Islands are renowned for producing unique species, creatures that have evolved in isolation to become one-of-a-kind entities, found nowhere else in the world. The Galapagos Islands have their finches, Hawaii has its honeycreepers, and the Republic of Seychelles is no exception, with 12 endemic bird species on the granitic islands.
These 12 endemic birds are a diverse collection, including a bird of prey, an owl, a pigeon and a warbler. Some of these species have been pushed to the edge of extinction, even to the point where they were believed to be lost, but successful conservation work has pulled them back from the brink, and their populations are steadily growing.
Cousin Island Special Reserve, my base in the Seychelles, was established to protect one of these struggling species, the Seychelles brush warbler. The island has since served as a sanctuary for several of the other endemics, and now has five of the 12 endemic bird species breeding onsite. To find the others, visits to the neighbouring islands of Mahe, Praslin and La Digue are necessary. I made it my mission to track down all of them.
Seychelles Sunbird (Cinnyris dussumieri)
The first endemic species I encountered, seen at the Roche Caiman reserve on Mahe. Later seen regularly on Cousin, Praslin and La Digue. This species is widespread throughout the granitics, where it frequents gardens and woodland. It is a highly active species, flitting constantly between food plants in a manner reminiscent of a hummingbird. Females are a rather plain brown, but breeding males have an iridescent blue throat and orange or yellow ‘armpits’.
Seychelles Fody (Foudia sechellarum)
My second endemic was the Seychelles fody, seen on my first day on Cousin Island, one of only five islands on which it is resident. On the larger islands it has been replaced by the Madagascar fody, a Madagascar endemic whose origins in the Seychelles are a matter of discussion. The Seychelles fody is dull, dumpy but very endearing, hanging out in tight-knit social groups. One such group has claimed the Cousin volunteer house as its territory, and considers any food in the house its property by right!
Seychelles Magpie Robin (Copsychus sechellarum)
Imagine a robin crossed with a magpie and you get this attractive endemic, my third for the trip and a serious contender for my favourite Seychelles bird. Only a few years ago, the magpie robin was Critically Endangered – in 1965, there were only 12-15 birds remaining, all on the island of Fregate. An intense conservation effort has seen the population increase to over 120 mature individuals, spread across five islands. The positive population change has resulted in the classification shifting from Critically Endangered to Endangered, and signs are good for the future of the magpie robin. The individuals on Cousin would often follow you around, foraging in the disturbed leaf litter you leave in your wake.
Seychelles Brush Warbler (Acrocephalus sechellensis)
Endemic number four was the most unobtrusive so far, being a plain brown warbler with a penchant for woodland. It was also the species that earned Cousin the status of Special Reserve, as human pressure had wiped out this species on every other island, leaving Cousin with a tiny population of fewer than 30 individuals – the last in the world. Once the island became a nature reserve, the population grew and birds were translocated to Aride, Cousine and Denis. The latest estimate places the total population at around 1700 mature individuals, giving it a conservation status of Vulnerable.
Seychelles Blue Pigeon (Alectroenas pulcherrima)
Next came the blue pigeon, a large, sturdy bird found throughout most of the granitic islands. I found my first one on Cousin, collecting nesting material, but saw many more on my visits to the other islands.
Seychelles Swiftlet (Aerodramus elaphrus)
I first caught sight of this tiny swift above Grand Anse, Praslin, on one of my brief food shopping excursions from Cousin. I saw a great many more on my visit to the Vallee de Mai national park, hawking insects high above the canopy as I watched on from the viewpoint. They were also seen regularly on La Digue and Mahe.
Seychelles Bulbul (Hypsipetes crassirostris)
This chunky olive-brown endemic put in a good show at the viewpoint of the Vallee de Mai reserve, and was also seen widely throughout Mahe and La Digue. They were incredibly vocal, moving through the trees in noisy family groups.
Seychelles Black Parrot (Coracopsis barklyi)
At first this bird proved highly elusive, and I was growing seriously concerned that I might not find one. I started my search at its breeding stronghold, the Vallee de Mai. I heard several parrots calling, but couldn’t locate any in the dense canopy high above. Fortunately, once at the viewpoint, I saw at least four individuals flying across the valley. Over the next few days I saw them regularly over the Grand Anse area.
Seychelles Paradise Flycatcher (Terpsiphone corvina)
I had to travel to La Digue to find this unmistakeable endemic, where I encountered several males and females in the Veuve reserve. The male is stunning, with a spectacularly long tail and a deep purple sheen to its plumage, but the female is arguably as attractive, with a black head, white underparts and chestnut upperparts. Both sexes were actively flycatching, with plenty of mosquitoes to choose from!
Seychelles Kestrel (Falco araeus)
This tiny falcon was a surprise find, as I had no idea they occurred on La Digue! I’d just visited Belle View juice bar, enjoying a drink and the spectacular view at this mountaintop cafe, and was making my way back down when I spotted one perched in a tree. I later saw one roosting in the Morne Seychellois National Park on Mahe, and another that visited our Beau Vallon hotel grounds every evening (Lemongrass Lodge).
Seychelles Grey White-eye (Zosterops modestus)
The last two were always going to be the hardest. The white-eye is endemic only to Mahe and the nearby island of Conception, though it has been translocated to a few others. Mahe is the most accessible island, but holds only an estimated 60 individuals, which have developed a taste for people’s private gardens. To find this and the final species, I enlisted the help of local conservationist and guide, Perley Constance.
Seychelles Scops Owl (Otus insularis)
This was it, the final bird. 11 down, one to go. Saving the hardest till last. In this case, the hardest was a small, brown owl restricted to the mountains of Mahe, with strictly nocturnal habits. Once again, the services of Perley Constance were invaluable, and after several hours his patience and persistence paid off. We thought we’d have to settle for a heard only record, with a vocal but very well-hidden owl refusing to appear. Fortunately, one popped up on a roadside branch the very second we were preparing to leave! Views were good, but I had to visit the Mahe Natural History Museum to catch one on camera.
Wildlife Tom 