Taming the "Hinoki" Cypress

Chamecyparis Obtusa "Nana Gracilis"

The Hinoki cyprees has long been a favourite of mine for bonsai culture. C. Obtusa is the easiest false cypress to keep alive. My first introduction to bonsai was with this species. Because of this tree's unique characteristics, it has taught me one of the hardest fundamentals to grasp in this passion; patience.


Many report great success in growing it, but unfortunately, it seems to be one of the most difficult to keep in proper bonsai form due to the whirling fan pattern of the foliage.

I believe this statement to be rather harsh, if the tree is left to its own device then yes. This is one of my favourite trees for many reasons. It lends itself well to bonsai culture and a coniferous silhouette can be easily achieved in a reasonable amount of time.

The major styling challenge for false cypress is the fatal combination of rapid growth, die-back from lack of light, and refusal to bud on old wood. If Chamaecyparis isn't pruned constantly, inside and lower branches will die and never grow back, making bonsai maintenence a headache. The tree is best shaped through constant pinching of new foliage - never use scissors to prune as foliage browns where cut. Hinoki cypress also tends to form awkward whorls of foliage if not properly pruned.

After reading that, who in their right mind would take up this challenge? Hopefully with this article I will be able to share my experience in growing and caring for the species and, in doing so remove the stigma surrounding this wonderful underutilized tree.

Selection
Although there are many cultivars, not all Chaemaecyparis Obtusa are suitable for bonsai culture, I will only discuss the ones I have had success and experience with. A more comprehensive list can be found at the end of this care sheet. In my opinion the best species to bonsai are the "nanas". This is a dwarf cultivar but lends itself well to pot culture. Although the growth rate is only 1 or 2 inches per year, when compared to 10-12 inches for the non-dwarf cultivars, this characteristic is highly desirable, and manageable.

I have raised the following species: Chamecyparis Obtusa "Templehoff", Chamecyparis Obtusa "Nana", Chamecyparis Obtusa "Gracilis", Chamecyparis Obtusa "Aurea", and Chamecyparis Obtusa "Nana Gracilis" and Chamecyparis Obtusa "Kosteri". The best and my favourite for bonsai is: Chamecyparis Obtusa "Nana Gracilis". It has the easiest foliage to tame, and this is what this article is all about.

As discussed, Hinokis will not back bud on old wood. Although they will bud on "green wood" as soon as the green turns to bark, then the show is over. What does this mean to you? Well it means that during plant selection you will need to be very critical.

The three things we look for in selecting suitable material is: trunk; branch placement; and nebari. Although nebari is an important criteria, I do not base my selection on this criteria alone. Hinokis take extremely well to ground layering, and will grow new roots in a growing season. The tree can be severed after two. This blog entry describes the process and results nicely.

The most important criteria after trunk diameter/movement etc... is, branch placement and foliage. The only way to get a branch where you want/need it, is to have it there. The only grafting method that has demonstrated success in varying degrees is "in arch grafting". So if it isn't there, it won't be in the future for all intent and purpose.

Hinokis do grow in a compact fashion so, a good selection of branches are readily available. One must be able to envision any given tree and be capable of taking this raw stock to the next level. Inner foliage is one of the most important criteria in tree selection when dealing with Hinokis. I would select a tree with good inner foliage characteristics in a heart beat over one that may have all the branches in the right place, or has excellent trunk movement, not that the latter two criteria are insignificant, but IMO inner foliage is essential to future possibilities, and should be protected at all costs.

The tree is home
You have selected a suitable candidate and it is now in your yard. Most feel the urge to take this stock and turn into a Bonsai in the first session, don't.

The first thing that needs doing is to bare root the tree (I use a garden hose and a chopstick) to gently comb out the roots and rid the tree of all the original old soil and place it in a good bonsai substrate. Allot of enthusiast do not endorse this practice, but many of the better learnt do, the reason is simple. You need to be able to control its watering and feeding regimen. Placing a tree in any container with a mixture of soils is a method that leads to disaster, if the old soil is not removed.

The rationale is as follows: The root ball is sitting in old soil; this soil is often a combination of soil and compaction of roots; this compaction is greater just below the trunk and surrounding roots; this compaction will only get worst over time; it is this compaction that will remain wet when the remainder of the pot is filled with a free draining soil; and the latter will in most instances lead to root rot and subsequently a dead tree.

As mentioned all my trees are bare rooted and re-potted in my substrate. A caveat, my substrate contains traces of Myke (for trees and shrubs) which is a Mycorhizae substitute that inoculates the pot. We have heard that this beneficial fungus is normally found with pines, many will inoculate other trees with this fungus. The downside, this only happens when you can collect it when re-potting a pine or other conifers where it is present. My alternative is a commercial product that is available at any time, more important, it works.

After the tree has been re-potted (the only root work I do is remove the tap root if still present), it is thoroughly watered and fed a dose of 10-52-10 at half strength. This is also available as "transplant fertilizer", of which you will pay a premium price for. I buy it by the tub because it is an integral part of my feeding regimen. This initial dose is followed up two weeks later with a dose at full strength. The tree during this period is placed in an area of dappled sunlight. Once the tree has shown signs of recuperation and is actively growing, it gets placed on a regular feed schedule, and out in full sun it goes.

I do not purchase trees out of season. I try to acquire new material before the end of June, for my climate. If I acquire material past this time line, it remains in the pot until the following spring. No work is being conducted on the tree until then, with the exception of removing branches I know I will not need, to allow light to the inner foliage.

So the tree has recovered from its trip into your backyard. During this time frame you have hopefully studied the tree and have a vision of where you wish to take it. All unnecessary branches are removed and the tree left to recover until the following year.

Wiring
Wiring the tree should never be attempted within three months of re-potting. The care sheet says so, and I had forgotten this information and subsequently lost my very first tree. I had done both at the same time is the past (in the spring), with great success. Unfortunately the winter of 06-07 was a funny winter and several Canadians lost many trees. So the combination of a funny winter along with re-potting and wiring at the same time, led to the tree's demise. Having learned this lesson, I will no longer carry out both at the same time anymore. I now wire all my Hinokis in the fall.

The rationale behind this is: the tree will be entering dormancy; its growth will be slow to non-existent; the wire can stay on the tree longer, giving it a chance to set; Hinokis are extremely flexible and require many applications before a certain branch has set permanently; and by wiring in the fall it does not interfere with spring re-potting.

Pruning

If Hinokis are left unattended for any length of time, foliage will naturally re-establish their normal growth patterns. As can be seen from this photograph, this type of foliage is not suitable for bonsai as it puts on an unkept appearance, and often the foliage mass is deemed too heavy for the tree's proportions. Appearances aside as the foliage grows from the centres, creating whorls, all foliage below in the shadows of the top layers receive insufficient light and will die off.


On the other hand the foliage on this tree does indeed show signs of maintenance. Although it is still somewhat crowded, it is manageable for a season or two.


The encircled area of this picture depicts what a foliage fan should look like after it has been thinned through pruning. Although pinching is a technique for many trees and will induce back budding, in my experience is is not necessary unless one wishes to redistribute the energy to lower branches, then yes terminal shoots are pinched back.

