Monkeying Around at the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary, Sabah Borneo

As we drove into eastern Sabah, the mountainous terrain changed to more gently undulating hills and the thick jungle evaporated to be replaced with palm oil trees for as far as the eye could see. It was disheartening for an international visitor to see the monotonous vista and absolute dominance of this industry, but the consequences have been far more devastating for the region’s wildlife.

Thankfully one palm oil corporate behemoth reserved a patch of their plantation to become a refuge for the local proboscis monkey inhabitants. Join me for a fascinating visit to the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary.

Coming after our stay in the jungle on the Kinabatangan River, I had a new-found fascination with proboscis monkeys. Up until that point, my focus and fervent anticipation revolved around meeting orangutans, and while my orangutans were not pushed off their pedestal, spotting proboscis monkeys in the wild had become just as entrancing.

The Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary was established when drought struck this part of Sabah in the year 2000 and the resident monkeys were forced to scavenge food from the palm oil plantation workers. Owners of the plantation, the Lee Brothers, realised that this was not sustainable if the proboscis monkeys were to have any sort of future and decided to reserve 500acres of land as a sanctuary as well as instituting a regular feeding programme for them. The animals are free to roam throughout this area and I guess are only limited by the inhospitable boundaries (no food sources at all) of the sea to the North and the plantation itself on every other side.

The contrast between plantation and jungle was stark for us humans too. Our tour bus took us from palm oil-lined highways, to smaller back roads, to narrow one-lane roads and the scenery did not vary one iota. It was only after we passed through the palm oil company’s boom gates and had driven a further 15 minutes, did we come to the Sanctuary itself and the landscape returned to the jungle as expected.

This place could be described as quite a low-key tourist attraction – an open parking area, a café and timber walkway leading off to one side. It is only when you follow the short, timber walkway do you start to get an inkling of what is waiting for you. There is also a little signage telling you how to remain safe in the Sanctuary, but I don’t think that prepared us for how close the monkeys actually were.

Our welcoming party comprised about 15 silver leaf langurs. Mothers and babies sat placidly on the hand rails, watching our arrival and no doubt, hoped for a snack. Young and cheeky langurs scampered over the tin roof sounding like a stampede of mini-elephants. They would then proceed to hang over the edge of the roof to see if their ruckus had drummed up any food. No joy for them!

One of our group had the small thrill of a langur reaching out to touch them gently on the arm, perhaps reminding the human that they were there and were open to receiving a snack. I’m not sure I would have liked such close contact. They are wild animals after all.

Standing on the raised viewing area, we could see a number of feeding platforms and timber decks leading off into the jungle. From a distance we could also see a couple proboscis monkeys sitting on a branch or a log, watching the world (or bugs and birds) go by.

At 1128am this changed dramatically! It seemed like the proboscis monkey switch had been flicked and a tide of monkeys flooded out of the jungle. They knew feeding time was 1130am on the dot.

Proboscis monkeys of every size and age swung and scampered through the trees, racing each other to get the best vantage point on the feeding platforms. They jostled and pushed, and the larger, dominant personalities frightened away the smaller animals, to the point that the young males were ostracised to a completely separate feeding platform. It would have been fascinating to understand their pecking order.

Being so close, I could easily see, and was equally fascinated by, their huge, blobby noses. I wonder at their purpose or function and why Mother Nature thought a great big nose would be a useful thing to evolve?

The whole experience was a photographer’s paradise. I kept telling myself to stop taking photos. I certainly had already taken enough to preserve the memory of this visit, but there was always another monkey that was doing something funny or interesting, or so cute I had to take just one more photo.

Eventually I put the camera away and stood watching their antics and interactions. I stopped counting at 60 proboscis monkeys and I’m sure there were many more leaping, swinging, feasting or fighting.

Every now and then a silver leaf langur would try to sneak a bite to eat from the platform, but the monkeys had no manners and were not good at sharing. A lone, brave squirrel also did its best to grab a snack.

As fast as the food was consumed, the proboscis monkeys drifted back into the protection and comfort of the jungle. A couple of hungry souls scavenged around for scraps and after a while, they too gave up the search, and it was time to get on with the rest of their monkey day back in the forest.

And actually, it was time for our lunch too. Time to get back on the bus and head into the metropolis of Sandakan.

Our visit to Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary was a fabulous experience and, Yes, it would be better if the proboscis monkeys could roam free throughout all of their homeland, but at least they have this small patch of Nature left to them, and to us to enjoy them.

Have you ever been monkeying around?

The Basics

What: It costs around AUD$25 for International visitors to enter the Sanctuary. There is also a AUD$4.00 fee for DSLR cameras.

Where: Mile 19, Sandakan Sps 3, Sandakan, Sabah.

When: The Sanctuary is open 830am-530pm every day. Feeding times at Platform A are 930am and 230pm, and Platform B are 1130am and 430pm

Why: To watch an amazing animal graze and cavort. It really makes you marvel at evolution and the creativity of Mother Nature.

How: I did not see any public transport servicing this destination, but it may be located nearby. Otherwise, you will need to arrange private transport or join a tour.

Who: Everyone of every age will be mesmerised by these animals. Other than a few signs, there was no guided tour or information shared, so you will just have to be content to stand and watch.

Related Posts: To see some proboscis monkeys in the wild, check out my stay in the jungle.

Related Blogs: Blogger, Travel With My Lens, is also a fan of the Sanctuary.

Read About it: Are you too fascinated by proboscis monkeys? Grab a copy of Gail Terp’s book simply called Proboscis Monkeys. Available from Fishpond.

We visited the Labuk Bay Proboscis Sanctuary in early March 2023.

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