; plant 2–6 in
(5–15 cm) below water level, H3ft
(1m) sunlimited 4 Japanese
iris, Iris laevigata; plant at 4–6 in
(10–15 cm) below water level, H30 in
(75 cm) s3ft (1m)
330 WILDLIFE GARDENING
>>
Create a beautiful bog garden
Some of the most fabulous plants will only grow in soil that is permanently moist, and even if you don’t
have a boggy area in your garden, it is quite easy to create one. This type of planting looks particularly
natural next to ponds or among trees, but can be equally effective in any part of the garden.
WHEN TO START
Anytime
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 days
YOU WILL NEED
Garden hose
Pond liner
Bricks
Gravel
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure or garden compost
Topsoil
Perforated hose
Scissors
Rake
Fork
Spade
Bog plants
DIG OUT BORDER
Next to your pond or other suitable
area, use a garden hose to make a
curved and natural outline for your bog
garden. Dig it out to a depth of about 24in
(60cm) and keep the soil.
<<
WILDLIFE GARDENING
PERFORATE LINER
WITH FORK
PLACE LINER AND
STABILIZE
Although you want
the soil in your bog garden
to be moist, it should not
be completely saturated
or it will lack oxygen, which
is vital for healthy plant
roots. To provide some
drainage, pierce the liner
with a garden fork at 3 ft
(1 m) intervals.
Lay the liner in the
hole and push it into the
corners. To hold it in place,
overlap the edges of the
hole with at least 12 in
(30 cm) of liner, and weigh
it down with bricks. Make
sure the liner is not pulled
tight or else it could rip
when filled.
TRIM EDGE OF
LINER
COVER BASE WITH
GRAVEL
Fill the bog garden
with the soil you excavated
when digging the hole,
together with some
well-rotted organic matter,
and press it down. This will
settle the liner into its final
position. Use sharp scissors
to cut any visible excess
liner from around the edges.
To ensure that the
drainage holes do not
become blocked over time,
causing the soil in your bog
garden to stagnate, cover
the liner with a layer of
gravel or coarse grit. A
depth of about 3 in (8 cm)
thick should be sufficient.
PLACE PERFORATED
HOSE AROUND
PERIMETER
A perforated hose, which allows
water to seep out slowly, will
make it easier to keep your bog
garden wet during dry periods.
Sink it into the soil all the way
around the inside edge of the
bog garden, leaving just the hose
attachment above ground. You
can then simply attach a garden
hose to it when necessary.
Since the hose attachment will
eventually be hidden by plants,
remember to mark its position
in the garden.
PLANT UP
Lay your bog plants out in their pots, and when you are
happy with the design, plant them so that they are at the
same level as in their pots, or slightly deeper. Mulch with organic
matter. Keep well watered until the plants are fully established.
331
SELECTIONS >>
332 WILDLIFE GARDENING
>>
Striking bog plants
The plants that thrive in boggy conditions are as varied and colorful as
any other group, and there are many attractive effects you can create by
choosing carefully. Several have impressive and boldly shaped foliage for
maximum drama, including giant rhubarblike Gunnera, hand-shaped
Rodgersia, and golden-leaved Carex. Others, such as Iris sibirica and Primula
japonica, bring a more refined and delicate beauty to your bog garden.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
WILDLIFE GARDENING
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Arum lily, Zantedeschia aethiopica; hs36 in (90 cm) Ae H10–4
(2 m) s3 ft (1 m) ABe H9–5
H9–3
2 Darmera peltata; h6 ft
3 Carex elata ‘Aurea’; h28 in (70 cm) s18 in (45 cm)ABe
4 Iris sibirica ‘Shirley Pope’; h32 in (80 cm) s18 in (45 cm) ABe H9–1
sambucifolia; hs36 in (90 cm) ABe H8–5
5 Rodgersia
6 Primula japonica ‘Miller’s Crimson’; hs18 in (45 cm)
ABe H8–1 7 Globeflower, Trollius europaeus; h32 in (80 cm) s18 in (45 cm)ABe H8–5
8 Filipendula purpurea; h4 ft (1.2 m) s24 in (60 cm)ABe H9–1 9 Gunnera manicata; h8 ft
(2.5 m) s10 ft (3 m)ABe H12–7
0 Eupatorium purpureum; h6 ft (2 m) s3 ft (1 m)ABe
H9–1 q Ligularia stenocephala ‘The Rocket’; h5 ft (1.5 m) s3 ft (1 m) ABe H8–1
333
SELECTIONS >>
<<
Plant up boggy pots
If you have no space for a bog garden but would like to grow some of the plants that prefer damp soil,
create a container display. Simply plant up a large, nonporous pot—made from glazed earthenware,
synthetics, or galvanized steel—with your favorite plants to perk up a shady patio or poolside.
<<
Planting ideas
WHEN TO PLANT
Late spring
AT ITS BEST
Early to late summer
Large containers are ideal for bog
plants because they hold more soil
and water, and provide the best
conditions for good growth.
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Large, nonporous container
Plastic sack
Gravel
Soil-based potting mix
Well-rotted organic matter
Bog plants; those used here are:
Astilbe ‘Fanal’
Carex ‘Silver Sceptre’
Persicaria microcephala
‘Red Dragon’
PREPARE TO PLANT
Fill the base with 3 in (8 cm) of
gravel, which will prevent soil from
clogging the drainage holes around the
sides and create a water reservoir at
the bottom of the pot. Then add a layer
of soil-based potting mix with some
well-rotted organic matter.
WILDLIFE GARDENING
PLANT CHOICES
LINE THE CONTAINER
Select a large nonporous
container and make sure it has
a drainage hole; drill one if it doesn’t.
Line the container with a thick plastic
sack, such as an old compost bag. With
a kitchen fork, pierce a few small holes
around the sides of the sack, about 2 in
(5 cm) from the bottom.
Any plants that like boggy soil can be
added to a container display, as long
as you match the size of the pot to
your plants. Check plant labels carefully
for heights and spreads. For example,
the gigantic leaves and stems of an
imposing Gunnera manicata will need
a large pot to support them, while a
group of primulas will be happy in a
smaller container. Most bog plants are
fully hardy and can spend the winter
outside, but choose a pot made from
thick material to insulate the roots.
ADD THE PLANTS
With the plants still in their pots,
check that they will sit at least
2 in (5 cm) below the rim of the pot when
planted. Then water the plants, and
remove them from their pots. Place them
on the layer of potting mix, and fill in
around them carefully with more of the
mixed soil and organic matter.
MULCH AND WATER
Firm in the plants, water well, and
add a mulch of organic matter. Set
the container in a partially shaded area, and
water frequently. Reduce watering in winter
to prevent the soil from freezing. In spring,
replace the top 3 in (7 cm) of compost with
fresh material. Add slow-release fertilizer.
a Chic mix
These galvanized metal containers,
filled with white arum lilies, Zantedeschia
aethiopica ‘Crowborough’, and variegated
hostas, H. ‘Great Expectations’, make a
sophisticated duo on a contemporary
terrace. Line the pots with bubble wrap
to insulate the roots in winter.
335
<<
WILDLIFE GARDENING
Create a lush stream-side
Take advantage of permanently moist soil, or areas near streams, to grow some of the many
beautiful plants that associate well with water. Primulas, sedges, and horsetails all look at home
in this environment, and thrive in the damp, humid conditions found there.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT ITS BEST
Spring to summer
1
TIME TO COMPLETE
6
2
3 hours
5
4
YOU WILL NEED
3
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
Spade and pond liner
1. Canna indica
2. Sedge, Carex comans
3. Primula pulverulenta
Bartley hybrids
4. Horsetail, Equisetum hyemale
o Final touches
To make your stream look realistic, disguise
the pond liner and pump tubing with flat stones
or pebbles. These will also create small eddies
and cascades, providing a mellifluous tune to
accompany the colorful planting.
TOP TIP: MAKING THE WATER FLOW
Buy a pump powerful enough to push the
water along the length of your trench. You
will also need a power source (see p.345).
Place a bucket in the hole at the lower end
(top right). Cover the trench and bucket with
pond liner, and cut a hole where it covers
the bucket. Place the pump in the bucket,
and raise it up on bricks so the nozzle is
above the liner (bottom right). Cover with
galvanized wire mesh, and cut a hole for the
water outlet (far right). Attach a long tube to
the outlet and run it along the trench—water
will then trickle from the top to the bottom
of the trench when you turn on the pump.
5. Persicaria microcephala
'Red Dragon'
6. Dryopteris filix-mas
CREATE A STREAM
To make a stream, dig a shallow,
sloping trench with a large hole at
the lower end. Then add a pump (see Top
Tip, below) to move the water.
PREPARE TO PLANT
If the soil is dry, consider creating
a bog garden (see pp.330–331).
Even if your soil is damp, add some
well-rotted organic matter to further
increase its moisture-holding capacity.
PLANTING AND AFTERCARE
Arrange the plants in naturalistic
drifts along the banks in groups
of threes and fives, where possible. Plant
at the same depth as they were in their
original pots. Water in the plants and
mulch with chipped bark to help retain
moisture and suppress weeds. Water the
plants frequently during their first year.
337
Make a home for frogs
Add a new dimension to a small garden or patio with a tiny pool made from a wooden barrel. Fill it with
compact pond plants and soon you will find frogs, toads, water skaters, and other wildlife making their
homes there too. The pool is best placed in a sunny spot that is in shade for part of the day.
<<
WHEN TO START
Early spring
AT ITS BEST
Spring to late summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Wooden half barrel
Strong plastic or butyl pond liner
Sharp knife or scissors
Galvanized nails and hammer
Aquatic pond baskets
Aquatic soil
Gravel and bricks
WILDLIFE GARDENING
LINE THE CONTAINER
Set the barrel where you
intend to keep it because
it will be very difficult to move
once it is full of water. Place the
pond liner over the top of the
barrel, and push it down in the center. Smooth it over
the bottom and around the edges, folding it neatly so
that it lines the barrel evenly. The liner should reach
about 4 in (10 cm) above the rim at this stage.
ATTACH THE LINER
Fill the barrel with
about 8 in (20 cm)
of water and trim off excess
liner just above the rim. With
galvanized nails, shorter
than the width of the wood,
tack the liner to the barrel,
then trim it above the nails.
Marginal plants; those used
here are:
Iris laevigata
Water forget-me-not, Myosotis
scorpioides ‘Alba’
Ragged robin, Lychnis flos-cuculi
Marsh marigold, Caltha palustris
ADD THE PLANTS
FILL THE POOL
Fill the pool to about 4 in (10 cm)
below the galvanized nails. Then
plant up your pond plants (see p.327).
Add gravel to the top of each basket to
prevent the soil from floating out.
Check the label of each plant to
see what depths it prefers. Most
marginals like to grow with the tops of
their baskets between 1–12 in (2–30 cm)
below the water surface. To provide the
correct depth, stand the plants on bricks
in the barrel. The raised baskets also act
like stepping stones, providing small
creatures, such as frogs and toads, with
easy access to and from the pool. To keep
the water clear, include one or two
oxygenating plants (see p.327).
CREATE A WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
In spring, ask friends or neighbors with a pond for
some frog or toad spawn, or tadpoles, to add to your
barrel. Position other potted plants around the pool, so that
the amphibians have landing places to hop in and out of the
water. Snails and water insects will soon find their way to
your pool too. From time to time, remove excess duckweed
(small round leaves that float on the surface) with a net or
old kitchen strainer, and take out algae using a stick.
339
<<
WILDLIFE GARDENING
Miniature Monet
If Monet’s lilies have inspired you but your garden is too tiny for
a large, naturalistic feature, make a small formal pool like this one.
Place a seating area close by from which to enjoy the flowers and
the cloud patterns reflected in the water.
DIG THE POND
WHEN TO PLANT
Early spring
Follow the steps for a wildlife pond
(see pp.324–326) but use strings
and pegs to mark out straight edges,
rather than curved sides. Like the wildlife
pond, this one needs a shelf for the
marginals and a deeper area for the lilies.
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 days to dig out and plant
CALL IN THE EXPERTS
YOU WILL NEED
Aquatic plant baskets
Aquatic soil
Gravel
Well-rotted organic matter
Oxygenating plants
The raised brick edging and patio
around the pond are best built by
a professional landscaper, unless your
skills are up to the job. Make a bog garden
around the pond (see p.330–331), enrich
the soil with organic matter, and plant up.
1. Arum lily, Zantedeschia aethiopica
2. Bergenia
PLANT THE POOL
3. Nymphaea ‘Pygmaea Rubra’
Plant the lilies and set them on
the bottom of the pool, and place
the irises and arum lily on the shelf (see
p.327). Include a few oxygenating plants
(see p.327) to keep the water clear.
4. Nymphaea alba
5. Iris laevigata ‘Variegata’
6. Iris laevigata var. alba
7. Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’
2
1
7
3
6
5
4
o Small yet stylish
Perfect for a small plot,
this pretty pool packs
in all the elements of
a large feature, with
a mix of water lilies,
irises, and elegant
arum lilies.
341
SELECTIONS >>
342 WILDLIFE GARDENING
>>
Lilies for a small pond
You don’t need a large pond to enjoy the stately beauty of water lilies;
many smaller species and cultivars are perfectly suited to small pools or
well-sealed containers. Choose from shades of red, pink, white, and yellow,
and look out for those with unusual foliage markings too. The flowers only
open fully when in sun, so plant them in a brightly lit position. They also
need still water, and will not thrive in a pond with a fountain or waterfall.
WILDLIFE GARDENING
A full sun B partial sun C full shade r planting depth
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Nymphaea tetragona; s16 in (40 cm) r 12 in (30 cm) A H12–1
s3 ft (1 m) r 12–30 in (30–75 cm) A H12–1
4 N. ‘Escarboucle’; s3 ft (1 m) r 30 in (75 cm) A H12–1
r 12–24 in (30–60 cm) A H12–1
5 N. ‘Lemon Chiffon’; s30 in (75 cm)
6 N. ‘Rose Arey’; s3 ft (1 m) r 20 in (50 cm) A H12–1
7 N. ‘Froebelii’; s3 ft (1 m) r 30 in (75 cm) A H12–1
r 30 in (75 cm) A H12–1
2 N. ‘René Gérard’;
3 N. ‘Gonnère’; s4 ft (1.2 m) r 3 ft (1 m) A H12–1
8 N. ‘Marliacea Chromatella’; s4 ft (1.2 m)
9 N. ‘Virginalis’; s4 ft (1.2 m) r 3 ft (1 m) A H12–1
‘Sulphurea’; s4 ft (1.2 m) r 30 in (75 cm)A H12–1
0 N. odorata
343
SELECTIONS >>
<<
Make a bubble fountain
Easy to install, this beautiful bubble fountain makes a wonderful feature in a small gravel garden, or
it can be used as a focal point in a formal setting. You can buy kits that come complete with a water
reservoir and lid, so you then just need a small water pump and a decorative pot to stand on the top.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT ITS BEST
Spring to autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
6 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Spade
Sand
Bubble fountain kit and piping
Small pump with flow adjuster
Electrical tubing
Frost-proof pot with drainage hole
Pebbles and gravel
PREPARE THE SITE
First ask a qualified electrician to
install an electricity supply and
an outdoor outlet to an easily concealed
location close to the fountain. Then dig
a hole larger than the reservoir.
LAY A SANDY FOUNDATION
Remove any sharp stones from the
hole and pack damp sand around
the edges, sides, and base. Place the
reservoir in the hole, and use a spirit level
to check that it is level in all directions.
<<
WILDLIFE GARDENING
PLACE THE PUMP
CHECK LEVELS
When level, place
the pump in the
reservoir. You may need to
fit an extension pipe onto
the pump to reach through
the hole in the base of the
decorative pot. Put the lid
on the reservoir, and over
the pipe from the pump.
Pack more sand
around the reservoir,
as necessary, and check
that it is level again. It is
essential that your fountain
is horizontal to prevent
water from draining out,
and to ensure that the pot
on top will be stable.
ATTACH THE FLOW
ADJUSTER
ADD THE POT
Place the decorative
pot on the reservoir
lid, making sure that the
pump pipe passes through
the drainage hole in the
bottom. Seal the pump
pipe in place with silicone
sealant, and leave to dry
and harden for 24 hours.
Attach a long
section of pipe to the water
flow adjuster. Then attach
this to the pump pipe in
the base of the pot. Trim
the water delivery pipe so
it reaches just below the
rim of the decorative pot.
PROTECT THE CORD
FILL WITH WATER
The electrical cord
must be protected
by special tubing, which
an electrician can advise
you about. Make sure that
all electrical connections
in the garden are fitted
with a ground fault circuit
interrupter (GFCI).
Use a watering can
or hose to fill the
reservoir through the holes
in the lid, and fill up the
decorative pot to just below
the delivery pipe.
DISGUISE THE
RESERVOIR
Plug in the pump
and check that it pushes
the water over the top of
the pot, and adjust the
flow as necessary. Disguise
the reservoir with pebbles
and gravel, leaving a gap
to allow you to fill it up—
you need to do this once
a week in summer.
TOP TIP: SOFTEN WITH PLANTING
Plant up around your pool,
leaving a margin between your
planting and the reservoir, to
avoid dislodging it. Plants from
the Mediterranean, such as
euphorbias (right), lavender, and
rock roses (Cistus) make great
companions for an urn. If you
prefer a more traditional look, try
roses, honeysuckle, and daisies.
345
346 WILDLIFE GARDENING
>>
Plant trees for wildlife
Trees are among the best features for wildlife. In urban areas, in particular, they act as beacons in a sea
of streets and housing, signaling to birds that rest and shelter are available. They provide nesting and
roosting sites, a home for insects and other wildlife, and many are a great source of food. Every garden
should have one; there are trees to suit any site, no matter how small.
INSECT FEASTS
Fruit trees, such as apples and pears,
provide a sweet feast late in the year, but
they are also rich sources of nectar when
they blossom in spring. As soon as their
first flowers open, these trees are alive
with hungry bees, pollinating the flowers
as they feed and ensuring a bountiful
harvest later in the year. Native trees
such as hawthorn (Crataegus) and elder,
(Sambucus), are particularly good for
wildlife, producing an abundance of nectar.
o a Unlimited options
Even cultivars of native trees, such as ‘Paul’s
Scarlet’ hawthorn (left) and elder flowers
(above), provide spring nectar for insects.
<<
WILDLIFE GARDENING
FOOD SOURCES FOR BIRDS
Berries are an attractive feature in a garden,
glowing in the low autumn sun, and they also
provide a sustained food source for birds and
other animals that can last well into the winter
months. If you have space, plant several fruiting
trees that ripen at different times to ensure
an long-lasting supply. Good choices for an
abundance of berries are whitebeam (Sorbus
aria), rowans (Sorbus), mulberries (Morus nigra),
elderberry (Sambucus) and cherries (Prunus).
No berries will go to waste—any windfalls are
readily eaten by birds, small mammals, and even
butterflies. If you have a bumper crop of fruit and
berries, consider freezing some to put out in late
winter when food is scarce.
Food for all p
Mulberries are loved by people and birds alike
(top left), and rowan berries (far right) are a food
source that can last for many months. Windfalls benefit
birds, ground-dwelling animals, and insects (right).
NESTING SITES
Trees become more valuable to wildlife as they get older; a
mature tree will become home to birds that return, year after
year. Trees with dense crowns and bare trunks are particularly
prized by birds because they provide sheltered nesting sites
and keep predators at bay. Once mature, a holly tree (Ilex) has
everything: berries, dense growth, and thorns that keep out all
but the most determined intruders. Other excellent prickly trees
are hawthorn (Crataegus), and blackthorn (Prunus spinosa).
If you don’t have space for mature trees, all three make great
wildlife hedges that offer similar protection for nesting birds (see
pp.192–193). Older trees require maintenance, and it is essential
that you carry out any pruning and routine care outside of
nesting time; otherwise, you risk upsetting nesting birds or
fledglings, which is against the law.
o Best for nests
Birds feel safe nesting
in the thick, dense,
impenetrable growth
of holly (left), and can
hide in the dark foliage
of the purple-leaved
plum (Prunus cerasifera
‘Pissardii’, far left).
347
Sow a flower meadow
Romantic, colorful, and easy to maintain, meadows are also perfect habitats for wildlife. The flowers and
grasses will thrive on infertile soil in a sunny site, and they need just one cut each year after the plants
have set seed. Meadows look best on a large scale and are ideal if you have lots of space to fill.
<<
WHEN TO START
Early autumn
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
8 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Wildflower seed
Horticultural sand
Spade
Wheelbarrow
Bamboo canes
Spring-tined rake
Garden rake
String and bird-scarer, such as
ribbons or old CDs
MIX SEED WITH SAND
To sow seed over a large
area, first mix it with clean,
dry horticultural sand. This helps
spread the seed more evenly, and
makes it obvious which areas you
have already sown. Wildflower mixes
should be sown at 3 grams per square yard, so weigh
out this amount of seed and mix it up with the sand in
batches in a clean container.
REMOVE A LAYER OF TOPSOIL
Topsoil is full of nutrients that
encourage strong grasses to grow
at the expense of delicate wildflowers.
Use a spade and wheelbarrow to remove
the top few inches, and recycle it
elsewhere in the garden. Also remove
any weeds and roots you find that could
regrow and compete with the flowers.
o Mellow meadow
This cool collection blends annual grasses with
blue cornflowers, purple corn cockles, pink
cosmos, white daisies, and cow parsley.
PREPARE THE SEEDBED
Remove stones from the area
and rake over the soil to break
up the surface. Leave the site for two
or three weeks, and then weed it
again. To prevent the seeds from
washing away, water the area before
sowing, not afterward. Use canes to
mark out the area into square yards,
and sow each square with your
batches of seed and sand mixture.
FIRM SOIL GENTLY
Use the back of a garden
rake to gently compact the
soil, ensuring good contact
between seed and soil, which
helps germination. It also makes
the seed less visible to birds, who
will happily eat their way through
the lot if given the chance.
WILDLIFE GARDENING
AFTER
SOWING
Use a
spring-tined rake
(see right) to
lightly cover the
seeds with soil
after sowing.
To avoid walking over sown areas, sow
a small area at a time and then rake over
it, before moving on to the next.
TOP TIP: KEEP BIRDS AT BAY
To prevent hungry birds from
eating the wildflower seed, set
up a series of strings with old CDs
threaded onto them across the
sown area. The CDs reflect light
as they move in the wind, which
frightens off the birds.
349
<<
WILDLIFE GARDENING
A feast for bees
Bees are suffering an alarming decline in numbers, so plant a border
of nectar-rich flowers to keep these essential insects well fed.
Prolong the food supply by growing early- and late-flowering plants.
PREPARE TO PLANT
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn and spring
AT ITS BEST
Summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
3 hours to prepare; 4 hours to plant
In autumn, weed the border
carefully. Then dig it thoroughly,
incorporating plenty of organic matter.
Plant the Pittosporum and roses in autumn
(see p.36 and p.93) so that they can
become established the following spring.
PLANT THE PERENNIALS
YOU WILL NEED
Spade
Fork
Well-rotted organic matter, such
as manure
1. Lupinus ‘The Governor’
2. Pittosporum tenuifolium
‘Silver Queen’
In spring, buy the perennials
(Achillea, Anchusa, lupins, and
Verbascum). Position them in swathes of
color running between the shrubs, then
plant (see pp.30–31).
AFTERCARE
Water well after planting, and
regularly for the first year. In spring,
prune the roses (see pp.414–415) and
support taller–growing plants (see p.67).
In late winter, cut back the old perennial
stems to be ready for new spring growth.
3. Anchusa azurea ‘Loddon
Royalist’
4. Achillea ‘Moonshine’
5. Rosa ‘Rose of Picardy’
6. Verbascum ‘Gainsborough’
1
2
6
3
4
5
351
SELECTIONS >>
352 WILDLIFE GARDENING
>>
Plants to attract insects
Bugs may not all be beautiful but the beneficial kinds are essential to the
environment. They not only pollinate flowers, ensuring good crops, but some,
such as ladybugs and hoverfly larvae, also help keep pests at bay. Plant
annuals, like sweet alyssum and viper's bugloss, or perennial Shasta daisies,
asters, bee balm, and ice plants to welcome these insect allies. Shrubs, such
as hebe, roses, lavender, and honeysuckle, will also help lure them in.
A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil
E moist soil
WILDLIFE GARDENING
F wet soil
HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met
1 Shasta daisy, Leucanthemum x superbum; h36 in (90 cm) s24 in (60 cm) ABd H8–1
2 Viper’s bugloss, Echium vulgare ‘Blue Bedder’; h24–36 in (60–90 cm) s12 in (30 cm) Ad H8–1
3 Hebe ‘Great Orme’; hs4 ft (1.2 m) ABd H12–1
Crystals’; hs10 in (25 cm) Ad H12–1
4 Sweet alyssum, Lobularia maritima ‘Snow
5 Dog rose, Rosa canina; h12 ft (4 m) s10 ft (3 m) ABe
H9–4 6 Lavender, Lavandula angustifolia ‘Hidcote’; h24 in (60 cm) s30 in (75 cm) Ad H8–5
7 Aster amellus cultivars; h16 in (40 cm) s18 in (45 cm) Ad H8–1 8 Honeysuckle, Lonicera
periclymenum; h22 ft (7 m) ABe H9–5
9 Bee balm, Monarda ‘Mahogany’; h36 in (90 cm)
s18 in (45 cm) ABe H9–1 0 Ice plant, Sedum spectabile; hs18 in (45 cm) Ad H9–1
353
SELECTIONS >>
<<
<<
WILDLIFE GARDENING
Wildlife wall
Many beneficial garden insects, such as ladybugs and ground beetles, struggle to find habitats in our
neat gardens. Consider creating a wildlife wall to lure them in and keep them happy. It creates perfect
homes for many different species, and its textures and patterns make it an attractive garden feature.
WHEN TO MAKE
Spring or summer
AT ITS BEST
Winter
TIME TO COMPLETE
4 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Sedum or Sempervivum plants
Bricks (with holes in them)
Small blocks of wood, drilled
with different sized holes
Roof tiles
Sheets of plywood or planks
of wood
Straw, corrugated cardboard,
slate chippings, bamboo canes,
clumps of moss, twigs
Soil
CONSTRUCT THE WALL
In a quiet area of the garden,
make a layer of bricks and tiles,
leaving plenty of gaps. Place plywood
or planks of wood on top and then add
another layer of bricks and tiles. Top the
structure off with the roof tiles, to keep
excess moisture out.
STUFF THE GAPS
Cut the bamboo canes into short
lengths and pack them into gaps
to make homes for solitary bees. Roll up
corrugated cardboard to create laying sites
for ladybirds. Moss, slate chippings, straw
and twigs pushed into the other holes will
be colonized by many different garden
insects. Plant the top with Sedum or
Sempervivum to create a living roof.
Make a dead hedge
This is a simple way to make a wildlife-friendly corner from vines and twigs that
cannot be composted. Small birds and insects will love it for shelter and food.
CONSTRUCTION TIPS
Use strong, long-lasting chestnut poles
for the uprights, hammering them
securely into the ground. For a neater
look, use lengths of willow to weave
loose sides. Then simply pile in shrub
trimmings, lengths of ivy and bramble,
and any other twigs the garden produces.
Eventually, they will rot or compact down,
and you can then add more to the top.
AFTERCARE
Your wildlife wall, once built,
should be left alone; the more
established (and decrepit) it becomes,
the better it will be for wildlife, so don’t
be tempted to disturb it. However, you
may need to occasionally restore some
of the materials, particularly those such
as straw that may be taken away as
nest-building materials by birds.
TOP TIP: CREATE A LOG HOME
A pile of old logs in the garden will
attract beetles, frogs, toads, and other
wildlife. Make a well-constructed
pile, supported by a few posts
hammered into the ground to prevent
rolling. Leave the logs to rot down.
355
356 WILDLIFE GARDENING
>>
Install a green roof
Environmentally-friendly green roofs attract wildlife and help insulate
buildings in winter and keep them cool in summer. The easiest way
to install one is with sedum matting, which you can buy by the yard.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
2–3 hours, or longer, depending
on roof size
YOU WILL NEED
Heavy-duty plastic sheet, such as
butyl pond-liner
Sand or gravel, or custom-made
underlay
Sedum matting
Sharp knife
Slow-release granular fertilizer
ASSESS YOUR ROOF
If you want to cover a roof on your
house, it is best to consult an expert
first to ensure that the proposed area can
take the weight of the planting and
growing medium, and that it has sufficient
drainage. Green roof specialists can be
found on the internet or in local directories.
FIRST STEPS
For flat or gently sloping shed roofs
or similar garden structures, sedum
matting is the best option for because it
is easy to lay and maintain. Sedum mats
come complete with mature plants already
established on a special material and in
growing medium, and should be laid soon
after delivery. The matting is heavy,
especially when wet, and will require
two people to lift it onto the roof.
INSTALL AN UNDERLAY
First, lay a heavy-duty plastic sheet,
such as a pond-liner, over the roof
to create a waterproof root barrier, then
add a layer of sand or gravel, or a
custom-made underlay sold by the
suppliers. Ensure that the surface is even
to prevent puddling when it rains since
the plants do not tolerate waterlogging.
LAY YOUR SEDUM MATTING
Place your sedum matting on the
roof and trim with a sharp knife.
The matting has an extra flap of material
at each side. To butt up two sections of
matting, unfold this flap on the first piece,
and lay the second on top of it. This
creates a perfect seam and anchors the
matting. Don’t use small pieces of matting
at the edge of the roof because they will
dry out quickly and the plants may die.
MAINTENANCE
To ensure that the plants thrive,
don’t walk or kneel on them when
installing the matting. Water plants during
dry spells until they are fully established.
After the first year they will require extra
irrigation only during severe droughts.
Apply a slow-release granular fertilizer
each spring, and replant any bald patches
with young plants. Some green roof
suppliers offer specialist fertilizers, but
one formulated for succulents and
drought-tolerant plants will also do the
job. Most weeds find it difficult to survive
in the thin, dry soil, but remove any that
do appear as soon as you see them.
<<
WILDLIFE GARDENING
Roof plants
Although sedum mats come already
planted up, you can add plants of your
own as bald patches appear. Choose
from the following to create a sea of
color throughout the year.
1 Thymus ‘Doone Valley’; H5 in (12 cm)
s14 in (35 cm) 2 Sedum acre H2 in
(5 cm) s24 in (60 cm) 3 Scabiosa
lucida; H8 in (20 cm) s12 in (30 cm)
o Rustic roof
This sedum-covered roof has been installed in
a wildlife garden on a small wood store made
from logs—an idea that could be adapted to
make a bike shelter. Smothered with flowers,
the roof attracts a wealth of butterflies and
beneficial insects into the garden.