There are two different types of pruning: hard pruning (removal on branches); and maintenance pruning which is the removal of "branchlets". It is highly recommended to prune on alternate re-potting seasons. I am a firm believer in doing top work one year, and bottom work the following year.

Pruning can be carried out any time during the active growing season right up until mid-August. I recommend hard pruning during the main growth period (as the tree can repair itself more readily) whilst conducting maintenance pruning in early spring at the first signs of growth.

Maintenance pruning is conducted to thin out and tame the fan whorls. One needs to be fairly gentle as these fans are quite delicate. Because of the density of the fans, it is next to impossible to pinch out unwanted growth without damaging the fan/pad. For this I use a pair of good quality pointed scissors, not unlike the ones you use to clip nose hairs. It has been said that using scissors will brown the areas where cut. In my experience with Hinokis, this is not an issue, and it is far safer than trying to pinch. Furthermore, pinching normally refers to the foliage tips, in which case you would indeed pinch. The aforementioned pruning takes place at the base of "branchlets" and no ill effects will come from this practice. Take a look at a foliage whorl and you immediately see what I mean.

The approach
Pruning Hinokis is not much different than thinning out any other branch. What you aim for is alternate foliage pads along the branches. This may seem simple and in some ways it is, but it is anything but. Future styling consideration need to taken into account e.g where will a bend be? It is not practical to remove a fan in favour for another if the chosen one will be on the inside of a curve in a later design, which will cause the removal of two whorls. Remember foliage on Hinokis are at a premium. Didn't I say Hinokis would teach you wisdom and patience?

Because of Hinokis uniqueness (die back of internal foliage), foreshortening of the branches will need to/more likely to take place. The selected fans are gently cupped in the hand using the index and major finger to hold the fan whilst the thumb spreads out the fan. This gives you an indication of the space this fan will occupy after wiring in fall.


Each fan is then selectively pruned with scissors just like any other branch. Each fan is a series of miniature fans all growing from one another. In turn each one of these needs to be thinned out. It is not uncommon to spend 4-10 hours pruning a tree.


This picture depicts a more or less properly pruned tree, the yellow area gives a representation of what a fan should look like after maintenance pruning was carried out.

Active growth period
During this period the tips of the fans can be pinched out to redistribute the tree energy to selected areas. Hinokis like all apically dominant trees need the strong and medium areas constantly pinched back to promote growth in weaker areas.

During this time frame wired branches can be repositioned slightly. I rotate my trees weekly so they receive an even distribution of light.

Pruning versus Pinching
Is there a difference? Well yes there is. Constantly pinching Hinokis will soon render a branch without foliage. You might say how is this possible? Well we know Hinokis do not back bud on old wood. Therefore no new growth will take place or extend past the "pinch" so to speak. How is this possible you might ask again? Well you removed all "terminal" growth in favour of lateral growth. This in turn develops "poodle like" pads of foilage versus branches with foliage perse. Continued pinching results in tufts of foliage on the end of branches versus creating branches, which in turn come from "new foliage", in our case fan whorls. Below is an excerpt of an old discussion that took place.

Boon's approach is to treat the foliage areas more like the ramification of deciduous foliage areas. That is, the deliberate structuring of secondary and tertiary branches and twigs all the way out to the final leaf. Have you ever seen a well ramified Trident maple? They are breath taking. Even when in foliage you can see the entire structure of the foliage area. It seems an almost endless forking of tiny branches finishing in a flurry of minuscule leaves. In junipers you accomplish this not by pinching, but by deliberately selecting each green shoot using sharp fine shears, either keeping or removing the shoot by cutting it off at its base. No pinching except perhaps in the scaffolding stage where you are just selecting places for secondary branching, and browning isn't an issue because the tree isn't ready to show anyhow.

Now this may seem like a daunting task, and in fact it is. Jim (Jim Gremel) said they spent something like nineteen hours pruning three of his trees. You start at the primary branching and follow out to the secondary branching where you begin to encounter green shoots. Most of the time the small green shoots in the axils of the branches is removed to maintain the fork. As you get to green shoots and wood that has just lignified (browned), you begin the process, left-right-left-right- up, left-right-left-right-up, or whatever pattern works for you. This is repeated for every foliage of the tree. Rather than indiscriminate pinching that is mindless and leaves a cushion, you get a structure that you can see through that is light, delicate, and probably most important- maintainable. Foliage area extension can be controlled by simply pruning harder to head back to secondary branching and thus shortening the branch with almost no adverse consequences. Trees treated this way can be shown every year.


Chamaecyparis Obtusa "Kosteri"
Although it can be used for bonsai culture, I find the growth pattern too coarse and would defintely present a challenge, when compared to the "Nana Gracilis"


Chamaecyparis Obtusa "Aurea"
Although this specimen shows a coarse structure, it does possess the same attributes as the "Nana Gracilis". However, it is unique in its growth pattern as all new growth is a beautiful golden colour whilst old growth is a dark green. To many, varigation in bonsai is taboo and I support this, but this tree makes a fantastic addition to any landscape, where the tree is maintained using Japanese Gardening Techniques.

Caution!
Chamaecyparis Obtusa "Gracilis" is not "Nana Gracilis". The "Gracilis" will grow much larger than the "Nana" but more important is how the foliage grows on a "Gracilis" which is straight up and down when compare to the whorls of the "Nana". This is not a major draw back but needs to be considered as the majority of the branchlets will need to be wired in a horizontal plane. Furthermore, do not remove any foliage growing beneath the branchlets. Once it has been turned to a horizontal position, it now becomes a side. It goes without saying that any branch growing beneath a main branch is indeed removed.

TIP!
Hinokis benefit of a dose of Epson Salts every month or so, @ a rate of 1 tbs to one gallon of water. It turns the foliage a vibrant dark green and at times (dependent on cultivars) will bring out blueish hues.

Bibliography
Bonsai Clubs International Care sheet
Photos courtesy of Iseli Nurseries

Photographing Bonsai

Carl Bergstrom wrote an article some time ago on how to photograph bonsai and kusamono (accent plants). Although this article may be dated, it contains nonetheless some very good information. Carl goes into great detail on how one can achieve great photography, even with a P&S camera.



I was fortunate enough this year to receive an update to my old Fuji A201. Santa left a Fuji S700 under the tree for me to find. Digital cameras have come a long way. MY first Fuji was nearly double the price of this camera. As time goes by, DSLRs will further reduce in price and all should be able to afford one. This is great for folks who have a series of quality 35mm lenses. All one need to do is find a camera that the lenses will fit on.



Specifications and Review

Needless to say that the jump from a P&S (point and shoot) was a learning curve, never had owned a manual 35mm is the past. The user manual was all but useless. I found this site while surfing to be extremely useful. It went into the functionality of a camera in greater detail, and hence reducing the height of my learning curve.

In my present setup, I have come to find out that back lighting does not render great shots, regardless of aperture and shutter settings. My indoor photos take place in my den that has a daylight fluorescent overhead, which I supplement with two daylight pig tails at 60 watts each. My backdrop is royal blue velvet.Using "natural light" and flash suppression I am able to capture the depth and true colours of the trees. Using flash just washes the tree. Now what will happen when I take shots outdoors? I guess we will soon find out.

