Raked Leaves Improve Garden Soil

Don’t rake and send fallen leaves to urban landfills. In a recent poll, nearly one-third of weekly disposable materials are composed of yard waste, newspapers, and food waste. Many of your neighbors are sending bags of “nutrient gold” to landfills. Improve your gardening skills and save money.

“Organic Gold” – pile of raked leaves

Adding fallen leaves back into the garden is one of the most ecofriendly solutions that gardeners can adopt. Fallen leaves are free mulch. They’re gathered by raking, blowing, or a lawnmower with a bag attachment. A mower with a bag shreds the leaves – eventually creating a uniform leaf mold (mulch). The final product also creates a tidier look in your garden.

Put shredded leaves around the base of trees and shrubs, pile them up several inches over annual flowers or vegetable beds. A loose layer of shredded leaves can be about 3 to 5 inches thick that aids in controlling weeds. Alternatively, if you prefer the uniform darken look of store-bought mulches, start with free freshly fallen leaves as a base layer, and add a topping of purchased mulch. Over winter the fallen leaves and mulch break down and supply nutrients to the soil.

Get ahead of spring mulching chores by adding 2-3 additional inches of chopped leaves each season. October thru December is the interval when most deciduous and evergreen trees lose their leaves. Some oak and beech trees wait until late winter to lose theirs, giving rise to another wave of free mulch creation.

Mulch (composed yard waste) available at Local Garden Center

Fall leaf collecting and adding them to your compost pile greatly increases the quantity of ready for use soil conditioner in the spring. This will reduce gardening costs (think less fertilizer and lime) and improve the health of your garden plants. Oak leaves and pine needles tend to create an acidic mulch which is ideal around acid-loving azaleas, rhododendrons, mountain laurels, gardenias, hollies, to list a few.

Leaf compost provides all the nutrients that winter/early spring wildflowers such as trilliums, Virginia bluebells, winter flowering aconites, snowdrops, hardy cyclamens, and so many others need.

Empress Tree (Paulownia)

Empress tree (Paulownia tomentosa) is a fast-growing shade tree, in some years adding 4-5 feet of new growth, eventually to reach heights of 40-50 feet and width of 20-30 feet in less than 20 years. 

Paulownia Planting at Longwood Gardens in Kennett Square, PA

In the first 3-4 years, juvenile trees develop enormous size leaves. Once trees start producing flowers (adult stage), leaves are alot smaller, although still bigger that most oaks or maples. Some gardeners create the tropical foliage appearance by cutting back young trees every 1-3 years to maintain enormous sized leaves. By doing so, they avoid flower formation which results in seeds and lots more sapling trees in the neighborhood. 

Showy upright clusters of lavender flowers measure 14 or more inches across and are beautiful, although most are hidden within the bulky spring foliage. The large, velvety looking leaves resemble catalpa tree leaves.

Seed capsules in Fall

Individual 1.5-2 inch long tube-like blooms are vanilla scented and edible. Woody brown seed capsules follow in the fall; the capsules split open to reveal winged seeds.

Paulownias are not recommended for landscape planting as they are considered short-living weedy trees. They survive in a range of soils including low fertility and high acidity sites, and either in partial to full sun. As a shade tree, it forms a wide canopy of dense shade, creating too much competition for most ground covers to survive. Paulownia is resistant to most urban air pollutants.

Insects, Diseases, and Other Plant Problems:  Frost damage to early spring flower buds is possible.  Plant experts rate paulownia trees as weedy, messy, weak wood and invasive species. Seed heads form in summer and the ripened seed fall in late October. According to University of Tennessee forestry experts: “some 90% of paulownia seeds are not viable, yet many states list the tree as invasive”.

In Asia, paulownia wood is manufactured into paper, veneer, hand-carvings, clogs, musical instruments, furniture, rice pots, water pails, bowls, and spoons. Some U.S. growers export the wood to Asia. It has also some medicinal uses in Asia.

Prepare For Storm Damage

Wind damaged tree removed

A snow/ ice storm is both a beautiful and horrific scene in a landscape. Costly tree/shrub breakage, downed power lines, and subsequent utility shutoffs may be staggering results. Don’t feel powerless! Prepare and take action.  During the storm, do nothing / “hands off”. Working near an active electrical line is deadly.

After the storm you should immediately assess the landscape damage. Contact your insurance agent and hire an ISA* certified professional arborist to fit your property into his/her schedule. After a storm, arborists are likely much too busy with emergency callers.