357
358 WILDLIFE GARDENING
>>
Composting essentials
Composting conveniently disposes of your garden cuttings and trimmings, while at the same time
creating a free, and wonderful, soil improver. It can be as simple as throwing all your waste into
a pile and forgetting about it, but you will get better results if you follow a few simple guidelines.
CHOOSING A BIN
Standard plastic compost bins are
functional rather than attractive, but they
do hold lots of garden and kitchen waste.
They are also the most inexpensive, and
can often be bought at a discounted price
through your local supplier. If you are
concerned about how your compost bin
fits in with the rest of your garden, there
are more attractive options, including
wooden bins designed to look like
beehives that can be stained to suit your
garden design. These are a good choice
for smaller gardens where the bin would
be on view. Impatient gardeners may
prefer “tumbler” bins. These allow you to
make small batches of compost in weeks,
not months, by turning the bin to increase
airflow, which naturally speeds up the
composting process.
a Types of compost bin (clockwise from top left)
A standard plastic compost bin, the sort available from local suppliers; an attractive,
wooden bin, designed to look like a beehive; a vertical “tumbler” type, suitable for
smaller amounts of compost; a horizontal “tumbler” bin, designed for easy turning.
<<
FILLING YOUR BIN
To produce good compost
it is important to have the
right mix of ingredients.
If you add too much soft,
green material, such as
grass clippings, the heap
may turn into a slimy,
smelly sludge. Put in too
much dry, woody material,
and it will rot down slowly, if at all. Ideally, aim for a ratio of about 50:50.
During most of the year, it is likely that you will be producing more green
than dry material, so you will need to look around for dry waste to add.
Woody prunings are best, but brown cardboard, crumpled newspaper, and
even the insides of used toilet paper rolls all make suitable alternatives.
WILDLIFE GARDENING
Make a bin
A homemade bin is just as good as a bought
one, and you can make it whatever size and
shape best suits your garden and the quantity
of material you want to compost.
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 day
YOU WILL NEED
4 posts about 5 ft (1.5 m) long
Hammer
Chicken wire
Fencing staples
Cardboard boxes
Old carpet
QUICKENING THE PACE
Air is essential to the composting
process, so the contents must be
turned regularly to ensure good
airflow throughout your bin or heap.
Turning also allows you to check
how things are going, to wet the
mix if it is too dry, or to add dry
material if it is too wet. This task is
easier if you have two bins, but if
you only have one, simply empty
it out onto a tarpaulin, mix the
contents well, then refill the bin.
TOP TIP: BOKASHI COMPOSTING
Cooked foods, meat, and fish should never be composted in an ordinary
bin because they attract rats and harmful bacteria. Instead, compost this
type of waste using the Japanese bokashi system. This involves using a
special sealed bin that you fill in layers, each one sprinkled with bran
dust, inoculated with microorganisms. The
content of the bin then effectively pickles,
and after about two weeks, it can be
emptied out and buried in the garden or
added to the compost heap. This method
also produces a liquor that can be diluted
and used as a liquid feed.
The bokashi bin p
Food scraps pickle in the sealed bin for two
weeks and give off very little smell. The bin
can be kept indoors or outside.
ATTACH WIRE TO POSTS
Set the posts 30 in (75 cm)
apart in a square and drive
them 12 in (30 cm) into the
ground, using a hammer. Wrap
the chicken wire around the posts
and attach it with fencing staples.
Snip off
excess wire;
make sure
no sharp
strands are
left sticking
out.
ADD CARDBOARD SIDES
Flatten the cardboard boxes and put several
layers on each side, slotting them between
the posts and the netting. Put a layer on the base
then start filling your
bin. Place a piece of old
carpet on top of the
waste; replace it each
time you add more.
This helps keep out the
rain and insulates the
bin, speeding up the
composting process.
359
360 WILDLIFE GARDENING
>>
Rake up a leafy conditioner
Leafmold is one of the finest soil conditioners, and makes excellent use of a resource that is free and
abundant in autumn—fallen leaves. All you need to make rich, crumbly leafmold is a plastic bin liner,
some leaves from deciduous trees and a lot of patience.
WHEN TO START
Autumn
AT ITS BEST
The following autumn
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
YOU WILL NEED
A rake
Leaves
Plastic bag
Hand fork
Watering can
RAKE UP FALLEN LEAVES
When leaves start to fall in autumn,
rake them up. For larger supplies,
collect leaves from local parks or woods,
but do not use those close to main roads.
PLACE IN A PLASTIC LINER
You can make a leafmold bin, but a
plastic trash can liner works just as
well, and has an added advantage, which
is that it can be kept in a small space,
such as behind a shed. Put leaves into
the liner, pushing them down as you go.
SPRINKLE WITH WATER
As you pack the leaves in,
occasionally stop and sprinkle
them with water. Wet leaves will rot
down much quicker than dry ones.
Keep filling and wetting until the
bag is full. One bag of leafmold
won’t go very far, so try to collect
enough leaves to fill a few bags.
<<
WILDLIFE GARDENING
Nature’s helpers
Inside a wormery, worms break down kitchen waste and turn
it into rich compost. They can even cope with scraps, such as
cooked food. Wormeries are available from specialist suppliers.
TIE BAG SECURELY
Your bag is going to be left for a
long time, so make sure you tie it
well. This will prevent small creatures
from making a home in the leaves.
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
A wormery, with
tigerworms included
Food waste
Soft “bedding” such as coir
or shredded newspaper
FEED YOUR WORMS
PUNCH A FEW AIR HOLES
Leaves also need air to rot down
efficiently, so punch some holes
in the sides with a fork. Put the bag away
and forget about it for at least a year.
TOP TIP: USING LEAFMOLD
After a year or two, your leafmold will
be ready to use. It works particularly
well as a mulch, and is especially
loved by woodland plants.
Alternatively, it can be sieved and
used as an ingredient in potting soil.
ADD THE WORMS
Place the tigerworms on the
bedding, then start by adding a
small amount of food waste (referring
to the instructions). Worms take a week
to settle in and get up to full speed. Do
not add any more food during this time.
After the settling in period, you
should be able to use most of
your food scraps, making sure you
add some every day. It is best to use
a variety of food and other ingredients,
such as leaves and moist newspaper,
to keep the texture
from becoming too
dense. Worms can
cope with most
foods, but they
struggle with citrus
fruits and meat.
FINAL COMPOST
Wormeries can become acidic,
so occasionally add lime, such as
calcified seaweed. When the compost is
ready it will be dark, fairly soggy, and
slightly spongy. The worms are just below
the surface and can be easily removed.
You can then use it on garden borders or
mix it in with your other compost.
361
362 WILDLIFE GARDENING
>>
Homes for birds and bees
Birds and beneficial insects not only make a garden a more interesting place, they also help control
pests and improve flower pollination. Gardening organically helps make them feel welcome, but
providing a specially made home really rolls out the red carpet and encourages them to stay.
Bee hotel
Solitary bees are excellent pollinators,
but they can struggle to find nesting
sites. A home-made nest looks attractive
and provides them with a home, as well
as ensuring bumper harvests.
WHEN TO START
Summer
AT ITS BEST
Autumn to winter
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
Clippers
Bamboo canes
Modeling clay
Raffia or string
Small terracotta or plastic pot
CUT LENGTHS OF BAMBOO
TOP TIP: FLOWER FOOD
Use sharp clippers to cut short
lengths of bamboo canes that will
fit into your pot. The natural variation in
diameter will attract different bee species.
HANG YOUR HOTEL
PUSH THEM INTO A POT
Fill the base of a terracotta pot with
modeling clay and push the cut
bamboo canes firmly into it. Continue
doing this until the pot is packed tightly.
Tie raffia or string firmly around
the pot and suspend it from a hook
or attach it to a wall. Choose a sheltered,
sunny site, and angle the open end of the
pot downward so that the bamboo canes
do not fill up with water when it rains.
To make life even better for your
resident bees, position the nest close
to a border planted with nectar-rich
flowers. They will then have only a
short distance to travel for food, which
will be a great help to them in spring.
<<
WILDLIFE GARDENING
Choosing and siting a nest
Encourage birds to visit your garden and you will have a ready army of pest-eaters
on your side. If you can persuade them to make their nests and rear their young
there too, they will make a fascinating animated addition to the flowers and
foliage. Put up one or two nest boxes, and see who moves in.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT BOX
Birds are picky about where they live, so
it is important to choose the right type
of box. Select one that is made from an
insulating material, such as wood to
prevent them from becoming too hot or
cold, and avoid any made from ceramic
or those with metal roofs. Correct hole
size is also important: too small, and the
birds you want to attract may not fit;
too large, and wind, rain, and even
predators may get in. The box should be
robust, waterproof, safe, and comfortable.
Different bird species have different
needs, so if you want to make a home
for a particular species, do some research
and first find out what suits it.
SITING YOUR BOX
Nest boxes should be sited in a sheltered place, away from strong sunlight, wind, and
rain. Position them in the quietest area of the garden, away from feeding areas, and at
least 5 ft (1.5 m) above the ground. This mimics the nesting places birds naturally prefer,
and keeps them safe from predators. Choose a position away from large branches where
cats can lurk, but where there are flimsy twigs nearby to give fledglings somewhere to
perch when they first leave the nest. The best time to put up nest boxes is outside the
breeding season, between midsummer and late winter.
TOP TIP: HOME-MADE BOX
1 Birds use roosting pockets to hide from
predators during the day. Smaller species,
such as wrens, may even nest in them.
2 Boxes with a smaller 1 in (25 mm) hole
are attractive to a wide range of garden
birds, including chickadees and bluebirds.
3 Open-fronted nest boxes appeal to
robins and wrens, which prefer to see
out of their home.
If you want to make your own bird box,
wood is probably the easiest and best
material to use. There are plenty of plans
and designs available that only require
simple tools and basic carpentry skills.
Wood needs to be treated to prevent it
from decaying, and you may also decide
to stain or paint it. In all cases, choose
products that are nontoxic and wildlifefriendly to help keep your birds healthy.
363
Plants for
your Home
Bring the essence of your garden inside with some beautiful
house plants. Grow bold sculptural foliage types to make a
statement in a modern home, or brighten up a windowsill
with flowering plants, such as exotic orchids and the delicate
blooms of Cape primroses, Streptocarpus (left). You will also
find great ideas in this chapter for displaying and grouping
plants to create elegant arrangements, and learn how to
bring your beauties back into flower year after year.
Dramatic amaryllis
Hippeastrum (commonly known as amaryllis) provide the biggest,
boldest flowers of winter, and can even be bought preforced so
that they bloom in time for the Christmas holidays. For such exoticlooking blooms, their needs are simple: a nice tight pot, water, light,
and a short rest in late summer is all they require.
WHEN TO PLANT
Autumn
AT ITS BEST
Winter
TIME TO COMPLETE
A few hours during the year
YOU WILL NEED
1 Hippeastrum bulb
Basin
Multi-purpose soil
Container
Balanced liquid fertilizer
PLANT IN CONTAINER
Choose a pot, just larger than the
bulb itself, that has a drainage hole.
Fill the base with soil, place the bulb on
top, and add more soil. Leave the top third
of the bulb protruding.
SOAK BULB
Soak the bulb roots in a basin of
lukewarm water for a few hours.
This will soften them and encourage the
bulb to come into growth again.
LEAVE TO SHOOT
Water the bulb well to help settle
the soil, then place the pot in a
bright, warm spot at about 70°F (21°C).
Water sparingly until new leaves develop;
then water regularly, keeping it moist.
<<
TOP TIP: REPOTTING BULBS
Hippeastrum go into dormancy at the
end of summer. If yours doesn’t, stop
watering and feeding it, and cut back
the leaves to encourage it to do so.
Repot into a slightly larger pot. After
several weeks, when new growth
appears, resume watering.
PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
Flower choices
Hippeastrum are excellent festive plants, and offer an equally vibrant alternative
to the traditional poinsettias. They usually flower in shades of red and white, but
some have orange, salmon, and even green-tinted blooms. Their large trumpetshaped flowers are often heavily patterned, and vary greatly in shape; some are
broad and round, while others are slender and elegant.
a A firm hand
Ensure that the bulb is firmly planted so
it does not topple over when in flower.
AFTERCARE
Turn the pot frequently to prevent
the flower stalk growing to one
side. Move the plant to a cool spot when
it starts flowering, to prolong the display.
Feed weekly after flowering.
1 ‘Lucky Strike’ is an early-flowering cultivar with deep red, rounded flowers that make
a particularly festive choice for a Christmas windowsill. 2 ‘Apple Blossom’ is scented,
with pink-blushed, white flowers. Each bulb produces several spikes, with around four
flowers apiece. 3 ‘Giraffe’ has slender cream petals, decorated with vivid red stripes and
splashes. It usually flowers about ten weeks after planting. 4 ‘Prelude’ is possibly the
most spectacular of all the Hippeastrum, producing an abundance of huge red and white
flowers on tall, upright stems. It usually flowers in as little as five weeks after planting.
367
368 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Mix and match a display
Solitary small and medium-sized house plants can look lost on a shelf or windowsill, but when
grouped together on a tray, they form a lively display of contrasting colors, shapes, and textures.
A layer of pretty pebbles sets off the flowers and foliage, and when the tray is filled with water,
they help provide the humid atmosphere that these plants enjoy.
POT UP THE PLANTS
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
1
Tray
Plastic sheet
Pebbles
House plant containers
1. Fatsia japonica
5
Experiment with different-sized
containers that fit into the tray,
mixing tall and short ones, or even cups
and saucers. For a sophisticated display,
select pots of the same color. When you
have the right grouping, buy plants that
fit the pots, rather than vice versa.
2. Creeping fig, Ficus pumila
2
4
3
3. Peperomia caperata ‘Luna Red’
4. Mind-your-own-business,
Soleirolia soleirolii
5. Streptocarpus ‘Bethan’
LINE THE TRAY
Line your tray with a plastic sheet
(cut from an old compost bag, for
example), covering the sides to create a
½–1 in (1–2 cm) deep reservoir. Arrange the
pots on the tray, and fill in around them
with small pebbles. Fill the tray with water
to just below the top of the plastic liner.
Alternative effects
In addition to grouping containers, create displays by
using different plants in one large pot, or repeating
a single houseplant species throughout your home.
MATCHING HOUSEPLANTS
When using one large pot for a variety of plants, make
sure that you combine those that enjoy the same
conditions. Groups of ferns were very fashionable in
Victorian times and are now de rigueur once more; these
leafy shade-lovers look great in a large glass bowl or
contrasting smooth white pots. You could also try large
foliage plants, such as angel wings, Caladium, edged with
delicate maidenhair ferns like Adiantum. For a hot, sunny
windowsill or table, create succulent and cactus displays
where natural desert conditions are easy to emulate.
a Flowering desert
Mix a group of cacti of contrasting
shapes and sizes in one container, and
pack them together to create a desert
display for a warm, sunny room.
a Contemporary trick
Plant up identical containers with
the same plant, such as this textural
fern, Nephrolepis exaltata, to create
a chic, contemporary look.
370 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Hang a basket indoors
House plants are usually grown individually in pots, but trailing types can look great mixed together
in a hanging basket. Ideal if you have limited windowsill space, colourful baskets also create an
attractive “living” feature for your home. Plants will need removing and potting on every few years.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT ITS BEST
Any time
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
YOU WILL NEED
Hanging basket
Plastic bowl and plastic sheet
Electric drill
Multipurpose potting mix
Horticultural grit
Slow-release granular fertilizer
Plants used here:
Lipstick vine, Aeschynanthus
Begonia rex
Small-leaved ivy, Hedera helix
TRIM LINER
Use a piece of thick plastic to line
the inside of the basket. Trim the
edges to ensure that the base and sides
are fully covered, but the liner is not
visible over the edge.
DRILL DRAINAGE HOLES
Take a low, wide plastic bowl and
drill lots of small drainage holes in
the base. This will act as your pot, while
the lined hanging basket acts as a saucer
to catch any excess water.
ADD A LAYER OF GRIT
Cover the small drainage holes with
a layer of horticultural grit to keep
them from blocking up. Then add a layer
of potting mix with slow-release fertilizer,
leaving space for the plants.
<<
Hanging basket options
PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
For indoor hanging baskets choose trailing plants that will cascade over the
sides in curtains of texture and color. Flowering plants, such as lipstick vine
(Aeschynanthus), give seasonal color in summer, while those with brightly
colored foliage provide interest all year. Although these plants are familiar and
widely sold, brought together, they create a spectacular and long-lasting display.
PLACE PLANTS
Remove the plants from their pots
and arrange them around the
basket. Plants such as begonias and spider
plants (see right) make good focal points,
and they are best planted toward the
center of the basket.
FIRM IN WITH POTTING MIX
Use small amounts of potting mix
to fill in around the plants. Firm it
down with your fingers and add more until
the surface of the compost is level, leaving
a 1 in (2 cm) gap below the rim. Hang it in
a bright spot out of direct sunlight.
TOP TIP: WATERING
Water every two weeks in spring and
summer. Make sure the whole surface
of the potting mix is wetted. The liner
will act as a saucer and catch excess
moisture. After an hour, take down
the basket and tip out any excess so
that the potting mix doesn’t become
waterlogged, which could harm your
plants. Reduce watering in winter.
1 Begonia ‘Bettina Rothschild‘; E16 in (40 cm) 2 Spider plant, Chlorophytum
comosum ‘Variegatum‘; h8 in (20 cm) s12 in (30 cm) 3 Polka dot plant, Hypoestes
phyllostachya; h12 in (30 cm) s10 in (25 cm) 4 Thousand mothers, Tolmiea menziesii;
E12 in (30 cm) 5 Wandering Jew, Tradescantia fluminensis ‘Variegata‘; h6 in (15 cm)
s8 in (20 cm) 6 Purple velvet plant, Gynura aurantiaca; E12 in (30 cm)
371
SELECTIONS >>
372 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Spectacular orchids
Orchids are arguably the most exquisite flowering plants you can grow
indoors, their variety of color and shape unmatched by any other plant
group. Once you have succeeded with one, and gotten the bug, you will
be hooked. Many flower throughout the winter months, offering an extra
treat for color–starved gardeners, and are well worth the effort involved
in growing them. For detailed growing conditions, refer to plant labels.
PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
A bright, indirect light B partial shade d allow to dry out between waterings E keep moist in summer, water sparingly in winter
1 Cymbidium lowianum; h36 in (90 cm) s24 in (60 cm) AE 2 Miltoniopsis hybrid; Hs10 in
(25 cm) BE 3 Moth orchid, Phalaenopsis pink hybrid; h16 in (40 cm) s14 in (35 cm) BD
4 Coelogyne nitida; h10 in (25 cm) s12 in (30 cm) AE 5 x Doritaenopsis ‘Taida Pearl’; h28 in
(70 cm) s12 in (30 cm) AE 6 Dendrobium ‘Sweet Dawn’; h24 in (60 cm) s6 in (15 cm) AE
7 Cymbidium ‘Minuet’; h12 in (30 cm) s18 in (45 cm) AE 8 Paphiopedilum callosum hybrid;
h12 in (30 cm) s6 in (15 cm) BE 9 Oncidium ‘Jungle Monarch’; HS12 in (30 cm) AD
0 Epidendrum prismatocarpum; hs18 in (45 cm) AD
373
SELECTIONS >>
<<
374 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Grow exotic orchids
Sophisticated, stylish, and highly fashionable, it’s little wonder we all fall for elegant orchids. However,
many die off after flowering because they don’t receive the right care, or aren’t suited to life in a typical
modern home. But choose your orchids carefully, and they can live long and happy lives.
CHOOSING PLANTS AND POTS
When choosing an orchid, unless you
are an expert, select one that enjoys
conditions that you can provide at home,
such as a moth orchid, Phalaenopsis, or
a Cymbidium. If you can keep your plants
in a heated greenhouse, your choice is
wider. Hybrids of the following orchids
are generally reliable, given the right
conditions (see opposite): Cattleya,
Dendrobium, Epidendrum, Oncidium, and
the slipper orchid, Paphiopedilum.
Before buying an orchid, look over the
plant for any signs of pests and diseases,
and make sure it has plenty of flowers and
firm buds. Check that the aerial roots are
firm and pale with green tips, and that any
roots visible through a clear plastic pot
(in which orchids are often grown) are
equally healthy, and not black.
Most tropical orchids have aerial roots
that absorb water and photosynthesize
like leaves, taking energy from the sun
and converting it into food. As a result,
they can survive in very little soil, and
require only small containers. Some should
be grown in transparent pots to enable the
roots to absorb sunlight.
Shop around p
Buy your orchids from a reputable source, such
as a specialist nursery. Avoid those that have
been sitting around in a drafty store for weeks,
because they may not survive for very long.
WATERING AND FEEDING
The most common cause of an orchid’s
early demise is over-watering. Although
different orchids have different needs,
most require watering once or twice a
week in spring and summer, and once
every two weeks in winter. In the case
of Cattleya, water just enough to prevent
the pseudobulb (the swelling at the
base of the stems) from shriveling. Keep
Dendrobium almost dry in winter. Use a
can filled with tepid rain- or filtered water,
and pour it into the pot until it runs from
the base. For plants with congested roots,
submerge the pot to just below the rim in
a bowl of water, and leave until the soil
surface is damp, then remove and allow
to drain. Also provide some humidity by
misting the leaves with rain- or filtered
a Wipe away excess moisture
After watering your plants, leave them to drain
and wipe off any excess moisture on or between
the leaves with a soft cloth to prevent rotting.
a Warm mist
Do not mist orchids with cold water; leave
rain- or filtered water to warm up to room
temperature, and spray in the morning.
water, avoiding the flowers; or sit the pots
on a tray of damp pebbles or gravel (see
pp.368–367).
Orchid soil contains no nutrients, so
start feeding your plants with a proprietary
orchid fertilizer as soon as you get them
home, following the instructions on the
package. Some, such as Phalaenopsis,
should be fed weekly, while others need
less frequent applications.
Orchid types
Before buying, make sure you can give
your chosen orchid the temperature it
needs. Remember that most require a
10°F (5°C) drop between day and night.
WARM-GROWING
Tender orchids, such as Dendrobium
hybrids and Phalaenopsis, require
warmth all year, with a minimum winter
temperature of 61–64°F (16–18°C). They
will tolerate occasional dips, and are
fine in centrally heated houses, if moved
away from cold windowsills at night.
INTERMEDIATE
Cattleya, Epidendrum, and Paphiopedilum
require more warmth in winter than
cool-growing orchids, but will tolerate
slightly higher temperatures in summer
(see below). Most grow well indoors,
but should be moved away from cold
windowsills at night during winter.
COOL-GROWING
POSITIONING YOUR ORCHIDS
As with watering, the light requirements
of orchids differ depending on the type.
Epidendrum grow on tropical tree
branches in the wild and like bright,
indirect light. Cymbidium hybrids also
prefer bright light, and should be set
outside in a sheltered spot during the
summer, then given a bright, cool
position indoors out of direct sun, such
as a conservatory or a frost-free porch,
a Fuss-free orchid
The large exotic blooms of the moth orchid
belie its easy-going nature. It requires soft
light and is quite happy in a warm room.
This group includes Cymbidium and
Oncidium, which prefer low temperatures
all year. Stand them outside in summer
in a sheltered spot, then bring them in
to an unheated room, such as a cool
conservatory or greenhouse, for winter,
keeping them at around 46–50°F (8–10°C).
in autumn and winter. Cattleya and
Oncidium prefer a bright position that
offers some shade at midday, such as
an east- or west-facing windowsill, but
move them to a bright spot that receives
sun all day in winter when light levels
are significantly lower.
If you do not have a light area in
which to keep an orchid, choose a
Phalaenopsis or Paphiopedilum hybrid.
These dislike strong sunlight, preferring
a shady site from late spring to autumn.
o Dainty Dendrobium
Position a Dendrobium where it will receive
bright filtered light and keep humidity levels
high in the growing season. It will then reward
you with these exquisite flowers.
a Cool customer
With its spidery green and maroon flowers,
Cymbidium kanran is a fantastic orchid for those
with a cool room to keep it in throughout winter.
376 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Display stunning orchids
Stems of rich ruby-red flowers, set off by a basket-weave container, create a spectacular display
for an east- or west-facing windowsill, or a bright spot out of direct sun. The orchid shown here,
Colmanara ‘Massai Red’, will flower for many weeks and is very easy to look after.
WHEN TO PLANT
Late spring
AT ITS BEST
Late spring to summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
YOU WILL NEED
Large plastic-lined basket
Expanded clay pebbles, such as
Hortag (available from garden
centers and orchid nurseries)
Garden moss or moss-like
substitute
Thin wooden stakes
Colmanara ‘Massai Red’
LINE THE CONTAINER
If your container does not have an
integrated lining, use a sheet of
plastic to line it. Then add a layer of
expanded clay pebbles, which absorb water
and slowly release it to increase humidity.
ADD THE ORCHIDS
Keeping the orchids in their pots,
arrange them in the basket. Make
sure that their flowering stems are well
spaced out for maximum impact. Stake any
wayward stems to create a fanlike shape.
AFTERCARE
Place the orchids in a bright room,
away from full sun; keep them at
59–73°F (15–23°C) during the day, and
50–59°F (10–15°C) at night. Throughout
the year, water the plants when the soil
is almost dry and apply an orchid fertilizer
with every other watering. Spray every
few days with rainwater or filtered tap
water to maintain humidity.
FILL THE GAPS
Hold the orchid pots upright and fill
around them using more expanded
clay pebbles. Firm them down gently to
ensure that they hold the plants in place,
which can be top-heavy when in flower.
TOP WITH MOSS
Finally, add a layer of garden moss,
or a moss substitute, over the clay
pebbles and tops of the orchid pots. Water
the pots and add some water to the
pebbles as well.
Staying power p
Each flower spike of Colmanara ‘Massai Red’
lasts up to seven weeks. Keep the plant at
room temperature for most of the year,
but slightly cooler when in flower to
prolong the blooming period.
378 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Force bulbs for winter
The winter garden may be asleep, but you can bring spring color and
scent indoors by growing bulbs as house plants. Most effective are
those that have been “preforced,” which simply means they have
been chilled and fooled into thinking that winter has already passed,
and can be grown to bloom for Christmas and New Year.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO START
Early autumn
AT THEIR BEST
Winter to early spring
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
Preforced bulbs,
at least three per bowl
Containers (with drainage holes);
use deep pots for narcissi
Free-draining soil
Bulb fiber
Moss for decoration
Hyacinths
With colorful flowers and a delicious scent, hyacinths are ideal for growing indoors.
Plant them in early autumn and they will flower in the coldest depths of winter.
STORE IN
DARK
Put the
bowl in a cool,
dark place for
eight weeks.
Check regularly
and keep the
soil slightly moist.
Pale yellow
leaves will eventually appear, and you
should also be able to see the flower
buds poking through in the middle.
PLANT IN BOWLS
Put a shallow layer of soil in a
bowl. Place the hyacinths on top,
not touching each other, with pointed ends
up. Add more soil, leaving the top third of
the bulbs uncovered. Water well.
AFTERCARE
Bring the plants out into the light
to flower. Place them in a cool,
light spot, but not in bright sun. Water
them enough to keep the soil just moist,
and turn the bowl daily.
<<
PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
Narcissi
Treated miniature daffodils, such as
‘Tête-à-Tête’ and ‘Soleil d’Or’, are easy
to force, but need lots of light.
PLANT AND STAKE
Plant bulbs in a pot, with the pointed tips
just below the soil. Water to settle the soil.
Place the pot in a sunny spot to encourage
strong growth. Then wait for shoots to
appear. Keep the soil moist, and support
taller stems with stakes.
TOP TIP: GROWING IN WATER
Forced bulbs can be grown in water
alone. Special hyacinth vases hold the
bulbs just above the surface, or you
can use pebbles in a vase of water to
create the same effect. Change the
water regularly, and keep it topped up,
so that it always sits just below the
base of the bulb.
o Maximize flowering
Both hyacinths and narcissi will flower for longer
in cool conditions. If you use them to decorate
a warm room, store in a cooler spot at night.
379
380 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Plants for focal points
Tiny containers can look cute, but to create a statement, go for big, bold, sculptural plants in dramatic
pots. Flowers also add punch but they are seasonal, so for year-round glamour focus on the leaves first
when making your choices. Set more delicate plants in tall urns or on tables to raise their profile.
CHOOSING A STATEMENT PLANT
Before buying a plant, think about where
you would like to position it, and how
much space you can afford. Plants with
large dark leaves tend to prefer shade,
while those with variegated foliage and
palms enjoy more light. Cacti are happy
in hot spots near south-facing windows,
and the large types make striking features.
Beware of their spines and hairs, though,
because they will irritate your skin.
Also consider how quickly your plant
will grow. Some, such as the bamboo
palm, Dypsis lutescens, stay the same size
for many years, while vigorous plants, like
the sentry palm, Howea belmoreana, and
Swiss cheese plant, Monstera deliciosa,
can double their size in a couple of years,
given the right conditions.
<<
PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
Architectural plant options
When choosing a house plant to make a bold statement in your home, either
opt for one single dramatic specimen, or select a few smaller ones that combine
well to create more impact. Unusual shapes and textures draw the eye, too, and
can make up for size in smaller homes. If you love bright colors, select plants
with blowsy blooms, such as amaryllis, or fiery bracts, like the Vriesea species.
PLACING YOUR PLANT
Use your plant as a focal point to draw
attention to an area of the room, or to
provide a leafy contrast to the hard lines
of cabinets and other furniture. Also,
ensure the plant won’t be an obstacle,
and choose a pot that matches your decor.
TOP TIP: CLEAN LEAVES
Dust-covered foliage ruins the look of
a plant, and restricts the light reaching
the leaves, inhibiting its growth. Use a
damp soft cloth to wipe away grime
and dirt, or place your plant in the
shower and wash off the dust. Add a
shine to large-leaved plants by wiping
a little milk over the surfaces.
o Peaceful home
The large glossy leaves and elegant white
flowers of the peace lily, Spathiphyllum wallisii,
are matched by this simple metal container.
Choose a large variety for a big statement.