This camera was placed on Santa's list for 4 reasons, in order of importance: powered by AA batteries; had a view finder vice just an LED screen; had an optical zoom and was capable of taking shots in macro mode. I took a shot one night of a text that was laying open on my computer desk from 3 inches away. The shot would have gained me entrance into the CIA.

In closing as digital photography is getting better as time goes by, and gains in consumer popularity, the affordability of digital cameras will undoubtedly continue to improve.

Warren Hill Soil Experiment

This article was originally written back in May 2006, to document an experiment that I conducted using various substrates.

Background
A recent debate, which took place on several forums with regards to the continued use of “Turface” or any other calcinated clay or similar soil amendments with high Cation Exchange Capacities (CEC) in our substrate, would lock up needed nutrients, leaving an accumulation of unwanted salts, which in turn leads to the poor health and perhaps the eventual demise of our beloved trees.

Aim
In light of these posts, I have decided to conduct my own experiment, to satisfy my own curiosity and is not intended to debate “soil recipes” but rather discuss the merits or discredit some of Mr Hill’s fore drawn conclusions.

The subjects I have chosen for my experiment are: the Cotoneaster Horizontalis var. Rockspray. I have chosen this particular type of tree because it has demonstrated in the past they adapt well to my short growing season and climate here in Nova Scotia. The substrate I used was: my 30/70 mix (bark, turface & grit, 30/35/35), Turface and Chicken Grit (ground granite).

Discussion
At the centre of the debate was the reputation and teachings of renowned Bonsaiist Warren Hill. Mr Hill is a gifted and talented bonsai artist who has spent the better part of his life in the pursuit of better bonsai and better bonsai technique. He is a world famous, world-class teacher and educator on this subject who has earned that reputation and international regard by being able to actually do it. One look at any bonsai he has created will immediately make this clear. He worked for the US Department of Agriculture for close to 40 years. During his tenure he had access to the necessary equipment and materials he needed to derive his conclusions.

During his lectures, Mr Hill professes that 80% of our trees either die or never reach their full potential because of unwanted salts in our substrate. Warren’s recipe of choice is: Akadama or similar; Sphagnum Moss; and builders sand or grit. His claim is that Akadama has a lower CEC than the calcinated clays, and albeit water retentive Sphagnum Moss was relatively neutral with regards to initial salt content and the remaining ingredients mentioned nil. He further lectures against the use of any type of Chemical Fertilization and goes on to say that one should only use organic fertilizers, in particular, fish fertilizer. It should be also noted that Mr Hill lived a good portion of his life in Southern California, a place denoted for the high sodium content in the drinking water. What is unusual in my opinion is that in all his lectures he fails to mention the use of distilled water when faced with high sodium content of drinking water in individual locales. Albeit, void of any trace minerals and nutrients, one would think the benefits of using distilled water would outweigh the negatives “as professed” of using drinking water with high initial sodium content?

Another interesting tidbit of discussion took place on the Bonsai Site where: “Grouper52” an MD by profession, challenges Warren’s findings as inconsequential from strictly a scientific point of view. That particular post was thought provoking indeed, from a strictly clinical point of view in my opinion.

Probably the most heated debate on the subject can be found at Bonsai Talk The thread was started as on the previously mentioned site by the same hobbyist whom had recently returned from a lecture given by Mr Hill. This hobbyist only recently commenced his journey into our beloved art. This particular thread contains a good explanation on CECs, the interlocutor, “Forest Reef”. Of note, “Forrest Reef” is a student of Mr Warren Hill. Nonetheless, her discussion is pretty candid and contains several links to the topic in question. I have added the links to these articles at the end synopsis for your interest and viewing pleasure.

Experiment preparation
As previously mention I purchased 3 cotoneasters for this experiment. I chose 3 relatively similar trees with regards to health and size, keeping in mind that albeit an experiment, I wanted to be able to continue developing and enjoying the trees in the future. I did pay attention to the nebari and trunk development of the purchased subjects. Because of the short growing season in Nova Scotia, I purchased 3 pond baskets for growing containers. My rationale was to provide my trees with the most advantages I possibly could with limited growing resources. The free flow of oxygen and fast drainage of pond baskets, would lead to phenomenal root production and eventually top growth.

The Subjects
From top to bottom: “My soil”, Turface and Grit. Albeit still in their nursery containers, for the purpose of this article, pictures of the subjects (unless stated otherwise) will always take place in this order.


My soil


Turface


Grit

… after washing the roots.


My soil


Turface


Grit

The entire “old soil” was removed from the root ball using a garden hose. The roots were healthy and had many fine feeders. The taproot was removed from all 3 subjects and all received a minor root trim. In doing so I tried to keep the root ball roughly the same size for all three trees.

… ready for planting


My soil


Turface


Grit

The trees were planted in pond baskets in the following formulation from top to bottom: My 30/70 mix composed of 30% bark, 35% turface and 35% grit by (volume); 100% turface; and 100% grit.

… after original styling


My soil


Turface


Grit

Once the trees were transplanted, it became necessary to wire the trees to the baskets. The later was accomplished using loose guide wires vice securing the root ball to the baskets. Each tree received its initial trim. I tried to keep the trimming as equal as I possibly could given the state of branching and foliage. Once complete, each tree was watered thoroughly, allowed to soak for 15 minutes, watered again, again allowed to soak for 15 minutes and given an initial feeding of 10-52-10 “transplant fertilizer” at half strength to assist in alleviating transplant shock. All trees were placed in partial sun for 1 week. When signs of growth appeared they were in turn placed in full sun. Their watering requirements varied in the beginning, especially the one with the 30% organic mix. It received water every two to three days depending on the temperature, whilst the remaining two where watered once a day and twice a day respectively, on really hot days, the “grit tree” was watered 3 times a day.

Transplanting took place on the 5th of May. On the 19th of May they received another dose of 10-52-10 this time at full strength. I have been doing this with all my trees and have enjoyed great success since beginning the practice.

Beginning with the first week in June, they were placed on my Feeding Program for flowering/fruiting trees. The following table depicts their feeding regimen:



Progression
The trees are receiving weekly maintenance pruning e.g. allowed to grow 6 to 8 leaves and trimming back to just two. The tree growing in “my soil” receives a monthly flush, my rationale for the latter is that the organic components of the mix will “hold on” to the feed relatively speaking, compared to the other two. Although extremely early in the experiment as of the 12th of June, the tree that has demonstrated the most growth has been the one in the organic mixed followed by the tree in 100% grit. I will be following the progression carefully to see what might have led to this spurt if anything.

A year later…
Today, a year and a week later I decided to see what transpired over the past year. The tree that prospered the most was the tree planted in my soil recipe, followed by the tree in straight Turface, whilst the “pure grit” tree picked up the rear.

When I removed the trees from their individual baskets, the soil fell away from the root ball of the “grit tree” whilst a good portion of soil remained in the other two and had to be washed away. The roots were able to attach themselves to the medium so to speak. Although the grit tree’s bottom development was not as prolific as the others, I don’t believe it to be a determining factor in this instance. My observations lead me to believe that pure grit makes for a lousy anchoring medium when compared to the other two. As proper anchoring is an important factor in root development, I cannot endorse the practice of using pure grit as a growing medium without adequate support. All the trees had a healthy root system with no sign of rot of any kind. The only difference noticed was the root mass of the trees.