Inspect your trees BEFORE storms are predicted. First on your list should be those large trees not pruned in many years. Old trees are likely to shed diseased, pest ridden, and structurally weak limbs. Notorously weak wooded deciduous trees are silver maple (Acer saccharinum), sycamore or planetree (Platanus spp.), Bradford pear (Pyrus calleryana), poplars (Populus spp.), and willows (Salix spp.). They generally drop small twigs to large branches all the time. Large evergreens like white pine (Pinus strobus), Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora) and leyland cypress (Cupressocyparis x leylandii) frequently loses branches and twigs during high winds and ice buildup.

Dead decaying branch

Ironically, the trees suffering the worse damage are those topped by “Landscape Pros”, neighbors, and utility companies. The re-growths on topped trees are very weak and snap off when the snow and ice loads reach a critical mass. Properly pruned trees ride out most ice storms. Take care of your trees and trees will continue to beautify and cool.

2020 Evaluation of Russian Sages By CBG

Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)

Russian sage (Perovskia spp.) is a popular garden and landscape plant valued for its lavender-blue flowers and long bloom period. Leaves are silvery green leaves. Long cultivated as an herbaceous perennial, Russian sage is technically a subshrub, a plant with a woody base that produces herbaceous stems. Perovskia spp. has recently renamed Salvia yangii and is a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae). Leaves and stems are pungently aromatic when crushed. Despite of its common name, Russian sage is not native to Russia, instead native to southwestern and central Asia.

Chicago Botanic Garden (CBG) (USDA Hardiness Zone 5b, AHS Plant Heat-Zone 5) recently completed an eight-year comparative trial of Russian sages in October 2020. Five cultivars earned five-star excellent ratings for their superior floral displays and consistently strong habits: Blue Spritzer, ‘Blue Jean Baby’, ‘Blue Steel’, ‘Little Lace’, and ‘Denim ‘n Lace’.

Russian sages are prized for their fuzzy lavender-blue flowers and silvery-filigreed foliage on upright, sturdy stems from mid-July to mid-October.
Most new introductions are chosen for their shorter, more compact habits. Bees and other insects were constant visitors during the long bloom period. No diseases or pests trouble this low maintenance perennial. Foliar chlorosis was a minor issue observed on all varieties, observed in high pH soils.

‘Blue Spritzer’ (‘Balperobritz’) has a bushy, vase-shaped habit—30 inches tall and 36 inches wide along with lighter lavender-blue flowers on airy spires and purple calyces. Blue Spritzer featured egg-shaped, silvery green leaves with entire margins; some leaves are occasionally serrated.

‘Blue Jean Baby’ is a compact bushy variety just under 30 inches tall and 32 inches wide. From early July to October, a profusion of lavender-blue and purple flowers; sage green, deeply dissected leaves.

‘Blue Steel’ is a seed cultivar that compared favorably to vegetative cultivars; 32 inches tall and 34 inches wide; airy dark lavender-blue flowers from July into mid-October; ovate, bluntly serrated green leaves with wavy margins and citrus-scented.

Little Lace (‘Novaperlac’) provided an impressive flower show from early July into early October; compact bushy plants—32 inches tall and 38 inches wide; deeply incised gray-green leaves and airy lavender-blue flowers.

‘Denim ’n Lace’ flaunt densely clustered, upright sky blue flower panicles from mid-July to mid-October; above high pollinator activity; 33 inches height and 48 inches width.

Read the entire research report on the Chicago Botanical Garden website.

Enormous Leaves On Sapling Trees

Some fast-growing trees like Royal Empress tree (Paulownia tomentosum) smoketree (Cotinus coggygria), and basswood linden (Tilia americana). There are lots more arboreal candidates. Keep the young tree saplings vegetative by practicing “Renewal Pruning”.

Young Paulownia tree (P. tomentosum)

To create an accent tree, single or multi-stemmed, wait until the plant has been in the ground for a few years, then begin to limb up the shrub. Select one to three stems that will become the dominant 1 or more trunks of your small tree and remove all other branches. Continue to shape this way until you arrive at the desired look. Again, snip off lower and interior branches that may develop.

Purple smoketree (Cotinus coggygria)

Several Cotinus cultivars produce colorful seasonal foliage such as: ‘Royal Purple’ has burgundy foliage that changes to brilliant red in fall; ‘Grace’ struts huge, maroon leaves and deep salmon pink fall color; ‘Golden Spirit’ (Ancot) has chartreuse leaves that turn yellow in autumn.

Basswood tree (Tilia americana)

If your goal is colorful foliage, cut the stems back garden in winter to 6 to 8 inches. The following spring enormous size leaves develop on vigorous growth from the ground. This is classified as hard pruning or renovation pruning and can be done every year. Just cutback last year’s woody shoots and start over.  Fertilize annually and irrigate during long summer dry periods.