1 The shade-loving Calathea rufibarba ‘Blue Grass’, and dumb cane, Dieffenbachia
seguine ‘Saturn’, make perfect partners in a large ceramic pot. 2 Vriesea species
have colorful bracts that last for many weeks. 3 Japanese sago palm, Cycas revoluta,
is an excellent house plant that strikes a pose but grows very slowly, so buy one to fit your
space, and position it in bright light—a conservatory is ideal. 4 These two tiny plants
create a talking point when combined in a bowl on a stand. However, they need different
conditions and are planted in separate pots: the grassy Isolepis cernua requires lots of
water to thrive, while the string of beads, Senecio rowleyanus, prefers dryer conditions.
381
SELECTIONS >>
382 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Shade-loving houseplants
All homes have a shady corner that may need brightening up, and there
are lots of houseplants that are happy in low light. Many foliage plants, in
particular, grow on shady rain forest floors in the wild, and will cope well
in a north-facing room, especially if you mist them regularly to imitate their
natural environment. Others, especially those that produce beautiful flowers,
grow best in lighter conditions, but will tolerate a good deal of shade.
PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
A full light B partial shade C full shade
E water lightly—only when the top inch of soil is dry
F water frequently—once or twice a week in the growing season
1 Parlor palm, Chamaedorea elegans; h3 ft (1 m) s12 in (30 cm) Bcf 2 Peperomia caperata
‘Luna’; hs12 in (30 cm)Bcf 3 Painted net-leaf, Fittonia albivenis Verschaffeltii Group; hs12 in
(30 cm) BF 4 Zebra plant, Calathea zebrina; hs3 ft (1 m) BF 5 Peace lily, Spathiphyllum
‘Mauna Loa’; h36 in (90 cm) s24 in (60 cm) BF 6 Miniature tree fern, Blechnum gibbum; h20 in
(50 cm) s3 ft (1 m) BcF 7 Mother-in-law’s tongue, Sansevieria trifasciata; h4 ft (1.2 m) s16 in
(40 cm) Bce 8 Philodendron bipinnatifidum; hs10 ft (3 m) BcF 9 Flamingo flower,
Anthurium andraeanum; hs20 in (50 cm) BF 0 Prayer plant, Maranta leuconeura; h12 in (30 cm)
s16 in (40 cm) BF
383
SELECTIONS >>
<<
384 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Add flower power to your home
Recreate a holiday atmosphere in your home with a selection of vibrant or scented tropical flowers that
hint at beach-front promenades. Flowers provide colorful contrasts to cool, contemporary interiors,
and many bloom for months without too much trouble—just keep them well fed and watered.
BRIGHT BRACTS
Like colorful neon lights, vibrant bromeliad
flowers and bracts make a bold statement
that can’t be ignored. To show off these
peacocks of the houseplant world to full
effect, present them against a clean,
simple backdrop, such as a white
windowsill. The bright bracts of most
bromeliads last for many months, and the
flowers peep out between or above them.
SURVIVAL STRATEGY
Most bromeliads, including Guzmania,
Tillandsia, and Vriesea, are from the
tropics and love the warmth of a heated
home, but suffer if the humidity is low.
Plant them in free-draining soil and water
them regularly when in growth, reducing
the frequency in winter. Do not overwater
bromeliads because soggy soil can kill
them. To provide humidity, mist them
once or twice a week with soft water or
rainwater, applied at room temperature.
TOP TIP: FEEDING TILLANDSIA
a Water with care
When watering Vriesea, pour into the central
cup formed by the rosette of leaves. Also
water the soil to keep it moist.
Tillandsia has few roots and
clings to trees in its natural
habitat, absorbing water and
nutrients through its leaves.
Provide similar conditions by
misting the leaves once a
month with a quarter-strength
balanced liquid fertilizer,
ideally diluted with rainwater.
a Tropical pots
Hot-hued glazed pots
bring out the colors of
these three vivid
bromeliads: Guzmania
dissitiflora, Tillandsia
cyanea, and a flaming
red Vriesea. Although
they prefer bright
light, they dislike
direct sun, so avoid
hot, south-facing
windowsills.
<<
PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
Long-lasting blooms
Vacation care
Flowers in the home deserve pride of place, so if you have space for just one
or two, choose plants that will sparkle for several months.
Take a few precautions before you
go to avoid the disappointment of
returning home to find your house
plants flagging, or dead.
LONG-TERM COLOR
For prolonged flower power, Streptocarpus
(see pp.368–369), which come in many
colors, can bloom almost all year. Other
good choices include the orange-flowered
dwarf pomegranate, Punica granatum var.
nana, statuesque Lantana, and Plumbago,
with its blue summer flowers.
SET THEM OUTSIDE
One way to keep plants happy while you
are on vacation is to set them outdoors
in the shade on a tray of pebbles. Many
will tolerate summer night temperatures,
and enjoy the fresh air and humidity
outside. Check plant labels first for their
minimum temperature requirements.
PLANT OPTIONS
WATERING TRICKS
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis
Kalanchoe
Lantana camara
Persian violet, Exacum affine
Plumbago auriculata
Streptocarpus hybrids
a Persian queen
Masses of tiny fragrant blue flowers adorn the
Persian violet, Exacum affine, for many months
from spring and throughout the summer.
Floral scents
If keeping plants in the garden is not an
option, try the plastic bottle trick. Cut the
bottom off a bottle and make a small
hole in the lid with a skewer. Invert the
bottle and push the lid into the soil. Fill
the bottle, and water will slowly seep
into the soil while you are away.
Why buy flower-scented air fresheners when you can have the real thing, and
enjoy colorful blooms into the bargain? Take care when choosing a fragrant plant
because the intense perfume of some can be overpowering in a small room.
PERFUMED PRIZES
Choose between the compact gardenia,
prized for its white, deliciously scented
flowers and shiny dark foliage; an indoor
jasmine, Stephanotis; and the wax plant,
Hoya carnosa. The wax plant and jasmine
are climbers and need space to grow, or
train them around a wire hoop. All are
highly fragrant and need bright light.
PLANTING OPTIONS
a Fragrant wax flower
Hoya lanceolata subsp. bella has the same
sweet scent as its climbing cousin, H. carnosa,
but reaches just 18 in (45 cm).
Brugmansia x candida
Gardenia jasminoides
Hoya carnosa and H.lanceolata
subsp. bella
Jasmine, Jasminum polyanthum
Stephanotis floribunda
a Trick number two
Another option is to put your pots on a wet
towel on the drainboard. Place one end
of the towel in the sink. Fill the sink with
water and it will seep up the towel and
keep the soil in the pots damp.
385
<<
PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
Bathroom oasis
Hot and steamy, the bathroom is an ideal environment for ferns. Their delicate fronds soften the lines of
ceramic, metal, and glass, and a quick shower once a week helps keep them in excellent health. If you
have no shelf space to fit a fern or two, suspend a hanging basket from the ceiling (see pp.370–371).
TIME TO COMPLETE
30 minutes
Fern choices
YOU WILL NEED
Decorative containers
Plastic pots that fit inside
Pieces of plastic
House plant potting mix
Slow-release fertilizer granules
Gravel or moss
Adiantum capillus-veneris
Asplenium nidus
Most, but not all, ferns like the moist conditions in a bathroom, so check
individual plant labels before buying. Match your plants with smooth ceramic,
glass, or rust-proof metal containers that contrast well with the textured fronds.
FOLIAGE EFFECTS
For large bathrooms, the spreading, bushy foliage of a dwarf tree fern works well, but if
your space is limited, try small, slow-growing brake or button ferns (Pteris and Pellaea).
Asparagus ferns, with their feathery foliage, look delicate but are deceptively easy to
keep. They are not, in fact, true ferns at all, and adapt to a wide range of conditions. If
you opt for a hanging basket, the tree-dwelling staghorn fern will provide a focal point.
POT UP THE FERNS
If you bought your ferns in pots that
fit into your decorative containers,
simple add slow-release fertilizer granules
to the potting mix. If not, repot them. In a
new plastic pot, put a few pieces of plastic
in the base, then add a layer of potting
mix. Tip a fern out of its old pot and place
it on top. Fill in around it with more
potting mix and fertilizer granules.
SITING AND AFTERCARE
Fit the potted ferns into your
containers, add a layer of gravel or
moss on top of the potting mix, and place
them in a shady spot. Water the Adiantum
well throughout the year—the leaves will
shrivel if the potting mix dries out. The
Asplenium needs plenty of water in spring
and summer, but keep the potting mix
just moist in the winter months.
o Hungry ferns
Feed the bird’s nest fern (Asplenium) and
delicate maidenhair fern (Adiantum) regularly
in summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer.
1 Asparagus setaceus ‘Nanus’; e12 in (30 cm) 2 Dwarf tree fern, Blechnum gibbum;
h30 in (75 cm) s24 in (60 cm) 3 Pteris ensiformis ‘Evergemiensis’; e12 in (30 cm)
4 Pellaea rotundifolia; h12 in (30 cm) s24 in (60 cm) 5 Staghorn fern, Platycerium
bifurcatum; h3 ft (90 cm) s4 ft (1.2 m) 6 Asparagus densiflorus ‘Myersii’; e16 in (40 cm)
387
388 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Create a desert bowl
Cacti have a reputation for sitting around in corners getting dusty and barely growing, but use them
in a new way and they come to life. They look great planted in small groups, and given a sand mulch
such a group becomes a funky and kitsch desert scene. All it needs is a miniature cowboy.
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT ITS BEST
Early summer
TIME TO COMPLETE
1½ hours
YOU WILL NEED
Shallow planting bowl
Crocks or pebbles
Cacti soil
Washed sand
Newspaper
Spoon
Heavy-duty gloves
Watering can
Miniature cacti
This selection includes
Cleistocactus strausii,
Mammillaria hahniana,
Opuntia tuna, and
Rebutia species
BEFORE YOU START
Cacti famously survive
on little water, but if
you want them to grow and
flower they should actually
be watered regularly during
the growing season. Giving
them a thorough watering
before planting will help the
roots make good contact with
the new soil, and they should
grow very well.
AID DRAINAGE
All cacti hate to sit
in water, so make sure
it will run freely through the
growing medium, and out of
the bottom of the pot. The
container should have lots of
drainage holes, covered by
a layer of pebbles or crocks,
to prevent the soil from
clogging up the holes.
SET OUT THE PLANTS
Don your protective gloves and start arranging your
plants. If you have chosen the position for each of your
cacti before you start, planting will be easier and you are
more likely to end up with a good overall effect. It makes
sense to put smaller ones at the front and larger ones at the
back, but also consider planting those with different habits,
textures, and flower color next to each other.
FILL IN THE GAPS
PLANTING TIPS
Once the plants are in
position, use a spoon to
carefully fill the gaps between
them with a cacti soil. Add small
amounts of soil at a time and
keep firming it down with the
back of a spoon to ensure that
there are no air holes left
around the plant roots.
Wrap a folded strip
of newspaper around
the top of the plant. This
will help you slide it out of
its pot and maneuver it into
the larger planter without
getting spines or fine hairs
in your fingers. It also
protects the plant.
WATER IN
BRUSH OFF
SOIL
Water all the plants
in well. In summer,
they can be watered
whenever the surface of
the soil dries out. In winter,
they should be left dry;
start watering again
sparingly when you see
signs of growth in spring.
No matter how
careful you are, some soil
will inevitably get caught
in the cactus spines and
hairs. Use a soft brush to
remove it and to keep
the plants looking clean
and neat.
APPLY A
SAND MULCH
Use the spoon
to spread fine sand
around the surface of
the planter. This helps
water quickly drain
away from the
surface, preventing
rot, and gives the planter an authentic desertlike appearance.
Set your arrangement in a bright, sunny position.
TOP TIP: WATERING OVERFILLED POTS
Cacti are often sold
when the plants are
almost overflowing
the sides of their pots,
making it tricky to water
them properly before
planting. Sit these in a
container of water until
the root ball is damp.
SELECTIONS >>
390 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Desert dwellers
Cacti create intrigue with their weird shapes, fierce spines, and surprisingly
vivid flowers. Together with succulents, these easy plants are perfect for
a sunny windowsill. Most remain small when grown as houseplants, but
others, like the silver jade plant, will make sizeable specimens. Water from
spring to summer, allowing the soil to dry between doses, and in winter,
reduce this to once a month for succulents and not at all for cacti.
All of these plants need a sunny site and minimal watering (see opposite) 1 Haworthia attenuata
f. clariperla; hs5 in (12 cm)
2 Parodia penicillata; h12 in (30 cm) s5 in (12 cm)
3 Parodia
magnifica; h6 in (15 cm) s18 in (45 cm) 4 Echinocereus pulchellus; h2 in (5 cm) s6 in (15 cm)
5 Plush plant, Echiveria pulvinata; h12 in (30 cm) s20 in (50 cm)
pseudotruncatella subsp. dentritica; hs1½ in (4 cm)
6 Living stone, Lithops
7 Flaming Katy, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana;
hs16 in (40 cm) 8 Silver jade plant, Crassula arborescens; Eto 24 in (60 cm) in a pot
9 Echinopsis multiplex; h10 in (25 cm) s12 in (30 cm) 0 Aloe aristata; h5 in (12 cm)
s12 in (30 cm) q Mammillaria blossfeldiana; hs2 in (5 cm)
PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
391
SELECTIONS >>
<<
<<
PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
Perfect presents
Poinsettias are classic Christmas plants, bringing a splash of festive
red and green to the table or windowsill. An attractive bowl, planted
up with one or two, makes a cheery winter gift.
FIND THE IDEAL SPOT
To keep them looking good, give
poinsettias a sunny, south-facing
windowsill, or bright filtered light. Don’t
press them close to a cold windowpane
however, because this can damage the
leaves. Keep them at about 68°F (20°C)
during the day, and cooler at night, to
prolong the display.
WATERING AND FEEDING
Poinsettias should be watered
regularly and kept evenly moist.
Never let plants sit in water; always
empty their saucers or planters shortly
after watering.
GETTING IT TO BLOOM AGAIN
With year-round care, you can get
a plant to perform again. Water it
until mid-spring, then let it dry out and
allow the stems to shrivel. Keep it cool.
At the end of spring, cut all growth to a
couple of inches above the soil and repot
it in new soil. Water well and keep it
warm, feeding it with houseplant fertilizer
when new growth appears. A month
later, move the plant outside to a shady
spot, pinching out the growing tips in
midsummer, before returning it indoors.
Give it a sunny spot, watering and feeding
regularly; then from mid-autumn, keep
the plant in total darkness between 5pm
and 8am. It will then re-flower and
produce colorful bracts.
TOP TIP: LEAF DROP
It is common for a few poinsettia
leaves to turn yellow and drop off
when you first bring them home.
Don’t be alarmed, the plant is just
reacting to its new living conditions.
Poinsettia gallery
Many colorful cultivars
are available, and grow
to about h12 in (30 cm)
s16in (40cm).
1 Euphorbia
pulcherrima
‘Freedom White’
2 ‘Red Fox
Infinity Red’
3 ‘Sonora’
4 ‘Spotlight Pink’
393
394 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Encourage plants to flower
There are some house plants that will flower prolifically whatever you do with them. However, there are
others that, having been chosen for their glorious flowers, only ever seem to sprout more leaves. Every
house plant requires slightly different care to make it bloom again, plus a degree of patience.
Peace lilies
This plant is one of the trickiest to encourage back into bloom.
If you try these tips, and still have no luck, keep it and grow
it for its attractive, swordlike leaves instead.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO START
Spring
AT ITS BEST
Spring
Peace lily, Spathiphyllum
Container
House plant soil
TIME TO COMPLETE
1 hour
ASSESS THE PROBLEM
Take care not to feed
your peace lily too
much. Feeding may initiate
flowering, but it often has
the opposite effect, leading
to more leaves at the
expense of blooms.
REPOT IF CRAMPED
Peace lilies will tolerate
small pots unless their
roots are severely cramped,
causing the plant to become
water-stressed. Transferring
it to a slightly larger pot can
lead to a flush of new flowers.
CHOOSE A BRIGHT LOCATION
Poor light is the main reason why peace lilies don't
reflower. Although these plants will tolerate quite deep
shade and grow reasonably well in dull corners, they actually
require soft, indirect light in order to flower. Position them on
a north-facing windowsill, or somewhere within a few feet of a
brighter window, but shielded from direct sunlight. The plant will
then flower at various intervals throughout the year.
Other difficult plants
House plants originate from all over the world, and naturally
require different conditions in order to flower. The trick is to
mimic these at home to coax reluctant types to bloom.
BROMELIAD
The main part of a bromeliad dies after flowering, leaving new
shoots to take its place. These can either be grown on as a group,
or divided and grown on for a few years until mature. Once the
bromeliad is as large as your original plant was when it flowered,
place a clear plastic bag over it for a week, with a ripe apple
inside. The apple releases ethylene, a gas that initiates flowering.
CLIVIA
CHRISTMAS CACTUS
For this beautiful spring- and
summer-flowering bulb
to flower, it needs a period
of cold dormancy. While it
likes a warm spot for most
of the year, from late autumn
to late winter, keep it dry and
at around 50°F (10°C). Water
again from early spring, and
give it a liquid feed every
other week. As growth
begins, move the plant to a warmer spot to flower, after which
you should water it slightly less and begin the cycle again. Clivias
actually likes to be pot-bound, so repot infrequently.
To flower well, Christmas cacti,
Schlumbergera, need plenty
of light during the summer.
If grown indoors, keep them
on a sunny windowsill. If
placed outside, shade them
a little to prevent them from
scorching. To persuade them
to flower, they then require
short days and long nights.
So, from autumn to Christmas,
keep them in a room that is
not lit at night, such as a spare
room or a child’s bedroom.
MOTH ORCHID
If the growing conditions are right, it is fairly easy to get beautiful
moth orchids, Phalaenopsis, to reflower. They don’t like too much
light, so grow them on a west- or east-facing windowsill during
winter, and in a shadier spot in summer. Water weekly in summer
with rainwater, taking care to avoid the crown. Reduce watering
in winter. If you have a plant in flower, just as the last bloom is
fading, trim the spike slightly below where the first flower
opened. A bud there will sprout a second flower spike, which
itself can be trimmed to give a third. To encourage a moth orchid
to flower again from scratch, keep it humid (see p.374), give it
a diluted feed once a month, and keep it at around 59°F (15°C)
at night and 70–77°F (21–25°C) during the day. This fluctuation,
combined with feeding and humidity, will initiate new flowers.
396 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Silver splash
Begonias come in many forms, and these elegant foliage types make handsome features in a modern
indoor arrangement (right). Choose tall simple containers to contrast with the heavily textured leaves,
partner them with small-leaved trailing plants, and set them in a line or up a few steps.
YOU WILL NEED
WHEN TO START
Any time
AT ITS BEST
All year round
TIME TO COMPLETE
2 hours
Silver-leaved Begonia
rex hybrids
Pilea depressa
Tall metal container
Plastic tray, such as
vegetable packaging,
or thick plastic bag
Plastic pots
Gravel
Houseplant potting mix
Caring for begonias
Begonia rex hybrids come in many colors and forms, but
all require the same treatment. Feed them fortnightly in
summer and once a month in winter, and keep them away
from bright sunlight to prevent the foliage from scorching.
FOLIAGE NEEDS
Although they dislike strong sun, begonias produce the best
colors in bright, diffused light, and prefer a temperature of
64–70°F (18–21°C). Watering is the key to success, since they
are prone to rotting if given too much or too little. Every two
weeks, remove the plastic pots from the container, and place
them in a bowl of water that reaches just below the rims.
Allow moisture to seep up from the bottom, and when the
top of the soil is wet, take them out and leave to drain.
LINE THE CONTAINERS
If your container has drainage holes, place a deep plastic
tray in the bottom to prevent water from leaking out, or
line it with a thick plastic bag. Then add gravel to the bottom.
Also buy plastic pots that fit neatly into the container.
ARRANGE THE PLANTS
Cover the drainage holes
of the plastic pots with
gravel, top up with soil, and
plant the begonias and Pilea
(one in each pot). Water and
allow to drain. Arrange the pots
in the container, adding more
gravel to raise them up to the
correct level, as required.
Begonias come in an array of
spectacular colors and forms.
Specialist nurseries offer the
widest choice, and most offer
an online service:
1 ‘Martin Johnson’
2 ‘Benitochiba’
3 ‘Tiny Bright’
SELECTIONS >>
398 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
>>
Winter flowers
When it’s cold and gray outside, you need some indoor color to brighten
things up. Lots of house plants flower over winter, and you will appreciate
them all the more for their excellent timing. From dependable stalwarts,
such as primulas and African violets, to exotic clivias, there is a winterflowering house plant to suit every taste. Some, such as jasmine, provide
delicious scents that will remind you of the warmer months to come.
PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME
A full light B partial shade (bright but filtered light) C full shade
E water lightly—only when the top couple of inches of soil are dry
F water frequently—once or twice a week in the growing season
1 Pentas lanceolata; h20 in (50 cm) s16 in (40 cm) BF 2 African violet, Saintpaulia; h6 in
(15 cm) s16 in (40 cm) BE 3 Cyclamen persicum ‘Sierra White’; h9 in (23 cm) s8 in (20 cm)
BE 4 Clivia miniata; h18 in (45 cm) s12 in (30 cm) AE 5 Flaming Katy, Kalanchoe
blossfeldiana; hs16 in (40 cm) BF 6 Cymbidium ‘Showgirl’; hs18 in (45 cm) BE 7 Primula
obconica; h12 in (30 cm) s10 in (25 cm) BE 8 Winter-flowering begonia; h12 in (30 cm) s18 in
(45 cm) Be 9 Jasmine, Jasminum polyanthum; hup to 10 ft (3 m) s3 ft (1 m) Be 0 Flamingo
flower, Anthurium andraeanum; h24 in (60 cm) s12 in (30 cm) BF
399
SELECTIONS >>
<<
Plant Care
To care for your plants well it’s important to provide them
with sufficient water and fertilizer, and to keep your garden
free of weeds. Shrubs and some trees also benefit from an
annual pruning to keep them tidy and boost new growth.
Propagating plants is another fun project—dividing perennials
couldn’t be easier; taking cuttings requires a little more skill
but you will soon master the techniques. Finally, learn to
recognize and treat common pests and diseases.
402 PLANT CARE
>>
Dealing with weeds
Thuglike grasses, such as couch, scutch, and twitch grass, as well as broad-leaf weeds, including thistle,
dandelion, and chickweed, all compete with your plants for nutrients, water, and sunlight. They also
spoil the look of displays and take up valuable planting space, so it is vital that you weed them out.
REMOVING ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS
METHODS OF CONTROL
The way in which you control the weeds in your garden depends
partly on whether they are annual plants that grow, make seed,
and die in one year, or perennial types, which survive winter via
tough root systems. Some annuals flower almost continuously
for most of the year and produce vast amounts of seed, so try to
clear them at the start of the growing season before they bloom.
After weeding, apply a mulch and dig over the soil as little as
possible so that you don’t uncover more weed seeds.
Perennial weeds, like dandelions and couch grass, also flower
and seed, but it is their tough roots that make them difficult to
eradicate. Any root fragments that you miss when digging them
up will regrow into new plants, so try to remove every piece.
Most annual weeds are easy to dig up or pull out by hand.
On large areas, use a hoe to sever the stems from the roots
just below soil level, taking care not to cut off your plants
too. Hoe on a dry day, and leave the weeds to die on the
soil surface. Some weeds, such as buttercups, spread by long
stems, called runners, that root when they touch the soil.
Ease out the root systems of young plants with a hand fork .
Contact weedkillers are useful for controlling annual weeds
in paths and gravel, and on bare soil before planting. Always
follow the manufacturers’ instructions. Use a systemic,
glyphosate-based weedkiller for perennial weeds because
this kills the roots, preventing plants from regrowing.
1 Set aside one watering
can to apply weedkiller, and
keep it well away from those
you use for watering.
2 A hand fork is useful for
digging up the roots of weeds
because it loosens the soil,
making them easier to extract.
3 Move your hoe back and
forth along the soil surface so
the blade slices through the
lower stems.
1 Oxalis is a perennial and
produces hundreds of tiny bulbils
that split off and regrow when
you try to dig them up.
2 Many perennial weeds have
drought-resistant taproots that
survive extreme conditions.
3 Annuals have fibrous roots
that can be pulled up easily.
<<
PLANT CARE
Persistent troublemakers
The following rogues gallery will help you identify and control some of the most troublesome weeds. If you do not want
to use weedkillers, eradicating some will be very difficult. Your options are either to starve their roots by continually removing
the leafy shoots, or try blocking out light by covering the ground with black plastic or matting for two years.
1 GROUND ELDER
2 OXALIS
3 HORSETAIL
4 DOCK
This perennial forms a low
mat of dark green leaves. Dig
up young plants before they
flower (above), or cover them
with weed matting or carpet.
If they persist, treat repeatedly
with glyphosate weedkiller.
The cloverlike leaves spread
rapidly, and can invade lawns.
Annuals have explosive seed
pods; perennials have bulbils.
Yellow oxalis in lawns resists
selective weedkillers, so try
autumn scarifying (see p.423).
The roots of this perennial are
hard to pull out since the stems
snap easily. A water-resistant
coating on the stems also helps
them shake off weedkiller, so
crush them before treating with
glyphosate in late summer.
Treat plants when young: dig
the taproot out with a fork, or
use a weeding tool in lawns.
Don’t allow mature plants to
flower, and use a glyphosatebased weedkiller to kill their
extensive root systems.
5 NETTLES
6 JAPANESE KNOTWEED
7 BINDWEED
8 BRAMBLES
Perennial stinging nettles form
a network of root runners that
support a colony of plants.
Wear thick gloves to dig out
the whole root system, or
spray with systemic weedkiller.
Or leave large groups for a
valuable wildlife refuge.
Any root fragments of this
bamboolike thug will regrow.
Repeatedly dig them out over
several seasons; dry and burn
the removed roots. If this fails,
spray with glyphosate-based
weedkiller repeatedly from late
spring to early autumn.
This pretty but persistent
twining perennial disappears
in winter, only to resprout from
fleshy white roots in spring.
Digging it up can spread the
roots; instead, train it up canes
set away from ornamentals,
and spray with glyphosate.
The thorny stems spread rapidly
over other plants and the tips
will root wherever they touch
any soil. Dig out seedlings and
rooted runners. Cut back larger
plants and dig out the woody
base and roots. Spray unplanted
areas with brushwood killer.
403
404 PLANT CARE
>>
Feeding your plants
No matter how good your soil, it will probably need extra nutrients to help plants with specific needs,
or to boost them at key times, like flowering. Always follow the instructions on the label because too
much, or the wrong type of fertilizer, can cause problems, such as plants with all leaves and no flowers.
UNDERSTANDING NUTRIENTS
The three basic elements that plants
require are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P)
and potassium (K). Nitrogen is needed for
leaf and shoot growth, phosphorus for
roots, and potassium helps flowers and
fruits develop. Fertilizer manufacturers list
the nutrient content as a ratio: a general
purpose fertilizer has an N:P:K ratio of
7:7:7, while a tomato feed has a high
concentration of potassium to boost fruit
production, and a fertilizer for lawns or
leafy crops contains mostly nitrogen. Many
fertilizers also include various trace
elements or micronutrients. A plant's
nutrient requirements can depend on its
growth phase, with most needing a
general boost in the spring, and additional
potassium as they fruit or flower.
1 Nitrogen (nitrate) is needed for healthy
leaves. 2 Potassium (potash) boosts the
production of flowers and fruit. 3 For
strong root development, choose a fertilizer
rich in phosphorus (phosphate).
FERTILIZER CHOICES
Your local garden center will offer both organic (derived from plants
and animals) and inorganic (chemically manufactured) fertilizers. Most
are concentrated for convenience and available as liquids, powders that
you dilute in water, or granules. Typical examples of organic fertilizers
are pelleted chicken manure; blood, fish, and bonemeal; liquid seaweed
fertilizer; and homemade plant feeds, such as the diluted liquor from a
wormery, or fertilizers made from soaking comfrey leaves. Inorganic
feeds include sulfate of potash, Growmore, and granular rose feeds.
1 Blood, fish, and bonemeal is a balanced organic fertilizer, applied through
the growing season around flowers and vegetables; cease applications in early
autumn. 2 Slow-release granules, activated by warmth and moisture, give a
steady supply of nutrients in containers and borders. 3 Well-rotted manure
or garden compost is rich in trace elements and soil-conditioning substances.
Dig it in or apply as a surface mulch. 4 Growmore is a balanced chemical
feed used to enrich soil for sowing or planting, and as a top dressing.
<<
PLANT CARE
Mulching
Materials spread on top of the ground, usually around plants, are called mulches.
They can be practical—feeding the soil, suppressing weeds, retaining moisture,
or insulating roots in winter—or mainly decorative, applied for visual effect.
APPLYING ORGANIC MULCHES
Mulches are applied at different times
depending on their purpose. For example,
bark chips are spread over the soil after
planting to suppress weeds. An organic
mulch, such as manure, garden compost,
chipped bark, or cocoa shells, must be laid
over moist soil, whether in spring, after
autumn and winter rains, or after watering.
Some mulches, especially bark, use up
nutrients temporarily as they decompose,
so before laying them, apply a nitrogenrich fertilizer, such as fish meal. Lay
organic mulches in a layer 4in (10cm)
deep so they continue to provide cover
as they slowly decompose and feed the
soil. Replenish these mulches every year.
a Moist mulch
Organic mulches help retain moisture but
if laid too close to plant stems can cause them
to rot, so keep them at a safe distance.
PRACTICAL SOLUTIONS
a Useful coverings
Spread landscape fabric over the soil prior to planting to prevent weed
growth (left). Use straw to keep strawberries clean and dry (right).
Man-made mulches offer many benefits. Weed membrane or
landscape fabric is a semipermeable material that blocks out light
but allows moisture through. Use it on low-maintenance beds, or
on weed-ridden ground. Lay it before planting (see also pp.76–77)
and cover with a natural bark or gravel, or a decorative mulch.
Black plastic does not allow moisture through, but it warms the
soil and kills off weeds when laid over vegetable beds in spring.
Straw insulates the soil, and protects tender plants in winter.
It is also used to raise crops, such as strawberries and zucchinis,
off the ground, reducing fungal and slug problems. A think layer
of straw will protect the roots of vulnerable plants from frost.
DECORATIVE OPTIONS
Mulches that don't decompose are
useful as decorative garden surfaces.
They are particularly effective when
laid over landscape fabric or membrane,
which reduces weed growth and helps
prevent soil mixing in with the mulch
and spoiling the effect. For a modern
feel, try colored crushed glass or slate
shards. Cover small areas, like the tops
of pots and containers, with beads,
crushed and whole shells, or polished
pebbles. Natural pebbles blend well with
gravel over larger areas, and can create
a beach effect when laid in swathes.