My soil


Turface


Grit

Although the top growth is really apparent in these photos, the real growth occurred in the baskets.


My soil


Turface


Grit

...and


My soil


Turface


Grit

Conclusion
They say a picture is worth a thousand words, in this instance the proof is in the pudding. As previously mentioned all trees received the same treatment during last years growing season. They were fed at the same rate; the only differential treatment they received was individual watering, because of different evaporation rates and moisture retention. As previously mentioned, the tree growing in the organic medium received a monthly flush, the latter was performed to level the playing field so to speak as the CEC of the organic mix was/is greater than the CEC of the inorganic mediums.

What can be drawn from this experiment? I believe a year is insufficient time to really evaluate the retention of unwanted salts in the mediums, as Warren would claim. I further believe that individual climates play a large role in growing bonsai. Warren is from California where the sodium content in their water is prevalent and evaporation rates higher. I believe this is an important factor that was overlooked and is not mentioned in any of his debates. Although, Warren’s test results may be valid, I dare venture to say that I further believe the results would have been different if these test/experiments were conducted elsewhere in the country, in order to draw precise and valid conclusions. Warren’s claim that the growth in a medium with low CECs exceeds that of any other soil composition, in this particular case the evidence speaks for itself.

Although the tree potted in pure grit survived the season, it did not flourish perse. I believe the tree in this instance may well have been under nourished due to the low CEC of the grit when compared to the other two mediums, with the organic medium having the greatest CEC of them all. An interesting observation was the prolific bottom growth of the tree that was planted in straight Turface; it demonstrated similar bottom growth as the organic tree and was only slightly behind. The top growth although better than the grit tree was not as prolific as the organic one. This is amazing as the basis of this debate was that Turface or any other calcinated clay product was bad for your trees.

Will the health of trees planted in a calcinated clay environment decrease over time? Perhaps but, one cannot deny the growth compared to the “grit tree”. It is my opinion that the accumulation of unwanted salts is a moot point if the tree is properly fed and watered, with periodic flushing and re-potting. Another point to note; was Warren over feeding his trees? The latter would only exacerbate the accumulation of salts in his medium, considering the original high sodium content of their water.

The reason for my experiment was to satisfy my own curiosity with regards to growth rates when potted in differing mediums. As previously mentioned, it was too early to tell if the accumulation of unwanted salts would play a factor in the trees future. When comparing growth; we have to concede that a tree planted in a free draining, well oxygenated soil, suitable for ones climactic conditions, will indeed prosper. I further believe that the reason the tree planted in the organic medium benefited of the extra Nitrogen produced by the slow decomposition of organic matter. Although the decomposition may have been low, it is nonetheless a factor that should not be overlooked when compared with the Turface tree.

In my opinion it is indeed possible to mimic the growing conditions across growing mediums by altering the feed rates and fertilizer values used, the latter is impractical in my opinion. Testing soil for the presence of specific nutrients and minerals is best suited for laboratories than someone’s bonsai garden. I further believe the average enthusiast has better things to do in the daily maintenance of his trees vice analyzing soil composition and thus adjusting feed/component rates

In closing I believe the low or lack of CEC of pure grit compared to other mediums leads to under-developed and under-nourished trees. Furthermore, pure grit makes for a lousy anchoring medium. Although this experiment did not refute Warren’s findings, I believe the results of this little experiment to be of some value. Everyone is in search of the “magic” soil recipe. It has been said time and time again that a good recipe is one that works for you, under your growing conditions, in your region. Therefore, I believe that a good growing medium must be relatively cheap, components readily available and provide a free flowing, oxygenated environment for your trees to truly prosper. I believe that a well-balanced feeding schedule with periodic top flushing and adequate re-potting intervals will alleviate if not eliminate unwanted salt accumulation. I further believe that a container of the proper size for the trees growing characteristics, not to mention growing climate is of paramount importance vice the medium it is planted in, in order to maintain healthy prosperous trees.

Disclaimer
The aforementioned experiment was not conducted under scientific conditions, to do so as discussed, would take years. For the experiment of unwanted salt accumulation to be credible in my opinion; it would need to be carried out in varying parts of the country, where trees are potted up in exact mediums, watered using distilled water of known quality and specific ppm, fed the same amount and brand of fertilizer, and potted in suitable containers of the same size. The aforementioned discussion is merely my observation of growth rates in varying mediums.

Links
Soil in a container - Electrical conductivity
Warren's Site
Bonsai Talk
Bonsai Site

Would you like fries with that...

Updated 29 January 2010!

Fertilizing! Although numerous articles are written on the subject, I find myself with the urge of sharing my experiences and understanding on the subject with fellow enthusiasts. The material written on the subject seems sparse or vague, leaving the enthusiast with more unanswered questions than anything. A favourite saying in the bonsai community is to: “Fertilize weakly, weekly”. There is no doubt this practice will provide dividends, and it is safe to do so. On the other hand during the developmental stages, many will promote feeding aggressively, more importantly, feeding with the appropriate fertilizers at the appropriate time.

I guess the proponents in each camp have their reasons, but I believe perhaps some of these practices were created or established through misinformation and/or myths, or a combination of both. Many references contain a section on fertilizers, but few engage or recommend a feeding regimen. I believe the latter is probably due to geographical locations and product availability. I further believe these references air on the side of caution, which in itself is not a bad thing. With so much information out there on the net let alone in reference material, how do we separate the “chaff from the wheat”? I believe the biggest culprit for the obscurity of this subject may have surfaced during the exponential growth of growing medium components, whilst feeding regimens remained pretty much unchanged in the last decade or so. In the last decade, we have seen growing medium composition make leaps and bounds, going from almost totally organic towards totally inert material. What did not transpire during this growth, is a proportional understanding of a feeding regimen for our trees, or better yet a thorough understanding of how feed is important to the vitality of our prized possessions, under our “current” growing conditions.

A proper program of fertilization is important for the cultivation of all types of plants, but is of particular importance when growing bonsai. There are two reasons for this. First, bonsai are grown in containers. This means there is very little space available from which the roots can obtain nutrients. Secondly, the soil mixtures traditionally used for proper bonsai cultivation are made up primarily of drainage materials (sand, rock, haydite, turface, etc.) and do not contain large amounts of organic materials that would hold onto nutrients or decompose and release nutrients into the soil.

It is therefore important to place your bonsai on a regular feeding schedule during the growing season. The plants require nutrients when they begin to grow and push buds in the early spring, and will continue to require feeding throughout the summer and into the fall (although in the fall the type of nutrients you provide will change (see below)).(Randy Clark)

As some of you know I am partial to Persiano’s “Super-feeding Program” for developing pines and conifers. To some this program is labeled as “Super-feeding” whilst others will call this program just common sense. The key to this program and its subsequent maintenance program is an extremely fast draining soil. On the latter, most folks believe their soil to be adequately fast draining, but is it? A fast draining soil is a soil in which water drains out the bottom almost as fast as it is introduced at the surface. A good potting medium is one, which will readily shed unwanted water, but retain sufficient moisture until the tree is watered once again. Some do not easily achieve this delicate balance. I believe the chief component that hinders their progress is the use of too much organic matter in their mediums, or the belief that such a component is needed.