Plants That Attract Birds To Your Property

Birds visit trees, shrubs, vines and perennials for five things: fruits (berries), sweet nectar (flowers), insects (particularly caterpillars), nuts and seeds, and shelter. This list is a compilation from the North Carolina and Tennessee chapters of the Audubon Society of ornamental plants common in the Southern Appalachian region.

Trees and Shrubs

Red maple (Acer rubrum)

Maples (Acer spp.)

Downy serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea)

River Birch (Betula nigra)

Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana)

Hickories (Carya spp.)

Dogwood (Cornus florida)

New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus)

Hawthorns (Crataegus spp.)

Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)

Ilex verticillata ‘Winter Red’

Virginia Sweetspire (Itea virginica)

Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana)

Spicebush (Lindera benzoin)

Sweetbay Magnolia (Magnolia virginiana)

Crabapples (Malus spp.)

Blackgum (Nyssa sylvatica)

Pines (Pinus spp.)

Wild Plum (Prunus americana)

Cherries (Prunus spp.)

Sweet Azalea (Rhododendron arborescens)  – at higher elevations

Pinxterflower (Rhododendron periclymenoides)

Oaks (Quercus spp.)

Wiilows (Salix spp.)

Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis)

Sassafras (Sassafras albidum)

Arrow-wood Viburnum (Viburnum dentatum)

Viburnum dentatum

Smooth Witherod (Viburnum nudum)

Woody Vines

Trumpet-creeper (Campsis radicans)

Cross-vine (Bignonia capreolata)

Coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens)

Perennials

Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis)

Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa)

Green and Gold (Chrysogonum virginianum)

Lobed Tickseed (Coreopsis auriculata)

Threadleaf Coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata)

‘Moonbeam’ Coreopsis verticillata

Star Tickseeds (Coreopsis pubescens var pubescens)

Joy Pye weed (Eutrochium maculatum)

Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis)

Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa)

Wild Quinine (Parthenium integrifolium)

Beardtongue (Penstemon)

Eastern Blue Phlox (Phlox divaricata)

Trailing Phlox (Phlox nivalis)

Moss Pink (Phlox subulata)

Creeping Phlox (Phlox stolonifera)

Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia fulgida var fulgida)

White Wood Aster (Eurybia divaricata)

Wreath Goldenrod (Solidago caesia)

Large flower Aster (Symphyotrichum grandiflorum)

Smooth Blue Aster (Symphyotrichum leave)

Eastern Aromatic Aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium)

Iron Weed (Vernonia lettermanni)

Ornamental Grasses

Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)

Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)

Yellow Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans)

Hawthorn Trees In The Landscape

The world of hawthorns (Crataegus spp.) includes several outstanding landscape trees that exhibit four-season ornamental interest: 1. spring flowering, 2. disease-free summer foliage, 3. variable fall leaf color, and 4. colorful fruits for wildlife in the fall and winter months. World-wide, hawthorns are native to temperate regions of North America, Europe, Asia, and North Africa, and belong to the Rose family (Rosaceae).

Trees develop a dense canopy of crossing branches with glossy lobed leaves. Most species produce thorns, although some thorn-less forms are available. Hawthorns grow in a wide variety of soils and growing conditions, and make good landscape trees or street tree. Some hawthorns are ideal for planting under power lines and are commonly utilized for tall hedging on large properties, particularly on European estates.

Spring bloom on Cockspur hawthorn (Crataegus crusgalli)  Note the 3″ long thorns!

Fragrant white or pink five-petaled flowers resemble apple blossoms. Hawthorn fruits, which look similar to rose hips, are red, orange, yellow, or black. The fruits are produced in fall and persist through winter. The edible fruits (called “pomes”) have various culinary and medicinal qualities, and attract various wildlife, including robins, waxwings, and other songbirds.

Most hawthorns, particularly those that produce thorns, are fairly deer resistant. Hawthorn trees are planted from spring into early fall in full sun and a well-drained soil with a moderately acidic soil between pH 6.0 to 7.5. Water newly planted trees through their first growing season until established.

Once established, Hawthorns are a good choice for curbside, public plantings, and some difficult landscape sites. Water regularly during the first year and during prolonged heat or dry spells. Overwatering and poorly drained soil will lead to foliar and root rot diseases.