1 Pebbles come in different colors and sizes. Ask to see a
sample out of the bag, wetted to show the true color.
2 Crushed glass is usually a recycled product, milled to take
off the sharp edges. Use bright colors for design highlights.
3 Slate chips in various grades and subtle shades of dark gray
have sharp edges, so they are unsuitable for children's areas.
4 Crushed shells are recycled from the seafood industry.
405
406 PLANT CARE
>>
Watering your plants
All plants need watering, but some need more than others. Concentrate on plants in containers, where
the soil dries out relatively quickly; newly planted specimens that haven’t yet developed a strong enough
root system to cope on their own; and fruits and vegetables at key stages in their growth cycle.
PRESERVE WATER SUPPLIES
Water is a precious commodity, but if you irrigate only those
plants that need it, and water in the cool of the morning or in
the evening, you can greatly reduce your impact on supplies.
Other ways to minimize water usage are to add moistureretentive gel crystals to containers, and mulch borders every
year after it has rained. Trees, shrubs, and perennials will also
need watering less frequently during the first few months if you
plant them when the soil is naturally moist in autumn, winter,
and early spring. Lay turf in late winter and early spring, too, and
it will usually establish well without the need for extra irrigation.
After planting, encourage deep rooting by watering thoroughly
and then leaving for 7–14 days before watering again, rather than
giving frequent small doses. The water will then sink deep into
the soil and encourage roots to follow. Also, if planting in the rain
shadow of walls and hedges use drought-tolerant species.
a No buts about water butts
Save water by installing water butts around your property, connecting
them to the rainwater downspouts. Metal or plastic butts are widely
available, or choose something more attractive like this wooden barrel.
Watering methods
Make the most of your water supplies and save yourself
time and energy by using a watering method that suits the
job at hand. A watering can is ideal for small areas where
you want to target water accurately; hoses are best for large
beds, but use them with care to avoid waste.
WATERING BY HAND
If you only have a few plants or pots to water, use a watering
can, and pour slowly so it has a chance to soak into the roots;
remove fine roses from cans unless watering new plantings.
Direct water to the roots of your plants—they do not absorb
water through their leaves so spraying overhead is not only
wasteful but means that less moisture reaches the soil. Also
avoid flowers and fruits, which may rot if too wet. Mound up
the soil around the base of large plants to create a reservoir
in which water will collect and sink down to the root area.
When hosing beds and borders, focus the spray on the soil,
and turn it off as you move between planted areas. Longhandled hoses are useful if you have lots of pots and baskets
to reach—again, turn the flow off between each container.
a Spraying from a distance
Long-handled hoses allow you to reach hanging baskets with ease,
and also to direct water to less accessible plants, such as vegetables
in a large bed, without treading on the soil.
<<
PLANT CARE
AUTOMATIC SYSTEMS
Relatively easy to install, automatic watering systems can save
hours of work in the garden; attach a timer, and they will water
your plot in your absence. Most come in kit form and allow you
to design a system that suits your garden. Kits typically include
a network of main pipes into which you insert fine feeder pipes
that take water directly to individual plants or pots. These
terminate in small drip nozzles, held just above soil level, that
gradually release water, which drains down around the roots.
Check your watering system every few weeks to ensure plants
aren’t being under- or over-watered, and adjust individual flow
regulators as necessary. Turn off nozzles when no longer required.
o Timed to perfection
Set water timers to come on every day or week, in the morning or evening
to minimize evaporation, and alter the program if the weather changes.
LEAKY AND SEEP HOSES
Less sophisticated than automatic irrigation systems, these
perforated hosepipes are perfect for watering lots of plants at
the same time. Unlike a regular hose, water gradually seeps out
at soil level and penetrates deeply. Lay one along a row of thirsty
vegetables, or weave it between newly planted shrubs and
perennials. Attach the hose to a water butt, which may need
to be raised up to provide a gravitational flow of water, or fit
on to an outdoor tap. Lift your hose and reposition it as needed.
Slow-release watering p
The most efficient watering method if used correctly, seep
hoses trickle water into the soil exactly where it is needed.
WATERING CONTAINERS
Although large containers need watering
less frequently than small ones, they may
still require water every day in summer.
Porous terracotta pots dry out quickly, so
consider lining them with plastic before
planting (see p.409). Don’t rely on rain to
water your pots because the soil often
remains dry after a shower. When
planting, leave a gap of at least 1 in (2 cm)
between the soil and the pot’s rim to
allow water to collect there. A bark or
gravel mulch helps retain moisture.
o Preventing soil erosion
Direct water onto a piece of broken pot to help
prevent compost being washed off the roots.
TOP TIP: WATERING TREES
Help trees establish by inserting
perforated drainage tubing into the
hole, close to the roots, at planting
time. Water poured into the exposed
end is directed to the root area with
no wastage. Mulch, or use a tree mat,
to deter weeds and to seal in moisture.
407
408 PLANT CARE
>>
Frost protection
Some plants and containers need a little help
to get them through cold winters but they can
be left outside if you provide some protection
when temperatures dip below freezing.
The big cover-up
Tender plants must be brought inside in winter because they
die when exposed to freezing temperatures, but those that
can survive a few degrees of frost should survive outside in
all but the coldest regions.
PLANTS TO PROTECT
Many slightly tender plants survive low temperatures but not
cold, wet soils, so ensure yours drains freely before planting (see
pp.14–15). Other plants are not killed by frost, but their flowers
may be damaged. Examples include peach trees, magnolias, and
camellias, which suffer when frosted blooms thaw too quickly in
warm morning sun. Young leaves and buds of hardy plants can
also be sensitive to frost, so don’t feed in late summer because it
promotes vulnerable new growth. Also, allow herbaceous plants
to die down naturally so that the leaves fall over the plant,
forming a protective blanket, and apply a thick mulch over those
that may suffer in low temperatures, like Alstroemeria or diascias.
a Ice-laden maple
Acer palmatum cultivars are hardy, so just enjoy the sparkle
of their vibrant deciduous autumn leaves laced with frost.
TOP TIP: OVERWINTER BANANAS AND TREE FERNS
Popular for tropical gardens, Musa basjoo is one of the hardiest
bananas and tolerates winters outside if protected from cold,
wet conditions. First, cut down the stems and remove the
leaves. Attach chicken wire to bamboo canes set around the
plant to form a cage, and pack it with straw. Treat tree ferns in
the same way: make a cage around the plant, fold the fronds
over the top of the stem, and pack straw around it.
a Straw blanket
Use chicken wire to secure
a straw blanket over
frost-sensitive plants that
prefer dry soil conditions.
o Star fright
The flowers of star magnolias
are damaged by frost; protect
them with garden fleece.
a Make a waterproof hat
Both bananas and tree ferns suffer in wet winters, so top the wire
cage with a waterproof covering, such as clear plastic sheeting. In
very cold regions you can also add a fleece wrapper. Remove the
protection in late spring or when you see new growth.
<<
PLANT CARE
Cloches for crops
Some vegetables that overwinter in the soil benefit from a
protective cloche or a layer of straw. Likewise, crops that are
sown early in spring may grow more quickly if kept snug
when frosts strike. A wide variety of cloches is available to
buy, or make one yourself from recycled materials.
CHOOSING A COVER
Winter root crops, such as parsnips, carrots, and leeks, are difficult
to lift when the soil is frozen, so cover them with a layer of
insulating straw in autumn. Cold frames are ideal for spring-sown
frost-hardy seedlings in trays or pots, which will be transplanted
outside later in the year, while a cloche is best for crops that are
sown in situ in early spring, such as lettuce, arugula, and Oriental
greens, or for overwintered vegetables like broad beans.
Cloches can be bought already constructed or as kits, or if you
want frost protection for just a few weeks each year, a homemade type made from a few sheets of clear plastic may suffice.
Alternatively, make a more permanent tunnel from wire hoops
covered with clear plastic; leave one end open for ventilation.
a Store-bought option
Cloches are an investment
and should last for many
years; choose from pricey
decorative glass types to
cheaper plastic models.
o Home-made solution
This cloche is easy to
make with two sheets
of clear plastic pinned
together with pegs.
Wrap up your pots
Container plants can suffer in winter on two fronts: roots are more vulnerable
in pots because they afford less insulation than the soil in the ground, and the
pots themselves may crack or break during icy periods.
CONTAINER CARE
Some containers are more vulnerable to
frost damage than others. Stone, metal,
and plastic pots will sail through winters
unscathed, while terracotta often cracks
in frosty conditions. Terracotta suffers
because it is porous and when moisture
from the soil and rain leaches into it and
then expands as it turns to ice, the pot
cracks. So, unless you pay a premium for
containers that have been fired to high
a Pot protection
Line terracotta pots with bubble wrap to keep
them from absorbing moisture and cracking
when the water turns to ice in cold weather.
o Hessian wrapper
Wrap tender plants and vulnerable pots with
hessian or bubble wrap to keep them warm.
temperatures to reduce their porosity,
you will need to take steps to make sure
yours stay intact. Either remove plants
and soil and store pots inside, or, if they
are housing a prized plant, wrap them
up with hessian or bubble wrap. Cover
the soil, too, so that it does not become
saturated. Another tip is to line the pot
with bubble wrap before you plant it up,
thereby forming a barrier between the
soil and the terracotta.
Slightly tender potted plants are best
wrapped in horticultural fleece in the
winter. Also tie together the leaves of
strappy plants, such as cordylines, to
protect their crowns from snow and ice.
409
410 PLANT CARE
>>
Basic pruning techniques
Some shrubs and trees require little pruning apart from removing dead or damaged stems, but for many
others an annual trim is essential. Regular pruning can improve a plant’s appearance, stimulate the
production of fruit and flowers, keep specimens youthful and vigorous, and encourage bolder foliage.
WHAT TO PRUNE
Routine pruning maintains the health
and appearance of woody plants. In late
winter or early spring, before the leaves
of deciduous shrubs and trees appear,
look at their overall shape in detail and
identify branches that need removing
or shortening. Also note any congested
growth in the center, which can encourage
disease. Then, cut away dead or damaged
stems to healthy tissue; crossing branches
that are rubbing and liable to create a
wound; and stems that are no longer
producing fruit or flowers.
1 Remove stems and branches growing at
odd angles that look unsightly and may rub
against one another, creating entry points
for infection. 2 Cut back to young wood,
which is often a different color and texture
to the older, thicker stems. 3 Remove
dead or infected wood to prevent further
die-back or disease entering healthy tissue.
HOW TO PRUNE
When pruning, use sharp clippers for thin
stems, or a pruning saw for wood that is
thicker than a pencil. Loppers are useful
for chopping up prunings into more
manageable pieces. Always make your cut
just above a bud to avoid the stump dying
back into healthy wood, and make clean
cuts that will heal more quickly and are less
prone to infection. To avoid wood ripping or
splitting when cut, take the weight off long
branches in stages (see opposite).
a Slanting cut for alternate buds
Cut to an outward facing bud, slanting the cut
so that water will run away from the bud.
a Straight cut for opposite buds
Where buds are arranged in pairs, cut straight
across the top. Two shoots will emerge.
<<
PLANT CARE
Cutting branches
When possible, remove tree branches when young, because the cuts heal more
quickly. Most should be pruned in late winter, but wait until mid- to late summer
for hornbeam (Carpinus), pears (Pyrus), plums and cherries (Prunus species).
MAKE AN UNDERCUT FIRST
Take some weight off the branch
first to prevent it tearing close to the
trunk. Cut partly through the underside of
the branch; then saw from the top a little
further up. Allow the branch to snap off.
TOP TIP: KEEP SAFE
Wear thick gardening gloves when
pruning or trimming, and use wellmaintained tools appropriate to the task.
Wear goggles and ear protectors when
using a hedge trimmer. Don’t cut above
head height; use ladders or platforms
and make sure that they are stable
and secure. Undergo approved safety
training and wear specialist clothing
before using a chainsaw.
CUT CLOSE TO TRUNK
Remove the final stump by cutting
close to the trunk, but not flush
with it. Make an angled cut away from
the tree, just beyond the crease in the
bark where the branch meets the trunk.
ALLOW THE WOUND TO HEAL
The result is a clean cut that
leaves the tree’s healing tissue
intact, speeding up its recovery. The
wound may bleed after pruning, but will
soon form a layer of protective bark.
Spur pruning
This technique encourages climbers, wall shrubs, and trained fruit trees to flower and
fruit more freely. Shortening the shoots that grow from the main stems promotes the
remaining buds to produce far more productive stems than would normally appear.
FIND A HEALTHY SHOOT
Identify strong growing shoots and
trim back to two or three buds from
the main stems to form short branches
or “spurs.” Make a slanting cut to channel
rainwater away from the chosen bud. This
helps prevent disease and die back.
CREATE SHORT SPURS
The “spurs” of this climbing rose will
each produce two or three flowering
stems in the forthcoming season. You can
also spur prune wall-trained Chaenomeles,
Pyracantha, and Ceanothus to keep plants
neat and blooming well.
411
412 PLANT CARE
>>
Pruning shrubs
The best time to prune deciduous climbers and shrubs depends on whether they bloom on growth
produced in the same or previous years. Generally, those that flower after midsummer are pruned
hard in spring. Those that bloom in winter, spring, and early summer are pruned soon after flowering.
EARLY-FLOWERING SHRUBS
This group contains spring show-stoppers,
such as forsythia and flowering currants
(Ribes), as well as early-summer bloomers,
including Philadelphus, Weigela, Deutzia,
and Spiraea ‘Arguta’. These all flower on
stems that were produced the previous
year; prune them just after flowering so
that new growth can ripen throughout
the summer. Remove dead and diseased
growth, and cut back old flowering stems,
leaving new shoots to take over. Thin
overcrowded growth, cutting a third to a
fifth of the oldest stems to ground level.
Apply an all-purpose granular fertilizer,
water well, and lay a deep organic mulch.
ENCOURAGE FLOWERING
Prune early-flowering shrubs, such
as honeysuckle, Lonicera x purpusii,
in early summer after flowering. Cut a third
of the oldest stems to 12 in (30 cm) from
the ground with a pruning saw, reducing
the length gradually to prevent tearing.
MAINTAIN VIGOR
Trim back tall stems to stimulate
new buds to shoot lower down the
stems and make a bushier plant. This also
gives new growth room to develop and
mature, and still leaves sufficient old wood
to bloom the following year.
LATE-FLOWERING SHRUBS
This group contains shrubs and climbers that flower in late summer and autumn, such as
butterfly bush (Buddleja), shrubby mallow (Lavatera), Hydrangea paniculata, Perovskia,
and hardy fuchsia, as well as late-flowering clematis, like C. viticella (see p.414). Prune all
the stems back hard in late winter or early spring to promote lots of new flowering shoots.
SHORTEN STEMS
To prevent tall, fast-growing shrubs,
such as butterfly bush, Buddleja,
from being damaged by autumn storms,
prune the tallest stems after flowering.
Then carry out the main pruning in spring.
CUT BACK HARD
In spring, remove long whippy
stems and thin twiggy growth with
clippers to reveal the main framework of
branches. Using a pruning saw, cut back
to create a low structure of healthy stems.
ENCOURAGE LARGER BLOOMS
Pruning encourages more flowers
and healthier growth. It breathes
new life into old shrubs, and can even
increase the longevity of short-lived
plants, such as shrubby mallow, Lavatera.
PRUNING EVERGREENS
TRIM PLANTS LIGHTLY
Many evergreens are not as hardy as
deciduous shrubs and grow more slowly.
They are best pruned sparingly to reduce
their size and keep them tidy after the
frosts, between late spring and late
summer. To avoid removing any blooms,
prune summer-flowering evergreens,
such as Escallonia, when the flowers
have finished. Never prune evergreens
in autumn because any new growth will
not have enough time to harden off
before the frosts return, and could be
damaged. If any stems are harmed by
frost, leave them until the following
spring before removing them.
Shrubs, such as Ceanothus, should be
pruned lightly after flowering since they
may not make new wood if cut back too
hard. Maintain a compact, flower-filled
shrub by pruning long, straggly branches
by 10–12 in (25–30 cm), but leave some of
the shorter stems unpruned to help the
plant maintain its strength. Cut above a
leaf bud to prevent die-back and stimulate
new growth below the cut (see p.410).
Stay in shape p
Spring-flowering ceanothus grow very quickly,
and without annual pruning they soon fill out
their allocated sites and become untidy.
RENOVATING SHRUBS
Old and overgrown deciduous or evergreen shrubs can be cut
back quite severely to rejuvenate them and help them become
productive once more. Those flowering on wood made the
previous year may take a couple of years to bloom again.
CUTTING BACK AN OVERGROWN MAHONIA
o a Cut down to size
To improve the appearance and
performance of this overgrown
mahonia, prune hard after flowering
(midwinter to early spring).
Renovate other evergreen and
deciduous shrubs in the same way.
Shorten the main stems to 2 ft (60 cm) above ground level.
First, remove dead, damaged, and diseased stems. Then,
imagine the regrown plant and maintain a balanced shape
while you cut out the oldest growth, to leave around 5 or 6
strong young stems. Prune these to 12–16 in (30–40 cm) from
the ground, making sloping cuts to deflect the rain.
PRUNE FOR FOLIAGE DISPLAYS
Many deciduous shrubs are valued for their brightly colored
foliage, which grows on young stems and can be encouraged
by hard pruning. Some shrubs should be cut back severely
every year, such as the colored-leaved forms of elder
(Sambucus), spiraea, Indian bean tree (Catalpa bignonioides),
and smoke bush (Cotinus). Others, like the purple filbert
(Corylus maxima ‘Purpurea’), should be pruned every two
years. To aid their recovery after pruning, water them well
and apply an all-purpose fertilizer. Then add a thick mulch.
CUT BACK A SMOKE BUSH
Prune the shrub down to a stout framework of branches in
spring, before the leaf buds burst. Use a pruning saw to reduce
the height initially, then cut all the healthy stems to 2 ft (60 cm)
from the ground. Pruning also keeps the shrub more compact.
a p Larger and brighter
The regrowth on this
previously hard-pruned
smoke bush, Cotinus,
(above) has larger, more
colorful leaves, giving a
glowing autumn display.
414 PLANT CARE
>>
How to prune clematis
Clematis are some of our best-loved flowering climbers but although they are generally easy to grow
given the right conditions, there is often confusion about how best to prune them. Some flower well
if pruned lightly, while others thrive when cut back hard. The trick is to identify which type you have.
IDENTIFYING CLEMATIS
Clematis species and cultivars are divided
into three main pruning groups; the plant
label should tell you what type you have.
A broad rule of thumb, as with many
deciduous flowering shrubs and climbers,
is that early-flowering (spring and early
summer) types require just a light tidy-up,
while late-flowering (mid- to late summer
and autumn) clematis should be pruned
hard in late winter.
PRUNING GROUP 1
This group contains the vigorous, latespring-flowering, Clematis montana and
earlier blooming evergreen, C. armandii;
the late-winter-flowering C. cirrhosa, and
dainty C. alpina and C. macropetala which
both flower in mid-spring. These need
little pruning once established, except to
remove dead and damaged stems.
PRUNING GROUP 2
This group includes the flamboyant largeflowered cultivars, like ‘Nelly Moser’. Wood
made the previous year bears flowers in early
summer, but these plants can also bloom again
in late summer on stems made the same year.
In early spring, follow the stems from the top
down to new growth, and cut just above it.
Prune to a healthy shoot p
Remove the dead and damaged tops of the stems,
which will look brown and dry, and cut back to green
buds from which flowering side shoots will grow.
PRUNING GROUP 3
Clematis that flower from midsummer through to the autumn make up this group,
and include the prolific small-flowered C. viticella hybrids, and forms of C. texensis.
The yellow autumn-flowering C. tangutica and C. orientalis also belong here.
PRUNE BACK TOP GROWTH
a Trim back lightly
After flowering, remove any wayward shoots
and damaged growth. This also helps to reveal
the attractive fluffy seedheads.
When left unpruned, these
clematis form flowers at the top
of the plant, leaving long, straggly bare
stems beneath. To prevent this, cut back
the tangle of shoots, removing them
from their supports. Do this in late winter
before the buds have started to break.
PRUNE TO HEALTHY BUDS
Then cut all the stems back hard.
It may look drastic, but pruning
the stems to within 12 in (30 cm) of the
ground encourages plants to develop a
strong network of new shoots. Cut to just
above a pair of healthy buds. Prune less
radically if you want to maintain height.
Pruning roses
Modern floribunda and hybrid tea roses benefit from hard pruning to
encourage new flowering shoots, while shrub roses require relatively
gentle treatment. Pruning also helps control the disease blackspot.
FLORIBUNDA ROSES
Also known as cluster-flowered roses,
floribundas produce flushes of blooms
through summer and early autumn.
Compact dwarf floribundas are also called
patio roses, and can be grown in pots. In
early spring, remove dead, diseased, and
crossing stems. Prune the other stems to
outward-facing buds 8–12 in (20–30 cm)
from the ground using sloping cuts.
EXAMPLES OF
FLORIBUNDA
AND PATIO
ROSES
‘Arthur Bell’
‘English Miss’
‘Fellowship’
‘Fragrant Delight’
‘Pretty Lady’
‘Princess of
Wales’
‘Remembrance’
‘Sunset
Boulevard’
‘Sweet Dream’
‘Tall Story’
‘Trumpeter’
o Make a low
framework
When pruning, aim
to leave a framework
of between eight
and ten strong,
healthy stems.
SHRUB AND SPECIES ROSES
Usually flowering once on wood made in previous years, these
should be pruned lightly in early spring. Thin out congested
stems to improve air flow, and remove dead, weak, damaged,
or diseased wood. Also prune some of the oldest stems to
ground level. Cut main stems back by a quarter and slightly
reduce side shoots by a few inches. These roses often grow
quite tall and benefit from being cut back by a third in late
autumn to prevent root damage caused by wind rock.
Prune lightly to prevent disease p
Shorten the main stems by about a quarter to
produce an open-structured framework, allowing
in light and air to help prevent fungal diseases.
HYBRID TEAS
These are large-flowered roses, with some
varieties that repeat bloom, although they
produce just one flower per stem. Prune
in early spring, removing dead, diseased,
and crossing stems. Cut the oldest stems
to the ground, and shorten the remainder
to 6 in (15 cm) from the base. In late
autumn reduce their height by one third to
prevent root damage caused by wind rock.
EXAMPLES OF
TEA ROSES
‘Alexander’
‘Blessings’
‘Deep Secret’
‘Elina’
‘Ingrid Bergman’
‘Just Joey’
‘Lovely Lady’
‘Paul Sherville’
‘Savoy Hotel’
‘Tequila Sunrise’
‘Troika’
‘Warm Wishes’
o Slanting cuts
Leave three to five
strong young stems
after pruning with
cuts angled to allow
water to drain off
the buds.
EXAMPLES OF SHRUB
AND SPECIES ROSES
‘Blanche Double de
Coubert’
‘Boule de Neige’
‘De Resht’
‘Fantin-Latour’
‘Graham Thomas’
‘Louise Odier’
‘Madame Isaac Pereire’
‘Madame Pierre Oger’
‘Maiden’s Blush’
Rosa gallica ‘Versicolor’
‘Souvenir de la
Malmaison’
‘William Lobb’
416 PLANT CARE
>>
Propagating plants
There are many simple techniques to propagate all types of garden plants, from perennials, shrubs, and
climbers to fruit trees. You don’t need specialist equipment; divisions, layers, and some cuttings can be
left to root in the ground with little additional help, although a cold frame is useful for some plants.
Dividing perennials
This easy method can be used to propagate most
herbaceous perennials, and to rejuvenate large, tired
clumps that are no longer flowering well. You can also
divide newly bought perennials, providing they are large
enough, to make the most of your purchases.
PLANTS TO DIVIDE
Achillea
Aster
Bergenia
Campanula
Geranium
Helenium
Heuchera
Hosta
Iris
Ligularia
Monarda
Nepeta
Phlox
Polemonium
Pulmonaria
Rudbeckia
Sedum
Veronica
Bargain borders p
Dividing perennials, such as Achillea and Helenium, in early
spring is an easy and economical way to fill large borders. After
replanting, they will soon bulk up to form new flowering clumps.
DIG UP PLANT
In early spring, select a healthy
clump of plants and water them
well. Cut back any top growth to the
ground. Using a fork, lift the clump, taking
care to keep the whole root ball intact.
DIVIDE WITH FORKS
Cut solid crowns into portions with
a spade or old bread knife. If you
can’t pry other pieces apart by hand, use
two forks back-to-back to split the clump
into smaller sections, ready for replanting.
REPLANT
Discard dead central portions of
overgrown clumps. Replant healthy
hand-sized pieces with strong buds in soil
improved with well-rotted organic matter,
such as manure. Water in well.
<<
PLANT CARE
OTHER LAYERING TECHNIQUES
Basic layering works for a wide range
of shrubs, and by varying the technique,
you can also use it to propagate woody
climbers and fruit bushes.
IVY AND HONEYSUCKLE
Layering shrubs and climbers
Climbers, such as ivy (Hedera, below), and
honeysuckle, Lonicera, often root where
their stems are in contact with the soil.
Either pin stems down yourself in autumn
or spring, or check your plants for any stems
that have rooted naturally. Use a hand fork
to lift any stems with roots, and cut them
between each rooted section to make
new plants, which you can then grow on.
The stems of climbers and shrubs sometimes root when they touch the soil, and
you can harness this tendency to make new plants. This is useful for shrubs, such
as rhododendrons (above), that can be difficult to propagate in other ways.
MAKE A SLANTING CUT
In spring, from the base of the
plant select a flexible stem that
bends to the ground. Remove side stems
and make a shallow slanting cut on the
underside, 12 in (30 cm) from the tip. Dip
the cut in hormone rooting powder.
PLANTS TO LAYER
Aucuba
Chaenomeles
(above)
Cotinus
Erica
Fothergilla
Lonicera
Magnolia
Passiflora
Skimmia
Syringa
Viburnum
Weigela (right)
Wisteria
PEG DOWN STEM INTO SOIL
Use wire staples, or a large stone,
to firmly anchor the wounded
section of stem just below the soil
surface. To aid rooting in poorer soils,
pin the stem into a shallow depression
filled with moist potting soil.
a Climbers for free
Many climbers will root along their stems where
they come into contact with the soil. Peg them
down at intervals to produce new plants.
BLACKBERRIES
In summer, propagate blackberries and
their hybrids by burying the tip of a healthy,
young stem (below) in a hole 4 in (10 cm)
deep. In a few weeks a new shoot will
appear; transplant it the following spring.
417
418 PLANT CARE
>>
How to take cuttings
Given the right conditions, plants can be persuaded to root from stem cuttings in spring or summer, or in
winter from pieces of root. Seal collected cuttings and root material in a plastic bag to keep them fresh.
Root cuttings
With the exception of variegated plants,
which produce only green shoots from
root cuttings, many perennials can be
propagated using this method. Never
take more than a few roots from each
plant, and quickly replace the plants in
the soil. Thin roots, such as those of
phlox (Phlox paniculata), should be laid
horizontally on the soil to root.
SUITABLE PLANTS
Anemone x hybrida
Bear’s breeches, Acanthus
Campanula
Crambe
Dicentra
Globe thistle, Echinops
Plume poppy, Macleaya
Oriental poppy, Papaver orientale
Sea holly, Eryngium
Tree poppy, Romneya
Verbascum
TRIM OFF HEALTHY ROOTS
In midwinter, lift the plant, or
scrape away soil from larger plants
to expose the roots. Cutting close to the
stems (crown), remove three or four fat,
healthy roots, avoiding brittle, damaged,
or woody pieces. Seal in a plastic bag.
PLANT UP
Insert the root cuttings vertically in
pots of soil (with the blunt end at
the top), spacing them 2 in (5 cm) apart.
Lay thinner roots on the surface, covering
them with ½ in (1 cm) of coarse sand or
grit. Water the roots with diluted fungicide
and move pots to a sheltered spot outside.
CUT TOP AND BOTTOM
Cut each root into 2–3 in (5–8 cm)
segments with a sharp knife. Trim
the top end (nearest the crown) straight
across and the bottom at an angle, to
make sure you plant them right end up.
You do not need to do this with thin roots.
AFTERCARE
Cover pots and trays with fleece,
or place them in a cold frame, and
keep the soil damp. The cuttings should be
well rooted in about six months. They may
produce shoots beforehand but wait until
roots appear at the holes at the bottom of
the pots before transplanting.
<<
PLANT CARE
Hardwood cuttings
These are the easiest cuttings to grow, but you need patience, as rooting can take
more than a year. Find a sheltered spot where the cuttings won’t be disturbed, such
as the back of a border. Use this method for deciduous shrubs, trees, roses and fruit.
TAKE A HEALTHY STEM
In autumn, select straight stems,
about the thickness of a pencil
and with plenty of buds, taken from the
current year’s growth. Strip off any leaves
and side shoots. You may be able to take
several cuttings from a single stem.
CUT INTO SECTIONS
Make individual cuttings about 10 in
(25 cm) long. Cut straight along the
bottom just below a bud, and make a
slanted cut above a bud at the top. The
cuts differentiate the top from the bottom,
and allow you to plant the right way up.
a Worth the wait
It can take two or three years for a shrub grown
from a cutting to reach flowering size, so take
a few each year for a constant supply of new
plants. If you don’t have room for them yourself,
your gardening friends will appreciate a gift.
SUITABLE PLANTS
PLANT IN GROUND
Make a narrow V-shaped trench by
inserting a spade about 8 in (20 cm)
in the soil and pushing it forward. On heavy
soil, add horticultural sand to the base to
aid drainage. Insert cuttings 6 in (15 cm)
apart, leaving a few buds above the
surface. These will form the branches of the
new shrub. Firm lightly, label, and water.
POT-GROWN CUTTINGS
For less hardy plants, such as
Cistus, Perovskia, and Santolina,
plant cuttings in pots of free-draining soil.
Trim cuttings to 3–4 in (8–10 cm) long and
plant with the top bud exposed. Protect
from frost by placing pots in a cold frame
or unheated greenhouse until spring. Plant
in autumn once rooted.
Boxwood, Buxus
Butterfly bush, Buddleja
Deutzia
Dogwood, Cornus
Elder, Sambucus
Forsythia
Flowering currant, Ribes
Mock orange, Philadelphus
Rose (including bush types)
Spiraea
Viburnum
Weigela
Willow, Salix
419
420 PLANT CARE
>>
Softwood cuttings
Nonflowering shoots of many tender perennials and
patio plants, as well as some herbaceous perennials,
including delphinium and lupin, will root in six to eight
weeks in warm, humid conditions in summer. Cuttings
are prone to disease, so sterilize any knives, pots, and
trays used in their preparation, and root them in fresh,
sterilized soil mix. Use tap water for cuttings.