A tree that is properly fed on a regular schedule with all the macro and micro-nutrients does not need an organic component in its potting medium to survive. All the roots need is: oxygen, water and minerals (vitamins for humans), the latter is provided with feed. Although this conversation may seem to be leading or has the appearance of heading towards totally inert growing mediums, it is not the direction I wish to take. The direction I wish to take is the requirement of our trees to get the required nourishment from their growing mediums. Even trees grown in landscapes etc… in the ground, in the earth, may or may not receive sufficient nourishment from their surroundings to sustain health. Hey, fast food restaurants will sustain life but will also lead to ones demise, in short fashion. Having said that, an organic component uses nitrogen as it decomposes, which in turn may rob the tree of this nutrient and subsequently lead to other nutrient deficiencies as well. Although a somewhat necessary component, the extensive use of this component in retaining moisture in the composition vice using a suitable inert component, should be avoided. Collin Lewis wrote, “For added water retention it is best to avoid the temptation to add more organic matter, but to reduce the aggregate particle size of the grit or, replace some of this component with one of the proprietary granular soil conditioners on the market” ((calcinated clays or similar (Turface)).

It is far better to play with the inorganic components of potting mediums vice the organic one. Organics decompose over time, and thus will no longer retain their desired original properties in the soil’s composition. The decomposition of this component will lead to soil collapse over time and limit the free exchange of oxygen between the roots and its surroundings. To further exacerbate this dilemma, the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of organic components exceeds that of any inert moisture-retaining component used in our growing mediums. This large retention can lead to the accumulation of unwanted salts in our mediums, leading to the inability of the root system to take up water and nutrients. Plant cells feed by osmosis, when the accumulation of unwanted salts occurs in the container, the process is reversed. The roots can no longer take up water and nutrients; rather the cells loose their moisture and nutrients to the soil.

I believe the biggest myth that surrounds our chosen hobby is to feed at half strength. It is completely safe to feed your trees in accordance with the manufacturer's recommended dosage. Having said that, if the schedule calls for 10-10-10 and all you have available is 20-20-20, then you would indeed cut the recommended dosage in half. What you wouldn’t and shouldn’t do is to reduce 10-10-10 by half and feed twice as often than the recommended intervals. The other one is to use a balanced fertilizer, in general terms this practice is acceptable and safe to do so, until one has grasped an understanding of what the major components in fertilizers actually do, how and when playing with these ratios will benefit our trees.

I know it has been discussed before, but I believe I need to go over the basic ingredients of fertilizers in providing a better understanding of their use and the role each plays in bonsai culture. The understanding of the basic chemistry will allow us a better understanding of altering ratios of these key components as the growing season progresses right up until dormancy. The nutritive requirement of our trees varies with the seasons, and this is the key area I wish to discuss, understanding the basics will lay a platform for the reasons we may wish to alter these ratios.

Nitrogen (N)
Nitrogen is responsible for shoot development and foliage production, in short, for growth.
Too little nitrogen results in the plants failure to thrive and will have small possibly distorted leaves and a washed out insipid appearance. With no nitrogen at all, a large plant could die within the year. Too much nitrogen by contrast causes rapid growth, with large leaves and plump shoots that are full of water and consequently, are easy to snap.

Phosphorous (P)
Phosphorous is essential for the development and proper functioning of roots. It is commonly used in high concentrations for newly potted stock plants and commercial root crops. Phosphorous also encourages the fattening of woody trunks and branches. It helps establish appropriate conditions for the production of foliage and flower buds. It also enhances the resistance of plant stress and disease. Weak growth and a pale colour may be the result of an oversupply, or even a lack of phosphorous.

Potassium (K)
Potassium is the main ingredient in the production of fruit and flowers. Increasing potassium in the diet of bonsai apples and azaleas which fruit or flower poorly, will greatly improve their performance the next spring. Potassium also helps in hardening off late growth in preparation for winter. Insufficient potassium in non-flowering trees, results in winter die back. A cheap way to add potassium to the soil is to throw a few handfuls of hard wood ash onto the surface.

Now that we refreshed ourselves with the purpose of each component let’s look at the different seasons and how we can better apply each of these components to provide better dividends. In most parts fertilizing starts to late in the season. When reference material calls for resumption of feed in “early spring” this is meant to be March in the Northern Hemisphere. This original feed is like a cup of espresso after a long winter’s nap. It is meant as a quick “pick me upper”. The component ratio of this initial feed is very important.

This initial feed is normally of the following ratio 30-10-10. It is a quick nitrogen boost that is given once in the month of March for flowering & fruiting trees, evergreens, conifers and deciduous trees. It is not given to pines and I will explain later. Depending on the winter this can be carried out any time from mid month on. The exception to this rule is with pines. Pines have a very peculiar growth pattern and do not benefit from this high nitrogen boost. As a matter of fact it is strongly discouraged. With pines low nitrogen feed is recommended in spring whilst high phosphorous feed is recommended in late summer/autumn. This will encourage small needles and prolific back budding. The high phosphor administered this late in the growing season is stored for the lack of a better word and hence, the tree does not require a cup of espresso upon awakening, it is already wired for sound when spring rolls along. To provide pines with high nitrogen feed in spring will reverse what we are trying to accomplish.

This high nitrogen boost is continued during the month of April right up until the first week of May for all trees with the exception of pines and flowering/fruiting trees.

Flowering/fruiting trees receive a balanced fertilizer during the aforementioned time frame, whilst a feed high in phosphorous will prove beneficial during the growing season. The feed schedule is applied right up until the tree is in bloom and discontinued while in bloom. The regimen is resumed once the tree has finished blooming.

For pines slow release "fertilizer cakes" are sufficient in providing the necessary nutrients for health and growth. In order to keep the needle length short and promote back budding, a feed high in phosphorous is chosen during the growth period. There is a direct correlation between top and bottom growth and that is why Michael feeds the roots aggressively during the growing season.

Some proponents will recommend the discontinuation of feed during the summer months (July-August), whilst others continue during this time frame. I am with the latter camp and feed right up until mid-November. Having said that our trees are preparing for dormancy around mid-August and this is where we as enthusiast must assist them into their winter slumber. We no longer feed as aggressively and the component ratios are switched to a low nitrogen high potassium feed, to harden off our trees for winter. Regardless of the species all feed is discontinued from mid-November until the end of February.

My products of choice are produced by Plant Products. They do not endorse me, nor have I any interest on promoting their use. The reason I use these products is because they are a Canadian firm, making their products readily available in Canada. Furthermore, when this article was originally written it was aimed at a Canadian audience.