Hawthorns are generally light constantfeeders. In early spring, apply a slow-release fertilizers like Osmocote™ or Nutricote™. Mulch with a layer of compost, pine needles, or bark chips to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

When pruning, use caution to avoid injury from thorns on prickly varieties. Wear heavy gloves, long sleeves, and goggles to protect your eyes. In late winter or early spring, remove damaged, diseased, or crossing branches and shape as needed. Cut back any suckers around the base of the trunk.

Good cultural practices should avoid or lessen disease and pest problems including fire blight, leaf spots, cedar hawthorn rust, apple scab, powdery mildew, and stem cankers. Potential pests include borers, caterpillars, lacebugs, gall mites, aphids, leafminers, and scale.

Three popular hawthorn species/varieties in U.S. landscapes:

‘Winter King’ hawthorn winter fruits

Washington hawthorn (C. phaenopyrum) is a southeastern U.S. native, 20-30 feet tall and 20-25 feet wide with an upright spreading habit. Leaves are glossy with pointed lobes and serrated edges. Clusters of pungent white flowers appear in late spring and bright red fruits appear in fall. Sharp thorns make this a good choice to prune into a security hedge (zones 3-9). Fall foliage is brilliant scarlet, orange, and purple.

‘Winter King’ green hawthorn (C. viridis) is a southeastern U.S. native that is a popular landscape and street tree that grows 20-30 feet tall and wide. Fragrant white flowers bloom profusely in mid spring, medium green foliage turns purple-red in fall. Showy red fruits form in fall and persist through most of winter. The silver-gray bark peels off as it ages, revealing its orange inner bark for added winter interest. Branches are nearly thornless, along with disease-resistant foliage. (Zones: 4-7).

Crusader® (syn. ‘Cruzam’) cockspur hawthorn (C. crus-galli var. inermis) is a thornless cultivar. The parent species bears 4 inch long thorns. Crusader is tough as nails, 15-30 feet tall and wide with wide spreading horizontal branching. White spring flowers, green summer foliage, red fruit, silvery bark; variable colored fall foliage of orange, scarlet and purple leaves. Large red fruits stand out against the tree’s spectacular fall foliage. Disease-resistant, very adaptable and tolerant of urban pollution, clay soil, and salt. (Zones:3-7).

Perennials With Great Autumn Leaf Color

Arkansas bluestar (Amsonia hubrichtii) fall color

In addition to foliage changes seen in landscape trees and shrubs, a select number of perennials contribute to the autumnal leaf colors. Here is a select list of popular perennials endeared for their autumnal foliage hues.

Arkansas bluestar (Amsonia hubrichtii) – stunning golden foliage beginning in late September.

Bloody cranesbill (Geranium sanguineum) – geranium ground cover with reddish purple foliage color in October; Geranium x ‘Rozanne’ foliage develops a bronze-red tint; G. macrorrhizum ‘Ingwersen’s Variety’ – mixed foliage turns an attractive red color in fall.

Jacob’s ladder (Polemonium  ‘Bressingham Purple’) turns royal purple foliage in spring and fall; summer foliage is vibrantly green.  

Ferns (selected ferns) – Autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora), Royal fern (Osmunda regalis); Sensitive fern (Onclea)

Selected forms of sedums (Sedum spp.) develop yellow and orange shades in fall. example: S.  rupestre ‘Angelina’

Bronze-leaf rodgersia (Rodgersia podophylla) takes on coppery red and yellows shades in the fall; annual fall color is highly variable.

Dwarf Variegated Solomon seal (Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’) is rarely recognized by gardeners.

Leadwort (Ceratastigma plumbaginoides) – low mounding groundcover awakens very late in spring. Deep green leaves develop splashes of red in fall. Blue, starry flowers bloom in late summer into fall.

Herbaceous Peony (Paenonia lactiflora) – fall color is iffy among peony varieties; some may turn rusty orange lasting a week or more.

Golden aralia (Aralia cordata ‘Sun King’) – golden foliage hangs on through October.

Ornamental grasses (Miscanthus sinensis); Japanese bloodgrass (Imperata cylindrica); pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergeri capillaris) or white M. capillaris ‘White Cloud’ inflorescences; foliage of assorted sedges (Carex spp).

Several forms of switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) – ‘Northwind’ (autumnal  yellow leaf blades), ‘Shenandoah’ (reddish tones in leaf blades), ‘Cheyenne Sky’ (dark maroon leaf tips)

Bellwort, merrybells (Uvularia perfoliata) – fall leaf color lasts 7-10 days.

Polygonatum odoratum ‘Virigatum’

Tips On Overwintering Outdoor Containers

Containers filled with shrubs and perennials, doesn’t necessarily ensure their winter survival. Without adequate cold protection plants may succumb to cold injury—turning them into dead annuals.    