SUITABLE PLANTS
Argyranthemum
Begonia
Chrysanthemum
Delphinium
Dianthus
Erysimum
Felicia
Fuchsia
Hebe
Impatiens
Lantana
Lupin
Nepeta
Passiflora
Pelargonium
Penstemon
Salvia
Verbena
Find the right material p
Flowering shoots, such as those on this lupin, are
unlikely to root, even if the blooms are removed, so
look for young leafy stems for the best results.
SELECT HEALTHY STEMS
In summer, collect healthy, leafy
shoots, about 3–5 in (7–12 cm) long,
from plants that you have watered well
the evening before. Take your cuttings
in the morning, before the plants are
stressed by high temperatures, and seal
them in plastic bags to keep them fresh.
TAKE OFF LOWER LEAVES
Pre-fill pots and trays with moist
cutting soil mix to avoid any delay
once cuttings have been prepared. Using a
sharp knife, cut just below a leaf joint and
trim off lower leaves neatly to leave just
two or three healthy ones at the top. Dip
the cut ends in hormone rooting powder.
POT UP
Push the cuttings into the soil mix,
leaving the upper half exposed.
Root singly in small pots or fit several into
large pots or trays, making sure the leaves
are not touching. Firm lightly, water, and
cover with a clear plastic bag, or root in a
propagator, and keep at 59–70°F (15–21°C).
<<
PLANT CARE
Semiripe cuttings
These are gathered later in summer when the bases of the stems are firmer. You
can pull off side shoots with a little tear or “heel” of stem, and they will root in
about ten weeks, or the following spring. This method is used mainly for evergreen
shrubs, like boxwood (Buxus), and woody herbs, such as sage (Salvia).
SUITABLE PLANTS
CHOOSE A HEALTHY STEM
Select shoot tips or side shoots that
are firm at the base, soft and leafy
at the top. Cut just below a leaf joint or
gently pull side shoots downward to leave
a heel of stem tissue still attached.
REMOVE LOWER LEAVES
Remove the leaves and side shoots
from the lower half of the cutting,
and trim back any heels at the base that
are particularly long. If your cutting has
no heel, simulate one by cutting a 1 in
(2.5 cm) slice from one side of the stem.
PREPARE THE STEM
Use a sharp, sterilized knife to trim
off the soft shoot tip just above a
leaf joint. Discard this section. Removing
the shoot tip helps reduce moisture loss
from the cutting.
POT UP
Dip the cut ends in hormone rooting
powder. Either root in pots of moist
cutting soil mix, inserting them up to the
base of the lower leaves, or set hardy
types, such as boxwood (above) 3 in
(8 cm) apart in sandy soil in a cold frame.
Abutilon
Artemisia
Buxus
Calluna
Ceanothus
Choisya
Cytisus
Erica
Lavandula
Mahonia (pictured
above)
Rosmarinus
Salvia
Sarcococca
KEEP WARM
Place your pots of cuttings in a
covered propagator set to 64–70°F
(18–21°C), or seal them in clear plastic bags,
propped up with sticks to keep the plastic
off the leaves. Keep soil moist. Harden off
(see p.109), and plant out once rooted.
421
422 PLANT CARE
>>
Lawn care
A verdant lawn makes a wonderful foil for flower borders
and creates an emerald focal point in winter when color is
in short supply. There are different types of turf for different
situations (see p.206) but all lawns benefit from regular
mowing, and care and attention in the spring and autumn.
MOWING AND WATERING
Mow grass whenever it is growing,
provided the ground isn’t too wet or
icy to walk on. In spring, mow once a
week with the blades at their highest
setting, and gradually lower them
as growth accelerates. Use a box to
collect the clippings, which can be
composted, or use a “mulching
mower” which doesn’t remove the
grass but chops it into fine pieces,
returning nutrients to the lawn. Rake
off thick patches of clippings, which
will damage the turf. In summer, a
high-quality lawn may need cutting
three times a week, but in autumn,
as growth slows, once or twice a
week should suffice. In dry periods,
water newly laid turf, freshly sown
areas, and high-quality lawns. Leave
established lawns unwatered, but stop
mowing because longer grass helps
protect the roots. The grass may turn
brown, but will recover once it rains.
o When to water
Water a new lawn every
week in dry spells, until
it is established. You can
tell when fine lawns need
watering because they
lose their spring when
walked on. Reduce water
evaporation by using
sprinklers early in the
morning or at night. Move
seep hoses by 8 in (20 cm)
every half hour.
FEEDING
The amount of fertilizer you need to
maintain lush green grass depends on
how rich the underlying soil is, and if
you occasionally leave the clippings
on the lawn, which help top up the
soil nutrients. Apply granular or liquid
lawn fertilizer at least once a year.
Spring and early summer feeds are
high in nitrogen to boost leaf growth;
products for use in early autumn are
low in nitrogen but high in potassium
to aid grass roots in winter. Do not
overfeed because it can result in
weak growth and fungal problems.
TOP TIP: HOMEMADE TOP DRESSING
a Applying fertilizer
Divide the lawn into a grid of yard squares
using stakes. Apply fertilizer at the rate
according to the package. Rent a calibrated
spreader for large lawns, and water if it
doesn’t rain within three days after feeding.
Applying a sandy top dressing (see opposite),
helps rejuvenate lawns, especially those
grown on heavy soils, by increasing drainage
and encouraging strong root growth. Mix your
own dressing by spreading out a sheet of
plastic close to the lawn. Then, using a bucket
as a single measure, combine three parts
good-quality topsoil or sandy loam with six
parts horticultural sand and one part peat
substitute, such as coir or ground composted
bark. Let the mixture dry slightly so you can
spread it more easily, and then work it
thoroughly into the surface of the lawn.
<<
PLANT CARE
Autumn treatment
After a summer of heavy use many lawns start showing signs of wear and tear
by the end of the season. Early autumn is a great time to repair the damage and
to ensure that your turf is in good condition for the year ahead.
RAKE OUT MOSS
Kill off any moss with a lawn
moss herbicide before vigorously
scratching out dead material (thatch) from
the lawn with a spring-tined rake; rent a
motorized scarifier for large lawns. Raking
improves the look and health of the turf.
AERATE THE SOIL
Open up air channels in a
compacted lawn by pushing a
border fork into the soil, or use a hollow
tiner, which pulls out plugs of soil. Work
across the lawn at 4 in (10 cm) intervals.
Repeat this process every two years.
APPLY TOP DRESSING
After raking and aerating the lawn,
work a top dressing into the holes.
You can buy this premixed from garden
centers and hardware stores, but it’s easy
and cost effective on large lawns to make
your own (see Top Tip, opposite).
TOP TIP: WEEDING OPTIONS
FEED AND SOW
BRUSH IN DRESSING
Work in the top dressing thoroughly
using a stiff brush or besom, lightly
filling the new aeration channels, and
covering the ground to encourage strong
rooting. Apply it evenly and make sure
the grass isn’t smothered.
Wearing gloves, apply a granular
autumn lawn fertilizer evenly
over marked out squares (see Applying
fertilizer, opposite). Water in if no rain
falls within three days of applying it. In
early autumn, the soil is sufficiently warm
and moist to sow grass seed too. Sprinkle
seed to match your lawn type at half the
recommended rate for new lawns to help
thicken up any bald spots.
Acidic lawns are prone to moss and
weed growth. Check soil pH in winter,
and raise it by applying ground chalk
or limestone at a rate of 2 oz per
10 sq ft (50 g per sq meter). Apply
a lawn weedkiller in spring or
summer, and repeat in early autumn.
Organic gardeners can grub out
creeping buttercups, daisies (below),
and tap-rooted weeds, like
dandelions, using an old knife.
423
424 PLANT CARE
>>
Pest control
By encouraging natural predators, following good garden practice, and making regular checks on your
plants, you can keep many pests at bay. Aim to create conditions that support a healthy balance of
predators and their prey, and you will limit the damage and need fewer chemical controls.
KEEPING PESTS AT BAY
Pest patrol should begin when you
buy new plants or accept leafy gifts.
Unwelcome visitors also fly or crawl in
from neighboring gardens, so keep your
eyes peeled and take prompt action.
REDUCING THE RISK
To prevent a plague of pests, avoid
growing large areas of one type of plant.
It is more difficult for pests to home in on
their target when confronted by a variety
of different plants, such as perennials,
annuals, and shrubs, as well as herbs,
vegetables, and fruit. The abundant
nectar also draws in beneficial insects (see
opposite). Don’t overfeed plants because
aphids love the resulting soft growth.
a Make a home for pest predators
This water garden, surrounded by borders planted with a wide range of flowering perennials, makes
the perfect home for beneficial bugs, slug-hunting amphibians, and insect-eating birds.
BE VIGILANT
Use a hand lens to scan flower buds,
shoot tips, and the undersides of leaves
for mites, aphids, and whitefly. Also look
for grubs or nibbled roots when you take
plants out of their pots, and search for
caterpillars on rolled or skeletonized
leaves. A night-time foray with a flashlight
will reveal nocturnal pests, such as slugs
and snails; seek them out during the day
by checking under pots. Weed regularly,
and look out for pest hideouts.
1 Neaten potential slug and snail roosting
sites. 2 Check buds and shoot tips for
aphids. 3 Pick off larger pests, such as
lily beetle, by hand.
Garden friends
There’s often a frustrating lag between the appearance of pests, like aphids, and their
natural predators, such as ladybirds, lacewings and hoverfly larvae. So, don’t be too
quick to reach for insecticides, as killing off natural predators’ food sources may drive
them away. Chemical pesticides also kill friendly bugs, as well as unwanted insects.
IDENTIFYING PREDATORS
It is important to recognize the chief insect
predators; they are often the larvae of more
familiar adults, like ladybugs and hoverflies,
but some are quite different in appearance
(see ladybug, below). By knowing what
these larvae look like, you will be less likely
to confuse them with pests, and may be
able to move them to badly infested plants.
Some predators hide under leaf litter and
bark mulch, and are invisible during the day,
actively feeding at night. One example is
ground beetles, which attack slugs. Visit
internet websites to identify mystery bugs
or try ask the experts at your garden center.
ENCOURAGING FRIENDLY BEASTS
Lure beneficial insects into your garden by
providing hibernation sites, such as a log
pile, and simple flowers, which attract
nectar-feeding types (see pp.352–353). Grow
leafy ground cover to shelter slug-munching
a Flowering feast
Simple, open nectar-rich flowers, such as
blanket flower (Gaillardia), are a magnet to bees
and hoverflies, which appreciate an easy meal.
frogs and toads, and add a small pond with
grassy margins. Delay cutting herbaceous
plants till spring for winter cover, and provide
food, water, and nesting sites for birds.
1 Ladybugs and their larvae (inset) both gorge on aphids. Encourage them to visit in spring by avoiding insecticides, and provide cover, such
as evergreen shrubs on a south wall, a hedge base, bark crevices, or leaf litter, for overwintering adults. 2 Frogs and toads eat slugs and
flies, and even without a pond, will colonize a garden if there is shady ground cover, and a log or rock pile. 3 Garden spiders, especially
web-building species, trap and eat large numbers of flying insect pests, including aphids and crane flies. 4 Hoverflies vary enormously.
Larger species are sometimes confused with wasps, despite their hovering flight. Adults pollinate flowers and crops, and most larvae have a
good appetite for aphids and other pests. Adults prefer yellow, orange, and white blooms. 5 Lacewing adults are most often seen seeking
shelter indoors in autumn. Provide cover as for ladybugs. Green lacewing larvae, called “aphid lions,” also have a voracious appetite for other
pests. 6 Thrushes are one of the few birds that eat snails. Most birds, including seedeaters, feed nestlings on insects and caterpillars.
Encourage them with a year-round water supply, supplementary food, and roosting and nesting sites.
426 PLANT CARE
>>
Common pests and their control
Slugs and snails are a nuisance for most gardeners, but simple preventive treatment, such as erecting
barriers, encouraging predators, and using biological controls, can significantly reduce attacks in gardens.
Tackle other pests with similar organic controls and guards to reduce the need for chemicals.
SLUGS AND SNAILS
o Snail targets
Snails are fearless
climbers, making
your hanging baskets,
wall troughs, and
window boxes just
as vulnerable as your
beds and borders.
Although these are annoying plant pests,
much of their activity, such as devouring
rotting vegetation, is actually beneficial.
Unfortunately, they do not discriminate
and are equally happy to chomp through
desirable plants and crops.
These nocturnal nibblers have rasping
mouthparts, and chew the margins of
leaves and petals, as well as leaving holes
in them. They also strip off chunks of
stem, causing young plants to collapse,
and graze the skin and peel of fruit and
vegetables. Seedlings and any juicy young
shoots of established plants, flower and
leaf buds, and newly unfurled foliage are
particularly vulnerable. Snails can climb up
walls and tall plants to reach their food,
while some slugs live underground.
o Key signs
Look out for tattered
leaves and ragged
flowers that indicate
the presence of slugs
and snails.
ORGANIC CONTROL
Check under and around the rims of pots,
beneath ledges, in piles of rocks or logs,
and on evergreen shrubs where slugs and
snails roost, and pick them off. Beer traps
will lure them in at night. Slugs and snails
are also deterred by copper strips, which
give them an electric shock when they
pass over them, and cloches made from
plastic bottles. If all else fails, sprinkle
pellets sparingly around key plants.
1 Beer in a cut-off plastic bottle lures and
traps slugs. 2 Use the top half of the
bottle to protect seedlings. 3 Fit copper
tape around pot rims. 4 Surround
vulnerable hostas with copper slug collars.
<<
PLANT CARE
APHIDS
These pests are commonly known as
greenfly, although other colors exist and
some have a woolly wax coating. Aphid
species number over 4,000 worldwide,
and many favor specific plants. They
reproduce rapidly in spring and summer.
SIGNS OF ATTACK
Shriveled and distorted shoots, leaves,
and flowers are the main signs of aphid
attacks. You may also see a residue of a
sticky honeydew excretion, which can lead
to black sooty mold (see p.433). Also look
for aphids’ white discarded skins, which
they shed as they grow.
Aphids transmit viruses, and yellow
mottling and color streaks in leaves and
flowers indicate possible infection. These
tiny insects give birth to live young that
immediately start feeding, so soft plant
tips rapidly become infested. Pinch off
heavily affected shoots or blast them with
water from a hosepipe.
BIRDS AND SMALL MAMMALS
Mice and other rodents dig up spring-sown seeds in the kitchen garden, and in
autumn munch on ripening fruits and gnaw newly planted bulbs. Some birds are also
a nuisance, pecking flowers, pulling up seedlings, eating brassicas, and stealing fruit.
AVOIDING DEVASTATION
Rabbits, squirrels, and pigeons can lay
waste to newly planted beds, borders,
and pots. To avoid scenes like that shown
(right), erect barriers or netting, or cover
seedlings and pots of bulbs with chicken
wire. To prevent cats from scratching in
the finely tilled soil of seed beds, lay
thorny twigs across the surface, or insert
short bamboo canes between crops or
flowers. Sow large seeds, such as peas
and beans, in pots away from hungry
mice, and protect trees and shrubs
with rabbit guards.
Physical barriers p
If birds and other animals persist in wrecking
crops, sow within a protective enclosure.
1 Adult female aphids can produce five live
babies per day for up to 30 days. 2 Aphids
can be green, black, or other colors, but all
do the same damage if left unchecked.
3 Clear infestations with fatty acids or plant
oil sprays. Keep a ready-to-use spray handy
for spot treatments.
TOP TIP: BIOLOGICAL CONTROL
Slugs, vine weevils, chafer grubs, and
crane fly larvae can all be controlled with
microscopic nematode worms that kill the
pests without harming the environment.
Mix the nematodes with water and apply
at specific times of year, following the
supplier’s instructions. Treatments may
need to be repeated. You can buy
nematodes to control a range of pests on
the internet or via mail-order companies.
427
428 PLANT CARE
>>
Identifying common pests
You can identify pest damage in one of two ways: either you see the beast or you see the damage it causes.
Use chemical sprays only as a last resort: wear gloves when mixing and spraying, and follow manufacturers’
instructions. Where possible, try pest traps and barriers, biological controls, and organic sprays first.
1 GALL MITES
2 BOX SUCKER
3 CODLING MOTH
4 WINTER MOTH
These microscopic mites suck
sap and cause abnormal
growths. These include raised
pimples or clumps of matted
hairs on leaves, or enlarged
buds. Most are harmless and
can be tolerated.
The wingless nymphs of box
psyllids are covered in a waxy
coat, and found inside the
ball-shaped shoot tips in
spring. Control the pest by
cutting off affected growth and
discard or burn it.
To avoid maggots in apples,
spray emerging caterpillars
twice using bifenthrin, starting
in midsummer. Also hang
pheromone traps in late spring
to catch male moths and
prevent them from mating.
In spring, the leaves of fruit
trees are webbed together and
hide green caterpillars inside.
Holes are visible when leaves
expand. Apply sticky grease
bands to the trees and stakes
in autumn to trap adult moths.
5 SCALE INSECTS
6 GLASSHOUSE WHITEFLY
7 VIBURNUM BEETLE
8 THRIPS
Tiny blister or shell-like bumps
on leaf backs result in poor
growth. Other symptoms are
sticky excretions and sooty
mold on evergreens. Wash off
mold, and spray with plant oils,
fatty acids, or thiacloprid.
Under glass, hang yellow sticky
pads to trap these tiny white
flying adults, which suck sap
from plants; use a biological
control (Encarsia wasp) on
larvae, or spray with thiacloprid
or organic chemical controls.
Both the adults and larvae eat
holes in the leaves, mainly on
Viburnum tinus and V. opulus;
this can slow growth and
looks unsightly. Spray badly
affected plants in spring using
bifenthrin or thiacloprid.
These tiny black sap-suckers,
known as “thunder flies,” cause
white patches on the petals
and leaves of indoor plants, and
also peas, leeks, onions, and
gladioli. Spray with bifenthrin
or use biological controls.
9 VINE WEEVIL
0 CATERPILLARS
q SAWFLIES
w LEAF MINERS
Small cream grubs with a
brown head (top) feed on plant
roots, especially those growing
in containers or with fleshy
roots. This can cause plants
to suddenly collapse. The adult
beetle (below) is nocturnal,
flightless, and makes notches
in leaves. Use a biological
control (nematodes).
The larvae of butterflies and
moths attack many plants.
Cabbage white caterpillars
(top) decimate brassicas and
nasturtiums, while those of
the tomato moth (below)
damage fruits. Cover plants to
keep adults from laying eggs,
rub off egg clusters, and pick
off any caterpillars you find.
The caterpillar-like larvae (top)
devour the foliage on plants
such as roses, gooseberries,
and Solomon’s seal
(Polygonatum). Look out for
the first signs of attack, such
as leaf rolling (rose leaf-rolling
sawfly, below). Pick caterpillars
off by hand or spray with
bifenthrin or pyrethrum.
The larvae of various flies,
moths, sawflies, and beetles
feed within the leaves,
creating discolored blotches
(top), or linear mines (below).
Most are relatively harmless
and can be left untreated.
However, if necessary, you can
spray leaves with thiacloprid.
e RED SPIDER MITES
r WOOLLY BEECH APHID
t HORSE CHESTNUT
y EARWIG
The tiny mites live under
leaves and suck sap, causing
yellow mottling. Fine webs
are sometimes visible. Raise
humidity and use a biological
control under glass. Otherwise
try organic sprays or bifenthrin.
Seen in early summer, these
white fluffy aphids coat shoots
and the undersides of leaves.
They suck sap, and excrete
honeydew that supports black
sooty mold. Spray severe
infestations with thiacloprid.
LEAF MINER
Mostly beneficial, earwigs are
nocturnal and feed on dahlia,
chrysanthemum, and clematis
flowers. Lure them into
upturned flower pots filled
with straw and set on stakes;
release them elsewhere.
This new but widespread pest
attacks mature trees where
control is difficult. Leaves show
brown marks between the
veins, which result in slow
growth and early leaf drop.
430 PLANT CARE
>>
Plant diseases
The best way to keep plants free from disease is to grow them in the right conditions, so that they are
strong enough to fight off any infections. Clean and sterilize tools and equipment, and prevent diseases
from spreading by taking prompt action. Check symptoms carefully—they may just be signs of stress.
PREVENTING DISEASES
Before buying a plant, check that it
is healthy, and where species are
susceptible to certain problems, buy
cultivars that are disease resistant,
if available.
Try to plant in ideal conditions in
well-nourished soil of the correct
type, pH, and drainage for your chosen
plants, and with sufficient sun or
shade (see pp.14–15). Also keep them
well watered, especially after planting
while they establish. At the first sign
of trouble, cut off affected parts, and
either burn them or take them to your
local recycling center.
Regularly remove yellowing leaves
and fading flowers, as well as diseased
leaves that have fallen to the ground,
which may cause reinfection if the
spores blow onto healthy plants. If
space allows, practice crop rotation in
vegetable gardens to prevent disease
from building up in localized areas.
CLEANING SOLUTIONS
Clean cutting tools, including pruning
saws, shears, and clippers, regularly
with disinfectant to lessen the risk of
disease spreading from one plant to
another. Clean and sterilize pots, trays,
and other equipment used for sowing
to prevent damping-off disease,
which causes seedlings to suddenly
collapse and die. Use new soil and
tap water when sowing seeds.
a p Clean tools and sterilize equipment
Scrub sap from cutting blades with warm soapy water,
and use household disinfectant to sterilize them (above).
This reduces the risk of passing infection between plants.
Rinse off old soil and use a baby bottle sterilizing tablet to
cleanse containers used for sowing (right).
a Check plants regularly
Keep plants healthy by removing any yellowing or marked
leaves, fading flowers, and dead stems. Pay particular
attention to bedding plants (above) and greenhouse crops.
<<
PLANT CARE
STRESS AND VIRUSES
It can be diffficult to work out what is
wrong with a plant, but some worrying
symptoms are a sign that the plant is
stressed, perhaps due to a lack of
nutrients, or because it has suffered
physical or chemical damage.
ASSESS YOUR PLANTS
Some plants discolor if not properly
hardened off (see p.109), or if grown at
too cool or high a temperature. Leaves
may turn white or develop red or
purple tints. Starved plants also show
leaf discoloration and stunted growth.
Viruses are commonly spread by
sap-sucking insect pests, such as
aphids. Typical symptoms are
pale-streaked or mottled leaves, and
leaf curling or distortion. Flower petals
may also be streaked, and fruit and
flower production reduced or growth
stunted. Remove affected plants and
throw in the trash or burn them.
a Frost damage
Brown or blackened shoot
tips in spring are signs that
a shrub has been scorched
by frost. Leave stems to
resprout and then cut off
the dead material.
a Virus attack
Streaked foliage that does not improve
after feeding may indicate a virus. Kill any
sap-sucking pests that spread viruses,
and discard or burn infected plants.
Signs of stress p
Some plants, including
boxwood (right), show
unusual leaf coloring after
a hot, dry summer, or
following root damage
due to waterlogging.
TREATING DISEASES
Taking the right care of your plant patient is an important step toward
its recovery. Spraying or removing affected parts all play a part in the
process, but ailing plants should also be fed and watered to help them
regain their strength. Watch out for pests, which may attack your plant
as it recovers, causing it to decline again.
CHEMICAL CONTROL
Use fungicides sparingly, and follow
the manufacturers’ instructions and
recommendations for protective
clothing. On small and wall-trained
fruit trees, where practical to spray,
a program of preventive treatment
can be helpful to counter a range
of diseases (see pp.432–433). Also,
reduce the need for spraying by
growing disease-resistant cultivars
and providing good growing conditions.
If early sowings suffer from damping
off, consider drenching your soil with
a preventive copper-based fungicide.
a Cutting out disease
Prune out diseased wood as soon as you see it, to prevent
infections from spreading to healthy tissue.
REMOVING THE PROBLEM
a Spraying fungicide
If organic methods have failed, spray
affected plants with a fungicide
recommended for the plant. Wear gloves
and follow the instructions on the label.
Keep a look out for dead wood and torn branches
and prune back to healthy tissue. Prune to a bud to
reduce the risk of die back and infection (see p.410
for pruning methods). As well as sterilizing cutting
equipment, wash your hands in soapy water after
handling diseased material. Regularly check stored
fruits, vegetables, and flower bulbs and tubers, and
remove any that show signs of decay or damage.
431
432 PLANT CARE
>>
Common diseases and disorders
Some plants are more susceptible to certain diseases than others, so buy resistant varieties whenever
possible. You can also boost a plant’s natural resistance by growing it in ideal conditions, and remove
infected material and overwintering weeds that may carry diseases into the following year.
1 CLEMATIS WILT
2 APPLE SCAB
3 APPLE AND PEAR CANKER
4 BLOSSOM END ROT
The fungus causes wilting and
black foliage on large-flowered
cultivars. Plant clematis 2–3 in
(5–7 cm) deeper than they
were in their pots; cut stems to
the base if the disease strikes.
Symptoms include brown leaf
spots, leaf drop, and scabby
and cracked fruit. Cut off
scabby shoots, clear fallen
leaves, and use a fungicide.
Also grow resistant cultivars.
Lesions appear on bark, and
white fungus grows in summer
on the wounds. Avoid growing
plants on waterlogged soil. Cut
out affected wood and spray in
autumn with a fungicide.
Dark patches on tomatoes are a
symptom of calcium deficiency,
caused by a lack of, or irregular,
watering. Water more often and
apply a tomato fertilizer every
week after flowering.
5 CLUB ROOT
6 CHOCOLATE SPOT
7 ROSE BLACKSPOT
8 SILVERLEAF
This slime mold affects
brassicas and causes swollen
roots, pale, wilted foliage, and
poor crops. Infected soil or
plants carry the spores. Plant
a different crop on infected soil,
or grow brassicas in pots.
A common fungal disease that
affects broad beans. Brown
spots appear on leaves, stems,
and pods, and yields are poor.
Remove and destroy infected
material. Improve soil drainage
and air flow between plants.
Signs are yellowing leaves
with black spots and sunken
stem lesions. Pick off and burn
infected and fallen leaves.
Hard prune in late winter, then
use a fungicide spray. Also,
select disease-resistant roses.
Causes silver sheen on plum,
cherry, rhododendron, and.
rose leaves; affected stems
may die. Prune in summer to
minimize infection. Prune out
and destroy affected wood.
Feed to boost plants’ vigor.
9 HONEY FUNGUS
0 BOTRYTIS (GRAY MOLD)
q POWDERY MILDEW
w POTATO SCAB/BLIGHT
Toadstools (top) appear in
autumn at the base of trees
or shrubs, with a white fungus
that smells of mushrooms
under the bark. Black
“bootlaces” (below) appear in
the soil. There is no cure, so
remove the plant and all the
roots to prevent the spread
of this fatal disease.
This fungal disease takes hold
in humid conditions, especially
on spring and autumn bedding,
and under glass. Flowers (top)
and leaves (below) turn yellow
or brown, and may have a gray
furry coating. Soft fruits and
tomatoes also rot. Remove
dead material, and injured
stems and leaves promptly.
A white fungus appears on
leaves and stems of crops and
ornamental plants, especially
those growing in pots and
planters, or by hedges and
walls. Susceptibility increases
with lack of water and poor
growing conditions. Water well,
avoiding the foliage, feed, and
mulch to boost resistance.
Scab (top) forms if tubers are
grown in dry soil; add organic
matter and water well to
increase moisture. Blight
(below) is more serious and
worse in wet conditions. The
foliage browns and wilts, and
tubers rot. Destroy all affected
plants and don’t grow potatoes
in the soil for three years.
e RUST
r SOOTY MOLD
t CORAL SPOT
y RHODODENDRON
A fungal disease that causes
brown, orange, or yellow
pustules on the backs of
leaves. The spores increase in
humid conditions. Pick off and
destroy affected growth. Look
for resistant varieties.
This black fungus is often seen
on the upper leaf surfaces of
evergreen shrubs. It grows on
the sticky mess produced by
sap-sucking insect pests. Kill
the pests, and wash off the
mold with mild soapy water.
The orange-pink fungus grows
on dead wood but can also
infect living tissue if plants are
weak or poorly pruned. Cut out
and destroy affected wood.
Feed and water plants well to
boost their immunity.
Buds on infected plants remain
unopened and look silvery. In
late spring they develop black
bristles. Remove affected buds
and take to a recycling center.
There is no chemical treatment.