10-52-10 Known as transplant fertilizer. There are many products sold under that name at exorbitant prices. If you were to check the ingredients in transplant fertilizer, you would come to the conclusion that the ratio is 10-50-10. Because I use this product extensively, I buy it by the tub. Every tree I acquire is bare rooted. I believe as others, the sooner you can get the tree established in the proper growing medium the better. I have yet to have a failure in doing so. What I do, that is perhaps out of the norm to increase my chances of success, is that I remove the soil with a water hose vice combing out the roots. I believe that combing out the roots on nursery-acquired stock is extremely stressful to the tree not to mention the damaged caused to the fine feeder roots in the process, ridding the soil from the roots with water is gentler approach in my opinion. The roots will receive very little in form of work carried out with the exception of removing the taproot should it still be present. The tree is fed with 10-52-10 at half strength, with a repeat dose at full strength 2 weeks later. After 4 weeks, the tree is placed on a normal feeding schedule. The innocuous feed is also carried out during re-potting in spring. In this case because the trees are in good growing medium the hose is not required. Shaking the tree and gently combing the roots is all that is required to rid the tree of old soil.

This particular fertilizer ratio is also part of Persiano’s Feeding regimen as seen in the charts below.

20-20-20 As I could not get my hands on 10-10-10 I use this product at half strength.

15-30-15 “Rose or tomato” fertilizer. This fertilizer is used to feed all my flowering and fruiting trees during the season as specified in the chart below.

15-15-30 “Tomato” fertilizer is the only one I could find as a low nitrogen high potassium fertilizer to use in the fall. This fertilizer is used at 1/3 of the recommended dosage or 5-5-10.

Maxicrop manufactures the following fertilizers. The reason I chose this firm is the availability of their products in order to mimic Persiano’s recommended elements and schedule. A point to note, their fish emulsion is odourless which makes it an ideal candidate for use inside the home. Furthermore, for those who manufacture their own fertilizer cakes, the use of this particular brand of fish emulsion in the composition will not drive you out of the house.

5-1-1 Fish emulsion

0.1-1.0-0.1 Liquefied seaweed and liquefied seaweed with iron. Replaces “Roots Liquid” and “Roots liquid with iron”

0-0-3 “Pro-Tekt” is manufactured by Dyna-Grow. It is a silicon-based solution that supplies high potassium to help plants build stronger cell walls. The stronger cell walls provide a protective barrier against piercing-sucking insects and invading fungi. Applying on a regular basis will minimise or eliminate the need to use pesticides and fungicides. Additional benefits include increased stem strength, and leaf positioning of plants, which improves photosynthesis; increased heat, drought and cold tolerance, plus longer lasting leaves and blooms. Used as a supplement to provide protection against fungal and insect infestations.

Slow release “fertilizer cake” recipe

3 cups “kelp meal”
2 cups “garden lime”
1 cup “bone meal”
1 cup “blood meal”
Full strength 20-30-20 diluted with water (manufacturers recommended dosage)
1 oz fish emulsion per lb of dry ingredients. In this case 4 oz

Mix dry ingredients well. Add liquid and further mix to the consistency of oatmeal. Flour can be used as a binding agent. Place on a flat tray, score to form squares, and set out in the sun to dry. Place in a well-sealed container for future use. The mixture can also be formed into balls if one so desires.

The charts below demonstrate the use and frequency of various fertilizers during the growing season. A point to note, plant product fertilizers do contain 2% chelated iron in their formulation.









I hope I was able to shed some light into this obscure subject. This is the feeding regimen for my outdoor trees and was compiled from various sources. This feeding regimen has been in use for 3 years now and I have personally seen the benefits of such a program. As stated earlier. To some this is super-feeding, to others just a good common sense feeding program.

I was informed that Persiano's feeding regimen included a key ingredient (Roots2), which was extremely hard to come by and, definitely not available in Canada. This key ingredient if omitted would pretty much nullify any super-feeding that took place. Perhaps nullify is too strong a word in this context but, a definite reduction in efficiency would transpire. Complete article

Disclaimer!!
Although it is perfectly safe to dilute fertilizers, doubling the manufacturers recommended dosage should not be carried out. The latter can be compared to many cooking recipes where doubling does not achieve the same result and thus, should be avoided at all cost.

Bibliography:
The italicized print at the beginning of the article is an excerpt from Randy Clarks article at Knowledge of Bonsai.

Bonsai a care Manual: Colin Lewis

On parenting and bonsai

In the past, several discussions have led me to serious reflection. As enthusiasts what are we missing, or need to acquire in order to really prosper in this fascinating hobby both horticulturally and artistically? The answer is not a simple one, but one that nonetheless can and should be reflected upon.

A question that is better answered by each and every one of us is: What has drawn us to this fascinating, sometime challenging and rewarding hobby? We each have our reasons and beliefs why we practice the art of “Bonsai”. It has been stated many times that “the journey” is a long one, what draws us to it, better yet what inspires us to continue along its torturous, frustrating and often challenging path? Unlike acquiring a degree of some sort, a bonsai education takes a lifetime; the degree is never truly finished nor acquired. The reverend “masters” will openly admit, “There is much to learn, I have refined my skills, but mastered none”.

Raising a bonsai from a cutting or a seed is not unlike raising a child, from the moment of conception we are fascinated with “new life”. The conception part is relatively easy and painless; the developmental stages on the other hand are plagued with uncertainties, frustrations and rewards. As the first newborn arrives home, the uncertainties set in. How do we raise the infant, it’s our first? How do I know what it needs, when it needs it, and what upsets the balance? We trudge through it and low and behold we attend their graduation. In that time frame we have not only educated and nurtured the infant into a functioning adult but have acquired an education ourselves in the process. Raising a child teaches us much; the growing seedling is no different.

We armed ourselves with literature, surrounded ourselves with family, friends and more experienced professionals to aid us on our journey, in seeing this child rise to fruition. Everyone has a different opinion and difficult advice. How do we apply these principles to our chosen craft? The similarities are so alike that it is nearly impossible to distinguished between the two.

Bringing the child home
We take our infant home from the nursery only to find out that the formula the neo-natal unit had the child on is not available or is no longer suitable as he/she has developed an allergic reaction to it. So we quest the market for a suitable substitute to meet its needs and feeding requirements. Finding the right baby formula is not unlike finding the proper soil components so our “younguns” can grow to maturity. Like a child a tree requires moisture and oxygen to live; the latter is provided by a free draining soil along while employing proper watering techniques.

A child will tell us when it needs its bottle; a tree on the other hand will often display its malcontent in a more subtle fashion. When parched a tree's leaves will often droop, indicating not unlike a crying child it requires to be fed, or in this particular case watered. When a tree loses its leaves out of sequence, or they turn yellow, once again it is not unlike a child who is crying because of a bout of colic or having a soiled diaper, it is merely the trees reaction to its living conditions. Feeding a child too much, results in a bellyache, whilst our trees may not get a bellyache, they will demonstrate their discomfort by throwing their leaves. It is their way of telling us, they require immediate attention, as our current course of action is simply not acceptable. Should we persist unknowingly or otherwise with the current course of action, in an act of self-preservation, the tree simply turns itself off. In some cases, many will seed and bloom prior to their demise as a selfless act of preservation in the hope of propagating the species. That’s how “Mother Nature” intended things to be, when human intervention is not a factor in the equation.