Heath (Erica x darleyensis) enjoys cool winters (zones 6-8)

To over-winter perennials in containers, you need to know their root and shoot temperature hardiness. Often, plant hardiness ratings is listed on the label.

Roots and shoots of several landscape plants have different hardiness levels. For example, above ground potted landscape species such as hollies, azaleas, and boxwoods may be winter hardy at 5-10 °F, yet their roots are injured below 18-20 °F. Day to day air temps may fluctuate wildly and the plant crowns and roots are much more sensitive to temperature swings than their above ground branches.

Here are several helpful pointers to improve the survival of containerized plants during the winter months:

Taxus (yew) hedge may be injured by late fall pruning
  • Grow Two Zones Colder. When growing perennials in containers, select those that are rated two plant zones hardier than your own.
  • Transplant Into Larger containers. Large containers contain more soil and offer greater winter protection to roots than smaller pots can provide. Also, line pots with styrofoam insulation
  • Huddle for warmth. Group multiple containers tightly together and move them in a wind protective corner of the garden. In some climates, they may also be beneficial to cover them with loose leafy mulch to added temperature protection as well as fluctuation.
  • Dig Pots In. Container roots can be protected from cold if you trench pots into the ground. Dig a hole or pit in the ground and take advantage of the heat and insulation that the earth provides.
  • Bring Them Inside. Set the containers inside a shed or an unheated garage to protect temperamental perennials, such as elephant ears, cannas, crinums, blue mist shrub and butterfly bush (Buddleia x davidii) (USDA Zones 5–9).
  • Delay pruning back some tender shrubs in the fall. Buddleias, crape myrtles, and bluemist shrub (Caryopteris) are examples.
  • Late fall clipping of hedges, such as hollies, yews, boxwoods, or privets, may be injured if winter temps turn out to be unusually severe in your region.
Delay Pruning Buddleias Until Spring

Forms of Western Arborvitae

Thuja plicata ‘Whipcord’

Here is a partial listing of cultivars of Western arborvitae (Thuja plicata), as found in the U.S. nursery industry. Several are good choices for dwarf conifer collectors, in rock gardens, and in large containers. Winter hardiness of some cultivars is variable. Note: some are dwarf forms of ‘Green Giant’ arborvitae (Thuja standishii x plicata) which is a hybrid form.

‘Can-Can’ – semi-dwarf, dense, upright tree habit, 8 feet high and 5 feet wide in 10 years; dark green foliage with golden-white tips. (zones 6-9).

‘Excelsa’ – up to 35 feet tall with 20 feet spread; bright green fan-like foliage rated as fragrant. (zones 7-10).

‘Grune Kugel’ – ultra-dwarf slow growing dense mound 12 – 18 inches tall, 18 – 30 inches wide. (zones 5-8).

‘Hogan’ – medium-size columnar grower (40 feet x 20 feet) with dense narrow habit (sometimes mislabeled ‘Fastigiata’). (zones 5-7).

‘Junior Giant’ – about 40% to 50% the size of Thuja ‘Green Giant’ (about 20 to 25 feet tall and 10 feet wide). Branches seem to be held more horizontally. (zones 4-8/9). 

‘Pygmaea’ – irregular upright branching; 2-3 feet shrub in 10 years. dense, blue-green foliage, tips may turn bronze in winter. (zones 5-8).

Thuja plicata ‘Roger’s Aurea’

‘Rogers Aurea’ reaches 4 – 5 feet high and wide with an oval to globose growth habit; decidedly smaller compared to the standard ‘Aurea’ with a broad pyramidal habit; bright golden yellow foliage outwardly, greenish on inner wood. Needles turn gold/orange-ish/bronze color in winter (depending on severity). (zones 5-9).

‘Stoneham Gold’ – dwarf form to 7 feet tall, compact, upright habit; branch tips are golden-yellow. (zone 7).

‘Sunshine’ (also may be ‘Canadian Gold’) – 40 – 70 feet tall, with bright gold needles that reportedly turn off bronze in winter. (zones 5-9)

‘Virescens’– slightly narrower habit,  20-30 feet tall and 9-12 feet wide. Glossy, dark green foliage holds its green year round without winter bronzing.

‘Whipcord’ – shrubby, slow-growing, dwarf form with pendulous whipcord-like green foliage; 2-3 feet tall and wide in 10 years, ages to 4-5 feet; scale-like leaves may turn coppery-bronze in fall. (zones 5-9)

‘Zabrina’ – large tree form, 40 feet at maturity, with broad, pyramidal habit; variegated foliage, specially for its bands of green and golden-yellow. (zones 5-7).