BUD BLAST
434 INDEX
A
>>
Abies (fir)
A. balsamea ‘Nana’ 243
A. concolor ‘Wintergold’ 244–5
A. fraseri 158
A. koreana 243
A. nordmanniana 158
A. n. ‘Golden Spreader’ 243
Abutilon 421
Acanthus (bear’s breeches) 418
Acer 18, 241
A. campestre 193
A. davidii 182
A. japonicum 182
A. palmatum 44
A. p. dissectum ‘Garnet’ 44–5
A. p. ‘Sango-kaku’ 184
Achillea (yarrow) 28, 29, 66, 67, 73,
416
A. filipendula ‘Gold Plate’ 66, 67
A. ‘Moonshine’ 350–1
A. Summer Pastels Group 46–7
A. ‘Walther Funcke’ 94–5
acid soils 14, 258, 422
acid-loving plants 44–5, 162, 258, 294,
295, 301
Aconitum carmichaelii Arendsii Group
68
Acorus calamus ‘Argenteostriatus’ 329
Actaea simplex ‘Brunette’ 92–3
Adiantum 368
A. capillus-veneris 140, 141, 386–7
Aeonium arboreum 140
Aeschynanthus 370–1
African violet see Saintpaulia
Agapanthus 155
Ageratum houstonianum ‘Hawaii
White’ 132
Ajuga reptans 56–7
Akebia quinata 224
Alcea (hollyhock) 68
A. rosea ‘Chater’s Double Group’ 69
Alchemilla alpina 204
A. mollis 77, 80, 92–3, 186–7
allergic reactions 269
Allium 38, 40, 41, 43, 72, 187
A. hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’
38, 42–3
almonds 306
Alnus incana 236
Aloe aristata 391
alpines 136–7, 169, 203
Alstroemeria 72, 408
A. ligtu hybrids 66, 67
Alyssum 77
A. wulfenianum 205
Amaranthus caudatus 113
amaryllis (Hippeastrum) 366–7
Amelanchier lamarckii 176
Anchusa
A. azurea 66, 67
A. a. ‘Loddon Royalist’ 269, 350–1
Androsace sarmentosa 205
Anemone 68
A. hupehensis ‘Hadspen
Abundance’ 69
A. x hybrida 80, 418
Angelica archangelica 74–5
animals 41, 55, 187, 290, 324, 347, 427
annuals 11, 17, 64–5, 115, 126,
312–13, 352
bedding plants 64–5, 108–11
for cutting and drying 72, 73
from seed 108–13, 167
Anthemis 68
A. punctata subsp. cupaniana 79
A. tinctoria ‘E.C. Buxton’ 68
Anthurium andraeanum 383, 399
Antirrhinum 72, 77, 121
A. majus 166–7, 288, 289, 311
aphids 249, 283, 304, 424, 425, 427
spreading diseases 427, 429, 431,
433
apple mint 310
apples 297, 299, 320, 346, 428, 432
aquatic compost 324, 327, 328, 339,
341
aquatic plants 11, 324, 325, 326, 327,
338–9
Aquilegia 43, 77
A. formosa 68
A. ‘Nora Barlow’ 42–3
A. vulgaris ‘Nivea’ 59
Arabis subsp. caucasica ‘Variegata’ 204
Arbutus unedo 185
arches 187, 222–5, 229, 233, 238
Argyranthemum 420
Aronia berries (chokeberries) 294
Artemisia 421
arum lily see Zantedeschia aethiopica
Asparagus fern
A. densiflorus ‘Myersii’ 128–9, 387
A. setaceus ‘Nanus’ 387
asparagus pea 250–1
aspect 15, 28, 176, 239
Asperula 189
Asplenium
A. nidus 386–7
A. scolopendrium 57, 164
Aster 352, 416
A. amellus cultivars 353
A. dumosus purple hybrid 148–9
A. frikartii 94–5
Astilbe 182–3
Astilboides tabularis 84–5
Astrantia major 69
Aubretia 203
A. ‘Argenteovariegata’ 204
Aucuba 417
Aurinia saxatilis 203
autumn border 94–5
autumn colour 11, 96, 176, 220, 221,
234–5, 413
autumn interest 70–1, 95, 96–7, 148–9
azaleas 44
B
Bacopa cordata 138–9
bags, growing crops in 251, 253, 276–7
bamboos 13, 62–3, 144–5, 242
see also Fargesia; Indocalamus;
Phyllostachys; Pleioblastus
banana see Ensete ventricosum;
Musa basjoo
bare-root plants 21, 62–3, 114, 196,
307, 320
bark 176, 182–3, 405, 422
barrel pool 338–9
basil 90–1, 310, 312–13
bay see Laurus nobilis
bean sprouts 266, 267
beans see broad beans; French beans;
runner beans
bear’s breeches see Acanthus
bedding plants 11, 64–5, 108–11, 120–1,
128, 135, 139
diseases 430, 433
bee hotel 362
beech see Fagus
bees 13, 68, 198, 310, 350–1, 355, 362
beetroot 256
Begonia 122, 420
B. ‘Benitochiba’ 396
B. ‘Bettina Rothschild’ 371
B. ‘Illumination Rose’ 121
B. ‘Martin Johnson’ 396
B. rex 370–1
B. r. hybrids 396–7
B. ‘Tiny Bright’ 396
winter-flowering 399
Berberis
B. darwinii 193
B. thunbergii f. atropurpurea
‘Golden Ring’ 194
bergamot see Monarda didyma
Bergenia 19, 416
B. x schmidtii 81
berries 11, 96–7, 164, 176, 179, 194, 347
wall shrubs for 234–5
Betula (birch) 177
B. alleghaniensis 177
B. nana 236
B. papyrifera 237
B. pendula 236
B. utilis var. jacquemontii 84–5,
182–3
Bidens 108, 111
biennials 11, 114
biological controls 110, 426, 427, 428,
429
birch see Betula
birds 55, 324, 328, 362, 424, 427
food 70, 96, 179, 234, 346, 347, 425
nesting sites 346, 347, 363, 425
protection from 208, 265, 294, 295,
321, 349, 427
black-eyed Susan see Thunbergia alata
blackberries 13, 293, 417
blackcurrants 295, 298
blackspot 415, 432
blackthorn see Prunus spinosa
Blechnum gibbum 382, 387
bleeding heart see Dicentra
blood, fish and bone meal 36, 181, 404
blueberries 258, 294, 295, 301
bog gardens 85, 330–1, 337, 341
bog plants 326, 332–5
bokashi composting 359
borders 28–31, 64–5, 67, 71, 416
autumn border 94–5
for bees 350–1
cottage garden 66–7
easy-care 82–3
fiery 46–7
grass border 52–3
by hedges 80–1
pastel 42–3
prairie border 70–1
scented 50–1
shady 36–7, 80–1
winter border 100–1
Boston ivy see Parthenocissus
tricuspidata
box 90–1, 98–9, 142, 146–7, 194, 197,
241, 308–9
see also Buxus sempervirens
Brachyglottis (Dunedin Group)
‘Sunshine’ 82
Brachyscome
B. ‘Blue Mist’ 133
B. Lilac 134–5
branches, cutting 411
Brassica oleracea 164
Briza (quaking grass) 73
B. maxima 115
broad beans 282, 283, 409
broccoli 91
bromeliads 384, 395
bronze-leaved fennel 50–1
broom see Cytisus
Brugmansia
B. aurea 129
B. x candida 385
Brunnera macrophylla ‘Dawson’s
White’ 58
brussels sprouts 265
bubble fountain 344–5
Buddleja 412, 419
<<
bulbs 18, 19, 35, 40–1, 124–5, 169,
187, 191
houseplants 367, 378–9, 395
naturalizing 210–11
spring bulbs 34–5, 38–41, 106–7,
230–1
bush marrow ‘Badger Cross’ F1 279
busy Lizzie see Impatiens walleriana
Butomus umbellatus 329
butterflies 17, 54, 198, 265, 310, 347,
353, 357
butterfly bush see Buddleja
butternut squash 279
butyl pond liner 324, 326, 330–1, 337,
339, 356
Buxus (box) 419, 420, 431
B. sempervirens 90–1, 98–9, 146–7,
170–1, 308–9
B. s. ‘Elegantissima’ 194
see also box
C
cabbage 91, 262
cacti 368, 381, 388–91
Caladium 368
Calamagrostis x acutifolia 170–1
Calathea
C. ‘Blue Grass’ 381
C. zebrina 382
Calendula (marigold) 250–1
C. officinalis 112, 268
Calibrachoa ‘Million Bells Purple’ 134–5
California lilac see Ceanothus
California poppy see Eschscholzia
californica
Callicarpa dichotoma 97
Callistephus chinensis ‘Pompon’ 113
Calluna (heather) 421
Caltha palustris 326, 329, 338–9
Camellia 37, 44, 408
Campanula 416, 418
C. carpatica var. turbinata ‘Jewel’
205
C. poscharskyana 81, 203
candytuft see Iberis umbellata
Canna 87, 143
C. indica 336–7
Cape primrose see Streptocarpus
cardoon see Cynara cardunculus
Carex (sedge) 332, 337
C. comans 336–7
C. conica ‘Snowline’ 148–9
C. elata ‘Aurea’ 332
C. ‘Ice Dance’ 127
C. morrowii 125
C. oshimensis ‘Evergold’ 123, 162–3
Carpinus (hornbeam) 81, 197, 411
C. betulus 81, 195, 197, 411
carrots 257, 409
Catalpa bignonioides 177, 413
catkins 235, 236–7
catmint see Nepeta
cats 55, 427
Cattleya 374, 375
Ceanothus 411, 413, 421
C. ‘Concha’ 235
Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca Pendula’ 242
celeriac 257
Celmisia walkeri 204
Centaurea cyanus (cornflower) 72, 73,
112, 348
Cephalotaxus harringtonii ‘Fastigiata’
243
Ceratophyllum demersum 327
Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’ 45
C. siliquastrum 185
Chaenomeles 411, 417
C. x superba 235
Chamaecyparis
C. lawsoniana ‘Golden Pot’ 243
C. l. ‘Minima Aurea’ 243
C. obtusa 242
C. o. ‘Opaal’ 242
Chamaedorea elegans (parlour palm)
382
Chamaemelum (chamomile) 202
C. nobile ‘Treneague’ 209
chamomile lawns 209
chard 250–1, 260
checkerboards 202–3
cherries (fruit trees) 297, 298, 321, 411,
432
cherry see Prunus
chicory 288, 289
children 17, 54–5, 187, 202, 266–7, 274
chillies 90–1, 280
chives 166–7, 288, 289, 311, 312–13,
314–15
Chlorophytum comosum ‘Variegatum’
371
Choisya 164, 421
C. x dewitteana ‘Aztec Pearl’ 82
C. ternata Sundance 157, 165
chokeberries 294
Christmas, plants for 366–7, 378–9,
392–3
Christmas box see Sarcococca confusa
Christmas cactus see Schlumbergera
Christmas trees, repotting 158–9
Chrysanthemum 72, 420, 429
Cirsium 68
C. rivulare 80
C. r. ‘Atropurpureum’ 68
Cistus (rock rose) 78, 345, 419
C. x dansereaui ‘Decumbens’ 79
x Citrofortunella microcarpa 305
Citrus 304–5
C. aurantifolia 305
C. hystrix 305
clay pots 104, 105, 110, 150–1, 407, 409
clay soils 14, 199
improving 15, 29, 41, 51, 67, 71,
82, 91
Cleistocactus strausii 388–9
Clematis 118, 119, 213, 214–19, 239, 429
pruning 119, 412, 414
C. alpina 119, 414
C. ‘Arabella’ 119
C. armandii 214, 215, 222–3, 239, 414
C. ‘Ascotiensis’ 215
C. ‘Barbara Jackman’ 119
C. ‘Bees’ Jubilee’ 119, 214, 215
C. ‘Bill MacKenzie’ 214
C. cirrhosa 414
C. c. var. purpurascens ‘Freckles’ 239
C. ‘Comtesse de Bouchaud’ 119
C. ‘Daniel Deronda’ 119
C. x diversifolia 46–7, 215
C. ‘Etoile Rose’ 214
C. florida 119
C. f. var. flore-pleno 119
C. f. var. sieboldiana 119
C. ‘Henryi’ 214
C. ‘H.F. Young’ 119
C. ‘Ice Blue’ 119
C. ‘Kingfisher’ 119
C. macropetala 119, 414
C. ‘Miss Bateman’ 119
C. montana 214, 414
C. m. var. rubens ‘Tetrarose’ 214
C. ‘Nelly Moser’ 414
C. ‘Niobe’ 119
C. ‘Ooh La la’ 119
C. orientalis 414
C. ‘Perle d’Azur’ 119
C. ‘Prince Charles’ 119
C. ‘Purpurea Plena Elegans’ 215
C. ‘Royalty’ 119
C. tangutica 414
C. texensis 414
C. ‘Ville de Lyon’ 214
C. viticella 412, 414
C. ‘Vyvyan Pennell’ 214
clematis wilt 219, 239, 432
Cleome 72
Clerodendron
C. thomsoniae 128–9
C. trichotomum var. fargesii 96
Clethra 45
climbers 11, 13, 126, 212–13, 251,
411, 417
in containers 118–19, 126, 251
vines 220–1
for winter 238–9
see also arches; obelisks
climbing French beans 248–9
climbing roses 212, 213, 224, 225, 411
Clivia 395, 398
C. miniata 398
INDEX
cloches 263, 287, 409, 426
cobnuts 307
Coelogyne nitida 372
cold frames 228, 264, 409, 416, 418,
419, 421
coleus see Solenostemon
scutellarioides
Colmanara ‘Massai Red’ 376–7
compost
aquatic 324, 327, 328, 339, 341
for cacti and succulents 389
cutting compost 420, 421
ericaceous 44, 159, 162, 301
garden see garden compost
houseplant compost 387, 396
as mulch 196, 320, 404
potting compost 149, 157
seed compost 108–9, 115, 276,
280, 302
spent mushroom compost 12, 15
compost bins 358–9
composting 358–9, 361, 422
conifers 45, 242–3, 244–5
dwarf 100–1, 142, 150–1, 242, 243
conservatories 129, 375, 381
containers 44, 55, 110–11, 134–5, 405,
407
choosing 104–5, 142–3, 161, 169,
171, 368, 387, 396
feeding 124, 125, 149, 152, 161, 169
frost protection 128, 335, 409
fruit in 290–1, 293, 296–9
grouping 104, 142, 368
renewing compost 124, 127, 139,
151, 171, 298, 335
shrubs in 135, 150–3, 164, 165
for table displays 168–9, 204
trees in 135, 188, 189
vegetables in 250–1, 253, 260–1,
312–13
see also hanging baskets; pots;
window boxes
contemporary gardens 90–1, 154–5,
242
Convallaria majalis 169
Convolvulus cneorum 133
copper strips 110, 161, 285, 300, 426
coppicing 100, 307
Cordyline 116, 409
C. australis 116, 140, 141
Coreopsis 154–5
C. verticillata ‘Moonbeam’ 68
coriander 302, 311
corn cockle 349
cornflower see Centaurea cyanus
Cornus (dogwood) 231, 419
C. alba ‘Sibirica’ 100–1
C. amomum ‘Blue Cloud’ 97
C. florida 44–5
C. kousa ‘Miss Satomi’ 184
435
436 INDEX
>>
C. mas 184
C. stolonifera ‘Flaviramea’ 100–1
Cortaderia (pampas grass)
C. selloana ‘Aureolineata’ 52–3
C. s. ‘Pumila’ 52–3
Corylus (hazel) 179, 182, 192
C. avellana 192, 193
C. maxima ‘Purpurea’ 413
Cosmos 72, 349
C. atrosanguineus 48
C. bipinnatus 65
C. b. ‘Purity’ 166–7
C. b. ‘Sonata White’ 112
Cotinus (smoke bush) 413, 417
C. ‘Grace’ 243
cottage gardens 17, 66–9, 104, 233
cottage-style containers 104, 105,
126–7, 241
cotton lavender see Santolina
courgettes 250–1, 268, 276–7, 405
cow parsley 349
crab apple see Malus
Crambe 418
cranesbill see Geranium
Crassula arborescens 391
Crataegus (hawthorn) 179, 192, 193,
346, 347
C. laevigata ‘Paul’s Scarlet’ 346
C. l. ‘Rosea’ 185
creeping Jenny see Lysimachia
nummularia
cress 266
crevices, plants for 204–5
Crocosmia
C. ‘Bressingham Blaze’ 82–3
C. ‘Lucifer’ 46–7
C. masoniorum 28, 29
Crocus 35, 210–11
C. corsicus 38
C. tommasinianus 34–5
Cryptomeria 141
Cucurbita maxima (pumpkin) 277,
278–9, 283
Cupressus macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’
162–3
C. sempervirens 243
curry plant 308, 309
cut-and-come-again leaves 286,
287
cutting, flowers for 72–3, 86
cutting branches 411
cuttings 418–21
Cycas revoluta 381
Cyclamen 156
C. coum Pewter Group 59
C. persicum ‘Sierra White’ 398
Cymbidium 374, 375
C. kanran 375
C. lowianum 372
C. ‘Minuet’ 373
C. ‘Showgirl’ 398
Cynara cardunculus (cardoon) 79
Cytisus (broom) 421
D
daffodils 72, 106–7, 156, 187, 211, 379
forcing 378, 379
planting 41, 211
see also Narcissus
Dahlia 72, 86–7, 88–9, 121, 429
annual 108, 111
D. ‘Arabian Night’ 88
D. ‘Bishop of Llandaff’ 46–7
D. ‘David Howard’ 46–7
D. ‘Easter Sunday’ 88
D. ‘Gay Princess’ 88
D. ‘Kathryn’s Cupid’ 88
D. ‘Moonfire’ 89
D. ‘Pink Giraffe’ 89
D. ‘Polar Sight’ 89
D. ‘Preston Park’ 89
D. ‘Ragged Robin’ 88
D. ‘Yellow Hammer’ 88
D. ‘Zorro’ 89
daisies 19, 345, 349
damping off 430, 431
damsons 297
Daphne
D. x burkwoodii ‘Somerset’ 48
D. laureola subsp. philippi 37
Darmera peltata 332
daylily see Hemerocallis
dead hedges, for wildlife 355
deadheading 51, 77, 199, 312
containers 107, 110, 114, 125, 126,
130, 131, 140, 167
decorative edges, building 32–3
deep-water aquatics 11, 326
deficiencies of minerals 13, 44, 431
Delosperma harazianum 137
Delphinium 67, 73, 420
D. Black Knight Group 66, 67
D. grandiflorum 127
Dendrobium 374, 375
D. ‘Sweet Dawn’ 372
Deschampsia cespitosa 70–1
desert bowl 388–9
design 16–17, 29, 30, 67, 176, 177, 243
Deutzia 412, 419
Dianthus (pink; sweet William) 420
D. barbatus (sweet William) 72
D. ‘Bovey Belle’ 49
D. ‘Devon Flores’ 168–9
D. ‘Little Jock’ 205
D. ‘Super Trooper’ 50–1
Diascia 125, 408
D. Flying Colours Coral 130, 131
Dicentra 418
D. spectabilis (bleeding heart) 80,
179
D. s. ‘Alba’ 68
D. s. ‘Gold Heart’ 37
Dichondra argentea ‘Silver Falls’ 130–1
Dicksonia antarctica 180–1
Dieffenbachia seguine ‘Saturn’ 381
digging 21, 22, 23, 29, 67, 95
Digitalis (foxglove) 72, 80
D. purpurea 77
D. p. f. albiflora 42–3
diseases 20, 410, 430–3
preventing 265, 410, 430, 431,
432–3
see also blackspot; box blight;
clematis wilt; powdery mildew;
silver leaf disease; sooty mould
dividing plants 18, 41, 127, 144, 291,
327, 416
dog rose see Rosa canina
dogs 55
dogwood see Cornus
x Doritaenopsis ‘Taida Pearl’ 372
Draba hispanica 137
drainage 12, 15, 41, 43, 51, 209, 331
containers 106, 110, 125, 157, 285,
370
drought-tolerant plants 76, 198–9,
308, 315
raised beds 155, 189, 254, 255,
256
vegetables 254, 256, 257, 270, 271
drift planting 35, 95, 337
drought-tolerant plants 80, 82, 116,
136–7, 169, 171, 199, 406
gravel gardens 17, 76–7, 344
dry, shady areas 57, 58–9
dry stone walls 203, 204–5
drying flowers 72, 73
Dryopteris filix-mas 57, 123, 189, 336–7
duckweed 327, 339
dwarf conifers 100–1, 142, 150–1, 242,
243
dwarfing rootstocks 296, 297, 298,
299, 320
Dypsis lutescens 381
E
easy-care border 82–3
Eccremocarpus scaber 224
Echeveria pulvinata 390
Echinacea purpurea ‘Rubinstern’ 70–1
Echinocereus pulchellus 390
Echinops (globe thistle) 73, 418
Echinopsis multiplex 390
Echium vulgare ‘Blue Bedder’ 78, 352
edging 32–3
edible flowers 54, 268–9
elder see Sambucus
endive ‘Pancalieri’ 288
Enkianthus deflexus 45
Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelii’ 128–9
Epidendrum 374, 375
E. prismatocarpum 373
Epimedium x versicolor 81
Equisetum 337
E. hyemale var. affine 336–7
Eragrostis ‘Totnes Burgundy’ 142
Eranthis hyemalis (winter aconite)
34–5
Erica (heather) 156, 417, 421
E. arborea var. alpina ‘Albert’s Gold’
150–1
E. carnea 45, 100–1
E. c. f. aureifolia ‘Foxhollow’ 244–5
ericaceous compost 44, 159, 162,
301
ericaceous fertilizer 44, 301
Erigeron
E. compositus var. discoideus 137
E. karvinskianus 204, 205
Eriobotrya japonica (loquat) 60–1, 78,
177
Eryngium (sea holly) 73, 418
E. giganteum 77
E. x tripartitum 78
Erysimum (wallflower) 19, 114, 420
E. ‘Bowles’ Mauve’ 42–3
E. cheiri 114
E. c. ‘Fire King’ 48
Erythronium 56–7
Escallonia 413
Eschscholzia (California poppy) 77
E. californica 113
Eucalyptus 182
Eucomis bicolor 140, 141
Euonymus 164, 238
E. fortunei 241
E. f. ‘Emerald Gaiety’ 154-5
E. f. ‘Emerald ’n’ Gold’ 59, 164
E. planipes 96
Eupatorium 70–1
E. purpureum 333
Euphorbia (spurge) 19, 345
E. characias Silver Swan 154–5
E. myrsinites 78
E. pulcherrima (poinsettia) 367,
392–3
E. p. ‘Freedom White’ 393
E. p. ‘Red Fox Infinity Red’ 393
E. p. ‘Sonora’ 393
E. p. ‘Spotlight Pink’ 393
evergreens 11, 156–7, 204, 205, 235,
413, 421, 428
hedges 194, 195
Exacum affine 385
exotic plants 17, 128–9
expanded clay pebbles 376
F
Fagus (beech) 81, 197
family gardens 17, 54–5
Fargesia murielae 144–5
<<
farmyard manure 12, 13, 15, 21, 22, 29,
139, 249, 404
as mulch 139, 196, 404, 405
see also borders; fruit; planting
Fatsia japonica 152, 154–5, 368–9
fedges 81
feeding 13, 64, 209, 230, 305, 404,
431, 433
borders 31, 51, 67, 82, 155, 245
containers 124, 125, 149, 152, 161, 169
fruit trees 296, 297
hedges 196, 199
houseplants 367, 374, 394, 395, 396
lawns 422, 423
roses 93, 139
shrubs 36
trees 182, 187, 296, 297
see also fertilizer
Felicia 420
fences, planting climbers against 219
fennel 50–1, 311, 314–15
ferns 56–7, 179, 181, 182–3, 187
in containers 16, 123, 143
as houseplants 368, 386–7
see also Adiantum; Asparagus;
Asplenium; Dryopteris; Nephrolepis;
Osmunda; Pellaea; Platycerium;
Polystichum; Pteris; tree ferns
fertilizer 13, 30, 31, 262, 404, 405
see also feeding; planting
Festuca 132
F. glauca 132
F. g. ‘Elijah Blue’ 134–5
F. g. ‘Golden Toupee’ 134–5
feverfew 77
Ficus (fig) 316
F. carica 90–1
F. pumila 368–9
fiery border 46–7
Filipendula purpurea 333
fir see Abies
firethorn see Pyracantha
fishponds 328–9
Fittonia verschaffeltii 382
flea beetles 287
fleece 61, 140, 298, 316, 317, 408,
409, 418
as protection from pests 257, 287
floribunda roses 415
flowering cherry see Prunus
flowering currant see Ribes
sanguineum
flowering quince see Chaenomeles
flowers
for cutting 72, 86
for drying 72, 73
edible 54, 268–9
focal points 98–9, 177, 180–1, 238, 243,
370, 380–1
foliage 19, 78, 81, 116–17, 305, 381, 413
see also autumn colour
foliage plants
for containers 116–17, 122–3, 132,
142–3, 157, 160–1, 164–5, 170–1
houseplants 368, 380–3
shrubs 44, 152, 153, 238, 241
trees 176, 177
tropical effects 17, 60–1
foliar feeds 13
Fontinalis antipyretica 327
forcing
bulbs 378–9
rhubarb 300
forget-me-not see Myosotis
formal pool 340–1
Forsythia 412, 419
F. x intermedia 194
Fortunella japonica 304
Fothergilla 417
fountains 342, 344–5
foxglove see Digitalis
Frankenia thymifolia 168–9
Fremontodendron californicum 235
French beans 229, 248–9
French marigold see Tagetes
Fritillaria (fritillary)
F. raddeana 39
frogs 55, 338–9, 355, 424, 425
frost damage 116, 117, 257, 413, 431
frost pockets 306
frost protection 87, 116, 140, 335,
408–9
fruit 298, 316, 317
ponds 324, 328
vegetables 252, 253, 257, 262, 265
fruit 16, 54
Mediterranean 316–17
for small spaces 296–9, 318–19
see also fruit trees; soft fruit;
superfruits
fruit cages 295, 321
fruit trees 14, 297, 316–21, 346, 431, 432
pruning 316, 317, 318, 321, 411
rootstocks 296, 297, 298, 299, 320
Fuchsia 121, 122, 412, 420
F. ‘Autumnale’ 122
F. ‘Genii’ 121
fungal diseases 405, 415, 431, 432–3
fungicides 418, 431, 432, 433
G
gabions 84–5
Galanthus (snowdrop) 38, 40, 41, 211,
230–1
G. nivalis 34–5, 39
garden compost 15, 21, 29, 239, 245,
308, 404
making 358–9, 361
garden styles 16–17
Gardenia jasminoides 385
garlic 270, 271
Garrya elliptica 195, 235
Gaultheria 164
G. mucronata 162–3
G. m. ‘Wintertime’ 96
G. procumbens 157, 164
G. tasmanica 96
Gazania 65
G. Chansonette Series 121
Geranium 92–3, 416
G. phaeum 80
G. pratense ‘Mrs Kendall Clark’ 69
geraniums, bedding see Pelargonium
germination 12, 188, 276, 349
Geum rivale 80
ginger 302, 303
Gladiolus 428
Glechoma 132, 250–1
G. hederacea ‘Variegata’ 132
globe thistle see Echinops
globeflower see Trollius europaeus
Gloriosa superba (glory lily) 129
Glyceria maxima ‘Variegata’ 328–9
goji berries 295
golden oregano 310
gooseberries 295, 298, 429
grape hyacinth see Muscari
grape vine see Vitis
grass border 52–3
grasses 11, 17, 18, 19, 115, 242, 348–9
in borders 52–3, 70–1, 94–5, 244–5
in containers 114, 134
see also Briza; Calamagrostis; Carex;
Cortaderia; Deschampsia; Eragrostis;
Festuca; Helictotrichon; Lagurus;
Miscanthus; Panicum; Pennisetum;
Setaria; Sorghum; Stipa
gravel 143, 170–1, 344, 345, 356
for drainage 106, 137, 331, 335, 396
gravel gardens 17, 76–7, 344
green roofs 16, 356–7
greenfly see aphids
greenhouses 16, 228, 272–3, 287, 304,
419
heated 64, 128, 228, 374, 375
Grevillea rosmarinifolia 45
grit see horticultural grit
ground ivy see Glechoma
groundcover 65, 425
grow bags, tomatoes in 272–3
growth 12–13
guelder rose see Viburnum opulus
Gunnera manicata 84–5, 332, 333, 335
Guzmania dissitiflora 384
Gynura aurantiaca 371
H
half-hardy annuals 73, 112, 113
hanging baskets 110, 130–3, 156–7,
250–1, 291, 312–13
indoor 370–1, 387
INDEX
hardening off 64, 109, 120, 229, 251,
277, 280, 421
hardy annuals 11, 73, 112, 113
Haworthia attenuata f. clariperla 390
hawthorn see Crataegus
hazel 306, 307
see also Corylus
heather see Calluna; Erica
heavy soils 14, 22, 52, 308
improving 15, 67, 71, 82, 206, 270,
271
Hebe 352, 420
H. x franciscana ‘Silver Queen’ 152
H. ‘Great Orme’ 352
Hedera (ivy) 56–7, 100–1, 156–7, 212,
213, 370–1, 417
H. colchica 238
H. helix 189, 238
H. h. ‘Cavendishii’ 238
H. h. ‘Eva’ 165
H. h. ‘Glacier’ 238
H. h. ‘Little Diamond’ 122
H. h. ‘Oro di Bogliasco’ 238
hedges 18, 55, 80, 81, 192–9, 295, 347
box 90–1, 194, 197, 308–9
planting by 80–1, 406
Helenium 416
H. ‘Moerheim Beauty’ 46–7
Helianthemum (rock rose)
H. apenninum 152
Helianthus (sunflower) 12, 54, 64–5
H. annuus ‘Dwarf Yellow Spray’
64–5
H. a. ‘Teddy Bear’ 64–5
Helictotrichon sempervirens 53, 164
Heliopsis helianthoides Loraine
Sunshine 82–3
heliotropes 121
Helleborus (hellebore) 35
H. x hybridus 34–5
Hemerocallis (daylily) 90–1
herb circle 314–15
herbaceous perennials see perennials
herbicides 21, 209, 402, 403, 423
herbs 90–1, 104, 169, 202, 250–1,
284–5, 308–15, 421
Thai herbs 302–3
Heuchera 122, 140, 416
H. ‘Amber Waves’ 148–9
H. ‘Beauty Colour’ 74–5
H. ‘Plum Pudding’ 122
Hibiscus 78
H. rosa-sinensis 129, 385
H. syriacus ‘Boule de Feu’ 79
high potash fertilizer 316
Hippeastrum (amaryllis) 366–7
H. ‘Apple Blossom’ 367
H. ‘Giraffe’ 367
H. ‘Lucky Strike’ 367
H. ‘Prelude’ 367
437
438 INDEX
>>
hoeing 23, 402
holly see Ilex
hollyhock see Alcea
honeyberries 295
honeysuckle see Lonicera
hop see Humulus
hormone rooting powder 417, 420, 421
hornbeam see Carpinus
horse chestnut 188, 429
horsetail see Equisetum
horsetail (weed) 403
horticultural grit 15, 29, 110, 161, 169,
370
for herbs 199, 308, 315
for lawns 206, 208, 209
for lilies 124, 125
horticultural sand 136, 137, 203, 207,
209, 349, 422
hoses 23, 80, 201, 233, 331, 406, 407,
422, 427
host plants 11, 213, 220, 239
Hosta 31, 56, 122, 160–1, 181, 328–9,
416, 426
H. ‘August Moon’ 160–1
H. fortunei f. aurea 160–1
H. ‘Francee’ 160–1
H. ‘Great Expectations’ 335
H. ‘Krossa Regal’ 160–1
H. sieboldiana 123
H. undulata var. albomarginata
84–5
H. u. var. undulata 340–1
houseleek see Sempervivum
houseplant fertilizer 393
houseplants
cleaning foliage 381
containers for 368, 380, 381, 384,
387, 396
feeding 367, 374, 393, 394, 395
holiday care 385
re-flowering 393, 394–5
repotting 394, 395
watering 384, 385, 387, 393, 395,
396
hoverflies 352, 425
Howea belmoreana 381
Hoya (wax plant)
H. carnosa 385
H. lanceolata subsp. bella 385
humidity 368, 374, 375, 376, 384,
385, 387
Humulus (hop)
H. lupulus ‘Aureus’ 222–3, 224
Hyacinthus 378, 379
H. orientalis ‘Blue Jacket’ 39
hybrid tea roses 415
Hydrangea 45
H. paniculata 412
H. serrata ‘Bluebird’ 153
H. villosa 37
hygiene 23, 99, 199, 430, 431
Hypericum calycinum 81
Hypoestes phyllostachya 371
I
Iberis umbellata 65
ice plant see Sedum spectabile
Ilex (holly) 189, 192, 347
I. x altaclerensis ‘Golden King’
240–1
I. aquifolium 192, 193
I. a. ‘Madame Briot’ 195
Impatiens 420
I. walleriana (busy Lizzie) 122, 123,
132
Imperata cylindrica ‘Rubra’ 244–5
Indocalamus tessellatus 144–5
indoor hanging baskets 370–1, 387
insecticides 425, 428, 429
insects 55, 68, 339, 352–3
beneficial 254–5, 324, 352, 355, 357,
362, 424, 425
pollination by 13, 317, 346, 362, 425
see also bees; butterflies; pests
intercropping 283, 287
Ipomoea (morning glory) 126
I. purpurea 224
Iris 31, 416
bearded 170–1
I. chrysographes ‘Black Knight’ 74–5
I. laevigata 329, 338–9
I. l. var. alba 340–1
I. l. ‘Variegata’ 340–1
I. sibirica 332
I. s. ‘Shirley Pope’ 332
iron 13, 44
Itea ilicifolia 236
I. virginica 236
ivy see Hedera
J
Jacob’s ladder see Polemonium
Japanese anemone see Anemone x
hybrida
Japanese maple see Acer
Jasminum (jasmine) 118, 239, 398
J. nudiflorum 239
J. polyanthum 385, 399
jostaberries 295
Judas tree see Cercis siliquastrum
Juniperus (juniper) 142
J. communis ‘Compressa’ 243
J. c. ‘Sentinel’ 243
J. ‘Grey Owl’ 150–1
J. x pfitzeriana ‘Gold Sovereign’ 243
J. procumbens ‘Nana’ 243
J. scopulorum ‘Blue Arrow’ 243
K
Kalanchoe 385
K. blossfeldiana 391, 398
kale 91
Kalmia latifolia 45
Kerria japonica ‘Golden Guinea’ 58
Kniphofia (red hot poker)
K. ‘Bees’ Sunset’ 46–7
K. ‘Percy’s Pride’ 244–5
kumquat see Fortunella japonica
L
laburnum walkways 186–7
Laburnum x watereri 185
ladder, for displaying pots 166–7
ladybirds 352, 355, 425
Lagarosiphon major 327
Lagurus (hare’s tails) 73
L. ovatus 115
lamb’s lettuce 287
Lamium (deadnettle) 122
L. galeobdolon 122, 148–9
L. maculatum ‘Aureum’ 157
L. m. ‘White Nancy’ 58
landscape fabric 76–7, 309, 405
Lantana 385, 420
L. camara 129, 385
larkspur 73
Lathyrus odoratus (sweet pea) 72,
228–9
Laurus nobilis (bay) 152, 172–3, 238,
241, 308, 309
Lavandula (lavender) 73, 80, 197,
308–9, 344, 345, 352, 421
hedges 194, 198–9
L. angustifolia 268
L. a. Blue Cushion 82–3
L. a. ‘Hidcote’ 352
L. a. ‘Munstead’ 49
L. a. ‘Nana Alba’ 79
L. a. ‘Twickel Purple’ 194
L. stoechas 50–1
L. s. ‘Willow Vale’ 153
Lavatera (mallow) 412
lavender see Lavandula
lawns 17, 203, 206–7, 208, 209, 422–3
chamomile 209
seeding 208, 423
turfing 206–7, 208, 209
layering 417
leafmould 34, 35, 36, 360–1
leeks 91, 264, 409, 428
lemon balm 310, 314–15
lemon grass 302, 303
lemon trees, from pips 304
lettuces 90–1, 283, 284–5, 286–7,
288, 409
varieties 288
Leucanthemum
L. x superbum 352
Leucothoe Scarletta 162–3
Leycesteria formosa 97
light 12, 18, 375, 381, 384, 393, 394,
395
Ligularia 416
L. stenocephala ‘The Rocket’ 333
Ligustrum (privet) 197
L. obtusifolium 194
L. ovalifolium ‘Aureum’ 81
lilac see Syringa
Lilium (lily) 72, 124–5
L. auratum 124
L. candidum 124
L. hansonii 124
L. longiflorum 50–1
L. ‘Muscadet’ 125
L. Oriental Hybrids ‘Arabian Red’ 124
L. Oriental Hybrids ‘Star Gazer’ 124
L. Oriental Hybrids ‘Tiger Woods’
124
L. regale 124
L. ‘Reinesse’ 125
L. speciosum var. rubrum 124
lily beetles 124, 424
lily-of-the-valley see Convallaria
majalis
lily pond 340–1
lime 361, 423
Limonium (statice) 73
L. bellidifolium 137
liquid fertilizer 128, 139, 199, 229, 303,
359, 384, 404
Lithops pseudotruncatella subsp.