Contrary to popular belief a tree is not on intravenous, it only takes up the moisture lost through perspiration, and therefore watering excessively will soon lead to its demise. A child that is fed excessively intravenously will also succumb, drowning in its own fluids. The tree with sodden roots will react similar to a child that requires its bottom to be changed. Imagine how miserable you would feel having wet tootsies for days on end. Wouldn’t you throw a conniption as well? A common affliction of WW I veterans was trench foot disease. The fungus was a direct result of, hours spent for days on end in water-laden trenches. The comparable affliction of our beloved trees would be root rot.

The dirty diaper
A diaper not unlike a bonsai pot, that is full or crap will lead to numerous afflictions. Albeit, the child will not succumb to a “crappy” diaper, it sure can make ones life miserable until dealt with. A tree, not unlike a child, enjoys the luxury and warmth a clean diaper provides, or in the case of the former, free draining soil, free of crap. As you wouldn’t think of covering baby’s bottom with heavy cotton, the same consideration should be given on soil components selected. How is the latter accomplished? Component size is of great importance when mixing our substrate. Let’s take a look at what the substrate does for our trees. First and foremost it anchors a tree to the pot, until such time as the roots have colonized the pot and have attached themselves to the sides and bottom of the pot. Until this colonization transpires, anchoring the tree to the pot with wire is the method most widely used. Secondly, it must provide an avenue for retaining moisture in order to replenish fluid loss during the day. Thirdly, it must provide a medium for the tree to find its nourishment on demand and, last but not least must provide the free exchange of oxygen for the lungs, uh, I mean roots.

The first component is any form of impermeable aggregate available in your area. Natural aquarium gravel could be a source, as well as flushed “crusher dust” or coarse sand for that matter. The component of choice is crushed granite, which is sold in feed stores as “chicken grit”. One must be careful when using this product, as it is often found that “crushed oyster shells” are also sold as chicken grit. Whilst the former is a great aggregate, the latter is a pour choice due to its high sodium content. The component size should be anywhere from 1/8” – 3/16”. This size has been found suitable for the majority of trees grown as bonsai, although 1/16” components would be more suitable for “mame” bonsai.

The second component provides the moisture retention capacity of the soil. This component is usually any form of permeable material like lava rock, haydite, calcinated clays etc… although “perlite” may possess attributes desirable in bonsai substrate, its greatest disadvantages is it is unsightly and floats to the surface, in doing so, will often lead to soil collapse For these reasons perlite is seldom found as a component of any decent substrate. Although some folks will/may add an organic component to the substrate, this is the main “feeding” component of bonsai substrate. It has the capacity to store up to 50 times its weight with water and nutrients. Therefore, it has the ability to both water and feed the tree on demand, whilst maintaining the preferable moisture content of the substrate.

The third component found in our substrate is any type of organic component of the aforementioned sizes that although decomposes readily, will not cause soil collapse during the decomposition process until subsequent repotting. Fir bark has been found suitable for this means. Another component widely used, and possessing similar properties is known as “ pine soil conditioner”. Although, this component is readily available at most garden centers in the US, I have failed to source an outlet here in Canada. Of late, I have started using Sequoia bark (available from the Orchid Society in my area) it size ranges from 1/4 - 3/8”. A quick trip in the blender renders my preferred component size, the same can be said of Schultz “Orchid Mix” that is readily available throughout Canada. Although the particles are much larger than preferred, once again a quick trip in the blender will solve this inconvenience. Another added benefit of using “Orchid mix” is the addition of horticultural charcoal in the mix, which has proven over the years to be extremely beneficial to plants and trees.

The most important factor when developing and mixing bonsai substrate is component size. We use particulate matter of a certain size to provide a free flowing area for both water to drain and oxygenate the roots in the process. Components of varying sizes would lead to closing of the air spaces we have so diligently provided our trees with during the triple sifting process required to generate a proper bonsai substrate.

Peat moss or peat as it is often referred to, has absolutely no place in bonsai substrate and should never be used. Learned enthusiasts have long drawn the conclusion about its use as unfavorable. Why you might ask? It retains too much moisture! The second reason is its relative inability to regain said moisture once dry. What one will often see when watering the tree is, that although the tree has been thoroughly watered, the soil is still dry. The water has found the pass of least resistance and exited the pot. If one were to sift just below the surface one would be amazed indeed to find dry soil. Probably the chief disadvantage of using peat is the compaction of the air spaces between the components, the latter leads to inadequate oxygen exchange in the substrate.

The ill-fitting diaper
We have discussed formula; lets discuss the consequences of an ill-fitting diaper and how it relates to our chosen hobby. We all know the results of an ill fitting diaper, it either fails to adequately share the load or if too large, fail to adequately contain the load. How does a diaper compare to a bonsai container? Quite simple! The bonsai container, not unlike a diaper has a specific function in the tree’s life. A properly fitted diaper not unlike a properly sized container, which drains well, is warm and comfy.

Unlike a diaper, (although the new ones are now designed for little boys or girls due to their physical differences) a bonsai container is at times species specific. The watering requirement or uptake of individual trees will often play an important role when choosing a suitable container. The sole purpose of a container (with the exception of anchoring the tree and display purposes) is to act as “a dinner table”. The tree should be able to eat what is placed on its plate in one sitting, and only replace the moisture loss during the course of the day, until the next watering takes place. Hence, the warm comfy diaper! The latter is easier said than done, so let’s reflect on the tangibles here. In the beginning, more often than not the root mass dictates the size of the container. This is where the similarities end. Whilst as a baby grows the need to increase to a bigger size in maintaining its comfort becomes paramount, in bonsai culture we do the opposite. In subsequent years, this mass is reduced and eventually a container aesthetically proportioned is chosen. In doing so, there is always a caveat. The chosen container must be able to assist in sustaining life. Not only must it be of adequate size to meet the trees demands, it must also be suitable in meeting the trees living conditions and climate. An ideal container is one that will drain freely and allow the substrate to contain only enough moisture until the next watering, while providing sufficient surface area to keep the roots cool during heat waves at the height of the summer. Should the container fail to provide these conditions the results is either a sodden substrate or a parched one. Albeit, in the short term this may not be hazardous to the tree’s health, the tree will not develop its full potential, will put on a sickly appearance and in the long run could invariably lead to its demise.

So how does one choose an appropriate sized container? The size as mentioned is dictated by the root mass, for the most part. The daily intake of the species iaw the species guide permits us to formulate an educated guess, while keeping in mind the moisture retentiveness of the substrate. Contrary to popular belief, a shallow pot will retain more water than a deep pot, regardless of the surface area due to the perched water table. I will not discuss this phenomenon here as a link can be found in the “Learning to walk…” article, which discusses it at great length. Suffice to say that keeping this known phenomenon in the back of our minds will play dividends in the long run. Regardless of the size of the container, the perched water table exists at a height pre-determined by the resistance of the substrate composition, adding a so called “drainage layer” serves no useful purpose with the exception of adding false peace of mind to the enthusiast, as the perched water table will form above said drainage layer. Manipulation of substrate components on the other hand plays an important role alongside container size and tree uptake.

A proper container is one of suitable size for the tree’s requirements, is aesthetically pleasing, complements the tree vice causing a distraction and last but not least, provides enough space for bottom growth until subsequent repotting, not unlike buying slightly oversize clothing for a growing toddler.

Vitamin supplement
With daily feedings both our child and trees are prospering. As they grow their needs change, therefore we must modify their daily intake from straight formula to something more sustaining. With a substrate containing an organic component, the mere decomposition of this component will provide the tree with sufficient nutrients to sustain life, but in many cases insufficient to really prosper. This is further exacerbated in totally inorganic substrates. A direct relationship can be extrapolated between the necessity of daily vitamin intake of humans, found in particular foods or an appropriate vitamin supplement. Our trees on the other hand receive their nutrients as discussed via the decomposition of organic matter. Although the decomposition provides adequate nourishment, our trees require certain micro nutrients to thrive. Understanding the nutritional deficiencies of our trees is paramount to healthy growth. A multi vitamin containing the appropriate minerals can be found in balanced fertilizer, one that has an even distribution of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. Nitrogen is responsible for promoting strong stems and healthy dark leaves. A lack of Nitrogen will result in thin, weak shoots and small, yellow leaves which rapidly fall. On the other hand too much Nitrogen produces sappy stems, large leaves both of which are vulnerable to fungal attack. Whilst Nitrogen is the main components for sustaining life in plants, phosphorus is necessary for strong, healthy roots and for prolific fruit production. A deficiency reduces root growth causing general poor vigour and discoloured foliage. The last component is potassium which is necessary in balancing the effects of Nitrogen, is essential to flower production as well as promoting resistance to fungal disease and generally hardening off the tree against harsh environmental and climatic conditions.

Not unlike a child who later develops and affliction and requires special care, certain tree species have specific needs when it comes to their growing environment. The alkalinity of the soil plays an important role and is one that is often overlooked. Having said that, no harm will come to the tree if the PH level of the soil is not exactly correct. The easiest method in lowering the alkalinity for trees that require a slightly more acidic soil is the occasional feeding of “Miracid”. I have had difficulty on acquiring such a product in my locality; however, any good “coniferous fertilizer” containing an NPK of 30-10-10 will do nicely when applied a fortnight or even every second fortnight at half strength. This is the simplest and safest method to lower the soils PH.

An anemic child who has developed an iron deficiency is given iron supplements. In bonsai culture the affliction is Chlorosis, the latter is caused by the lack of iron in the soil. Whilst iron is insoluble the natural action of the soil transforms this necessary mineral making it available to the tree. Although iron is not a part of the chlorophyll it must be present for the compound to form. In alkaline or neutral soils iron can be “locked up” thus appearing, as it is deficient. This often happens when excessive amounts of lime, phosphates or heavy metals are present in the soil, poor drainage or where over watering is practiced.

Growing trees and siblings
We seem to be getting along well and have a little experience under our belts, so we decide to bring a second one home. Are things the same? Well maybe, but probably not. Ask any parent – they will tell you each one is different and the same applies to bonsai. Although of the same species, some trees not unlike siblings will react differently to practiced methods. Once again not unlike siblings each one will respond differently and has specific needs. These needs must be met and maintained in order for the child or bonsai to develop its full potential. I have two Fukien Teas, Fred and Ginger, they are indeed brother and sister, and for the love of me I have yet figured them out. They have been in my possession for 3 years now. Their behaviour is mind boggling to say the least. While one is flourishing, the other throws a tantrum and vice versa. I have yet for the love of me been able to have them fully satisfied at the same time. This constant battle in meeting their demands is not unlike parenting children. Just when you think the battle is won, they throw a curve ball at you.

Not unlike brothers, or brothers and sisters, different cultures have different needs and demands. The learned enthusiast has gained the necessary experience to deal with these individualities. And although one can treat its collection as a whole, one must remain cognizant of their varying needs and cater to those needs on an individual basis. Regardless of the experienced you have gained, not unlike parenting; don’t pat yourself on the back yet. You have raised six children into well-adjusted adults, and then the seventh child comes along and throws everything you have learnt out the window. None of the previously proven methods and rules seems to work; this one has turned your world upside down. Isn’t parenting and raising bonsai fun!

A trip to the dentist
Mother nature has taught us to avoid unpleasantness or things that make us downright miserable. So please explain why one would take a tree home, break its arm, set it, place it in a cast, not to mention giving it a root canal along the way and then expect it to be happy and prosper. Wouldn’t it be better if the first trip to the dentist were a pleasant one, vice a root canal? I am pretty sure that a child is more apt to return to the dentist if the past experience was a pleasant one. A tree not unlike the human body needs time to recuperate from surgery. As with humans doing numerous surgical procedures all at once, without recuperation and mending time is indeed life threatening.

The first thing one should do when bringing a tree home from a nursery is change its diaper, wash its bottom, and place it in a warm comfy one. In bonsai talk this translates to: bare rooting the tree, placing it in bonsai substrate suitable for the species, fitting it with a proper container for its current stage of development and give it its first meal (a dose of 10-52-10 at half strength followed by a dose at full strength 2 weeks later). Which is more apt to provide positive results? If the latter cannot be accomplished it is better to leave the tree in its current soil and pot until such time as you can properly take care of it.

Acquiring an education
Bonsai not unlike a toddler takes time to develop and master the lessons learnt. The parent through thoughtful nurturing and caring accomplishes the latter. Like a child a bonsai needs time to nurture and develop. This developmental phase is either carried out in the ground or a grow box of suitable proportions. It is not conducted in a bonsai pot. During this developmental phase the tree is pretty much left on its own to develop and flourish, only necessary “shape pruning” is carried out, not unlike correcting faults or unwanted behaviour in a child. As the toddler develops it is soon time to attend kindergarten and for a bonsai, receives its first training pot. This is when and where the formal education and training will take place. In the case of the tree when the trunk has reached the desired proportions. Over the next couple of years the tree is pruned, shaped and trained. Like a child, it is receiving its formal education.

While acquiring an education, for the lessons to be successful and comprehended, the teacher must teach at a level easily understood by the child. It is further understood that one will not progress to the next phase until previous lessons have been understood and mastered. The bonsai enthusiast also needs to apply these principles while nurturing its tree. Too much all at once only leads to confusion. Not unlike the child the tree was not capable of taking in the information, as it was incapable of following the path of instruction provided by the enthusiast. This is also comparable to receiving multiple surgeries all at once. The body, as the tree needs time to recuperate between surgical intrusions. In bonsai talk this translates to “growing seasons”. Now finally one may be able to comprehend why it takes so long to develop a bonsai, regardless if it was grown from seed or acquired from a nursery. The only difference between the two is time.

Adoption
Acquiring Yamadori or nursery stock is comparable to adopting a child, someone else has molded it and although it may have been provided with a sound up bringing, it may possess faults that require correction, or have to repeat a grade in order to correct training flaws. The advantage nursery stock or Yamadori have over seedlings and cuttings, is that the enthusiast will generally acquire these trees with the developmental phases already carried out (girth). This phase for the purpose of this discussion is known as primary school. Once a tree has matured to the level prescribed herein it is now ready to commence high school. In this case a bonsai pot.