dentritica 390
living willow 232–3
loam 14, 422
Lobelia 130, 131
L. erinus 166–7
L. ‘Hadspen Purple’ 328–9
Lobularia maritima ‘Snow Crystals’ 352
log piles 355, 425
logs 85, 356–7
Lonicera (honeysuckle) 212–13, 213,
345, 352, 412, 417
L. nitida ‘Baggesen’s Gold’ 81
L. periclymenum 212–13, 353
L. p. ‘Serotina’ 224
L. x purpusii 412
loquat see Eriobotrya japonica
Lotus berthelotii 130, 131
love-in-a-mist see Nigella damascena
love-lies-bleeding see Amaranthus
caudatus
low-maintenance border 82–3
Lupinus (lupin) 68, 420
L. ‘Inverewe Red’ 69
L. ‘The Governor’ 350–1
Lychnis flos-cuculi 338–9
<<
Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’ 121,
340–1
Lythrum virgatum 70–1
M
Macleaya 418
Magnolia 408, 417
M. liliiflora ‘Nigra’ 184
M. stellata 408
Mahonia 48, 413, 421
M. x media cultivar 48
M. x wagneri 82
Maianthemum racemosum 81
mallow see Lavatera; Malope
Malope trifida (annual mallow) 268,
269
Malus (apple) see apple
Malus (crab apple)
M. ‘John Downie’ 184
M. x magdeburgensis 177
M. x moerlandsii ‘Liset’ 176
Mammillaria blossfeldiana 391
M. hahniana 388–9
mangetout 274, 275
manure see farmyard manure
maple see Acer
Maranta leuconeura 383
marginal plants 11, 326, 328, 338, 339,
340, 341
marguerite see Anthemis
marigold see Calendula; Tagetes
marjoram 90–1
marrow 279
marsh marigold see Caltha palustris
meadows 348–9
mealy bugs 304
Meconopsis cambrica 77
Medinilla magnifica 128–9
Mediterranean fruit 316–17
Mediterranean plants 14, 78–9, 344,
345
Mentha (mint) 310, 314–15
M. cervina 327
M. requienii 202
mesh, anti-pest 229, 258, 259, 265,
287
mesh crates (gabions) 84–5
Mexican orange blossom see Choisya
mice 290, 427
Miltoniopsis hybrid 372
mind-your-own-business see Soleirolia
soleirolii
minerals 13, 44, 273, 275, 404, 422, 431
miniature daffodils 156, 379
miniature roses 138–9
miniature woodland 189
mint see Mentha
Miscanthus
M. sinensis 52–3, 94–5
M. s. ‘Morning Light’ 52–3
M. s. ‘Zebrinus’ 52–3
misting 203, 249, 305, 374, 376,
382, 384
mixed hedges 194
mock orange see Philadelphus
modern gardens 17, 19, 84–5, 90–3,
154–5, 170–1, 242
modern rose garden 92–3
module trays 109, 112, 115, 120,
262, 302
moisture-loving plants 31, 84–5, 330-1,
332-3, 334-5, 336-7
moisture-retentive gel crystals 110,
406
Monarda 416
M. didyma (bergamot) 268
M. ‘Mahogany’ 353
monkshood see Aconitum
Monstera deliciosa 381
montbretia see Crocosmia
morning glory see Ipomoea
Morus nigra (mulberry) 347
moss 63, 355, 376–7, 378, 387, 423
mother-in-law’s tongue see
Sansevieria trifasciata
mowing 203, 208, 422
mowing edges 32–3
mulberry see Morus
mulches 110, 296, 405, 407, 412
mulching 31, 110, 402, 405, 406, 407,
413, 433
multi-stemmed trees 182–3
Musa basjoo (banana) 17, 60–1, 408
Muscari (grape hyacinth) 41, 106–7,
163
M. armeniacum 38
mushroom compost (spent) 12, 15
mushrooms 281
mycorrhizal fungi 93, 139
Myosotis (forget-me-not) 19
M. scorpioides ‘Alba’ 338–9
Myriophyllum aquaticum 327
N
Narcissus (daffodil)
N. ‘Bartley’ 107
N. ‘Canaliculatus’ 38
N. ‘Dove Wings’ 107
N. ‘Soleil d’Or’ 379
N. ‘Tahiti’ 107
N. ‘Tête-à-Tête’ 39, 379
N. ‘Topolino’ 163
see also daffodil
nasturtium see Tropaeolum
nematodes 110, 427, 429
Nemesia 132, 133
N. strumosa ‘KLM’ 121, 133
Nepeta (catmint) 55, 416, 420
Nephrolepis exaltata 368
Nerium oleander 79
nest boxes for birds 363
nests for bees 362
netting 208, 274, 275, 295, 321, 427
New Zealand flax see Phormium
Nicotiana (tobacco plant) 80
N. ‘Lime Green’ 140, 141
N. ‘Nicki’ 121
N. x sanderae cultivar 112
Nigella (love-in-a-mist) 73, 112
N. damascena Persian Jewel Group
77, 113
nitrogen 273, 275, 404, 422
north-facing rooms, plants for 382–3
nutrients 12, 13, 14, 44, 176, 273, 275,
327, 349, 404, 431
nuts 306–7
Nymphaea (water lily) 11, 326, 327,
328, 340–1, 342
N. ‘Alba’ 340–1
N. ‘Albida’ 328–9
N. ‘Escarboucle’ 342
N. ‘Froebelii’ 343
N. ‘Gonnère’ 342
N. ‘Lemon Chiffon’ 342
N. ‘Marliacea Chromatella’ 343
N. ‘Odorata Sulphurea’ 343
N. ‘Pygmaea Rubra’ 340–1
N. ‘René Gérard’ 342
N. ‘Rose Arey’ 342
N. tetragona 342
N. ‘Virginalis’ 343
O
oak see Quercus
obelisks 213, 216–18, 228, 229, 306
Ocimum
O. basilicum (basil) 90–1, 310
O. b. ‘Magic Mountain’ 312–13
Oncidium 374, 375
O. ‘Jungle Monarch’ 373
onions 270, 428
Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’
96, 167
Opuntia tuna 388–9
orchids 372–7, 398
oregano 310, 314–15
organic gardening 362, 426, 427
organic matter 12, 13, 15, 22, 29,
404, 405
see also farmyard manure; garden
compost; planting
Oriental greens 263, 409
Oriental leaves 286
Oriental mustards 288, 289
Orontium aquaticum 328–9
Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’ 150–1
Osmunda regalis 57
INDEX
Osteospermum cultivar 132
Oudolf, Piet 71
overwintering 61, 87, 124, 128, 129,
181, 408
oxalis 402, 403
oxygenating plants 326, 327, 328,
339, 341
P
Paeonia (peony) 72
P. cambessedesii 97
P. delavayi var. lutea 37
palms 104, 381, 382
pampas grass see Cortaderia
Panicum virgatum 170–1
pansy see Viola
Papaver (poppy) 77
P. orientale 418
P. rhoeas Shirley Group 112
Paphiopedilum 374, 375
P. callosum hybrid 373
parlour palm see Chamaedorea
elegans
Parodia
P. magnifica 390
P. pencillata 390
parsley 310, 312–13, 314–15
parsnips 265, 409
parterres, creating 308–9
Parthenocissus
P. henryana 213, 221
P. tricuspidata 213, 221
P. t. ‘Lowii’ 221
Passiflora (passion flower) 213, 417,
420
pastel border 42–3
patio roses 138–9, 415
patios 16, 18, 140–3, 148–9, 154–5,
170–1
fruit 298–9, 304
vegetables 250–1, 253, 280
pavers, laying 202–3
paving, plants for 204–5
pea sticks 229, 251, 274, 275, 307
peace lily see Spathiphyllum
peaches 298, 316, 317, 408
pears 297, 299, 320, 346, 411
peas 274–5
pebbles 33, 85, 328, 337, 344, 345,
368–9, 388
as mulch 119, 166, 167, 296, 405
Pelargonium 64–5, 121, 200–1, 420
P. ‘Horizon Series’ 121
Pellaea 387
P. rotundifolia 387
Pennesetum
P. alopecuroides 52–3
P. a. ‘Little Bunny’ 244–5
Penstemon 420
439
440 INDEX
>>
Pentas lanceolata 398
peony see Paeonia
Peperomia
P. caperata ‘Luna’ 382
P. c. ‘Luna Red’ 368–9
perennial weeds 21, 23, 77, 192, 356,
402, 403
perennials 11, 16, 19, 20, 30–1, 406,
408
for cottage gardens 66–9, 126
cutting down 52, 67, 71, 96, 351,
425
for cutting and drying 72, 73
for insects 18, 350–1, 352, 353
propagating 18, 127, 416, 418, 420
staking 67, 95, 230, 351
pergolas 220–1
Perovskia 412, 419
Persicaria microcephala ‘Red Dragon’
74–5, 336–7
pesticides 425, 428, 429
pests 20, 257, 259, 290, 424–9, 431,
natural predators 352, 355, 424,
425, 426
see also animals; flea beetles; lily
beetles; mealy bugs; pigeons; red
spider mites; scale insects; slugs;
snails; vine weevil
pets 55, 187, 427
Petunia 132, 133
P. Shockwave Series Pink 133
pH testing of soil 14, 423
Phalaenopsis 372, 374, 375
Philadelphus (mock orange) 412, 419
P. ‘Burfordensis’ 48
P. microphyllus 153
Philodendron bipinnatifidum 383
Phlox 416
P. nana 204
P. paniculata 418
P. stolonifera 56–7
Phormium (New Zealand flax) 117
P. ‘Bronze Baby’ 117
P. cookianum subsp. hookeri
‘Tricolor’ 117
P. ‘Jester’ 117
P. ‘Sundowner’ 78, 117
P. tenax ‘Variegatum’ 117, 140
phosphorus 273, 404
Photinia 241
P. x fraseri ‘Red Robin’ 241
photosynthesis 12, 374
Phyllostachys bambusoides
‘Holochrysa’ 144–5
Picea (spruce)
P. abies 158
P. pungens 243
P. p. ‘Koster’ 242
Pieris japonica ‘Flamingo’ 152
pigeons 265, 427
Pilea depressa 396–7
pinching out 87, 228, 273, 280, 283,
309, 315, 316, 393
pink see Dianthus
Pinus (pine) 242
P. aristata ‘Sherwood Compact’ 242
P. heldreichii ‘Smidtii’ 243, 244–5
P. mugo ‘Ophir’ 244–5
Pittosporum
P. tenuifolium ‘Silver Queen’ 350–1
plaiting a bay tree 172–3
plant movers 128
planting 18–19, 21, 22, 430
bulbs 35, 40–1, 43, 107, 211
climbers 118–19, 212–13, 239
fruit trees 296, 318–19, 320, 321
perennials 30–1, 406
shrubs 31, 36, 235, 406
soft fruit 291, 292, 293, 298
tree ferns 180–1
trees 31, 178–9, 182, 190–1, 320,
406
wall shrubs 234–5
planting depths 30, 31, 63, 119, 219,
252
bulbs 41, 124
hedging plants 193, 196, 197
roses 93, 139, 193
shrubs 31, 36, 199, 234, 238
trees 178, 191, 320
planting out 64, 229, 249, 262, 263,
264
planting proud 31, 171, 178, 199
planting up pots 110
plants 10–13
choosing 12, 20, 29
grouping 19, 20, 315
storing 21
plastic bottles, for cloches 287, 426
Platycerium bifurcatum 387
play areas 17, 54, 202, 233, 405
Pleioblastus
P. variegatus 144–5
P. v. ‘Tsuboii’ 144–5
plug plants 91, 120–1, 251, 302
Plumbago 385
P. auriculata 385
plums 297, 321, 411, 432
poinsettia see Euphorbia pulcherrima
Polemonium (Jacob’s ladder) 416
P. caeruleum 59
P. viscosum 137
pollarding 100, 230–1
pollination 13, 282, 295, 306, 307, 317,
321, 352, 425
Polygonatum (Solomon’s seal) 31,
429
Polystichum
P. polyblepharum 163
P. setiferum 60–1
pond liner 324, 326, 330–1, 337,
339, 356
pond plants 324, 325, 326, 327, 338–9
ponds 55, 324–9, 340–1, 424, 425
Pontederia cordata 328–9
poppy see Papaver
pot marigold see Calendula officinalis
“pot-bound” plants see “root-bound”
pot-grown plants 41, 158, 197, 307,
320
potassium 273, 316, 404, 422
potatoes 251, 252–3, 433
Potentilla fruticosa ‘Goldfinger’ 195
pots 64, 200–1, 229
clay 104, 105, 110, 150–1, 407, 409
frostproof 105, 143, 150–1, 161, 162,
344–5, 409
see also containers
potting on 108, 115, 280, 303, 370
powdery mildew 274, 433
power sources 337, 345
prairie-style planting 28, 30, 70–1
predators 352, 424, 425, 426
Primula 164, 335, 337, 398
P. Gold-laced Group 123
P. japonica 332
P. j. ‘Miller’s Crimson’ 332
P. obconica 399
P. Polyanthus Group, Crescendo
Series 165
P. pulverulenta Bartley hybrids
336–7
privacy 11, 18, 170–1
privet see Ligustrum
propagation 416–21
pruning 22, 23, 410–15
Clematis 119, 239, 412, 414
for coloured stems 230–1
diseased material 410, 412, 413,
415, 430, 431, 432, 433
fruit trees 316, 317, 318, 319, 321, 411
herbs 315
roses 351, 411, 415
shrubs 44, 82, 235, 238, 412–13
soft fruit 292, 293, 295, 298
standard plants 240–1
topiary (established) 98
trees 182, 187, 191, 306, 307, 347,
411
wall shrubs 235
Wisteria 226–7
see also coppicing; trimming
hedges
Prunus 177, 190–1, 297, 347, 411
P. avium 90–1
P. incisa 191
P. serrula 176
P. ‘Shizuka’ 191
P. spinosa (blackthorn) 192, 193,
347
P. ‘Spire’ 191
P. x subhirtella 191
P. x s. ‘Autumnalis Rosea’ 184
Pteris 387
P. ensiformis ‘Evergemiensis’ 387
Pulmonaria 416
P. ‘Lewis Palmer’ 58
pumpkin 277, 278–9, 283
pumps 337, 344, 345
Punica granatum var. nana 385
Pyracantha 234–5, 411
P. ‘Mohave’ 195
Q
Quercus (oak) 189, 241
quince, flowering see
Chaenomeles
R
rabbits 55, 427
radicchio 289
radish 261
rainbow chard 250–1, 260
rainwater 22, 301, 304, 305, 374, 376,
384, 406
raised beds 16, 44, 54, 55, 154–5, 189,
251, 254–9
raspberries 292
Rebutia 388–9
recycling 16, 29, 134–5, 405, 409
red spider mites 305, 429
red-hot poker see Kniphofia
red-veined sorrel 289
redcurrants 298
repotting 104, 127, 144, 151, 159,
327, 367
houseplants 394, 395
reproduction 13
Rhodochiton atrosanguineus 224
Rhododendron 44, 417, 432, 433
R. ‘Hydon Dawn’ 152
R. luteum 49
R. mucronulatum 44–5
rhubarb 300
Ribes 412, 419
R. sanguineum 37
rock rose see Cistus; Helianthemum
rockery, shady 56–7
rockery walls 203
rocket 287, 288, 289, 409
Rodgersia 332
R. sambucifolia 332
Romneya 418
roof terraces 170–1
roofs, green 16, 356–7
root vegetables 255, 256–7, 409
roots 12, 13, 20, 119, 318, 374
perennial weeds 402
restricting 63, 316
<<
“root-bound” plants 20, 31, 178,
394, 395
rootstocks, dwarfing 296, 297, 298,
299, 320
Rosa (rose)
R. canina 192, 193, 352
R. ‘Compassion’ 225
R. Escapade 48
R. Gertrude Jekyll 50–1
R. glauca 193
R. ‘Regensburg’ 138–9
R. ‘Rose of Picardy’ 90–1, 350–1
R. rugosa ‘Rubra’ 37
R. ‘Seagull’ 222–3
R. Summer Wine 268
R. Winchester Cathedral 92–3
rose arches 222–3
rose fertilizer 93, 139, 404
rose gardens, modern 92–3
rosemary see Rosmarinus officinalis
roses 14, 73, 80, 139, 268, 345, 352,
429
climbing 212, 213, 224, 225
cuttings 419
diseases 415, 432
feeding 93, 139
hedging 193
old-fashioned roses 51
patio roses 138–9, 415
planting 51, 93, 193
pruning 351, 411, 415
species roses 193
standards 241
varieties 415
see also Rosa; rose arches; rose
gardens
Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) 241,
308, 309, 311, 421
rowan see Sorbus
ruby chard 260
Rudbeckia 72, 416
R. hirta ‘Prairie Sun’ 154–5
runner beans 229, 248–9, 261, 307
S
sacks, for growing potatoes 253
safety 54, 55, 187, 344, 345, 411
sage see Salvia
Saintpaulia (African violet) 398
salad leaves 284–6, 286–9
Salix (willow) 182, 230–1, 419
S. alba 232
S. a. var. vitellina ‘Britzensis’ 100–1
S. caprea ‘Kilmarnock’ 237
S. hastata 237
S. h. ‘Wehrhahnii’ 236
S. lanata 236
S. reticulata 237
Salvia 311, 420, 421
S. farinacea 166–7
S. f. ‘Strata’ 64–5
S. officinalis ‘Tricolor’ 148–9
S. sclarea var. turkestanica 66, 67
S. x sylvestris ‘Mainacht’ 74–5
Sambucus (elder) 346, 347, 413, 419
sand 76, 136, 137, 202, 207, 209
as mulch for cacti 388, 389
for sowing wildflower seed 349
sandpits 54
sandy soils 14, 15, 78, 206, 317
Sansevieria trifasciata 383
Santolina (cotton lavender) 308–9, 419
Sarcococca 421
S. confusa (Christmas box) 49
Saxifraga 203
S. juniperifolia 137
S. stolonifera ‘Tricolor’ 58
Scabiosa lucida 357
scale insects 304, 428
scented border 50–1
scented plants 11, 48–51, 124–5, 129,
177, 239, 305
aromatic foliage 78, 305
houseplants 385, 398
Schlumbergera (Christmas cactus) 395
Scilla siberica 38
Scirpus cernuus 381
screens 47, 62–3, 194, 232
sculptural plants 116–17, 180–1, 380–1
sea holly see Eryngium
seasonal planner 24–5
seating areas 15, 16, 48, 177, 238, 341
sedge see Carex
Sedum 31, 416
S. acre 357
S. ‘Herbstfreude’ 94–5
S. ‘Lemon Coral’ 148–9
S. spathulifolium ‘Cape Blanco’ 204
S. s. ‘Purpureum’ 137
S. spectabile 70–1, 353
S. telephium ‘Bressingham Purple’
82–3
sedum matting, for green roofs 356–7
seed compost 108–9, 115, 228, 276,
280, 302
seedheads 43, 52, 70, 73
seedlings 64, 109, 409, 430
planting out 64, 229, 249, 262, 263,
264
potting on 109, 115, 280
seeds 13, 108–9, 112–13, 115, 266, 283
germination 12, 188, 276, 349
sowing 108, 228, 249, 261, 430
sprouting 266, 267
trees from 188–9
wildflower seeds 349
seep hoses 80, 233, 331, 407, 422
self-seeding 11, 43, 77, 115
Sempervivum (houseleek) 136, 169
Senecio
S. cineraria 65
S. c. ‘Silver Dust’ 165
S. rowleyanus 381
Setaria italica 115
shade 15, 18, 80, 81, 140, 176, 177,
219, 328
shade, plants for 12, 36–7, 56–7, 81,
122–3, 180–1, 187, 382–3
shady areas 34–7, 56–7, 80, 180–1
shallots 270, 271
Shasta daisy see Leucanthemum x
superbum
sheds 16, 22, 87
shells 136, 405
shingle 33, 309
shrub fertilizer 182, 187, 220, 235, 239
shrub roses 415
shrubs 11, 18, 20, 36–7, 82, 240–1, 352
in containers 135, 150–3, 164, 165
planting 36, 235, 406
propagating 417, 419, 421
pruning 44, 82, 235, 412–13
wall shrubs 234–5, 239, 411
Silene acaulis 137
silver birch see Betula pendula
silver leaf disease 306, 321, 432
silver-leaved thyme 50–1
“single digging” 21, 29
Sisyrinchium 31
site preparation 36, 47
Skimmia 417
S. japonica ‘Rubella’ 150–1, 156, 165
slate 33, 85, 137, 151, 166, 167, 309,
355, 405
slate trough 137
slow-release fertilizer 110, 404
slugs 290, 424, 425, 426
deterring 87, 110, 161, 285, 290,
300, 405, 424, 426
smoke bush see Cotinus
snails 110, 161, 284, 285, 339, 424,
425, 426
snapdragon see Antirrhinum
snowdrop see Galanthus
soft fruit 290–3, 298, 300, 405, 417,
419, 433
soil 12, 14–15, 176, 404
improving 12, 15, 29, 67, 192, 308
preparation 12, 21, 192, 193, 196,
198, 208, 209
Solanum crispum ‘Glasnevin’ 225
Soleirolia soleirolii 16, 169, 202, 368–9
Solenostemon scutellarioides 132
Solomon’s seal see Polygonatum
sooty mould 427, 433
Sorbus
S. aria 347
S. vilmorinii 176
Sorghum nigrum 115
INDEX
sorrel, red-veined 289
Spathiphyllum (peace lily) 394
S. ‘Mauna Loa’ 382
S. wallisii 380
species roses 193, 415
spent mushroom compost 12, 15
spider plant see Chlorophytum
comosum
spinach 263
Spiraea 419
S. ‘Arguta’ 412
spraying 428, 429, 431, 432
spread of plants 18, 20, 243
spring cabbage 262
spring onions 287
spring-flowering plants 34–5, 38–41,
106–7, 230–1
sprouting beans 266, 267
spruce see Picea
spurge see Euphorbia
squash 276–9
‘Hasta la Pasta’ 278
‘Hooligan’ F1 hybrid 279
‘Little Gem Rollet’ 279
‘Red Kuri’ 278
‘Sunburst’ hybrid 250–1
‘Sweet Dumpling’ 278
‘Tromboncino’ 251, 279
‘Turk’s Turban’ 278
Stachys officinalis ‘Hummelo’ 127
staking 47, 64, 86, 280, 296
perennials 67, 95, 230, 351
tomatoes 91, 272, 273
trees 179, 182, 189, 191, 306,
307, 320
standards 240–1, 242
statice see Limonium
stems 52, 171, 182–3, 230–1, 232
Stephanotis floribunda 385
sterilization 23, 98, 99, 199, 430, 431
Stipa
S. calamagrostis 52–3
S. gigantea 244–5
S. splendens 52–3
S. tenuissima 46–7, 74–5, 77, 94–5,
114, 163, 170–1
storage 253, 257, 270, 271, 277,
278, 431
straw 87, 355, 408, 409
as mulch 253, 257, 265, 277,
291,405
strawberries 290–1, 405
strawberry tree see Arbutus unedo
strawflower 73
stream-side, creating 336–7
Streptocarpus (Cape primrose) 365,
385
S. ‘Bethan’ 368–9
stress, signs of 431
styles 16–17
441
442 INDEX
>>
Styrax obassia 177
successional sowing 256, 262, 263,
275, 287
succulents 17, 31, 104, 136–7, 169, 368,
390–1
sugarsnap peas 274, 275
summer border, easy-care 82–3
summer squash ‘Sunburst’ hybrid
250–1
sun-loving plants 12, 35, 58, 66–9, 81
sunflowers see Helianthus
sunny areas 46–7, 52, 74–5, 170–1,
200–1
superfruits 294–5
Sutera cordata 138–9
swathes, planting in 70–1, 72, 350, 351
sweet alyssum see Lobularia maritima
sweet basil 90–1, 310
sweetcorn 282–3
sweet peas 72, 228–9
sweet Williams 72
swings 54
Syringa (lilac) 417
T
table-top displays 168–9
Tagetes (French marigold) 108, 111,
135, 142, 268
T. Gem Series ‘Tangerine Gem’ 269
Taxus baccata (yew) 80, 81, 194, 197
Tellima grandiflora 59
terracotta pots see clay pots
textured edge scheme 74–5
Thai herbs and spices 302–3
Thuja
T. occidentalis ‘Caespitosa’ 243
T. o. ‘Smaragd’ 243
Thunbergia alata 64–5
Thymus (thyme) 169, 202, 308, 309,
310, 312–13, 314–15
T. ‘Doone Valley’ 357
T. pulegioides ‘Archer’s Gold’ 162–3
silver-leaved 50–1
Tillandsia 384
T. cyanea 384
toads 55, 338, 355, 424, 425
tobacco plant see Nicotiana
Tolmiea menziesii 371
tomato fertilizer 124, 125, 167, 251,
273, 290, 313, 404
for fruit and vegetables 277, 280,
291, 292, 297, 298, 313
tomato 90–1, 272–3, 312–13, 429, 432,
433
‘Costoluto Fiorentino’ 250–1
‘Gardeners’ Delight’ 250–1
‘Tumbling Tom’ 250–1
tools 22–3, 98, 99, 199, 410, 411
care 23, 99, 199, 430, 431
top dressings 206, 209, 404, 422, 423
topiary 22, 98–9, 142, 146–7, 172, 241
topsoil 56, 206, 207, 255, 258, 349, 422
Townsendia jonesii 137
trace elements 13, 404
Trachelospermum jasminoides 225
Tradescantia fluminensis ‘Variegata’
371
training 235, 238–9, 317, 318–19, 321,
411
tree ferns 180–1, 382, 387, 408
tree fertilizer 182, 187, 220, 316, 317
trees 11, 18, 176–7, 184–5, 191, 419
in containers 135, 188, 189
feeding 182, 187, 296, 297
growing from seeds 188–9
multi-stemmed 182–3
planting 31, 178–9, 182, 190–1, 320,
406
pruning 182, 187, 347, 411
staking 179, 182, 189, 191, 306, 307,
320
watering 91, 179, 182, 187, 191, 407
for wildlife 346–7
see also fruit trees
trellis 118–19, 213, 220, 229, 235, 239,
293, 298
trickle hoses 80, 233, 331, 407, 422
Tricyrtis formosana 81
Trifolium repens ‘Purpurascens
Quadrifolium’ 92–3
trimming hedges 192, 193, 194, 199
Trollius europaeus 333
Tropaeolum (nasturtium) 54, 64–5, 77,
108, 111, 268, 312–13, 429
T. majus 269
T. speciosum 225
tropical effects 17, 60–1, 128–9
Tsuga canadensis ‘Cole’s Prostrate’ 243
Tulipa (tulip) 19, 40, 41, 72, 106–7, 187
T. ‘Diana’ 107
T. ‘Madame Lefeber’ 107
T. ‘Oriental Splendour’ 107
T. ‘Prinses Irene’ 38
T. sprengeri 39
turf 202, 203, 206, 326, 422
laying 206–7, 406
removing 29, 32, 255
tyres 54, 135
U
underplanting 36, 37, 128–9, 181,
182–3, 186–7, 191
urban gardens 90–1
V
variegated sage 311
vegetables 16, 54, 90–1, 250–1, 260–1,
312–13
Verbascum 31, 418
V. ‘Gainsborough’ 350–1
V. olympicum 66, 67
Verbena 420
V. bonariensis 28, 29, 77
V. ‘Derby’ 130, 131
V. ‘Peaches ’n’ Cream’ 130, 131
Veronica 416
V. spicata ’Alba’ 92–3
V. s. ‘Rosenrot’ 127
Viburnum 417, 419
V. carlesii ‘Aurora’ 49
V. davidii 58
V. opulus 193, 428
V. sieboldii 82
V. tinus 96, 428
V. t. ‘Variegatum’ 153
vine weevil 429
vines, climbing 220–1
Viola (pansy; violet) 56–7, 92–3, 122,
163, 312–13, 314–15
V. Princess Series 122
V. tricolor 268
V. x wittrockiana cultivar 164
winter-flowering 114, 156, 157
Virginia creeper see Parthenocissus
henryana
viruses 427, 431
Vitis (vine)
V. coignetiae 220
V. vinifera ‘Purpurea’ 220
Vriesea 381, 384
W
wall shrubs 234–5, 239, 411
wallflower see Erysimum
walls 200–1, 203, 219, 220, 234–5
fruit trees trained against 316–17,
321
water 12, 18, 55, 301, 406, 420, 430
growing in 303, 379
for misting 374, 376, 384
water butts 22, 406, 407
water lily see Nymphaea
water-retaining gel crystals 110
watering 12, 23, 104, 110, 385, 396,
406–7
green roofs 356
lawns 207, 208, 422, 423
watering cans 22, 137, 406
wax plant see Hoya
weed-suppressing membrane 76–7,
405
weeding 21, 63, 193, 206, 270, 351,
402–3
lawns 423
tools 22, 23
weedkillers 21, 209, 402, 403, 423
weeds 12, 77, 91, 402–3, 432
perennial 21, 23, 77, 192, 356, 402,
403, 423
suppressing 56, 76–7, 179, 309, 319,
337, 405
Weigela 412, 417, 419
white scheme 92–3
whitebeam see Sorbus aria
whitecurrants 298
wildflower meadows 348–9
wildlife 70, 96, 356–7, 362–3, 403
hedges for 80, 192–3, 194, 347, 355
meadows for 348–9
ponds and pools for 55, 324–7, 338–9
trees for 346–7
see also bees; birds; insects
wildlife hedges 192–3, 194, 347
wildlife ponds 324–7
wildlife walls 354–5
willow 230–3, 259, 355
see also Salix
windowboxes 64, 110, 125, 132–3,
162–3, 284–5, 291
winter aconite see Eranthis hyemalis
winter border 100–1
winter interest 11, 94–5, 100–1, 238–9
containers 156–7, 162–5
winter squash 277, 278–9, 283
winter windowbox 162–3
winter-flowering begonias 399
winter-flowering houseplants 398–9
winter-flowering pansies, Imperial
Antique Shades 163
winter-flowering violas 114, 156, 157
Wisteria 226–7, 241, 417
woodland plants 34–5, 36, 80, 189
wormeries 361, 404
worms 12, 361
Y
yarrow see Achillea
year-round interest 189, 243, 244–5
yew see Taxus baccata
Yucca 17, 116
Z
Zantedeschia
Z. aethiopica 60–1, 328–9, 332,
340–1
Z. a. ‘Crowborough’ 335
Zinnia 72
Z. elegans ‘Peppermint Stick’ 112
<<
PICTURE CREDITS
Picture Credits
The publisher would like to thank the following for their kind permission to reproduce their photographs:
(Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-center; f-far; l-left; r-right; t-top)
2-3 Photolibrary: Friedrich Strauss. 4 Marianne Majerus Garden
Images: Marianne Majerus/Elton Hall, Herefordshire. 5 GAP
Photos: Richard Bloom (r). Photolibrary: Michele Lamontagne
(l). 6 GAP Photos: Victoria Firmston (l). Photolibrary: John
Glover (r). 7 Photolibrary: Flora Press (l); Friedrich Strauss (r).
8-9 Photolibrary: Francesca Yorke. 10 Dorling Kindersley:
Design: Mike Harvey & Arun Landscapes, The Unwind Garden,
RHS Hampton Court 2007. 11 Caroline Reed (br). 12 Getty
Images: picturegarden (cr). 13 GAP Photos: Brian North (bc).
Photolibrary: Nicholas Rigg (tl). 16 Dorling Kindersley: Design:
Mark Gregory, The Children’s Society Garden, RHS Chelsea 2008
(all below). The Garden Collection: Nicola Stocken Tomkins (ca).
17 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Mike Harvey & Arun Landscapes,
The Unwind Garden, RHS Hampton Court 2007 (crb). Getty
Images: Ron Evans (cla). Marianne Majerus Garden Images:
Steven Gunther (bl); David Matzdorf (tr); Bennet Smith/Design:
Hazeldean, Beard and Hazeldean, On the Square, RHS Hampton
Court 2008 (clb). 18 Getty Images: Jules Frazier Photography
(cra); Mark Turner (bc). 19 Getty Images: Chris Mellor (bl).
20 Getty Images: Jules Frazier Photography (tr). 22 Getty
Images: FhF Greenmedia (fcl); Victoria Firmston (cl); Zara Napier
(cla). 26-27 Marianne Majerus Garden Images: Marianne
Majerus/RHS Garden, Wisley. 28 Marianne Majerus Garden
Images: Marianne Majerus/RHS Floral Celebration 2008, Inner
Temple. 31 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Cleve West, The Bupa
Garden, RHS Chelsea 2008 (tr). Marianne Majerus Garden
Images: Marianne Majerus/RHS Floral Celebration 2008, Inner
Temple (cl). 33 Dorling Kindersley: Design: James Mason &
Chloe Gazzard, The Path Not Taken, RHS Hampton Court 2007
(tr). GAP Photos: Jonathan Buckley, Design: Simon Hopkinson,
Location: Hollington Herb Nursery (crb). 34-35 Photolibrary:
Garden Pix Ltd.37 Marianne Majerus Garden Images: Marianne
Majerus/Longacre, Kent (l). 40 Getty Images: Mark Bolton.
42-43 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Denise Preston, The Largest
Room In The House, RHS Chelsea 2008. 44 Dorling Kindersley:
Design: Tomoko Osonoe, The Modern Rock Garden, RHS Chelsea
2009. 44-45 GAP Photos: Anne Green-Armytage, Design: Kay
Yamada. 46-47 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Kari Beardsell,
Benecol’s Prism Garden, RHS Hampton Court 2008; www.
bluebridge-gardendesign.co.uk. 48 Alamy Images: Photofrenetic
(cr). 49 GAP Photos: FhF Greenmedia (br). 50-51 Dorling
Kindersley: Design: Laurie Chetwood & Patrick Collins, Perfume
Garden, RHS Chelsea 2009; www.chetwoods.com. 52-53 GAP
Photos: S & O. 54 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Jon Wheatley,
Mary Payne & Terry Porter, The Growing Tastes Allotment
Garden, RHS Hampton Court 2009 (bl). Getty Images: JGI/Jamie
Grill (br). 55 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Amanda Yorwerth (tr).
59 Getty Images: Richard Bloom (l). 60-61 Dorling Kindersley:
Design: Annie Guilfoyle; www.annieguilfoyle.com. 62 Dorling
Kindersley: Design: Koji Ninomiya & Takumi Awai, A Japanese
Tranquil Retreat Garden, RHS Chelsea 2009. 63 Caroline Reed
(br). 66-67 Harpur Garden Library. 70 GAP Photos: Neil Holmes,
Design: Piet Oudolf (bl). Marianne Majerus Garden Images:
Marianne Majerus/Piet Oudolf (br). 70-71 GAP Photos: Neil
Holmes, Design: Piet Oudolf. 71 GAP Photos: Neil Holmes,
Design: Piet Oudolf. 72 Marianne Majerus Garden Images:
Marianne Majerus (cb). 73 Getty Images: Christina Bollen (t).
74-75 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Ian Dexter, Marshalls Garden
That Kids Really Want, RHS Chelsea 2008. 76 GAP Photos: Clive
Nichols, Design: Clare Matthews (cr). 77 GAP Photos: Juliette
Wade (tr). 81 Getty Images: Geoff du Feu (bc); Travel Ink (crb).
82 GAP Photos: Richard Bloom (ca). Getty Images: Lee Avison
(crb); Richard Bloom (bc). 83 GAP Photos: Richard Bloom.
84 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Alan Burns & Philip Dugdale,
Cubed3, RHS Tatton Park 2009; tel:07921860092. 86 Getty
Images: Mark Turner (l). 89 Caroline Reed (tr). 90-91 Dorling
Kindersley: Design: Adam Frost, Back To Work, RHS Hampton
Court 2009; www.adamfrost.com (all). 92 Dorling Kindersley:
Design: Jeff Hewitt, Jacob’s Ladder, RHS Chelsea 2009;
www.hewittlandscapes.co.uk. 94-95 Clive Nichols: Pettifers
Garden, Oxfordshire. 96 GAP Photos: Pernilla Bergdahl (l); Elke
Borkowski (cr); Graham Strong (br); John Glover (tr). 97 GAP
Photos: Rob Whitworth (l). Marianne Majerus Garden Images:
Andrew Lawson (cr). 99 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Lynda
Baguley, Angela Bell & Robert Walker, Let Knowledge Grow,
RHS Tatton Park 2009. 100-101 GAP Photos: Elke Borkowski.
443
444 PICTURE CREDITS
>>
102-103 Marianne Majerus Garden Images: Andrew Lawson/
Bourton House, Glos.. 104 Getty Images: GAP Photos (b).
112 Alamy Images: John Glover (tr). 125 GAP Photos: Friedrich
Strauss. 127 GAP Photos: Friedrich Strauss (t). 128 GAP Photos:
Jerry Harpur, Design Richard Hartlage (cl). 128-129 GAP Photos:
Jerry Harpur, Design Richard Hartlage. 129 Getty Images:
Dave Zubraski (br). 135 Dorling Kindersley: Design: St John
the Divine Church of England Primary School, I Promise, RHS
Hampton Court 2009 (br). Getty Images: Mark Bolton (bc).
137 Dorling Kindersley: D’Arcy & Everest (b). 140 GAP Photos:
FhF Greenmedia (br). 142 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Knoll
Gardens (tr); Design: Carole Dixon, London Gardens Society, RHS
Hampton Court 2009 (br). Photolibrary: J S Sira (l). 143 Getty
Images: Jason Lowe (cr). 144-145 Getty Images: GAP Photos.
146 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Lloyd Christie. 148-149 GAP
Photos: Friedrich Strauss. 150 GAP Photos: Graham Strong.
154-155 Photolibrary: J S Sira; Design: Phillippa Probert,
Revolution Garden, RHS Tatton Park 2009; www.outerspaces.org.
uk. 158 Corbis: Gary Braasch (clb). 159 Getty Images: Pernilla
Bergdahl (br). 167 Getty Images: Tim Gainey (bl). 169 GAP
Photos: Friedrich Strauss (crb). Getty Images: GAP Photos (cra).
170-171 GAP Photos: Jerry Harpur/Design: Christopher BradleyHole for Gail Thoreson and Tim Macklem. 173 Dorling
Kindersley: Design: Yvonne Matthews, Catherine Parr Garden,
RHS Hampton Court 2009. 174-175 Marianne Majerus Garden
Images: Marianne Majerus/The Manor House, Stevington,
Bedfordshire/Kathy Brown. 177 GAP Photos: Elke Borkowski (tl);
Juliette Wade (cr). 182-183 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Niki
Palmer Garden Designs, Enchanting Escape, RHS Hampton
Court 2009. 184 Caroline Reed (cra). 186-187 GAP Photos:
Clive Nichols. 187 Dorling Kindersley: Steven Wooster (br).
189 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Ivan Hicks, Future Gardens;
www.futuregardens.org (t). 190 Photolibrary: Brigitte Thomas.
191 Getty Images: Christina Bollen (br); Nancy Nehring (crb).
193 Getty Images: Rob Whitworth (r). 197 Dorling Kindersley:
Design: Luciano Giubbilei, Laurent-Perrier Garden, RHS Chelsea
2009 (t). 200-201 GAP Photos: Jo Whitworth. 202 GAP Photos:
J S Sira (t). 206-207 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Nigel Boardman
& Stephen Gelly, Hope Begins at Home, RHS Hampton Court
2009. 208 Alamy Images: The Garden Picture Library. Dorling
Kindersley: Design: Mike Harvey & Arun Landscapes, The
Unwind Garden, RHS Hampton Court 2007 (cra). 209 Dorling
Kindersley: Design: Robert Myers, The Cancer Research Garden,
RHS Chelsea 2008 (t). 212 Getty Images: Richard Bloom (t).
213 Photolibrary: Rex Butcher (crb). 220-221 Dorling Kindersley:
Design: Fran Coulter; frances.coulter@btinternet.com.
226 Caroline Reed (cra). 227 The Garden Collection: Jonathan
Buckley – Design Judy Pearce (t). 229 Getty Images: Howard
Rice (bl). 233 Getty Images: GAP Photos (br). 235 Getty Images:
Maddie Thornhill (tr); Mark Turner (br). 238 GAP Photos: S & O.
239 GAP Photos: Howard Rice (tr); Richard Bloom (clb). Getty
Images: Jonathan Buckley (cla). 241 Getty Images: GAP Photos
(cr) (fcr). Marianne Majerus Garden Images: Marianne Majerus
(br). 242 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Graham Bodle, A Shared
Space, RHS Tatton Park 2009 (b); Richard Bloom (tr). 243 Getty
Images: Adrian Bloom (clb); DEA/RANDOM (ca). 244-245 GAP
Photos: Adrian Bloom. 246-247 Photolibrary: Kate Gadsby.
250 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Hugh Thomas Gardens and
Landscapes, The Dark Horse Venture Garden, RHS Tatton Park
2009; www.hughthomas.co.uk. 253 The Garden Collection:
Torie Chugg – Design: John Marshall - RHS Hampton Court 2008
(cra). 254 Photolibrary: Gary K Smith. 256 Getty Images: Will
Heap (bl). 257 Getty Images: Pernilla Bergdahl (cr); Keith
Burdett (b); Clinton Friedman (t). 258 GAP Photos: Friedrich
Strauss (cr). harrodhorticultural.com: (br). 264 GAP Photos:
Howard Rice (t). 270 Getty Images: Christina Bollen (t).
272 The Garden Collection: Andrew Lawson (r). 275 Getty
Images: FhF Greenmedia (cra). 279 GAP Photos: Jonathan
Buckley (br). 286 Getty Images: Will Heap (cra). 287 Getty
Images: Foodcollection RF (bc) (cb); Michael Grimm (tl); Gregor
Schuster (tr). 289 Alamy Images: Rob Walls (tr). 290 Brian T.
North: (l) (r). 291 Brian T. North: (tl) (cl) (tr). 294 Getty Images:
Richard Bloom (br). www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk: (t). 295 Alamy
Images: Lou-Foto (tr). Getty Images: Influx Productions (cra).
www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk: (bl) (crb). 297 GAP Photos: Paul
Debois (tl). 298 GAP Photos: Friedrich Strauss (br). Getty
Images: Daan Kloeg (cl). 299 Getty Images: Gary Holscher (bl).
Marianne Majerus Garden Images: Andrew Lawson (t).
301 Caroline Reed (clb) (cb) (crb). 304-305 Photolibrary: Nilsson
Steven. 305 Getty Images: Clive Nichols (ca); DEA/C.DANI-I.
JESKE (cb); Tim Hawley (crb); Linda Lewis (cra). 306 Getty
Images: Pernilla Bergdahl (bl); Angela Wyant (br). Photolibrary:
Francois De Heel (t). 317 GAP Photos: Rob Whitworth (c). The
Garden Collection: Derek St Romaine (tr). 320 Getty Images:
Jan Tove Johansson (bl); Susan Seubert (cr). 321 Getty Images:
Christina Bollen (tr); Stefano Stefani (cl). 322-323 Marianne
Majerus Garden Images: Marianne Majerus/Woodhouse Natural
Pools. 328-329 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Brett Clarbour (ct).
333 Dorling Kindersley: Courtesy of the Royal Botanic Gardens,
Kew (l). 334 Clive Nichols: Fran Forster (crb). 340-341 Harpur
<<
Garden Library: Jerry Harpur, Design: Ian & Morag Hughes.
342 GAP Photos: Friedrich Strauss (l). 343 GAP Photos: Marg
Cousens (cr). 344 Marianne Majerus Garden Images: Marianne
Majerus/Susanne Blair (t). 348 Getty Images: Christina Bollen.
350-351 Marianne Majerus Garden Images: Yvonne Inne &
Olivia Harrison/From Life to Life: A garden for George, Chelsea
Flower Show 2008. 352 Getty Images: Pernilla Bergdahl (l).
356-357 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Ness Botanic Gardens,
A Garden For Bees, RHS Tatton Park 2008. 363 Getty Images:
Richard Bloom (cl). 364-365 GAP Photos: Flora Press. 367 Getty
Images: Clive Nichols (ca); Polina Plotnikova (cb) (crb). 372 Getty
Images: Evan Sklar (tr). 373 Getty Images: Mark Bolton (cr);
Kelly Kalhoefer (br); Martin Page (l). 378 Getty Images: Mark
Bolton (r). Photolibrary: James Guilliam (l). 379 Getty Images:
GAP Photos (br); Rice/Buckland (cr). 381 GAP Photos: (crb);
Visions (cra) (cb). 383 Alamy Images: Glenn Harper (cr).
384 GAP Photos: Friedrich Strauss. 385 Getty Images: Lee
Avison (t). 387 Getty Images: De Agostini (B. gibbum); DEA/C.
DANI (P. bifurcatum). 391 Getty Images: De Agostini (cra) (br).
392-393 Marianne Majerus Garden Images: Marianne Majerus.
393 GAP Photos: Jonathan Need (br); S & O (crb); J S Sira (cb).
Photolibrary: John W Warden (bc). 394 Caroline Reed (l).
396 Getty Images: DEA/C.DANI (br). 399 Alamy Images: John
Glover (cra). GAP Photos: John Glover (cr); Friedrich Strauss (br).
400-401 Getty Images: Richard Bloom. 405 Getty Images:
Hugh Palmer (pebbles). 408 Getty Images: Clive Nichols (t).
409 Getty Images: Nicola Browne (cra). 422 Getty Images:
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Nigel Cattlin (cla). 424 Dorling Kindersley: Design: Martin
Walker, The HESCO Garden, RHS Chelsea 2009 (cra). Getty
Images: Mark Turner (cb). 425 Getty Images: Ben Hall (clb); Dirk
Heuer – www.dheuer.net (cr); Elliott Neep (crb); ZenShui/Odilon
Dimier (cb). 426 Getty Images: Steve Hopkin (ca). 427 Getty
Images: FhF Greenmedia (br) (tr); Charles Krebs (tc). 429 GAP
Photos: Andrea Jones (fcla). Getty Images: Nigel Cattlin (cla) (tr);
National Geographic (br). 432 Alamy Images: Dr. Ian B Oldham
(fcla). Getty Images: Nigel Cattlin (clb) (fclb). 433 Getty Images:
Nigel Cattlin (fcra) (ftr); Christopher Fairweather (bl/sooty mould);
Mark Turner (cra). Royal Horticultural Society, Wisley: (ftl)
All other images © Dorling Kindersley
For further information see: www.dkimages.com
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank:
Andrew Halstead and Beatrice Henricot from RHS Wisley Gardens
for their help with the pest and disease sections.
Index: Jane Coulter
Proofreading: Monica Byles
Styling assistance: Alison Shackleton
445
446 SUPPLIERS
>>
Suppliers
Whether you are a beginning gardener with modest dreams or an enthusiastic expert but with little time
or gardening space, you can find most of the materials you need through the resources listed below.
BULB SUPPLIERS
GARDEN TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
ORGANIC PEST CONTROL
American Meadows
(877) 309-7333
www.americanmeadows.com
223 Avenue D, Ste. 30
Williston, VT 05495
Wide range of both autumn- and
spring-planted bulbs, in addition to
wildflower seeds.
Lee Valley Tools
www.leevalley.com
US:
(800) 871-8158
Lee Valley Tools Ltd.
P.O. Box 1780
Ogdensburg, NY 13669
Canada:
(800) 267-8767
P.O. Box 6295, Station J
Ottawa, ON K2A 1T4
Gardening and other tools.
Gardener’s Supply Company
www.gardeners.com
Online retailer of pest control and other
supplies; online advice.
White Flower Farm
(800) 503-9624
www.whiteflowerfarm.com
P.O. Box 50, Route 63
Litchfield, CT 06759
Wide variety of bulbs as well
as perennials.
Spring Hill Nurseries
(513) 354-1509
www.springhillnursery.com
Customer Service
110 West Elm Street
Tipp City, OH 45371
Exclusively online vendor of a wide
variety of bulbs, as well as ground
covers and sun- and shade-loving
perennials.
Veseys
(800) 363-7333
www.veseys.com
US:
P.O. Box 9000
Calais, ME 04619
Canada:
P.O. Box 9000
Charlottetown, PEI C1A 8K6
Online seed and starter plant retailer.
Gardening tools and equipment.
Ships to Canada and US.
LANDSCAPE MATERIALS
FENCING & WALLS
Gardener’s Supply Company
www.gardeners.com
Online vendor of garden fences and
walls as well as gardening tools,
composting bins, pest control, and
other supplies; online advice.
The Landscape Shop
www.thelandscapeshop.com
Online retailer of garden design
structures, including arbors, decking,
and paving.
USA Landscape Materials
www.usalandscapematerials.com
Online retailer of landscaping materials,
rockery, gardening, and topsoil.
Clean Air Gardening
(214) 819-9500
www.cleanairgardening.com
2266 Monitor Street
Dallas, TX 75207
Organic forms of pest control; fences,
arbors, tools, and other supplies;
pond supplies.
POTS & CONTAINERS
Hayneedle, Inc.
(888) 880-4884/(866) 579-5183
www.simplyplanters.com
12720 I Street, Suite 200
Omaha NE 68137
Hundreds of indoor and outdoor
containers.
Plant Containers
(866) 342-3333
www.plantcontainers.com
Pots of every size, shape, and material.
PLANT AND SEED SUPPLIERS
Note: Customs regulations generally
prohibit shipment of live plants,
including bulbs and potatoes, across the
US–Canada border, but seeds can be
sent in either direction. Check for current
regulations with the US and Canadian
Departments of Agriculture.
<<
Baker Creek Heirloom Seed
(417) 924-8917
www.RareSeeds.com
2278 Baker Creek Road
Mansfield, MO 65704
Large selection of heirloom vegetable
and herb seeds.
Burpee
(800) 333-5808
www.burpee.com
300 Park Avenue
Warminster, PA 18974
Vegetable and flower seeds.
Cottage Gardener Heirloom Seed
(905) 786-2388
www.cottagegardener.com
4199 Gillmore Road, RR#1
Newtonville, ON L0A 1J0
Heirloom seeds and plants, particularly
certified organic seeds of vegetables
and herbs. More than 500 varieties
of rare or endangered, openpollinated seeds.
Gurney’s Seed & Nursery Co.
(513) 354-1491
www.gurneys.com
P.O. Box 4178
Greendale, IN 47025
Vegetable, fruit, herb, and flower seeds
and plants.
Henry Field’s® Seed and Nursery
(513) 354-1494
www.henryfields.com
P.O. Box 397
Aurora, IN 47001
Wide supply of vegetable seeds and
plants, as well as trees and gardening
tools and supplies.
Johnny’s Selected Seeds
(877) 564-6697
www.johnnyseeds.com
955 Benton Avenue
Winslow, ME 04901
Vegetable and flower seeds, including
heirloom varieties and organic seeds.
Organica Seed Co.
(413) 599-0264
www.organicaseedco.com
P.O. Box 611
Wilbraham, MA 01095
Vegetable and herb seeds, both
heirloom and open-pollinated, and
some fruit, coffee, and tea.
Park Seed Company
(800) 213-0076
www.parkseed.com
1 Parkton Avenue
Greenwood, SC 29647
Vegetable, herb, and flower seeds.
Sand Hill Preservation Center
www.sandhillpreservation.com
1878 230th Street
Calamus, IA 52729
Heirloom seeds and plants.
Seeds of Diversity
(866) 509-7333
www.seeds.ca
P.O. Box 36, Stn Q
Toronto ON M4T 2L7
Website listing Canadian and US seed
companies selling rare, heritage, and
organic seeds. Information on how to
harvest and save seeds.
Stokes Seeds
(800) 396-9238
www.stokeseeds.com
US:
P.O. Box 548
Buffalo, NY 14240
Canada:
P.O. Box 10
Thorold, ON L2V 5E9
Offers a variety of flower, vegetable and
herb seeds. Ships to US and Canada.
Streambank Gardens
www.streambankgardens.com
22481 Burton Road
Milton, DE 19968
Vegetable and herb plants.
SUPPLIERS
Territorial Seed Company
(800) 626-0866
www.territorial-seed.com
P.O. Box 158
Cottage Grove, OR 97424
Unusal and heirloom fruit and vegetable
seeds and plants.
Underwood Gardens
www.underwoodgradens.com 1414
Zimmerman Road
Woodstock, IL 60098
Wide range of heirloom, rare, and
open-pollinated vegetable seeds.
Veseys
(800) 363-7333
www.veseys.com
US:
P.O. Box 9000
Calais, ME 04619
Canada:
P.O. Box 9000
Charlottetown, PEI C1A 8K6
Online seed and starter plant retailer.
Has certified organic products as well as
heirloom varieties; gardening tools and
equipment. Ships to Canada and US.
TREE & BUSH SUPPLIERS
Note: Customs regulations generally
prohibit shipment of live plants,
including bulbs and potatoes, across the
US–Canada border, but seeds can be
sent in either direction. Check for current
regulations with the US and Canadian
Departments of Agriculture.
Forestfarm
(541) 846-7269
www.forestfarm.com
990 Tetherow Road
Williams, OR 97544
Large range of plants, including fruits
and berries, and ornamental trees
and shrubs.
447
448 SUPPLIERS
>>
Henry Field’s® Seed and Nursery
(513) 354-1494
www.henryfields.com
P.O. Box 397
Aurora, IN 47001
Wide supply of berries, fruit and nut
trees, and gardening supplies.
St. Lawrence Nurseries
(315) 265-6739
www.sln.potsdam.ny.us
325 State Highway 345
Potsdam, NY 13676
Hardy fruit and nut trees for
northern gardens.
Siloam Orchards
(905) 852-9418
www.siloamorchards.com
7300 3rd Concession
Uxbridge, ON L9P 1R1
Heritage, disease-resistant fruit trees
and bushes.
WATER GARDENING
Clean Air Gardening
(214) 819-9500
www.cleanairgardening.com
2266 Monitor Street
Dallas, TX 75207
Tools and supplies for water gardening.
Lilypons Water Gardens
(800) 999-5459
www.lilypons.com
6800 Lily Pons Road
Adamstown, Maryland 21710
Tools and supplies, plants, and animals
for water gardening.
Pondliner
(866) 766-3548
www.pondliner.com
7901 North Kickapoo
Shawnee, OK 74804
Wide variety of water garden tools and
supplies, as well as goldfish.
The Tasteful Garden
www.tastefulgarden.com
973 County Road 8
Chulafinnee, Heflin, AL 36264
Open-pollinated varieties of fruit shrubs
and trees, particularly citrus.
The Water Garden
(423) 870 2838 for information
(866) 948-1479 for sales
www.watergarden.org
5212 Austin Road
Hixson, TN 37343
Water plants and all other supplies
needed for a successful water garden.
WILDLIFE GARDENING
National Wildlife Federation
Garden for Wildlife
www.nwf.org/gardenforwildlife
(800) 822-9919
11100 Wildlife Center Drive
Reston, VA 20190-5362
Advice on growing wildlife-friendly
plants; bird feeders and houses.
Wildlife Gardening Adventures
(301) 304-0357
www.gardeningadventures.com
123 Challedon Drive
Walkersville, MD 21793
Advice on growing wildlife-friendly
plants and gardens.
Designers’ details
The following designers and landscape architects have kindly helped us with planting and design plans.
Laurie Chetwood and Patrick Collins
020 7490 2400
chetwoods.com
Annie Guilfoyle
01730 812943
annieguilfoyle.com
Fran Coulter
01582 794019
frances.coulter@btinternet.com
Jeff Hewitt
0208 547 2452
hewittlandscapes.co.uk
Cubed3
Alan Burns 07921 860092
Philip Dugdale 0770 216 2317
Phillippa Probert
07734 157976
outerspaces.org.uk
Adam Frost
01780 762748
adamfrost.co.uk
Hugh Thomas Gardens & Landscapes
01625 531513
hughthomas.co.uk